I have to say, although you speak quickly, you’re so informative and straight to the point. You cover so many angles in one video. I truly appreciate your videos.
i guess im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account? I stupidly lost the password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
you are spot on very good speaker and right to the point and knowledgeable. You over come the biggest problem of 99.9% U Tubers, you talk in a manner that can keep a persons attention. Keep it up Kid, good advice.
Very good rundown of arrow weights. I would agree that your favorite hunting with the heavier weight AND the higher FOC is the best overall build. I recently listened to an interview with Dr Ashby and he mentions that he has learned that the higher FOC plays a more important role than just having an overall heavy arrow. He talked about the efficiencies of the arrow really increases once you start getting that 18% or higher FOC. ... still, I like your videos!
Great content and great delivery of information. I really enjoy the way you break down what can be confusing information to people when they are first starting out. Keep it up, man!
Found your videos about a month ago, great stuff, I like the way you break everything down and make it seem easy. You helped me a lot with bare shaft tuning etc.. I just finished testing and building new arrows for this year. I am using Victory VForce 300 cut to 28", shooting at 65lbs. I am running a 100gr brass insert with a 150r Magnus Stinger Buzzcut. Total weight is 554 gr with a 19% FOC. So far I'm loving the way they shoot.
Yup! That's why I personally stick to stock components from Victory. 22grain inserts with a 125grain point basically puts 150 up front without even trying. The heaviest out of the box setup I've found from any manufacturer.
When i was a kid & made bows & arrows from sticks in the woods - I would use a particular scrub brush stick that naturally grew straight & even then i learned to use the fatter end as the tip worked the best for flight..... All i used for a nock was to cut a V in the opposite end & use some old fishing string.. The knotted end acted as feathers / vanes
I'm going heavy for sure. Been shooting el cheapo carbon express arrows from the clearance bin at walmart for years because that's all I could afford. Looks like maybe going back to the old aluminum is my best option for an inexpensive heavy arrow.
Great information for a variety of arrows and price points! I’m just starting my testing for my heavy arrow/high foc build and I will be purchasing my best flying (spine) arrows soon. Thanks for the information!
Ha you nailed the timing. I just got strings replaced and decided to up the overall weight of my hunting setup while I was at it. Looking for more pass throughs this fall. You run almost the exact arrow as me, 300 GT hunter xt. Looking to zip right on through some deer this fall!!
I needed one that could run a lens so it hits right in the money! By the way I'm a 31" draw and know the pain when it comes to arrow weight and FOC haha
ok ... I have a short 23.5 inch draw length. (i deformed) I have 400 spine arrows cut to 15 inches, 100 grain inserts, and 125 grain field points. total arrow weight is 460 to 480 grains. Compound bow is maxed out at 63.5 pounds draw weight. I can get 1.5 to 2 inch groups at 20 yards. What am I doing wrong? I recently upgraded to a 70 pound draw compound bow. I want to shoot 640 to 700, maybe 750 grain 25 inch arrows. What do you suggest? What spine do I need? Will 300 or 350 grain inserts with 150 grain (or heavier, if I can find some) broadheads be a waste of funds and time? Would 300 or 350 grain inserts with 300 grain field points be suitable for putting holes in paper and 3D targets? (again, arrow shaft length at 25 inches.) Yes. The FOC would likely be nearer 20 plus than 10 or 15.
My arrow with no tip or shafts is 280 grains, and adapter about 40, spine is 300. To safety shoot from recurve bow 60lbs do i have to add at least 250 grains in front? When whole arrow will be 400 or less grains, bow will break?
Really good stuff. I did a lot of research on Dr. Ed Ashby who did a LOT of research on heavy game hunting. For heavy bone he advocated for a MINIMUM of 650g arrow weight and 19% FOC. I look for a mimumum of 8g per lb and 16% or better FOC deer. I hope to do a hog hunt next year, I'm going with Dr. Ashbys specs, they are tough animals.
Awesome video. I’ve been trying to figure out a setup to shoot a Magus 125gr Broadhead, but I’m trying to stay in between 480 and 525 grain total arrow wait, because I shot 65 pounds and I’m a 28.5 inch draw weight. What do you think would be a correct arrow spine and inserts.
If you put together a 300 spine Victory VForce at 29.5" with stock components and a lighted nock, you'll be right around 470 grains witj a lighted nock. Bump from 125 to 150 (both Stinger and hopefully a 150 Hornet this Summer...) And you'll be in 495/500 with just stock inserts.
Why do you prefer the hunter over the velocity? Structural integrity? I'm hunting with gold tip velocity pro to get a touch more foc but I do seem to break them a bit faster than the hunters
Any type of arrow designed for speed I immediately shy away from for a hunting shaft. Regardless of manufacturer. They're just not thick enough for me when it comes to the rigors of hunting. Now, plenty of deer have been killed by plenty of Velocity, LightSpeed, VTAC, etc. style arrows, don't get me wrong. They're just not what I'm looking for.
Appreciate the feedback I was thinking about trying it I've been having good luck though I dropped down from 650 cuz I won't be hunting elk until next year when we move back to Arizona right now I'm in California just hunting pigs and deer just picked up a new compound and built a 580 grain going to run that till I get back to Arizona
Great job on all your videos. I have been using Easton Flatline arrows, but am hoping to upgrade to heavier gold tip Hunter XT arrows like you recommended. Which inserts do you use and recommend for most of us? I am hoping to buy a few (4) arrows and inserts and test and tune my arrows, by adjusting weight of my broadhead + insert combo and maybe selecting between a couple of spine weights (before I purchase most of my arrows). I am thinking of using Gold Tip instead of Sirius arrows mainly due to cost. I am planning to use 125 grain cutthroat broadheads.
I like to build "bell curve" arrows that are easier to tune. So stock components with 100-150grain broadheads. They tune very well, and with that appropriate tuning and a fixed blade broadhead, one can tackle any big game species on this planet.
I am currently at 480 grains with 150 up front. Thinking of going much heavier with 250-350 up front. 30" arrow 300 spine Hunter xt gold tip. Not sure when to stop lol
I Remember the early 90’s my dad bow going off and sounding like a 30-06 going off at 100 yards away. Then that loud ting sound of that aluminum I Miss that!
I have an old Easton game getter and love it even though it's the only one I have.... Kinda want to get a half dozen of aluminum arrows.... I started hunting after carbon so I never got to enjoy them.
Love the vids just wanted to get your opinion on aluminum arrows. The ones I shoot are 2219 and it was like 550 with. 100 grain head but my foc is like 7% is that still a good option for deer hunting.
I've shot the XX75 Camo Hunters almost exclusively for years, can't beat the cost and durability. I've even found some online, or at yard sales for next to nothing, clean them up, refletch and maybe touch up any slight bends and good to go. Good video, sometimes it seems the deeper I look into spines, gpi, foc, it muddies the waters even more.
So I'm new to archery and kind of a gorilla, I shoot 70lbs out of my ebay parker Hunter Mag at 32" draw, with a d loop and trigger release. I know enough to know I don't know much. I'm running easton axis at 340 spine because I trusted the guy at the pro shop and they were on sale. Am I screwed or does this sound like a setup I can get away with for a while if I stick to 100 grain heads? For reference my bow Ibo at 307fps
just got a deal on some new old stock easton xx78 super slams, a dozen 2117s for my 48 pound recurve (I have a draw length a little over 32 inches) and a dozen 2315s for my 65 pound recurve. I should be good for quite a while considering I get to shoot maybe one deer a year. The old school aluminum shafts make it nice and easy to get over 550 grains.
What's your input on a 580 grain arrow 29.75 draw at 66 pounds...I have a single pin sight an hoping to still get 80 yards out of my sight do you think this is possible
New archer question. Can you speak to outserts. When do you use them? Do they take the place of inserts? Any advantage over just using an insert? Thanks.
Great question! So some arrows require an outsert due to their internal size being too small for standard threaded points. So they're the insert version for those super micro shafts (.166 ID). They're not used on standard or oversized shafts as a standard threaded point can fit inside. Now footers, which are often used in conjunction with outserts to give rigidity and strength to the outsert, are not exclusive to micro shafts and can be used on standard arrows to add strength and FOC to a standard inserted arrow.
I'm new, too, and bought Victory RIP Elite 350s as my first arrows. They came with outserts in the box, too. They do take the place of inserts because the common inserts are too big in diameter. I've since popped those out of a couple of arrows and dropped in some Elite inserts to get the heavier, high FOC shafts I want to use. The inserts have a solid stainless shaft to increase the weight, and include a stainless sleeve that goes over the insert once it is installed. The net effect is to add lots more weight to the front end, even before you attach a broadhead. So, if you want to run a heavier arrow, but your favorite broadhead is only available in lighter weights, a different insert, outsert, or footer can give the you extra weight. Good luck! I'd love to hear what you choose. I'm sure I'll end up trying lots of different setups before I find something that's effective but forgiving enough for a newbie like me.
I'm running the Sirius Vulcans, 30" Carbon to Carbon, 100 grn inserts, 150 points. gets me to 600 grains exactly. things are tough, fly beautifully, and smack like a train.
I'm actually getting ready to cut a set of GT xt 300's with 100gr brass this weekend :) I'm debating what length I should cut them. I'm thinking about switching to Magnus heads next season and possibly playing around with some other large broadheads and worry about riser clearance. Your experience with both leads me to 2 questions for you. Do you cut your arrows to clear your riser when using fixed blades? (meaning long enough that the broadhead never reaches the riser at full draw). And also, what type of glue do you prefer for your inserts? I've had impressive luck with the durability of a brass insert super glued, (gorilla blue cap) into carbon but I pondered if I used hot glue, I would be able to simply heat and index the broadheads to clear the riser. I'm a firm believer that super glue has saved several arrows from splintering by stopping inserts from getting crammed into the shaft but I'm curious what you use. Thanks in advance!
Hot melt for me hands down. Super easy to change things in and out. As for the arrow length I always cut my hunting arrows an inch longer than my draw, which puts it past the shelf of the riser and more importantly in front of my bow hand.
Awesome. Thanks for the quick reply. I was leaning toward a longer cut and that's the second opinion I needed to get cutting. Do you ever have issues with point /inserts pulling out in the target using hot melt?
@@jm4nier20 Only when I haven't used an appropriate amount of glue, just like a regular super glue will do if you use too little. But other than that, I've had a 100% adhesion rate in aluminum and carbon shafts.
You could theoretically get away with more point weight if you use a stiffer spine. If you use a stiffer spine, you not only can use more point weight, but the overall GPI increases. This works for some people but it doesn't work for others, the only way to find out if you like going this route is to try it. (Preferably not on an animal just in case if you have something go wrong).
I flip flop back and forth. I really like the Stinger Buzzcuts. But for the Hornets I like the straight edge. Don't ask me why. Have had tremendous success and blood trails with both. Last 4 deer I harvested fell in sight. 2 with a straight Hornet and 2 with the Buzzcut.
Yes second number on aluminum arrows is wall thickness, in your example of 2315 wall is .015" thick. Second part of your statement is incorrect, ID of 2315 is not 15/64" it's 11/32" (22/64"). If ID was 15/64" that shaft would be around 6 times heavier and it could be used as high pressure tubing 😉
I’ve found if you want more FOC Black Eagle has many lighter GPI options in stiff spines for a good price. 300 spine Rampage .204 is only 8.8 GPI and the standard diameter Carnivore is even lighter. You can then add in a 100 gr stainless Ethics insert for $30 a dozen.
I personally like to have a good balance for my bow and crossbow. I find it gives the best for speed and penetration my crossbow bolts i like to be around 400-500 grains total weight my bow i like to have 300-400 grains total weight.
I shoot the Victory Decimator 350 arrows 8.7gpi, 28.5" with 100gr tips, thru my 70# Bowtech RPM 360 & My arrows blow thru true Northern Wisconsin deer (Not smaller bodied southern midget deer) as if i Missed !!!! The deer dont even know what happened....... The dead deer didnt care about arrow weight & I dont even know what my current arrows weigh in at - I just shoot them because they work good... I had the VAPs - too much $ wasted when you lose them trying to shoot out to 80 yards for the 1st time... haha
Outside of aluminum, which is naturally heavy, "heavy, high foc" carbon arrows are not so easily mass produced from a selling perspective. The idiosyncrasies of spine, point weight, insert build, etc. are just too much for shops to stock and control and nightmare logistically to have the time to tune everyone on a day to day basis. If heavy arrows were truly a magic bullet for the hunting industry, they would've been capitalized on decades ago and we wouldn't even have to have videos on the topic.
@@averagejackarchery That makes me think I'll just stick with what I'm practicing with to hunt with, my range is only out to 30 yards, likely less actually hunting & the broadheads I bought shoot like my field points.
All u have to do is cut it shorter. That'll stifffen it up to 300-340. Take a 400 and cut it to 25 or 26" and then u can put a heavier insert or broadheads on it.
Up until this year, I actually preferred a Velocity XT in 300 spine + brass insert combination; at a 26.25" finished length, I had a finished weight of ~ 455 grains with like 18% FOC. Unfortunately, my local shop stopped carrying Velocities. I may switch to Hunters and bump up my field points/broadheads to 125 grains.
I can beat the Camo hunters on price! I can get XX75 Tribute shafts for $3.17 a shaft! Now you talking $3.67 a shaft for cut or about $44.04 for a dozen cut shafts! This was on Lancaster's website though and local shops would be different depending on cost, what they have, and price for service...
Why don't you talk about the benefit of adding nylon rope in the shaft. It is almost free it doesn't affect the arrow stiffness and it adds weight to the shaft. I just tested on my arrows with the rope you get 37 mm more penetration in to the target this huge and it is free. The arrow flight is normal the only things is the FOC is moved a bit more towards the center of the arrow not as much nose heavy but no issues .I was skeptical but the test do not lie . Try for yourself and you can see how much money you can save and have a heavy arrow without braking the bank and with the correct spine.
I have to say, although you speak quickly, you’re so informative and straight to the point. You cover so many angles in one video. I truly appreciate your videos.
i guess im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly lost the password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Issac Milo instablaster ;)
you are spot on very good speaker and right to the point and knowledgeable. You over come the biggest problem of 99.9% U Tubers, you talk in a manner that can keep a persons attention. Keep it up Kid, good advice.
Thanks! When my day job is to teach English to middle schoolers... I'd better know how to keep people's attention. 🤣
Very good rundown of arrow weights. I would agree that your favorite hunting with the heavier weight AND the higher FOC is the best overall build. I recently listened to an interview with Dr Ashby and he mentions that he has learned that the higher FOC plays a more important role than just having an overall heavy arrow. He talked about the efficiencies of the arrow really increases once you start getting that 18% or higher FOC. ... still, I like your videos!
18% is getting very high. 12-15% is ideal.
Great content and great delivery of information. I really enjoy the way you break down what can be confusing information to people when they are first starting out. Keep it up, man!
Found your videos about a month ago, great stuff, I like the way you break everything down and make it seem easy. You helped me a lot with bare shaft tuning etc.. I just finished testing and building new arrows for this year. I am using Victory VForce 300 cut to 28", shooting at 65lbs. I am running a 100gr brass insert with a 150r Magnus Stinger Buzzcut. Total weight is 554 gr with a 19% FOC. So far I'm loving the way they shoot.
Most informative heavy arrow video I have seen... Thank you!!
Love your channel ! Keep the great content coming.
I like the idea of using heavier arrows, but I'm finding it a chore to get the components to build them!
Yup! That's why I personally stick to stock components from Victory. 22grain inserts with a 125grain point basically puts 150 up front without even trying. The heaviest out of the box setup I've found from any manufacturer.
When i was a kid & made bows & arrows from sticks in the woods - I would use a particular scrub brush stick that naturally grew straight & even then i learned to use the fatter end as the tip worked the best for flight..... All i used for a nock was to cut a V in the opposite end & use some old fishing string.. The knotted end acted as feathers / vanes
I'm going heavy for sure. Been shooting el cheapo carbon express arrows from the clearance bin at walmart for years because that's all I could afford. Looks like maybe going back to the old aluminum is my best option for an inexpensive heavy arrow.
Great information for a variety of arrows and price points! I’m just starting my testing for my heavy arrow/high foc build and I will be purchasing my best flying (spine) arrows soon. Thanks for the information!
Well communicated and very informative.
Ha you nailed the timing. I just got strings replaced and decided to up the overall weight of my hunting setup while I was at it. Looking for more pass throughs this fall. You run almost the exact arrow as me, 300 GT hunter xt. Looking to zip right on through some deer this fall!!
Such a great video! Learning soo much Thank you!
You couldn't be any better at explaining things haha thanks again mate. Awesome work
Haha! Thanks, brother!
Also I'm getting the CBE engage hybrid because of your review it's so much better than the others I don't know why they aren't as popular!
@@mitchimal I love mine! Legit 4 sights in 1. Couldn't be more impressed with the build quality and versatility.
I needed one that could run a lens so it hits right in the money! By the way I'm a 31" draw and know the pain when it comes to arrow weight and FOC haha
ok ... I have a short 23.5 inch draw length. (i deformed)
I have 400 spine arrows cut to 15 inches, 100 grain inserts, and 125 grain field points. total arrow weight is 460 to 480 grains.
Compound bow is maxed out at 63.5 pounds draw weight.
I can get 1.5 to 2 inch groups at 20 yards.
What am I doing wrong?
I recently upgraded to a 70 pound draw compound bow.
I want to shoot 640 to 700, maybe 750 grain 25 inch arrows.
What do you suggest?
What spine do I need?
Will 300 or 350 grain inserts with 150 grain (or heavier, if I can find some) broadheads be a waste of funds and time?
Would 300 or 350 grain inserts with 300 grain field points be suitable for putting holes in paper and 3D targets?
(again, arrow shaft length at 25 inches.)
Yes. The FOC would likely be nearer 20 plus than 10 or 15.
Great information!
My arrow with no tip or shafts is 280 grains, and adapter about 40, spine is 300. To safety shoot from recurve bow 60lbs do i have to add at least 250 grains in front? When whole arrow will be 400 or less grains, bow will break?
Really good stuff. I did a lot of research on Dr. Ed Ashby who did a LOT of research on heavy game hunting. For heavy bone he advocated for a MINIMUM of 650g arrow weight and 19% FOC. I look for a mimumum of 8g per lb and 16% or better FOC deer. I hope to do a hog hunt next year, I'm going with Dr. Ashbys specs, they are tough animals.
Great video man. Thanks
Hey mate love your vids can a use a gamegetter 340 out of a 70 pound compound bow
Awesome video. I’ve been trying to figure out a setup to shoot a Magus 125gr Broadhead, but I’m trying to stay in between 480 and 525 grain total arrow wait, because I shot 65 pounds and I’m a 28.5 inch draw weight. What do you think would be a correct arrow spine and inserts.
If you put together a 300 spine Victory VForce at 29.5" with stock components and a lighted nock, you'll be right around 470 grains witj a lighted nock. Bump from 125 to 150 (both Stinger and hopefully a 150 Hornet this Summer...) And you'll be in 495/500 with just stock inserts.
Awesome I already got some 125 black hornet I wanna try out just been trying to figure out how to set them up thanks for all the help.
Yes! You’re a Penn State Fan! 🏈
Why do you prefer the hunter over the velocity? Structural integrity? I'm hunting with gold tip velocity pro to get a touch more foc but I do seem to break them a bit faster than the hunters
Any type of arrow designed for speed I immediately shy away from for a hunting shaft. Regardless of manufacturer. They're just not thick enough for me when it comes to the rigors of hunting. Now, plenty of deer have been killed by plenty of Velocity, LightSpeed, VTAC, etc. style arrows, don't get me wrong. They're just not what I'm looking for.
@@averagejackarchery good point
Appreciate the feedback I was thinking about trying it I've been having good luck though I dropped down from 650 cuz I won't be hunting elk until next year when we move back to Arizona right now I'm in California just hunting pigs and deer just picked up a new compound and built a 580 grain going to run that till I get back to Arizona
This is a great video. Have you done one on heavy weight broadheads? If not would like see one! Thanks
Hey! 500+ grains. You are the Ranch Fairy what have you done with Average Jack
Good stuff!
well explaained
I have a 60 lb recurve that is weighed in at 63 lb my Arrow length is 32 in with a 500 spine. How is that going to affect my grouping of arrows.
If I have 300gr in front, 70lbs 29"(arrow), my draw length is 28". Is the GT hunter xt 300 spine good? Or should I get the 250 spine? Thanks!
Stick with no more than a 125 head and you'll be alright!
Great job on all your videos. I have been using Easton Flatline arrows, but am hoping to upgrade to heavier gold tip Hunter XT arrows like you recommended. Which inserts do you use and recommend for most of us? I am hoping to buy a few (4) arrows and inserts and test and tune my arrows, by adjusting weight of my broadhead + insert combo and maybe selecting between a couple of spine weights (before I purchase most of my arrows). I am thinking of using Gold Tip instead of Sirius arrows mainly due to cost. I am planning to use 125 grain cutthroat broadheads.
I like to build "bell curve" arrows that are easier to tune. So stock components with 100-150grain broadheads. They tune very well, and with that appropriate tuning and a fixed blade broadhead, one can tackle any big game species on this planet.
I am currently at 480 grains with 150 up front. Thinking of going much heavier with 250-350 up front. 30" arrow 300 spine Hunter xt gold tip. Not sure when to stop lol
I Remember the early 90’s my dad bow going off and sounding like a 30-06 going off at 100 yards away. Then that loud ting sound of that aluminum I Miss that!
I have an old Easton game getter and love it even though it's the only one I have.... Kinda want to get a half dozen of aluminum arrows.... I started hunting after carbon so I never got to enjoy them.
Love the vids just wanted to get your opinion on aluminum arrows. The ones I shoot are 2219 and it was like 550 with. 100 grain head but my foc is like 7% is that still a good option for deer hunting.
Don't sweat the FOC. Get those flying like darts and you'll blow through critters with ease.
I've shot the XX75 Camo Hunters almost exclusively for years, can't beat the cost and durability. I've even found some online, or at yard sales for next to nothing, clean them up, refletch and maybe touch up any slight bends and good to go. Good video, sometimes it seems the deeper I look into spines, gpi, foc, it muddies the waters even more.
So I'm new to archery and kind of a gorilla, I shoot 70lbs out of my ebay parker Hunter Mag at 32" draw, with a d loop and trigger release. I know enough to know I don't know much. I'm running easton axis at 340 spine because I trusted the guy at the pro shop and they were on sale. Am I screwed or does this sound like a setup I can get away with for a while if I stick to 100 grain heads? For reference my bow Ibo at 307fps
Stick to 100 or 125 grain heads as long as you have the regular aluminum inserts, you should be fine.
just got a deal on some new old stock easton xx78 super slams, a dozen 2117s for my 48 pound recurve (I have a draw length a little over 32 inches) and a dozen 2315s for my 65 pound recurve. I should be good for quite a while considering I get to shoot maybe one deer a year. The old school aluminum shafts make it nice and easy to get over 550 grains.
What would you say would be good point weight for a airstrike 340 29” 70lbs
100 or 125 at the most.
Bought a bow from an estate sale and saw the arrows included.
That gold top 300 you like the most... could I shoot that setup on my 65 lbs?
Yup!
Going to message you on insta if u don't mind...
What's your input on a 580 grain arrow 29.75 draw at 66 pounds...I have a single pin sight an hoping to still get 80 yards out of my sight do you think this is possible
Out to 80? Shew. Maybe. Too close to say, really.
@@averagejackarchery what's to close to say
I'm wanting to upgrade from fmjs to this to get more foc an I can't cut any weight without losing foc
New archer question. Can you speak to outserts. When do you use them? Do they take the place of inserts? Any advantage over just using an insert? Thanks.
Great question! So some arrows require an outsert due to their internal size being too small for standard threaded points. So they're the insert version for those super micro shafts (.166 ID). They're not used on standard or oversized shafts as a standard threaded point can fit inside. Now footers, which are often used in conjunction with outserts to give rigidity and strength to the outsert, are not exclusive to micro shafts and can be used on standard arrows to add strength and FOC to a standard inserted arrow.
I'm new, too, and bought Victory RIP Elite 350s as my first arrows. They came with outserts in the box, too. They do take the place of inserts because the common inserts are too big in diameter.
I've since popped those out of a couple of arrows and dropped in some Elite inserts to get the heavier, high FOC shafts I want to use. The inserts have a solid stainless shaft to increase the weight, and include a stainless sleeve that goes over the insert once it is installed. The net effect is to add lots more weight to the front end, even before you attach a broadhead. So, if you want to run a heavier arrow, but your favorite broadhead is only available in lighter weights, a different insert, outsert, or footer can give the you extra weight.
Good luck! I'd love to hear what you choose. I'm sure I'll end up trying lots of different setups before I find something that's effective but forgiving enough for a newbie like me.
I'm running the Sirius Vulcans, 30" Carbon to Carbon, 100 grn inserts, 150 points. gets me to 600 grains exactly. things are tough, fly beautifully, and smack like a train.
Can you do a Easton 6.5 video
What is a good line for aluminum arrows name brand?
Easton pretty much is the only one around anymore.
I'm actually getting ready to cut a set of GT xt 300's with 100gr brass this weekend :) I'm debating what length I should cut them. I'm thinking about switching to Magnus heads next season and possibly playing around with some other large broadheads and worry about riser clearance. Your experience with both leads me to 2 questions for you.
Do you cut your arrows to clear your riser when using fixed blades? (meaning long enough that the broadhead never reaches the riser at full draw).
And also, what type of glue do you prefer for your inserts?
I've had impressive luck with the durability of a brass insert super glued, (gorilla blue cap) into carbon but I pondered if I used hot glue, I would be able to simply heat and index the broadheads to clear the riser. I'm a firm believer that super glue has saved several arrows from splintering by stopping inserts from getting crammed into the shaft but I'm curious what you use. Thanks in advance!
Hot melt for me hands down. Super easy to change things in and out. As for the arrow length I always cut my hunting arrows an inch longer than my draw, which puts it past the shelf of the riser and more importantly in front of my bow hand.
Awesome. Thanks for the quick reply. I was leaning toward a longer cut and that's the second opinion I needed to get cutting. Do you ever have issues with point /inserts pulling out in the target using hot melt?
@@jm4nier20 Only when I haven't used an appropriate amount of glue, just like a regular super glue will do if you use too little. But other than that, I've had a 100% adhesion rate in aluminum and carbon shafts.
Ok, in indoor they shoot hard right/left fetching why not for hunting?
You could theoretically get away with more point weight if you use a stiffer spine. If you use a stiffer spine, you not only can use more point weight, but the overall GPI increases. This works for some people but it doesn't work for others, the only way to find out if you like going this route is to try it. (Preferably not on an animal just in case if you have something go wrong).
I feel that my next half dozen will be a 204 were I run the 166 makes harder to find components for it
Do you like the serrated or non serrated magnus broadheads better?
I flip flop back and forth. I really like the Stinger Buzzcuts. But for the Hornets I like the straight edge. Don't ask me why. Have had tremendous success and blood trails with both. Last 4 deer I harvested fell in sight. 2 with a straight Hornet and 2 with the Buzzcut.
Yes second number on aluminum arrows is wall thickness, in your example of 2315 wall is .015" thick. Second part of your statement is incorrect, ID of 2315 is not 15/64" it's 11/32" (22/64"). If ID was 15/64" that shaft would be around 6 times heavier and it could be used as high pressure tubing 😉
I’ve found if you want more FOC Black Eagle has many lighter GPI options in stiff spines for a good price. 300 spine Rampage .204 is only 8.8 GPI and the standard diameter Carnivore is even lighter. You can then add in a 100 gr stainless Ethics insert for $30 a dozen.
I personally like to have a good balance for my bow and crossbow. I find it gives the best for speed and penetration my crossbow bolts i like to be around 400-500 grains total weight my bow i like to have 300-400 grains total weight.
I shoot the Victory Decimator 350 arrows 8.7gpi, 28.5" with 100gr tips, thru my 70# Bowtech RPM 360 & My arrows blow thru true Northern Wisconsin deer (Not smaller bodied southern midget deer) as if i Missed !!!! The deer dont even know what happened....... The dead deer didnt care about arrow weight & I dont even know what my current arrows weigh in at - I just shoot them because they work good... I had the VAPs - too much $ wasted when you lose them trying to shoot out to 80 yards for the 1st time... haha
Why is it so hard to find ready to shoot heavy arrows? I just got into archery so forgive my ignorance
Outside of aluminum, which is naturally heavy, "heavy, high foc" carbon arrows are not so easily mass produced from a selling perspective. The idiosyncrasies of spine, point weight, insert build, etc. are just too much for shops to stock and control and nightmare logistically to have the time to tune everyone on a day to day basis. If heavy arrows were truly a magic bullet for the hunting industry, they would've been capitalized on decades ago and we wouldn't even have to have videos on the topic.
@@averagejackarchery That makes me think I'll just stick with what I'm practicing with to hunt with, my range is only out to 30 yards, likely less actually hunting & the broadheads I bought shoot like my field points.
All u have to do is cut it shorter. That'll stifffen it up to 300-340. Take a 400 and cut it to 25 or 26" and then u can put a heavier insert or broadheads on it.
His DL is 30.5" what is he going to do with 26" arrow?
Why the heck did we ever go away from aluminums
Don't forget to factor in losing arrows, or breaking arrows.
2117 )) 400 game getter ..100 gr g5 cs. 7 bucks 7 years all pass thorws. 70 pounds
Not necessary I shoot injexions 8.9 at 400 spine and a 340 spine w a 8.3
Heavy is only way I build mine 515-700 grains total weight
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What!?😳
Up until this year, I actually preferred a Velocity XT in 300 spine + brass insert combination; at a 26.25" finished length, I had a finished weight of ~ 455 grains with like 18% FOC. Unfortunately, my local shop stopped carrying Velocities. I may switch to Hunters and bump up my field points/broadheads to 125 grains.
I order the velocity s through Lancaster. They will cut them to your length
I can beat the Camo hunters on price! I can get XX75 Tribute shafts for $3.17 a shaft! Now you talking $3.67 a shaft for cut or about $44.04 for a dozen cut shafts! This was on Lancaster's website though and local shops would be different depending on cost, what they have, and price for service...
Why don't you talk about the benefit of adding nylon rope in the shaft. It is almost free it doesn't affect the arrow stiffness and it adds weight to the shaft. I just tested on my arrows with the rope you get 37 mm more penetration in to the target this huge and it is free. The arrow flight is normal the only things is the FOC is moved a bit more towards the center of the arrow not as much nose heavy but no issues .I was skeptical but the test do not lie . Try for yourself and you can see how much money you can save and have a heavy arrow without braking the bank and with the correct spine.
1500 grain 8mm solid shaft with steel glue on broadhead and turkey feathers (joke) 😂
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