I love when I can find videos like this on a topic because they make me feel like I don’t have to be a rocket scientist to understand what’s going on. Excellent video! 😊
unlike most videos ive seen of this nature you seem authentically interested in every little thing and that makes your videos that much better keep it up man👍
I guess im randomly asking but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account?? I was stupid forgot my login password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Rory Kamryn I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I am interested in bowhunting for deer and wild hogs, have been researching on RUclips. Mostly what I find are thinly veiled advertisements or "badass" videos of tough guys showing off their expensive gear with horrible music playing in the background. Thanks for providing straightforward information about the subject. By the way, there are fiber-reinforced cut-off wheels available for dremel tools that last much longer than the fragile, non-fiber wheels. They're a little more expensive, but they are less likely to shatter.
Glad that I can add some media that doesn't just add to the white noise of nonsense I wanted to avoid. :) And thanks for the heads up! I was unaware about those cut wheels. I'll have to look into them. God bless.
Hi When I made arrows back in the 70's I used something called a Thompson Tri-Fletch jig. It fletched 3 vanes at a time and could be adjusted to produce a helical twist in either direction. I've looked for another one, but it would appear that they're no longer made, a real shame!!! Another thing that amazes me is that you use a double sided tape??? I cannot believe that it's as good as the Bohning FletchTite adhesive that I used for everything. I could never bring myself to trust tape, and it looked like an awful lot of fussing around to get that tape situated. I just ran a bead of Fletch Tite along the quill and set the jig in the fixture. Except for the drying time, I could fletch an entire arrow in under 3 minutes. Thanks for the trip down memory lane. I wish I still made arrows. I'm not sure I could afford to do it these days? Back then I could make a dozen Easton Game Getters for about $10.00. These days 2 shaft blanks runs that much!! I made a lot of Port Orford Cedar and barrel arrows too. Thanks: Dave
Right on mate I was doing the same thing back in the late 8os 2117game getters out of pse pulsar express cam bow loved that bow getting back in to bow hunting not liking the new bows need release aid I'm a glove man
anybody else's OCD kick in when the jig kept sliding away from him? love your video's man, as someone who's new to archery your content has taught me loads. cheers.
Bugged me to death too! Thankfully I have accrued the funds to own a legitimate saw that's permanently attach to one of my work benches. Those earlier days were rough!
I wish I was handy enough to create like this. Happy to hear you're central PA. From Pottstown myself but in Canada now.. I miss the hunting culture of PA!! Taking up archery to hunt with my dad as he does archery hunting.
The Easton tool you are using is not a squaring device, it is for rounding the inner edge of the carbon arrow to make inserting components easier and less likely to snag or degrade over use. If you watch in the video as you rotate the shaft, it is moving which compromises the squaring process. You need a tool like the G5 squaring device or the F.A.S.T. Tool, both of which immobilize the shaft while it is rotated to ensure a square end. Overall a good video.
Great video! I like the Bohning fletch tape as well. The original Fletchtite glue was better than the Platinum IMHO. I put my arrows together pretty much the same way. I also use hot melt glue. I've used the craft glue, Fletchtite hot melt, which is more brittle when cool, and I'm currently using some from Big Jim's Bow Company, which is just a longer stick of the yellowish hot melt glue. No problems with any of them. I haven't tried the platinum with vanes yet. I generally use cyanoacrylate gel with them. I think the acetone or denatured alcohol and keeping your greasy fingers off the shaft is the key to getting any of the adhesives to work well. The one thing I do differently is for my hunting arrows. I usually use Zwickey Deltas, Simmons Tiger Sharks, or Magnus Stingers (usually with the bleeder blades). I like to have the blades positioned more or less vertically when on the bow, so just using a field tip won't cut it for my broadhead arrows. For those I install the inserts with a broadhead so the threads of the insert are lined up correctly. For safety's sake, always hold the broadhead with pliers or a broadhead wrench when doing the install. For practice with field tips or stumping with blunts or judo points, or probably even with three bladed broadheads, installing them the way you did is perfectly fine. Again, great video! You would make a good teacher.
Try coloring the unsquared end of the shaft with a Sharpee before squaring it. Once all the color is gone, you're pretty square. Low spots will hold the color, so keep squaring until the color is gone.
great video brother . i love your cutting tool , that's a great idea very cost effective . i need to build one i would love to get into making my own custom arrows .
Although this comment is 4 years late, I will say for squaring like some other tutorials say, it is suggested to use a silver sharpie(or whatever color that would show up nicely) that way you know that you are getting a nice 360 degrees of evenly squared shafts :)
Nate, I think you miss 2 thing. One is if I use nock pin, do I need to use same method like the point when glue it into shaft? Two, if I use insert nock (not using nock pin), what type of glue that are recommended?
Holy Mackerel, you just luv archery. installing the 'Feathers', looks to be the time consuming aspect of it. But, impatiens will have an adverse effect i'm sure
Great info! Great vid, like always. Thanks for the effort. I've heard negative things about carbon dust.. try to avoid breathing it and consider setting up a vacuum system? It's worth protecting your health!
I completely agree with you. I normally where a surgical mask or have a shop vac setup to catch the dust as soon as it's created. But that's when I'm creating dozens of arrows in a sit. For this quick video I just went without it. But thank you for mentioning something I should have in my video! God bless.
Have you found a consistent conclusive method of locating the spine (stiffest side of the circle)? Have seen different methods. Floating in soapy water, hanging a weight and measuring deflection. What do you prefer?
Do you have a video where you cover bow maintenance? I shoot a compound and was wondering if I'm supposed to put any oil on the shaft going through the pulleys and waxing of strings and such. Glad I stumbled onto your site as you have explained quite a few questions I had in a very simple to understand fashion. Thanks
question - when is the best situation to use long vanes? INdoor only? or long range, ? do the bigger wings add lift? and what degree helical do you put on long vanes, 1 degree? 3 degrees?
I would only use longer vanes (3" and over) for indoor and hunting situations. 40 and less for sure. They don't give more lift but more drag and stability. For indoor I'd go as much helical as my jig will allow. For hunting I like 2-3 deg
Great job gave me some ideas. I have tried 4flech gold tip regular size (Carbon) They have given me tighter groups (fact) Also noticed 60 yards and less quieter flying before impact. I want to move to micro arrows next.would about longer 3flech? Longer than blazer length? Any way, love the 4 flech . Too hard to glue them on?
That Easton stone you're using to "square" up the arrow isn't actually a squaring tool. It's made for the Axis arrows to put a chamfer on the inside edge of the opening. That chamfer is to accommodate field points and broadhead ferrules that have a chamfer that matches so they don't wedge the end of the arrow shaft open and split it 360 degrees upon impact with a target. You really should use an actual arrow squaring device. Otherwise, good video.
Did your friend do a bare arrow test with the point weight length he's going to use to see if it's fletch center, left or right to see if 30 inch's is fletch center.
I'm an oddball and spin the arrow with the blade. I find I get a much more consistent feel and squaring of the arrow when I do it that way. Plunge to cut through main wall, than spin slowly to get the rest of the way. Maybe it's because I'm left handed in a world built for righties? Who's to say.
Great video thanks.. Fyi, carbon and carbon nano tubes dust are well known to us in the bicycle industry to be identical to asbestos.(Causes lung cancer) wouldn't cut in living space, indoor work space, w/out mask. Your young so thought I give a heads up.
Would you use a helical with a short low profile 2" vane or just the offset? Seems like the helical would not do much on the sort fletching plus it's for a micro diameter shaft so might make it more difficult to glue them on.
Always run a helical for me. Even with that short vane, when I fletch offset vs helical I can look down the back of the arrow and see a noticeable difference. Yes, with micro shafts you have to be more away of full fletch contact, however I still manage to get a 2-3deg helical on my .166 Orion shafts.
Love the video. One question, on the last tip ( inserts) how do you line your veins with your fixed blades? Can you use your fixed blade instead of field point to put insert in, that way you can align your veins and fixed blades
I've been toying with the idea of making my own arrows because I'm kind of particular about them, and I don't shoot very standard, (I'm a lefty with a hefty draw weight on a somewhat slower bow about 305 max than hunts spot and stalk, so yeah, all kinds of strange). I'm really wanting to increase my range as I'm getting pretty consistent at 45 and 55 yards on a piece of duct tape sized point, but I'd really like to step out to about 80-100 yards mainly to challenge myself, but also to be confident in anything less like if I can hit a good group at 100 yards, even a 40 yard-60 yard shot should be simple once I build the confidence. I'm probably never going to attempt a shot even out to forty, simply because I don't want to risk anything and with spot and stalk, I've gotten within 10 yards of good shooting deer, so I should be able to close the gap a lot easier than staying stationary. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and keep up the good work, I'm like you, even if I don't actually go out and take the shots myself, I enjoy knowing and learning new things, and your explanations are very helpful. Thanks
Nope, I have never done a cresting that's a dipped paint. Maybe a vinyl wrap here and there. And for compound definitely helical is my favorite way to fletch.
Is it better to wrap the arrow or fletch straight on to the carbon? I’m thinking a wrap will preserve the carbon for re-fletching. I’m new to this and would appreciate any advice before I ruin 24 Gold tip Warrior arrows. Cheers.
For hunting shafts I think a wrap is a huge advantage for fletching. (I don't like them for target due to shooting a blade rest.) A wrap will allow you to dunk the end of the shaft into boiling water, the glue will release, and you can peel the wrap and all fletchings off in one pull in a matter of seconds. The only downside to a wrap is if you rip off a fletching, the wrap will come with it and you'll have to rewrap and fletch the whole shaft. Hope this helps!
Thank you very much! I am shooting ‘off the shelf’ with a Samick Red Stag takedown recurve. Your content is the most helpful that I have found. Cheers! I’ll be sure to follow your channel!
Hey man! What’s your take on the type of jig used? I’m looking at getting the bitzenburger but have seen others for cheaper prices (ie Arizona EZ fletcher, bohning blazer). Is there any reason you prefer the bitzenburger?
I use the Bitz, Bohning Helix Jig, and JoJan in the shop and the Bitz is just the most versatile on the market. Not to mention built like a tank. Now, if all you want is Blazers on standard arrow diameters, then cheaper options are fine. I go from .166 shafts to 27s and 2" to 5" fletchings. The Bitz can do them all.
You mention that a straight fletch gives no spin to the arrow. This is incorrect. It may not give as MUCH spin as a helical fletch, but the curve of the feather(right or left wing) DOES impart a modicum of spin, enough to stabilize the arrow in flight
@grants245906 Not really, as long as all the feathers spiral in the same direction. SOME archers claim that having the spiral go in the same direction as the hand holding the bow(i.e. bow in left hand, left hand spiral) helps move the fletching away from the bow on release. I doubt it, though; there isn't enough time between release and the fletch passing the bow for it to start being affected by air pressure. MY opinion. of course
Thanks! And to answer your question: it depends on you. I REALLY enjoy a custom arrow specifically made for me and done the right way the first time. (i.e. Wraps lined up evenly, helical on my vanes exactly they way I wanted, etc.) So making my own is a huge plus. But also, buying the components separately, in bulk, allows you to save significantly over time. I get most of my materials from eBay. The most expensive investment is the fletching jig, as a Bitzenburger is a first-rate jig. But you can definitely go cheaper, but you pay for performance. Good luck!
Hey also some folks will fire there arrows without fletching to test which way they are normally spinning and then fletch based off of whichever way the arrow spinned without fletching..do you recommend or not that big a deal?
your yt channels been great infos keep up the good work. I just got my bohning pro fletching jig. it came with the straight clamp and the problem I came into was the piece with two knobs was loose, how do I go about of lining it up?
You'll have to put a shaft in, put the clamp on, and then adjust the angle of the clamp according to your fletching. Once you've found it, mark it with permanent marker onto the jig so you always know where to go for that fletch. My jig has marks for feathers, blazers, and crossbow fletchings.
It would definitely add to the stabilization and almost certainly correct arrow flight sooner, but ultimately I don't know if the extra drag is worth it. But they do look good!
On average, a complete arrow costs $7-$12 once fully done. Sometimes you can get some (quality arrows) on sale closer to $5. If you assume an average $5-$10 for just the shafts alone, the remaining monies apply to nocks, fletchings, wraps, and inserts.
Hey, I'm just curious what that squaring tool you're using is? I can't seem to find any Easton squaring tool that looks like that or any squaring tool for that manner. Thank you!
Kyle Davidson Good question! That particular tool comes with Easton's HIT inserts so that's why I have one. G5 makes a fancy squaring tool, and I know of at least one archer on eBay that 3D prints and full device for squaring. You just insert your own sandpaper.
@@averagejackarchery ok just making sure I just wrapped and fletched 12 axis 5mm and toward the end realized I might have put them a little far from the nock
You definitely want to use an epoxy of some type for any HIT insert for Axis or FMJ shafts. My personal favorite is golf shaft epoxy. Usually a 24-48 hour cure time. You can get a lifetime supply for arrow builds for a fraction of the cost of arrow-brand-specific epoxy.
You bet! Although biscuits can be brutal on the life of your feathers. If you notice a lot of wear on 1 fletch in particular, make sure your rest is tuned correctly.
I have my wife and kids setup using a hostage style rest. Inexpensive and easy to set up, similar to a whisker biscuit, but it doesn’t contact the vanes or feathers.
Have you ever heard of STARRFLIGHT.COM. They make something called a FOB and it is designed to make the arrow much more aerodynamic, and increases accuracy. The FOB slides onto the arrow in place of the vanes. I was hoping to get your thoughts about it. I have never seen or heard anything like it before.
Craig Carper I have tried the FOBs. I love to test new things. My experience was not great with them. Since they sit at the very back of the shaft, I found they affected my anchor point which caused inconsistent accuracy for me. I also ran into clearance issues with my drop away rest. Sometimes, but not always it looked like the fob was hitting my rest, which also affected accuracy. The last issue, which they pose as a positive, but I view as a negative is that they are designed to pop off during a pass through. With a lighted nock, this helps to recover the fob and identify where the deer was shot to help tracking, but then leaves your shaft and broad head somewhere without a fletching or lighted nock on it to help you find it. If given the choice I would rather recover my arrow and broad head vs just the FOB. If you are looking for something similar you could try Helios vanes by nockturnal
Anyone who works in the archery industry will tell you they're not in it for the big bucks. If they were they would be sadly disappointed! Haha! I'll stick to just being an employee of my local shop.
hart if you plan on only really shooting one style of Arrow such as Blazer vanes and nothing else buying a jig and doing all the means and ends to making your own arrows really doesn't make much sense. For people such as myself who makes arrows for others as well as shoot several different diameter arrows and styles of Fletching it makes perfect sense.
Just like any other product, mass machine-made arrows are going to be cheaper. When you want something DIFFERENT from the crowd, then you either have to employ a craftsman to produce it, or learn to do it yourself. Either way, the cost goes up, sometimes substantially. The question you have to ask yourself is: do you want "cheap but ordinary", or do you want "costs more but is MINE alone"
use real acetone, not the one from the lady's section. that has all kinds of additives and crap. the actual acetone is in the paint department. that leaves no residue. the one you are using leaves a residue.
I love when I can find videos like this on a topic because they make me feel like I don’t have to be a rocket scientist to understand what’s going on. Excellent video! 😊
unlike most videos ive seen of this nature you seem authentically interested in every little thing and that makes your videos that much better keep it up man👍
Thanks so much for the words of encouragement! Glad you enjoy the channel. God bless.
I guess im randomly asking but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account??
I was stupid forgot my login password. I would love any help you can give me!
@Dominik Kai Instablaster :)
@Rory Kamryn I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm trying it out atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Rory Kamryn it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account !
Best fletching tutorial on RUclips. Thorough and concise
Ty man, the internet needs people like you!
Love the paper towel arrow holder - recyclable, cheap, multi-purpose!
I am interested in bowhunting for deer and wild hogs, have been researching on RUclips. Mostly what I find are thinly veiled advertisements or "badass" videos of tough guys showing off their expensive gear with horrible music playing in the background. Thanks for providing straightforward information about the subject. By the way, there are fiber-reinforced cut-off wheels available for dremel tools that last much longer than the fragile, non-fiber wheels. They're a little more expensive, but they are less likely to shatter.
Glad that I can add some media that doesn't just add to the white noise of nonsense I wanted to avoid. :)
And thanks for the heads up! I was unaware about those cut wheels. I'll have to look into them. God bless.
As a brand new bowhunter, your channel is a wealth of information!
Keep the videos coming!
That's why I make the videos! Glad I could help start your journey into archery.
Your teachers persona carries over inn to your videos! Another great video for us beginners
I got one of those fletching jigs today, and re fletched my hunting and indoor arrows. Now I get to feel super cool and just buy shafts!
Hi
When I made arrows back in the 70's I used something called a Thompson Tri-Fletch jig. It fletched 3 vanes at a time and could be adjusted to produce a helical twist in either direction. I've looked for another one, but it would appear that they're no longer made, a real shame!!! Another thing that amazes me is that you use a double sided tape??? I cannot believe that it's as good as the Bohning FletchTite adhesive that I used for everything. I could never bring myself to trust tape, and it looked like an awful lot of fussing around to get that tape situated. I just ran a bead of Fletch Tite along the quill and set the jig in the fixture. Except for the drying time, I could fletch an entire arrow in under 3 minutes.
Thanks for the trip down memory lane. I wish I still made arrows. I'm not sure I could afford to do it these days? Back then I could make a dozen Easton Game Getters for about $10.00. These days 2 shaft blanks runs that much!! I made a lot of Port Orford Cedar and barrel arrows too.
Thanks:
Dave
Right on mate I was doing the same thing back in the late 8os 2117game getters out of pse pulsar express cam bow loved that bow getting back in to bow hunting not liking the new bows need release aid I'm a glove man
well done! Professional presentation, through and well explained. thanks!
You're most welcome! God bless.
anybody else's OCD kick in when the jig kept sliding away from him? love your video's man, as someone who's new to archery your content has taught me loads. cheers.
Bugged me to death too! Thankfully I have accrued the funds to own a legitimate saw that's permanently attach to one of my work benches. Those earlier days were rough!
As someone new to making arrows, I've learned a LOT. Thanks so much for sharing.
Well, you've inspired me to make next set of arrows. Thank you. Subscribing was easy decision.
I have only been shooting since March so I'm still pretty green but this has been the best archery channel yet.
Thank you so much for the kind words! Good luck this season and God bless.
Outstanding Job! AJ. Thank you for the DIY.
Great videos.
I'm fairly new to archery, so I"m absorbing as much as I can.
I enjoy your presentation, and information!
I wish I was handy enough to create like this. Happy to hear you're central PA. From Pottstown myself but in Canada now.. I miss the hunting culture of PA!! Taking up archery to hunt with my dad as he does archery hunting.
love your videos. now I know what to do with my rotary tool that has been sitting in my shed for 5 years!
Big G Glad your enjoy them! Now go knock the dust off that tool.
Your video, sir, has inspired me to begin making my arrows myself!
Thank you for providing the knowledge and insight!
May your arrows fly true!
Just stumbled on this channel. Just want to say I really enjoy it. Keep it coming brother.
The Easton tool you are using is not a squaring device, it is for rounding the inner edge of the carbon arrow to make inserting components easier and less likely to snag or degrade over use. If you watch in the video as you rotate the shaft, it is moving which compromises the squaring process. You need a tool like the G5 squaring device or the F.A.S.T. Tool, both of which immobilize the shaft while it is rotated to ensure a square end. Overall a good video.
bro the pride on your face after you finished haha good shit
Fantastic video, thanks a lot this will be helpful in the repair process!
A vid from 7 years ago.
Look how young you look.
I'm occasionally catch my reflection in a window and there's this old guy looking at me
Excellent video, thanks! I hope that sock is "unused".
keep making vids ur the best teacher and good at making vids be awesome forever😎😎😎
Great video. Thank you
Great video! I like the Bohning fletch tape as well. The original Fletchtite glue was better than the Platinum IMHO. I put my arrows together pretty much the same way. I also use hot melt glue. I've used the craft glue, Fletchtite hot melt, which is more brittle when cool, and I'm currently using some from Big Jim's Bow Company, which is just a longer stick of the yellowish hot melt glue. No problems with any of them. I haven't tried the platinum with vanes yet. I generally use cyanoacrylate gel with them. I think the acetone or denatured alcohol and keeping your greasy fingers off the shaft is the key to getting any of the adhesives to work well.
The one thing I do differently is for my hunting arrows. I usually use Zwickey Deltas, Simmons Tiger Sharks, or Magnus Stingers (usually with the bleeder blades). I like to have the blades positioned more or less vertically when on the bow, so just using a field tip won't cut it for my broadhead arrows. For those I install the inserts with a broadhead so the threads of the insert are lined up correctly. For safety's sake, always hold the broadhead with pliers or a broadhead wrench when doing the install. For practice with field tips or stumping with blunts or judo points, or probably even with three bladed broadheads, installing them the way you did is perfectly fine.
Again, great video! You would make a good teacher.
Try coloring the unsquared end of the shaft with a Sharpee before squaring it. Once all the color is gone, you're pretty square. Low spots will hold the color, so keep squaring until the color is gone.
Great video Bud 👍🏻,,, Thank You
great video brother . i love your cutting tool , that's a great idea very cost effective . i need to build one i would love to get into making my own custom arrows .
jay thompson Hey thanks! It's truly one of my favorite parts of archery. I love that I can make anything the way I want it. God bless.
What's up Mr.S it is Matthew Sly using my brothers account!!! See you in class!!!😜
You can use a strait clamp at an offset to put spin on it
Although this comment is 4 years late, I will say for squaring like some other tutorials say, it is suggested to use a silver sharpie(or whatever color that would show up nicely) that way you know that you are getting a nice 360 degrees of evenly squared shafts :)
That's a good how too right there
Nate, I think you miss 2 thing. One is if I use nock pin, do I need to use same method like the point when glue it into shaft? Two, if I use insert nock (not using nock pin), what type of glue that are recommended?
Thanks mate great vid.I also use glue.
get some non-slip webbing for rugs and glue it to the bottom of your cutting jig the help keep it from moving
Keep making videos! 👍
+Andrew Watanabe I plan on it! Thanks for watching and God Bless.
Why is anyone giving your vid a thumbs down?
Holy Mackerel, you just luv archery. installing the 'Feathers', looks to be the time consuming aspect of it. But, impatiens will have an adverse effect i'm sure
Great info! Great vid, like always. Thanks for the effort.
I've heard negative things about carbon dust.. try to avoid breathing it and consider setting up a vacuum system? It's worth protecting your health!
Just finished my first arrows thanks to this video :D Keep up the good work :D
Can these Easton powerflight be used for hunting??
What spine arrows are you fletching here?
What's the point size for these arrows??
Yes.
500 Spine.
9/32, 100 grain.
Have you considered rubber gloves from Sam's (pharmacy dept.) or Harbor freight? They are cheap and could prevent contamination between steps.
DewestMusic 243 I never have! Good insight!
U really should be more careful with the carbon dust. Nasty in the lungs, nasty in the veins.
I completely agree with you. I normally where a surgical mask or have a shop vac setup to catch the dust as soon as it's created. But that's when I'm creating dozens of arrows in a sit. For this quick video I just went without it. But thank you for mentioning something I should have in my video! God bless.
Subscribed.
Thanks so much! I'm glad you enjoy the channel enough to do so! God bless.
Average Jack Archery I know it’s a bit late but spraying it down with water helps keep carbon dust down too
good job Mr.s
Have you found a consistent conclusive method of locating the spine (stiffest side of the circle)? Have seen different methods. Floating in soapy water, hanging a weight and measuring deflection. What do you prefer?
I don't do any fancy method to find the spine. Dynamic spine matters more. You can only find that by shooting. So that's the method I prefer.
Do you have a video where you cover bow maintenance? I shoot a compound and was wondering if I'm supposed to put any oil on the shaft going through the pulleys and waxing of strings and such. Glad I stumbled onto your site as you have explained quite a few questions I had in a very simple to understand fashion. Thanks
1LRLRG I don't have that particular video but it's on a mile long list of ones I'm hoping to make!
wow Matthew sly good job
question - when is the best situation to use long vanes? INdoor only? or long range, ? do the bigger wings add lift? and what degree helical do you put on long vanes, 1 degree? 3 degrees?
I would only use longer vanes (3" and over) for indoor and hunting situations. 40 and less for sure. They don't give more lift but more drag and stability. For indoor I'd go as much helical as my jig will allow. For hunting I like 2-3 deg
How well does the tape hold up on the feathers is it better than glue as far as past throughs
Great video, very informative. I was wondering how you know the helical offset is at 3 degrees.
A well trained eye. There is no exact way to tell.
Great job gave me some ideas.
I have tried 4flech gold tip regular size (Carbon)
They have given me tighter groups (fact)
Also noticed 60 yards and less quieter flying before impact.
I want to move to micro arrows next.would about longer 3flech?
Longer than blazer length?
Any way, love the 4 flech . Too hard to glue them on?
That Easton stone you're using to "square" up the arrow isn't actually a squaring tool. It's made for the Axis arrows to put a chamfer on the inside edge of the opening. That chamfer is to accommodate field points and broadhead ferrules that have a chamfer that matches so they don't wedge the end of the arrow shaft open and split it 360 degrees upon impact with a target. You really should use an actual arrow squaring device. Otherwise, good video.
Did your friend do a bare arrow test with the point weight length he's going to use to see if it's fletch center, left or right to see if 30 inch's is fletch center.
When cutting, do you rotate the arrow into the blade (so that the arrow surface and blade surface move in opposite directions)?
I'm an oddball and spin the arrow with the blade. I find I get a much more consistent feel and squaring of the arrow when I do it that way. Plunge to cut through main wall, than spin slowly to get the rest of the way. Maybe it's because I'm left handed in a world built for righties? Who's to say.
Great video thanks..
Fyi, carbon and carbon nano tubes dust are well known to us in the bicycle industry to be identical to asbestos.(Causes lung cancer) wouldn't cut in living space, indoor work space, w/out mask. Your young so thought I give a heads up.
Would you use a helical with a short low profile 2" vane or just the offset? Seems like the helical would not do much on the sort fletching plus it's for a micro diameter shaft so might make it more difficult to glue them on.
Always run a helical for me. Even with that short vane, when I fletch offset vs helical I can look down the back of the arrow and see a noticeable difference. Yes, with micro shafts you have to be more away of full fletch contact, however I still manage to get a 2-3deg helical on my .166 Orion shafts.
@@averagejackarchery Yes I did a test yesterday and you are correct. I like the look of it. Will do that when my new arrows come in. Thanks
Love the video. One question, on the last tip ( inserts) how do you line your veins with your fixed blades? Can you use your fixed blade instead of field point to put insert in, that way you can align your veins and fixed blades
Allison Hooker ruclips.net/video/2CEaxjF_iac/видео.html
I have a 2 minute tip on just that topic! Check out my full playlist of 2 minute tip videos!
I've been toying with the idea of making my own arrows because I'm kind of particular about them, and I don't shoot very standard, (I'm a lefty with a hefty draw weight on a somewhat slower bow about 305 max than hunts spot and stalk, so yeah, all kinds of strange). I'm really wanting to increase my range as I'm getting pretty consistent at 45 and 55 yards on a piece of duct tape sized point, but I'd really like to step out to about 80-100 yards mainly to challenge myself, but also to be confident in anything less like if I can hit a good group at 100 yards, even a 40 yard-60 yard shot should be simple once I build the confidence. I'm probably never going to attempt a shot even out to forty, simply because I don't want to risk anything and with spot and stalk, I've gotten within 10 yards of good shooting deer, so I should be able to close the gap a lot easier than staying stationary. Any and all suggestions would be greatly appreciated, and keep up the good work, I'm like you, even if I don't actually go out and take the shots myself, I enjoy knowing and learning new things, and your explanations are very helpful. Thanks
thank you so much!
If a self knock on a bamboo arrow is a little loose on the string how can it be tightened a little? Thanks.
You dont do crown dip and crest? Do you use helical fletch for compound?
Nope, I have never done a cresting that's a dipped paint. Maybe a vinyl wrap here and there. And for compound definitely helical is my favorite way to fletch.
Hey AJ when you get helical clamp is it automatically 3 degrees or 1 degree?
Is it better to wrap the arrow or fletch straight on to the carbon? I’m thinking a wrap will preserve the carbon for re-fletching. I’m new to this and would appreciate any advice before I ruin 24 Gold tip Warrior arrows. Cheers.
For hunting shafts I think a wrap is a huge advantage for fletching. (I don't like them for target due to shooting a blade rest.) A wrap will allow you to dunk the end of the shaft into boiling water, the glue will release, and you can peel the wrap and all fletchings off in one pull in a matter of seconds. The only downside to a wrap is if you rip off a fletching, the wrap will come with it and you'll have to rewrap and fletch the whole shaft. Hope this helps!
Thank you very much! I am shooting ‘off the shelf’ with a Samick Red Stag takedown recurve. Your content is the most helpful that I have found. Cheers! I’ll be sure to follow your channel!
What glue would you recommend for blazer vanes glued directly to the shaft. Thanks for the help.
I currently use Gorilla Glue Green Gel and it could stick water to a fish. Little goes a long way.
@@averagejackarchery thanks I greatly appreciate all you do
What is that squaring stone thing you use, and where can one be purchased?
do you still recommend a right helical over a straight?
Oh yes. Always recommend either a right or left helical. My personal favorite is right.
Hey man! What’s your take on the type of jig used? I’m looking at getting the bitzenburger but have seen others for cheaper prices (ie Arizona EZ fletcher, bohning blazer). Is there any reason you prefer the bitzenburger?
I use the Bitz, Bohning Helix Jig, and JoJan in the shop and the Bitz is just the most versatile on the market. Not to mention built like a tank. Now, if all you want is Blazers on standard arrow diameters, then cheaper options are fine. I go from .166 shafts to 27s and 2" to 5" fletchings. The Bitz can do them all.
Thanks man that’s super helpful!
You mention that a straight fletch gives no spin to the arrow. This is incorrect. It may not give as MUCH spin as a helical fletch, but the curve of the feather(right or left wing) DOES impart a
modicum of spin, enough to stabilize the arrow in flight
@grants245906 Not really, as long as all the feathers spiral in the same direction. SOME archers claim that having the spiral go in the same direction as the hand holding the bow(i.e. bow in left hand, left hand spiral) helps move the fletching away from the bow on release. I doubt it, though; there isn't enough time between release and the fletch passing the bow for it to start being affected by air pressure. MY opinion. of course
@grants245906 First you learn to get consistent in your stance and release, then you start worrying about accuracy and distances
Does this save money? Or is it just a hobby. Great video by the way.
Thanks! And to answer your question: it depends on you. I REALLY enjoy a custom arrow specifically made for me and done the right way the first time. (i.e. Wraps lined up evenly, helical on my vanes exactly they way I wanted, etc.) So making my own is a huge plus. But also, buying the components separately, in bulk, allows you to save significantly over time. I get most of my materials from eBay. The most expensive investment is the fletching jig, as a Bitzenburger is a first-rate jig. But you can definitely go cheaper, but you pay for performance. Good luck!
so far Jack is not average at all. lol
How much does a whole set cost? for making arrows
Hey also some folks will fire there arrows without fletching to test which way they are normally spinning and then fletch based off of whichever way the arrow spinned without fletching..do you recommend or not that big a deal?
For 99.999% percent of archers, it's not necessary.
tell me a vane material that i can use instead of purchased ones and no duck tape
your yt channels been great infos keep up the good work. I just got my bohning pro fletching jig. it came with the straight clamp and the problem I came into was the piece with two knobs was loose, how do I go about of lining it up?
You'll have to put a shaft in, put the clamp on, and then adjust the angle of the clamp according to your fletching. Once you've found it, mark it with permanent marker onto the jig so you always know where to go for that fletch. My jig has marks for feathers, blazers, and crossbow fletchings.
awsum!!!! thank u for replying so fast, please keep up the awsum yt channels
Would you say a arrow with four fletchings will help control a fixed blade brodhead better or is the any difference between 3 and 4 fletchings
It would definitely add to the stabilization and almost certainly correct arrow flight sooner, but ultimately I don't know if the extra drag is worth it. But they do look good!
hi 500 spine 30 shaft cut is good for 60 pound bow and 27 draw 100gn point ?
With so much work involved in making your own arrows why do shafts cost so much?
On average, a complete arrow costs $7-$12 once fully done. Sometimes you can get some (quality arrows) on sale closer to $5. If you assume an average $5-$10 for just the shafts alone, the remaining monies apply to nocks, fletchings, wraps, and inserts.
Hey, I'm just curious what that squaring tool you're using is? I can't seem to find any Easton squaring tool that looks like that or any squaring tool for that manner. Thank you!
Kyle Davidson Good question! That particular tool comes with Easton's HIT inserts so that's why I have one. G5 makes a fancy squaring tool, and I know of at least one archer on eBay that 3D prints and full device for squaring. You just insert your own sandpaper.
Average Jack Archery thanks for the quick response! Still learning and your videos are a great help. Cheers!
son,,, you better ware a very good mask,,, 35 years in my paint and body shop and i know
How much space from the nock to the back of vane?
That's very user and nock specific. I don't even have an exact measurement on mine, just a mark that gives me appropriate face clearance.
@@averagejackarchery ok just making sure I just wrapped and fletched 12 axis 5mm and toward the end realized I might have put them a little far from the nock
could you do a video on Easton FMJS, every pro shop I go to says you need to use a epoxy glue and the new insert. is this true?
You definitely want to use an epoxy of some type for any HIT insert for Axis or FMJ shafts. My personal favorite is golf shaft epoxy. Usually a 24-48 hour cure time. You can get a lifetime supply for arrow builds for a fraction of the cost of arrow-brand-specific epoxy.
thanks for that info!
Is it ok to use feather on a whisker biscuit rest?
You bet! Although biscuits can be brutal on the life of your feathers. If you notice a lot of wear on 1 fletch in particular, make sure your rest is tuned correctly.
ok thanks man, love you channel
I have my wife and kids setup using a hostage style rest. Inexpensive and easy to set up, similar to a whisker biscuit, but it doesn’t contact the vanes or feathers.
Have you ever heard of STARRFLIGHT.COM. They make something called a FOB and it is designed to make the arrow much more aerodynamic, and increases accuracy. The FOB slides onto the arrow in place of the vanes. I was hoping to get your thoughts about it. I have never seen or heard anything like it before.
Craig Carper I have tried the FOBs. I love to test new things. My experience was not great with them. Since they sit at the very back of the shaft, I found they affected my anchor point which caused inconsistent accuracy for me. I also ran into clearance issues with my drop away rest. Sometimes, but not always it looked like the fob was hitting my rest, which also affected accuracy. The last issue, which they pose as a positive, but I view as a negative is that they are designed to pop off during a pass through. With a lighted nock, this helps to recover the fob and identify where the deer was shot to help tracking, but then leaves your shaft and broad head somewhere without a fletching or lighted nock on it to help you find it. If given the choice I would rather recover my arrow and broad head vs just the FOB.
If you are looking for something similar you could try Helios vanes by nockturnal
you should open your own archery shop.
Anyone who works in the archery industry will tell you they're not in it for the big bucks. If they were they would be sadly disappointed! Haha! I'll stick to just being an employee of my local shop.
Haha so true!
it is meadow
Is it cheaper to make arrows?
What's the pros and cons over just buying them???
#noob
hart if you plan on only really shooting one style of Arrow such as Blazer vanes and nothing else buying a jig and doing all the means and ends to making your own arrows really doesn't make much sense. For people such as myself who makes arrows for others as well as shoot several different diameter arrows and styles of Fletching it makes perfect sense.
Average Jack Archery ok, thank you so much!
Just like any other product, mass machine-made arrows are going to be cheaper. When you want something DIFFERENT from the crowd, then you either have to employ a craftsman
to produce it, or learn to do it yourself. Either way, the cost goes up, sometimes substantially. The question you have to ask yourself is: do you want "cheap but ordinary", or do you
want "costs more but is MINE alone"
Are you a school teacher?
Is it that painfully obvious? :)
never in my life have i heard threaded rod called all-thread lol
Dragon800 that’s what it is.
Blitzburgh
I don't mean that in a good way matthew
were do you get the shafts
jack boyd Mostly eBay. But there Internet options are limitless.
use real acetone, not the one from the lady's section. that has all kinds of additives and crap. the actual acetone is in the paint department. that leaves no residue. the one you are using leaves a residue.