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G'day Jody, thanks heaps. I have been welding mainly stainless & mild steel for many years in Oz ,I started watching your aluminium welding vids save me so much time and grief . Now, reasonable quality aluminium welds regularly has made an enormous difference. Thank you.
Jody,! I started doing this almost 5 yrs ago when you started learning me something through your videos!😂👊 These are for sure worth their weight in gold! So awesome to test as you weld!!!
Yup which is why we bomb them to check.. when I worked in the O&G industry supervising building small process plants (B31.3), all the roots had to be TIG'd, inspected, then the rest could be stick'd
Thank you, great video. Also, breaking open the welds is another easy way to inspect your welds. On butt type welds, section out about a 1" to 2" wide coupon from your weld. Score the cap and root with a hacksaw blade no more than 1/32" deep. Then bend the the coupon back and forth until it breaks. This is good for revealing any porosity in the weld. T joint fillet welds can also be done this way if they are welded on only one side. In addition to revealing any porosity over a wide portion of the weld, it can also give you a good idea of the weld ductility by how many times that you have to bend it back and forth. If you want to, if you have a hydraulic press you can design and build a fixture to do notch break tensile tests on butt welds. You can also design a fixture just to use a 10 or 20 ton bottle jack to also do nick break tests on butt welds.
I've had really good results using ferric chloride (the pcb etchant mentioned) for steel. Muriatic acid (concrete cleaner) on aluminum. Alternating muriatic/ferric for stainless/high alloy.
For my own weld testing, usually I like to reuse material, so I'll cut the weld out and reuse base material. So if I'm practicing say, 2" sch 80 pipe, if I got 6" of pipe. Cut it into two 3" pieces, weld it. Then I'll take the band saw or slice wheel, cut about 1/8" away from the toes, reuse material, get several welds out of limited material before it's too small to use, afterwards I'll sometimes do a nick break, more on that later on. Then I'll usually do visual inspection on the root, and I can cut across the weld and sand/polish it. Usually I just sand it and look with a 10x hand lense. Saves on material. But if I want to do more in depth testing, in half an hour I made a down and dirty ASME/AWS bend test jig that works with a bottle jack. Could also do nick break tests like for API 1104, gives a good indication of inclusions or porosity and all it takes is a vice and hammer or cheater bar. I don't weld often anymore, do mostly geotech and diamond drilling. But the occasional steel casing needs to be installed and when it does, law explicitly says "welder certified to applicable ASME, API, or AWS standards is required"
"...pretty welds aren't necessarily good welds." Well said, sir. My welds may not always be "pretty", but they don't break. Ive seen factory welds where one side had absolutely ZERO penetration. Could you do (if you haven't already) a video on cleaning corrosion, with specific emphassis on the difference between rust and rot. In my experience, to many people, apprentices and experienced alike, don't understand that there IS a difference.
I love your videos - I have learned a lot! But is there any science to ensuring you have fusion in the root? How much strength is lost if it doesn’t completely weld into the root?
complete fusion into the root of a fillet weld is a requirement for most fillet weld tests. But that said, there is likely some amount of lack of fusion in most fillet welds you see every day. It really depends on the application as to how important it is. For example lack of fusion in the root of a socket weld under high pressure and that undergoes expansion/contraction from thermal cycles is more likely to propagate a crack than a stationary baseplate on a column.
That multipass stick weld sure was lacking some fusion through the seem you can see that the seem isn't melted all the way together. LOL JK. Nice fusion there JODY. I've never had the time to do an etch test in my 25 years as a welder. Your videos have been very educational to me since the first time I ever watched one of them
I have tried everything to etch my TIG weld. They will not etch. Any reason? The welds look great and burned in good. ER70S-6 filler. Been welding for years and even welded molds when I was a tool maker with TIG.. I cannot get a etch line. I even cut the welded part off and it was burned in as it should be. I am using Permatex 81756 Rust Dissolver.
Welding 6mm(1/4inch) to 6mm(1/4inch) carbon steel plate outside corner joint. Realistically can i use 1/16 6013 for the root pass. And then fill with 7018. My inverter SMAW machine doesn't support Cellulose 6010 electrods, and i can't find anyone who sells 6011 in my area. Appreciate it.
Why T joint/fillet joint require x ray for aerospace component mr. Joddy?. I think x ray cannot measure size of lack of fusion. Do you have opinion or experience about this case.. Thanks for answer
Almost there with my 30 videos in 30 Days for August …customer appreciation month at weldmonger.com. Lots of deals and giveaways going on too but you will need to sign up here weldmongerstore.com/blogs/weldingtipsandtricks
Where is the link for the video on why the one person had to do that 5F test? tia
Jody can put a video up every ten minutes and it still wouldn't be enough. Never gets old. Great work Jody....
Agreed!!!
I enjoy learning from Jody in his videos … great job Jody.
Solid Video, love how you used both recent and old video to show what you mean.
G'day Jody, thanks heaps. I have been welding mainly stainless & mild steel for many years in Oz ,I started watching your aluminium welding vids save me so much time and grief . Now, reasonable quality aluminium welds regularly has made an enormous difference. Thank you.
That dog don't hunt! Great video -ty!
Great video Jody. So educational
Jody,!
I started doing this almost 5 yrs ago when you started learning me something through your videos!😂👊
These are for sure worth their weight in gold! So awesome to test as you weld!!!
Very good point Jody! Many times pipe welds can look super slick. However in many cases there is not penetration at all.
Yup which is why we bomb them to check.. when I worked in the O&G industry supervising building small process plants (B31.3), all the roots had to be TIG'd, inspected, then the rest could be stick'd
Thank you, great video. Also, breaking open the welds is another easy way to inspect your welds. On butt type welds, section out about a 1" to 2" wide coupon from your weld. Score the cap and root with a hacksaw blade no more than 1/32" deep. Then bend the the coupon back and forth until it breaks. This is good for revealing any porosity in the weld. T joint fillet welds can also be done this way if they are welded on only one side. In addition to revealing any porosity over a wide portion of the weld, it can also give you a good idea of the weld ductility by how many times that you have to bend it back and forth. If you want to, if you have a hydraulic press you can design and build a fixture to do notch break tensile tests on butt welds. You can also design a fixture just to use a 10 or 20 ton bottle jack to also do nick break tests on butt welds.
I've had really good results using ferric chloride (the pcb etchant mentioned) for steel. Muriatic acid (concrete cleaner) on aluminum. Alternating muriatic/ferric for stainless/high alloy.
For my own weld testing, usually I like to reuse material, so I'll cut the weld out and reuse base material. So if I'm practicing say, 2" sch 80 pipe, if I got 6" of pipe. Cut it into two 3" pieces, weld it. Then I'll take the band saw or slice wheel, cut about 1/8" away from the toes, reuse material, get several welds out of limited material before it's too small to use, afterwards I'll sometimes do a nick break, more on that later on. Then I'll usually do visual inspection on the root, and I can cut across the weld and sand/polish it. Usually I just sand it and look with a 10x hand lense. Saves on material. But if I want to do more in depth testing, in half an hour I made a down and dirty ASME/AWS bend test jig that works with a bottle jack. Could also do nick break tests like for API 1104, gives a good indication of inclusions or porosity and all it takes is a vice and hammer or cheater bar. I don't weld often anymore, do mostly geotech and diamond drilling. But the occasional steel casing needs to be installed and when it does, law explicitly says "welder certified to applicable ASME, API, or AWS standards is required"
Great stuff, thank you for sharing such useful, concise and cool videos!
Merci cette vidéo qui comme d'habitude est super
"...pretty welds aren't necessarily good welds." Well said, sir. My welds may not always be "pretty", but they don't break. Ive seen factory welds where one side had absolutely ZERO penetration.
Could you do (if you haven't already) a video on cleaning corrosion, with specific emphassis on the difference between rust and rot.
In my experience, to many people, apprentices and experienced alike, don't understand that there IS a difference.
What is rot on steel?
I love your videos - I have learned a lot! But is there any science to ensuring you have fusion in the root? How much strength is lost if it doesn’t completely weld into the root?
complete fusion into the root of a fillet weld is a requirement for most fillet weld tests. But that said, there is likely some amount of lack of fusion in most fillet welds you see every day. It really depends on the application as to how important it is. For example lack of fusion in the root of a socket weld under high pressure and that undergoes expansion/contraction from thermal cycles is more likely to propagate a crack than a stationary baseplate on a column.
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That multipass stick weld sure was lacking some fusion through the seem you can see that the seem isn't melted all the way together. LOL JK. Nice fusion there JODY. I've never had the time to do an etch test in my 25 years as a welder. Your videos have been very educational to me since the first time I ever watched one of them
I have tried everything to etch my TIG weld. They will not etch. Any reason? The welds look great and burned in good. ER70S-6 filler. Been welding for years and even welded molds when I was a tool maker with TIG.. I cannot get a etch line. I even cut the welded part off and it was burned in as it should be. I am using Permatex 81756 Rust Dissolver.
Welding 6mm(1/4inch) to 6mm(1/4inch) carbon steel plate outside corner joint. Realistically can i use 1/16 6013 for the root pass. And then fill with 7018. My inverter SMAW machine doesn't support Cellulose 6010 electrods, and i can't find anyone who sells 6011 in my area. Appreciate it.
What adapter is that for the roloc on the electric grinder? I’m been looking for one for a while.
So where is the link for the weld test your friend had to take?
ruclips.net/video/VX-e0zTufBw/видео.html
Why T joint/fillet joint require x ray for aerospace component mr. Joddy?. I think x ray cannot measure size of lack of fusion. Do you have opinion or experience about this case.. Thanks for answer
fillet welds are not often x rayed but socket welds are sometimes x rayed to verify a gap
@@weldingtipsandtricks you mean that focus of x ray in fillet joint is to verify gap beside weld defect isn't it?
The worst words to hear from a lady.