Love the videos on how you make things! It is refreshing to see someone that does all the parts in house and doesn't farm out the door or drawers! Can tell you take a lot of pride in your work and I enjoy watching the details!
Many ways to perform a task. I was taught to add 1/16 to all widths,and have only recently discovered the "bury the blade " technique. Having used a dual drum and single wide belt. Negative of drum is time changing paper,but multiple heads are a positive for either. The new insert cutters are very nice to change,I can verify they will break when mistakenly running in wrong direction 😢. 2 shapers with 1 dedicated for each process is definitely worth it. Rabbiting mdf in a routertable without serious dust collection, is a Bosch 1617's kryptonite. I currently have 6 needing bearings,which are of course on back order. Having run stick top drawer stiles without a power feeder,causes a serious pucker factor lol. Proper setup for height alignment,and copes being square... are the biggest time saving steps in the entire process. Pinning doors instead of full clamping for pressure activated glue,is a road to failure IMO. I think a tool that would sell very well, would be a sanding jointer. Guaranteed depth control leaving a clean repeatable finish. Sanding edges on a 60 inch door with an edge sander,takes brute force and finesse. Thanks for sharing your well thought out processes!
Great video, I've made lots of doors and drawer fronts and was happy to see that my process (mostly) mirrors a professional like you. 1 question please: I believe you said that the MDF panel has its rabbets cut so that there will be about a 1/16th reveal around the perimeter (back of the door). I would have thought that doing it that way would make the painting and final finishing process very difficult -- to fill that 1/16th channel with paint, sand between coats, etc. Why not just have no reveal? If it's an aesthetics thing I get that, but then how do you do the finishing? Would LOVE to see a Part 3 video where the doors are sprayed -- what type of finishing coating you're using, spraying process, any final steps after spraying. Also, wouldn't you want to pre-drill for any 35mm cups (for hinges) prior to spraying? Thanks and all the best
I was getting tear out on dados on the rails and stiles, I switched to a dado on the table saw and that solved it. That said, I have to feed it all by hand. A power feeder on a table saw would be cool.
I've been following you on Insta and really enjoying this long-form content. Curious how you handle MDF that has some bow/warp to it for doors taller than 30". i.e. Does a bowed MDF panel warp the stiles and, thus, warp the door? I'm constantly fighting ply and MDF that's not flat, and would appreciate your thoughts. Thx!
i would like to see the sanding and edge breaking i feel like that is what gives the door its best look and i struggle with it. i like the cutting the doors to length at the end tho.
Nice work Josh👌🏼 so curious do you have an expansion gap around the panel or are the stiles and rails tight on the panel? If so how to keep the panel “floating” but centered? Digging the channel man. One of these days I’ll get on here 😅
Your system is pretty much the same as mine, except the third cut when you are ripping the first stile, I do on the slider too, only the last cut I do using the rip fence. I think its a bit faster, as you just line that stile to your 2" mark on the crosscut fence. Although my panel saw is 10ft, so maybe you do it this way as the stroke is too short for the full height doors?
Exactly. I was actually taught the way you’re describing. However with my slider I can’t do big doors like that. I could still do the smaller ones. I have just gotten so used to taking them to the other saw. You’re right though. Definitely a little faster.
@@NE_woodworks yeah, that makes sense, I would probably be the same, I tend to like to keep things in a system and do everything the same, even if I could do a few of them a bit faster in a different way. I think if you can keep to just doing that one set up and repeat, your cock up probability drops dramatically. I'm in the UK, and your workflow in general seems very similar to what would be like standard operating procedure over here, feels like I could be watching an English cabinet makers workshop, except for the tool brands.
What do you do about that 16th inch backside panel reveal on drawer boxes. Do you shim the back so it won’t “squeeze in” when putting hardware on (I’ve had the center panel deform when when the gap between the box and drawer front closed up when putting on pulls, I use strips of veneer if needed now to fill the gap near the pulls).
How does the paper hold up on your drum sander as for staying on ? My son bought the large Grizzly drum sander a few years ago and he didnt like it due to those issues. He got no satisfaction from Grizzly other than them saying they were aware of the issue. He sold the machine and bought a used Powermatic 36” verticle belt sander.
I use a similar process, having 2 shapers makes all the difference in the world, seems like your process for oversizing is a lot more work, but if it works for you that's all that matters, I just make mine an 1/8 oversized then trim off a 1/16 each side. I have a video on my channel of my process that I did a few months ago if you want to see that.
one of the best "how to" door videos i have watched
Thanks
I wish every RUclipsr would have goggle tan 😜😂
Extremely jealous of your shop setup also!
Hahaha.
Fantastic work and videos. I have a feeling this channel is really going to take off
Thank you 🙏
Love the videos on how you make things! It is refreshing to see someone that does all the parts in house and doesn't farm out the door or drawers! Can tell you take a lot of pride in your work and I enjoy watching the details!
Thank you
Keep going. You are providing valued and honest content.
Thanks. Will do
Great Work! keep the videos coming!
Thank you!
Nice work! Thanks.
Thank you
Congratulations on breaking a thousand!
Thank you
Great process! If it works for you that is money and that's what the deal is.
Thanks man
Many ways to perform a task.
I was taught to add 1/16 to all widths,and have only recently discovered the "bury the blade " technique.
Having used a dual drum and single wide belt.
Negative of drum is time changing paper,but multiple heads are a positive for either.
The new insert cutters are very nice to change,I can verify they will break when mistakenly running in wrong direction 😢.
2 shapers with 1 dedicated for each process is definitely worth it.
Rabbiting mdf in a routertable without serious dust collection, is a Bosch 1617's kryptonite.
I currently have 6 needing bearings,which are of course on back order.
Having run stick top drawer stiles without a power feeder,causes a serious pucker factor lol.
Proper setup for height alignment,and copes being square... are the biggest time saving steps in the entire process.
Pinning doors instead of full clamping for pressure activated glue,is a road to failure IMO.
I think a tool that would sell very well, would be a sanding jointer.
Guaranteed depth control leaving a clean repeatable finish.
Sanding edges on a 60 inch door with an edge sander,takes brute force and finesse.
Thanks for sharing your well thought out processes!
Thank you for your well thought out comments. Appreciate the feedback. Thanks for watching.
Great video, I've made lots of doors and drawer fronts and was happy to see that my process (mostly) mirrors a professional like you. 1 question please: I believe you said that the MDF panel has its rabbets cut so that there will be about a 1/16th reveal around the perimeter (back of the door). I would have thought that doing it that way would make the painting and final finishing process very difficult -- to fill that 1/16th channel with paint, sand between coats, etc. Why not just have no reveal? If it's an aesthetics thing I get that, but then how do you do the finishing? Would LOVE to see a Part 3 video where the doors are sprayed -- what type of finishing coating you're using, spraying process, any final steps after spraying. Also, wouldn't you want to pre-drill for any 35mm cups (for hinges) prior to spraying? Thanks and all the best
Thanks for watching. Check out my video I did on spraying. I go over what happens on the backside of the door
🎉🎉🎉
🤙
Great video. You did an awesome job walking us through your process. My only real question is what kind of pants are those? 😂
Hahahaha. Truewerk pants. Best work pants in the game. Check em out
@@NE_woodworks Ordered! Thanks for the tip!
Real good video. Thank you. What saw blades do you use?
Thanks. I use tenryu gold medal blades and FStool blades
I was getting tear out on dados on the rails and stiles, I switched to a dado on the table saw and that solved it. That said, I have to feed it all by hand. A power feeder on a table saw would be cool.
Nice. Power feeder is super helpful
I’m with you..always glue em’ up over size
For sure
I've been following you on Insta and really enjoying this long-form content. Curious how you handle MDF that has some bow/warp to it for doors taller than 30". i.e. Does a bowed MDF panel warp the stiles and, thus, warp the door? I'm constantly fighting ply and MDF that's not flat, and would appreciate your thoughts. Thx!
Thanks. I do make sure my pieces have f mdf are flat. Because yes if they are bowed bad enough it will affect the doors.
Appreciate it! @@NE_woodworks
i would like to see the sanding and edge breaking i feel like that is what gives the door its best look and i struggle with it. i like the cutting the doors to length at the end tho.
For sure. I will show this process at some point
Nice work Josh👌🏼 so curious do you have an expansion gap around the panel or are the stiles and rails tight on the panel? If so how to keep the panel “floating” but centered? Digging the channel man. One of these days I’ll get on here 😅
Thanks bro. I’ll send you a video on IG
Your system is pretty much the same as mine, except the third cut when you are ripping the first stile, I do on the slider too, only the last cut I do using the rip fence. I think its a bit faster, as you just line that stile to your 2" mark on the crosscut fence. Although my panel saw is 10ft, so maybe you do it this way as the stroke is too short for the full height doors?
Exactly. I was actually taught the way you’re describing. However with my slider I can’t do big doors like that. I could still do the smaller ones. I have just gotten so used to taking them to the other saw. You’re right though. Definitely a little faster.
@@NE_woodworks yeah, that makes sense, I would probably be the same, I tend to like to keep things in a system and do everything the same, even if I could do a few of them a bit faster in a different way. I think if you can keep to just doing that one set up and repeat, your cock up probability drops dramatically. I'm in the UK, and your workflow in general seems very similar to what would be like standard operating procedure over here, feels like I could be watching an English cabinet makers workshop, except for the tool brands.
English cabinet makers are my favorite follows on Instagram!
What do you do about that 16th inch backside panel reveal on drawer boxes. Do you shim the back so it won’t “squeeze in” when putting hardware on (I’ve had the center panel deform when when the gap between the box and drawer front closed up when putting on pulls, I use strips of veneer if needed now to fill the gap near the pulls).
I’ll rip some pieces of scraps for spacers and put them in when I attach the drawer fronts.
How do those tenyu blades compare to others like ridge carbide, amana, Forrest etc.
They are similar to the Forrest blades
How does the paper hold up on your drum sander as for staying on ?
My son bought the large Grizzly drum sander a few years ago and he didnt like it due to those issues.
He got no satisfaction from Grizzly other than them saying they were aware of the issue.
He sold the machine and bought a used Powermatic 36” verticle belt sander.
I have no issues with the paper staying on. Has worked great for me the last two years
I use a similar process, having 2 shapers makes all the difference in the world, seems like your process for oversizing is a lot more work, but if it works for you that's all that matters, I just make mine an 1/8 oversized then trim off a 1/16 each side. I have a video on my channel of my process that I did a few months ago if you want to see that.
Oh cool. I’ll check it out