Almost everyone of these videos on RUclips get the exhaust and intake valves backwards. Briggs uses aluminum push rod for intake and steel for exhaust. Very easy to see the color variation in the video. Also just remove intake or exhaust manifold and look to confirm. Both intake and exhaust ports are near topside of head. The intake passage goes down at an angle to bottom valve.
TY, i was completely lost and thru trial and error and some google'n.......i needed to try and learn how to adjust my valves on a Briggs and Strat 21hp zero turn. My mower was doing EXACTLY what u said and not turning over but it was working with the plug out. Great video and TY for saving me money! My Intake was 3-5 and out was 5-7....adjusted and BOOM fired off and ran on the first crank!!!!!!
I have been working on small engines for 40 years and the way to set the valves and it has never failed me, is if one valve is open all the way, then set the other valve, then rotate the engine to open the valve you just set until it is fully open and set the other valve clearance. Try it one time and you will do them all like this, It save a lot of time and guess work.
You are correct. It’s amazing how many techs still take the time to find TDC when they could just do it like you describe and be done. Lol. I’ve been twisting wrenches for 40 years. Adjust every valve that way. Lol
@@wcjcnc why listen to engineers and specifications when you can just do gess work for a couple minutes less 😂... i swear old mechanics are the worst.
@@lexus9337 When it’s done the valves are adjusted to spec and the machine runs perfectly. But you keep thinking you’re smarter than everybody else. I swear young mechanics are the worst. Noobs can’t tie their fucking shoes without a manual. Lol
@@lexus9337Just so you know, I tried this method (on the correct valves) and turned the motor over a couple of times and then did the .25 turn past TDC, measured the valves and they were spot on. Chalking one up for the old guys here. I play with alcohol engines so I like to be exact. This worked just fine. This is also not s 10k rpm engine do you can relax just a bit.
man i used to build car engines, went to school for it. so used to hydraulic lifters i didnt realize this. had a husqvarna mower for years with a 15hp kholer engine, and it had started to get a little finicky to start but ran great. well my blade clutch locked up so i bought another mower today for $125. i planned to use it and some parts off mine. well we got it home and i couldnt start it, same issue. this motor was briggs and neglected. real dirty. well you just saved me a lot of trouble man
The intake valve is on the bottom, exhaust valve is on the top.. Aside from looking at the manifolds, Another quick way to tell on these engines is the intake pushrod is aluminum, and the exhaust valve is steel.
Great video. Tomorrow I am replacing push rods on a briggs and wanted to double check procedure for adjusting valves. Valve lash moved and threw the rod and bent the crap out of it.
thanks for the video man it runs fantastic now even with a brand new battery would barely moves open up the cover and the valve is loose as hell did my adjust and bam fired right up
Hey man...nice work. Your video is great! You explain things things very well. I had no idea how to do this. Now thanx to you i believe i can handle it. Thnx again.
I had this same problem last year. 17.5hp. I did what you did in the video and it worked. No problems all winter snow plowing and cut my lawn about five times this year. Now this year same problem. I adjusted the valves the same way. Still barely turns over. Batt. is fine, valves adjusted to .003, have spark, gas, etc. :-(
Sounds like you needs a cam shaft, the compression breaker is probably broken. Its a little clip thing on the cam shaft next to the cam gear on the inside.
Fellow youtubes the intake on most these single cylinder intec engines 28 or 31 cubic inch are typic 3 thousand to 5 thousands of a inch for intake and 5 thousand to 7 thousands on exaust there is a special val lash for some 31 cubic inch engines with a Q in there model number [reamber the alum push rod is used on the intake and metal for exaust ] also check your rocker arm studs they can loosen over time causing the valves to go out of adjustment more frequently . Briggs recommends you set your valves every season but this is rarely done in pro shops[rocker arm studs tork at 100 inch pounds and valve covers as well as rocker arm jam nuts tork at 65 inch pounds] if your rocker arm studs are loose use 242 Loctite and apply to the treads that are on the stud to head surface .
TheWolverine0657 should watch Tarly fixes all videos on how to adjust valves and his tips. He’s helped me out a lot in understanding small engine repair videos. Those tips help to know from someone who has been doing repairs for 40 plus years. Take it from an aircraft mechanic who doesn’t know a lot about small engines. Good luck.
hey thanks kevin the technical info. i've been working on small engines mainly 2 smokes for about 25 years and found that just open and adjust does not work and that each engine model is different in most cases briggs having thousands of models makes each more technical. first comment =best best explanation -_-
Took me 20 minutes thank you!!! (Didnt use feeler gauge tho, just winged that shit...put her TDC and just snuggled them both up, took about 3 tries...now she fires right up thank youl
I had a mower guy bust my chops for not setting the valves in my mower, its seven years old. I explained to him that running premium synthetic oil controls the heat and wear more effectively, there is no issues with compression loss. I used to do a lot of L-Head valves that were tight, I would add .001 to the intake and .002 to the exhaust and never touch them again. This setting would boost cylinder pressure and allow for wear.
the lower valve is the intake with aluminum push rod. my 15.5 hp has the intake on the bottom and the exhaust on top. please check this and let me know. Thanks Ben
Half of youtube instruction videos get that part wrong. It got me confused at first, when my aluminium push rod broke and I was looking on how to fix it. Do your homework before posting videos!!
remember because when the engine is not running the compression release valve is in the open position, you will have to drop the pistion 1/4" past top dead center or adjusting the intake will be off as much as 0.005 thousands off from where they need to be.
Briggs ohv engines have a decompression valve on the intake side this allows it to drop a small precent of the compression by opening the intake valve sooner on the compression stroke so the starter can spin the flywheel up to speed.
Ok... If you have adjusted the valves correctly you could have a more seris problem such as came lubes wore down. This means that no mater how many times you adjust it, it wont ever work right with out replaceing the cam. You need to see how much movment the rocker arms move now as for adjustment they are usely set for a twin between 0.004 to 0.006 thousandths of an inch.
Thanks man..... best instructional video on Briggs & Stratton valves.... the push rods came out before I started watching your video.... great what you did. Great instructions... question from a fan.. Which push rod is on the top (intake) the steel or the (maybe aluminum) light one? Also mention that you adjust or check clearance on both intake and exhaust. But really great vidieo... watched it twice and will check out your other videos.
Thanks, it was the coil. I'm still starting with the solenois. I tested the ignition key switch and thats ok so it has to be the brake safety switch...I think
ive found that some times the extra bump on the cam for the compression release gets wore down from use if you adjust the valves correctally and turn over the motor slowly you should be able to see the valve move slightly out then in just before it opens all the way if it dos not its probbaly the cam that needs replaced
Bent push rods are a good sign of very poor maintance on the owner, this means that at one point the valve starts to hang up and isn't as free as it should be. this could cause bigger problems such as the valve could get stuck in the compressed position and hit the top of the piston or could cause seize to the valve guide and push it out of the way resulting in pushrod failure also. look around the area of the valve spring and check for any discolored like it got hot this means it may have bigger problems.
Check leakdown to check rings, valves and head gaskets. Remove the rocker arms and check leakdown to check valves and head gaskets. If the valves stick, remove the rockers and hit the spring with a hammer. If the rockers are real loose, the valve seat can be loose. Replace the head. Check head bolt torque. With the rocker off, remove the spring and rock the valve back and forth to check guide wear. Inject air to do this. Replace the springs because they lose tension.
Ok thanks for reading the comments before you post it's still same procedure exhaust or intake no matter the material of the pushrods so it's kinda irrelevant
This is all confusing for me to but these 2 parts mechanically do the came thing but are different the video talks about how to fix a issue using a couple tools a person can aquire to fix their own equipment not a in-depth look at how a engine runs and what does and to much info in makes a video about adjusting valves more Complicated than needed now dose it make sense
Not claiming to know it all, but I was taught the exhaust valve lines up with the exhaust pipe. Which is good to know as the variances between exhaust and intake are obviously different
@@ibdalovely1 ITS CALLED EASYSPIN, IT WAS DEVELOPED YEARS AGO SO A FEMALE COULD CRANK THE MOWER, IT IS ON THE INTAKE SIDE OF THE CAM, THE INTAKE VALVE IS INVOLVED IN MAKEING COMPRESSION, AS THE MOTOR IS TURNING FROM (ABDC) AFTER BOTTOM DEAD CENTER, THE INTAKE VALVE WILL BEGIN TO CLOSE, STOCK MOTORS WILL BEGIN TO CLOSE AFTER THIS POINT, AS THE PISTOM MOVES TOWARDS (TDC) TOP DEAD CENTER, THEN THE PISTON GETS ABOUT HALF WAY UP AT THIS POINT THE INTAKE VALVE WILL BE ALMOST CLOSED, THE (SO CALLED "BUMP" WILL HOLD THE VALVE OPEN ABOUT .007 IN ORDER TO ACT AS A COMPRESSION RELEASE, AND THE VALVE SHOULD CLOSE ALL WAY AT 1 IN FROM TDC, BRIGGS SAYS THIS RELEASE WOULD HAVE NO EFFECT ON A MOTOR AFTER IT IS TURNING 1500 RPM AND ABOVE
Thanks for the immediate response. I did what you recommended and the rod is straight and no other visible signs of wear. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
I had same problem, engine almost won't turn around like if the battery was dead, but it was the valves had to be adjusted. I also had the engine flooded with petrol, but that was probably the carburetor which i replaced the flotter pin seating or whatever.
This will come in Handy for when it comes time to replace the cylinder head on my sisters friends (Smith) Intek lawnmower as she thought she hit a rock when mowing the lawn which means she thought that the key for the magneto pulley sheared off as the backfiring through the carby & exhaust manifold is a symptom of that. I put my finger over the spark plug hole while cranking the engine where I felt absolutely no resistance against my finger, I removed the valve rocker cover only to find out that the valve collet for the exhaust valve had sheared off & the valve had dropped down into the cylinder. When I removed the cylinder head , to my surprise the valve had been pushed through the exhaust port in the cylinder head without any damage to the bottom end of the motor which means the Aluminium cylinder head must have become very hot almost to the point of melting (I have heard of someone in Australia who melted a cylinder head on a Nissan RB30ET engine which was fitted into a Holden VL Commodore,in the 1980's Nissan signed a contract with General Motors Holden to say that legally the turbocharged engine could only be factory fitted into a Holden so the Australian built Nissan R31 Skyline was never fitted with that engine). Yeah , I don't know , she traded in her old lawn mower for the Intek one & paid $1000 AUD for that one when they (the lawnmower shop) could've chased up a brand new Briggs & Stratton engine for the same price & bolted it onto the old one she had which was still good - what was wrong with the old one? My guess is the conrod snapped as she noticed a clunking sound,I thought they were going to rebuild it at the shop,that would've been the other option,I think they fail because I think she probably never changes the oil in it,I have heard of people saying Briggs & Stratton engines are a heap of crap only to find most of them never get an oil change done on them over here. Yeah & I am a Jones! Why is it that I get that a Smith is all like that over here in Australia & they're getting a bad wrap with all of that stuff? (i.e. never looking after things & getting ripped off by dodgy people left ,right & centre !!)
the ohv briggs intake valves are on the bottom and the exhaust is on top of the head smokeing after you worked on the head could be valve cover gasket leaking which is common if you don't replace the valve cover gasket and leaks on to the muffler, or if it is coming out of the muffler then it could be leaking from valve guides blown head gasket or leaking past the rings which means a rebuild in the future. I/C means it is industrial and commercial built with a cast iron sleeve in the cylinder.
I'm glad I watched your video, since I'm used to the Honda system where the nut functions as a jam nut and the torx equivalent is the actual adjuster. Does your engine have a plastic cam? I'm in disbelief at all the plastic that B and S uses in their engines, like the 6.75 HP on my snapper mower. It has a plastic carb and the only metal pieces are the screws, jet, float hinge pin, one end of needle valve and the throttle/choke plates. The genuine replacement was $40. The starter dogs and assembly are cheap plastic, but B and S does not offer a rebuild kit for this particular model, and it is a newer engine. You must purchase the entire engine cover to get the starter parts. B and S discontinues parts availability too soon and those with their classic engines may have problems finding certain parts if not kept on-hand (like you do with the extra engines), or end up getting Chinese clones, like starters, carbs, magnetos, etc..I just don't have additional room for extra engines and parts. I have a couple of shops around here that have Junkyards with old abandoned equipment I can usually depend on, but the small horizontal shaft engines are always in short supply, like the engine on my edger. Thanks for the information, and I subscribed to your channel. Not too many people even tinker around like we do. I also work on Echo equipment and service my neighbor's equipment, but B and S and Honda/Honda clones are the only two engine types I've owned. Never had a Tecumseh engine because of all the bad s**t my dad would say about them. I also tinker with cars for the past 45 years.
I have a 17.5 Briggs that does this ALL the time. The valves go out of adjustment and the engine will turn over and stop like its frozen up. Ive never had any other engine do this except for this one.
well you can try to fish it out but i would pull the head if i know somethings in the head like that its probbaly wedged between the valve and the head ive never used anything except a philips screw driver to find tdc but when you have the valve cover off its not needed you just have to adjust them when the other is fully open i didnot use anything to fine tdc in the vid
I noticed the oil is black, not good briggs uses a pressed powder matel to make the cam gear and lobes on the cam, and dirty oil acts like sand paper and grinds down the lobes causeing it to mess the timing up on the valves this will make the pushrods after adjusting them to either move later or not at all.
Hello..I am trying to repair my dad's 17.5 briggs and stratton ohv mower.. He said he was mowing and lost power..it starts but barley runs. Anyway I was adjusting the valves and noticed that that exhaust valve barely moving compared to the bottom intake valve.. Could the reason be the cam wore down? Please help with advice..thanks
it does sound like the cam is worn but the only way for certain would to be to drop the oil pan and check the cam lobes. but make sure before that far that you have set the vavles properly and that you didnt set it on the decompression valve.
yes when you adjust them correct with the plug out by hand turn over the engine and look at the exhaust valve it should move out slightly like 1-2 mm and back in then out to fully open the valve the lobe can wear down and not open fully causing it to not allow it to crank fast enough or not at all causing the no start or hard start
thank you for this video. It is a great help. I'm hoping you can help some more. I have readjusted my valves on a 16.5 B&S, twice now, a few days apart. On both occasions I seem to get it to work fine but then after starting the engine a few times it seems to slip out of adjustment. I just readjusted per your advice and tested it with the plug in but wire off and still with the valve cover off. It spun like a top. I was so happy. After I put it all back together I hit starter and it fired. Excited I shut it down and then tried it again. This time it stumbled on the compression, but then kicked over and fired up. great. worried about the stumble I tried it again. NO GO. it stuck just like before adjustment. Any ideas?
i believe i have oil seeping from my rocker cover gasket. i`m going to change it myself, first time doing this. can i change the gasket and not have to worry about the vales. makes me nervous because i`ve never adjusted valves and really just want to change that gasket and go
i dont give the sizes on purpose due to differences in engines its my channel and for the moment this video that i talk to much in has 49132 views and counting thanks for the view though
Very good and explained video! The question is you pointing we should follow the manufacturer settings! But is so hard to find those seething, the question is do you know any site who cobe the spect from most manufacturers engine? Thank you much appreciate it
This is more about procedure of adjustment than anything I think some people have posted the sizes they have used in the comments I haven't messed with mowers in so long this video just sits here
i have a lawnmower and mine doesnt have those adjustment on them where yuou use that start to tighten or loosen it its jsut a stright bolt but a nut on the end theres no place for a screwdriver
If it does not have those adjustments then then they are non-adjustable there are some that are like the old v8s and you tighten it down with the rocker arm nut
@@ibdalovely1 if i tighten them too much then the mower doesnt start..ill giv eit another try i cant seem to give up on mowers i try to fix idk why ive had this thing awhile..i can get it to turn over but then the nuts gradually come loose and the arms come off maybe ill just screw the nuts down tight but agina then it doesnt start at all
Ooooookay.....The Best way to get the right gap is to turn the adjustment screw with your fingers with the gauge in place until you feel it touch....lock it down ....... it's set!
Great video and thanks. I have a Briggs and stratt 19.5 intek. Starts fine on initial contact but after motor warms up I don't have the option of shutting her off because she won't refire until completely cooled down. Any advise?
So tweaking the top/intake fixed the lethargic start up. But....the damn exhaust/bottom valve keeps coming loose and the spring seat cap keeps coming off and the engine won’t restart as it needs to be readjusted. Hope it’s not ruined because that bottom push rod sometimes doesn’t even move when I’m turning by hand the piston. Like it’s not seated and then I find TDC + 1/4 turn to .009 clearance...then it runs fine to that bottom valve bounces loose again. May try to go .002 and see
First off awesome video, secondly i just did this and my bottom valve was too tight i adjusted to specs for my mower and still the same results. It will start i manually spin flywheel with my hands. Any suggestions
I know this issue has already been raised in the comments, and yes the easy way to check which valve is which is that the aluminum pushrod is for intake and steel is for exhaust. However I just read in one comment that it doesn’t matter as it’s the same procedure for both. Well yes it is the same “procedure “ but the clearances for the exhaust and intake are not always the same , so IT DOES matter and you need to know if you’re adjusting the Exhaust or the intake valve clearance. On my engine the Briggs spec is .003-.005 for the intake and .005-.007 for the Exhaust, so be careful and make sure you do it right . Will the engine run if you do it backwards, sure , but it won’t be “right”👍
Thanks for that great job,i have a honda generator model EU3000is,she have that problem, I will try to do it according with instructions of your video, hopefully be great, just want to know about the valve gap clearan the exhaust valve 00 ? And gap clearance the intake 00? I need your instructions for that, Thanks
Very good i noticed that you didn't have to use a torque wrench or a crow wench to do this job im working a scott push mowers it's a Tecumseh the valves clearance needs to be set on one video i seen this guy use a crow foot wench and a torque wrench to adjust the valves and you did yours the normal way without all the complicated tools
Hi,I have a Craftsman 4 years old Riding mower 21 hp Briggs & stratton engine . Motor hard to turn with starter ,new starter & battery--It make 3/4 turn & if if make 1 to 2 turn start right up. When starter can not turn it heat up ,without Spark plug engine move ok , I checked the valve clearance .004 & .006 -- Do you think it is a Compression release valve ,how I can be sure of that. Please help ,what other thing it could be?
have a 140cc b&s push mower drained fuel and replaced replaced and properly gapped plug to .30". adjusted coil gap to .010". found valves very loose inspected push rods reinstalled rockers and adjusted to .005" don't know if specks are correct or not any help would be appreciated thanks.
I have a 16hp twin2 briggs and stratton. the starter is good. the motor spins well. It sounds like the end when at first yours didn't start. You gave it gas it look like but It turns over smooth but not catching. The carb is rebuilt new solenoid. can there be any other electrical problems or if it turns and not catching is it most likely the valve? . It was hard to turn over before I took off the starter and replaced the gear and before I put the starter back on, I manually turned the top of the engine till it moved smooth. Once the starter went back on it spins great but still no start.
could be something electrical or the coil has went bad you can pull the engine shroud off and the gas line so it wont run long their should be 1 wire going to the coil unhook that and it will run if the coil is good if not its the coil ive got a vid up of a mtd with a kholer i replaced the coil in they are a easy replacement
Hi dear thanks for this video! Just l would like to know about the generator eu 3000is, how much is the clearance set of exhaust valve NO :00 ? And also the clearance set intake NO:00 ? If you send me a video or an instruction I will be very happy for that, thanks
I have a honda gx240 8hp with OHV. Its an older pressure washer from 1989. I looked up the specs and intake=.15mm and exhaust=.2mm. The intake valve was already to spec. The exhaust valve tappet was way in, it has no play, no gap or anything. The motor was at TDC. When i put the exhaust tappet at .2mm clearance the engine became difficult to turn over, almost impossible. When i put the exhaust valve back in to where it was it works ok, but is hard to start and runs a little rough. Why is the exhaust valve tappet needing to be pushed way in at TDC?
Double check method re Valve setting. You should be able to start your engine with some Starting Fluid if your fuel pump is pumping clean fuel and you have no water in carb bowl. Drain and clean carb bowl just a little water will keep it from starting. Are plugs good, cylinder dried of any remnant water droplets. If you have spark, can get it to start, you will know if your valves are correct,
+Bill Jones This guy has it wrong. The bottom valve is the intake, and the top is the exhaust. One way to tell is the push rod for the intake is aluminum. The exhaust push rod is steel. Look into the opening where the exhaust pipe is attached to the head. You will see the top of the valve. Follow the stem through the head to the other end of the valve where it touches the rocker. There you have it.
I have a very oðd problem in 12.0 hv bs 289707, intake valve smashes the sparkplug, However motor starts and runs normal when you use shorter plug😀 🤔I have never adjusted valves so i have to look these videos. Probably there must be aomething loose or broken...
i havent dug to far into the internals on any motor but i would pull the head on that side and check dose it run and have spark on that side could be a stuck valve or if its a ohv a bent pushrod
Almost everyone of these videos on RUclips get the exhaust and intake valves backwards. Briggs uses aluminum push rod for intake and steel for exhaust. Very easy to see the color variation in the video. Also just remove intake or exhaust manifold and look to confirm. Both intake and exhaust ports are near topside of head. The intake passage goes down at an angle to bottom valve.
I was gonna say the same thing.
I realize I am quite off topic but does anybody know a good site to stream newly released movies online ?
@Pierce Edwin Flixportal xD
@Luciano Harold Thank you, I went there and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) I really appreciate it !
@Pierce Edwin You are welcome xD
I was so ready just to buy another mower and you just answered the questions that I had. Thanks for the great Video
TY, i was completely lost and thru trial and error and some google'n.......i needed to try and learn how to adjust my valves on a Briggs and Strat 21hp zero turn. My mower was doing EXACTLY what u said and not turning over but it was working with the plug out. Great video and TY for saving me money! My Intake was 3-5 and out was 5-7....adjusted and BOOM fired off and ran on the first crank!!!!!!
cznightrider
I have been working on small engines for 40 years and the way to set the valves and it has never failed me, is if one valve is open all the way, then set the other valve, then rotate the engine to open the valve you just set until it is fully open and set the other valve clearance. Try it one time and you will do them all like this, It save a lot of time and guess work.
I'll try that. Thx
You are correct. It’s amazing how many techs still take the time to find TDC when they could just do it like you describe and be done. Lol. I’ve been twisting wrenches for 40 years. Adjust every valve that way. Lol
@@wcjcnc why listen to engineers and specifications when you can just do gess work for a couple minutes less 😂... i swear old mechanics are the worst.
@@lexus9337 When it’s done the valves are adjusted to spec and the machine runs perfectly. But you keep thinking you’re smarter than everybody else. I swear young mechanics are the worst. Noobs can’t tie their fucking shoes without a manual. Lol
@@lexus9337Just so you know, I tried this method (on the correct valves) and turned the motor over a couple of times and then did the .25 turn past TDC, measured the valves and they were spot on. Chalking one up for the old guys here. I play with alcohol engines so I like to be exact. This worked just fine. This is also not s 10k rpm engine do you can relax just a bit.
man i used to build car engines, went to school for it. so used to hydraulic lifters i didnt realize this. had a husqvarna mower for years with a 15hp kholer engine, and it had started to get a little finicky to start but ran great. well my blade clutch locked up so i bought another mower today for $125. i planned to use it and some parts off mine. well we got it home and i couldnt start it, same issue. this motor was briggs and neglected. real dirty. well you just saved me a lot of trouble man
I have the same motor with the same problem, followed your vid and it runs great again. Thanks, you saved me a lot of money.
The intake valve is on the bottom, exhaust valve is on the top.. Aside from looking at the manifolds, Another quick way to tell on these engines is the intake pushrod is aluminum, and the exhaust valve is steel.
right, don't mix them up.
My new lawn tractor was making a rattling noise, after adjusting the valves, it's quiet! thanks for the video
Great video. Tomorrow I am replacing push rods on a briggs and wanted to double check procedure for adjusting valves. Valve lash moved and threw the rod and bent the crap out of it.
followed instructions and fixed my tractor. Thank you.
This helped me with my lawnmower today... thank you for sharing this
thanks for the video man it runs fantastic now even with a brand new battery would barely moves open up the cover and the valve is loose as hell did my adjust and bam fired right up
Great video. Good explanation of rocker arm adjustment. Thanks
this this guy gets it wooooooooooohooooo
Hey man...nice work. Your video is great! You explain things things very well. I had no idea how to do this. Now thanx to you i believe i can handle it. Thnx again.
I had this same problem last year. 17.5hp. I did what you did in the video and it worked. No problems all winter snow plowing and cut my lawn about five times this year. Now this year same problem. I adjusted the valves the same way. Still barely turns over. Batt. is fine, valves adjusted to .003, have spark, gas, etc. :-(
Sounds like you needs a cam shaft, the compression breaker is probably broken. Its a little clip thing on the cam shaft next to the cam gear on the inside.
Actually i just reset the valves again and got a new battery. No problems now. My battery was 3 years old. Thank you though.
Fellow youtubes the intake on most these single cylinder intec engines 28 or 31 cubic inch are typic 3 thousand to 5 thousands of a inch for intake and 5 thousand to 7 thousands on exaust there is a special val lash for some 31 cubic inch engines with a Q in there model number [reamber the alum push rod is used on the intake and metal for exaust ] also check your rocker arm studs they can loosen over time causing the valves to go out of adjustment more frequently . Briggs recommends you set your valves every season but this is rarely done in pro shops[rocker arm studs tork at 100 inch pounds and valve covers as well as rocker arm jam nuts tork at 65 inch pounds] if your rocker arm studs are loose use 242 Loctite and apply to the treads that are on the stud to head surface .
Kevin Bolin i did what the video said now my exhaust valve is pierced through the side of the head
TheWolverine0657 should watch Tarly fixes all videos on how to adjust valves and his tips. He’s helped me out a lot in understanding small engine repair videos. Those tips help to know from someone who has been doing repairs for 40 plus years. Take it from an aircraft mechanic who doesn’t know a lot about small engines. Good luck.
How do you know where to look? Cant find anywhere..i have model 44N677. Thank you.
hey thanks kevin the technical info. i've been working on small engines mainly 2 smokes for about 25 years and found that just open and adjust does not work and that each engine model is different in most cases briggs having thousands of models makes each more technical. first comment =best best explanation -_-
That s a 10 and 15 in metric.
good job of explaining the problems with blown headgaskets
TY u saved my ass , didn’t have feeler gage but tightened exhaust and f’er fired right up!
Thanks so much. Replaced head gasket and would fire, but not start. Re-adjusted valves and it started right up.
Took me 20 minutes thank you!!! (Didnt use feeler gauge tho, just winged that shit...put her TDC and just snuggled them both up, took about 3 tries...now she fires right up thank youl
thanks a lot! been searching for days an this is the only one that helps
Just a note....The bottom is the Intake valve and has a Aluminum push rod and the top is the Exhaust with a steel push rod.,
xbin87116
Christ. This bone head is backward
replace the aluminum one with seal, it won't hurt anything
xbin87116 I can assure you that the intake valve is on the top on mine.
What would happen if you just put two steel push rods in it?
Good video. I just adjusted mine that had the same problem basically. It is like it is brand new again, starts right up. Thanks
I had a mower guy bust my chops for not setting the valves in my mower, its seven years old. I explained to him that running premium synthetic oil controls the heat and wear more effectively, there is no issues with compression loss. I used to do a lot of L-Head valves that were tight, I would add .001 to the intake and .002 to the exhaust and never touch them again. This setting would boost cylinder pressure and allow for wear.
the lower valve is the intake with aluminum push rod. my 15.5 hp has the intake on the bottom and the exhaust on top. please check this and let me know. Thanks Ben
Half of youtube instruction videos get that part wrong. It got me confused at first, when my aluminium push rod broke and I was looking on how to fix it. Do your homework before posting videos!!
the intake valve on single cylinders is located on the bottom and use the alumin rod the exhaust uses a steel rod
Thanks for the good input man appreciate it
remember because when the engine is not running the compression release valve is in the open position, you will have to drop the pistion 1/4" past top dead center or adjusting the intake will be off as much as 0.005 thousands off from where they need to be.
thanks a lot for the video...I fixed mine without a problem. ..it started right away...
Briggs ohv engines have a decompression valve on the intake side this allows it to drop a small precent of the compression by opening the intake valve sooner on the compression stroke so the starter can spin the flywheel up to speed.
Ok... If you have adjusted the valves correctly you could have a more seris problem such as came lubes wore down. This means that no mater how many times you adjust it, it wont ever work right with out replaceing the cam.
You need to see how much movment the rocker arms move now as for adjustment they are usely set for a twin between 0.004 to 0.006 thousandths of an inch.
Thanks man this video was very helpful
Thanks man..... best instructional video on Briggs & Stratton valves.... the push rods came out before I started watching your video.... great what you did. Great instructions... question from a fan.. Which push rod is on the top (intake) the steel or the (maybe aluminum) light one? Also mention that you adjust or check clearance on both intake and exhaust. But really great vidieo... watched it twice and will check out your other videos.
Very good video , and informative as well . Thumbs up , mate
Thanks, it was the coil. I'm still starting with the solenois. I tested the ignition key switch and thats ok so it has to be the brake safety switch...I think
Thanks brother. This video is exactly what I needed and fixed mower. Cheers man
Thanks for the really informative video!
Thanx à million for this video. Just to bad i didnt see IT before i bought à new startmotor because i thought that was the problem.
Once your at TDC you then , keep moving in the same direction only moving the piston a 1/4 in ,,and VERY important that your engine be DEAD COLD !!
ive found that some times the extra bump on the cam for the compression release gets wore down from use if you adjust the valves correctally and turn over the motor slowly you should be able to see the valve move slightly out then in just before it opens all the way if it dos not its probbaly the cam that needs replaced
i did that on purpose because on some mowers are different and you should go by the manufactures specs but .004 thousands is what i used on both sides
Thank you for the lesson
Bent push rods are a good sign of very poor maintance on the owner, this means that at one point the valve starts to hang up and isn't as free as it should be. this could cause bigger problems such as the valve could get stuck in the compressed position and hit the top of the piston or could cause seize to the valve guide and push it out of the way resulting in pushrod failure also. look around the area of the valve spring and check for any discolored like it got hot this means it may have bigger problems.
great additional info from your experience, thanks for sharing
Check leakdown to check rings, valves and head gaskets. Remove the rocker arms and check leakdown to check valves and head gaskets. If the valves stick, remove the rockers and hit the spring with a hammer. If the rockers are real loose, the valve seat can be loose. Replace the head. Check head bolt torque. With the rocker off, remove the spring and rock the valve back and forth to check guide wear. Inject air to do this. Replace the springs because they lose tension.
thanks for my first comment from France glad it worked for ya
Great video definitely helped thanks so much
The intake pushrod on OHV engines from Briggs & Stratton is made out of Aluminum. The valve you adjusted was the intake valve. Not the exhaust valve
Ok thanks for reading the comments before you post it's still same procedure exhaust or intake no matter the material of the pushrods so it's kinda irrelevant
I know it’s irrelevant but confusing when you hear different things about which is the exhaust and which is intake
This is all confusing for me to but these 2 parts mechanically do the came thing but are different the video talks about how to fix a issue using a couple tools a person can aquire to fix their own equipment not a in-depth look at how a engine runs and what does and to much info in makes a video about adjusting valves more Complicated than needed now dose it make sense
Not claiming to know it all, but I was taught the exhaust valve lines up with the exhaust pipe. Which is good to know as the variances between exhaust and intake are obviously different
@@ibdalovely1 ITS CALLED EASYSPIN, IT WAS DEVELOPED YEARS AGO SO A FEMALE COULD CRANK THE MOWER, IT IS ON THE INTAKE SIDE OF THE CAM, THE INTAKE VALVE IS INVOLVED IN MAKEING COMPRESSION, AS THE MOTOR IS TURNING FROM (ABDC) AFTER BOTTOM DEAD CENTER, THE INTAKE VALVE WILL BEGIN TO CLOSE, STOCK MOTORS WILL BEGIN TO CLOSE AFTER THIS POINT, AS THE PISTOM MOVES TOWARDS (TDC) TOP DEAD CENTER, THEN THE PISTON GETS ABOUT HALF WAY UP AT THIS POINT THE INTAKE VALVE WILL BE ALMOST CLOSED, THE (SO CALLED "BUMP" WILL HOLD THE VALVE OPEN ABOUT .007 IN ORDER TO ACT AS A COMPRESSION RELEASE, AND THE VALVE SHOULD CLOSE ALL WAY AT 1 IN FROM TDC, BRIGGS SAYS THIS RELEASE WOULD HAVE NO EFFECT ON A MOTOR AFTER IT IS TURNING 1500 RPM AND ABOVE
Thanks for the immediate response. I did what you recommended and the rod is straight and no other visible signs of wear. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.
I had same problem, engine almost won't turn around like if the battery was dead, but it was the valves had to be adjusted. I also had the engine flooded with petrol, but that was probably the carburetor which i replaced the flotter pin seating or whatever.
ive fixed many mowers with a valve adjustment and a carb clean bet it runs pretty good now
This will come in Handy for when it comes time to replace the cylinder head on my sisters friends (Smith) Intek lawnmower as she thought she hit a rock when mowing the lawn which means she thought that the key for the magneto pulley sheared off as the backfiring through the carby & exhaust manifold is a symptom of that.
I put my finger over the spark plug hole while cranking the engine where I felt absolutely no resistance against my finger, I removed the valve rocker cover only to find out that the valve collet for the exhaust valve had sheared off & the valve had dropped down into the cylinder.
When I removed the cylinder head , to my surprise the valve had been pushed through the exhaust port in the cylinder head without any damage to the bottom end of the motor which means the Aluminium cylinder head must have become very hot almost to the point of melting (I have heard of someone in Australia who melted a cylinder head on a Nissan RB30ET engine which was fitted into a Holden VL Commodore,in the 1980's Nissan signed a contract with General Motors Holden to say that legally the turbocharged engine could only be factory fitted into a Holden so the Australian built Nissan R31 Skyline was never fitted with that engine).
Yeah , I don't know , she traded in her old lawn mower for the Intek one & paid $1000 AUD for that one when they (the lawnmower shop) could've chased up a brand new Briggs & Stratton engine for the same price & bolted it onto the old one she had which was still good - what was wrong with the old one?
My guess is the conrod snapped as she noticed a clunking sound,I thought they were going to rebuild it at the shop,that would've been the other option,I think they fail because I think she probably never changes the oil in it,I have heard of people saying Briggs & Stratton engines are a heap of crap only to find most of them never get an oil change done on them over here.
Yeah & I am a Jones! Why is it that I get that a Smith is all like that over here in Australia & they're getting a bad wrap with all of that stuff? (i.e. never looking after things & getting ripped off by dodgy people left ,right & centre !!)
Thank this will save me money!
the ohv briggs intake valves are on the bottom and the exhaust is on top of the head
smokeing after you worked on the head could be valve cover gasket leaking which is common if you don't replace the valve cover gasket and leaks on to the muffler, or if it is coming out of the muffler then it could be leaking from valve guides blown head gasket or leaking past the rings which means a rebuild in the future. I/C means it is industrial and commercial built with a cast iron sleeve in the cylinder.
The silver or the aluminum push rod is the intake on ALL OVERHEAD VALVES
I'm glad I watched your video, since I'm used to the Honda system where the nut functions as a jam nut and the torx equivalent is the actual adjuster. Does your engine have a plastic cam? I'm in disbelief at all the plastic that B and S uses in their engines, like the 6.75 HP on my snapper mower. It has a plastic carb and the only metal pieces are the screws, jet, float hinge pin, one end of needle valve and the throttle/choke plates. The genuine replacement was $40. The starter dogs and assembly are cheap plastic, but B and S does not offer a rebuild kit for this particular model, and it is a newer engine. You must purchase the entire engine cover to get the starter parts. B and S discontinues parts availability too soon and those with their classic engines may have problems finding certain parts if not kept on-hand (like you do with the extra engines), or end up getting Chinese clones, like starters, carbs, magnetos, etc..I just don't have additional room for extra engines and parts. I have a couple of shops around here that have Junkyards with old abandoned equipment I can usually depend on, but the small horizontal shaft engines are always in short supply, like the engine on my edger. Thanks for the information, and I subscribed to your channel. Not too many people even tinker around like we do. I also work on Echo equipment and service my neighbor's equipment, but B and S and Honda/Honda clones are the only two engine types I've owned. Never had a Tecumseh engine because of all the bad s**t my dad would say about them. I also tinker with cars for the past 45 years.
I have a 17.5 Briggs that does this ALL the time. The valves go out of adjustment and the engine will turn over and stop like its frozen up. Ive never had any other engine do this except for this one.
well you can try to fish it out but i would pull the head if i know somethings in the head like that its probbaly wedged between the valve and the head ive never used anything except a philips screw driver to find tdc but when you have the valve cover off its not needed you just have to adjust them when the other is fully open i didnot use anything to fine tdc in the vid
I noticed the oil is black, not good briggs uses a pressed powder matel to make the cam gear and lobes on the cam, and dirty oil acts like sand paper and grinds down the lobes causeing it to mess the timing up on the valves this will make the pushrods after adjusting them to either move later or not at all.
Hello..I am trying to repair my dad's 17.5 briggs and stratton ohv mower.. He said he was mowing and lost power..it starts but barley runs. Anyway I was adjusting the valves and noticed that that exhaust valve barely moving compared to the bottom intake valve.. Could the reason be the cam wore down? Please help with advice..thanks
it does sound like the cam is worn but the only way for certain would to be to drop the oil pan and check the cam lobes. but make sure before that far that you have set the vavles properly and that you didnt set it on the decompression valve.
yes when you adjust them correct with the plug out by hand turn over the engine and look at the exhaust valve it should move out slightly like 1-2 mm and back in then out to fully open the valve the lobe can wear down and not open fully causing it to not allow it to crank fast enough or not at all causing the no start or hard start
Thanks for the correct lash kevin
Thanks dude thought it was like that but now I know
thank you for this video. It is a great help. I'm hoping you can help some more. I have readjusted my valves on a 16.5 B&S, twice now, a few days apart. On both occasions I seem to get it to work fine but then after starting the engine a few times it seems to slip out of adjustment. I just readjusted per your advice and tested it with the plug in but wire off and still with the valve cover off. It spun like a top. I was so happy. After I put it all back together I hit starter and it fired. Excited I shut it down and then tried it again. This time it stumbled on the compression, but then kicked over and fired up. great. worried about the stumble I tried it again. NO GO. it stuck just like before adjustment. Any ideas?
Thank You. This Video helped out a whole lot.
i believe i have oil seeping from my rocker cover gasket. i`m going to change it myself, first time doing this. can i change the gasket and not have to worry about the vales. makes me nervous because i`ve never adjusted valves and really just want to change that gasket and go
i dont give the sizes on purpose due to differences in engines its my channel and for the moment this video that i talk to much in has 49132 views and counting thanks for the view though
629k and counting
815k
TOOK ME 2 CLICKS TO FIGURE OUT YOU DIDNT KNOW WHAT YOU WERE TALKING ABOUT, (BUMP ON EXHAUST VALVE) YOUR WELCOMBE FOR THE VIEW
The exhaust is on top intake on bottom
Thanks, this helped greatly
Very good and explained video! The question is you pointing we should follow the manufacturer settings! But is so hard to find those seething, the question is do you know any site who cobe the spect from most manufacturers engine? Thank you much appreciate it
This is more about procedure of adjustment than anything I think some people have posted the sizes they have used in the comments I haven't messed with mowers in so long this video just sits here
i have a lawnmower and mine doesnt have those adjustment on them where yuou use that start to tighten or loosen it its jsut a stright bolt but a nut on the end theres no place for a screwdriver
If it does not have those adjustments then then they are non-adjustable there are some that are like the old v8s and you tighten it down with the rocker arm nut
@@ibdalovely1 if i tighten them too much then the mower doesnt start..ill giv eit another try i cant seem to give up on mowers i try to fix idk why ive had this thing awhile..i can get it to turn over but then the nuts gradually come loose and the arms come off maybe ill just screw the nuts down tight but agina then it doesnt start at all
Ooooookay.....The Best way to get the right gap is to turn the adjustment screw with your fingers with the gauge in place until you feel it touch....lock it down ....... it's set!
Awesome video, thanks!
thank you very much.
this is perfect mine is the same thanks
Great video and thanks. I have a Briggs and stratt 19.5 intek. Starts fine on initial contact but after motor warms up I don't have the option of shutting her off because she won't refire until completely cooled down. Any advise?
So tweaking the top/intake fixed the lethargic start up. But....the damn exhaust/bottom valve keeps coming loose and the spring seat cap keeps coming off and the engine won’t restart as it needs to be readjusted. Hope it’s not ruined because that bottom push rod sometimes doesn’t even move when I’m turning by hand the piston. Like it’s not seated and then I find TDC + 1/4 turn to .009 clearance...then it runs fine to that bottom valve bounces loose again. May try to go .002 and see
It's the intake valve the compression release
First off awesome video, secondly i just did this and my bottom valve was too tight i adjusted to specs for my mower and still the same results. It will start i manually spin flywheel with my hands. Any suggestions
I know this issue has already been raised in the comments, and yes the easy way to check which valve is which is that the aluminum pushrod is for intake and steel is for exhaust.
However I just read in one comment that it doesn’t matter as it’s the same procedure for both. Well yes it is the same “procedure “ but the clearances for the exhaust and intake are not always the same , so IT DOES matter and you need to know if you’re adjusting the Exhaust or the intake valve clearance.
On my engine the Briggs spec is .003-.005 for the intake and .005-.007 for the Exhaust, so be careful and make sure you do it right .
Will the engine run if you do it backwards, sure , but it won’t be “right”👍
I think I will go with .005 lol
Thanks for that great job,i have a honda generator model EU3000is,she have that problem, I will try to do it according with instructions of your video, hopefully be great, just want to know about the valve gap clearan the exhaust valve 00 ? And gap clearance the intake 00? I need your instructions for that,
Thanks
Very good i noticed that you didn't have to use a torque wrench or a crow wench to do this job im working a scott push mowers it's a Tecumseh the valves clearance needs to be set on one video i seen this guy use a crow foot wench and a torque wrench to adjust the valves and you did yours the normal way without all the complicated tools
Nice easy fix. Good job.
Hi,I have a Craftsman 4 years old Riding mower 21 hp Briggs & stratton engine . Motor hard to turn with starter ,new starter & battery--It make 3/4 turn & if if make 1 to 2 turn start right up. When starter can not turn it heat up ,without Spark plug engine move ok , I checked the valve clearance .004 & .006 -- Do you think it is a Compression release valve ,how I can be sure of that. Please help ,what other thing it could be?
I think another symptom is the cord ripping back out of your hand when you pull the cord.
have a 140cc b&s push mower drained fuel and replaced replaced and properly gapped plug to .30". adjusted coil gap to .010". found valves very loose inspected push rods reinstalled rockers and adjusted to .005" don't know if specks are correct or not any help would be appreciated thanks.
I have a 16hp twin2 briggs and stratton. the starter is good. the motor spins well. It sounds like the end when at first yours didn't start. You gave it gas it look like but It turns over smooth but not catching. The carb is rebuilt new solenoid. can there be any other electrical problems or if it turns and not catching is it most likely the valve? . It was hard to turn over before I took off the starter and replaced the gear and before I put the starter back on, I manually turned the top of the engine till it moved smooth. Once the starter went back on it spins great but still no start.
could be something electrical or the coil has went bad you can pull the engine shroud off and the gas line so it wont run long their should be 1 wire going to the coil unhook that and it will run if the coil is good if not its the coil ive got a vid up of a mtd with a kholer i replaced the coil in they are a easy replacement
Hi dear thanks for this video!
Just l would like to know about the generator eu 3000is, how much is the clearance set of exhaust valve NO :00 ?
And also the clearance set intake NO:00 ?
If you send me a video or an instruction I will be very happy for that, thanks
thanks its a really easy process come look at my other channel im doing just how tos in it
Thanx
Appreciate the video, thanks
thanks! really appreciate it :D
I have a honda gx240 8hp with OHV. Its an older pressure washer from 1989. I looked up the specs and intake=.15mm and exhaust=.2mm. The intake valve was already to spec. The exhaust valve tappet was way in, it has no play, no gap or anything. The motor was at TDC. When i put the exhaust tappet at .2mm clearance the engine became difficult to turn over, almost impossible. When i put the exhaust valve back in to where it was it works ok, but is hard to start and runs a little rough. Why is the exhaust valve tappet needing to be pushed way in at TDC?
I have adjusted my valves to the suggested manufacturer settings and still hard starts. Changed oil take sure and cleaned the carb. Any ideas
Double check method re Valve setting. You should be able to start your engine with some Starting Fluid if your fuel pump is pumping clean fuel and you have no water in carb bowl. Drain and clean carb bowl just a little water will keep it from starting. Are plugs good, cylinder dried of any remnant water droplets. If you have spark, can get it to start, you will know if your valves are correct,
also try to adjust your air gap
What gaps did you set the tappets at (in mm if possible)?
yes it fired right up
how do you tell the difference between the intake and exhaust rocker?
+Bill Jones This guy has it wrong. The bottom valve is the intake, and the top is the exhaust. One way to tell is the push rod for the intake is aluminum. The exhaust push rod is steel. Look into the opening where the exhaust pipe is attached to the head. You will see the top of the valve. Follow the stem through the head to the other end of the valve where it touches the rocker. There you have it.
thank you for the info. very helpful.
Bill Jones a
fajn vysvětlený...
thanks
I have a very oðd problem in 12.0 hv bs 289707, intake valve smashes the sparkplug, However motor starts and runs normal when you use shorter plug😀 🤔I have never adjusted valves so i have to look these videos.
Probably there must be aomething loose or broken...
i havent dug to far into the internals on any motor but i would pull the head on that side and check dose it run and have spark on that side could be a stuck valve or if its a ohv a bent pushrod
Perfect !! Thank you!!
what the valve lash on a 140 cc series e b&s engine
Adjust it to a tight four thousandths and it should be good for you okay
Great video! I successfully adjusted the valves, but it’s still just cranking. Any ideas what the issue could be?
could be a couple things a bad switch or if it has one the solenoid on the carb can do that to