It is always refreshing to get advice from someone who not only can do the work, but can communicate what he is doing effectively. Major props Bro! Definitely a fan here!
Hey bud, great video as usual. Keep up the good work. I hate to be “that guy”, but I have to point something out. With the truck supported on the axles, when you adjust the panhard bar, the chassis will move side to side, not the axle, since the axle is essentially fixed to the jack stands/floor. This will end up throwing off your chassis centerline. I think it would work to square the axles to the chassis, Mark the floor with the axle center, and then adjust the chassis side to side. I’m not sure how well I’m explaining it, but it would just be a slight modification in the procedure. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos, they are super helpful and great entertainment.
I like watching your videos because you simplify things. I always go online and read forumns and what bit before projects. I almost always see everyone bitching and moaning about how hard something is. I always start with an attitude of, "oh come on. It cant be that hard." I have been right all but one time.
I couldn't agree more. People complain because they dont have a good bearing of what "hard" is. I think everyone needs to spend the first year after high school doing a Job that involves a shovel. After digging outside for a year they wont bitch about the inconvenient placement of a thermostat lol. It's all perspective 👍
You are the best! Easy to understand, the best thing is that you have the experience in your jeep! and you know it works! I don't miss a single video, Greetings from Venezuela
Dirt Lifestyle your definitely my favorite now! You make it easier and you make it work and you demonstrate options as you do it! I identify with this!
Caster measurement. I have been contemplating a simple tool to help with that pesky ball joint nut. A short piece of pipe, tube or conduit cut to a precise length, lets say two inches. then weld (a couple good tacks) a flat plate to one end. Confirm it is square! Slip this "new tool" over the nut resting it on the flat, then you have a nice flat spot on the top to take measurements from. I took all the centering measurements, marked them on the axles with a sharpie, adjusted away till happy. Painted it all up. Where are the marks now!?!?! Center punch, smack it with a chisel. whatever but make a permanent mark for the NEXT time you do an alignment! Great video Nate! SEEEEE people it's not rocket science!
Cant thank you enough for this video. I ve been fighting driveability issues with my axle swapped XJ for years, picked up the laser levels and followed your procedures and now it finally drives great. Keep up the great content Nate.
I got death wobble when I changed out my heim joints and completely forgot to measure before, went to a shop to get a allignment and didn’t work. Went to a local 4x4 shop to try to figure out what was causing my death wobble. They wanted to charge $1300 to “fix it”. I ended up doing a tape measure allignment and it has never drove better. Thank you so much.
Nate, I am new to Jeep (just got a Cherry 40K mile TJ and putting a full Currie set up on it) and I have found your content to be super helpful and easy to understand. Many thanks!
Great explanation. I followed this process after installing adjustable control arms and track bars. Test drove afterwards with zero death wobble and steers perfectly with NO Steering stabilizer !
Just wanted to show some well deserved love in the comments section. Nate, you are a true fabricator brother, love the tips and tricks, love the content. So happy you were able to turn in your van keys and provide for your family by doing what you obviously love doing! Keep it crawlin brotha! -wheeling punn:)
I do professional alignments on high-performance cars and production-based race cars for a living. But I use a $12000 machine and lift. what you explained is right on the money. one of the biggest performance upgrades I tell my customers is alignment and tires because your car/truck/jeep does not come from the factory perfectly aligned to there specs. Great video
I never thought about using straight edges on the rotors, I like that idea because I do not the woman to help me measure the tires (I do not have a tram gauge). Up until now I would bend the end of a 16d to about 45 and hold it with vice grips while the woman spins the wheel. I get a good very sharp line to measure the front of tire and rear and adjust to 1/16 - 1/8. I square front and rear axles by measuring the rims, usually the rear edge of the rear tire to the rear edge of the front tire to get an accurate center - center after finding a common measuring hole on the frame. I have to say you are almost as good as me. You make sense as opposed to other youtubes.
Awesome video. It's also wild how perfect the timing is for this to be uploaded, when finally I have a fully adjustable suspension on the way. I'll be using this as a reference for a while, thank you! I'll be on the lookout for your take on pinion angle.
@@DirtLifestyle When I commented on this I was new to the channel at the time, and I'm glad I looked at your previous videos to find some great info on pinion angle that you've already explained. It's tough as a JK owner to sometimes listen to videos based on different Wrangler generations, or other brand vehicles in general since I'm not able to predict if the majority of information shared will apply to my situation, but your TJ stretch episode series was awesome to follow. Watching those videos wouldn't require the viewer to have a TJ in order to learn a whole lot about their own rig. It applies universally in many ways. Rant over, again thanks for your content.
Using your techniques and 2 lasers helped align a budies jeep axles, jeep drives perfectly. This was a brand new jeep, that was off from factory. Not a lot, but enough to make it drive funny.
Amazing video man! I have been trying to get my jeep ('97 TJ w/ Rubicon 4" super flex lift) aligned since the first day I got it and no one has been able to get it right. After this video, $100 in tools, and some patience, I was able to align my jeep myself and it is perfect! Thank you so much for putting this type of content out there.
Home run! Another great video. That's the best explanation of "how to" for an alignment I've seen. Also agree. Caster is probably the worst culprit to cause death wobble, especially with modified suspension. Can't wait til the next vid.🤙
First of all great job, second: Im sure you understand what I am about to add and I understand when making a vid its difficult to make sure everything is explained perfect so I'm gonna add this. When chking the toe you need to pull same distance from center of rotor, or hub, front and back on the straight edge, IE: measure 12" along straight edge forward then 12" backward, if not the angle, or degrees, will not be accurate. If you want .125" of total toe, each side needs .0625" of toe difference front and back
Great information man thanks. !! One final measurement is to check LH wheelbase(length) and compare it to RH. Since you measured your front and rear suspensions individually using your frame as a reference point, if the left and right wheelbase is different that means your frame is bent or twisted. Great videos man, love your work. !!!!
I’ve read on how to do this and was so confused. You have cleared this up so much. The laser levels and digital angle finders are great tools. Thanks for doing such a great job on all your videos. Keep it up!!
My worst death wobble came a couple miles from the alignment shop they suggested a steering dampener I took it home and fixed it myself like you just showed but before the fancy lazers
Great video. For toe, I think it’s important to note that the measurement point (on the levels you clamped onto the disc brakes) must be equal. One guy told me that if you’re running 35” tires, then the marks on the level could be 17.5” from the center of hub (fore and aft). That way you’re really measuring where the tire is rather than an arbitrary point. Great video!
Not a big issue on solid axle vehicles but rear toe in is a must, any toe out will cause sudden massive instability at speeds above 30mph. It took the alignment shop 3 tries to get my Mitsubishi GSX aligned properly, the first try almost caused me to head-on a car not 2 miles down the road when I suddenly started wobbling at the rear and spun out at 30mph and crossed lanes.
Toe In- Stabilizes the steering. Adding toe in, makes the steering "heavier". Going toe out, "lightens" the steering and can cause the vehicle wander (pull left and right). Alignment will not cause a vehicle to pull only 1 way. With hydraulic steering or hydro assist, you likely won't experience the effects of alignment to quickly as the hydraulics control these movements unless they are more drastically off spec.
Thank you for the video Nate! I enjoy all of your content but this is exceptionally helpful for me. I’ve been fighting a vibe in my TJ for quite sometime and have had it aligned multiple times but at this point I don’t trust my alignment shops (I’ve tried 3 and all 3 have had different adjustments after the first told me it was good to go). This gives me a way to verify on my own so I can actually feel confident in the alignment and focus on pinion angle from there. Super helpful and thank you again!
Hi Nate, I appreciate this video (all of your work) greatly!!!!! It inspires even great(er) confidence in doing many kinds of work to my cherry 03 WJ which was wrecked (totaled in 2015, after only 1,800 miles driven, "barely even knew this vehicle”) Bent front axle, R control arms, lower control arm frame mount. Essentially had to rework the entire front end of the vehicle. Thankfully, it had no frame damage. I decided to do the work myself, installed a Rough Country Long Arm lift kit and had to learn about many things, rebuilding, suspensions and set up as I went. ~ I never had a death wobble, at any points... which kind of surprises me. Sadly, unaware of this technique... [I feel sort of embarrassed saying] I did a somewhat labored alignment with string, eye-ball and careful measurement method, adjust, then drive... tweak things a little more. Taking my time, I appear to have gotten 'many things right', this Jeep drives so tight and is really predictable... 'inspires confidence', in its handling... enough so *I grew 'afraid' to take it to a professional alignment shop,* for fears they would adjust it out of the tune that I was able to get, learning, taking my time paying really close attention. With all of that said, I am going to invest in, purchase the tools that you showed... revisit my work (after 18,000 miles driven) applying the straight forward methods that you shared in this video... MANY THANKS for posting this!!!
I had 4 degrees of caster on fixed length control arms and I was still getting some negative handling characteristics. I ended up installing some adjustables and I have them dialed to almost 10 degrees of caster with no driveline vibration. Wow what a difference!
JL's Jk I’ve started between 10-12° and it was pretty much level to dropped. Trying to balance pinion angle with caster is a fine line. My LJ is set around 8° and I wish I had a little better pinion angle
Datum line is what you would call that reference line between your two mirror points on the frame. Technically an engineer will only have one datum for an entire vehicle/structure, but as garage mechanics/engineers, we can define our own for each new mod.
Great video! Love your attention to details. Question on the part about centering the front axle, since the axle is on jack stands how do I move the axle without losing the frame center reference to the chalk line? My TJ has a track bar, so wouldn't adjusting it walk the frame off the chalk line reference?
I have the same question. The body moved and not the axle while it’s on jack stands. It appears to have moved in the proper direction, but I don’t want to lose my progress by moving on to the next step
OEM toe specifications are measured with the full weight of the vehicle on low-tension turnplates, with compensation for lateral runout. These steps ensure that tolerances in the wheel bearings, kingpins, and other articulations don’t compromise the accuracy or precision required. If you want to get a straight steering wheel you have to reference the rear axle thrust line which most likely does not match the centreline of the vehicle or axles.
Good stuff. Totally agree about the incorrect castor angles and death-wobble. I think some dudes screw up their castor angles trying to point the front pinion up at the transfer case after a lift (think CV drive shaft alignment). Much better off leaving that pinion pointed straight back, even if you have to replace a u-joint now and then. Btw, I know you did it, but I think you forgot to mention the part about doing those adjustments with the Jeep and axles at ride height (at least anything involving a panhard or the castor angles).
Do you have any videos on setting up a new crossover steering setup setup and track bar? I totally removed my axle installing my new lift kit, and I am starting from scratch on alignment and stuff.
Awesome technique Nate! I bought both lasers from your links. Would be great if you would do a part 2 on pinion angles for front and rear. I have a very slight driveline vibration and bet it is due to my pinion angles not being perfect. Pinion and caster are quite a balancing act with a lifted JK. My ProRock 44 helped with the added caster it provides but seeing how a pro like you set pinion would be super helpful. Thanks!
Great video! I’ve been overthinking it trying to set up a laser tracker from work when seeing your video made total sense. I have a question on the axis for a full hydraulic steering: should the hydraulic ram cylinder axis be in line with attaching to the high steer arm?
do you think with the different toe settings youve done not notice differece maybe do to the hydro assist holding it straight keeping anything from wandering to
This is absolutely the best video on RUclips about this, I’ve never seen it explained so simply! This could be utilized for any hot rod suspension Thank you!!
I am going to guess that you are probbly aware that the side to side centering, of the axles under the frame, move the frame when setting on jackstands at the axle. Did you recenter the actual line when you first did this?
Nate, videos are awesome! Keep up the good work. Im in the process of planning my shop build right now and it got me thinking. You should do a garage and tool box tour. Showing layout, what you would change, and where you would put a lift if you needed/wanted one.
this was an awesome how to video, Nate! Thanks so much for sharing the knowledge! I need to watch this again and let it sink in! I personally only have gravel lol but this is awesome knowledge to have in the bank!
Nate: Great content! I enjoy your channel the most always informative and impressed by ur knowledge. On all my solid axle 4x4s - 71 F100, 90 K5, 00 dodge 3500 dually, 08 F250, and 2010 JK - each have experienced to varying degrees of severity death wobble. I’ve found that in every case the problem resides in the foundation of the steering - the track bar frame bushing. Even in situations where the tie rods or ball joints demonstrate wear, the oscillation occurs as the suspension fluctuates on each side of the “low energy” neutral position of the suspension. I agree that it’s best maintain proper alignment but even a misaligned suspension should not wobble. My experience has always found that replacing the frame mount foundation bushing and then working out from there solves the wobble. My two cents.
Hey Nate! Great video. Quick question on finding the caster angle. Do you have to take the angle of your floor into consideration when finding the angle with a digital angle finder? I’m sure your shop floor is flat. My garage is sloped to get water to the door. Is that something I have to consider or does that not matter? Thanks!
@@DirtLifestyle Got it. so if my axle is measuring 6 degrees but my floor is 1 degree slope, I'm only at 5 degrees and need to add a little more caster, right?
@@michaelhalstead64 zero out the laser on something long and straight like a level that is placed on the floor. Then you don't need to do any math because the slope is taken into account. But this tool is to small to place it directly on the floor because no concrete floor is perfect. A 4' level will help adjust the laser over a longer span and give you a more accurate reading. Then 5° equals 5° 👍
@@DirtLifestyle Nate, one more question for you on caster. what is the margin of difference from side to side? I used a digital angle finder. I know both sides are above 6 degrees. The angle finder goes to the tenth of a degree. If I'm 6.2 on one side and 6.6 on the other, just for example, is that within a reasonable tolerance? or should I try to get them dead nuts equal? part of why I ask, is because where I put the angle finder on the bottom of the C, I can get a slightly different measurement depending on where I place the angle finder. Making it hard to get an exact measurement. I debated taking to an alignment shop but that is really all that is in question. My toe is good. Steering wheel strait. I don't have upper control arms yet so I can only adjust the lower. I have a slight wobble that I'm chasing, hence why I added the LCA to increase the caster. sorry for all the questions. I appreciate the help though.
Is keeping the frame of the Jeep level important? And if you have a control arm with a bushing on one end and an adjuster on the other end..you take the control arm off.. make the adjustment.. but now the axle has to move... do you just bump the axle to match the new control arm length with a hammer at the jack stand? TIA
That was cool. Solid concepts, I like the plumb Bob... but I c the laser angle. Drag link centers the wheel, tie bar sets toe. Good info here. I've had a caster/camber angle gauge for years, it's not laser powered😂👍
"I like to line it up with hole right here" Me too buddy me too! Love the this vid thanks for doing it. Could you please do some welding beginner guide vids? I just got a Omni Pro 220,and well just threw up all over my Rubi D44 JCR truss kit lol. ***Edit*** add the line laser to the amazon link yo!
ok. LOVED this video.... very clear and precise on how a DIY'r can do their own alignment. NOW, for the fun comment.... i actually just dropped a plumb bob from the same hole you used (w laser)... and also from the front of frame back to same plumb bob. The passenger side is measuring an inch off from drivers side. (2000 TJ with fabtech 6" long arm 3-link, w adjustable control arms) Question - is there ANY reason this would need to be this way ? Sounds like i need to adjust control arms. Since i bought this built as it is,... could an accident or something have thrown it off, or needed it to be this way to drive "straight" ? Should i measure from rotor edge to rotor edge front to back both sides to see if this would verify anything ??? thanks.
Nice measuring method I'm building costume truck Suzuki samurai vw tdi 1.9 engine with Nissan patrol axles and Toyota Hilux transmission and this laser method is working great thanks.
Great video. Seems might be more accurate to go to the front or rear edge of the hole in the frame rather than trying to eyeball to the center of that hole. Good stuff.
Amazing video and so Great Job your trips and trick successfully on Jeep 4x4 is Looking for LogLif . Thanks for the informative and helpful advice. Good luck
Would it be convenient to weld a bead or a very small tab on reference points on the axle and bumper and chassis. So measurements would be faster to set up. Like the center of the jeep, center of the axle.
Rear axle center is track bar, right? My lift kit have relocation bracket and only adjustable front track bar. Do you think I need an adjustable rear track bar if I find my rear axle is not centered?
You blew this out of the water. Hands down the best video and most informative.
Thanks buddy!
It is always refreshing to get advice from someone who not only can do the work, but can communicate what he is doing effectively. Major props Bro! Definitely a fan here!
Thank you!
Hey bud, great video as usual. Keep up the good work.
I hate to be “that guy”, but I have to point something out. With the truck supported on the axles, when you adjust the panhard bar, the chassis will move side to side, not the axle, since the axle is essentially fixed to the jack stands/floor. This will end up throwing off your chassis centerline.
I think it would work to square the axles to the chassis, Mark the floor with the axle center, and then adjust the chassis side to side.
I’m not sure how well I’m explaining it, but it would just be a slight modification in the procedure.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos, they are super helpful and great entertainment.
I like watching your videos because you simplify things. I always go online and read forumns and what bit before projects. I almost always see everyone bitching and moaning about how hard something is. I always start with an attitude of, "oh come on. It cant be that hard." I have been right all but one time.
I couldn't agree more. People complain because they dont have a good bearing of what "hard" is. I think everyone needs to spend the first year after high school doing a Job that involves a shovel. After digging outside for a year they wont bitch about the inconvenient placement of a thermostat lol. It's all perspective 👍
Greatest how to channel ever made. Well done...more please
Thank you!
Most shops would not spend this much time on the alignment. Awesome video thank you!
Thank you I agree! Many shops get it good enough but not as good as it could be! Then we are left wondering why the tires wear funny
You are the best! Easy to understand, the best thing is that you have the experience in your jeep! and you know it works! I don't miss a single video, Greetings from Venezuela
Thank you! I hope to visit Venezuela one day 👍
I love the simplicity of this! I am a mason by trade and did swimming pools in Southern California I already have all the stuff lol
I was a union plumber for 15 years lol. I attack every project like it's construction 👍
Dirt Lifestyle your definitely my favorite now! You make it easier and you make it work and you demonstrate options as you do it! I identify with this!
@@DirtLifestyle let's be honest tho....plumbers just make everything flo downhill! 🤔😂👍
Caster measurement. I have been contemplating a simple tool to help with that pesky ball joint nut. A short piece of pipe, tube or conduit cut to a precise length, lets say two inches. then weld (a couple good tacks) a flat plate to one end. Confirm it is square! Slip this "new tool" over the nut resting it on the flat, then you have a nice flat spot on the top to take measurements from.
I took all the centering measurements, marked them on the axles with a sharpie, adjusted away till happy. Painted it all up. Where are the marks now!?!?! Center punch, smack it with a chisel. whatever but make a permanent mark for the NEXT time you do an alignment! Great video Nate! SEEEEE people it's not rocket science!
Cant thank you enough for this video. I ve been fighting driveability issues with my axle swapped XJ for years, picked up the laser levels and followed your procedures and now it finally drives great. Keep up the great content Nate.
I got death wobble when I changed out my heim joints and completely forgot to measure before, went to a shop to get a allignment and didn’t work. Went to a local 4x4 shop to try to figure out what was causing my death wobble. They wanted to charge $1300 to “fix it”. I ended up doing a tape measure allignment and it has never drove better. Thank you so much.
Nate, I am new to Jeep (just got a Cherry 40K mile TJ and putting a full Currie set up on it) and I have found your content to be super helpful and easy to understand. Many thanks!
Great explanation. I followed this process after installing adjustable control arms and track bars. Test drove afterwards with zero death wobble and steers perfectly with NO Steering stabilizer !
Nice man! 👌
I always like these videos before I even watch them. I know they are just that good. Keep killing it.
Your awesome bro! Thank you for the support!
@@DirtLifestyle love your videos, even if they don't pertain to me they are some of the most informative on the tube.
Just wanted to show some well deserved love in the comments section. Nate, you are a true fabricator brother, love the tips and tricks, love the content. So happy you were able to turn in your van keys and provide for your family by doing what you obviously love doing! Keep it crawlin brotha! -wheeling punn:)
Thank you for taking the time to write a positive comment! I truly appreciate the kind words!
I do professional alignments on high-performance cars and production-based race cars for a living. But I use a $12000 machine and lift. what you explained is right on the money. one of the biggest performance upgrades I tell my customers is alignment and tires because your car/truck/jeep does not come from the factory perfectly aligned to there specs. Great video
Thank you for the high praise! It sounds like you have quite the background. Thank you for watching brother 👊
I never thought about using straight edges on the rotors, I like that idea because I do not the woman to help me measure the tires (I do not have a tram gauge).
Up until now I would bend the end of a 16d to about 45 and hold it with vice grips while the woman spins the wheel.
I get a good very sharp line to measure the front of tire and rear and adjust to 1/16 - 1/8.
I square front and rear axles by measuring the rims, usually the rear edge of the rear tire to the rear edge of the front tire to get an accurate center - center after finding a common measuring hole on the frame.
I have to say you are almost as good as me. You make sense as opposed to other youtubes.
You have knocked another one out of the park Nate. Great video. Great information. Great presentation.
Thanks buddy! I appreciate the support 👊
Awesome video. It's also wild how perfect the timing is for this to be uploaded, when finally I have a fully adjustable suspension on the way. I'll be using this as a reference for a while, thank you! I'll be on the lookout for your take on pinion angle.
Thanks man! Good luck with the new suspension!
@@DirtLifestyle When I commented on this I was new to the channel at the time, and I'm glad I looked at your previous videos to find some great info on pinion angle that you've already explained. It's tough as a JK owner to sometimes listen to videos based on different Wrangler generations, or other brand vehicles in general since I'm not able to predict if the majority of information shared will apply to my situation, but your TJ stretch episode series was awesome to follow. Watching those videos wouldn't require the viewer to have a TJ in order to learn a whole lot about their own rig. It applies universally in many ways. Rant over, again thanks for your content.
Using your techniques and 2 lasers helped align a budies jeep axles, jeep drives perfectly. This was a brand new jeep, that was off from factory. Not a lot, but enough to make it drive funny.
Amazing video man! I have been trying to get my jeep ('97 TJ w/ Rubicon 4" super flex lift) aligned since the first day I got it and no one has been able to get it right. After this video, $100 in tools, and some patience, I was able to align my jeep myself and it is perfect! Thank you so much for putting this type of content out there.
I'm happy to help!
Thanks for taking the time to show this to us.
That laser level trick...🤯
🤘
Thanks! You lost me on the castor but I'll watch a few more times. The rest of it made super sense! Great video as always!
Home run! Another great video. That's the best explanation of "how to" for an alignment I've seen.
Also agree. Caster is probably the worst culprit to cause death wobble, especially with modified suspension.
Can't wait til the next vid.🤙
Thanks Nate 😊 I finally got my adjustable control arms
6 to 8 degrees perfect
First of all great job, second: Im sure you understand what I am about to add and I understand when making a vid its difficult to make sure everything is explained perfect so I'm gonna add this. When chking the toe you need to pull same distance from center of rotor, or hub, front and back on the straight edge, IE: measure 12" along straight edge forward then 12" backward, if not the angle, or degrees, will not be accurate. If you want .125" of total toe, each side needs .0625" of toe difference front and back
Great information man thanks. !! One final measurement is to check LH wheelbase(length) and compare it to RH. Since you measured your front and rear suspensions individually using your frame as a reference point, if the left and right wheelbase is different that means your frame is bent or twisted. Great videos man, love your work. !!!!
I’ve read on how to do this and was so confused. You have cleared this up so much. The laser levels and digital angle finders are great tools. Thanks for doing such a great job on all your videos. Keep it up!!
My worst death wobble came a couple miles from the alignment shop they suggested a steering dampener I took it home and fixed it myself like you just showed but before the fancy lazers
Awesome video. I’ll be checking my alignment this weekend. Thank you!
Love the video Nate it’s been needed for a beginner fabricator like me and others keep up the awesome videos
Thank you for watching!
Wow!! That is some great information!! Headed straight for the Amazon list if its still there. Already have that exact dot laser.
Great video. Very easy to understand. I will be doing this tomorrow because a just added adjustable control arm.
Great video. For toe, I think it’s important to note that the measurement point (on the levels you clamped onto the disc brakes) must be equal. One guy told me that if you’re running 35” tires, then the marks on the level could be 17.5” from the center of hub (fore and aft). That way you’re really measuring where the tire is rather than an arbitrary point.
Great video!
Clear and easy to understand. Home run my man.
Thanks!
very educational my friend. never disappointed with your videos
Thanks buddy 👊
I have to say you did a great job on how to do this. Thanks and keep up the good job.
I had to pause the video at 0:11 just to press like 😊👍
Not a big issue on solid axle vehicles but rear toe in is a must, any toe out will cause sudden massive instability at speeds above 30mph. It took the alignment shop 3 tries to get my Mitsubishi GSX aligned properly, the first try almost caused me to head-on a car not 2 miles down the road when I suddenly started wobbling at the rear and spun out at 30mph and crossed lanes.
Toe In- Stabilizes the steering.
Adding toe in, makes the steering "heavier".
Going toe out, "lightens" the steering and can cause the vehicle wander (pull left and right).
Alignment will not cause a vehicle to pull only 1 way.
With hydraulic steering or hydro assist, you likely won't experience the effects of alignment to quickly as the hydraulics control these movements unless they are more drastically off spec.
Thank you for the video Nate! I enjoy all of your content but this is exceptionally helpful for me. I’ve been fighting a vibe in my TJ for quite sometime and have had it aligned multiple times but at this point I don’t trust my alignment shops (I’ve tried 3 and all 3 have had different adjustments after the first told me it was good to go). This gives me a way to verify on my own so I can actually feel confident in the alignment and focus on pinion angle from there. Super helpful and thank you again!
No problem! Good luck!
Hi Nate, I appreciate this video (all of your work) greatly!!!!! It inspires even great(er) confidence in doing many kinds of work to my cherry 03 WJ which was wrecked (totaled in 2015, after only 1,800 miles driven, "barely even knew this vehicle”) Bent front axle, R control arms, lower control arm frame mount. Essentially had to rework the entire front end of the vehicle. Thankfully, it had no frame damage. I decided to do the work myself, installed a Rough Country Long Arm lift kit and had to learn about many things, rebuilding, suspensions and set up as I went. ~ I never had a death wobble, at any points... which kind of surprises me.
Sadly, unaware of this technique... [I feel sort of embarrassed saying] I did a somewhat labored alignment with string, eye-ball and careful measurement method, adjust, then drive... tweak things a little more. Taking my time, I appear to have gotten 'many things right', this Jeep drives so tight and is really predictable... 'inspires confidence', in its handling... enough so *I grew 'afraid' to take it to a professional alignment shop,* for fears they would adjust it out of the tune that I was able to get, learning, taking my time paying really close attention. With all of that said, I am going to invest in, purchase the tools that you showed... revisit my work (after 18,000 miles driven) applying the straight forward methods that you shared in this video... MANY THANKS for posting this!!!
Thanks, Nate! I love the content! I would be interested in listening to your thoughts on pinion angle in another video!
No lie, I just spent all day today at the mechanic waiting for an alignment 😂 just my luck! I see this video now after It’s done and paid for
Recommend getting a second laser to put on the opposite side and line them up on the floor I know they’re expensive but I think it’d be worth it.
Get one...that shoots a 90. Then...make parallel marks on the floor front and back. Snap lines. Squared up rectangle.
Plumb bob thingy on the rear bumper and a line laser on the front also works rather good
I had 4 degrees of caster on fixed length control arms and I was still getting some negative handling characteristics. I ended up installing some adjustables and I have them dialed to almost 10 degrees of caster with no driveline vibration. Wow what a difference!
I've seem people go that high with great success. If it works then send it!
@@DirtLifestyle consider it sent!
What is your pinion angle at with that caster?
JL's Jk I’ve started between 10-12° and it was pretty much level to dropped. Trying to balance pinion angle with caster is a fine line. My LJ is set around 8° and I wish I had a little better pinion angle
Thanks Nate! Just finishing up long arm upgrade. This is a huge help!
No problem! Thank you for watching!
Datum line is what you would call that reference line between your two mirror points on the frame. Technically an engineer will only have one datum for an entire vehicle/structure, but as garage mechanics/engineers, we can define our own for each new mod.
Great video! Love your attention to details. Question on the part about centering the front axle, since the axle is on jack stands how do I move the axle without losing the frame center reference to the chalk line? My TJ has a track bar, so wouldn't adjusting it walk the frame off the chalk line reference?
I have the same question. The body moved and not the axle while it’s on jack stands. It appears to have moved in the proper direction, but I don’t want to lose my progress by moving on to the next step
Can't wait to try this this weekend!
Dang , totally made me rethink a ton of stuff , definitely the ideal path to perfection, and that is what I'm all about.great video .👍👌
Thanks for watching buddy 👍
Man, your videos are theee best out there 🙏🙌
OEM toe specifications are measured with the full weight of the vehicle on low-tension turnplates, with compensation for lateral runout. These steps ensure that tolerances in the wheel bearings, kingpins, and other articulations don’t compromise the accuracy or precision required. If you want to get a straight steering wheel you have to reference the rear axle thrust line which most likely does not match the centreline of the vehicle or axles.
Awesome, Bang on with Castor . and yet seems like everyone just wants to fit more Steering stabalizers ....lol
Lol agreed!
I’ve have tried to align my truck and get so frustrated I just stop and have a shop do it....😂🤣. So jealous that you have a system!!!
Excellent video, strategies and instructions. Thanks!
Good stuff. Totally agree about the incorrect castor angles and death-wobble. I think some dudes screw up their castor angles trying to point the front pinion up at the transfer case after a lift (think CV drive shaft alignment). Much better off leaving that pinion pointed straight back, even if you have to replace a u-joint now and then. Btw, I know you did it, but I think you forgot to mention the part about doing those adjustments with the Jeep and axles at ride height (at least anything involving a panhard or the castor angles).
Nice job, Nate!
You explained that so well and easy to understand 👍 I’ve see so many people make this so complicated that by the end you’re head is spinning 🤪😳
Thank you! I'm glad I sounded coherent lol. These topics are tough to cover
Do you have any videos on setting up a new crossover steering setup setup and track bar? I totally removed my axle installing my new lift kit, and I am starting from scratch on alignment and stuff.
Awesome technique Nate! I bought both lasers from your links. Would be great if you would do a part 2 on pinion angles for front and rear. I have a very slight driveline vibration and bet it is due to my pinion angles not being perfect. Pinion and caster are quite a balancing act with a lifted JK. My ProRock 44 helped with the added caster it provides but seeing how a pro like you set pinion would be super helpful. Thanks!
Great video! I’ve been overthinking it trying to set up a laser tracker from work when seeing your video made total sense. I have a question on the axis for a full hydraulic steering: should the hydraulic ram cylinder axis be in line with attaching to the high steer arm?
do you think with the different toe settings youve done not notice differece maybe do to the hydro assist holding it straight keeping anything from wandering to
Great video thanks Nate. I have a question though. Where do you zero the digital angle finder for caster before measuring the angle at the C.
This is absolutely the best video on RUclips about this, I’ve never seen it explained so simply! This could be utilized for any hot rod suspension Thank you!!
Thank you!
Awesome video, so much valuable information! I really need to get adjustable control arms.
Nate accidentally says something wrong, corrects himself and doesn't edit it out and keeps talking. All respects for that, rare.
Thank you!
Bout to do all these measurements tomorrow morning...we’ll see how it goes!
Awesome video! Thank you for taking the time
I am going to guess that you are probbly aware that the side to side centering, of the axles under the frame, move the frame when setting on jackstands at the axle. Did you recenter the actual line when you first did this?
Exactly what I needed. Thanks!
Awesome video , very thorough in detail. Thanks.
No problem buddy 🤘, thank you for watching
Excellent video! Excellent information.........I have some work to do smh Thanks.
Just the info I was looking for, Thanks
Great video as always!!
Nate, videos are awesome! Keep up the good work. Im in the process of planning my shop build right now and it got me thinking. You should do a garage and tool box tour. Showing layout, what you would change, and where you would put a lift if you needed/wanted one.
this was an awesome how to video, Nate! Thanks so much for sharing the knowledge! I need to watch this again and let it sink in! I personally only have gravel lol but this is awesome knowledge to have in the bank!
killin it Nate, keep it comin'!
Great info, I'll get the line later for sure!
Nate, thanks buddy. Ive been waiting for this video !!!!!
Nate: Great content! I enjoy your channel the most always informative and impressed by ur knowledge. On all my solid axle 4x4s - 71 F100, 90 K5, 00 dodge 3500 dually, 08 F250, and 2010 JK - each have experienced to varying degrees of severity death wobble. I’ve found that in every case the problem resides in the foundation of the steering - the track bar frame bushing. Even in situations where the tie rods or ball joints demonstrate wear, the oscillation occurs as the suspension fluctuates on each side of the “low energy” neutral position of the suspension. I agree that it’s best maintain proper alignment but even a misaligned suspension should not wobble.
My experience has always found that replacing the frame mount foundation bushing and then working out from there solves the wobble. My two cents.
Jeeps + lasers = 🔥 👍👍
You should make a video on how to adjust a double triangulated 4 link. How to move it left and right..etc..
Dude thank you so much for this fantastic information!!!!!!!
Great video. Very informative. Thank you, Nate
Thanks brother 👊
You are absolutely right. I've always thought caster was a huge consideration for DW.
death wobble has so many opinions but it is 95% caster that causes it atleast im convinced!.
Hey Nate! Great video. Quick question on finding the caster angle. Do you have to take the angle of your floor into consideration when finding the angle with a digital angle finder? I’m sure your shop floor is flat. My garage is sloped to get water to the door. Is that something I have to consider or does that not matter? Thanks!
I would check it against something 4 feet or longer that is set on the floor. I use a 4 foot level but a straight peice of angle iron would work too 👍
@@DirtLifestyle Got it. so if my axle is measuring 6 degrees but my floor is 1 degree slope, I'm only at 5 degrees and need to add a little more caster, right?
@@michaelhalstead64 zero out the laser on something long and straight like a level that is placed on the floor. Then you don't need to do any math because the slope is taken into account. But this tool is to small to place it directly on the floor because no concrete floor is perfect. A 4' level will help adjust the laser over a longer span and give you a more accurate reading. Then 5° equals 5° 👍
@@DirtLifestyle copy. that makes complete sense.
@@DirtLifestyle Nate, one more question for you on caster. what is the margin of difference from side to side? I used a digital angle finder. I know both sides are above 6 degrees. The angle finder goes to the tenth of a degree. If I'm 6.2 on one side and 6.6 on the other, just for example, is that within a reasonable tolerance? or should I try to get them dead nuts equal? part of why I ask, is because where I put the angle finder on the bottom of the C, I can get a slightly different measurement depending on where I place the angle finder. Making it hard to get an exact measurement. I debated taking to an alignment shop but that is really all that is in question. My toe is good. Steering wheel strait. I don't have upper control arms yet so I can only adjust the lower. I have a slight wobble that I'm chasing, hence why I added the LCA to increase the caster. sorry for all the questions. I appreciate the help though.
Is keeping the frame of the Jeep level important? And if you have a control arm with a bushing on one end and an adjuster on the other end..you take the control arm off.. make the adjustment.. but now the axle has to move... do you just bump the axle to match the new control arm length with a hammer at the jack stand? TIA
That was cool.
Solid concepts, I like the plumb Bob... but I c the laser angle.
Drag link centers the wheel, tie bar sets toe. Good info here.
I've had a caster/camber angle gauge for years, it's not laser powered😂👍
"I like to line it up with hole right here"
Me too buddy me too!
Love the this vid thanks for doing it.
Could you please do some welding beginner guide vids? I just got a Omni Pro 220,and well just threw up all over my Rubi D44 JCR truss kit lol.
***Edit*** add the line laser to the amazon link yo!
It's listed under header Not today death wobble! It's the $60 cross line by Bosch. It's laser is red instead of Nate's green laser unit.
could you guys get to the affiliate link? it's loading nothing but a blank page for me...
ok. LOVED this video.... very clear and precise on how a DIY'r can do their own alignment. NOW, for the fun comment.... i actually just dropped a plumb bob from the same hole you used (w laser)... and also from the front of frame back to same plumb bob. The passenger side is measuring an inch off from drivers side. (2000 TJ with fabtech 6" long arm 3-link, w adjustable control arms) Question - is there ANY reason this would need to be this way ? Sounds like i need to adjust control arms. Since i bought this built as it is,... could an accident or something have thrown it off, or needed it to be this way to drive "straight" ? Should i measure from rotor edge to rotor edge front to back both sides to see if this would verify anything ??? thanks.
Well at least I can use this to check how far off my zuk's spoa is. Great info Nate
Thanks man! Good luck with the zuk!
Rear axle to frame center alignment, control arms or track bar adjustment?
Great video as always man. I knew some of this, not all of it, Thanks!
Nice measuring method I'm building costume truck Suzuki samurai vw tdi 1.9 engine with Nissan patrol axles and Toyota Hilux transmission and this laser method is working great thanks.
Great video. Seems might be more accurate to go to the front or rear edge of the hole in the frame rather than trying to eyeball to the center of that hole. Good stuff.
Amazing video and so Great Job your trips and trick successfully on Jeep 4x4 is Looking for LogLif . Thanks for the informative and helpful advice. Good luck
Would it be convenient to weld a bead or a very small tab on reference points on the axle and bumper and chassis. So measurements would be faster to set up. Like the center of the jeep, center of the axle.
Mark it how ever you want lol. Weld, Sharpe it all works
Rear axle center is track bar, right? My lift kit have relocation bracket and only adjustable front track bar. Do you think I need an adjustable rear track bar if I find my rear axle is not centered?