These videos are some of the most interesting and helpful I've seen on youtube. Very helpful for an ultra novice crack climber. I love the lack of music as well. The noise of clang and scraping of gear over granite is hypnotic. Keep it up!
awesome climb. would you consider posting unedited videos? as a novice trad leader seeing gear placements, time spent considering moves, etc. is really helpful.
Yes sir. I will plan on posting more unedited in the future. Its a tough balance between a 16 minute video of the highlights and 46 minute of everything. Appreciate the feedback!
For those wanting to see more gear placements; you probably did see most of them. There is some runouts longer than on sport climbs. It is not a route you fall your way up
While I've climbed at Lover's Leap, this is a route I've never done, and it looks wonderful. I have just one comment. As an old fart trad climber. (I just turned 80, still climb 8 pretty well & the occasional 10-, but let my son lead the stuff above 7.) I started out when pitons were the pro(edit: Nice pin placement on what looks like P2) , I'm amazed at the number of climbers who today almost exclusively use cams on routes like this. It looks like every placement is on a perfect crack, near a wonderful pinch that would accept nonmechanical gear from small stoppers to Hexes (do modern climbers use them anymore?). Now, don't get me wrong. I started using mechanicals as soon as they came out with solid shaft Friends & had wired cams from Turtle Mountaineering in Canada, before they came to the U. S. On long, unfamiliar routes, I've taken 2 sets of Camalots from the smallest available up to a #5 or 6. (Well, only 1 each of those. Sometimes to my chagrin, I might add.). But even on pretty parallel cracks, I've used the occasional Hex or Tricam where they'd work as well or possibly even better than a cam. And they don't walk, once they're set. Anyway, I'm wondering if that gear is considered outdated? Or is it just faster to place cams for most climbers today? Or what reason?
I have that same question. My first season in the Valley was the last time I used pins. Spring of 72. Returning in the fall with a set of hexes and stoppers. No such thing as cams.
Because...you HAVE to make Ham and Cheese a little harder! I use nuts on those cracks. Super bomber. Great climb. Edit to add - I was way off. I will have to find that one!
How the years have passed, I did this climb in 1972 or 1973. I lay backed much of the first pitch following and lead the second pitch. No cams back then, nuts and pitons.
@clu4u cams weren't available until the late 70s. At one point I had 8/9 nuts of my own; so if my partner had none; if there is were no tree or fixed belay anchors; it was three nuts for pro on the pitch. And one nut was a number one stopper. My favorite stopper was the 41/2 when it came out and I found one stuck in a crack. I found a lot of ones to twos stuck; so that built up my numbers;.and got me climbing on Glacier Point Apron when in Yosemite.
Have you tried tiblocs instead of micro traxions for the simul backups? At least on climbs where there's not a lot of traversing I don't find the difference in rope drag between the two to be significant, and they are a lot cheaper and lighter if you need to carry a few for long simuls.
Exactly! Acts as a bit of a rigged one way belay device to ensure The leader doesn’t get pulled off the rock. Placing them every rope length helps keep things relatively tame
how come you are wearing socks? I do have to complaint about you playing music out loud while you climb, pls wear headphones, let others enjoy the peace and quiet its part of the leave not trace for others to enjoy. Cool climb The Leap its such a pretty place
![Kumamoto Masters Japan 2024 | Gregoria Mariska Tunjung (INA) [5] vs. Akane Yamaguchi (JPN) [2] | F](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EIjZybhsWqA/mqdefault.jpg)
These videos are some of the most interesting and helpful I've seen on youtube. Very helpful for an ultra novice crack climber. I love the lack of music as well. The noise of clang and scraping of gear over granite is hypnotic. Keep it up!
Thanks mucho amigo! Glad you are enjoying them! Hope to see you out at the crag again soon.
Awesome video. Would loved to have seen a little bit more of the placements, but so enjoyable to watch that much simuling.
Another epic video man! 130 metres of 5.9!? So sick! And a simul nonetheless.
Keep it up you two! So inspirational.
Such fabulous vistas. Thanks so much for bringing us along w/ you!
Bummed to not see your gear placements.
Will be posting more gear placements in the future for sure. More included in the Clouds Rest video coming out today.
Thought the same but a lot of his vids do capture the placements
awesome climb. would you consider posting unedited videos? as a novice trad leader seeing gear placements, time spent considering moves, etc. is really helpful.
Yes sir. I will plan on posting more unedited in the future. Its a tough balance between a 16 minute video of the highlights and 46 minute of everything. Appreciate the feedback!
TM Herbert would be happy to watch this.
Congrats and good luck, man!
For those wanting to see more gear placements; you probably did see most of them. There is some runouts longer than on sport climbs. It is not a route you fall your way up
That type of granite is brutal climbing on!!! Rips up your hands quick
yes totally agree. Gotta place them softly and not wiggle too much.
While I've climbed at Lover's Leap, this is a route I've never done, and it looks wonderful. I have just one comment.
As an old fart trad climber. (I just turned 80, still climb 8 pretty well & the occasional 10-, but let my son lead the stuff above 7.) I started out when pitons were the pro(edit: Nice pin placement on what looks like P2) , I'm amazed at the number of climbers who today almost exclusively use cams on routes like this. It looks like every placement is on a perfect crack, near a wonderful pinch that would accept nonmechanical gear from small stoppers to Hexes (do modern climbers use them anymore?).
Now, don't get me wrong. I started using mechanicals as soon as they came out with solid shaft Friends & had wired cams from Turtle Mountaineering in Canada, before they came to the U. S. On long, unfamiliar routes, I've taken 2 sets of Camalots from the smallest available up to a #5 or 6. (Well, only 1 each of those. Sometimes to my chagrin, I might add.). But even on pretty parallel cracks, I've used the occasional Hex or Tricam where they'd work as well or possibly even better than a cam. And they don't walk, once they're set.
Anyway, I'm wondering if that gear is considered outdated? Or is it just faster to place cams for most climbers today? Or what reason?
I have that same question. My first season in the Valley was the last time I used pins. Spring of 72. Returning in the fall with a set of hexes and stoppers. No such thing as cams.
@@kid5Media#4 stopper was my favorite, I’d carry at least 3-4.
There is a GREAT CLIMB just to the right of, The Line, called, Labor of Love! The ULTIMATE in dike hiking!
Get a drone or a camera person who can show The Line; and no no hands rest turning the mini roof before the top?
Because...you HAVE to make Ham and Cheese a little harder!
I use nuts on those cracks. Super bomber.
Great climb.
Edit to add - I was way off. I will have to find that one!
Nice climb, the music from the speaker ruins it a little though...
Unbelievable line. Pure trad porn watching this. I wanted to see ALL of the placements though! Fantastic video man, enjoyed the hell out of it.
Fascinating
Man I love your videos, but the music on a speaker while climbing is so shite.
Beauty!
How the years have passed, I did this climb in 1972 or 1973. I lay backed much of the first pitch following and lead the second pitch. No cams back then, nuts and pitons.
You used pitons on it? No need in '73.
@@craigbritton1089We didn’t have cams, I couldn’t afford them. Carried pitons but used only nuts. #4 stoppers were my favorite on thin cracks.
@clu4u cams weren't available until the late 70s. At one point I had 8/9 nuts of my own; so if my partner had none; if there is were no tree or fixed belay anchors; it was three nuts for pro on the pitch. And one nut was a number one stopper. My favorite stopper was the 41/2 when it came out and I found one stuck in a crack. I found a lot of ones to twos stuck; so that built up my numbers;.and got me climbing on Glacier Point Apron when in Yosemite.
Bobby B!!
That must mean thinly spaced gear.
Have you tried tiblocs instead of micro traxions for the simul backups? At least on climbs where there's not a lot of traversing I don't find the difference in rope drag between the two to be significant, and they are a lot cheaper and lighter if you need to carry a few for long simuls.
A tibloc should only be used as an emergency device. At loads achievable in top rope soloing and simul climbing a tibloc could very well shred a rope.
It was amazing to see Dan Osman and Alex Honnold solo this route in minutes!
I liked the Rock band on top. Fun add on.
BEARS REACH not THE LINE, but yeah, great homage to Dan by Alex
Great video.Thanks for sharing. How long did it actually take you to climb?
Cheers! We probably climbed for an hour and a half. Maybe a little shorter than that
Does anybody know how damaged the rock is after the fire?
NOPE. no Problems.
A classic
Wow, that was a wild ride! Is the microtrax to "fix" the rope, so that if your follower falls, she doesn't pull you off too?
Exactly! Acts as a bit of a rigged one way belay device to ensure The leader doesn’t get pulled off the rock. Placing them every rope length helps keep things relatively tame
@@GravityLabz thanks! That makes sense
One pitch? Are you using a 140 meter rope?
how come you are wearing socks? I do have to complaint about you playing music out loud while you climb, pls wear headphones, let others enjoy the peace and quiet its part of the leave not trace for others to enjoy.
Cool climb The Leap its such a pretty place
SIR find ur FEETTT!!!!!
haha
Feet come first!
Climbeing is hawd
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