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Sentinel: The West Face (1967) - Vintage rock climbing film
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- Опубликовано: 22 май 2019
- Very rare half-hour long feature, sourced from the 1979 MCA DiscoVision laserdisc release. A heavy rotter, but in my opinion, doesn't affect the picture that much making it fairly watchable.
Side 1 of On Vacation with Mickey Mouse and Friends is the dead side on this disc.
If you are the copyright owner of this material and object to this upload, feel free to contact me and I will remove it. Thank you.
Lovely film. Yvon Chouinard and Royal Robins were true pioneers, breaking new territory and making the rules as they went forward. Things hadn't progressed much when I began climbing in the late 70's. There were just two choices for climbing shoes, but they were too expensive for guys like me. We were still using hip belays and tying into the rope with a bowline wrapped around our waist. The leader simply DID NOT FALL!
John Long - “The West Face now goes all free at 5.13, FFA by Kevin Jorgeson and Ben Rueck. Crux is on the 3rd pitch involving a huge leap/dynamic. But there's a lot of 5.12 on this pitch and it's 135 feet long. The splitter crack 2nd pitch is supposed to be one of the finest 5.11 cracks in the Valley and the upper wall is classic. It's also super clean and retrofitted with new bolt anchors (where needed) thanks to Ryan Sheridan and his YOSAR crew who put in 3 whole days cleaning and re-tooling this all-time classic. It's "museum quality" now. I suspect it will become a popular test piece for the modern free climber and a welcome change from binging on El Cap.”
Chouinard and Robbins truly climbing Royalty, in more than just name. In the time I have spent on Yosemite walls I never had orchestra accompaniment! Didn't know this film existed. Wonderful piece of essential Valley history.
What a nice film.. please don’t remove it. The younger set needs to see pitoncraft as it was. That film had spirit.
I definitely won't! Thanks!
I agree
just imagine how this was filmed with cameras of that time.....
Right?!
That was so amazing to watch. The swami belts, hammers and pitons. The old school version of the modern day portaledge, the hammock. Absolutely loved it.
Chouinard is wearing Kronhoffers and Robbins has on Pivetta Spiders.
This 55-year-old film is fascinating. The cinematography is fantastic, the colors amazing! I am always curious how the soundtracks on older films, even documentaries, sound so loud and overbearing these days. I started rock climbing in the decade this film was made, and never noticed the soundtracks being so loud and intrusive. When I go back and watch films like Apocalypse Now, the Deer Hunter, or just about anything else from that era, I almost can’t watch because of the blasting musical score that sometimes even drowns out the dialogue. I’ve become so used to (and appreciative of) videos with minimal soundtracks - and better yet, just the captured ambient sound of, for example, the wind and the jingle of gear hanging from the rack and the climber’s breathing - that it’s a bit distracting watching the oldies. But this film is pure gold! ✌🏼
I’d get your hearing checked….I’ve got awesome hearing (just had it tested) and I’ve never noticed this huge issue. It sounds different sure….this is clearly low quality and hasn’t been mastered even or fixed at all. But watching an old film but all fixed up….I never had an issue with movies and shows from that time having this blasting sound or can’t hear them. Sure sometimes it happens especially on RUclips videos modern ones I mean. But movies or shows not often at all. 🤷🏼♀️ I’m 52 but my dads hearing went at 50 and for DECADES he denied it….denial can be a hell of thing ….not saying you are tho! I just wanna hear the best I can, if I need something I’ll try and get it.
Had me at the “harness .
Even knowing these two would live on for decades,
It was still thrilling. Top five for me.
this is a magnificent film, a classic in its own right, regardless that its happens to be climbing. Incredible that this was filmed back in 1967. Starting at Stoney Point and continues to the valley is truly inspiring. Granite calls, and the perfect granite of New Hampshire is quite far away and yosemite is so close. It isnt a desire I have to feel the power of that stone but a feeling of necessity, something I will regret not having done when I reach old age. And at the end showing the names of the mountaineers, two of the most important figures in modern activity of ascending stone. Thanks so much for this upload, this is incredibly inspiring, the stone calls, and I must answer.
Thank you for sharing your inspiring thoughts. ✌🏼
To see a climb of this nature, on a mountain of such acclaim, filmed in 1967, is just amazing.
Wonderful introduction to mechanical climbing as I think they used to call it in the 'olden days'.
1200 ft (364 m), 11 pitches
FA: Yvon Chouinard and Tom Frost (June 1960), FFA: Ben Rueck & Kevin Jorgeson (Sept. 2016)
Nice, nice movie !!! Royal Robbins is unmistakable with his glasses and beret. And Chouinard is about to make the third ascent of Fitz Roy in 1968, with friends, coming from USA in a van.... With boots and pitons.... Hats off.
To read "Camp IV" from Steve Roper about the Yosemite's legend climbers ! Royal Robbins, Yvon "Patagonia" Chouinard, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt, Jim Bridwell etc etc... Thank you for this great film.
"It is human expression, as individual as a name or a signature." very romantic
Wow what an incredible film! From the kinesthetic beauty to the cinematography, narration, and sound, this is a timeless masterpiece encompassing the liberating human expression we call climbing. I was wondering how this was shot but upon seeing the names Chuck Pratt, Tom Frost, and Roger Brown... of course!
Those were some the top dogs. In my career, I'd never seen this. Thanks for keeping it up.
"Consternation May Result." I think this is my new slogan.
My first "big wall" solo late 70s. Sort of remember some of the aid being really scary for me at the time.
Back then, being a climber meant a lot more than it does now. Great film, it's awesome to see how people climbed during those times.
pin scars make many of the valley's classics climbable. thanks for sharing, it's truly awe inspiring what the valley warriors were able to do with just grit and cajones.
Classic climbing. Kudos to the camera team
Phenomenal. Thank you for sharing.
crazy, these legends have probably long since passed
Yvon is very much still around. You are probably wearing a piece of his clothing right now. Tom Frost checked a short while ago, maybe 2 years ago and Royal a few years before that. Chuck Pratt left us maybe 15-20 years ago.
Yvon Chounard is still alive, and just gifted his company Patagonia to try to save the earth. Royal Robbins died recently.
I encourage anyone with a recency bias to attempt a 5.9 in heavy boots, and having to let go to hammer in your protection.
& with a fricking waste loop for a harness if you fall
@@Will-kt5jkit will waste you!
@@Will-kt5jk Well….unlike now, nobody expected to fall. Falling was seen as a last resort, a failure, rather than falling over and over while “working” a route like everyone does now.
Bruh this is freakin insane.
I really lked this movie and the climb , so inspired to me.
love old climbing footage! thanks.
Excellent ! Thank you very much Donut Smasher..
Super cool movie. Pioneers.
peak documentary
West Face of Sentinel. Was VI, 5.9, A4. Don't know what it is now. Robbins and Chouinard. Looks like Chouinard is wearing Kronhofers.
Freed about two years back by Kevin Jorgensen and partner at about 5.13. The crux might avoid the expanding flake but I can't recall.
ruclips.net/video/nCkHjmOJyco/видео.html
Royal and Yvon
Anybody else watching the footwork? Ball of the foot, rather than toe. Interesting, how footwork evolved with the shoes. Did the shoe change the footwork, or did guys design the shoes to get more out of the toe?
Modern shoes focus the toes to the crafted edge. Back then it was a matter of smearing as much rubber as possible (and the rubber was not nearly as sticky)
Whoaaa so fucking cool
awesome !
Wow…those guys where basically soloing & taking his partner with him if the leader falls
I wonder why it took so long to realize that nuts are far easier and often more secure than pitons? Who invented them when?
Climbers in the UK were putting machine nuts in cracks in the 1950s. Before that they were inserting pebbles and threading them.
Chocks took a little while to catch on in the U.S…it’s hard to place your trust is something that’s merely wedged in the crack when you’ve been used to something that’s literally hammered in. But, Yvon and Royal were two of the big innovators when it came to the use and design of chocks. When this movie was made chocks were just starting to be experimented with in the US. Fun fact…hexes are they shape they are because they mimic the shape of the large machine nuts that were originally used as chocks in the U.K.
26:00…
“Sport❤ climbing!? Never heard of it! What’s that?”
Royal Robbins and Yvon Chouinard in the early years.
Please don't remove this material , I think that one of the climbers is Ivon Chouinard , one leyend .
Seen this because of the Messner Film which has clips of cool climbing films. Dont climb though. l think these guys are crazy, but the vids are fascinating!
Great
Wonder how many climbers fell wearing a swami belt back in the day & were severely injured. Like the old lap seat belt it may have saved your life but you still likely sustained serious injuries.
Why is there morning sun on the West Face of Sentinel?
artistic license ;-)
great film. what are the names of these two climbers? thank you
Yvon Chouinard
and Royal Robbins.
Didn't see them climb the dogleg
I think im gonna just buy a van and drive around having adventures. Rather actually live life to the fullest like these guys while im young and be poor when im old. Whats the point of having money if you cant live your dreams.
As an old guy who lived his dreams while young and is now poor - I urge you to try to provide for the older years when you’ll need some money lol.
I wouldn’t have given up any one of my adventures, but shoulda started saving in my youth, consistently over the years, to ensure at least some security. Although I’ve loved my life, it’s hard to pay rent and buy groceries on memories. ✌🏼
These guys both became wealthy selling outdoor gear and clothing.
Royal Robbins and Steve Roper?
Robbins and Chouinard
@@anthonyjulianelle6695 Thanks!
what was the Spanish song named?
what if they lose the hammer :|
Look it is fastened on with a cord.
Then they share the spare.
@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 Ask Pratt or Frost or Brown to loan them one? (I'm glad to see the crew got credit.)
OMG, fucking hilarious. Those goofy-ass knickers and knee socks. Did they think they were Swiss climbing the Matterhorn circa 1900? The dude wearing the passe white golf cap looks like my old dead pal Royal. Talk about the evolution of climbing. All those Lost Arrows and bongs laid out on that tarp. I last used any version of a piton over 50 years ago. And that old school way of making a waist harness. Thanks for this amusing walk back into my distant past.