Appreciate the vidoes man, they're are super well done! Just picked up my first sled, a 1992 skidoo formula MX. I'm not great with motors so appreciate your detail!
Just did mine used a torch tip cleaner down holes one whole can of brake cleaner to clean got so much more build up out dont think it's ever been clean.. didnt know about slide so am going to check to see if its sliding at the same point. Nice to know now how to adjust them thanks.
Excellent video! This was very helpful and saved me a ton of reading/research. I'm working on a 98 Skidoo 380 Touring E, and one carburetor is bad. I bought another one which works fine except one of the air vents is plugged. Can a carburetor work ok with only one of the vents functioning?
Maybe try some silicone spray, shot of whiskey, get your hand in between the air box and tank and push like hell! Lol but seriously if the rubber has shrunk maybe you’ll need to buy new boots. Or try a heat gun and get the rubber warm and push. This one went on a little stiff but with the correct tongue placement it went right on! Hope you get it!
@@ToyShopRestorations , 🤣, I prefer scotch. I have a 99 600 Summit and there’s just so much crap in the way. I checked the carb fit into the boots, definitely no problem there. It’s just a frustrating process.
@@ToyShopRestorations fuel lines breaking or anything rusty. It's been sitting for a good 4 years, I had trouble with the filter box itself and seemed tedious to attempt without instructions
@@angelaguirre2725 hopefully there isn’t much rusty on it as it’s mostly plastic and aluminum. The air box is just the center strap between the carbs. Once that’s off the air box just pushes back. The top of the carbs you only break loose and unscrew the big aluminum cap. Don’t touch the steel nut and threaded piece on top of the cap. Then for fuel lines a good trick is to get fuels lines to twist on the bung before trying to pull it off. Fuel line is cheap anywhere you buy parts for sleds. Never a bad idea to replace iffy fuel lines anyways. Then there’s the clamp on the intake boot on the engine side of the carb. Other than that I think that’s all. Hopefully that helped. Sorry I don’t have the sled anymore and I’m going just off of memory 😅
It’s never a bad idea. I would clean and reuse all the original jets but you might find something inside that looks bad that would need replaced. I personally don’t buy the kit first but if I get into a carb and realize I need something replaced then usually I’ll just wait it out and get the kit coming. If you’re new at doing carbs then I’d reassemble it while it’s fresh in your head and then wait for parts to come in then tear it apart again.
What size needle and seat. Dennis Kirk says two different part numbers. One is vm 28 511 1.5. The other is vm 28 163 1.5. What’s the difference. Mine are rubber tipped and one is torn. 1994 skidoo 670 40 mm
I’m not going to be much help here. I did a little googling and it’s possible if you google “1994 skidoo 670 carb specs” you can find a forum and read thru it. “Dootalk.com” seemed to be pretty decent when I just googled it
Another option is I know when I was working in a shop my boss had a little book and it had a ton of specs for all the skidoos in the 90’s. If you maybe went to a local shop and mention a little book maybe an older tech would have one? Kind of a long shot but figured I’d bring it up.
It looks like this www.ebay.com/itm/334534481410?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=6v0_LXn6TpG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=39xyh32ctx6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Check to see if the pilots and main jets are the same. If they are then it’s probably less relevant. But if they’re not then you might need to do some digging 😅
Sometimes the jets are different between the cylinders from the factory. You can double check that the jets are the same. If they are then technically it doesn’t matter. But still you want to try to keep it the way it was.
@@ToyShopRestorations yeah it’s soaked. It’s fouls plugs immediately. Brand new ones fire for a minute then foul. A fouled plug won’t spark that’s why it’s fouled.
@@tylerseabook9423 take the fouled plug and put it on the other of the motor and see if it will spark. Maybe it’s an intermittent spark issue? Hard to diagnose over comments lol I hope you get it going!
I just watched this and your chaincase vid.
Best videos on this yet! You have helped me with 97 formula s 380 and my formula touring e380.
That’s awesome to hear! I’m glad these videos helped you! Braap!! ✊
Just bought my first snowmobile, 1997 Ski Doo 500 Deluxe, this is exactly what I needed. Thank you!
That’s awesome!! Congrats! I hope you get out there and put some miles on it!! BRAAAP! ✊
Im here
Appreciate the vidoes man, they're are super well done! Just picked up my first sled, a 1992 skidoo formula MX. I'm not great with motors so appreciate your detail!
That means a lot dude! I appreciate you letting me know! I hope it all works out and you can get out there have some fun! BRAAP! ✊
Excellent Video brother
Thank you!
"Thingamagigie doodad mabober" words of the year
At first I thought this comment was spam until I actually read it lol I wasn’t sure the actual names of those parts. 😂
I have a SkiDoo Scandic 337, model 1993. Excellent video and helped me a lot to clean my carbs.
Excellent video! Please Keep Up! Subscribed 🤩👍
Thank you! I’m trying! Lol
nice video! thanks
nice video. thanx
Just did mine used a torch tip cleaner down holes one whole can of brake cleaner to clean got so much more build up out dont think it's ever been clean.. didnt know about slide so am going to check to see if its sliding at the same point. Nice to know now how to adjust them thanks.
No problem! Be careful with torch tip drills tho. You run the risk of taking material out of the jet and it’ll run way too rich!
Excellent video! This was very helpful and saved me a ton of reading/research. I'm working on a 98 Skidoo 380 Touring E, and one carburetor is bad. I bought another one which works fine except one of the air vents is plugged. Can a carburetor work ok with only one of the vents functioning?
Hmmm I’m not sure 🤔 if it’s the overflow vent line then I’d think it’s worth a shot 🤷🏻♂️
Great video! Do you have any tips on getting the blasted air box back on?
Maybe try some silicone spray, shot of whiskey, get your hand in between the air box and tank and push like hell! Lol but seriously if the rubber has shrunk maybe you’ll need to buy new boots. Or try a heat gun and get the rubber warm and push. This one went on a little stiff but with the correct tongue placement it went right on! Hope you get it!
@@ToyShopRestorations , 🤣, I prefer scotch. I have a 99 600 Summit and there’s just so much crap in the way. I checked the carb fit into the boots, definitely no problem there. It’s just a frustrating process.
You don't happen to have a spare set of those sitting around? Ive looked everywhere on the internet and cant find them
Carbs? Thats a negative ghost rider 😬
Hey great video man. have you got one of where you remove them from the sled I'm afraid to bend or break something important
I don’t 😅 I’m sorry. Anything in particular you’re nervous about?
@@ToyShopRestorations fuel lines breaking or anything rusty. It's been sitting for a good 4 years, I had trouble with the filter box itself and seemed tedious to attempt without instructions
@@angelaguirre2725 hopefully there isn’t much rusty on it as it’s mostly plastic and aluminum. The air box is just the center strap between the carbs. Once that’s off the air box just pushes back. The top of the carbs you only break loose and unscrew the big aluminum cap. Don’t touch the steel nut and threaded piece on top of the cap. Then for fuel lines a good trick is to get fuels lines to twist on the bung before trying to pull it off. Fuel line is cheap anywhere you buy parts for sleds. Never a bad idea to replace iffy fuel lines anyways. Then there’s the clamp on the intake boot on the engine side of the carb. Other than that I think that’s all. Hopefully that helped. Sorry I don’t have the sled anymore and I’m going just off of memory 😅
@@ToyShopRestorations thanks mate we don't have many mechanic for snowmobile out here there's is just corn fields
@@angelaguirre2725 where you from?! Roughly lol
Should I buy a carb kit incase bad gaskets I might find?
It’s never a bad idea. I would clean and reuse all the original jets but you might find something inside that looks bad that would need replaced. I personally don’t buy the kit first but if I get into a carb and realize I need something replaced then usually I’ll just wait it out and get the kit coming. If you’re new at doing carbs then I’d reassemble it while it’s fresh in your head and then wait for parts to come in then tear it apart again.
what do you do with the upper parts? Need to chance something?
I’m not sure what you’re asking
@@ToyShopRestorations sorry! I meant the upper part with the spring and the Needle. The part that you removed before doing the carburetor cleaning.
What size needle and seat. Dennis Kirk says two different part numbers. One is vm 28 511 1.5. The other is vm 28 163 1.5. What’s the difference. Mine are rubber tipped and one is torn. 1994 skidoo 670 40 mm
I’m not going to be much help here. I did a little googling and it’s possible if you google “1994 skidoo 670 carb specs” you can find a forum and read thru it. “Dootalk.com” seemed to be pretty decent when I just googled it
Another option is I know when I was working in a shop my boss had a little book and it had a ton of specs for all the skidoos in the 90’s. If you maybe went to a local shop and mention a little book maybe an older tech would have one? Kind of a long shot but figured I’d bring it up.
It looks like this
www.ebay.com/itm/334534481410?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=6v0_LXn6TpG&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=39xyh32ctx6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Any suggestions if I didn't mark which carb came off which side? 95 SS 670
Check to see if the pilots and main jets are the same. If they are then it’s probably less relevant. But if they’re not then you might need to do some digging 😅
Why does which side matter? My sled keeps fouling the clutch side plug
Sometimes the jets are different between the cylinders from the factory. You can double check that the jets are the same. If they are then technically it doesn’t matter. But still you want to try to keep it the way it was.
@@ToyShopRestorations I put it back the way it came but this turd just keeps fouling pto side plugs immediately
@@tylerseabook9423 is it wet? Do you have spark? What do you mean by fouled?
@@ToyShopRestorations yeah it’s soaked. It’s fouls plugs immediately. Brand new ones fire for a minute then foul. A fouled plug won’t spark that’s why it’s fouled.
@@tylerseabook9423 take the fouled plug and put it on the other of the motor and see if it will spark. Maybe it’s an intermittent spark issue? Hard to diagnose over comments lol I hope you get it going!