The infill for the bed could be a piece of wood with the foam attached and covered with fabric on the front and sides (like a chair bottom) and could be used as the bench back for the long end. When you want to use the area for sleeping, the back would just sit on top of the lowered table. So it would always be in use, either as a bench back or the infill for the bed. You would make it in two pieces. One the size of the infill, the other to make up the rest of the bench. For the permanent table top, you could actually have two smaller fun shapes with a splint down the middle. Irregular in shape attached in an off-center way to the inner, telescoping pipe that could ROTATE when you remove the pin. Basically having two settings - one close to the bench and one farther away, split it into two separate table top so you can have a raised one and a lower one. As for the inner pipe, you can use pvc pipe for the telescoping part so as not to add too much weight.
Most narrow boats nowadays use two ‘desmo’ legs which slot into a cup recessed into the floor and are much lighter than the one you have. You can also get different lengths to accommodate a table or a bed height. The table size needs to be the same as the bed space. You’ll find when you sit down that it allows room to get in and out with no problems. It doesn’t overlap the seating as you seem to think. By having two legs of the same length, you can either have a full size table (two legs) or a smaller half size table coffee table (one leg) Legs and tables can be stored under the gunwales so that they are out of the way when not needed. This retains the free space you have at times other than meals. Just a thought. Cheers Les and Anne on Glendyne
Ideally the post by itself would be good if you could slide into the base The base could be the present attachment but turned around and recessed into the floor.
I would go with two poles James and do it so the table turns round one side round for going in as to bed and the other side for sitting so you can turn the table putting it on tlx don't know if this is any any good
Two sets of legs. Cut the existing tube into two pieces. Short one to bring table top level with seat, longer one to raise it to table height. Put the legs off centre of the table, and rotate it to the required position. Job's a good 'un. Next question? All the best, mate.
Agree with Sarky, set the post offset from the centre and rotate the top to table or bed position, for the height id go for the tube inside method with a pin to set the height.
Ayye Captain ! Thou dost have revived my suggestion. In the end ….it requires a (squared) tubular base unit with top openings on the outer vertical posts. The diameter of the steel tube need not be great. You then insert smaller posts into the larger outer posts. These smaller posts act as the four table legs. The base is the shape of a rectangular box. It is screwed to the floor with six screws each side of the long sides of the box shape. IOE the screws run along bow to stern in orientation. Super stable… not too heavy. The base is “bed height”. I reckon that this is the simplest design. Just bring your measurements and the tubular material to a welder. In this design…I am confident Captain. Cheers 🥂
I’m not sure you need a smaller table, if it’s too small then it would feel too far away when sat down. Think about where your chair is when you’re sat at a table, normally the edge of the table and the front of the chair are in line or even the chair is under slightly. I’ve used dinettes where the bed and the table are the same piece of timber and it was fine.
I agree completely CA. I've just finished fitting out our 58' narrowboat. Both dinette and sofas convert to beds and the table tops are the correct size for the bed inserts. they are supported on Desmo legs which have wide circular connections to the table top/infill and floor so it's all stable in all directions. James, if you want more info, see photos, chat on phone, visit my boat currently in Welton Haven Marina, drop me a message. However you go, make it simple - think ahead. Cheers, Keith.
IKEA has adjustable table legs. Since your boat doesn’t heel like our sailboat a table that can move around might come in handy. Just a thought. Also saw some adjustable pedestal bases on Amazon. Both are far cheaper than chandler prices.
If the table top is connected to the legs “off centre” across and lengthwise it would be away from you when it’s a table and in line with the seat when turned 180 degrees. As a table top it would sit further in to the corridor and slightly more toward the kitchen
Howdy James. In our Van we had a single post and it was flimsy to say the least. The table top was the base for the dinette bed. What ever you do make sure the post or posts are firmly in place with no movement- safety first. Keith.
Leisure lines sell a metal freestanding support that folds to bed height. I have two left over from German Demountable Campers and they were very effective stable table and bed support without having to affix anything to the floor.
Do you even need to bolt the sockets onto the vertical pipe? Is it not snug enough without the bolts to stop it wobbling; then you could just swap out different vertical pipes easily to change height.
Do you have enough length in that tube to make two different lengths of pipe, one for the bed set up and the other for the table set up. Not sure how high you need table but with you may just have enough length to cut it into two sections one short for bed and one long for table. Quick release bolts..
I think that you may wind up with a trip hazard with that pole fitting unless you always leave the tabletop in or the be made. Over in the US we would probably use a taper lock floor fitting with different height poles if we didn't want the adjustable. or you might see if you could mount it upside down with the upright portion extending into the bilge you would have to cap off the end to allow the post to just socket into place? Just some thoughts
If you look at RV tables that are used for that, they pretty much line up with the edge of the benches, so I think that would be fine. I like the 2 legs idea, and 2 tubes for each, high and low
You should have enough tube there to make two legs of the correct length for bed and table height. Screw the base to the floor for stability but have the collar at the top offset on the board so you can swivel it round to the correct position for bed base and table. When it's set up as a bed base, to convert it to a table you remove the board, swap to the longer leg and refit the board turned round 180 degrees so the offset collar spaces it away from the dinette by the correct amount.
if you cut the pipe to height needed for bed will remaining pipe be long enough to be right height for table if so just need to mount bottom mount and swop as needed for bed
James, have you tried to buy your parts from a RV {caravan to you} shop instead. In Canada RV parts would be the same as what you by at the marine shop but with less cost. Just an idea that might be less cost for you.
The only random thought I had was to have the larger bed-slab on one end and the smaller table slab on the other and just flip it over as needed using the opposite side as a base. Doesn't factor in telescopic factor though. The other thought (re: telescoping) is you could get a pipe coupler (PVC?) and cut one piece of pipe to the height of the bed, and the other the difference of the height of the table and just set it in the coupler to connect. Could be a wobbly table though, or a P.I.T.A. to get apart if it's a tighter fit.
Have you thought about being able to walk past it when it’s in table mode. Also you will need the ‘table top’ to move up and down as you’ll break you’re back as it’ll be too low. Also if you use a bolt through the pipe so you can adjust the hight, it will be that bolt that will bear the weight.
Hi James don’t forget the height of your seating cushions when working out your ideal height for the tabIe. I presume the cushions will be made from dense foam as it will be used as a bed as well.👍🏼 I would go with a pipe inside your stand and set holes in tube for table height or bed height with a pin going through the tubes at the height required to fix in place.
From an engineering point of view, use 2 supports, the length of pipe should by look of it be all you need for both bed support and table top. The pipe bottoms out in those end brackets so pipe doesn't need internal sleeve the rest is up to you how you want it James.
You could build a wooden base….essentially a rectangular or cubical box which is the proper height for bed extension support. This base can be removable by securing it with a clever latch system to the floor. Now for part two: From this base …you now have multiple options for a table support system. It can be four small metal pipes which slide into larger metal pipes imbedded in the base. Quickly dropped in… quickly pulled up. The table top is the third component. It has flour flanges that receive the four pipes. All components are removable. Total stability … total removability … and potential additional storage. Return the pipe and get your money back. Cheers 🥂 PS: If this is too cumbersome then use a tubular metal system like a school desk which features two metal feet screwed to the floor. Each foot is a tubular pipe (square pipe) measuring around two feet. Then two upright tubular sections rise to attain “bed height”. Contained in the upright tubular sections is a smaller tubular pipe which is cranked up to attain “table height” some companies specialize in this but it can be pricey. If neither of these options fits the bill …then keep your pipe captain.
James, how about you put two stands side-by-side left and right at bed height with the head screwed to the bed platform extenssion.then when you want it to be a table, you lift the bed platform with the two head units off the pedestals and switch to a table unit top that is the side you want it. You would have two new shafts cut to put the table top at the right height and the shafts would slide into the base units for the bed platform? This way you would have two pipe units for the bed and two pipe units for table head. I do not know how too draw items for the computer so I must try to describe with words.
Hi James. You have some great ideas for your table etc from many better qualified than I to advise. If I was you I would go for the purpose built leg from the Chandler leaving your talent to focus on the top be it in oak or surf board. I would certainly top up your budget to purchase the above mentioned leg. I admire all you have done so far and how you always include your children's needs in your planning. My best wishes, "hope your well". Anthony.
Pole in a pole sounds like a plan but will one leg do as my kids are crazy at dinner times. Maybe cut that in to 2. Legs and just do a Quick release grommets /hex bolts and it will become like you did say but maybe 2 legs
do you have enough room between the floor and hull for the height differential (table /Bed base) a smaller diameter tube as a sliding support with locating pins.
Do you need grub screws in the bottom bracket - if not, you can then easily slide out the longer leg and replace with the shorter one withoout undoing any fixings.
But battens on the bench for the bed top to lay on in the edges and you'll only need one leg instead of two mounts, two legs, just one short leg for bed and one longer leg for table.
The first thought; add an opening(s) in the floor just large enough to add support structure under the floor to fasten down the legs base, make cover plate(s) with hole for the leg (preferably, flush with floor) to cover the openings. Attach the upper leg mount to panel that will fill in remaining area of the bed deck. Make removable table top(with locating pins) to fit slightly larger onto bed deck panel with locks like you used on hatches. Have upper tube welded to smaller outside diameter tube and add support pins so table height is comfortable. Modify legs so lower section is cut down to allow bed deck panel (without table top) to be level with dinette seat (for sleeping). Well that's all off the top of my head, obviously your well past this stage so I'm curious of your solution. Good luck. ;-)
If you look at this video you'll see that the bed /table can be the same piece & size - you won't be cut in half. I think your smart looking design constrains the solution. Use 60mm base tube with 50mm, say, inside. When needing the bed use your quick release grub screws to drop it down to the required height with a bolt through to hold at right height. An infill mattress will not damage your table top.
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt Yes , my fix is satisfying . I will have to be more patient in future!! Your so busy still building the boat, a full time job and two family's to take care of you do deserve respect and a large following. Hope your well currently and have many "happy days" ahead. Regards. A.
Cut the tube at the right height for the bed and fix the the socket to the middle of the bed. Then buy another socket and fix it next to the one you fitted under the bed …. With a short length of the tube fixed in it and a collar sticking out of it that fits inside the tube fixed to the floor. So basically you can lift the bed off the pole and drop it on the longer off set pole that is permanently attached under the bed thus making the table higher and a bit further away from the seat . The short tube attached under the table should be just clear of the floor when it’s in bed mode . Hard to explain really.. so two sockets under the table one with a short tube with smaller tube poking out and one socket on the floor with a tube fixed in. When you lift the table up you just drop the Tubes one on top of the other…. 🤪
Measure how much higher the table is than the bed…if that measurement is less than the distance between the floor and the bottom of the bed the extension tube can stay permanently attached to the second offset socket under the table. You just need a smaller tube fitted so the two tubes can drop into each other in table mode. With one leg the table can swivel where the two tube slide in to each other for ease of seat access 👌
Cut that leg in half so that you have two legs with feet flanges. Get some pipe to fit inside lower tube to use as an adjuster to lift to required table height and secure with through pins. You may need to cut both lower pipes to bed height when you have table top fitted. The bed and table will both be more stable with two legs rather than one.
You said you didn’t like the top access to the lockers so why not change them to drawers which even pulled out would support a bed board - this could store behind. Then have a small foldable table. Permanent tables take up so much space
Just go with two poles easier , as for the table top look in the bargain pages facebook market place etc for a kitchen table and cut it down , i,ve brought a pine wardrobe just for the wood
Cut in half. You have the floor post. They will most likely end up 16" high. Get a post to slide (sleeve) in side. Add a leaf to the non bench side. It will be nice. Your only going to raise it 10". Drill holes with pull pins to adjust. The bases will be fine with large lag bolts. You could probably get nuts on there from your wine locker. Lol!
I guess you need the the adjustment to be from 17” to 27” And allow 1 “ for plywood top. If you had some thick threaded rod, you could have someone weld a large nut on the pipe section that the threaded rod could run through and if you had a round table mounted onto the top of the threaded rod, and you would weld the top of the threaded rod to table support. Then you could spin the table to adjust the height but that would constrain the table to be kind of small.
I think you are over complicating things. Most narrow boats nowadays use ‘Desmo’ legs which slot into ‘cups’ set into the floor (so no trip hazard). Also they are removable and can be stowed under the gunnel with the table/s when not needed. This keeps the space free when not eating. You could have two tables (full size one for meals and half size one for coffee, etc). You will find that a table the same area as that of a bed base will not cause problems. Remember your legs will go under it but it doesn’t come back against your chest. Just a thought. Cheers Les and Anne on Glendyne
Yes go with two poles your going to scream and cry when you stub your toes on that.....believe me you will come into contact with it at some point...unless your going to counter sink it ......
I'm watching and fascinated, as always. I am complete and TOTAL rubbish as far as figuring out how to build what you are trying to. I only know it'll be clever and amazing when you finish each project. So, as your #1 cheerleader ( perhaps #2, after Carol), I say carry on and well done! -Leigh
I hope all is well there. Just a little concerned that we haven't heard from you in several days. Stay safe, James. -Leigh
The infill for the bed could be a piece of wood with the foam attached and covered with fabric on the front and sides (like a chair bottom) and could be used as the bench back for the long end. When you want to use the area for sleeping, the back would just sit on top of the lowered table. So it would always be in use, either as a bench back or the infill for the bed. You would make it in two pieces. One the size of the infill, the other to make up the rest of the bench. For the permanent table top, you could actually have two smaller fun shapes with a splint down the middle. Irregular in shape attached in an off-center way to the inner, telescoping pipe that could ROTATE when you remove the pin. Basically having two settings - one close to the bench and one farther away, split it into two separate table top so you can have a raised one and a lower one. As for the inner pipe, you can use pvc pipe for the telescoping part so as not to add too much weight.
Most narrow boats nowadays use two ‘desmo’ legs which slot into a cup recessed into the floor and are much lighter than the one you have. You can also get different lengths to accommodate a table or a bed height.
The table size needs to be the same as the bed space. You’ll find when you sit down that it allows room to get in and out with no problems. It doesn’t overlap the seating as you seem to think.
By having two legs of the same length, you can either have a full size table (two legs) or a smaller half size table coffee table (one leg)
Legs and tables can be stored under the gunwales so that they are out of the way when not needed. This retains the free space you have at times other than meals.
Just a thought.
Cheers
Les and Anne on Glendyne
Ideally the post by itself would be good if you could slide into the base The base could be the present attachment but turned around and recessed into the floor.
Where is James? Is he okay?
Two Legs Or Not Two Legs, That is the question. Top Dilema creating Young James :-)
good vid will work well four your tabel thanks lee
I would go with two poles James and do it so the table turns round one side round for going in as to bed and the other side for sitting so you can turn the table putting it on tlx don't know if this is any any good
I would go with the two lengths, if you put tube inside you would get so much movement in the table it would drive you crazy.
Two sets of legs. Cut the existing tube into two pieces. Short one to bring table top level with seat, longer one to raise it to table height.
Put the legs off centre of the table, and rotate it to the required position. Job's a good 'un. Next question?
All the best, mate.
I like this solution better.
This.
Or throw the tube in the cut for the magnet fishermen and go buy the 400 gbp leg.
I like this idea too
Agree with Sarky, set the post offset from the centre and rotate the top to table or bed position, for the height id go for the tube inside method with a pin to set the height.
Ayye Captain ! Thou dost have revived my suggestion. In the end ….it requires a (squared) tubular base unit with top openings on the outer vertical posts. The diameter of the steel tube need not be great. You then insert smaller posts into the larger outer posts. These smaller posts act as the four table legs. The base is the shape of a rectangular box. It is screwed to the floor with six screws each side of the long sides of the box shape. IOE the screws run along bow to stern in orientation. Super stable… not too heavy.
The base is “bed height”. I reckon that this is the simplest design. Just bring your measurements and the tubular material to a welder.
In this design…I am confident Captain.
Cheers 🥂
I’m not sure you need a smaller table, if it’s too small then it would feel too far away when sat down. Think about where your chair is when you’re sat at a table, normally the edge of the table and the front of the chair are in line or even the chair is under slightly. I’ve used dinettes where the bed and the table are the same piece of timber and it was fine.
I agree completely CA. I've just finished fitting out our 58' narrowboat. Both dinette and sofas convert to beds and the table tops are the correct size for the bed inserts. they are supported on Desmo legs which have wide circular connections to the table top/infill and floor so it's all stable in all directions. James, if you want more info, see photos, chat on phone, visit my boat currently in Welton Haven Marina, drop me a message. However you go, make it simple - think ahead.
Cheers, Keith.
IKEA has adjustable table legs. Since your boat doesn’t heel like our sailboat a table that can move around might come in handy. Just a thought.
Also saw some adjustable pedestal bases on Amazon.
Both are far cheaper than chandler prices.
If the table top is connected to the legs “off centre” across and lengthwise it would be away from you when it’s a table and in line with the seat when turned 180 degrees. As a table top it would sit further in to the corridor and slightly more toward the kitchen
Howdy James. In our Van we had a single post and it was flimsy to say the least. The table top was the base for the dinette bed. What ever you do make sure the post or posts are firmly in place with no movement- safety first. Keith.
Leisure lines sell a metal freestanding support that folds to bed height. I have two left over from German Demountable Campers and they were very effective stable table and bed support without having to affix anything to the floor.
Do you even need to bolt the sockets onto the vertical pipe? Is it not snug enough without the bolts to stop it wobbling; then you could just swap out different vertical pipes easily to change height.
Do you have enough length in that tube to make two different lengths of pipe, one for the bed set up and the other for the table set up. Not sure how high you need table but with you may just have enough length to cut it into two sections one short for bed and one long for table. Quick release bolts..
The tabletop can be made in two sections so it folds down so that gives you access to bedroom et cetera then just put it up when needed
I think that you may wind up with a trip hazard with that pole fitting unless you always leave the tabletop in or the be made. Over in the US we would probably use a taper lock floor fitting with different height poles if we didn't want the adjustable. or you might see if you could mount it upside down with the upright portion extending into the bilge you would have to cap off the end to allow the post to just socket into place? Just some thoughts
Not sure about adjustment but if it's going to be a permanent feature,put the base plate under the floor and bolt to it for neatness
Bed base on top of table and pole within pole
If you look at RV tables that are used for that, they pretty much line up with the edge of the benches, so I think that would be fine. I like the 2 legs idea, and 2 tubes for each, high and low
Why not have camper van table legs 🤔
You should have enough tube there to make two legs of the correct length for bed and table height. Screw the base to the floor for stability but have the collar at the top offset on the board so you can swivel it round to the correct position for bed base and table. When it's set up as a bed base, to convert it to a table you remove the board, swap to the longer leg and refit the board turned round 180 degrees so the offset collar spaces it away from the dinette by the correct amount.
Modified Acrow prop with an offset table top.
if you cut the pipe to height needed for bed will remaining pipe be long enough to be right height for table if so just need to mount bottom mount and swop as needed for bed
James, have you tried to buy your parts from a RV {caravan to you} shop instead. In Canada RV parts would be the same as what you by at the marine shop but with less cost. Just an idea that might be less cost for you.
The only random thought I had was to have the larger bed-slab on one end and the smaller table slab on the other and just flip it over as needed using the opposite side as a base. Doesn't factor in telescopic factor though. The other thought (re: telescoping) is you could get a pipe coupler (PVC?) and cut one piece of pipe to the height of the bed, and the other the difference of the height of the table and just set it in the coupler to connect. Could be a wobbly table though, or a P.I.T.A. to get apart if it's a tighter fit.
You could use the base from an adjustable bar stool
Have you thought about being able to walk past it when it’s in table mode. Also you will need the ‘table top’ to move up and down as you’ll break you’re back as it’ll be too low. Also if you use a bolt through the pipe so you can adjust the hight, it will be that bolt that will bear the weight.
Hi James don’t forget the height of your seating cushions when working out your ideal height for the tabIe. I presume the cushions will be made from dense foam as it will be used as a bed as well.👍🏼 I would go with a pipe inside your stand and set holes in tube for table height or bed height with a pin going through the tubes at the height required to fix in place.
Nope, I've got nothing. Luckily your other subscribers seem to have a clearer idea of what's needed. Looking forward to seeing the end result.
From an engineering point of view, use 2 supports, the length of pipe should by look of it be all you need for both bed support and table top. The pipe bottoms out in those end brackets so pipe doesn't need internal sleeve the rest is up to you how you want it James.
You could build a wooden base….essentially a rectangular or cubical box which is the proper height for bed extension support. This base can be removable by securing it with a clever latch system to the floor.
Now for part two: From this base …you now have multiple options for a table support system. It can be four small metal pipes which slide into larger metal pipes imbedded in the base. Quickly dropped in… quickly pulled up. The table top is the third component. It has flour flanges that receive the four pipes. All components are removable. Total stability … total removability … and potential additional storage. Return the pipe and get your money back.
Cheers 🥂
PS: If this is too cumbersome then use a tubular metal system like a school desk which features two metal feet screwed to the floor. Each foot is a tubular pipe (square pipe) measuring around two feet. Then two upright tubular sections rise to attain “bed height”. Contained in the upright tubular sections is a smaller tubular pipe which is cranked up to attain “table height” some companies specialize in this but it can be pricey.
If neither of these options fits the bill …then keep your pipe captain.
James, how about you put two stands side-by-side left and right at bed height with the head screwed to the bed platform extenssion.then when you want it to be a table, you lift the bed platform with the two head units off the pedestals and switch to a table unit top that is the side you want it. You would have two new shafts cut to put the table top at the right height and the shafts would slide into the base units for the bed platform? This way you would have two pipe units for the bed and two pipe units for table head. I do not know how too draw items for the computer so I must try to describe with words.
If there is room Below the floor and not to much diverance between bed and table you could bolt it to the floor and slide it throug the bottom clamp?
I don't know why !!! but Ironing boards have adjustable positions, Not an ironing board obviously, but some sort of adjustable collapsible thingy.
Hi James. You have some great ideas for your table etc from many better qualified than I to advise. If I was you I would go for the purpose built leg from the Chandler leaving your talent to focus on the top be it in oak or surf board. I would certainly top up your budget to purchase the above mentioned leg. I admire all you have done so far and how you always include your children's needs in your planning. My best wishes, "hope your well". Anthony.
It may not be clear that when I said top up your budget for a table leg I would do the financial top up personally. Regards. Anthony.
Pole in a pole sounds like a plan but will one leg do as my kids are crazy at dinner times. Maybe cut that in to 2. Legs and just do a Quick release grommets /hex bolts and it will become like you did say but maybe 2 legs
Many campers have such tables. Used tables?
do you have enough room between the floor and hull for the height differential (table /Bed base) a smaller diameter tube as a sliding support with locating pins.
Do you need grub screws in the bottom bracket - if not, you can then easily slide out the longer leg and replace with the shorter one withoout undoing any fixings.
But battens on the bench for the bed top to lay on in the edges and you'll only need one leg instead of two mounts, two legs, just one short leg for bed and one longer leg for table.
The first thought; add an opening(s) in the floor just large enough to add support structure under the floor to fasten down the legs base, make cover plate(s) with hole for the leg (preferably, flush with floor) to cover the openings.
Attach the upper leg mount to panel that will fill in remaining area of the bed deck.
Make removable table top(with locating pins) to fit slightly larger onto bed deck panel with locks like you used on hatches.
Have upper tube welded to smaller outside diameter tube and add support pins so table height is comfortable.
Modify legs so lower section is cut down to allow bed deck panel (without table top) to be level with dinette seat (for sleeping).
Well that's all off the top of my head, obviously your well past this stage so I'm curious of your solution.
Good luck. ;-)
If you are going to use inset leg supports look at the Sequoia system which does not protrude as much as alternatives like Fiamma
You can get legs from b and q that are lighter than that pole ! I used them to support my breakfast bar . X just a thought for you as an alternative
How will you make the bottom plate removable so you don't trip On it when not in use?
If you look at this video you'll see that the bed /table can be the same piece & size - you won't be cut in half. I think your smart looking design constrains the solution.
Use 60mm base tube with 50mm, say, inside. When needing the bed use your quick release grub screws to drop it down to the required height with a bolt through to hold at right height. An infill mattress will not damage your table top.
Hi James, hope your well? I am getting withdrawal symptoms having not seen a vlog from you long after expected ☹️
Sorry my friend - one went up last night though so hopefully that’ll give you your fix !
@@TheNarrowboatThatJamesBuilt Yes , my fix is satisfying . I will have to be more patient in future!! Your so busy still building the boat, a full time job and two family's to take care of you do deserve respect and a large following. Hope your well currently and have many "happy days" ahead. Regards. A.
Cut the tube at the right height for the bed and fix the the socket to the middle of the bed. Then buy another socket and fix it next to the one you fitted under the bed …. With a short length of the tube fixed in it and a collar sticking out of it that fits inside the tube fixed to the floor. So basically you can lift the bed off the pole and drop it on the longer off set pole that is permanently attached under the bed thus making the table higher and a bit further away from the seat . The short tube attached under the table should be just clear of the floor when it’s in bed mode . Hard to explain really.. so two sockets under the table one with a short tube with smaller tube poking out and one socket on the floor with a tube fixed in. When you lift the table up you just drop the Tubes one on top of the other…. 🤪
Measure how much higher the table is than the bed…if that measurement is less than the distance between the floor and the bottom of the bed the extension tube can stay permanently attached to the second offset socket under the table. You just need a smaller tube fitted so the two tubes can drop into each other in table mode. With one leg the table can swivel where the two tube slide in to each other for ease of seat access 👌
eBay have the boat legs and casings for £27.50 search island table leg set .. good luck 🤞
If you get another foot, you can have the foot a little more away from the dinette, so you can get in and out
That pole is supposed to stretch from the floor to the ceiling and it’s proper use is dancing. Sorry bro the joke was there.
That's why he wants it to be super sturdy.
Cut that leg in half so that you have two legs with feet flanges.
Get some pipe to fit inside lower tube to use as an adjuster to lift to required table height and secure with through pins.
You may need to cut both lower pipes to bed height when you have table top fitted.
The bed and table will both be more stable with two legs rather than one.
You said you didn’t like the top access to the lockers so why not change them to drawers which even pulled out would support a bed board - this could store behind. Then have a small foldable table. Permanent tables take up so much space
Just go with two poles easier , as for the table top look in the bargain pages facebook market place etc for a kitchen table and cut it down , i,ve brought a pine wardrobe just for the wood
Cut in half. You have the floor post. They will most likely end up 16" high. Get a post to slide (sleeve) in side. Add a leaf to the non bench side. It will be nice. Your only going to raise it 10". Drill holes with pull pins to adjust. The bases will be fine with large lag bolts. You could probably get nuts on there from your wine locker. Lol!
I guess you need the the adjustment to be from 17” to 27” And allow 1 “ for plywood top. If you had some thick threaded rod, you could have someone weld a large nut on the pipe section that the threaded rod could run through and if you had a round table mounted onto the top of the threaded rod, and you would weld the top of the threaded rod to table support. Then you could spin the table to adjust the height but that would constrain the table to be kind of small.
Smaller post inside with a swing arm
don't over think it , just have a flip up board with drop down legs made from wood for the bed and have a table what ever table u want to make
may be a table u can use out side as well as inside with out leaving some thing to trip over in the floor
U could use that pole out side with a tractor seat on it
I think you are over complicating things.
Most narrow boats nowadays use ‘Desmo’ legs which slot into ‘cups’ set into the floor (so no trip hazard).
Also they are removable and can be stowed under the gunnel with the table/s when not needed. This keeps the space free when not eating. You could have two tables (full size one for meals and half size one for coffee, etc).
You will find that a table the same area as that of a bed base will not cause problems. Remember your legs will go under it but it doesn’t come back against your chest.
Just a thought.
Cheers
Les and Anne on Glendyne
Yes go with two poles your going to scream and cry when you stub your toes on that.....believe me you will come into contact with it at some point...unless your going to counter sink it ......
I'm watching and fascinated, as always. I am complete and TOTAL rubbish as far as figuring out how to build what you are trying to. I only know it'll be clever and amazing when you finish each project. So, as your #1 cheerleader ( perhaps #2, after Carol), I say carry on and well done! -Leigh
I think you need to sleep on it ;-)
There’s better options.
More thinking time needed.
👍👌🇨🇦❤
Never heard of IKEA? They do these without all of your faffing about.