I had the kit installed about two weeks ago, and it's running well. I did get a tune from TuneZilla with the CP3 option to protect the injectors from spikes above 2000 bar, as I'm using the OE fuel pressure sensor in the fuel rail (which is for 2000 bar). The kit was easy to install. It was not necessary to grind any parts or modify any electrical plugs to install it.
47 nm seems pretty light for an M14 nut. Most applications in VW's catalog I can find say 60 nm for a nut that size. The original CP4, which is a much larger M18 nut, calls for 95 nm. We've seen a couple of the updated sprockets loosen up and start wobbling at only 47 nm.
@@dzelpwr I torqued mine to the spec listed above and it did indeed come loose. I will definitely be torquing it down to a spec closer to your recommendation. Did the wobbly updated sprockets do any damage to the shafts of the pump?
@@druiendowns2 on account of the aluminum being substantially softer than the steel on the shaft, I would say the only damage likely taken would be on the sprocket itself. The pump should be just fine.
I should also convert for us Yanks: 47 nm = 35 ft lbs 60 nm = 44 ft lbs 95 nm = 66 ft lbs If you have the old style hub adapter and are using your original outer sprocket with the M8 bolts to hold it on, those bolts should be torqued to 20 nm/15 ft-lbs.
I see people saying the CP3 R70 needs to have the auxiliary fuel pump deleted? On this case with BMW model retrofit it is advised to KEEP the cjaa TDI auxiliary pump right?
Any plans on developing a kit for the CVCA engines or will this kit work for them as well? I believe that part number 04L903143B for the bracket that fuel pump mounts to is the same for several years, just not sure if the kit would work the same for it. My car is a 2015 VW Jetta TDI engine code CVCA
Factory style Fuel like clamps and arp bolts would definitely be chefs kiss to this kit and would be worth the money to add as an option being something connected to the timing belt I’d sleep better at night. What are thread pitch and lengths of the bolts?
What are the torque specs for the hardware in this kit? Can’t seem to find them anywhere. Just picked up this kit and love the quality. Definitely one of the best out there. Will be installing in the next couple months. Hoping the install goes smoothly.
I got this kit through Cascade German and "successfully' installed it onto my 2011 VW Jetta TDI. The issue I'm running into is after about 2 miles, I'm getting a high rail pressure code (P0088). I'm trying to troubleshoot but keep running into dead-ends. Any suggestions on what I may be missing that you may have run into previously?
@IsaacFisher-vj6kc Kermatdi, but I was getting this code prior to the tune. I searched out a tune, thinking it would correct the issue I'm having. I'm not sure, but I think the metering valve may be faulty.
I’m having the same exact issue, with a Stevenson Tune and an MRTuning Tune. Replaced the metering valve and every other sensor in the fuel system. Can’t figure this one out
@@IamMonsterMan Did you drive yours with the stock tune? Mine seemingly idles fine and short test drives up and down the street but when I drove about 2 miles the connection between the return line to the injectors and the hard line to the cp3 pushed itself off the barbed connection and started spraying fuel across the car. I feel like I'm missing one small thing and keep going back through the steps and trying to narrow this down.
What do you do when the existing fuel line is in so tight, that vice grips wont even loosen it? Tried heating the aluminum around it slightly but it still isnt budging, its only rounded off all the splines and slipping. Tried heating the actual nipple slightly, still nothing.
I managed to get the factory installed fuel line removed after some forceful persuasion, but mangled up in the process. I was able to secure another fitting from Amazon to replace it. I'm not sure what the deal was with my pump , but it seemed like everything was way to tight from the factory. Had to hit the t50 torx plug and bottom fuel fitting with an impact driver just to get it loosened up. Might be easier to do so once it's mounted in the vehicle so you don't have to fight holding it still as you're trying to break them free. Either that or hold the pump in a vice. And I agree with another poster, spring clips for the fuel lines should be included, along with an actual instruction sheet with the kit, detailing torque specs for the pump to adapter bolts, torque specs for pump to engine bolts, fuel line fitting torque specs, and shaft nut torque spec. And I recommend applying loctite to all the fasteners. And there's no real good way to tighten the shaft nut without the spindle turning. I ended up tapping the adapter on with a mallet, threading in the old bolts into the adapter, and zipping the nut with a 1/4" impact driver while trying to hold the shaft in place. Hopefully it is locked down tight enough that it can't back off. But a full install video for us diy'er guys would be super useful. Bending the fuel line was tedious and took some time to perfect. Heating it up with a map torch made bending it a little easier. Hopefully no leaks. Haven't had the chance to prime the pump yet as I'm still wrapping up the timing belt install, so fingers crossed, but nothing's touching so we should be good there
@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc also, the original pump gear that bolts onto the hub adapter has a slightly larger inner diameter than your hub that I received. So, I'm going to have to shim it, 360°, to keep it running concentric to the shaft. The hub adapter should be slightly larger in diameter. I'll get measurements tomorrow to figure up total amount of slack I need to take up. But it's probably, close to 3-4 thousandths, or 1/16th of an inch, maybe a little more.
On some of the earlier kits the hub adapter was .5mm smaller then it should have been. I have a shim available if you want one. Most people don’t use one as the 3 bolts center the hub and bore most of the pressure on the original setup. The shim I have is a tpu band that goes around the new hub almost like a dampener.
@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc yes I would like one, or preferably, a properly sized hub. I'm not sure how the bolts would center the sprocket on the hub as they also have play inside the slots they go into. I can have all three bolts in the sprocket holding it onto the hub, without any front and back(or in and out, however you look at it)movement, and the sprocket can move completely off center, up and down, side to side, unless I just get extremely lucky with alignment during install. Without the proper size hub or a shim, it definitely would not be concentric and I foresee that could cause issues down the road such as vibrations, irregular belt wear because the belt would get tighter and looser depending on where the sprocket was at during that moment due to it's off center axis, and possibly other issues.
@@davidsmithers3353 I’m not sure where you’re getting $500 from. The price on the kit was $320. We’ve since sold the design to Cascade German. I believe they are selling them for $375 now due to increased cost on materials lately.
Wish this was a actual install video to follow. I mean I can probably get it installed from this video but would have been nice to watch.
I had the kit installed about two weeks ago, and it's running well. I did get a tune from TuneZilla with the CP3 option to protect the injectors from spikes above 2000 bar, as I'm using the OE fuel pressure sensor in the fuel rail (which is for 2000 bar). The kit was easy to install. It was not necessary to grind any parts or modify any electrical plugs to install it.
What cp3 pump did you get? Best way to find one?
This one in the video is sold bye cascade German and is a reputable company.
do a video of the full install
In response to the questions on torque specs the center nut for the timing gear is 47nm. The bolts for the pump and adapter should be around 18nm.
47 nm seems pretty light for an M14 nut.
Most applications in VW's catalog I can find say 60 nm for a nut that size.
The original CP4, which is a much larger M18 nut, calls for 95 nm.
We've seen a couple of the updated sprockets loosen up and start wobbling at only 47 nm.
@@dzelpwr I torqued mine to the spec listed above and it did indeed come loose. I will definitely be torquing it down to a spec closer to your recommendation. Did the wobbly updated sprockets do any damage to the shafts of the pump?
@@druiendowns2 on account of the aluminum being substantially softer than the steel on the shaft, I would say the only damage likely taken would be on the sprocket itself. The pump should be just fine.
I should also convert for us Yanks:
47 nm = 35 ft lbs
60 nm = 44 ft lbs
95 nm = 66 ft lbs
If you have the old style hub adapter and are using your original outer sprocket with the M8 bolts to hold it on, those bolts should be torqued to 20 nm/15 ft-lbs.
I see people saying the CP3 R70 needs to have the auxiliary fuel pump deleted? On this case with BMW model retrofit it is advised to KEEP the cjaa TDI auxiliary pump right?
The opening music is “face the truth” by Bleeding Wingnuts. I suggest checking them out.
Any plans on developing a kit for the CVCA engines or will this kit work for them as well? I believe that part number 04L903143B for the bracket that fuel pump mounts to is the same for several years, just not sure if the kit would work the same for it. My car is a 2015 VW Jetta TDI engine code CVCA
Do you know what version CP3 is being used? I tried to read the ID tag but it’s too far away. Thank you
Factory style Fuel like clamps and arp bolts would definitely be chefs kiss to this kit and would be worth the money to add as an option being something connected to the timing belt I’d sleep better at night. What are thread pitch and lengths of the bolts?
What are the torque specs for the hardware in this kit? Can’t seem to find them anywhere.
Just picked up this kit and love the quality. Definitely one of the best out there. Will be installing in the next couple months. Hoping the install goes smoothly.
What are the torque specs for all the hardware? Husband just got the kit to install but no torque specs.
I got this kit through Cascade German and "successfully' installed it onto my 2011 VW Jetta TDI. The issue I'm running into is after about 2 miles, I'm getting a high rail pressure code (P0088). I'm trying to troubleshoot but keep running into dead-ends. Any suggestions on what I may be missing that you may have run into previously?
What tune are you using. We’ve found that Malone/ tunezilla and diesel dna tunes will throw that code.
@IsaacFisher-vj6kc Kermatdi, but I was getting this code prior to the tune. I searched out a tune, thinking it would correct the issue I'm having. I'm not sure, but I think the metering valve may be faulty.
I’m having the same exact issue, with a Stevenson Tune and an MRTuning Tune. Replaced the metering valve and every other sensor in the fuel system. Can’t figure this one out
@@IamMonsterMan Did you drive yours with the stock tune? Mine seemingly idles fine and short test drives up and down the street but when I drove about 2 miles the connection between the return line to the injectors and the hard line to the cp3 pushed itself off the barbed connection and started spraying fuel across the car. I feel like I'm missing one small thing and keep going back through the steps and trying to narrow this down.
Wish the video showed exactly how he installed the CP3 So folks could be more certain of what they are doing.
Do you know when there will be more conversion kits available on your site?
These are currently available on cascade Germans website.
www.cascadegerman.com/product/vw-bmw-cp3-conversion-kit-cbea-cjaa-ckra/
Hey, can you tell if the 2015 needs the conversion?
Where can we order the CP3 pump or what model BMWs have these pumps?
The one in the video is sold bye Cascade German.
What do you do when the existing fuel line is in so tight, that vice grips wont even loosen it? Tried heating the aluminum around it slightly but it still isnt budging, its only rounded off all the splines and slipping. Tried heating the actual nipple slightly, still nothing.
I managed to get the factory installed fuel line removed after some forceful persuasion, but mangled up in the process. I was able to secure another fitting from Amazon to replace it. I'm not sure what the deal was with my pump , but it seemed like everything was way to tight from the factory. Had to hit the t50 torx plug and bottom fuel fitting with an impact driver just to get it loosened up. Might be easier to do so once it's mounted in the vehicle so you don't have to fight holding it still as you're trying to break them free. Either that or hold the pump in a vice.
And I agree with another poster, spring clips for the fuel lines should be included, along with an actual instruction sheet with the kit, detailing torque specs for the pump to adapter bolts, torque specs for pump to engine bolts, fuel line fitting torque specs, and shaft nut torque spec. And I recommend applying loctite to all the fasteners. And there's no real good way to tighten the shaft nut without the spindle turning. I ended up tapping the adapter on with a mallet, threading in the old bolts into the adapter, and zipping the nut with a 1/4" impact driver while trying to hold the shaft in place. Hopefully it is locked down tight enough that it can't back off. But a full install video for us diy'er guys would be super useful. Bending the fuel line was tedious and took some time to perfect. Heating it up with a map torch made bending it a little easier. Hopefully no leaks. Haven't had the chance to prime the pump yet as I'm still wrapping up the timing belt install, so fingers crossed, but nothing's touching so we should be good there
All those things are in the works. We hope to have a custom fuel like for the kits very soon.
@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc also, the original pump gear that bolts onto the hub adapter has a slightly larger inner diameter than your hub that I received. So, I'm going to have to shim it, 360°, to keep it running concentric to the shaft. The hub adapter should be slightly larger in diameter. I'll get measurements tomorrow to figure up total amount of slack I need to take up. But it's probably, close to 3-4 thousandths, or 1/16th of an inch, maybe a little more.
On some of the earlier kits the hub adapter was .5mm smaller then it should have been. I have a shim available if you want one. Most people don’t use one as the 3 bolts center the hub and bore most of the pressure on the original setup. The shim I have is a tpu band that goes around the new hub almost like a dampener.
@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc yes I would like one, or preferably, a properly sized hub.
I'm not sure how the bolts would center the sprocket on the hub as they also have play inside the slots they go into. I can have all three bolts in the sprocket holding it onto the hub, without any front and back(or in and out, however you look at it)movement, and the sprocket can move completely off center, up and down, side to side, unless I just get extremely lucky with alignment during install. Without the proper size hub or a shim, it definitely would not be concentric and I foresee that could cause issues down the road such as vibrations, irregular belt wear because the belt would get tighter and looser depending on where the sprocket was at during that moment due to it's off center axis, and possibly other issues.
Essa adaptação da para colocar na amarok 2013 pra cima ?
@@diorranyleite1913 I don’t know. We didn’t get the Amarok in my country. If it uses the same cp4 as the Cjaa engine then my guess would be yes.
Is the kit that is compatible with CRUA out yet?
We are still developing that. We hope to see it available in the next few weeks.
Is this a Full kit or just a piece kit?
Looks like full kit. More info on cascade German
$500 for 2 machined parts jeez
@@davidsmithers3353 I’m not sure where you’re getting $500 from. The price on the kit was $320. We’ve since sold the design to Cascade German. I believe they are selling them for $375 now due to increased cost on materials lately.
@@IsaacFisher-vj6kc Ckra + $130
Must be nice now they’re going for $900