Ported vs Stock Head & Connecting Rods - Making Bigport 4AGE great again - Part 4
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- Опубликовано: 15 сен 2024
- Dyno testing ported vs stock bigport heads & maxpeedingrods
Rods supplied by Maxpeeding rods:
15% off coupon code "garage4age"
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@d4a Rod measuring video • MaXpeedingRods - MACHI...
Engine spec in this vid:
Modified early bigport head
Late 7.1mm factory camshafts
Toda valve springs
Toda inlet cam gear
Redtop bigport block with 10.3:1 smallport pistons
Toda 3.7kg flywheel
Maxpeedingrods connecting rods
Garage 4age Header and 3" exhaust.
Link G4 ecu
47mm itb long runner.
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Insta : @garage4age
@Garage 4age
Hey everyone, long time no video. Have been busy & awaiting parts to get this engine back together. Will be one last vid in the "making bigport great again" series after this one. If you are coming in on this in the middle, or ive lost ya, there is some playlists on my channel page. One for the smallport version also. I may combine these all into one video at some stage, so easier for future reference. Will be back onto some less 4age specific stuff soon! As always if there is something you would like see tested, that doesnt blow my tiny budget, write it below.
Who do I keep spinning rod bearings? I'm using acl bearings with maxspeeding rods
Really love the series would be cool if you do a conclusion at the end. Like which is the setup with the most topend power. Or which has the best torque Curve. And which setup did you use to your conclusions
Edit: just wonders. What happens if u use itbs with tvis?
Nitrous... cheap and catchy!!!
Do some turbo testing with the different heads??
@@aergaetrhethaergertha2099 will be same results. if makes more power na will make more power turbo. until get into cams with a bit of overlap, they will start to do weird stuff on a turbo setup
Good to see you back at it. Would love to see how bad the tune is on my car.
It could be interesting to just make a test head, where you would fill the intake ports with epoxy and grind them so that with the valves open the intake duct is near straight past the valves.
Like on the Toyota Dynamic Force engine (and many others), but with short turn still existing and being 'functional'.
There would be very high tumble flow, but with (enough) overlap and without having any ridges etc. between the intake/exhaust valves, there will be a lot more air flow going straight to the exhaust port.
Thank you.
Excellent and simple work before/after.
First time i see a head before/after flowed/modified.
Oooh was wondering where u are, so glade you back
I get butterflies every time I see you've posted a new video. I must bloody love them, or something?
I'm glas you're back.
Ahhhh yes back with a banger.
glad to see youre back! cant wait to see the aftermarket cams in the bigport head to see how much power it can pull out! im planning a very similar build using smallport pistons with a bigport head.
Next vid will have cam upgrade
You is back :), good see you. I love your channel.
Awesome, those are my exact head work done. Now I can have an idea how she gonna be. Thanks mate.
Garage 4age what are your thoughts on the worked bigport head and the worked smallport head now that you have a baseline of both.
They look to be stacking up pretty much the same. Both using the same bolt on mods and cams. The smallport head I had on this engine, is at a slight bit of a disadvantage, as it was one of the first heads I modified. Have learnt a few tricks along the way, as you do. My advice to everyone would be, Avoid the late bigport head
@@Garage4age for the 240 7.56mm bigport cams, try advancing intake 4 degrees and advancing exhaust 3 degrees from stock settings see how she reacts to it.
good to be back
Hell yeah! Good to see you back boys.
My favourite lunatic is back. Good to see you.
CR still the same with new con rods? Perhaps they’d send you longer con rods to bump CR?
Haha thanks. Didn't do and super accurate measuring. but deck height was same. Had a bit of a skim taken off head to compensate for the material taken out of chambers. Not 100% science changing the rods at the same time as the head work. But wasn't going to pull it apart twice. I'm pretty confident that all or very close to it, were gains from the head work alone. Aim was to improve power without losing any down low.
Greetings from CT. I'm currently working with a local shop to change the stroked '89 MR2 4AGZE in my '85 GT-S coupe from the ported roots style SC12 that's on it to a twin screw style Whipple blower, probably a W100AX. My goal is to build the most powerful blown 4A I can. It's currently making 246whp@9200 at 12psi. I'm hoping to get 20-22 psi out of the screw blower, but it really depends on how much parasitic loss there will be. Def not everything, but the basics are a modded Manon head, Kelford cams and valve train, BC 1.8 stroker kit with 9:1 CP pistons, T3 high boost pulley & Martelius R1 header, testpipe & 2.5 inch race exhaust run through a Haltech Elite 750. I have a lot of T3's catalog on my vehicle & highly recommend their components. I'll give an update once something is in the works. Keep the great content coming. Always love seeing a fellow 4A addict out there.
sounds interesting, let me know how it goes!
@@Garage4age Will do. 👍
Wow crazy results. I dont know if it fits but ever though about the FE head? Seems like the shape of the fe is straighter into the champer even it is an eco head.
Would be interesting to see how they directly compare with good intake and exhaust setup. but lack of aftermarket, for cams and the likes doesnt really make them a good option
Would really enjoy a 4a-ge vs miata 1.8 shootout. From what I can see they are extremely similar in potential power output. Your 4a-ge vs a similarly modified 1.8 BP on the dyno could be a close race.
Docta is back!
👍
See if you can make it work as well on a speeduino ecu
maybe a wierd questions but why didn't you do the "7age conversion"
great video as always
7a not worth the cost for a cheap build imo. Better off spending the money on the right combo of parts, for the 4a. most 7a builds ive seen just pull the power down the curve a bit and don't really make much more power
@@Garage4age thx for the explanation 👍
Welcome back mate 😎
Do you think the lighter rods should warrant a rebalancing of the crank and rotating assembly?
Nice! I was missing your videos on my subscription list lately Hahahah
I've started with project and fabrication of camshafts on my own garage (CNC grinding) and I hope someday we can exchange some more info to make you a custom camshaft so you can test it there, if you're interested. Great job as always!
Sounds interesting! Keep me updated how you get on with it.
I am doing similar to you Lucas, 4age may be able to put us touch with one another ....am I allowed to list my mail address ?
Fuck the USO’s coming in with all the free gearz aye cobba
I think that crankshaft must be weight balance again after the rods weight reduction.
no you dont have to balance the crank with weights on inline 4 engines.
Sick gainz bro
Glad to see these rods being tested. I was looking at getting a set for my build and I've been hearing great reviews. How long is that code good for???
Not sure how long the code last tbh! I wanted to spin them up to at least 9k. but looking like power will fall over before then
next video, test maxspeeding rods turbo ? :D
👍
can you put me in touch with Lucas Mathias. Re : cams grinding ?? ta
The stock early bigport had installed the toda springs or stock? If that is the case, do you think the toda springs could help to the increase in performance in the modified head?
stock. not here no, the stock springs didnt show signs of valve float.
So on the video you mentioned this bottom end is pretty well set to hit 9k rpms-
Purely out of curiosity as a thought-game, what would it take in your experience for the bottom end to spin more? Say to 10k rpms?
9k is pretty easy. pick the right factory bottom end parts and add some arp rod bolts, fine for up to 9k. over 9k i would start looking at going through most of the parts in bottom end, oil pump, rods pistons, maybe a girdle. 10k rpm is cool, but imo isn't needed unless you are building an engine to do something specific. circuit work or the likes. To make it work and actually make power at those rpms, everything will need to be tuned to work at high rpm. which will end up with an engine that makes very little power under 6k rpm, is very expensive to build and wont make a whole heap more peak power, than something thats tuned to make peak at 8500 or so where they naturally like to make power
Have you done any before and after flow bench figures on the head modifications. I would like to see if there is any corelation between flow bench figures and HP figures on the dyno. Also I am amazed that shifting the inlet cam by 8 degrees has almost no effect on HP and torque
Yes, 8 deg change sounds quite a lot, but no effect. It surprised me a lot too.
No access to flow bench unfortunately. Theres a few kw change there with the 8 deg advance. Which is a few percent on this Low power level. Cams are pretty tiny so moving them around isn't going to make huge differnce. Vvt on the 20v engines move the cams 30degrees,
Hey, can you try to port and polish the throttle body?
What for? It already has a bigger one.
Porting is not a must, it's required only if it becomes a restriction, after something else was done on the intake.
Polishing especially, is extremely finicky, because if it's perfect I'll have some minor benefits, but perfection don't exist and even the slightest imperfection will disturb the flow, generating a disaster, much worse than the controlled chaos, which the normal surfaces does...
Actually, the 60-80 grit stone/paper, whatever tool you have, to texture the intake, will determine the flow to attach to the wall and thus, follow the path/maintain high enough speed, for the fuel to not puddle on the surfaces and to generate, if well studied, a positive pressure, when the valves close, do to inertia.
Finally, if the intake geometry is correctly matched with the throttle body, it might possibly determine the pressure wave to return just in time, before the intake valve close, to push some more air, than normally gets aspirated...
Trump be glad to see you make this big ported great again, he be back next term to build taller walls
What do you think about installing +1mm valve kit in NA? Worth it?
a good part of the power to be gained is around the valve seat area. so if done right 1mm oversized valves should gain a little bit, I wouldn't expect any big gains. also when you get to a certain size. will need new get new seats installed, so gets pretty expensive.
I wanted to ask if You felt any difference in engine response while driving, due to the lower mass of the connecting rods.
It's only had dyno time. But Im not sure there would be any noticable difference in response, considering how small the difference in rotating mass is.
It does feel a little smoother. Assuming due to being balanced better. One of the pistons was a little heavier than the rest previously also
@@Garage4age Thank You Docta! 👍
What is cams OE lobe centerline angle, crank degress?
Haven't measured myself. but the internet says 108 intake 111 exhaust.
Heyy i love the header whats the name of it ??
I build them myself. not for sale sorry!
Sucking oil past the valves...?
Bottom end is junk, always has been. vertical lines in the bores. just has had a dingleberry hone and thrown back together. has literally only done 10-15km run in time on dyno before running these tests
Would you recommend these rods for a smallport street rebuild?
They seem to be pretty decent for the price. stock rods with arp bolts are proven up to 9k also, but heavier and will need to do some work to fit the bolts and weight match them, if wanting to balance engine. If do go the maxpeeding rods, i think the garage4age discount code works still
Sweet thanks, I’ll check them out.
Womder if they make 7age conv rods...
Hi REDLINE, the car model can only be used as a reference. Please check the dimensions of your connecting rods, if these can match for ours, please purchase with confidence!
Look to be listed under 7afe
Удачи.
Wish this series was about the BMW m20... So much mis information about mods, what works and what doesn't and how much power each mod is worth!
This company is sending stuff to literally anyone, boring and awful, but marketing BS always wins.
Hi... I've been thinking a lot about an intake manifold project and would like to send you the simulation project and the video. Could you give me your email?... I think it will be very easy to build, and I am building mine too.
garage4age@gmail.com
Why everyone on RUclips sponsor these low quality rods? Stop please ...
People can send me parts to test. If they fail you will see it in the video, if they don't maybe they aren't so bad. These rods are not something I would use in a high end build. But so far seem like a cheaper option than factory rods with arp rod bolts, taking into account the cost for the big ends to be resized.
can you explain what makes them low quality?
Have been running these brand rods in a 7agte 18psi, gt3582, 8500rpm for four seasons of track racing. No issues.
@@haydenparker4999 Good to hear. probably more than these ones will ever see. maybe some more rpm's..
Any of you have a 0,001mm bore gauge? Measure carefully small and big end bore...and compare with other h beam rods with a reputable name....