Changing Mercury Verado Power Trim Caps Seals & Rams
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- Опубликовано: 17 июл 2024
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Развлечения
Awesome video! New to the Verado game, much appreciated!
Great video man really helpful will definitely help me replace these rams tomorrow morning a lot of information. Even tho for some reason I feel Mercruiser end caps are a lot easier and less work. Thanks for the video much appreciated.
Congrats again for your videos! They are very helpful!!!!!
Nicely explained and shown.
Your videos are the bomb!! My wife thinks I’m a master verado mechanic thanks to you
Hahahha that's awesome!
As a HD mechanic my self I like do my own repairs on my varado and your videos give me all the tips and know how to achieve this with out listening to all the BS so from here in Australia thank you and keep making awesome video.
Ps your thoughts on rebuilding a supercharger on the l6?
All your videos are great! I am up there with the best of them now😉. I am about to undergo this exact task when my seal kits arrive, I think I also have to replace the seals in the reservoir as fluid also leaks from the bottom of that as well. Have you got a video of that as well?
Thank you! If you've got fluid at the bottom of the bracket, its more than likely the steering cylinder leaking, pull that off and look inside, if its got fluid in it, you'll need to rebuild it or buy a rebuilt or new one :/
very good video thank you
thank you
Maybe use anti-seize on the threads to keep them from being froze on.
It's very useful your video ,huge thanks sir
Can you upload calibrating for triple engine 300 or 350 sci
Hello! Thank you! That wouldn't be as helpful of a video as you might think. Calibration of a triple engine boat requires you to use a computer with Mercury CDS or G3 in order to do the calibration. So without the computer, you are kind of out of luck.
Sorry I couldn't be more helpful to you! Good luck on your search!
Question, do you have a part number for the rebuild kit you installed?
Question on falling motor. Thanks for your videos btw.
2012 L6 300. My center motor falls slowly to the full down position over an hour or so on the mooring. No leaks anywhere and the motor functions as it should. No air sounds.
Is there a check valve of something that should be changed? It would seem the leak is internal.
Thanks - Mike
How much trim fluid will you need when rebuilding the both Verado power trim cylinders? Answer: I ended up using 1 quart and 20 oz. So 2 quarts should get you by.
Great video very informative. Thank you for this. I did this rebuild a time before on the port side and everything worked fine today my starboard side started leaking so we changed it out. The problem we’re having now is the motor will not stay trimmed up. And it will not trim itself up on its own power it seems like the fill cap has a leak maybe the O-ring is bad with that Not sealing off properly would that cause the unit to not stay trimmed up and also not trim it self up under its own power?
The memory cap thing might have got stuck in the other ram, look inside the other ram to make sure that its not stuck at the bottom and if it is, youll have to pull it off again and put it back in the new cylinder
Do you know where I can purchase that (green) O Ring on the trim cylinder assembly? As I pulled the cylinder away from the pivot pin, the green O Ring fell out. I would like to replace it only, not all the O Rings. Just the green O Ring. Thanks. Ted
Great vids mate 👍🏻
I have to replace mine and thanks to you I’ll save some money and I love to fix my things myself as much as I can
Also I’m getting a screen saying
MAP DIFF ERR any idea what’s this
Thanks in advance mate
I don’t even have a verado but these videos are super helpful and great quality
Thank you!
Don't ever buy one!
@@thediplomasta5891 I was just about to the otha day, how come?
@Jim Beam they are a whole different class of motor. They have their own set of special tools. They are great when they work. They're just radically different from any other traditional outboard, and not usually in a good or better way. I speak only from a maintenance standpoint here. Used to be, I could say the parts all had an extra decimal place in the price, but it's getting better. Call me old fashioned. They are just very complex. The original point of an outboard (i thought) was a lack of complexity, ergo, increased reliability. But as we head into the future, what choice do we really have, eh? They don't even sell carburetors anymore. So go nuts. Get you a verado. 😬
How much does a rebuild like this normally run ?
Do you have to remove both cylinders or can you do one at a time?
Our 2008 Verado seems to have problems trimming the engine up. No visible leakage on the cylinders however lots of noise coming from the cylinders when activated in the upward direction. Multiple tries and it will finally raise it. And the main pivot engine swivel (not sure what you call that) appears to be leaking power steering fluid.
The trim unit is probably low on fluid. And the leak, is most likely steering fluid coming from the steering cylinder. You can pull the cylinder off and look and see if there is fluid there. If there is fluid inside the steering cylinder, you need to rebuild it :/ here's some info that could help: ruclips.net/video/Ey4aGSMW5I4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/wf4wbZKrkqI/видео.html&t
Love your videos buddy! Think you’ll make one anytime soon with pulling the trim pump portion of the bracket? Mine has some bad corrosion on the bottom from being stored on the water. Also, a video showing how to disassemble the entire engine bracket and trim section for cleaning and paint to freshen it all up would be awesome if possible. Thanks!
Thats a good idea but thats also a little precise :)
I dont mean to be off topic but does anybody know a method to get back into an Instagram account?
I was stupid forgot the login password. I would appreciate any tips you can offer me
@Austin Lane Instablaster :)
@Oscar Davis thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Oscar Davis DAMN IT ACTUALLY WORKED! Literally got access to my ig password after roughly 40 mins of using the site.
Just had to pay 15 $ but definitely worth it :)
Thank you so much you saved my ass :D
very nice video
Thanks
Hello … I’m have oil coming out of the white trim stopped when I trim me 225 verdeo down to 0 trim.. and help would be appreciated.
If only one piston is leaking, is it ok to follow the same steps with just one side leaving the other side in place?
My cap has poped out and the system is contaminated with water. Do you have a video for that
What about the large green o-ring on the cap that was not removed in this video?
Thank you,
Mark
Melbourne FL
Hey Mark, are you talking about the ring that is around the bracket? There is one on the top and one on the bottom. That is just a spacer, it doesn't seal anything. Then there is an o-ring that is on the bottom of the each ram cylinder, and that one can be changed, but most of the time it is in good shape and doesn't need changed, hope this helps!
my verado is not engaging what can i check for
Same set up on my boat as this trim ram video... one of my engines can wobble from side to side when running or even on the trailer and it’s not steering (air)should i be looking at where the trim rams connect or is there another area
It's hard to say, usually that is in the steering cylinder on the engine. But the bearings in the steering tube could be shot as well. It shouldn't be in the trim system though, when the boat is on the trailer and trimmed up a little, lift on the lower unit and look at the bottom of the steering tube or bracket and see if it move up and down when you lift on the lower unit.
Excellent instructional video!! I don't have a lift (forklift) to raise the motor as the video shows. Therefore, before everything, could I just trim the motor up, bring the motor support bracket down on the pedestal, and then unscrew the manual release valve, and then do all the steps outlined in the video to replace the trim rod/cap. Or, is that too risky in that if the support bracket slips off of the pedestal, the motor would be in free fall?
No, lol you should be fine! Like you said is the way to do it, put it on that stand and you're good to go, the lift is just for when it won't trim at all :)
OK, thanks. One more question. If I don't have the (expensive) Mercury spanner tool, and the end cap needs to be torqued to 45 ft lbs. during reassembly, how does someone accomplish that with an air hammer (or punch and hammer)?
@TED F you don't. But the torque is not what seals it. As long as the cap is all the way screwed in, it won't leak. I'd keep an eye on it, though.
I have a 2015 mercury outboard 150 fourstroke. The ram is stuck in the position that i last stowed the motor with the transom saver. It will not trim up or down however i was able to lock the motor in the up position with the stand. Fluid leaking out of the seal. Would i be able to just replace the seals and add fluid or is there more that needs to be replaced? Any help or thoughts would be appreciated
As long as the ram isn't messed up and going to tear up the new seals. If you can get the cap out without tearing it up, you can just replace the seals and fill it with fluid. The 150 has a similar trim system where you replace the seals a lot like this video shows:
ruclips.net/video/wBghtFjYK6I/видео.html
@@BornAgainBoating thank you so much!
I need to change the cam shaft cover gasket and the small gaskets around the pencil coils
That shouldn't be to hard. I've never had to do that. But the valve cover comes off pretty easily. Start with the coils and plugs. Then disconnect the MAP and temp sensor on top of the block, and also the CAM sensor. Then press in the metal clips that connect to the fuel injectors. You can then pull the connector off the injector.
There are 3 separate bolts holding the grounds on to the right of the fuel rail. All of them are 8mm or 5/16. Disconnect them so that you can get the wiring harness down and out of the way. With all that disconnected you can move it to the right.
Now look in the PCM/Electrical box and there is one 10 mm bolt above the PCM. You can take that out and pull the electrical box towards the back and it will unseat from the two other bolts that have grommets on them that they sit on.
Check out my FSM video (ruclips.net/video/_fDkKuFZPEs/видео.html) to see how to remove the air plenium. With all that out of the way.
Start in the middle and work your way around the valve cover loosening all of the bolts. I believe they are all 8mm or 5/16". Then come back to the middle and remove them all. The cover just comes right off and you can change your gaskets! Then put it all back the same way you took it off!
Let me know how it works out!
Born Again Boating thanks for the information the boat is shrink wrapped for the winter this is a spring project hopefully your reply will be still here so I can reference it thanks again
Ok, no worries Vincent. If you can't find it. Well still be here and you can ask again! Have a merry Christmas and stay warm until the spring time!
Born Again Boating ok thanks again
having a hard time finding the rebuild kit for an 06 verado 275. Can only find kits for single ram. do you know of a website where i could purchase a kit?
They really only sell the kits for each ram individually, they are the same rams. Other than that you have to buy whatever you are looking for piece by piece :(
Sometimes showing fuel pump critical ,that time what I'm doing sir
My people replace fuel supply module
You will need to hit the plus button on the gauge to see the rest of the code. If you watch it as the code scrolls it will say "critical fault". Then most likely it sounds like lift pump fail, critical fault. Read what the rest of the code is. A lot of times that is because it is not getting fuel to the lift pump in order to fill the FSM and shut off the pump.
Possibly a restriction in the fuel line coming from the fuel tank.
I am loosing fluid about 4 oz per trip on a 225 Verado with 400 hours, not kept in the water. I can see fluid on the bottom galvanic plate after it sits a few hours. The rams seem fine at the top, but they could be leaking at the bottom I guess. Is there a way to know if it is the trim pump or rams and if there is a video on the pump? I'm trying to limp along with this until the summer is over and I can take it in for service. Once in, I'm think have all seals done
You might not be loosing trim fluid but steering fluid! This might help ruclips.net/video/Ey4aGSMW5I4/видео.html
Thanks to your video I did the steering ram 2 months ago. It is not loosing fluid now, I check it often. Right now I have to refill the trim after every trip. I looked things over carefully the last 3 days every time I had it out of the water and it looks like it is leaking from the top. Could it be the bottom of the rams or the trim pump is leaking below and forcing fluid up top. With the virus, all shops around me at Lake Texoma are on 6-8 weeks of wait. I found one mobile mechanic, but he is not a Verado expert.
We have a Safeboat with two Verado 250's, it is kept in the water with the motors trimmed up. The starboard motor has started to drop while sitting, it is very slow takes a day or so to drop. The system works fine. I'm curious what you think would be the culprit.
It's the internal check valves, sadly, you can try and take the unit apart and clean it all up, but a lot of times you can't fix it :(
@@BornAgainBoating That's what I thought, and no I won't bother just cleaning it, this is a public safety boat and it need to be in the water. I don't suppose you have done a video on that repair??? I am looking for a complete rebuild kit but I've never done that before, I'm sure it's in my wheelhouse but any help is appreciated.
@@calvinkesweder568 gotcha, you don't need anything to do it, there isn't really a rebuild kit. It's more of a pull it off disassembly it and put it back together. Other than that you've gotta find an entire new unit and just swap them out! If you find a away to change out something inside of it to keep it from doing that let me know lol but I think its in the valves or the mechanical motor under the actual trim motor that let's the unit leak down :/
@@BornAgainBoating Just an update, yesterday I replaced the manual trim release valve and the problem still exists. The motor makes a weird sound when lowering the unit. I thought it might be air but it never went away. Not sure where to go from here.
@@calvinkesweder568 did you ever solve this issue?
Hi born again boating, I have the ram on the bench but I couldn’t figure how to remove the lower piece in order to slide on the new ram cap?
Well, how did you do it??
@@thediplomasta5891 got to replace the whole ram with the rod
If you don't see any hardware, it unscrews. But unscrewing it without damaging it, is tricky. The original repair kit was supposed to come with the ram and cap assembled already.
@@eddieyeung2195 awesome. Thanks.
I have a verado that the trim motor stopped working. Seems to be locked up. Even with direct power to the motor nothing happens. Any ideas or is there a video on changing the motor?
Unfortunately no, I dont have a video about doing that :( I've got the footage for one, so it might be in the future. But they are pretty easy, they just pull out the bottom! It sounds like yours is dead :(
@@BornAgainBoating Thanks, we are going to give it a try and hope that solve the issue.
I notice you do a lot of work on verados should we be cautious buying them?
Yes and no, not at all. I work at a mercury dealership so we see a ton of them.
We also have more Yamaha techs then we do Merc techs at the shop. So I get put on a lot of Verados!
They are super easy to work on too so I dont mind :)
Were actually currently replacing one of our boats yamahas with a verado right now. So we have both one with a yami and one with a merc :) thanks for the comment!
The original fluid is red, the fluid you are using is red. The quicksilver power trim and steering fluid is clear/gold. Is this the same?
Yes that's fine. ATF, power trim and steering fluids are virtually the same.
One or the other. Don't mix. And never ever use automotive power steering fluid for anything except soaking rusted bolts. It will destroy your hyd system.
Hello there. Question : Is there an affordable and easiest way to convert a 25 inch Verado 300 Hp to 30 inch ? Is there any mercury or after market kit for that ? Thanks
Not really, yes you can do it, but there isn't a mass produced kit that I know of. Usually it's done locally and you have to change a bunch of stuff and mess with the lower unit :/ sometimes it's not worth it :/
Born Again Boating thanks. I’m going to think about it and make a decision. Happy weekend
Born Again Boating hi again. I’m thinking going triples. I’m moving the two 25 inch to the corners and placing a 30 inch in the middle. I have a total of 70 inches wide. How far an engine should be from the others ? Is 70 inches enough for triples ? Verado 300
Hey mate, I have done this rebuild recently, I now have no leaks, however if I put the outboard in reverse and under a fair bit of load the outboard lifts up. This is making it hard to get boat off of trailer at the ramp. Any clues as to what I have stuffed up or broken? Thanks mate!!
Hey Charlie, either the manual release valve is not closing all the way, or something isn't working right with that memory cup that goes under the ram, does the engine trim and stay up the way it should?
@@BornAgainBoating Thanks for your reply! I will look into this and get back to you, cheers!
@@BornAgainBoating Hey mate, the engine does stay up. It trims up and down perfectly. Is there a torque setting for the manual release valve? I feel like if I tighten it any more it will strip. Thanks for all your help!
what is the thread size of the 6mm bolt?
It's a 1.0 metric
Kits here are around 300 but don't come with new cap just four o rings
That doesn't sound right amzn.to/2Wa5udX that's under $300 and comes with the ram, cap, and all the seals brand new!
Plus Mercury's MSRP for this kit PN: 8M0118299 is only $262.75! Not sure why you would pay $300 for 4 o-rings!?
So it look like you place cap & ram instead of putting new seals & cap??
Yes, most of the time the ram is messed up and replacing the seals will only be a temporary fix, so they have the whole ram assembly to make it quick and easier. It does cost a little more, but if the ram is scratched or pitted, you might as well do it.
Want new ones or rebuilt ones
Mine are not even 3 years old and are already leaking