Changing Prop Shaft Seals - Safe Tips & Tricks
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
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Enjoyed the video. Now have confidence in a having a go myself.
Mercury Verado 4.8 process.
How about repacking a prop shaft on an inboard boat ?
My favorite method, is the one where I bring it to you, and you do it 😂
I used the drywall screw method ,, I used painters tape around the shaft to protect it and it worked like a champ .. I opted to throw and o ring between the seals just for added piece of mind .. this is an easy driveway fix but ridiculous price at a shop .. thanks man
painters tape ain't going to stop a screw. If you are too close to the shaft the painters tape ain't going to do anything
Nicely done video. Tried method one, could not get the drywall screws to seat into the bearing, even after trying to drill a pilot hole. After over an hour, ended up using a dremel tool to cut into the seal (away from the shaft) and basically tear and pry the seal with a seal puller. Took couple hours and lots of patience, especially the inner seal, but finally prevailed. This job is not for the faint of heart or impatient!
I am not a Marine Technician, but I really enjoy your classes.
That's awesome! Thank you so much! :)
being in the business for over 30 years
one of my favorite sayings is
" you can have it FAST or you can have it RIGHT "
Or,, we do it fast, good, and cheap. You can have any two. :)
This channel is so well done and perfectly articulated! Great Job BAB!
Thank you!
I might have a blown seal but I have a 2020 75hp mercury. How can you tell which ones this doesn’t work for?
Last night I gave this a go. I love to analyze the work that I’m going to do. HUGE TIP for everyone that wants to remove everything. I know there’s a proper tool on removing the whole assembly. So I got this idea and it work amazing !. After removing the propeller and the 4 screws or whatever you have. I decided to run a ratchet strap and feed it through the holes. I came back up and tide a knot. I made sure I had a great loop because in between I used a small jack that comes in your vehicles. I jacked it up where I created tension with the loop I created with the ratchet strap. That thing work perfectly and I was able to get the whole assembly. There’s many ways to go about it. Best thing is to not be afraid and do it right.
Nice . I need photos or a sketch to understand though.
I do the flat screwdriver and use 2 picks . Easy Peasy . just be mindful of the shaft and install seals with the first ones spring pointing in and the second with the spring pointing out back to back with springs opposite each other .
That is not as per Yamaha manual. Both seals should be facing outwards with the spring towards the prop.
Many Thanks for this - just tried the screw driver technique. Wasn't very difficult to just slowly work around and deform the old oil seals in by wedging a small flat head screw driver in between the casing and the oil seal. As Aaron says just be careful not to go anywhere near the prop shaft and orient the screw driver as much as possible so it is not angled towards the outer casing either. Only took about 10 minutes and once the seal is deformed enough it will come out pretty easily (you'll see it start to move).
Problem was though I went a little too deep in places when deforming the lower oil seal. So the screw driver came into contact with the steel bearing housing behind the lower oil seal. So this has left a couple of little nicks in that bearing housing. This potentially opens a gap between it and the new oil seals which I guess will reduce the seal efficiency?
I just removed any sharp edges on those nicks and pressed any deformation out with the screw driver as best I could but just though I'd warn people about this. Particularly as you can actually feel when the screw driver makes contact with that bearing housing. When hitting the screw driver with a hammer it should sound a little dull and soft when you are between the oil seal and the outer casing. When the screw driver makes contact with the steel bearing housing it will feel and sound rock hard. At that point don't give it another couple of taps like I did and you'll be fine.
If you do just make sure you use some gasket sealer as in Aaron advises as even more important and also if there are scratches from the screw driver on the inside of the outer casing.
I'll be replacing the seals on my 80 Evinrude 15. After watching this video I'm confident I can do it correctly. I think I'll try the drywall screw method first. And, thankyou for stressing how important it is not to scratch the prop shaft!
Awesome idea with oring in between seals! I never heard that one.
There was quite a bend in that shaft 😉
The O-ring acts as a spacer hopefully relocating the seal to a spot on the shaft without any scratches or nicks!
I love you guys videos , reminds me of old tricks I would have forgotten, God bless
On a Yamaha F50 I have used 3 6mm high propshaft seals, instead of 2 factory fitted seals. The inner seal remained intact even if outer two were severely damaged by fishing line or braid. worked great.
Nice job again, to keep Murphy’s from entering, I believe I will use the small flat head screw driver instead of the drywall screw method. Thank you for all you do to help people like myself, that has more time than money. You are awesome my friend, Thanks Robert
If the shaft is damaged, Speedi-sleeves work well. I've used them in hydraulic pump applications. Good video.
Is there a Speedi sleeve for the Yamaha prop shaft?
Oh my oh my what happens when it gives up 20 miles off the coast and blows your gears up? Leaving you bobbing in the water like a cork ? Lol don’t listen to these butchers! This is nothing to play with. People die from mistakes like this!
When you clean the shaft at 5:35 to 5:40 it looks as if the prop shaft is bent
Carrier would NOT come off; I don’t have a puller. Drywall screw method ROCKED! Your video is so well done, I was confident enough to pull it off. Thanks tons!
You're welcome
Dude!... excellent job on the video. The drywall screw trick was amazing. I understand the risks, and will probably get a puller to help avoid them, but what an option to have when you can't get your hands on a specialized tool like a seal puller. I really enjoyed your thorough explanation of all of the processes. The clear instructions give me hope that I'll be able to replace the seals on a 2004 Honda 90hp that I recently came by. Wish me luck!
Good luck! :) take your time and be careful, you shouldn't have any trouble if you just go slow and pay attention :)
@@BornAgainBoating So I went ahead and pulled the whole bearing carrier. However, I still can't get the prop shaft to come out. What am I missing? Do I need to pull the shift shaft to get the prop shaft to come the rest of the way out? I want to check all the gears and replace the bearings/seals... so that I don't have to worry about this motor when I put it on the water.
I’ve been swapping new oil into my leaking lower unit every couple of months….but now I will change them….thanks for visual courage
Thanks! I'm working on my foot now.
I prefer as I already have a few months ago, paid a ''technician'' like yourself to do it for me. All of them, every seal possible. I only know how to really wreck stuff, versus change them. (Don't slam your prop into rocks folks...your seals will eventually leak)
Hahhaha that is a great method ;) and advise! lol
Awesome video. How big is the PVC pipe used to install the seals?
It amazes me how he never gets any stains on his clothes. That were me, I'd have to throw that shirt away.
Here it is! Technician’s Tuesday!
Yeah buddy!
Thanks, drywall screw trick worked great.
Excellent video thank you - i have a Honda BF15A circa 1995 and will certainly need these tips to change water seal ...thanks
You are welcome!
Best trick I think
Start the hole in the seal with a sharp pick and then use the drywall screw method
This way no pushing against the seal to start the screw
Like the drywall screws. Did that on my front cam shaft seal on a Toyota van .
Thanks bud, I’ll be heading to ALASKA next week, and need to do this! Cheers
Thanks always for your hard work putting together the informative videos, great job very much appreciated. So you asked which method do I prefer, the easy answer is the one that works lol. I am working on my twin Mercury 3.0 225's replacing the seals. I started with the starboard OB which has the outer seal installed incorrectly. Attempting to drive a screw in the seal was a no go the screw did not even scratch the seal, so I attempted to drive a self tapping screw, and it just danced on the seal. Time for a pilot hole, not a chance and I do not have long tungsten bit too drill straight 90 deg. to the seal case. Adding a center punch proved to be unhelpful with out a long bit. So I moved to the method of taping along the edge no good. 3rd try is the destruction method yes the destruction method as the seal just was not cooperating. Not sure what was used to install the seal but it seems to be fused to the carrier, and the destruction is all that seems to be happening. HELP! How much heat can be applied safely to the carrier and seal case? Can the seals be pressed out if the carrier is removed, need your help.
" I do not have long tungsten bit too drill straight 90 deg" --> Just get 6mm (1/4") Bar and braze onto end of Drill Bit to make a custom extra long extension. Have done this successfully may times.
Thank you so much for this video!!!!! I used the flat screw driver technique and it worked like a charm!!! Thank you again!!!!!
Awesome!
Exactly the video I needed. I see that you've attracted a few hater comments, but I thought you did a decent job of explaining the risks of this DYI method.
I appreciate that!
The flathead screw driver is good. Less harmful to the prop shaft. Great job.
What o ring tool kit did you have there in that red box. Thanks for the video.
All I can say: Your videos are awesome! Thanks for doing them.
Wow, thank you!
Thanks Aaron! Gonna do this on my 8 hp Yammie. Just pulled water pump housing and bearing plate off of it, had milky gear oil. Glad I looked at it, you should've seen the salt buildup! 😳
Lol yeah they can get bad :)
Is it the 2 stroke one I might have to do this
Clear and concise, very well done
Dude! I've been doing seals for years and I've never seen it done that way Except for the screw method which I do not like. I've always pulled the Carrier bearing nut out what a pain in the arse. The 2nd method you have I'm gonna be trying from now on
Just bought a boat with a duo prop that leaks at one of both prop seals. What’s the PITA part of pulling the bearing carrier? I have the book coming but books don’t always articulate the reality of the horror.
@@permagrin8742 yo bud your best bet is to take it to a professional. That requires a couple special tools. If you had the bravo 1 or 2 (which is single prop) this video would work. In fact this video will work for any prop shaft seal but duel props
I'm Assuming you have a Bravo 3 that's the most common dual prop. Volvo has a dp too
@@dancomarineservices why would it not work on a Volvo dou prop? My rear prop seals are leaking and i have to change them. I was going to pull the carrier but it looks like if i do i have to set the rolling torque and also check the gear lash. Maybe even split the case? Seams like a lot of work. If i could get them out without pulling the bearing carrier I would love that. Plus there is the additional costs of all the carrier seals. Whats your thoughts Danco?
I have used the screw method on my alpha one lower unit. Worked great!
can this be done on a alpha 1 gen 2 ? can i pull out seals without removing the carrier ?
@@TheOne4Wisdom Yes.
Like the screwdriver method with the seal puller
Thank u for all ur videos thy had taught me alot just got me a pair of Johnson 150 outboards
your videos are always top-notch knowledge thanks hopefully this will save me a few hundred bucks
Thanks Man.
To repair a damaged seal area on the shaft I have used a speedy sleeve with success to restore the shaft where the seal runs.
If one of my employees did this to a customer's drive I'd fire him. You might get away with it on a Yamaha with vinyl seals but Mercury and Johnson Evinrude with stainless steel seal outer bands you will destroy the shaft or the carrier. In my 35 years as a marine technician I have found stainless seals can be difficult to remove without damaging the carrier even when the carrier is removed. They may be installed with red loctite or gel seal.
Doing hack jobs usually come back to bite you and cost you time and money. I have changed thousands of gear case seals in my career and not one come back.
Hello Steve! Thank you for commenting and thank you for all of the years you have put into the marine industry! 35 years is extremely impressive! I'm sure that you have seen countless hack jobs and DIY flops over your time turning wrenches. You're right stainless steel seals can be very difficult to remove. We don't get to see a lot of Johnson Evinrude's down here, there just isn't that much representation for them in this region. Can you still get to the seals like this on them or are they like most of the Mercury's these days where the carrier has to come out? Congratulations on owning your own shop too! Since you said Mercury and Evinrude I'm guessing you are a dealer for them. How do you like the new Mercury V-6 and V-8 engines?
Well arnt you just awsome
@@darrylstem6426 " aren't"
No screws or drivers on my Evinrude ...what about the big o ring in back?⚓🇺🇸👎
Well done. I was afraid I would need to do this, however water in my lower unit was caused by a missing washer on one of the drain screws.
That'll do it 4 sure
Ohh... I may love you. I have water in my lower. I did notice one of the plugs didn’t have a washer. I guess it didn’t click. I ordered seal anyways. May just do them for preventative maintenance
Brilliant no nonsense video, very helpful, thanks 👍
Glad you liked it!
Love the channel man!! I’m a Yamaha tech up in New York been doing this for 3 years love seeing different ways for doing jobs and how others go about it. I’ve learned for a lot of things that their is no right way to do a job but some ways are easier and quicker just gotta find the the best one. Keep the vids going man best of luck to you👍
That's awesome! You totally right, sometimes you just have to make it work lol Thank you!
Wish I'd seen this video before I changed my leaking seals. I fabbed up a 2 jaw pulled with chains and hooks to pull the carrier, after buying the special spanner socket. I will probably try the drywall screw method next time. Thanks so much for the videos and info. I went over my trailer today after being inspired by your trailer video last night
Awesome! Just be careful of the props haft with the screws! If you're not that comfortable with it, predrill the holes for the screws :)
I have the DPSM VP. Thought about all these methods but finally invested in the special tools. I was just too concerned about ruining two very expensive prop shafts(Duo prop has both inner and outer and have to be replaced in matched sets with pinion bearing-very expensive!). The tools are sometimes available on ebay and are usually scarfed up pretty quickly if you decide to sell after using. Makes the job super ez!
Good and smart tips for changing seals. But isn't it a very crooked shaft, big risk that it shortens the life of the seals? At 5.35
How do you remember which way each seal goes in, spring in or out?
I gotta do mine, I think I'll snap a pic on my phone as soon as I take each out
Tried these but didn’t work. Once I got the bearing holder off I used a wrench to grab the bottom edge of the seal and hit it on the other end with a hammer (in a vice) to pry it out. Nothing else would work for me. Hope this helps someone else
Great job made simple thanks w.a.
Glad you liked it!
Wow another great one thanks
Thank you!
highly risky operation
you never even mentioned
the risk of scratching (damaging )
the soft aluminum of the bearing carrier
where the metal - outer portion of the seal 'will not' seal, if damaged
causing a leak afterwards
Just pull the bearing carrier!!!
That’s why he used the sealant on the outside of the seal. The contact area of the outer seal flange is much greater than the surface area of the rubber contacting the shaft. Plus, the outer seal is stationary once installed. The rubber is constantly dealing with the rotation and any run-out of the shaft.
Therefore a perfect machined surface of the bearing carrier is much less critical than the seal contact area of the shaft.
The bearing carriers often already have enough corrosion to make the surface less than optimal after years of use…. Which requires the use of a sealant regardless of a few scratches caused by old seal removal.
Really enjoy your informative videos! Going to be doing this to my 1955 15 hp Evinrude. Thanks for making this great video! Just yanked the prop shaft seal this evening. Good thing I did it before taking it out on the water. All the seals are shot.
Thanks for a great video. My first time changing all the seals. I used the screwdriver and the seal puller. I just took my time, the first one took more time than the second one. Do you have a video of changing the upper shaft seals?
thank you for these videos. Has Saved me a ton of money and time!!
You are so welcome!
Really enjoy your videos. I like this type of work.
Thank you!
What size pvc pipe do you use?
Good tips I will let you know how it goes. For the seal installation would you clarify the direction of the seals. One side of the seal is open, which way should they face on a mercury 97 225 with a 4.75 housing.
This works great for cars too
It's amazing how many seals you can do like this :)
Great video I learn a lot from you, my teashers from Uti wonder haw I know all the tricks.😂
How"
Hahah, thank you! That's awesome! Let em know you saw it here first lol ;)
I’m a rookie at this but I’m really impressed by these videos!
Man great video i half to change my seals this video was a big help thank you
I noticed you used a bent shaft to demo on.
Hahah, everybody has noticed that, I used like three or four different cases, just so you guys could see all of the different ways and things that could happen!
Dina Caldwell I was thinking that when he rotated the one bent shaft. “Man that’s never going to seal up”. Lol
Don't forget to re-pressure check after the repairs. Just to be sure...
Ty for the information
You must do motor repair full time. Best videos. So is the driveshaft seal done the same way? I have Etec 40HP 2011. Im going to tear into the lower unit and want to replace everything where water may intrude as oil is milky. Bought it used and apparently they changed the oil before I bought and snuck this by me. Next time I will know that you take the boat out then check the oil.
Great job showing us these tips. I'd like to try this on my 75 Opti sometime this fall, but can you tell me why this might not work on Mercury lower units? By the way, 2 observations...1. you really need to get yourself a new hammer! 2. I think that prop shaft had a little excessive run-out :) Great video, thanks again!
Thank you! This might work on your Opti, but a lot of Mercs have the prop shaft seals inside and protected by the bearing carrier. ruclips.net/video/YtivxsdwEqY/видео.html fast forward to 3:30 for the seals :) Hahaha everybody hates my hammer lol yeah, that gear case was trashed, just used it for an example lol Thank you!
@@BornAgainBoating good
to hear I was gonna say the propshaft is bent
Use the Drywall screw extraction method all the time on Motorcycles
To be honest, I generally use it more then the seal puller too! I guess you just get used to doing it a certain way huh youd be amazed how many people bring them in and say that their neighbor does the service but the lower unit wont seal "for some reason". Then we pull the seals and see the blatant screw threads straight down the prop shaft lol
i was going to do this once but checked up at the last min. Instead i took lower off and took it to a marina they replaced all the seals and impeeler for $180
At beginning of video you used a pressure test to check lower unit. What kind of tester do you use???
I use the screw method. I notice you said both seals with spring facing up, toward the prop. The manual I bought for my Yamaha shows and says first seal in spring to oil and second seal in spring towards the prop. Is my book wrong? I havnt had any issues but if your way comes from yamaha I'll start doing it that way. I have a 150 and twin 200s and do all my own work.
Excellent channel BTW. Especially like the fiberglass vids
No your book is not wrong. You should always have first seal facing in to hold oil in and second out holding water out.
I know thi is for demo purposes only but looking at the way that shaft was rotating i would say it is wallaby bobs brother , roo ted .great video though
Just did my upper and lower seals. The lower seals I used the dry wall screw trick, worked great! Question tho, in the video it says you can try to flip the seals....why would that work if you just drilled a hole through them?
great video showing different techniques to do this. what size pvc pipe was that you used to press down the seals?
Solenoid wires for A 1987 bayliner capri
Your right i wont be doing this. I just started watching your videos as of last night. Would love to see if . You can work on a boston whaler Montauk (1977). Like replace the floor, or on a honda 90 hp outboard
Awesome! Welcome to the channel :) A 1977 Montauk! Now that's hard to come by down here lol A lot of the glass work that we are going to be doing will show you the basic process of how to do it. You'll probably need a transom in that boat too. Around here everybody buys up those old Boston Whalers and turns them into bully netting boats
@@BornAgainBoating bully netting boats? Sorry brother im new to boating. I bought that boat i mentioned and guess what.... i dont know how to SWIM. LOL.
Haha, that's ok, bully netting is basically where they put the console of the boat in the front of the boat so that they can drive from the bow of the boat. Then you put lights on the front that can be put down into the water and you drive onto the flats at night and that is when the Florida Spiny Lobster get out and walk across the grass. You can take these nets and then driving from the front come across them walking and scoop them up with the net! lol it's all good, just something you'll have to learn how to do :) most people learn quickly, it's just that thing you instinctively do before drowning lol
The seal rubber seals against the shaft -- and the metal part of the seal seal against the bearing carrier wall. That screwdriver method looks like it would rain all hell on the bearing carrier wall, which is not good.
Another great, informative video... Thank you!
Thank you!
Hi great video just a question i have a 210 Quintrex legend center console boat with a 60 hp Mercury engine i think its a bigfoot its hard to shift in to gear i have taken control cables off and it shifts smoothly so must be at the engine end any ideas i can do to make it change smoother thank you
Hey! Thank you, here is a video that should help a little more in figuring out what is going on:
ruclips.net/video/jHM2eZmlpVY/видео.html
Excellent instruction!! Do you believe this job can be done without removing the lower unit from the outboard (1985 Yamaha 40hp)? The outboard would also be mounted to the transom. Or maybe it is a big advantage removing the lower unit that I'm not seeing...
Great content! Bought a fancy seal puller slide hammer to be safe and didn’t work so had to resort to the dry wall screw method. Stayed away from the inner shaft however when trying the flat head pry method I went a little to deep and damaged the outside of the carrier bearing lip that the seal sits on.. I believe it’s just there to make space between the seals so it doesn’t sit ontop of the bearing. Do you think I will be alright letting it ride or replace the carrier housing to be safe?
Looking at the closeup of seal, I noticed the grease fitting. How often do you grease the shaft?
I prefer using The OMC special tool for that job
What size pvc pipe diameter did you use to install back on
Pretty sure it is 1 1/4 pipe, for the V-8 you need the same pipe but with the flanged edge
I'm wondering if you replaced the shaft itself. I noticed at around 5:30 you spun the shaft around and I can see it has a bend to it
I used different cases for the video, that was a junk case with a bent prop shaft lol :) Needed the stuff to make the video ;)
@@BornAgainBoating ha for a minute I thought I was seeing things and had to go back and watch again
Can this method work on replacing the drive shaft oil seals under the water pump?
I have a mercury 115 EFI 4 stroke what propeller do you recommend
Do you know what size o-ring you use? 3mm thickness or 4 mm thickness? The shaft on my Suzuki 22 mm. So do I use 22 mm x 3 mm or 22 mm x 4 mm ?
No idea, I just pull one from the universal o-ring kit lol: amzn.to/4cPdwQj
Is it better to use the fine thread screws or coarse? The screw driver method would be my second choice because I would not want to score a groove in the bore with the flat head. This is a great video cause I have already had a shop tell me they couldn’t disassemble the lower unit to repair a seal because of salt water corrosion.
Do you have a video for this type of situation where salt water corrosion is a problem for lower unit repair? Thank you for the video!
Thank you! Yeah, there's lots of options, just some are going to be more expensive and time consuming than others. Here's a few videos that might help you with understanding lower units and what not:
ruclips.net/video/DeZOzznogFw/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/CNXLhBSDRY4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/eMP5HqTh1XE/видео.html
P.S. even use them on stuffing box to boot.
I have a 200 hpdi and I noticed water in the lower unit when I was changing the oil. Watched your awesome videos on how to remove the seals. Looks like the shaft seals were leaking, the spring was corroded. I could not remove the carrier with two screwdrivers but used a seal puller from harbor freight which worked great. I placed the hook end under the carrier and tapped it upward with a hammer, alternating sides. The carrier came out with no issues. Do I have to replace the prop shaft seals if I replace the shaft seals? Thank you.
You'll want to run a pressure test and see if the prop shaft seals are leaking, if they aren't then you don't have to mess with them :)
Always great videos, Always very interesting. What is the theory on facing the lip seals out. The Yamaha LU's are prone to lose oil and to getting water in them? I think that's why someone had installed the inner seal with the lip facing the oil and the outer facing the water. Do Mercury's both face out? Just curious what you've seen to work best. I have a VMAX 250 07 I'm getting close to changing seals on.
One lower you show has a grease fitting, how often should you grease it and how many shots?
Thanks for your insight.....
Great Question. Why the difference in how manufactures approach sealing the prop shaft. The demonstration video the Yamaha method has the seals facing each other. For the Mercury 2 Strokes the seals lips oppose one another with the lip facing inward for the first seal and outward for the outer seal.
That prop shaft is bent. Hack technique using screws.
Yup! One of those cases, the prop shaft was bent really bad!
Do you have any videos of complete lower unit repairs bearings ect on Johnson’s.
Drywall screws 👍
can ANYONE show how to get the bearing carrier out ????
Depends on what gear case you have
@@BornAgainBoating the one in your video!! Duh!!! Seriously???
I just drained the engine oil on my 2021 Suzuki df70 and saw a very faint white in with the oil color. I did hit a rock with the prop. Guessing this might be my issue. Question is, I used the engine for about an hour or two in low RPMS after since noticing this. The white was so light, do you think my engine is safe? Took it to the dealer where they are going to charge me my soul to find out what it is and fix. Any help here would be nice…. Thank you! 💪🏼
Great video!!! Really helpful!!! I was wondering, I have 2000 Honda bf30. Does Honda use both the seals facing out? Thanks!!!