DIY: Ford Ranger 2wd Front Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- Video tutorial on how to replace the front brakes on a Ford Ranger 2wd with no ABS. This video does not include the full details on how to replace the wheel bearing. Your vehicle may or may not require the rotors to be replaced. Instead of buying new rotors, you can also have them resurfaced which will remove any warpage or surface damage. Resurfacing rotors are normally cheaper than buying new rotors, but they are not as durable as they are a thinner material and will be affected by heat quicker. This particular tutorial was done on a 1998 Ford Ranger regular cab short box 2wd.
DIY: Ford Ranger 2wd Front Wheel Bearing Replacement: • DIY: Ford Ranger 2wd F...
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Tools/Supplies Needed:
-jack
-axle stand
-large interlocking pliers
-pliers
-johnson/breaker bar
-15mm socket
-13mm socket
-24mm socket
-ratchet
-hammer
-wheel bearing grease
-wire brush
-new replacement brake pads
-new replacement rotors
-two cotter pins
-degreaser
-abrasive pad
-rotor cleaner (used in the video is Permatex Brake Cleaning Wipes #26629)
-thread locker (used in the video is Permatex Medium Strength Blue Threadlocker Gel #24215)
Procedure:
- start by elevating the side you will be starting with safely and then remove the wheel
-crack the cap of the master cylinder to prevent any pressure build up when we push the pistons back in the caliper
-remove the two 13mm bolts which hold on the caliper, they are located on the backside
-using larger interlocking pliers, pinching on the mounting bolt location and the carrier to push the pistons back into place
-remove the caliper and place it on top of the upper control arm, then use either a soft wire or bungie cord to tie it into place
-remove the brake pads
-sometimes they will come out on their own or need a little assistance using a hammer
-if you are keeping the rotors, be careful not to damage the rotors
-in order to remove the rotor, the carrier does need to be removed which is done by removing the two 15mm bolts on the backside
-moving onto the rotor, this is held onto the spindle, therefore the rotor and hub are one assembly
-remove the grease cap from the hub using interlocking pliers to gently grab onto the outside and rock the cap out slowly
-bend the cotter pin straight and remove from it’s hole
-take off the metal retainer
-remove the 24mm nut
-the rotor is a sliding fit, pull back so the flat washer is to the edge of the threaded shaft and then push back
-this will give us access to easily remove the flat washer and outer bearing
-now remove the rotor
-new rotors do come in a rust inhibiting packaging oil which must be removed before installing using a rotor specific cleaner
-apply a wheel bearing compatible grease to the wheel bearings
-install the rear wheel bearing and then install the seal
-clean the spindle shaft and the bearing seal surface
-install the rotor assembly on the spindle, then install the outer bearing, washer, and nut
-preload the wheel bearing to factory specifications
-reinstall grease cap
-ensure the pads do not bind on the carrier
-if required, clean the mounting surfaces behind the anti rattle clips using a wire brush and file, then reinstall the anti rattle clips and test fit pads
-clean and lubricate the floating pins if needed using a brake specific lubricant
-reinstall the carrier, torque the bolts to 73-97ft lbs.
-use a medium strength thread locker on the bolts as added protection
-install the new brake pads
-install the caliper and bolts along with applying threadlocker, torque the bolts to 22-29ft lbs.
-wipe down the rotor again to remove any contaminants
-reinstall the wheel and tighten the lug nuts
-tighten the master cylinder reservoir cap
-before starting the vehicle, gently pump the brake pedal so the pistons are in their initial location and you will reduce the risk of throwing a brake error code
Thank you to all those who watch my videos and support my content. Don't forget to subscribe to my channel for future tutorial videos and like my video if you found it helpful. New videos are always being uploaded every week!
© 4DIYers 2013
All Rights Reserved
No part of this video or any of its contents may be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted, without the prior written consent of the author.
You my friends have gained a new subscriber! I have a 2WD 1998 Ford Ranger XLT 2.5L myself, and I absolutely loved your tutorial to replace my power steering fluid! Such concise instructions and easy to follow, with this tutorial being no exception! I also love that you're still liking comments years later! Keep up the great work!
EASY, UNDERSTANDABLE AND CONCISE. THANK YOU FOR THIS TUTORIAL
Thank you, I really appreciate the feedback :)
Wow! This is one of the best repair videos I've seen. A++ on video and lighting. A++ on narrative. Leaves no need for questions.
I'm 4 years late, but thanks! I accidentally wore my breaks down way too far. A little nervous to work on my truck myself, but it's gotta be done
No problem, happy I could help!
If you have a friend that works on cars I definitely suggest having them walk you though it while you do the work so you gain the experience.
Some additional info from my job on a 2001 Mazda B3000 2WD, in case you were thinking they were the same:
I have torsion bar suspension.
The 13mm bolt for the calipers is a 14mm bolt.
The 24mm bolt for the spindle nut is larger than 25mm, the biggest I have in metric. I am not exactly sure the size, but I was able to use a 1-1/16 in 6-point socket due to low torque value.
Yeah, the spindle nut on my 2000 Ranger is larger than 24 mm also.
Same:/ bought a 24 specifically for this. Turned out to be a 27 mm for anyone interested.
Needs to update for sure
Thank you so much for explaining how to get the rotor off. I couldn't find a vid anywhere doing the fronts. I was hammering on the rotor like an idiot thinking it was just rusted on. -.-
Glad to help out and thank you for the feedback :)
You weren't the only one. I got to thinking it had something to do with that cap. Ended up putting two fingers into the grease behind it. Looked up a video and understood how stupid I was.
I did the same thing. This is my first truck, and the rotors on my other cars came right off lol
OMG why are you people working on cars ? especially brakes! If you're not smart enough to buy a Haynes manual for your truck then you shouldn't be allowed to own tools or work on your own car because you're endangering the lives of everyone on the road around you
@@dannelson8556 I had the same issue on a 1940's Ford. Can't learn if you don't make mistakes.
Thank you, straight to the point and easy to follow
Glad to help out!
Excellent tutorial, thanks. (Like that razzle dazzle at the end with the ratchet.)
Thank you :)
You have saved me $300, thank you
Happy to help!
Extremely well done guide. Thank you.
Thank you for the feedback and glad to help out! Don't forget to subscribe for more Ranger videos ;)
Nice i was gonna do the rotors too but the owner only wanted a pad slap.
My tire came off on my while driving today and my rotor is toast hopefully this will help
I installed the new camber kit when I put the new upper control arms in and wanted to know if the square hole on the camber needs to be at the 12:00 position or does it matter to make it easy for the alignment guy.
Can u advice on the same topic for a 2011 for ranger 6 cylinder 4.0 2wd.
thank you my friend
Thank you too!
Best video ever thanks
You're welcome!
Excellent! Right down to business.
Thank you for the feedback and don't forget to subscribe for more Ranger videos :)
Gave Thumbs Up But I Got A Question:
Dont I need to bleed the brakes or am I missing that? What should I do? Any non-legally binding
advice...? Anyone?
Either Way Thanks
Thank you for the support! No need to bleed the system when replacing the pads and rotors or shoes and drums. I know there's a few videos out there where they recommend loosing the bleeder screw when pushing the piston back and that is a very bad idea. Just crack the master cylinder reservoir cap to relieve any pressure build up when pushing the piston back and that's it. The only times a system should be bleed is when fluid you're working with the fluid such as replacing the calipers, wheel cylinders, lines, brake fluid flush, etc.
@@4DIYers Damn it Brother!! Dude you answered my question in like under 5 minutes! This vids a few years old, too.
I just subscribed. Thanks Boss.
No problem, happy to help and thank you for the support too! I usually try to answer questions once a week depending on my schedule and I have new videos every week too :)
Generally this is a very good video and thank you for making it. My only complaint is that you don't show putting the pads on after installing the caliper bracket. On my ranger at least, there is a tab on two of the four pads. Do they go inner, or outer? Hmm
My question also.
Came looking for bolt torque for the brake calliper carrier. It seems you didn't cover this. ???
Wait 'master cylinder'? That's what that one is? What fluid should I use to fill it back up to filled level?
Do you know if 22-29 foot pounds is the right torque for a 1996? Haynes manual is saying 38 but I think its wrong.
Do the floating pins on the brake bracket simply pull straight out and can I use Sil-Glide silicone brake caliber grease to lube them.
Yeah they do, here is a video specifically for that ruclips.net/video/oODS9Iel2s4/видео.html
There is a little metal prong on one brake pad. How is this oriented?
I just installed new lower ball joints on my 98 ranger and have the steering knuckle on the new ball joint stud and have it a little more then snug tight. However, there is about a 3/8" gap between the castle nut and steering knuckle hole where the stud of the ball joint fits in. I know I have to torque it down yet but don't think it will close that much of the gap up even at 100 ft. lbs. So is there suppose to be a small gap there even after torqueing. I thought maybe the stud is tapered and the gap is normal. Just want to make sure before driving.
You did not mention anything about the races. Most new rotors come with new races pre installed. Is it ok to put a new wheel bearing into those pre installed races? I've always heard that you are supposed to put in a matched set. What's your thoughts? Thx
Thorough, I like it.
Thank you!
a c4 Do you have any video on brake pad replacement on a Ford ranger 4WD 2013-2016
fleet tech Should be quite similar, but rotor replacement will be different.
fleet tech I would be very interested also to find out how to change brake pads on a 2013 PX ford ranger 4x4
I have a 98 ford ranger that I inherited from my dad and just replaced the upper control arm and lower ball joints. It only has 105,000 miles on it and was not driven hard at all. I thought about replacing the inner and outer tie rods but did not want to put more money into it if not needed. I value your opinion on what you would do at this point and wanted to know how many miles I should expect to get before replacing them. Also I started to install my steering knuckle today and had problems. I put it on the lower ball joint first and then tried to jack up the lower control arm to lift it up to the upper ball joint. It got close but I was still about 2" away from the upper ball joint and the truck was very high compared to the other side and did not want to go any further. How do you get the steering knuckle to go up without the truck wanting to go with it. I do have both sides off with no tires or steering knuckle on either side.
If you have the coil spring front end, then the upper control arms do affect the alignment. I would recommend getting an alignment as you can cause handling issues and excessive wear on the tires. So with that being said, it would be a good idea to install outer tie rods, they're around $20 each. It's peace of mind and you won't have to pay double for an alignment. You can also check if they're bad by pushing a pry bar against the joint or rocking the steering when the wheels are on the ground and watching for play in the joint. The truck shown in the video will be getting new ball joints, upper control arms, and outer tie rods, it only has about 160,000km so around the same mileage. You should be able to jack that steering knuckle into place. Did you purchase the right control arms? There is a few different style apparently between the replaceable or non-replaceable upper ball joints and coil spring or torsion bar front suspension.
OK so you are replacing your outer tie rods which makes sense to spend a little money now and only one alignment. However, is there a reason why you are not replacing the inner tie rods or do they typically last a lot longer. If I put the new outer tie rods on do I simply count how many threads are showing on old one when I install the new one. I know I will have to get an alignment no matter what.
This beats paying $800 for someone else to do it!! Thanks man
No problem, happy to help! Always a pleasure hearing people save large amounts of money on auto repairs.
Great video. What lubricant do you recommend using for the slide pins?
Thank you. I've been happy with the stuff shown in the video, it's made by Permatex and is a synthetic brake grease #09125.
Nice vid, thx!
+juha Thank you!
+4DIYers You forgot to tell them how many foot pounds to torque the bolt back on
cr1m1nalspeed I didn't mention it in the video, but I have included it in the video description ;)
4DIYers We're not here to read lol jk
LMAO... Times have certainly changed from reading those thick manuals.
Which rotors would I suggest...seen thisCentric Parts 120.65082 Premium Brake Rotor with E-Coating
What about the slotted ABS sensor plate on the rotor? That has to be on the new rotor or the Anti Lock brakes will work.
Yes that is correct. Not all Rangers were equipped with front ABS brakes, someone had actually installed the wrong rotors on this truck.
Can u show a link of what that slot looks like, my abs light is on
I need to see you place the pads into the caliper. I'm really struggling.
Check out some of my other brake replacement videos. Typically they are the same or very similar. Make sure you have the pad material facing the rotor, pushed fully against the rotor, have the piston fully pushed back into the caliper and it's ready to be reinstalled.
My dealership charged me 100$ for each rotor. Should rear ones not be cheaper?
My lower control arm is grinding on the rotor after replacement
Did you install the inner bearing race?
Does anyone know what size rotors he used?? Asking for a friend
hey, I don’t know if you will see this but I need to change my front brakes and rotors on my XLT 99 ranger manual in 4wd bit it also runs with the rear wheels. I'm not sure which rotors I need. One has just holes the other one has bolts in it and the middle thing. Which is the right one for mine?
It's a 4.0 v6
Your best off asking the auto parts store or even going to the dealer and getting a part number. Being a four-wheel-drive, I highly doubt it’s a tapered roller wheel bearing. So you most likely need the rotor that mounts onto the hub, the one with the wheel stud holes.
Hello. I just replaced my brakes and rotors on my 96 2wd along with bearings but I have vibration after that
Re tighten the axle nut with a torque wrench and make sure to back it off a 1/16 of a turn until the rotor spins with no dragging.
Wait so what like actually holds the rotor on just that one nut at 25 ft lbs??
Yes, it's also locked with a cotter pin. It's a lot stronger than it seems.
Excuse me but why did you not Grease the shaft of the spindle?
I just did a set of these and I greased the hell out of the spindle shaft.
Please inform me of your reasoning on why you didn't not do the same.
Everyone has their own process, there was a very light amount on the spindle shaft. But I typically like avoiding it, debris can fall on the shaft during assembly and the grease just allows it to stick, more grease makes it harder to spot.
Do you know if this is similar/the same for a 2004 Ford Ranger 2WD??
Yes it should be.
OK so I have cleaned my floating pins on the brake bracket. Do I put the rubber boot on the pin dry and crimp it into place on the threaded end and just put grease on the other half of the pin or should there be grease inside the rubber boot as well.
Here's a video specifically for sliding pins ruclips.net/video/oODS9Iel2s4/видео.html Just apply a film of grease to the pins, doesn't have to be excessively thick as it'll push out anyway. There isn't a large amount of clearance for the pins anyway. Install the boot on the pin, then push into place on the carrier. No need for more grease inside the boot.
So the boots stay completely dry no grease
Just a light layer like the rest of the pin. Do not fill the boot with grease, it'll just push out.
OK So I guess I was overthinking this. I was thinking about keeping as much grease away from the rotor as possible. I was going to slide the rubber boot on to the pin dry and then lube the end of the pin that goes into the hole rendering the boot completely free of grease. But you are saying to lube the pin first and then slide the boot on and then there will be a very small amount of grease inside of boot right.
The boot is intended to be a barrier from any foreign contaminants and expand/contract with the pins. The portion of pin under that boot can still slide in the carrier, therefore it should also have a thin layer of grease as well. As the pins move back and forth, the grease will eventually even out. So yes, there will be a light layer of grease under that boot as well.
What was the torque setting for the rotor?
Here is the torquing procedure for the wheel bearing ruclips.net/video/iY-KsCo-rI0/видео.html
Why the hell does every video of this skip.iver putting the wheel bearings in the rotor? Does the extra metal piece that comes with the bearing just for hammering it in or am I supposed to put the bearing in it and them hammer it in the rotor? This is frustrating
You didn't show how to take the abs ring off and transfer to new rotor.
You can't transfer it. Someone had installed the wrong rotors on this truck and the abs ring is an option when ordering new rotors.
Those rings are EASILY damaged. If you have ABS,but sure to get rotors with rings installed!!!!!
It’s not a 24mm nut.
My ranger has no caliper bolts! horrible design
Sure it wasn't rusted heads? The opposite side of this truck actually had that issue, I had to use vise grips to remove the bolt.
Lol there are NO BOLTS!! literally!! Its just 2 long rubber filled metal "pins" with a small tab that keeps them from backing out, MOST of the time. Had a pin come out while driving and it jamed the caliper between the rim and bracket! truck is a 93, also my 91 (square body) has this design. single piston also
Holy that is a terrible design! I had an 89 truck, but I don't ever remember them having this. Then again that was over 10 years ago lol. I would considering having some special bolts machined for that instead.