For my 2007 Liberty 90,000 miles it was the Injector electrics. For some dumbass reason I didn't ohm the #1 Injector leads. When i eventually did, it ohmed at 148 instead of around 12.5. So that explains why I had #1 low rpm misfire under 500rpm and a code for #1 inj circuit open. Likely upon startups, bc it started and idles fine. Doesn't have detectable misfires otherwise. Bought reman Denso 6-pack on ebay for $72. I'm just replacing that one Injector #1 bc I'm like that, so I'm gonna try to do that without having to remove anything but the #1 and #3 coils and fuel rail bolts on both sides. Maybe the air intake if necessary.
Have code faults for #1 misfire, fuel injector 1 circuit open, and Bank #1 lean. There is a slight rough idle, but no misfire perceived, and it runs fine under load and high speed. Doesn't burn oil. Gets 15mpg combined mileage. Ran fine when I got it 64,000 miles. Now it has 110,000 miles. It has had this issue for about 10,000 miles. Not getting worse, but so far plugs and coils and cleaning intake hasn't corrected it. I checked and cleaned Injector and Coils wiring connections and they look good too. #1 Injector plug had some oil in it, somehow. Cleaned it very well with first brake cleaner, then electronics cleaner. Let it dry and reassembled. Can bad Injector o-ring cause this? I already ruled out spark plug, coils, valves, and did intake cleaning. I have not checked orings and the wiring from #1 Injector to the computer control. And don't really know how to. Any tips on checking Injector and its wiring and control while it's still in the head? Thanks!
Sorry for the late response You can try moving or swapping injectors #1 and 3, and see if the code changes There is also a resistance check you can do on the injector. However, mine tested fine (12.5 ohms) but was still faulty
You make it look easy... I'm not a professional but it doesn't look like to hard of a job my question is how likely will the washers or orings get stuck in the cylinder? I may attempt this myself
I didn't have any that got stuck in the cylinder or fuel rail, one of them did fall off the injector as I was removing it. Once I removed the spark plug coils that I needed out, I took a cut piece of rag and gently stuffed it into the hole where the plug is, this way nothing will fall inside of there. I also used some compressed air to clean any loose debris before I started.
Before I get that far I have a 2007 Grand Cherokee with the 3.7 engine the problem I'm having is intermittent hard start or extended crank no codes I replaced the fuel pump in April ..a few weeks ago I was sitting idle for about 1/2 hour the jeep got hot so I went in the store quick it wouldn't start when I came back out it cooled off more started extended crank it was low on fuel at the time.. do you think my filter is clogged or my injectors or bad coils I have replaced plug's thermostat cam and crankshaft position sensors ignition switch so far. I don't want to keep playing guessing games it gets expensive lol do you have any idea what it might be?
Could be a fuel pressure bleed down between starts Before you actually crank it over, try leaving the key in the on position for a few seconds to prime the fuel before it actually cranks. Also, theres something called a residual check valve in the fuel tank. Apparently it keeps pressure in the system when the car is turned off, for the next start, not sure if you changed that also with the pump Can maybe also try some fuel injector cleaner mixed in with the gas.
@importgarage I've been having the same issue and it's not bleed out in my case it has something to do with the initial over heating like something electrical got fried I've change plugs coils intake air sensor and I got the injectors today I need help only codes I get are cyl#2 cly# 3 to rich and random mutipal misfire
The p0201 code should be related to the injector. If you replaced it already you could try checking the electrical wires and connector. I also swapped injectors from cylinder 1 and 3 and the code did switch, that seems to be the easiest way to verify a bad injector.
Is it possible to add a written text to the video so that we can translate it because I do not speak English very well? I hope that you will add a written text to what you say, thank you
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Thank you for this amazing video just to let you know I was able to complete this job in a parking lot of an O'Reilly's thanks to you
Wow very nice!
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Excellent camera work. I can listen to it at 1.75 speed and it still makes sense to this carport mechanic with fleet of 8 old beaters 😆
Informative and straightforward, quality video, my friend.
For my 2007 Liberty 90,000 miles it was the Injector electrics. For some dumbass reason I didn't ohm the #1 Injector leads. When i eventually did, it ohmed at 148 instead of around 12.5. So that explains why I had #1 low rpm misfire under 500rpm and a code for #1 inj circuit open. Likely upon startups, bc it started and idles fine. Doesn't have detectable misfires otherwise.
Bought reman Denso 6-pack on ebay for $72. I'm just replacing that one Injector #1 bc I'm like that, so I'm gonna try to do that without having to remove anything but the #1 and #3 coils and fuel rail bolts on both sides. Maybe the air intake if necessary.
So is cylinder number 1 on the drivers side front or the middle
Correct, driver side front. the cylinder layout diagram is at 2:05
Have code faults for #1 misfire, fuel injector 1 circuit open, and Bank #1 lean.
There is a slight rough idle, but no misfire perceived, and it runs fine under load and high speed. Doesn't burn oil. Gets 15mpg combined mileage. Ran fine when I got it 64,000 miles. Now it has 110,000 miles. It has had this issue for about 10,000 miles. Not getting worse, but so far plugs and coils and cleaning intake hasn't corrected it.
I checked and cleaned Injector and Coils wiring connections and they look good too. #1 Injector plug had some oil in it, somehow. Cleaned it very well with first brake cleaner, then electronics cleaner. Let it dry and reassembled.
Can bad Injector o-ring cause this? I already ruled out spark plug, coils, valves, and did intake cleaning.
I have not checked orings and the wiring from #1 Injector to the computer control. And don't really know how to.
Any tips on checking Injector and its wiring and control while it's still in the head? Thanks!
Sorry for the late response
You can try moving or swapping injectors #1 and 3, and see if the code changes
There is also a resistance check you can do on the injector. However, mine tested fine (12.5 ohms) but was still faulty
You make it look easy... I'm not a professional but it doesn't look like to hard of a job my question is how likely will the washers or orings get stuck in the cylinder? I may attempt this myself
I didn't have any that got stuck in the cylinder or fuel rail, one of them did fall off the injector as I was removing it.
Once I removed the spark plug coils that I needed out, I took a cut piece of rag and gently stuffed it into the hole where the plug is, this way nothing will fall inside of there.
I also used some compressed air to clean any loose debris before I started.
Before I get that far I have a 2007 Grand Cherokee with the 3.7 engine the problem I'm having is intermittent hard start or extended crank no codes I replaced the fuel pump in April ..a few weeks ago I was sitting idle for about 1/2 hour the jeep got hot so I went in the store quick it wouldn't start when I came back out it cooled off more started extended crank it was low on fuel at the time.. do you think my filter is clogged or my injectors or bad coils I have replaced plug's thermostat cam and crankshaft position sensors ignition switch so far. I don't want to keep playing guessing games it gets expensive lol do you have any idea what it might be?
Could be a fuel pressure bleed down between starts
Before you actually crank it over, try leaving the key in the on position for a few seconds to prime the fuel before it actually cranks.
Also, theres something called a residual check valve in the fuel tank. Apparently it keeps pressure in the system when the car is turned off, for the next start, not sure if you changed that also with the pump
Can maybe also try some fuel injector cleaner mixed in with the gas.
@importgarage I've been having the same issue and it's not bleed out in my case it has something to do with the initial over heating like something electrical got fried I've change plugs coils intake air sensor and I got the injectors today I need help only codes I get are cyl#2 cly# 3 to rich and random mutipal misfire
@@importgarage1715 thanks for the video super helpful I'll let you know if the injectors work
Big help. My issue is that the cylinder 1 misfire code keeps coming on and off.....any ideas?
The p0201 code should be related to the injector. If you replaced it already you could try checking the electrical wires and connector. I also swapped injectors from cylinder 1 and 3 and the code did switch, that seems to be the easiest way to verify a bad injector.
Thanks I needed this
Is it possible to add a written text to the video so that we can translate it because I do not speak English very well? I hope that you will add a written text to what you say, thank you
Just hit the CC and select your language if they have yours as an option, it’s pretty accurate for the most part.