I agree that over-torqueing the filter cap may be the cause of some of these plastic housing failures. I've never measured how hard I torque that plastic cap, but it's very easy to get carried away with tightening it because the plastic threads don't give you a very good "feel" for how tight you're getting it. I've found that a light touch is all that's necessary to seal it up, what with the fresh o-ring and all. If you find the "filter media cylinder" is kinda twisted and distorted when you remove it at oil/filter change time, perhaps the cap was tightened too much last time.
It’s almost scary to trust someone to do your oil changes at a service stop nowadays. Knowing how critical and delicate those upper components are, I only will do the oil changes for as long as I own my jeep! Thanks for joining me on this repair today🍻
Just completed this project today on daughters 2013 Wrangler. Some advice…. Order new oil and coolant sensors (OEM). I know it shows him reusing his but let me tell you, these things are WELDED on and if your luck like me, it will just break loose the thread housing in the oil cooler and just spin. So after an hour trying to track down some sensors on a Sat, I finally got everything back together after about 6 total hours (could have been done in 4 if it wasnt for the sensors and gallon of oil/coolant to clean up in the valley. Another tip, you don’t need to disconnect the fuel injectors on the drivers side.. just the coil packs. The injectors will come off with the lower manifold as the rail will still be attached. Good luck and take your time. This video saved a lot of headaches. You can do it!
I just wanted to take a moment to thank you for doing this video. I have a 2016 Rubicon and got the unwanted drips underneath. Ordered a replacement off rock auto and installed over the course of a few days. It feels pretty good to save over $1000 :-) thank you again so much. Your video was much appreciated!
I did it today following your Instructions, I was able to do it, took about 5-6 hours pausing the video and rewinding it here and there but am glad it done and hopefully no more leaking oil and coolant
Thank you for a thorough and concise tutorial - it gave me the confidence to knock this project out. Three items I'll add: Please verify that the channel at the end of the oil pressure sensor chamber is complete. I performed this install only to be met with a terrifying 0 psi reading - I discovered the channel wasn't completely milled after much trouble shooting. Debur any flashing inside the aluminum body - you don't want that working its way into your vehicle. You must burp the radiator/hoses after this project, before driving. You're going to introduce a lot of coolant-blocking air during the reservoir install. FYI, the burping process is simple, especially with a radiator fill kit.
This is all great advice, as I did a once over on my casting with some sand paper and a file as well as thoroughly checking over the quality. My friend is a tool and die tech at Tesla I showed him the parts and he was saying it’s good but Its gnarly casting. lol don’t buy cheap here I’ve seen a few knockoffs and they are not up to par. Thanks for watching 🍻
Thank you so much for such an informational video, I followed every step you took and was able to do the oil cooler replacement. I definitely would suggest to change spark plugs while there along with pcv valve if needed. Pcv valve is a pain on this particular engine in the wrangler but take the passenger wheel off along with inner fender and trust me, you'll get it done in around 45 mins to an hour, opposed to 6 hours trying to argue with it from the top.
Hi Dustin Great detailed video. I am about to do this job on a 2019. How much would this job be at a dealer? How long did it take you to perform this job? Thank you for your time & thumb up from me!
People have mentioned anywhere from 500 to 2k on this job from dealer. Just depends how well you can negotiate. As a seasoned mechanic doing this job It woukd be 4-6 hrs including parts. 500-1k seems fair, the doorman kit has been changing in price but I’d recommend it because it has most everything you’ll need. After the job let me know how much you would charge and how many hours it took to do the job.? Thanks for watching 🍻
So, had this done by a local repair shop yesterday. Drove the jeep for 1 mile and motor was knocking and shut down, this video was a big help to understand the repair what’s your thought’s engine was full of oil.
I’m about to do some searching to see if this is the problem on our 2014 Jeep. Started pouring out down the bell housing onto the frame and all over the driveway. From what I have read so far it’s likely this, the rest main seal or a valve cover gasket, but I’m leaning towards this. It was fine with no issues then it got down to -10 degrees and I went out to start it, when I went back out oil everywhere. Thanks for the video!! Excellent job and explained very well
@@kevindale2371 it’s very likely, shine a light up top the valley of the engine if you see oil that’s the big sign. Looks exactly like a rear main from down below. But most of the time it’s not, but the oil cooler housing. 🍻
Thanks for this video it definitely helped change the oil cooler. Any idea why I’m not getting codes P0010!? I’m trying to sell my Jeep and it like that person you cannot get out of your house with all the right hints. HELP!
Gentlemen, if you have a leak with your oil housing filter, DO THIS UPGRADE the first time around! I went with the cheap route with the plastic housing again and already it's cracked/warped for the second time. I now have oil building up in the valley of the engine yet again. Keep in mind that these plastic housings are prone to cracking and it WILL happen to your Jeep - it's only a matter of time. Chrysler needs to be sued for this. Knowingly putting a very cheap product that will inevitably crack is a sales tactic! And a HUGE shoutout to @Doorman for bringing this much needed upgrade to the market!
Unfortunately the Dorman housing was back ordered everywhere for awhile. I found one vendor that wanted $350 for the only one I could find. When the one I installed goes bad, hopefully I can source an aluminum Dorman. I refused to buy one of the Chinese knockoffs.
The main reason for cracked housings is over-tightening the cap. But even if you manage to not cause the housing to crack, the biggest issue is that the gaskets on the bottom fail over time. And unfortunately, the aluminum housing does nothing to prevent gasket failure.
At the 2:30 mark he disconnects an electrical adapter plug and it looks so easy when he does it but I can’t figure out how do get that top housing to slide down towards the front to get it to disconnect. He does it so effortlessly.
squeeze the side tabs on the sides of the outter part of the connector and pull and slide it back at the same time away towards the front of the engine.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and including the torque sequence. I ordered a replacement cooler yesterday and hope to do mine this weekend. Any advice you might have would be greatly appreciated.
did this job yesterday..great walk through video. only thing i added to my job is i upgraded to felpro gaskets and went ahead and changed the plugs and coils.
This was the best tutorial out of the handful that I watched. Saved about $600 after buying all of the parts and tools that were needed, as opposed to having a shop do the work. Took about 10 hours in total for me. The coolant sensor was the most nerve-wracking part because it was stuck on tight. Don't try to take an impact to it because you could damage the sensor. I recommend taking a torch to the threads for a couple of minutes and then twisting it off. Much easier to remove from the housing that way. Getting a pick set was VERY helpful for the injector plugs too.
Thanks for all the tips. I have to tackle this job shortly! I'll give you a tip...you should wrap the Teflon tape in the opposite direction. The way you wrapped it, it will back off when you thread it into the housing.
At the 11:00 minute mark, you state to torque the cooler bolts to 35 IN/LBS. The manual that came with my Dorman Oil Cooler kit says to torque them to 106 IN/LBS (12 Nm)
I just checked the one I'm installing, and step 5 says cooler to housing bolts 106 in lbs. Step 8 is installing the o ring. 35 in lbs isn't very tight. I pray this helps someone, and God bless you!
Hi! Thank you for your detailed video. While I tried to be as careful as I could and you had warned in your video, it appears some of those brittle pieces went down the intake. I tried vacuuming it out as well as the air pressure but I believe some of it went down. Thr pieces were so brittle that I could turn them to powder in my hand. What kind of damage am I looking at at this point? You advice is highly appreciated. Thanks.
Try blowing out with compressed air, if that does not work try necking down your shop hose to a smaller tube that can reach down in those tight crevices, you might have to get creative to make it work, but that should suck and force anything out.
It’s hard to say what damage if any at this point, what ever is in there will be forced pass the exhaust valves and that you hope it makes it through without damaging a valve.
I replaced the cooler filter housing, everything was fine. But the check engine light came on and the code P0020 came up. Variable valve oli control failure. Why was that and where is it located?
Thanks so much for the video it was a big help for me. But question I did my change play by play with your vid. Got it all done out it back together. I started her up and went around the block. I pulled in my driveway and I have oil leaking everywhere like way worse than before now. Can u please tell me what I could have possibly done wrong. I double checked everything before putting it back together
Did you clean out the old oil , there may have been some residual pooled somewhere you didn’t wipe up or clean ? I suppose it’s possible an oring didn’t seat properly or one way damaged while the housing was getting set into position. Did you lube the oring prior to installation? Sensors could also be leaking or damaged. It’s to hard to tell what’s going on as I’m not there.
I vacuumed all the oil puddles before placing the new housing in. The unit went in perfect I replaced all the O rings everything went back together so nicely and then bam its like a major leak underneath. I'm pulling everything back off tomorrow to assist it I just never did this job before and now I feel like I failed at some point somewhere. So frustrated with myself.
So the brand new oil housing I bought had a gasket missing on the bottom causing everything to just pour out. I pulled it all back off and put the old one back on, and it fixed it up. I do have a small leak from the old one, and the cause is the top right screw isn't going into the base. it's the only screw that no matter what I do won't catch. So, at this point, I'm ok with a minor leak compared to what happened with the new housing I had put on and take off. This vid definitely helped me and I hope this helps anyone who reads this. Cheers ✌🏼
Dustin, I’ve watch quite a few of these videos concerning oil cooler replacement. Yours is by far the best. THANK YOU! I especially love the detail in reinstalling. Most videos just say “do it in reverse”. There’s no mention of torque procedures. (Definitely not as detailed as yours). If you have the time. Maybe make closer video on those fuel injector connectors. You explained it well but I definitely needed to see it. Found it elsewhere, but again yours was still the most detailed one. I used another video to remove most of the parts, but I used yours all the way on reinstalling it all.
Amazing video. I did not know this was a problem with my vintage of Jeep. I have to admit my anxiety level was through the roof as i watched you disconnect and disassemble so much to do this. I am rerrified i might find a problem when i go to do my first home oil change this weekend. In my 2012. Anyway, it is nice to know tr here is a better part avaialble. Thank you for sharing your talent. Amazing to get in so deep and be so calm!
Great video, thanks for posting! I am just finishing up this project. The Dorman kit I purchased came with a new oil cooler and oil filter which was nice. As a sidebar, now is a fantastic time to change out your plugs and/or coil packs. Our plugs were in terrible condition, surprised how well it ran. We bought our rig used and it just turned 109K so I really had no idea what if any maintenance had been done.
It can be both, we have seen plastic crack where oil and coolant can mix between passages, this was least of my worries. the warping and or flexing of the housing is my main concern! Most people don’t service there own jeep, when you take it to the lube shops to be serviced the risk of this part failing increases as we don’t know who is working on our vehicles. The mechanic or lube tech can simply be having a bad day or not know and install your filter wrong, failing to check the relief valve or over torqued the cap to the housing flexing the unit disturbing the plastic housing orings, and gaskets. And from here I’m sure you can only imagine what els can go wrong next! Why chance that?
This was an amazing tutorial thank you . Just replaced it over the weekend following your video . The only issue I had was when I started it there was a loud knocking sound but after running it for a few minutes and revving it up a little it went away
I have the same question as another poster re: draining the oil/coolant before doing this task. Surely it would generate less mess when the cooler/housing is actually pulled? Other than material.... I don't see a down side. Am I missing something? (and thanks for the video plus lots of thanks to the folks posting how long it has taken them. I think I'm going to borrow a spare car from mom and get the few other tools I need and get into it!)
You should have replaced those sensors while you are in there. I am doing mine now and it will save you from going back for another round down the road. Great video!
Just watched your video. Today has been a calamity of events and fixing different parts and pieces on the jeep. I’m ironically enough it broke down in front of one of my best friends house that is an ASE mechanic so that’s helpful but we still gotta dig into it, so your video is great information before we even get started and I appreciate that you put it out there for everyone. It’s definitely gonna save us a lot of headache.
I just put in my oil cooler filter housing on my 2014 jeep Wrangler the locks on the injector plugs broken brittle so I had to tie up the lower intake to reach the housing pain in the rear end
Really appreciate your detailed breakdown and great camera angles. I was in the process of replacing the oil pressure sensor and while trying to remove the coolant sensor the entire unit snapped and half the thread is still inside the oil cooler housing 😅. So I’ll be replacing the oil cooler anyway because I also noticed a pool of oil all around the base of the engine. Might be a leak that’s throwing the oil sensor code. Oil cooler should arrive this weekend. Crossing my fingers 🤞🏾
I had a P0520 code pop up yesterday in my van ... oil pressure sensor circuit performance. Seems to be a common problem, and guess where that sensor is (at least I won't have to concern myself with taking the old sensor off the housing). And, there's a coolant leak that I can smell but not see, which has been like that for a while but I noticed a stronger coolant smell yesterday. (100,000 km on the van) Guess what job I've got coming up. My engine is transverse with less access but it ought to be basically the same job. Thanks for the video, very nicely done.
Great video, I just did my wife's Grand Cherokee. Tip tho....I totally drained the cooling system by pulling the lower rad hose.....no coolant came up from mine when I pulled it off. I was worried about coolant pushing up and draining down into the oil return ports so I drained mine. Also found on ours that the crossover pipe / thermostat was leaking coolant on the front of the engine, so I replaced that lovely piece of plastic with and aluminum one from Dorman as well. I had a hard time finding a Dorman 926-876, and no way was I going to order an off brand unit from Amazon, but I got one.
For years I had a tough time trusting my 3/8 drive torque wrench when tightening anything under 20 ft lbs. As I got older and made better money my anxiety forced me to invest in a quality 1/4 inch ratchet. even though later on I bought a digital Snap-On 3/8 that's probably very very accurate, I still felt it was a little bulky for the low torque stuff. I know it's probably just me being overly cautious but what does one do?
Absolutely I’ll keep you informed as time allows, I’ve seen the mixed reviews and I can say some of those are tru, id definitely advocate a run through with compressed air, deburr and sand off anything that’s not Finished and still rough. I almost did not install it. My friends a die cast tech at Tesla and his first words were that’s a gnarly cast. Haha anyway we decided that it was going to be ok. After a thorough inspection. so far two big trips in and still no leaks! Thanks for watching 🍻
thanks to your video it made my Oil Coolant swap a breeze. It did take me about 4 1.2 hours but I wanted to stay cool with the red clips on the left side. its very tight squeeze lol
Nice vid. I’m about to dive into this soon on my 14 JKUR. This part was already replaced once under warranty, but now I’m going back with the Dorman part. Heard the oil temp sensor is a common failure part so it’s a good idea to get one from MOPAR while you’re in it. I’m high miles so I’m hitting the spark plugs at the same time.
Thank you Thank you thank you. I used this video while I did the repair with lots of pause and reminds. The only thing that was hard was the 2 bolts in the back of both upper and lower. Saved 900 dollars.
I am impressed ! I had to have this filter housing replaced on my 2014 JK-- to me it like major surgery- and made me VERY glad I bought a life time warranty. I also have a 2000 SE Cherokee-- 4.0L inline 6-- I can work on it no problems- I wish things never got so complex - I love my JK but the complexity leaves me speech less. Thank you for a great video :)
I’m currently doing this replacement on my 2014 jk. At 3:45 you mentioned there’s two 13mm sockets below the two 10mm. I don’t see them anywhere. Are you sure that they’re there? I didn’t see you loosening them in the video. Only saw the top two nuts.
Yes if you feel the bracket further down opposite side, it rests on two studs that come off the exhaust that side head, you may or may not need to loosen those , but I feel it really helps out and loosen up that support bracket.🍻
Great tutorial! And to think all of this was because Chrysler cheaped out on a plastic part where there's lots of heat and pressure. I mean, what could go wrong, right?
Did you disconnect the fuel line from the rails? Or was there enough slack to place the lower out of the way? I seen that’s how it was at first, then appeared further when you cleaned it before reinstalling.
Yes The fuel line was never disconnected, I was able to keep on during the entire repair just turned out having way more slack in the end as things came apart . The manifold can also be rotated. 🍻
Should i go ahead and replace the oil filter adapter if i have to replace the oil pressure sensor on a 2013 Chrysler Town and Country Touring 2WD 3.6L FI DOHC 6cyl if I have Code P06DD? Thank you.
great info saved me about 1000$. some of the plastics tabs break when undoing on the injectors had to cut them and attach singular new ones. I have a 2014 and 10years of heat will make them brittle.
How did you remove the fuel injector on the passenger side without removing the metal plate? The plate has 10mm bolts behind the passenger front tire. I just cant get that part done
Did your Dorman cooler kit not come with an orange filter cap? I'm curious why you reused the old cap? Thank you for this video. I am confident I can do this job by myself.
@ATEMOFFROAD thanks! I already have the upgrade (and orange cap), just didn't realize you could purchase separately. I came across your video because I suspect my o-ring(s) may have failed and again, thank you,because I feel I can handle this job!
Posted both the housing and the kit, unfortunately it looks like just the housing is currently unavailable. But here is the link to the kit - Doorman kit 926-959: amzn.to/3KFBQHI. All links in the description box. Thanks for watching 🙏🍻
I just replaced my oil cooler with a Dorman aluminum housing. No leaks but now it’s smoking a little, is it because the old residue from when I removed the old one? I’m stressing
Other than the Doorman upgrade, are there other parts that could be upgraded while in this deep?? Oil/coolant sensors? Maybe the manifold to aluminum from plastic? Thanks
Honestly I am very annoyed with this project. I have opened this up 3 times already due to it still continuing to leak coolant. I even got a replacement for it and still keeps leaking. Got the same dorman aluminum one and no luck. Is there something i am doing wrong at this point I align everything and torque it to specs and followed the bolt spect to torque down in sequence and still having this problem. Even cleaned up well all the surfaces to place the new oil cooler. I feel like throwing a grenade to this jeep 😡😡 video you did was such in good detail enjoyed it. Thanks.
What year is your jeep? Recently read that mopar made a revision to there oil filter housing orings. They have changed the colors from black to red on some certain years. They might sell you that oring for the Nipple just below the cap that is inserted into the block. It’s unfair that you have to go in for a 3rd time I hope you get this resolved soon 🍻
I have a 213 Rubicam jeep it leaks oil on My driveway it seems it need to repair can you recommend a place. That can fix. A good. One and how much it will cost
It’s very likely, take a flashlight and look down on top of the engines Valley below the housing, usually leaks right there at the o ring. Oil puddling up. This is mainly because shops doing the quick serve oil changes over torque the cap and causes the entire housing to twist and flex! I’m sure the housing and o rings can fail , but I suspect this could be a possible cause! Thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD well, I just did the change to a Dorman aluminum housing, and I did pull off the lower 3/4 water pump hose into a catch pan. Saved some antifreeze, but filling through the overflow took sometime, but all’s well. Knock on wood that it’s fixed as it takes sometime ( if it is leaking) for the oil to refill the valley, and begins dripping off the back of the transmission. So fingers crossed 🤞. Thanks again for such a detailed video…
Thanks for this. Excellent Video. I have two jeeps with this engine. I think I would have changed the sensors and the cooler as well while I had it apart. My luck one would fail soon after changing the housing.
great video. thx! a question. In your video, you mentioned Doorman 926-876, but in your description there is also Doorman kit 926-959. Are both OK and the same parts and both OK to install? or is there any difference? thanks
@@ralphderkapitaen9875 both are the exact same housing. Just one is a more complete kit with new oil cooler and filter cap so it will cost a bit more. This video covers swapping all the original parts over to the new aluminum housing.
@@ATEMOFFROAD btw the 2 sensors that are attached to it. Is it worth replacing these 2 as well? Not sure how long they last or if they are prone to failing, but if you already go this route and take it all apart, it might be worth to just replace the 2 sensors that are attached to the cooler as well, right?
Dude! Great video, well done all around. I am a new fan. I am thankful for finding you and I appreciate your help. Bought a tee shirt too ! Like the design and the message :)
No it was thought that the mopar one did, as to why it’s plastic. That they couldn’t put the valve inside cast aluminum. I cut the plastic one up there is no magical valve. 🤷♂️🍻
Excellent video. I just did my caravan following you along the way. A couple of details were different for me, but your video is a great help, thanks for posting!
Great video! I am planning to do this job this weekend. I have seen several others say they changed their oil? Mine is full right now. It doesn’t look like I should lose that much. No neee to replace now. Agree?
If your due and your already there why not? I didn’t because I had just changed the oil about 3 weeks before all this. So I just ended up topping it off
Great video, but one question. The instructions for this oil cooler say to tighten the oil cooler screws to 106 inch pounds. This is also what I find everywhere on the Internet. You’re saying 35 inch pounds. Can anyone verify?
I’m about to do this fix on my Jeep jk 2014. They sell that same housing kit on Amazon for $80pre built with all the sensors. Am I missing something, why spend 3x on the dorman? Would you not trust the ones on Amazon?
For what it is, it may be worth to try the inexpensive brand. But the way I look at it is what is your time worth and are you willing to make the second visit of something doesn’t go as planned? Sometimes foreign sensors don’t work well the oem equipment so there could be risk there as well. I just don’t know enough and from pass history is I don’t take chances on stuff like this anymore. I’ve been fooled for deep fake cheap parts that are not genuine and have had bad experiences in the past where if I didn’t know better could have been catastrophic to my engine.
@dommark44ok Did you end up installing one of the Amazon ones? I'm getting ready to do mine. I went with one off Amazon that had good review rating with a good number of reviews. It seems the bad thing with them is the sensors, so I already bought new OEM sensors from Mopar to put in it.
So i finally changed mines, luckily the metal oil cooler comes as a complete set with upper and lower seals as well as oil cooler and oil filter. So you do not have to unplug the fuel injectors at the injectors just at the coil packs, all you have to do is remove the platic tabs that attach the wires to the motor just remove those and just the double sided screw on the throttle body bracket and all of it will come off
I have 2012 jeep Wrangler and bought dorman for just under 220 with shipping from rock auto. Just a tip depending on mileage my waterpump crapped out a few months ago and took out belt and pulley and then couldn't figure out why it was overheating, turns out radiator was clogged and not flowing coolant big issue with junk radiators
Was your undercarriage cover in oil by your tranny. I see liquid by my filter housing and have a bunch of oil under my jeep.problem is I found out when I got an oil change. I was missing about 2 quarts of oil when they extracted the old oil
Yes if the fluid on your tranny is not red and is brown it’s more than likely your oil cooler housing leaking. The engine oil will get all the way back over there. 🍻
Thank you sir. One more question. If your housing is bad. Will it shows on your engine oil pressure readings. Because I noticed sometimes my pressure shoots up to 75 and then drops back down to 31 area
Did you change upper and lower intake plenum gaskets while doing this ? I saw the lowers I believe. Just about to attempt this repair and making my parts list I'll need before actually starting. Great video thanks for doing it.
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I agree that over-torqueing the filter cap may be the cause of some of these plastic housing failures. I've never measured how hard I torque that plastic cap, but it's very easy to get carried away with tightening it because the plastic threads don't give you a very good "feel" for how tight you're getting it. I've found that a light touch is all that's necessary to seal it up, what with the fresh o-ring and all. If you find the "filter media cylinder" is kinda twisted and distorted when you remove it at oil/filter change time, perhaps the cap was tightened too much last time.
It’s almost scary to trust someone to do your oil changes at a service stop nowadays. Knowing how critical and delicate those upper components are, I only will do the oil changes for as long as I own my jeep! Thanks for joining me on this repair today🍻
Exactly what happened to me.
Just completed this project today on daughters 2013 Wrangler. Some advice…. Order new oil and coolant sensors (OEM). I know it shows him reusing his but let me tell you, these things are WELDED on and if your luck like me, it will just break loose the thread housing in the oil cooler and just spin. So after an hour trying to track down some sensors on a Sat, I finally got everything back together after about 6 total hours (could have been done in 4 if it wasnt for the sensors and gallon of oil/coolant to clean up in the valley. Another tip, you don’t need to disconnect the fuel injectors on the drivers side.. just the coil packs. The injectors will come off with the lower manifold as the rail will still be attached. Good luck and take your time. This video saved a lot of headaches. You can do it!
Thanks for watching and sharing 🍻
I just wanted to take a moment to thank you for doing this video. I have a 2016 Rubicon and got the unwanted drips underneath. Ordered a replacement off rock auto and installed over the course of a few days. It feels pretty good to save over $1000 :-) thank you again so much.
Your video was much appreciated!
Thank you I really appreciate it 🍻
I did it today following your Instructions, I was able to do it, took about 5-6 hours pausing the video and rewinding it here and there but am glad it done and hopefully no more leaking oil and coolant
Very cool, glad you got it going, thanks for watching 🍻
Thank you for a thorough and concise tutorial - it gave me the confidence to knock this project out.
Three items I'll add:
Please verify that the channel at the end of the oil pressure sensor chamber is complete. I performed this install only to be met with a terrifying 0 psi reading - I discovered the channel wasn't completely milled after much trouble shooting.
Debur any flashing inside the aluminum body - you don't want that working its way into your vehicle.
You must burp the radiator/hoses after this project, before driving. You're going to introduce a lot of coolant-blocking air during the reservoir install. FYI, the burping process is simple, especially with a radiator fill kit.
This is all great advice, as I did a once over on my casting with some sand paper and a file as well as thoroughly checking over the quality. My friend is a tool and die tech at Tesla I showed him the parts and he was saying it’s good but Its gnarly casting. lol don’t buy cheap here I’ve seen a few knockoffs and they are not up to par. Thanks for watching 🍻
I've watched 5 different videos on how to do this. Your video is the best I've seen.
Welcome to the channel, Thanks for watching I appreciate it
Thank you so much for such an informational video, I followed every step you took and was able to do the oil cooler replacement. I definitely would suggest to change spark plugs while there along with pcv valve if needed. Pcv valve is a pain on this particular engine in the wrangler but take the passenger wheel off along with inner fender and trust me, you'll get it done in around 45 mins to an hour, opposed to 6 hours trying to argue with it from the top.
All good points, if your all ready there and need them replaced why not 🍻
Why do you recommend changing the PCV valve?
Hi Dustin
Great detailed video. I am about to do this job on a 2019.
How much would this job be at a dealer?
How long did it take you to perform this job?
Thank you for your time & thumb up from me!
People have mentioned anywhere from 500 to 2k on this job from dealer. Just depends how well you can negotiate. As a seasoned mechanic doing this job It woukd be 4-6 hrs including parts. 500-1k seems fair, the doorman kit has been changing in price but I’d recommend it because it has most everything you’ll need. After the job let me know how much you would charge and how many hours it took to do the job.? Thanks for watching 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD Thank you for the response h i will surely keep updated on how much time it tooked me to complete this particular job. Have a great day!
So, had this done by a local repair shop yesterday. Drove the jeep for 1 mile and motor was knocking and shut down, this video was a big help to understand the repair what’s your thought’s engine was full of oil.
Unbelievable, sorry for your loss. Thanks for watching 🙏🍻
I’m about to do some searching to see if this is the problem on our 2014 Jeep. Started pouring out down the bell housing onto the frame and all over the driveway. From what I have read so far it’s likely this, the rest main seal or a valve cover gasket, but I’m leaning towards this. It was fine with no issues then it got down to -10 degrees and I went out to start it, when I went back out oil everywhere. Thanks for the video!! Excellent job and explained very well
@@kevindale2371 it’s very likely, shine a light up top the valley of the engine if you see oil that’s the big sign. Looks exactly like a rear main from down below. But most of the time it’s not, but the oil cooler housing. 🍻
Thanks for this video it definitely helped change the oil cooler.
Any idea why I’m not getting codes P0010!? I’m trying to sell my Jeep and it like that person you cannot get out of your house with all the right hints.
HELP!
Gentlemen, if you have a leak with your oil housing filter, DO THIS UPGRADE the first time around! I went with the cheap route with the plastic housing again and already it's cracked/warped for the second time. I now have oil building up in the valley of the engine yet again. Keep in mind that these plastic housings are prone to cracking and it WILL happen to your Jeep - it's only a matter of time. Chrysler needs to be sued for this. Knowingly putting a very cheap product that will inevitably crack is a sales tactic! And a HUGE shoutout to @Doorman for bringing this much needed upgrade to the market!
Thanks for joining me on this repair today 🍻
Unfortunately the Dorman housing was back ordered everywhere for awhile. I found one vendor that wanted $350 for the only one I could find. When the one I installed goes bad, hopefully I can source an aluminum Dorman. I refused to buy one of the Chinese knockoffs.
Heck yea doorman!
The main reason for cracked housings is over-tightening the cap. But even if you manage to not cause the housing to crack, the biggest issue is that the gaskets on the bottom fail over time. And unfortunately, the aluminum housing does nothing to prevent gasket failure.
Same here im ordering the aluminum one
At the 2:30 mark he disconnects an electrical adapter plug and it looks so easy when he does it but I can’t figure out how do get that top housing to slide down towards the front to get it to disconnect. He does it so effortlessly.
squeeze the side tabs on the sides of the outter part of the connector and pull and slide it back at the same time away towards the front of the engine.
Excellent video, and thank you for providing the torque specs for each step! Makes thinks way more manageable!
Thank you 🍻
Thank you for taking the time to make this video and including the torque sequence. I ordered a replacement cooler yesterday and hope to do mine this weekend. Any advice you might have would be greatly appreciated.
Awesome , just take your time and enjoy the process. 🍻
Great reference! I just replaced my oil cooler with a Dorman and this was very helpful. Thanks for taking the time to publish.
did this job yesterday..great walk through video. only thing i added to my job is i upgraded to felpro gaskets and went ahead and changed the plugs and coils.
Awesome good time to do all that.🍻
This was the best tutorial out of the handful that I watched. Saved about $600 after buying all of the parts and tools that were needed, as opposed to having a shop do the work. Took about 10 hours in total for me. The coolant sensor was the most nerve-wracking part because it was stuck on tight. Don't try to take an impact to it because you could damage the sensor. I recommend taking a torch to the threads for a couple of minutes and then twisting it off. Much easier to remove from the housing that way. Getting a pick set was VERY helpful for the injector plugs too.
Thanks for sharing your experience Garret. All good points. 🍻
Thanks for all the tips. I have to tackle this job shortly!
I'll give you a tip...you should wrap the Teflon tape in the opposite direction.
The way you wrapped it, it will back off when you thread it into the housing.
Good catch , I realized that after installing as there was already dope on the sensor threads that held it all together! No leaks 👍🏼
do you think it would be good to drain the engine oil and coolant before starting this job to keep mess to a min. by the housing area.
At the 11:00 minute mark, you state to torque the cooler bolts to 35 IN/LBS. The manual that came with my Dorman Oil Cooler kit says to torque them to 106 IN/LBS (12 Nm)
Double check step 8
I just checked the one I'm installing, and step 5 says cooler to housing bolts 106 in lbs. Step 8 is installing the o ring.
35 in lbs isn't very tight.
I pray this helps someone, and God bless you!
Hi! Thank you for your detailed video. While I tried to be as careful as I could and you had warned in your video, it appears some of those brittle pieces went down the intake. I tried vacuuming it out as well as the air pressure but I believe some of it went down. Thr pieces were so brittle that I could turn them to powder in my hand. What kind of damage am I looking at at this point? You advice is highly appreciated. Thanks.
Try blowing out with compressed air, if that does not work try necking down your shop hose to a smaller tube that can reach down in those tight crevices, you might have to get creative to make it work, but that should suck and force anything out.
It’s hard to say what damage if any at this point, what ever is in there will be forced pass the exhaust valves and that you hope it makes it through without damaging a valve.
I replaced the cooler filter housing, everything was fine. But the check engine light came on and the code P0020 came up. Variable valve oli control failure. Why was that and where is it located?
Thanks for the great video! Went with a new aluminum housing and my wife’s jeep is back rolling.
Awesome, glad it could help! Welcome to the channel 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD definitely. Look forward to seeing more of your videos!
Thanks so much for the video it was a big help for me. But question I did my change play by play with your vid. Got it all done out it back together. I started her up and went around the block. I pulled in my driveway and I have oil leaking everywhere like way worse than before now. Can u please tell me what I could have possibly done wrong. I double checked everything before putting it back together
Did you clean out the old oil , there may have been some residual pooled somewhere you didn’t wipe up or clean ? I suppose it’s possible an oring didn’t seat properly or one way damaged while the housing was getting set into position. Did you lube the oring prior to installation? Sensors could also be leaking or damaged. It’s to hard to tell what’s going on as I’m not there.
I vacuumed all the oil puddles before placing the new housing in. The unit went in perfect I replaced all the O rings everything went back together so nicely and then bam its like a major leak underneath. I'm pulling everything back off tomorrow to assist it I just never did this job before and now I feel like I failed at some point somewhere. So frustrated with myself.
@@randalwarren109well don’t leave us hanging. What happened?? What was causing the leak??
So the brand new oil housing I bought had a gasket missing on the bottom causing everything to just pour out. I pulled it all back off and put the old one back on, and it fixed it up. I do have a small leak from the old one, and the cause is the top right screw isn't going into the base. it's the only screw that no matter what I do won't catch. So, at this point, I'm ok with a minor leak compared to what happened with the new housing I had put on and take off. This vid definitely helped me and I hope this helps anyone who reads this. Cheers ✌🏼
You are my hero. LOL. I am on day one of doing this but I screwed up a sensor. I will buy it tomorrow at a dealer. This is an excellent tutorial.
Thank you 🍻
Dustin, I’ve watch quite a few of these videos concerning oil cooler replacement.
Yours is by far the best.
THANK YOU!
I especially love the detail in reinstalling. Most videos just say “do it in reverse”. There’s no mention of torque procedures. (Definitely not as detailed as yours).
If you have the time. Maybe make closer video on those fuel injector connectors.
You explained it well but I definitely needed to see it.
Found it elsewhere, but again yours was still the most detailed one. I used another video to remove most of the parts, but I used yours all the way on reinstalling it all.
Thanks for watching 🍻🍻
Amazing video. I did not know this was a problem with my vintage of Jeep. I have to admit my anxiety level was through the roof as i watched you disconnect and disassemble so much to do this. I am rerrified i might find a problem when i go to do my first home oil change this weekend. In my 2012. Anyway, it is nice to know tr here is a better part avaialble. Thank you for sharing your talent. Amazing to get in so deep and be so calm!
Thanks for watching I appreciate it. 🙏🍻
Thanks!
Thank you for the tip, that’s so awesome.🍻
Great video, thanks for posting! I am just finishing up this project. The Dorman kit I purchased came with a new oil cooler and oil filter which was nice. As a sidebar, now is a fantastic time to change out your plugs and/or coil packs. Our plugs were in terrible condition, surprised how well it ran. We bought our rig used and it just turned 109K so I really had no idea what if any maintenance had been done.
I hear the kit is super 👍🏼 and yes if you’re there why not tune up the engine. Absolutely 💯 🍻
Is it the unit itself or gaskets? Specifically how is the aluminum any better than the stock piece? Thnx
It can be both, we have seen plastic crack where oil and coolant can mix between passages, this was least of my worries. the warping and or flexing of the housing is my main concern! Most people don’t service there own jeep, when you take it to the lube shops to be serviced the risk of this part failing increases as we don’t know who is working on our vehicles. The mechanic or lube tech can simply be having a bad day or not know and install your filter wrong, failing to check the relief valve or over torqued the cap to the housing flexing the unit disturbing the plastic housing orings, and gaskets. And from here I’m sure you can only imagine what els can go wrong next! Why chance that?
Also a great opportunity to port your upper and lower intake manifold. Definitely replace both sensors while you’re in there.
What sensors are you mentioning? Oil temp and pressure?
This was an amazing tutorial thank you . Just replaced it over the weekend following your video . The only issue I had was when I started it there was a loud knocking sound but after running it for a few minutes and revving it up a little it went away
awesome video, FYI that housing takes some serious manipulating to get in, I thought I bought the wrong part at first
Yes I feel the best way to do it is make sure it’s right above, level and flat going down in. The nipple in front goes in first. Thanks for watching 🍻
I have the same question as another poster re: draining the oil/coolant before doing this task. Surely it would generate less mess when the cooler/housing is actually pulled? Other than material.... I don't see a down side. Am I missing something? (and thanks for the video plus lots of thanks to the folks posting how long it has taken them. I think I'm going to borrow a spare car from mom and get the few other tools I need and get into it!)
Questions.. is it wise to drop your oil out first, and, you re-use the plastic cap??
It’s a good time to change oil , and replace the cap, I had just changed the oil and my cap was testing good 👍🏼
Called a local garage they said they replace 6 per week, primary reason for failure is engine heat. Thanks for making this video. Their cost was $1500
That’s too high IMO 🍻
You should have replaced those sensors while you are in there. I am doing mine now and it will save you from going back for another round down the road. Great video!
Great video just ask where can I buy the new oil filter housing the base I like it please let me know it will fit in my jeep Cherokee?
Just watched your video. Today has been a calamity of events and fixing different parts and pieces on the jeep. I’m ironically enough it broke down in front of one of my best friends house that is an ASE mechanic so that’s helpful but we still gotta dig into it, so your video is great information before we even get started and I appreciate that you put it out there for everyone. It’s definitely gonna save us a lot of headache.
I just put in my oil cooler filter housing on my 2014 jeep Wrangler the locks on the injector plugs broken brittle so I had to tie up the lower intake to reach the housing pain in the rear end
Yeah they are a pain. Thanks for watching 🍻
Dang man, you done the best job I’ve seen for this operation.
Thank you i appreciate it 🍻
Really appreciate your detailed breakdown and great camera angles. I was in the process of replacing the oil pressure sensor and while trying to remove the coolant sensor the entire unit snapped and half the thread is still inside the oil cooler housing 😅. So I’ll be replacing the oil cooler anyway because I also noticed a pool of oil all around the base of the engine. Might be a leak that’s throwing the oil sensor code. Oil cooler should arrive this weekend. Crossing my fingers 🤞🏾
Awesome that you enjoyed the video. Bummer it broke. Hope all goes well. 🍻
I had a P0520 code pop up yesterday in my van ... oil pressure sensor circuit performance. Seems to be a common problem, and guess where that sensor is (at least I won't have to concern myself with taking the old sensor off the housing). And, there's a coolant leak that I can smell but not see, which has been like that for a while but I noticed a stronger coolant smell yesterday. (100,000 km on the van) Guess what job I've got coming up. My engine is transverse with less access but it ought to be basically the same job. Thanks for the video, very nicely done.
Good luck and thanks for joining me on this repair today 🍻
Great video, I just did my wife's Grand Cherokee. Tip tho....I totally drained the cooling system by pulling the lower rad hose.....no coolant came up from mine when I pulled it off. I was worried about coolant pushing up and draining down into the oil return ports so I drained mine. Also found on ours that the crossover pipe / thermostat was leaking coolant on the front of the engine, so I replaced that lovely piece of plastic with and aluminum one from Dorman as well. I had a hard time finding a Dorman 926-876, and no way was I going to order an off brand unit from Amazon, but I got one.
Good idea 🍻
Dude! Doesn't get any better than that for an instructional video, truly superb stuff. SUBSCRIBED
Thank you 🍻
Is this compatible with the baxter performance oil filter replacement upgrade package?
For years I had a tough time trusting my 3/8 drive torque wrench when tightening anything under 20 ft lbs. As I got older and made better money my anxiety forced me to invest in a quality 1/4 inch ratchet. even though later on I bought a digital Snap-On 3/8 that's probably very very accurate, I still felt it was a little bulky for the low torque stuff. I know it's probably just me being overly cautious but what does one do?
Get the 1/4” I have one but forgot to grab it from work. My mistake for thinking it was in my home tool box. But yes it worked 🍻
I have hard mixed thoughts in the dorman replacement properly fitting. I will be interested in how this unit still functions over time.
Absolutely I’ll keep you informed as time allows, I’ve seen the mixed reviews and I can say some of those are tru, id definitely advocate a run through with compressed air, deburr and sand off anything that’s not Finished and still rough. I almost did not install it. My friends a die cast tech at Tesla and his first words were that’s a gnarly cast. Haha anyway we decided that it was going to be ok. After a thorough inspection. so far two big trips in and still no leaks! Thanks for watching 🍻
thanks to your video it made my Oil Coolant swap a breeze. It did take me about 4 1.2 hours but I wanted to stay cool with the red clips on the left side. its very tight squeeze lol
🍻
Nice vid. I’m about to dive into this soon on my 14 JKUR. This part was already replaced once under warranty, but now I’m going back with the Dorman part. Heard the oil temp sensor is a common failure part so it’s a good idea to get one from MOPAR while you’re in it. I’m high miles so I’m hitting the spark plugs at the same time.
Good idea on Preventative maintenance, it’s a fun little job! Thanks for watching 🍻
Thank you Thank you thank you. I used this video while I did the repair with lots of pause and reminds. The only thing that was hard was the 2 bolts in the back of both upper and lower. Saved 900 dollars.
Awesome glad to see it worked out for you. Thanks for watching 🍻
I am impressed ! I had to have this filter housing replaced on my 2014 JK-- to me it like major surgery- and made me VERY glad I bought a life time warranty. I also have a 2000 SE Cherokee-- 4.0L inline 6-- I can work on it no problems- I wish things never got so complex - I love my JK but the complexity leaves me speech less. Thank you for a great video :)
That’s awesome a lifetime warranty was offered! Thanks for watching 🍻
I’m currently doing this replacement on my 2014 jk. At 3:45 you mentioned there’s two 13mm sockets below the two 10mm. I don’t see them anywhere. Are you sure that they’re there? I didn’t see you loosening them in the video. Only saw the top two nuts.
Yes if you feel the bracket further down opposite side, it rests on two studs that come off the exhaust that side head, you may or may not need to loosen those , but I feel it really helps out and loosen up that support bracket.🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD gotcha. I managed to get the upper manifold off without loosening those lower bolts. Thanks for the reply!
Great tutorial! And to think all of this was because Chrysler cheaped out on a plastic part where there's lots of heat and pressure. I mean, what could go wrong, right?
Did you disconnect the fuel line from the rails? Or was there enough slack to place the lower out of the way? I seen that’s how it was at first, then appeared further when you cleaned it before reinstalling.
Yes The fuel line was never disconnected, I was able to keep on during the entire repair just turned out having way more slack in the end as things came apart . The manifold can also be rotated. 🍻
Great video. Love the torque spec insert and clean-up during the work performed.
Thanks for joining me on this repair 🍻
Torque spec is hugely appreciated!!
Should i go ahead and replace the oil filter adapter if i have to replace the oil pressure sensor on a 2013 Chrysler Town and Country Touring 2WD 3.6L FI DOHC 6cyl if I have Code P06DD? Thank you.
If you have the money and time I’d say yes go for it🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD My mobile mechanic it will cost him $300.00 to do it. Do you think that’s reasonable. Thank you.
@@joemadison5527 yes that’s very good even if parts were not included
great info saved me about 1000$. some of the plastics tabs break when undoing on the injectors had to cut them and attach singular new ones. I have a 2014 and 10years of heat will make them brittle.
Awesome glad to help. 🍻
I replaced my OFH and new oil pressure sensor on my 17 wrangler and it’s still dumping oil from the valley. Not sure what else to replace
How did you remove the fuel injector on the passenger side without removing the metal plate? The plate has 10mm bolts behind the passenger front tire. I just cant get that part done
Did your Dorman cooler kit not come with an orange filter cap? I'm curious why you reused the old cap?
Thank you for this video. I am confident I can do this job by myself.
@@mcofer0980 you can buy the oil housing by itself or in a kit if available. There should be two links in the description box below. 🙏🍻
@ATEMOFFROAD thanks! I already have the upgrade (and orange cap), just didn't realize you could purchase separately. I came across your video because I suspect my o-ring(s) may have failed and again, thank you,because I feel I can handle this job!
Where can I buy this aluminum housing for my 2014 JKU. Rockauto offers 926-959 but you suggest
926-876 🤷🏾♂️
Posted both the housing and the kit, unfortunately it looks like just the housing is currently unavailable. But here is the link to the kit - Doorman kit 926-959: amzn.to/3KFBQHI. All links in the description box. Thanks for watching 🙏🍻
I just replaced my oil cooler with a Dorman aluminum housing. No leaks but now it’s smoking a little, is it because the old residue from when I removed the old one? I’m stressing
Other than the Doorman upgrade, are there other parts that could be upgraded while in this deep?? Oil/coolant sensors? Maybe the manifold to aluminum from plastic? Thanks
Is dormant making one for the later models. If if the later models have that issue. I have a 2020 jeep gladiator
I’m sure they will be in the market for it, it’s too soon to know now! 🍻
Honestly I am very annoyed with this project. I have opened this up 3 times already due to it still continuing to leak coolant. I even got a replacement for it and still keeps leaking. Got the same dorman aluminum one and no luck. Is there something i am doing wrong at this point I align everything and torque it to specs and followed the bolt spect to torque down in sequence and still having this problem. Even cleaned up well all the surfaces to place the new oil cooler. I feel like throwing a grenade to this jeep 😡😡 video you did was such in good detail enjoyed it. Thanks.
What year is your jeep? Recently read that mopar made a revision to there oil filter housing orings. They have changed the colors from black to red on some certain years. They might sell you that oring for the Nipple just below the cap that is inserted into the block. It’s unfair that you have to go in for a 3rd time I hope you get this resolved soon 🍻
I have a 213 Rubicam jeep it leaks oil on
My driveway it seems it need to repair can you recommend a place. That can fix. A good. One and how much it will cost
The bill is about 5 or more hours to have a shop repair this kind of leak. Are you in CA?
Update on the dorman install? Any leaks?
Zero leaks, still holding 🍻🍻
Do you need to drain the oil or coolant before removing everything?
You can but I didn’t, just topped everything off at the end
Did you have any issues using the Dorman gaskets? how is it holding up after 2 years?
@@andyyepez7893 just did the oil change, doorman gaskets still holding up 🍻
Are those the Dorman provided oring seals?
Yes 👍🏼
Got 2015 wrangler unlimited, saw oil today coming down side of tranny housing ! Seems like this is same issue you had! You agree? Enjoyed yourvideo
It’s very likely, take a flashlight and look down on top of the engines Valley below the housing, usually leaks right there at the o ring. Oil puddling up. This is mainly because shops doing the quick serve oil changes over torque the cap and causes the entire housing to twist and flex! I’m sure the housing and o rings can fail , but I suspect this could be a possible cause! Thanks for watching 🍻
Would you consider the aluminum housings being sold on Amazon that look just like Doorman, or only go with the trusted brand?
Can I swap out the sensors from my ‘14 jk oil cooler and put them on this aluminum housing?
Do you need to pre drain the radiator, to save the antifreeze?
It’s a good idea , but I didn’t 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD well, I just did the change to a Dorman aluminum housing, and I did pull off the lower 3/4 water pump hose into a catch pan. Saved some antifreeze, but filling through the overflow took sometime, but all’s well. Knock on wood that it’s fixed as it takes sometime ( if it is leaking) for the oil to refill the valley, and begins dripping off the back of the transmission. So fingers crossed 🤞. Thanks again for such a detailed video…
Thanks for this. Excellent Video. I have two jeeps with this engine. I think I would have changed the sensors and the cooler as well while I had it apart. My luck one would fail soon after changing the housing.
I noticed in upper intake plenum rear bottom right side 2 places where it looks like small hoses connect to. Where are those hoses coming from
I need this done to my jeep. Can you get it done for me ?
Nice video Dustin, we 76K miles I am sure my JK is not too far from this repair. Great step by step video, super easy to follow!
Thanks for checking it out, i appreciate it 🍻
great video. thx! a question. In your video, you mentioned Doorman 926-876, but in your description there is also Doorman kit 926-959. Are both OK and the same parts and both OK to install? or is there any difference? thanks
@@ralphderkapitaen9875 both are the exact same housing. Just one is a more complete kit with new oil cooler and filter cap so it will cost a bit more. This video covers swapping all the original parts over to the new aluminum housing.
@@ATEMOFFROAD btw the 2 sensors that are attached to it. Is it worth replacing these 2 as well? Not sure how long they last or if they are prone to failing, but if you already go this route and take it all apart, it might be worth to just replace the 2 sensors that are attached to the cooler as well, right?
@@ralphderkapitaen9875 sure if you have the means why not? I didn’t do it as mine were still good and still working.
Dude! Great video, well done all around. I am a new fan. I am thankful for finding you and I appreciate your help. Bought a tee shirt too ! Like the design and the message :)
Thank you I really appreciate it, I hope you enjoy the T-shirt as well. And welcome to the channel. 🍻
You’re saying the Dorman has a bypass relief valve that helps with cold starts? Similar to the Baxter anti-drainback valve unit?
No it was thought that the mopar one did, as to why it’s plastic. That they couldn’t put the valve inside cast aluminum. I cut the plastic one up there is no magical valve. 🤷♂️🍻
Does the aluminium housing not damage the sensors due to heat?
Excellent video. I just did my caravan following you along the way. A couple of details were different for me, but your video is a great help, thanks for posting!
Thanks for watching I appreciate it. How’s it holding up? 🍻
Great video! I am planning to do this job this weekend. I have seen several others say they changed their oil? Mine is full right now. It doesn’t look like I should lose that much. No neee to replace now. Agree?
If your due and your already there why not? I didn’t because I had just changed the oil about 3 weeks before all this. So I just ended up topping it off
@@ATEMOFFROADm
@@ATEMOFFROAD0
Great video, but one question. The instructions for this oil cooler say to tighten the oil cooler screws to 106 inch pounds. This is also what I find everywhere on the Internet. You’re saying 35 inch pounds. Can anyone verify?
I’ll need to go back and watch the video let me check
106 in lbs is what my instructions say.
God bless you!
No need to drain the coolant before starting?
It’s good practice, I did not. Thanks for watching 🍻
What size torque wrench did you use for the bolts when putting the new cooler in place?
3/8 drive foot lb torque wrench
So where was it leaking from ? im assuming the bottom of the cooler or the hoses .right.
Bottom of cooler at the seals 🍻
Thanks
I’m about to do this fix on my Jeep jk 2014. They sell that same housing kit on Amazon for $80pre built with all the sensors. Am I missing something, why spend 3x on the dorman? Would you not trust the ones on Amazon?
For what it is, it may be worth to try the inexpensive brand. But the way I look at it is what is your time worth and are you willing to make the second visit of something doesn’t go as planned? Sometimes foreign sensors don’t work well the oem equipment so there could be risk there as well. I just don’t know enough and from pass history is I don’t take chances on stuff like this anymore. I’ve been fooled for deep fake cheap parts that are not genuine and have had bad experiences in the past where if I didn’t know better could have been catastrophic to my engine.
@dommark44ok Did you end up installing one of the Amazon ones? I'm getting ready to do mine. I went with one off Amazon that had good review rating with a good number of reviews. It seems the bad thing with them is the sensors, so I already bought new OEM sensors from Mopar to put in it.
Did you burp the coolant system afterwards?
Yes
So i finally changed mines, luckily the metal oil cooler comes as a complete set with upper and lower seals as well as oil cooler and oil filter. So you do not have to unplug the fuel injectors at the injectors just at the coil packs, all you have to do is remove the platic tabs that attach the wires to the motor just remove those and just the double sided screw on the throttle body bracket and all of it will come off
I have 2012 jeep Wrangler and bought dorman for just under 220 with shipping from rock auto. Just a tip depending on mileage my waterpump crapped out a few months ago and took out belt and pulley and then couldn't figure out why it was overheating, turns out radiator was clogged and not flowing coolant big issue with junk radiators
Bummer at how many miles?, I’ll keep an eye out for that. Thanks for watching 🍻
Did any yall get an air pocket in your cooling system doing this job ?
I believe I'm fighting that right now
You’ll want to work that out, bleed off on thermostat housing . 🍻
@@ATEMOFFROAD
Got her licked 👌🏻
@@ATEMOFFROAD
You should have seen how many different tools I used to change out my o2 sensors ....
Had to be a personal record
how is the new oil cooler housing job holding up! my have to do mine
Holding up great! I’ll keep updating if you keep asking 🍻
Was your undercarriage cover in oil by your tranny. I see liquid by my filter housing and have a bunch of oil under my jeep.problem is I found out when I got an oil change. I was missing about 2 quarts of oil when they extracted the old oil
Yes if the fluid on your tranny is not red and is brown it’s more than likely your oil cooler housing leaking. The engine oil will get all the way back over there. 🍻
Thank you sir. One more question. If your housing is bad. Will it shows on your engine oil pressure readings. Because I noticed sometimes my pressure shoots up to 75 and then drops back down to 31 area
How’s the aluminum oil cooler housing holding up after a year?
Still holding up, and no leaks 👍🏼
Awesome. I’m putting one on this weekend. Didn’t really want to go back to plastic
Did you change upper and lower intake plenum gaskets while doing this ? I saw the lowers I believe. Just about to attempt this repair and making my parts list I'll need before actually starting. Great video thanks for doing it.
Yes the kit comes with both upper and lower gaskets! Good luck and thanks for watching 🍻
can that really fit onJK 2012 I have replaced with plastic plastic model 2014 was fit my concer is dorman is good and can fit on 2012
Check rock auto.com for fitment 🍻