Transmission Fluid and Filter Change - Jeep Wrangler JK - W5A580 - 60,000 Mile Service - Topsider
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- Опубликовано: 7 апр 2018
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It was time to change that fluid and filter in my Jeep, which has the 5-Speed Auto W5A580 Transmission. Here's the parts list for this service:
52108332-AA Gasket (Optional but recommended)
52108325-AA Filter
68218057-AB ATF+4 Fluid
Also, as mentioned in the video, here's the Topsider MVP that I used:
amzn.to/2JvJ0xI There are other extractors on the market... some cheaper and some more expensive. I just liked this one. 
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Awesome. Mechanic wanted to charge me $5000 to rebuild my transmission and stop a check engine code. I told him "Let's just try to change the fluid first". He told me I was wasting my time and he wouldn't service my transmission - only rebuild it. I did it myself. Cost me less than $100. Everything is shifting smoothly, and no more check engine light. This video is greatly appreciated!!!!
That mechanic was a crook.
@@theirthereandtheyre2947 Got over 2000 miles since transmission fluid change and no engine lights. Working great. Thanks again.
@@JesseChoupique I'm hoping for the same result!
I bought a used JKU Rubicon 2013 with 139K. It doesn't always shift great but no check engine light. Hoping trans service smoothes out the shifting!
@@whowho8470 I've got almost 8,000 miles since I did this operation and no issues. You can do it.
@@JesseChoupique my 08 will not shift out of first. Check engine light. Some slipping. Do you think this will fix it?
This video was VERY helpful. It made changing the transmission fluid take less than an hour. The Topsider recommendation was perfect. Thank you!
Great video, easy to follow. Thanks for taking the time to put this together.
Thanks for the video. I’m going to do my 60k change very soon. And luckily I have access to a full service garage 🙏🏼. Thanks again for the insight, much appreciated 💪😎👊
Man what a great video on this. Ordered a topsider, will go to the dealer and get enough fluid for the Power steering, Trans, and Transfer case. Looks pretty straightforward and good to see your ways of dealing with clearance issues and getting the forwardmost bolts appropriately tight.
Nice "How-To" video. I'll be doing my transmission service on my 2013 JK the same way you presented here. Thanks!
Thanks for doing this video. When I am ready to change mine, I will use this as one of my reference point for sure. The thing about doing maintenance myself is those tricky parts about getting at bolts and even breaking them free. Good tips in here to do that with this!
Thanks so much for this video. It helped me a LOT. Just finished doing this on my 2016 JKUR. So far no leaks.
How many quarts did yours take?
CPO...
Great vid as always.
I too am at 60k and waiting for winter to break. Lots of stuff on the shelf that needs attention.
You’ve reminded me that I have a decent oil extractor in the attic that needs to be put into service for this.
Thanks for your many tips and again as always, great job :)
Excellent video Overclocked, Thank you!!👍
Using the dealership wrench set works without dropping the exhaust or jacking the transfer case up to get to em. Came with the Jeep so I figured it will work without the extra attachments
Thank you so much for this video. This helped me tremendously , I am about to swap out my gasket as its leaking pretty bad . Sitting at 60k miles
Nice and simple clarification. Thanks. Steve
Suggestion... Loosen the pan bolts (not all the way) enough to make a space to use the Topsider once again to drain additional fluid from the pan. Simply slip the tube into the space created by loosening the bolts.
Good tip.
Just the tip. Hehe
That's pretty awesome man. Love that top sider!
Thanks for the great video. The topsider is now in my Amazon JK list.
Nicce job CPO, like the topsider idea!
Did this today and took me little over hour! Did the same! Super easy! Thanks!
Did you have to unbolt the exhaust, and is your jeep stock? 32 or 33 inch tires? sahara, or rubicon?
Thanks for the go by. Very well done.
This is a great post! Super informative.
The worst part for me was getting the pan around the exhaust on a stock setup. all my exhaust bolts are rusted beyond repair.
1) I had to jack the trans as high as it would go by removing the back (4) 16mm bolts that hold the trans to the rubber mount. (jack up until you can hear it crushing the sound deadening material on the trans tunnel). 3 of my trans mount bolts are rusted to the cross member. it was still a struggle multiple 4 letter words type of struggle.
2) To get the back torx bolt out I drilled a hole straight through the cross member. less than 3/8's. The cross member has a ton of holes in it already one more won't hurt.
I thank you for the video as it provides a good template to follow but for my stock rusted 8 year old JK things were not as easy.
Great video...at the very least, it shows what a tech at a dealer would do! thank you C3PO.
Just did mine.....WHAT A PAIN!!!!!!!!!!!! Wouldn't have tackled it, however, without your great video! The stealership wanted $480 to do mine. I bought a kit from Quadratech for $60 and did it myself. Boom.
Important maintenance on a Jeep. Do it long before 60K. My Jeep had more pick up and energy. I did mine at 40K and it was due.
The dealer told me not to. The dealer wants you to wait, so it’s out of warranty and your basically screwed. Good video
I was oddly happy to hear when you start your engine it sounds like hot garbage right at the start. I switched to 10-40 lucas oil and it runs a whole lot smoother though! But good video :) Much appreciate confirming my knowledge of this is sound for when I do it.
Gotta get this done on my 15 JKU I’m at 66k miles thanks for the video 👊🏻
AYUE SAME BRO 😂😂😂💪🏼
I gotta 2013 gecko green
Very gentle ! Nice job
Great and informative video
Thank you. Great work!
You are my role model!!!
Great work!
Your videos are great! Just got done doing my 2012, just to let others know, it is hard as hell to do without exaughst spacers.
cadillacvelocity how did you get it out???
I started having leaks and realized it was coming from the transmission cover seal then I realized that needed to be changed at 60k miles. I’m at 84k miles rn guess the leak was a blessing in disguise. I will replacing the filter, seal and new fluids soon. Ty for the video! Very informative! Much appreciated!
The manual actually states 60k if you use your vehicle for specific purposes. 120k if not.
Great video!
I made my own "topsider" years ago. Some stiff tubing (pex maybe?) and a 5 gal bucket with a lid. Drilled one hole in the lid for a tight fit with the tubing and another to fit my shop vac hose. Created suction in the bucket to pull fluids then shut off vac and let it siphon overnight. Used it on several vehicles.
Great Vid, glad I watched for the "gotchas". I am doing my 2010 Rubicon this weekend, however I opted to get a new transmission pan with the drain plug in it to swap out and will be using the lubelocker gasket. Because I saw this video in advance, I also ordered a pneumatic/manual fluid extractor (figured it would be nice to have when servicing my boat as well). I expect it to go much easier now that I saw you go through everything. Thanks!!!!
Did you get the new pan with a drain plug installed? If so, how did it work out? I have heard the plug is directly over the exhaust on the JK making it a pain.
@@sherifx5122 no, the drain plug is actually facing the oil drain plug (best way I can describe it. For future drains, it will be extremely easy. Only problem I am having with it, is it had a drip coming out for a day or so. Looks like I was able to clamp it down tighter and it seems to have done the trick. Just drove to New Orleans and back (from Florida) and I haven't hit a point that I needed to add fluid yet. I reached out to Dorman about it and they are sending me a different Drain Plug gasket.....so, if you get one, you may want to request the gasket first.....I am not sure why they don't include the new one to begin with.
Eric Bush I’m hesitant to do this, always afraid going to leak, same with those “switch” based drain plugs for the oil pan.
Awesome video brother
Good video. I'm getting ready to do this service as well as the transfer case and differentials on my 2014 JK. As you point out, you want to be sure there is a new O ring on the transmission filter. Like all similar automotive components with O rings or similar seals, you want to be certain that you install the new part with one, and only one, seal. Sometimes the old O ring can be stuck in place, so be sure when you change an oil filter, transmission filter, or similar part, that you account for ALL the O rings; i.e. new one in and, just as important, old one out.
Got 165k miles on jeep. Done three fluid changes, . Runs fine.
Nice. I'm gonna replace the oil and pan at 30-40k
I have a 2000 wrangler sport after taking the transmission pan down bought an aftermarket drain plug drilled a hole in pan, the drain plug had a nut that your Suppose to put on the the back of it after putting through the pan I didn’t do that I cut the drain plug down a lot and wielded it from the inside of the pan, works like a charm
Great video Sir Thanks
Great job!
Thank you! Great video
That’s awesome 💪😎
Haha amazing balance!
Thanks bud, helps me out a lot
Thank you very much.
Greatest video I’ve seen so far !
Thank you. I have subscribed.
Great video, would have been a real mess without using an oil extractor. Doesn't look to bad to do, especially compared to doing it on my Range Rover Sport (Trading in for another jeep)
Awesome video thank for all the info. PS maybe you could of used the MVP to suck the oil from the pan on the ground to avoid spilling more oil, just a thought. Thanks again
Muchas gracias!!
This is what I do: I have the dealer do the pan drop, filter change and pan cleaning. Filter and fluid is good for a VERY long time in my dodge avenger. I ordered 5 qt of mopar aft +4, and used the orange gas siphoned pump to siphon out all the atf I could through the dipstick. Replacing it with new, a week later I did it again with the remaining few quarts. My 2011 dodge avenger now has 172k miles and the atf filter was recently changed. And the fluid is nice and red..it should all last the life of the car, assuming it junks before 250k miles. 350$ I've spent on the transmission, and I shouldn't need to even touch it for a very long time. The atf +4 mopar is an ultra long lasting "fill for life" fluid that the owners manual doesn't say to change until 120k miles . I can confirm its true, I didn't get around to having the dealer tranny service until 145k miles it was dirty they said but everything is just fine..
Superbe expérience
Il faut contrôler à chaud huile rapport 80 degree parcourir 30 klm et après contrôle la mesure
Ici européen nous avons 2 filtre à charge pour la boite vitesse
Et 26 boulons sur bac carter
Merci encore Superbe 👍
beaucoup plus d huile car il y en a aussi dans le convertisseur
About to get to work!
thank you
Mityvac has a nice fluid evacuator too for like $55 too. I think that one is 8 litres then they have bigger ones. I bought it for different reasons but may be a good idea
You forgot the other tran filter 52108316AA 52108304AA
What about drilling a 1/2” hole for an access hole through cross member so you could sneak socket or extended torqs bit
Great video lots of good details to avoid problems, thank you but I am with the ones in the 30K mile club. for a few reasons one you did not do the converter which is ok if done at 30K in my mind. Also it is just cheap insurance and noticing how dark your fluid was it would have been nice have gotten it out sooner. Thank you again I am at 55K planning for the 2nd change (first was by dealer at 30K). PS side note not sure what year yours jeep is but engine oil spec was changed after 2012 on Pentastar engine from 5W-30 to 5W-20 same engine you can thank CAFE stds for the change. You may want to think about that, I like the idea of a thicker oil film, I am not worried about .01 MPG improvement. The manufacture is not worried about failure or wear after 150K but I am.
I change 2 quarts of trans fluid with every oil change to keep it fresh in between pan drops. I bought a case of Mopar ATF 4, and suck out what I can (JK/U has a very shallow pan compared to my Commander), usually about 1.5 - 2 Qts, and replace what I remove + 3-4 oz of “stick around” amount. I do my diffs and Xfer case every 20k miles. Right now, 44K miles on my 2016 JKU, at 60k will drop that pan. I’m surprised there is no screw that holds the filter in place, unless that filter sits on the floor of the pan. Again, I have so much clearance where you have none with the exhaust, I have a 2016 JKU 75th Anniversary Edition. I have like an inch or 2 clearance. I’ll take a pic when I have a chance.
Question: After warming up your Jeep/ Transmission, did you wait for it to cool down a bit before inserting that plastic tube from the TopSider?
I’m getting to do my fluid replacement using a TopSider I was concerned if the tube will melt.
Thank you for creating this video!
Just found your channel. Love it. Is that LED portable light handing from your hood a DIY creation?
Do you know what’s the torque spec for the 3 nuts holding the transmission to the crossmember? Also Great Video! Thank you very much!
Great video on the change. I like the additional comments about the flush. It's always good to be well informed. I am curious...no engine or trans skid plate? Seems like you offroad a lot and your transmission pan doesn't a mark on it.
Thanks for the video!! Totally helps!! We are changing out all of this transmission fluid this weekend. I need some help though. I'm having a problem with having to change out the torque converter clutch solenoid. P741 code Do you have a video that shows how to do that by any chance?
You made it look easy. Hopefully it goes that easy for me. Do you think you could of clamped the hose off and pumped some more to get more fluid out?
I just wish they designed a filter system that can be changed without removing the pan, a lot of folks just change the fluid and never the filter, that is the case with a “flush”, which I would never do, better to slowly introduce fluid replacement, especially if you did not replace it for 100-150K miles.
Hi, thanks for the video, very helpful!
Just have a doubt, the quantity of oil because I don't have an deep stick!! 😓
The one bolt beat me into submission...i can't lie
Great video! Have a difficult question. After changing my fluid on my 15 jeep wrangler sport jk I noticed my gears tend to climb higher in the rpm range and hesitant too switch gears. Everything is fine. Just that little problem. Thank you.
Great video. Is that am aftermarket guage with the temp readout? Im assuming it plugs into OBDII. If so what brand? Thanks
I see you have the superchips programer, I have the same one can you tell me what type of mount you are using for it. The back of it also Thanks Mike
Great vid.. Legend lov it
What size is the star tool? Also you kinda skipped over the part of raising it. so after you remove the skid plate was there anything else to remove and where did you put the jack?
My exhaust does not block those bolts (2016 JKU 75th Anniversary), looks to be plenty of clearance to to slide out that pan.
I know your video is a few years old, but I just did my 2013 wrangler, and I noticed in your video that it appears you did not fully seat the filter all the way. There is a notch on the opposite end , that when seated fully, the notch goes in a slot in the transmission and the filter goes up fully touching the bottom of the transmission. I bring this up to you because when I removed my pan, the filter was in the pan, I believe mine was changed by prior owner and did not seat it fully and it fell down.. I believe you may also find yours in the bottom of your pan, if you did not fully seat the filter.
Im a mailman using a 2017 rhd wrangler. I had the dealer replace fluid/filter @30k miles. They ended up snapping off several bolts on the pan. Ive been too scared to try it. I'm at 110k now. Ive had my oil changed 3 times. I have an oil suction device...maybe I'll try that and suck out oil every engine oil change.
Dorman makes an after market trans pan that has a drain plug!
I suck out and replace 2-3 quarts of trans fluid (Mopar ATF 4) when I do my oil changes at 5000 miles, only use Pennzoil Platinum synthetic 5W20 and Mopar OEM filter cartridge for oil. I do my differentials every 20k (Mopar 80W90 and LSD Additive) and Xfer case (Mopar ATF 4) every 20K. I’ll do my transmission full service at 60K. It may be overkill, but fluids are a lot cheaper than replacing the hardware, and I know I always have fresh lubrication and am using the best quality as I do it all myself for my very expensive vehicle (2016 Sahara 75th Anniversary edition).
I agree. What ur doing is preventative maintenance. It will save u from a potential future costly repair.
I recommend replacing the trans pan with one that has a drain plug so u can easily drain the ATF. It's stupid they don't make em like that from factory IMHO.
@@whowho8470 i heard it leaks, as reported from a few folks who installed it, but yes, would make it so much easier.
We will do this tomorrow. Question... why did you warm it up to temp, or at all, prior to removing the fluid? You sort of said why in your video, but I guess my real question is, was it still hot or warm when you stuck that tubing into the dipstick hole? I'll be using a standard hand pump siphon (2 hoses, Harbor Freight) and don't think it's a good idea to be sticking that tubing down in there for risk of melting and having potential debris travel down the hole.
How long did you let cool down before doing the service?
It is interesting to see the differences made by Jeep to the transmission oil pan during the JK period. I have a 2011 and my pan looks nothing like this one. I have 13 bolts and the pan is really hidden a few components held in place by 16MM bolts. I wanted to change the filter but gave up. Just pumped out the oil and replaced it.
2012 and up is different transmission and engine
Yes those bolts are a headache I’ve changed the filter twice never gets easier
I had a 2003 Dodge Durango that had the same pan design no drain plug. They had a aftermarket drain pan that had a drain plug installed in the design. Do they make that same pan for the newer FCA transmissions? All fleets not just Durango.
Question ? The torque invertor was not drain a tall so is this means having to do oil change 2 time like in one week to make the rest of the oil in torque invertor to be mixed with the first oil change and re-doing oil change again the second week for helping to making sure the oil change is done all over in the transmission itself including torque invertor ?
At 18:26 someone was pointing a red dot on you... great info in the vid.
Ha. That's the laser parking guide for my wife. :-)
A "smidge" huh? can't seem to find that measurement scale anywhere :) One thing I found that helps when dealing with any type of oil change is a Large cardboard box under the rig catches that bit of oil that refuses to drip in the catch pan. Also I have found that Simple Green is excellent for cleaning off the oil that gets on the parts you don't want it on like that exhaust piping. I don't understand why there is not a drain plug in the pan like the engine oil drain. Maybe you can tell me why. Decent vid not as in depth as some of your others and it makes me want to take it to a place like AAMCO because I don't want to go through all that laying on my garage floor. Thanks
Thanks so much for this! So, how much new ATF+4 total did it take after the pan drop and drain? Was it still
Measure what you take out and add a cup.
@@TheSchmed terrible answer,doesn't help when you buy oil in advance
Hi, I have some questions. Is this the same transmission that the 2011 Grand Cherokee uses? I really suppose so. Can you share the amazon link to buy the LUCAS fluid? I'm really not sure which one to order.
You could also try a wobble socket for those bolts spend a little save some headache 🤕 and a piece of cardboard underneath you next time
Where did you get your roll bar covers from? They look pretty nice!
They are Bartact... But they never put them into production. This was a test set.
Do you recommend a little bit of oil on the new gasket itself like we usually do with the engine oil filter gasket?
I’m looking at a 2003 4.0L with 74K miles, manual, that looks to be in great shape for $10,000, would like to not deal with the shortcomings of automatic transmissions. My mechanic told me inspect that undercarriage carefully, the TJs are known for rusty frames.
Manuals are different. There’s a drain plug rather than having to drop the entire pan. Use redline for your trans fluid trust me it’ll shift beyond smooth!
How is the replacement pan that has a drain plug ? I’m always afraid will be prone to leaking. The JLs do not have a dipstick, supposedly a “sealed” trans, but does have a drain plug. “Sealed” means sealed only up to warranty, then you’re on your own. No such thing as “lifetime” or “sealed” transmissions, change the fluid at least, whether you have a drain plug or at least “suck and replace” via the dipstick tube.
good video! equalize the high music volume down to match voice levels.
I changed my pad with new gasket and saw that it was leaking a lil.... what should I do? All it needed was the rubber gasket right? No silicone? Ect?
On mine, a 2015, you’re supposed to check the level in neutral.
Great video! Any idea what the torque spec is when replacing the pan bolts? Thx
105 in-lbs. It's not much. Converts to roughly 8.75 ft lbs
10:38 looking pretty serious there 😅
At what km's do you recommend before changing the oil out? I have 63 000 kms on my Wrangler JL
Not that familiar with auto transmission but should they not have a oil pressure line, unbolt it, start the engine and it will drain ?? Reason for no drain plug is you change the filter with every oil change so the pan has to come off anyway, messy without a plug but no issue with a big enough catchtank
.
JUST bought myself a '14 JKU. 130K miles. Owner stated he never changed trans fluid. Never did any harsh 4-wheelin. Towed a small camper a few times. I've read several posts about NOT changing fluid. That it could cause more damage than good. I'm just an over-achiever and really want to get this remedied. Any thoughts? Partial change, maybe? Thanks in advance and for all your content. (Subscribed !)
If you look at the service manual, the 60k Mile service is recommended for AT where the vehicle has been used for specific uses (which they outline). If you don’t fall into this category then the suggested maintenance interval is 10 years or 120k miles.