Hawks are easy to use. Also I start at the bottom and go vertical up to get it on. Once its stuck on the wall, its easy to float it. I've done a lot of walls and some ceilings too. Ceilings suck. But if you stay patient and have a system you can get it done. When it sets up some. I mist it and use a hard rubber float to rub the final. Looks better than a broom finish. But nothing is wrong with a broom finish. I broom all my exterior flat work. Strategic cardboard helps tremendously with clean up if the situation is called for.
Ya never done a ceiling. That’s gotta be a pain. This stuff is so super sticky. I remember parking block walls with mordar. Now that’s a pain. I have done the float too. 👍👍 Thanks
Thanks BB! You got a great crew and you share your knowledge in a way that we can all learn from and us "nail-benders" can relate to! If you ever built a pool, you should fill it with GRAVY so the BISCUITS can take a swim!!!😂
Ron 'Bondo' Bond, Thank you mucho for all the content you have uploaded, very informative and appreciated. Having fully fallen into the ICF rabbit hole, I have watched many of your vids, probably 100's of hours (at least)of ICF vids in the last year. I think the ICF system is fantastic and plan on building with it 2021(summer). That being said, I still have a couple concerns, rather large ones though, all revolving around water proofing/barrier/WRB shield, below grade/transition/above grade etc: 1. Water proofing below grade: Spay vs Liquid vs 'Peel-n-stick'. Information out there is very contradicting/confusing. Also a bit reserved about 'Peel-n-stick' solutions as I haven't stumbled upon any long-term studies for this ie. 'performance after 10 years, 20 yrs, 50 yrs. etc' 2. Water proofing above grade: same questions/concerns as below grade plus one- 'WRB' (Water Resistive Barrier, aka 'house wrap/tyvek' etc). This is another area that seems like the ICF professional community hasn't come to conclusion yet. Any light you could shed on this topic? 3. The ever dreaded ~8" 'Transition area', ie. from below grade to above grade cladding. I have yet to see a full/confident inspiring solution for this area. I have yet to see any below grade water proofing product that can withstand above grade UV exposure thus the need for the transition area covering. Some of the more common solutions I've seen for this are: 'Parging' ('synthetic' stucco), stucco ('real' stucco), cultured stone with out grout to prevent moisture wicking, metal flashing, concrete fiber board (which should NEVER be in contact to ground due to moisture wicking). 3.1-Is there anything better than these 'transition area' cladding solutions? One of my main concerns for these is the actual transition from underground water proofing membrane to the 'transition area' cladding. This always seems like the weak spot (aka. failure mechanism, water penetration route). We always see the final grade (rock/gravel/dirt/landscaping etc) right at the level/transition I'm referring to. Ultimately the above grade/transition area should dip a few inches below grade to protect the water proofing system from any UV exposure risks ie. poor final grade/material settling etc. Any thoughts/literature you can provide on this subject would be greatly appreciated. 4. Last/final concern: This stems from the somewhat 'catch-22' ('between a rock and hard place' if you prefer :) - Once we apply an actual 'Waterproof' membrane to the ICF system (or most any other system for that matter), the risk of ANY moisture into the system is ultimately compounded by the fact we just dramatically made it a lot more difficult for that moisture to get out of the ICF wall system. My concerns here are the fact that the interior of the system is not waterproofed (haven't seen one yet-nor any recommendations to do so) and once any moisture gets into the wall from the exterior, from what ever failure source, now basically has to 'dry out' through the interior wall. The interior moisture in this case scares me a bit and the fact that if it ever happens, this would not be an easy fix-could be a nightmare (ie. leak source is roof level, 2 level home, but water on the interior doesn't appear until 1st level floor area. Scary a bit if you ask me). Do you have any input/links/literature you can share on these subjects that might shed some light on them? Again, appreciate your insight and contributions so far (subscribed! :). Best to you and yours with the upcoming newyear (2021).
Hi there. Thanks for subscribing to the channel. 👍 I can give you my 2 cents on a few things. On waterproofing I have took my own experience digging up basements and drying them out to use. I dug up basements and spray foam then and do new drains and good drainage rock. This always works so now I spray foam the ICF with closed cell spray foam. We parge the area that you talk about that is exposed and that goes on to the spray foam. You could parge down a little below grade and then spray over the lip of that. Above grade I recommend a drainage plane over housewrap. That way any moisture can have a place to dry out to the exterior. Vent this drainage plane wire hole punched metal bent to keep insects out. Any water that gets into the basement below grade will have to dry to the interior so I would not water proof the inside. No water should get in with a good drain and stone drainage plane against the wall. Regards Bondo
@@bondobuilt386 Thanks for reply, i'm still amazed you reply as much as you do, it's appreciated. Drainage plane sounds like the route to go. Thanks again for all the real 'working man's' knowledge. Manufacturer Websites and Salesmen and brochures are great and all...but nothing beats 'boots on the ground' real experience. Thanks again Bondo, you da'man! Keep your biscuit hydrated!
You don’t need to put a corner be on the corner of the house like for instance if you’re gonna do 12 wall high, do you stock corners in there too or don’t need it??
Looks like EIFS basically. I usually have one guy doing the parging and then another guy follow behind imbedding the mesh. Also, unless I'm doing a wall and can stand, I work out of a bucket instead of using a hawk too. Good teamwork
I don't have an ICF but I have 2" rigid board insulation that I have Tapcon screwed and RamSet nailed onto my cement foundation. I am now going to parge. I was told to put a first coat of a polymer mortar plus the mesh. Is that what you are using? A polymer mortar? I was told to then use a parge mix as my second coat but I'm thinking I can put two coats of a polymer mortar. What are your thoughts? Enjoyed the video. I gave it a like and subscribed.
This is a ICF prep coat parge mix made to stick to the foam. Nudura sells this particular one we used. Other ICF manufacturers have there own version as well.
If you are concerned with subterranean termintes, the parge coat should overlap the waterproofing membrane coating by a few inches. In this video, there was very little overlap and in a few spots I saw bare foam. Those bare spots will be below grade and will provide a path for termites to enter the foam without having to expose themselves above ground. You want full coverage below grade to force the termites to build visible mud tunnels on the parge coat so that you know you have an infestation. What I saw done was the waterproofing went 6 inches above final grade and the parging went 6 inches below grade, creating an overlap of 1 foot. Even if you don't have the subterranean termites in your area, the overlap would be better waterproofing against water pudding at the grade level.✌️
Wow Ron! Pumping out the videos this week. I was going to ask about painting but then you said you washed it and then sealed it. What do you seal it with and do you let it as is or what. What is more durable, paint or the sealing? Great work as always.
Tom I think I was talking about the stamped concrete and the face of the porch will be washed and sealed. The parge coat will not need ant treatment. You could probably paint it with a good Masonary paint but a latex paint probably would fail. I think if someone wanted it another color I would put powder color in it as it was mixed up.
Hi Guys. What is the yellow sealant near the bottom? We just had a concrete guy do the footings, 9' approx high ICF. I asked him to do 'all things concrete' and assumed it would be a turnkey thing, allowing me to proceed with the floor joists. Now I'm looking at a 9' high white wall, apparently parging was not specified, so that's on me. Do you backfill to a certain height and then parge, or parge the whole 9' wall, then backfill? Costwise, and labor, it will make a huge difference. Just not sure what the yellow adhesive is, is that something you put on for the area covered by Fill? Thanks.
Ok, read through Ifishmo's comments (thank you). So there is an above, and underground waterproofing barrier application. Parging above grade, and WRB below grade. I feel confident I can do the above grade parging, will look into various below grade WRB's. Thanks. Any recommendations are appreciated, and Thanks so much for this video, it was easy to follow and funny, great team, great job.
We had this foundation spray foamed below grade with closed cell spray foam to water proof it. You can also use a rubber stick on membrane made for ICF below grade. Then large above grade areas.
@@bondobuilt386 Thank you very much. I'm going to assume the spray foam is more effective at actually sealing as getting that wrap tight looks cumbersome
Hey Bondo! Quick question for you. I am getting ready to start my ICF walkout basement and will be using a peel and stick membrane. Would you use parging to cover the space between grade and the bottom of the siding? I want the membrane above grade a bit but don’t want it exposed. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Rob yes parge it with the ICF parge. Run the mesh over the membrane where you go above grage and parge over everything to just below grade. The ICF parge is reral sticky. Do 2 coats at least.
I have been a full time plasterer now for 40 years. And what I see here is what gives the stucco industry a bad name. ….I repair jobs like this all the time.... absolutely terrible workmanship
bondo built..... I see on my notifications you called me a diddler in my area that is a pedophile ??? all because I called you out on your workmanship or lack of it ... at least it shows your viewers you never went to trade school and I question if you ever finished high school. As for me having a RUclips channel I don't have the time.... lucky you . I want to tell you how I found your channel my guys were passing a phone around at coffee time with your video and laughing they where asking me how do people like this get payed for work like this. it really pisses me off knowing you don't see this. we are working on a house right now that was stuccoed 6 years ago and the rot that has occurred from bad workmanship is horrible under every window rotted 2x6 and floors and bottom plates all because of hacks who think they know what they are doing, The home owners are on the hook for this. The most important thing to me is my customers and builders. After 40 years in this trade I am still learning all the time.. new products, changes to building codes, the list goes on. why don't you put the camera away until you know what you are doing or maybe your one of those guys that doesn't care as long as you get payed before the job starts to deteriorate and guys like me who take pride in there work have to follow behind you and repair. WE STAND TALL AND PROUD you should too but not with that kind of workmanship to what we see you need to step it up and stop calling people names .SORRY IF YOU HAVE BEEN OFENDED
dude you are stuccoing houses and I am parging a basement not even the same thing. I am below the siding and windows. This is the way you parge an ICF basement. Move on and I won't delete your from my channel. All your rambling on and on and you have not said what I Done wrong or how I should have done it. So that makes me think yon are talking out your as#. Find another channel to heckle troll. Keyboard Diddler. 🖕
Hawks are easy to use. Also I start at the bottom and go vertical up to get it on. Once its stuck on the wall, its easy to float it. I've done a lot of walls and some ceilings too. Ceilings suck. But if you stay patient and have a system you can get it done.
When it sets up some. I mist it and use a hard rubber float to rub the final. Looks better than a broom finish. But nothing is wrong with a broom finish. I broom all my exterior flat work.
Strategic cardboard helps tremendously with clean up if the situation is called for.
Ya never done a ceiling. That’s gotta be a pain. This stuff is so super sticky. I remember parking block walls with mordar. Now that’s a pain. I have done the float too. 👍👍
Thanks
Glad you are going to stamp the edges of the porch
Thanks for the great video.
Glad you liked it Christian 👍😊
Thanks BB! You got a great crew and you share your knowledge in a way that we can all learn from and us "nail-benders" can relate to!
If you ever built a pool, you should fill it with GRAVY so the BISCUITS can take a swim!!!😂
Dude I’m holding my gut laughing right now. Lmao 😂 😂😂😂😂
Thanks for the laugh. We just finished a floor at 8:00 pm and having a beer. 🍺🍺
@@bondobuilt386 My wife said.. Put some pepper in it. Got to have pepper with tha biscuits and gravy!
@@bondobuilt386 I usually gain keyboard skills after happy hour!
📐📏🔨🍻
Ron 'Bondo' Bond, Thank you mucho for all the content you have uploaded, very informative and appreciated.
Having fully fallen into the ICF rabbit hole, I have watched many of your vids, probably 100's of hours (at least)of ICF vids in the last year.
I think the ICF system is fantastic and plan on building with it 2021(summer).
That being said, I still have a couple concerns, rather large ones though, all revolving around water proofing/barrier/WRB shield, below grade/transition/above grade etc:
1. Water proofing below grade: Spay vs Liquid vs 'Peel-n-stick'. Information out there is very contradicting/confusing. Also a bit reserved about 'Peel-n-stick' solutions as I haven't stumbled upon any long-term studies for this ie. 'performance after 10 years, 20 yrs, 50 yrs. etc'
2. Water proofing above grade: same questions/concerns as below grade plus one- 'WRB' (Water Resistive Barrier, aka 'house wrap/tyvek' etc). This is another area that seems like the ICF professional community hasn't come to conclusion yet. Any light you could shed on this topic?
3. The ever dreaded ~8" 'Transition area', ie. from below grade to above grade cladding. I have yet to see a full/confident inspiring solution for this area. I have yet to see any below grade water proofing product that can withstand above grade UV exposure thus the need for the transition area covering. Some of the more common solutions I've seen for this are: 'Parging' ('synthetic' stucco), stucco ('real' stucco), cultured stone with out grout to prevent moisture wicking, metal flashing, concrete fiber board (which should NEVER be in contact to ground due to moisture wicking).
3.1-Is there anything better than these 'transition area' cladding solutions? One of my main concerns for these is the actual transition from underground water proofing membrane to the 'transition area' cladding. This always seems like the weak spot (aka. failure mechanism, water penetration route). We always see the final grade (rock/gravel/dirt/landscaping etc) right at the level/transition I'm referring to. Ultimately the above grade/transition area should dip a few inches below grade to protect the water proofing system from any UV exposure risks ie. poor final grade/material settling etc. Any thoughts/literature you can provide on this subject would be greatly appreciated.
4. Last/final concern: This stems from the somewhat 'catch-22' ('between a rock and hard place' if you prefer :) - Once we apply an actual 'Waterproof' membrane to the ICF system (or most any other system for that matter), the risk of ANY moisture into the system is ultimately compounded by the fact we just dramatically made it a lot more difficult for that moisture to get out of the ICF wall system. My concerns here are the fact that the interior of the system is not waterproofed (haven't seen one yet-nor any recommendations to do so) and once any moisture gets into the wall from the exterior, from what ever failure source, now basically has to 'dry out' through the interior wall. The interior moisture in this case scares me a bit and the fact that if it ever happens, this would not be an easy fix-could be a nightmare (ie. leak source is roof level, 2 level home, but water on the interior doesn't appear until 1st level floor area. Scary a bit if you ask me).
Do you have any input/links/literature you can share on these subjects that might shed some light on them?
Again, appreciate your insight and contributions so far (subscribed! :).
Best to you and yours with the upcoming newyear (2021).
Hi there. Thanks for subscribing to the channel. 👍
I can give you my 2 cents on a few things. On waterproofing I have took my own experience digging up basements and drying them out to use. I dug up basements and spray foam then and do new drains and good drainage rock. This always works so now I spray foam the ICF with closed cell spray foam.
We parge the area that you talk about that is exposed and that goes on to the spray foam. You could parge down a little below grade and then spray over the lip of that. Above grade I recommend a drainage plane over housewrap. That way any moisture can have a place to dry out to the exterior. Vent this drainage plane wire hole punched metal bent to keep insects out.
Any water that gets into the basement below grade will have to dry to the interior so I would not water proof the inside. No water should get in with a good drain and stone drainage plane against the wall.
Regards
Bondo
@@bondobuilt386 Thanks for reply, i'm still amazed you reply as much as you do, it's appreciated. Drainage plane sounds like the route to go. Thanks again for all the real 'working man's' knowledge. Manufacturer Websites and Salesmen and brochures are great and all...but nothing beats 'boots on the ground' real experience.
Thanks again Bondo, you da'man! Keep your biscuit hydrated!
Thanks buddy. I try to keep up with the messages on here. Im glad the Chanel is helpfull to you. I'll hydrate that biscuit. lol
Would you use the same scratch coat process to attach veneer stone?
You don’t need to put a corner be on the corner of the house like for instance if you’re gonna do 12 wall high, do you stock corners in there too or don’t need it??
Great video. Have you guys used the self-adhesive mesh?
Perfect. Everything I need to know in 1 place. Thanks.
Awesome Tim. Glad to help. 👍😊
So you use no mechanical fastening system between the rigid insulation and the parking?
No just the mesh
Looks like EIFS basically. I usually have one guy doing the parging and then another guy follow behind imbedding the mesh. Also, unless I'm doing a wall and can stand, I work out of a bucket instead of using a hawk too. Good teamwork
Ya I haven’t mastered the hawk yet. Lol
How did you mix the parge coat. Bucket and mixer or in the wheel barrow?
Wheel barrow
I don’t need to use tar paper when parging onto foam Nadura ICF walls??
I don't have an ICF but I have 2" rigid board insulation that I have Tapcon screwed and RamSet nailed onto my cement foundation. I am now going to parge. I was told to put a first coat of a polymer mortar plus the mesh. Is that what you are using? A polymer mortar? I was told to then use a parge mix as my second coat but I'm thinking I can put two coats of a polymer mortar. What are your thoughts? Enjoyed the video. I gave it a like and subscribed.
Is there a bonding agent needed ????
Is it the same for a pool parge ????
What’s the Orange line at the bottom of the blocks, is it a Damp proof layer?
I believe it's closed cell foam. In his other videos, he says he will spray the ICF walls below grade with 0.75" closed cell foam.
@@christianborgwar666 Yes It is closed cell foam. Thanks 👍
What mixture are you using. Thanks
This is a ICF prep coat parge mix made to stick to the foam. Nudura sells this particular one we used. Other ICF manufacturers have there own version as well.
will this stop termites?
I am not sure we do not have them where i live and build.
What happened to mine, I did mine smooth and it dried different shades of gray and white is there a way to make it consistent colour
What are the names of the mortar and mesh please?
If you are concerned with subterranean termintes, the parge coat should overlap the waterproofing membrane coating by a few inches. In this video, there was very little overlap and in a few spots I saw bare foam. Those bare spots will be below grade and will provide a path for termites to enter the foam without having to expose themselves above ground. You want full coverage below grade to force the termites to build visible mud tunnels on the parge coat so that you know you have an infestation. What I saw done was the waterproofing went 6 inches above final grade and the parging went 6 inches below grade, creating an overlap of 1 foot. Even if you don't have the subterranean termites in your area, the overlap would be better waterproofing against water pudding at the grade level.✌️
Can you put integral color in your mix?
Hi. Yes you sure can. 👍
What are you gonna do with the top edge underneath the concrete slab where it’s unfinished?
ruclips.net/video/ycAflF__XPo/видео.html
Wow Ron! Pumping out the videos this week. I was going to ask about painting but then you said you washed it and then sealed it. What do you seal it with and do you let it as is or what. What is more durable, paint or the sealing? Great work as always.
Tom I think I was talking about the stamped concrete and the face of the porch will be washed and sealed. The parge coat will not need ant treatment. You could probably paint it with a good Masonary paint but a latex paint probably would fail. I think if someone wanted it another color I would put powder color in it as it was mixed up.
i guess it is pretty off topic but do anyone know a good website to watch new tv shows online ?
Hi Guys. What is the yellow sealant near the bottom? We just had a concrete guy do the footings, 9' approx high ICF. I asked him to do 'all things concrete' and assumed it would be a turnkey thing, allowing me to proceed with the floor joists. Now I'm looking at a 9' high white wall, apparently parging was not specified, so that's on me. Do you backfill to a certain height and then parge, or parge the whole 9' wall, then backfill? Costwise, and labor, it will make a huge difference. Just not sure what the yellow adhesive is, is that something you put on for the area covered by Fill? Thanks.
Ok, read through Ifishmo's comments (thank you). So there is an above, and underground waterproofing barrier application. Parging above grade, and WRB below grade. I feel confident I can do the above grade parging, will look into various below grade WRB's. Thanks. Any recommendations are appreciated, and Thanks so much for this video, it was easy to follow and funny, great team, great job.
We had this foundation spray foamed below grade with closed cell spray foam to water proof it. You can also use a rubber stick on membrane made for ICF below grade. Then large above grade areas.
@@bondobuilt386 Thank you very much. I'm going to assume the spray foam is more effective at actually sealing as getting that wrap tight looks cumbersome
What did you use below grade ?
We had it spray foamed with closed cell foam. This was our damproofing solution. 👍👍
Looks great! After the parge dries, can it be painted?
We will wash it and seal it.
Do you do this on the whole wall for water proofing or to just give it a finished look
Just above grade to protect the foam Bruce. 👍
Is this also waterproofing the ICF ?
This damp proofs the above grade ICF walls.
Hey Ron, Just an idea;
You could use the same product to make a chiseled stone edge on your deck pad! I play with decorative concrete with a passion!
RedNewDeal I stamped it with cantera vertical wall mix. Came out sweet.
ruclips.net/video/ycAflF__XPo/видео.html
Send pics
x_paratrooper@yahoo.com
Why is there a gap between the top of the ICF and the concrete porch slab?
That’s how ref carpenter formed the slab. There is Q decking over a root cellar.
@@bondobuilt386 I thought you were the plasterer don't you fix and prep the parging before you start your top coat that is your job
@@carbonator0808 You don't like the material move on keyboard diddler.
Hey Bondo!
Quick question for you. I am getting ready to start my ICF walkout basement and will be using a peel and stick membrane. Would you use parging to cover the space between grade and the bottom of the siding? I want the membrane above grade a bit but don’t want it exposed.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
Rob yes parge it with the ICF parge. Run the mesh over the membrane where you go above grage and parge over everything to just below grade. The ICF parge is reral sticky. Do 2 coats at least.
Thanks
I have been a full time plasterer now for 40 years. And what I see here is what gives the stucco industry a bad name. ….I repair jobs like this all the time.... absolutely terrible workmanship
Well Thats good. This is foundation coat not stucco.
@@bondobuilt386 wow..... Somebody didn't go to trade school
@@carbonator0808 Yes I did but I do way more then just plaster walls off a hawk all day long. LOL
@@bondobuilt386 I am a general contractor
@@carbonator0808 I'm proud of you Mr. Meogie. LOL
who farted at 2:43...lol
Dude, that edge looks horrible and you can see the nubs on the top course of ICF. I enjoy your videos, but I'm shocked at this one brother
bondo built..... I see on my notifications you called me a diddler in my area that is a pedophile ??? all because I called you out on your workmanship or lack of it ... at least it shows your viewers you never went to trade school and I question if you ever finished high school. As for me having a RUclips channel I don't have the time.... lucky you . I want to tell you how I found your channel my guys were passing a phone around at coffee time with your video and laughing they where asking me how do people like this get payed for work like this. it really pisses me off knowing you don't see this. we are working on a house right now that was stuccoed 6 years ago and the rot that has occurred from bad workmanship is horrible under every window rotted 2x6 and floors and bottom plates all because of hacks who think they know what they are doing, The home owners are on the hook for this. The most important thing to me is my customers and builders. After 40 years in this trade I am still learning all the time.. new products, changes to building codes, the list goes on. why don't you put the camera away until you know what you are doing or maybe your one of those guys that doesn't care as long as you get payed before the job starts to deteriorate and guys like me who take pride in there work have to follow behind you and repair. WE STAND TALL AND PROUD you should too but not with that kind of workmanship to what we see you need to step it up and stop calling people names .SORRY IF YOU HAVE BEEN OFENDED
dude you are stuccoing houses and I am parging a basement not even the same thing. I am below the siding and windows. This is the way you parge an ICF basement. Move on and I won't delete your from my channel. All your rambling on and on and you have not said what I Done wrong or how I should have done it. So that makes me think yon are talking out your as#. Find another channel to heckle troll. Keyboard Diddler. 🖕