A suggestion, create a permanent exhaust through your wall so you don't have the exhaust in the workshop. You could paint the pipe black to get a thermal reading from it.
There is one for the heater that is installed on the wall. But for bench tests I just put the extractor fan on. It takes a long, long time before it sets off the CO alarm.
Hello David, hope you are doing well, thank you for carrying out the test on the TB2, I just ordered one, I hope you don’t mind asking me for help about an 8 KW Vevor heater, Input 13,6 Voltage, at the connector from the diesel pump I get 4,6 Voltage. Heater has only been running maybe 10 hours in total last winter, connections are all OK, after start fan starts to run after some minutes error E07, diesel pump not running at all, I was thinking to replace the mother board. If I put the pump directly on 12V it starts to click immediately. An important question about the input voltage, also regarding the new TB2, is 13,6V not to high? Should I put a DC to DC converter so I have exact 12 V. Thanks a lot if you can find the time to answer my questions, regards Hans.
I'd replace the pump first. As the pump is pulse fed a multimeter usually doesn't see it as 12V. They should be fine up to 15V, a running car alternator will put out 14.4V.
Hi David, thank you for carrying out the test on the TB2. Just looking at your approximate final heater output, I believe you said it was 6.5 KW, that approximate figure is more or less the same as you achieved on the bigger Hcalory 6-8.5 KW heater. Any ideas how that can be achieved when the heat exchanger are different sizes, or am I missing something here?
It's probably closer to 5kw. I'll need to re-run the test and take new air flow readings with the duct in place. Another RUclipsr noted that this heater has more and larger fins on the inside than a previous Hcalory heater so that might be helping as well.
It will be interesting to actually see how much difference (if any at all!) there is between a midrange heater, heat exchanger. I wonder if that’s what their advert is referring too when it says longer? I know explanations can easily get lost in translation so it may be just a wrong word being used.
Great video as always, you are the RUclips guru of diesel heaters. I'd like to know what the wiring issue is. What changes are needed to make this more serviceable?
I'm going to say that adding the duct probably reduced the air flow a little, so it's going to be a bit less output than measured. But it's still a pretty good output.
Nice to see you back
A suggestion, create a permanent exhaust through your wall so you don't have the exhaust in the workshop. You could paint the pipe black to get a thermal reading from it.
There is one for the heater that is installed on the wall. But for bench tests I just put the extractor fan on. It takes a long, long time before it sets off the CO alarm.
Hi David watching from Canada love your videos hope you doing well
HELLO whats up David hope your doing good Bro ! I Love the smell of Diesel in the Morning lmaorotf
Hi David. Great to hear from you and your ever enthusiastic comments, hope your health is improving. Cheers.
Jim.
Hello David, hope you are doing well, thank you for carrying out the test on the TB2, I just ordered one, I hope you don’t mind asking me for help about an 8 KW Vevor heater, Input 13,6 Voltage, at the connector from the diesel pump I get 4,6 Voltage. Heater has only been running maybe 10 hours in total last winter, connections are all OK, after start fan starts to run after some minutes error E07, diesel pump not running at all, I was thinking to replace the mother board. If I put the pump directly on 12V it starts to click immediately. An important question about the input voltage, also regarding the new TB2, is 13,6V not to high? Should I put a DC to DC converter so I have exact 12 V. Thanks a lot if you can find the time to answer my questions, regards Hans.
I'd replace the pump first. As the pump is pulse fed a multimeter usually doesn't see it as 12V. They should be fine up to 15V, a running car alternator will put out 14.4V.
@@DavidMcLuckie Thank you very much for your help!
How can it be so cold in your shop with all those diesel heaters you've taken apart and put back together? 😎
Hi David, thank you for carrying out the test on the TB2. Just looking at your approximate final heater output, I believe you said it was 6.5 KW, that approximate figure is more or less the same as you achieved on the bigger Hcalory 6-8.5 KW heater. Any ideas how that can be achieved when the heat exchanger are different sizes, or am I missing something here?
It's probably closer to 5kw. I'll need to re-run the test and take new air flow readings with the duct in place. Another RUclipsr noted that this heater has more and larger fins on the inside than a previous Hcalory heater so that might be helping as well.
It will be interesting to actually see how much difference (if any at all!) there is between a midrange heater, heat exchanger. I wonder if that’s what their advert is referring too when it says longer? I know explanations can easily get lost in translation so it may be just a wrong word being used.
Would a test box with a known volume, and a closed loop for air in an out, give you an easier way to do this kind of test?
Maybe. I think it would need to be quite a large box and well insulated.
Great video as always, you are the RUclips guru of diesel heaters.
I'd like to know what the wiring issue is. What changes are needed to make this more serviceable?
The wiring just need replaced with either a heavier gauge, or actual copper. I'm guessing it's coated aluminium wire in there.
Well, does seem to put out its' claimed output, which seems surprising in this day and age where quoted specs are not always the actual results... :)
I'm going to say that adding the duct probably reduced the air flow a little, so it's going to be a bit less output than measured. But it's still a pretty good output.
Kroak? 🤣🤣🤣🤣CO marketing fail. Hope it comes with a free detector.