Main legal issue with the unit isn’t the heater itself ( which I think is great ) , but the UK power supply it comes with. it ships with a unfused UK plug that falls foul of BS1363. Which is easily fixed by cutting it off and putting on a fuse UK plug. It won’t be an issue for the European or North American options. Genuine question, unless I’ve made a mistake is there anyway that power supply be legal in the UK without a fused UK socket? Having read the regulations, I can’t see how it’s legal.
Also despite the unit power supply possibly being class two double insulated the earth pin should be conductor. Secondly the size of the moulding does not provide the required physical separation from the live and neutral.
@@WOFFY-qc9te the next video I take it apart to have a look inside one of the points I actually brought up is that it got a metal earth pin on the plug but doesn’t lead to anything. Whilst it is stamped with the double insulated logo and the cable is double insulated I thought that eliminated the requirement for it to have an earth pin.
@@MispronouncedAdventures No fuse ?, even if the power supply had an internal fuse the cable itself does not and potentially have in excess of 32 Amp nominal AC available, in real terms the peak fault current is far in excess of this and is controlled by the appropriate circuit breaker conforming to IEEE 18th Edition wiring regulations. The Earth pin is not required for double insulated appliances however 1363 says that it should be entirely made of conductive material. The Earth pin also conducts any heat away from the plug allowing it to meet the expected power rating. I do not recommend the power supply being in the case whilst in operation just in case any one thought that may be a good thing. Great video I enjoyed whilst my heater burns through the kerosene. Best
@WOFFY-qc9te yes as in no fuse in the power supplies plug which is why it’s not compliant, in the next video I cut it off and add a fused plug. The power supply plugs in the heater box externally so it would be quite difficult to actually put the power supply inside the case
@@MispronouncedAdventures The earth pin on the plug is sheathed which is another fail on top of the fuse. It can have a plastic earth pin if it is class 2 but if it was for a computer that type of power supply would have a functional earth for shielding.
Yeah I only learnt that after I finished filming the second of these heaters! I originally looked on the inside assuming it would be a metal pin in the plastic but didn’t see anything so just continued. I didn’t realise it large external plastic ones!
Well, not sure about everyone else, but the comedy of errors after dropping that screw inside the case is the content I'm looking for 😂😂😂😂 Joking aside, a bit of a cliff hanger there, Alex. Not good for my anxiety levels. Just hurry up and release the next one, please 🙏
Hi Alex, again great review. I disagree with you that the CDH are chipping the fan to balance them. Balancing requires a precise amount of material removal. As far as plastic parts go, the fan is a precision molded piece, and probably comes out of the mold well balanced. I think they are just breaking a lot of the fans in the assembly process.
Originally, I thought that. But with European made autoterms I’ve seen have multiple circular nips removed on there fans , with the Chinese ones I’ve seen broken chips removed but I’ve also seen tool cut chunks removed as well. As I also from times time work directly with companies I did actually query this two years ago with the company on the broken chunks removed bringing up quality issues they mentioned it was balancing
🇬🇧 👍🏽 December 2024 Bluddy awesome video buddy!! Thank you for taking the time & clearly inordinate trouble to make this! It kept on segue'ing into better & better tangents! I even watched the ad all the way through, as it was also inventively done (biking around in Scotland).
Thank you very much. I love putting apart these heaters and seeing what’s new but also teaching people about them. Thank you very much for saying you watched the ad section as well through. I know people don’t like them but the reality is it funds a lot of what the channel does.
Interesting video Alex. Nicely presented and informative. Be taking a look at one myself. I did look at the original design, this is nicely thought out.
Interesting video as usual. My one is the previous version which also has a barometric sensor which allows the use of plateau mode which supposedly adjusts the fuel for high altitude use. It does display the pressure altitude on the controller and seems to be pretty accurate where I live. Looking forward to the 2nd video.
Yes definitely the previous version also has an altitude sensor. Just did it on the main board opposed to an expansion board. Both versions display the altitude which is reasonably accurate. Although with this version I kept finding high altitude/plateau mode turning on by default.
@@MispronouncedAdventures I'm currently working on a _home_ made control(ler) circuit using a 555 timer for the pump and the speed variation of the fan motor. Still wondering if one can use a linear heat sensitive resistor (thermistor?) to vary the PWM patternn(potentially build more than one 555 circuit). Need to think about safety cut-off design still.
Hi, I think Ian Marcy tried running one based on Adriano in his video’s, may be worth you watching. He als tried the afterburner control module. Take care and keep playing / investigating. Interesting on the fins in the burn chamber for heat transfer. Might be worth doing a back to back with the same controller to see if that is the difference. Interesting to see what is in a webasto etc. Take care M.
Great video, as usual 👌🏼 on question for the Arctic expert. When installing multiple fixed diesel heaters in your van. Do you need to use extra fuel pickup lines or can you just use a T-piece ? Heater 1: A-term 2kw Heater 2: A-tern 2kw Heater 3: thermtop C (hydronic)
My model of van has an auxiliary fuel port in the sender unit so only 1 sender and then I use Y connectors. I personally use a Y over a T connector as it’s more favourable for flow.
@MispronouncedAdventures it's the reason many of these exhaust thru the base. Just because you wouldn't do it does not mean it doesn't happen everyday.
"pump not mounted at an angle" I hear that a lot but the Webasto's manual requires horizontal mounting for Diesel air heaters and only for Petrol versions it says "preferably 15-90°"
Different companies recommend different things and use different pumps. Autoterm’s manual recommends a slight angle on their diesel versions. Espar (which Chinese companies are based on) recommends an ideal angle of 15-35 degrees and 35-90 degrees as okay on their diesel versions in their manual. Both of those recommend it cannot be horizontal or less than 15 degrees. As the cavitation bubbles caused by each dosing stroke can get stuck inside the pump. Although in this case, the specific heater I’m reviewing actually mentions on their website marketing that it is at an angle.
Would you comment on spares needed for continued operation in the long term and their availability.I.E. seals, additional glow plug , ECU , display. Thanks!
My man. How can you possibly argue this is any different from the all in one diesel heaters that have the fittings coming out of the bottom and "might leak harmful gas". It is literally the same heater, but has a solid elbow before the flexible fitting.
I don’t think you understand what I was getting across , it’s the form factor of the those all in one heaters, not the heater itself. The “all in one” portable heaters which I show at the beginning and reference often look like and are shown as a solution for a permanent installation in a vehicle . when they’re 100% not. Their metal frame has bolt holes to be fastened down to a floor and it looks like a flexible exhaust could be added and run through the floor, and the companies often use marketing photos of showing them in vehicles. ( which I show in the video ) Someone who’s not familiar with the heaters style could think that that’s a perfectly acceptable way of mounting those type Inside a a vehicle. Portable all on one toolbox style heaters just don’t have that sort of form factor. It wouldn’t make any sense to mount it like that in a vehicle, and very difficult to do so given the configuration of the heater. Portable heaters like this should be mounted outside of a vehicle, tent or a space and pump hot air in. I do actually make more of a point of this in the first video and explain how people who have done it can rectify it. I only briefly mentioned it in this intro so it wasn’t going over already talked about area.
TLDR Normal type all in one heaters look like that could be mounted inside a vehicle, which is unsafe All in one toolbox heater don’t look like they could be mounted inside a vehicle, because they would be a horribly awkward configuration to do so
@@user-st5rc9nz4j They won't overheat or get damaged, but if switched off abruptly multiple times, it will get covered in soot and will need stripping down and cleaning.
I got the same heater. I'm surprised you didn't say anything about what a pain it is to take apart. It isn't easy to take apart the box and get the heater out. I think the design of the box is really poor. Did you notice, they leave one screw out of the rear panel because it isn't accessible with the heater in place. I found two things installed incorrectly on mine. They definitely have a quality problem. The other issue with the box is all the little plastic wells around the fuel filler. If you spill any diesel when refilling, they catch the diesel and it is hard to clean them out. heater and controller seems OK, I think the fix is to get a harbor freight pelican case copy and transfer the internals to a new box.
I wasn’t too bothered about the box itself, I thought for the price it was actually rather good. but then I’m gonna have dismantled the other ones, i found the first on difficult. But this time I knew how disassembly it. I did notice the missing screw on the heater.
@@MispronouncedAdventures I managed to replace that screw and flex the case enough to get the heater back in. when putting in the screws for the cover I found I was 1 screw short, and that's when I figured it out that that screw wasn't originally installed when they assembled the box. I found that my heater was glued shut like yours. The exhaust pipe is impressively thick and the controller is nice and bright. They are definitely improving the technology over the standard CDH .
I was genuinely expecting the Burn chamber to be longer when you showed it had a 90mm outlet, like that seen in the Hcalory 6-8.5KW, David Mcluckie did a review on them about a year ago, i was looking to buy a bare unit Hcalory one recently to go in place of the 5kw suitcase model I bought for my old mans garage last year, unfortunately they seem to be out of stock, I was hoping going the Kroak route might of been a way forward but I don’t think I’ll bother.
I was also expecting a longer burn chamber as it says there is one. whilst It didn’t have the longer body, the other claim was 50-100C lower exhaust temperature which is did have. toolbox 2 also has a way lower max HZ than TB1 but there are a few other differences between TB1 & TB2. I did chat to David McLuckie the other week as we were both reviewing TB2.
@ I wonder how there managing the claims, I’ve just been and looked at David’s channel and found he’s reviewed also (both informative as always), I bought a Hcalory 5kw after watching his channel last year with a view to upgrading the 5kw to an 8kw for the garage unit and using the 5kw body for my van, unfortunately they seem to be out of stock everywhere
Side by side of the heater in Toolbox 1 vs Toolbox 2. The burn chamber in Toolbox 2 has a lot more fins, so a higher surface area for heat transfer. So make sense lower exhaust temperature
When you say thermostats, do you mean the different controllers? The next video I compare it to generation 1 and talk about a few differences. Version two has different app, ventilation mode. No fuel gauge option, and quite a few other things
The major drawbacks are simply due to lack of proper mechanical and venting installations + lack of learned mechanical skill..... these things are ingenious for 150$. And are very clean burning....the controllers do have quite the learning curve.
Install and usage the main issue with the all in one types. no issues with all in one when used externally, for internal in a vehicle it’s should us a turret mount. The amount of controllers types can definitely be learning curve
Out of curiosity are the air fitlers actually air filters or are they just a resonator? As I always thought they were just there to quiten the intake heater down
Depends on the model. I have seen some where the inside is empty or just straight tube, whilst others have been a type of sponge acting as a basic filter
@@MispronouncedAdventures I've got a HCalory and a second hand Webasto Top V on the way so I'm definitely gonna have a look at what they come with. Your videos combined with the frozen windscreen of my van has convinced me they'll make my life a lot easier on these cold British mornings 😂
I couldn't tell by the video but does the case provide enough space to change the way the exhaust exits the case? Either to one side or out the other end?
It’s going to be only one side for the exit. the air intake, fuel line and heater mount would be in the way. The case has the exhaust output at the opposite of the heating air inside so it can suck it in
You make a good point about extra risk from leaks with more connections, however the Heater like this shouldn’t be inside in the first place. so leaking from the condensation hole on a muffler isn’t to much of an issue as the heater should be outside in the first place. There is already the risk of exhaust leak leaks from the main connection to the heater. Which I guess Is one reasons the heater box is actually so well ventilated.
Yes we have fuses boxes” which have MCB’s and RCD’s in them, but part of regs ( BS1363 ) is all UK plugs ( individual appliances) need to be fused via the plug as well. one of the reasons being normally in homes we use Ring circuits for domestic wiring which generally carry higher loads the radical circuits use in the EU. So ours “fuse boxes” will have high rated breakers / MCB’s like 32A. those are to protect the circuit, each plug is fused to a max of 13A ( or less) because of this to protect the appliance wiring.
What’s your reason for wanting to have a toolbox form factor inside your van? why not just mount the diesel heater component of it with a turret mount inside? It would be a lot smaller
Actually did not receive the true full TB2 heater. It is actually supposed to be about an inch or so longer than standard. Notice on the marketing pics you showed mention LONGER. That is supposed to be one of the improvements. Air passes over longer exterior to absorb heat instead of exhaust. They even put a longer neck on the case. But with std length you just get empty space. I ordered several diff places and always got std version. Guessing they ran out or into problems with longer one. But there are some videos that showed it.
Yes, many people do. Not something I’ve done myself but I know others who have, it’s meant to be cleaner. Potentially heard the only long-term issue is you can apparently damage pumps because it’s not lubricant unlike diesel although I think that is a long-term potential problem.
Why fuse the plug if all the sockets are already fused? Compare with Schuko sockets and plugs: There is only a fuse in the main fuse box. So I wouldn't panic...
Panic isn’t the point, it’s not compliant in the UK law. individual sockets are not fused in the UK, our plugs are fused for each appliance. as domestic wiring normally use a ring circuits are normally protected by a larger 32A MCB ( miniature circuit breaker, technically not a fuse ) so lower ( 3A, 5A, 13A ) fused plugs are used for each appliance European domestic wiring normally use radial circuits more, small 16A MCB’s ( or fuses at the consumer unit / main fuse box ), less outlets and overall carry less load overall per circuit.
@timstradling7764 I take it apart and show it to camera in the next video. The cable is double insulated. unless, my understanding of the double insulated is wrong. The cable has two cores, live and neutral ( brown and blue ) individually sheathed and then the black outer sheathed.
I don't understand why these heaters that are Bluetooth enabled just don't use the GPS on the phone to calculate the elevation/altitude. Of course, then there wouldn't be the altitude compensation if the phone was not connected but then why spend the extra money for Bluetooth compatibility.
I’d guess a Bluetooth module is more expensive than a barometric sensor for manufacturing. Additionally, that would require constant phone connection for accurate data
@@MispronouncedAdventures I just bought a heater with bluetooth. I plan on using the phone for all controls except for initial setup. As far as the heater using the phones GPS, if the software of the heater was written correctly, it could get it's altitude from the phone and remember the altitude for when the phone is not connected. If you are camping somewhere and using the heater, the heater's altitude isn't going to change once you set up camp and if you move, you would shut down the heater and start it up at the new location with your phone and it could get it's new altitude. Unfortunately, the Chinese don't write good software, they only copy things.
That’s a very fair point. I just went and checked. I looked for metal pins on the inside to push out and didn’t see them so I moved on and left it. I didn’t realise they were large plastic pins on the exterior until you’ve just made me re look.
@MispronouncedAdventures lol, I know, I just thought it might be worth pointing it out quickly. Tbh I was torn thinking about it. I hope I didn't offend, it was not my intention.
Thank you, a very well made video, looking forward to watching part two. Yes, you need to change the 240v plug and use a 20 amp fuse. The sunster t10 can now support a remote carbon monoxide detector/controller which you can hang up in your vehicle. ruclips.net/video/2BNLcSvWyGU/видео.htmlsi=uCFVLuHu9CNYJFsz
The next video I take apart the charger and replaced the plug to make it compliant, I also put a three amp fuse in the plug opposed to a 13 amp. It’s good to seeing that some of these companies are starting to use CO detectors for an added safety feature in controllers
@@CombatDoc54 sounds about right for US prices, as NA price is generally are a bit cheaper than UK and EU . Looking online at US prices I can see around $199
Honestly we burn gas in our homes every day for cooking. You can definitely use the diesel heaters in your house without needing to put the exhaust outside. Plus you get more heat that way
Yup - but methane only produces water & CO2, & you'd struggle to get an incomplete burn on an open gas hob, which is the only time a gas hob could create dangerous gasses (CO). Burning diesel however - even a complete burn without CO produced - will still produce tonnes of toxic gasses & particulates! There's no safe way to have it fully indoors - unless you're talking a warehouse with tonnes of ventilation, or open roller shutters both ends or something.
Main legal issue with the unit isn’t the heater itself ( which I think is great ) , but the UK power supply it comes with. it ships with a unfused UK plug that falls foul of BS1363. Which is easily fixed by cutting it off and putting on a fuse UK plug. It won’t be an issue for the European or North American options.
Genuine question, unless I’ve made a mistake is there anyway that power supply be legal in the UK without a fused UK socket? Having read the regulations, I can’t see how it’s legal.
Also despite the unit power supply possibly being class two double insulated the earth pin should be conductor. Secondly the size of the moulding does not provide the required physical separation from the live and neutral.
@@WOFFY-qc9te the next video I take it apart to have a look inside one of the points I actually brought up is that it got a metal earth pin on the plug but doesn’t lead to anything. Whilst it is stamped with the double insulated logo and the cable is double insulated I thought that eliminated the requirement for it to have an earth pin.
@@MispronouncedAdventures No fuse ?, even if the power supply had an internal fuse the cable itself does not and potentially have in excess of 32 Amp nominal AC available, in real terms the peak fault current is far in excess of this and is controlled by the appropriate circuit breaker conforming to IEEE 18th Edition wiring regulations.
The Earth pin is not required for double insulated appliances however 1363 says that it should be entirely made of conductive material. The Earth pin also conducts any heat away from the plug allowing it to meet the expected power rating.
I do not recommend the power supply being in the case whilst in operation just in case any one thought that may be a good thing.
Great video I enjoyed whilst my heater burns through the kerosene. Best
@WOFFY-qc9te yes as in no fuse in the power supplies plug which is why it’s not compliant, in the next video I cut it off and add a fused plug.
The power supply plugs in the heater box externally so it would be quite difficult to actually put the power supply inside the case
@@MispronouncedAdventures The earth pin on the plug is sheathed which is another fail on top of the fuse. It can have a plastic earth pin if it is class 2 but if it was for a computer that type of power supply would have a functional earth for shielding.
You've gotta admire the blatant cheek of the Chinese. They actually stamped BS1363 on that crappy plug. 😂
Yeah, I actually joke about that in the next video
FYI, you can pull the pins out of the hinges and remove the front cover.
Yeah I only learnt that after I finished filming the second of these heaters! I originally looked on the inside assuming it would be a metal pin in the plastic but didn’t see anything so just continued. I didn’t realise it large external plastic ones!
Well, not sure about everyone else, but the comedy of errors after dropping that screw inside the case is the content I'm looking for 😂😂😂😂 Joking aside, a bit of a cliff hanger there, Alex. Not good for my anxiety levels. Just hurry up and release the next one, please 🙏
Oh, I had to leave in the comedy of errors of dropping the screw, then my tools, then the unit
Hi Alex, again great review. I disagree with you that the CDH are chipping the fan to balance them. Balancing requires a precise amount of material removal. As far as plastic parts go, the fan is a precision molded piece, and probably comes out of the mold well balanced. I think they are just breaking a lot of the fans in the assembly process.
Originally, I thought that. But with European made autoterms I’ve seen have multiple circular nips removed on there fans , with the Chinese ones I’ve seen broken chips removed but I’ve also seen tool cut chunks removed as well. As I also from times time work directly with companies I did actually query this two years ago with the company on the broken chunks removed bringing up quality issues they mentioned it was balancing
🇬🇧 👍🏽 December 2024
Bluddy awesome video buddy!!
Thank you for taking the time & clearly inordinate trouble to make this!
It kept on segue'ing into better & better tangents!
I even watched the ad all the way through, as it was also inventively done (biking around in Scotland).
Thank you very much. I love putting apart these heaters and seeing what’s new but also teaching people about them.
Thank you very much for saying you watched the ad section as well through. I know people don’t like them but the reality is it funds a lot of what the channel does.
Interesting video Alex. Nicely presented and informative. Be taking a look at one myself. I did look at the original design, this is nicely thought out.
I definitely see version 2 as an improvement form factor wise over the original version.
Interesting video as usual. My one is the previous version which also has a barometric sensor which allows the use of plateau mode which supposedly adjusts the fuel for high altitude use. It does display the pressure altitude on the controller and seems to be pretty accurate where I live.
Looking forward to the 2nd video.
Yes definitely the previous version also has an altitude sensor. Just did it on the main board opposed to an expansion board. Both versions display the altitude which is reasonably accurate. Although with this version I kept finding high altitude/plateau mode turning on by default.
Superb content Alex as always
Glad you enjoyed my nerdy ventures into how diesel heaters are built
Excellent video!! subscribed.....
Glad you liked my detailed tear down
Suggestion: Swap the ECUs and see what happens.
It'd be interesting to see how they may be compatible (or not).
Having testing them both that do run differently. Ecu hardware and software both very different. would be an interesting test to see what happens
@@MispronouncedAdventures I'm currently working on a _home_ made control(ler) circuit using a 555 timer for the pump and the speed variation of the fan motor.
Still wondering if one can use a linear heat sensitive resistor (thermistor?) to vary the PWM patternn(potentially build more than one 555 circuit). Need to think about safety cut-off design still.
Hi, I think Ian Marcy tried running one based on Adriano in his video’s, may be worth you watching. He als tried the afterburner control module. Take care and keep playing / investigating.
Interesting on the fins in the burn chamber for heat transfer. Might be worth doing a back to back with the same controller to see if that is the difference. Interesting to see what is in a webasto etc.
Take care M.
Great video, as usual 👌🏼 on question for the Arctic expert. When installing multiple fixed diesel heaters in your van. Do you need to use extra fuel pickup lines or can you just use a T-piece ?
Heater 1: A-term 2kw
Heater 2: A-tern 2kw
Heater 3: thermtop C (hydronic)
My model of van has an auxiliary fuel port in the sender unit so only 1 sender and then I use Y connectors. I personally use a Y over a T connector as it’s more favourable for flow.
@9:42 many van campers will route the exhaust thru the floor, nice to have a pre made hole
I doubt it, I don’t want to imagine how fiddly that would be to try and do that, especially with new fixtures actually hold the casing to the floor
@MispronouncedAdventures it's the reason many of these exhaust thru the base. Just because you wouldn't do it does not mean it doesn't happen everyday.
"pump not mounted at an angle" I hear that a lot but the Webasto's manual requires horizontal mounting for Diesel air heaters and only for Petrol versions it says "preferably 15-90°"
Different companies recommend different things and use different pumps. Autoterm’s manual recommends a slight angle on their diesel versions. Espar (which Chinese companies are based on) recommends an ideal angle of 15-35 degrees and 35-90 degrees as okay on their diesel versions in their manual. Both of those recommend it cannot be horizontal or less than 15 degrees. As the cavitation bubbles caused by each dosing stroke can get stuck inside the pump.
Although in this case, the specific heater I’m reviewing actually mentions on their website marketing that it is at an angle.
Although as you said, Webasto does recommend the opposite. need to go have a look up and see why and at there pump models
@@MispronouncedAdventures Interesting, thanks.
Great heater bin using one for last 12+ months no probs at all
Definitely good cost-effective options Chinese heaters. My main one fitted in my van has been in use for about four years
Would you comment on spares needed for continued operation in the long term and their availability.I.E. seals, additional glow plug , ECU , display. Thanks!
I genuinely recommend a whole spare heater. But I go remote places.
Basic spares would be a glow plug with seals kit
My man. How can you possibly argue this is any different from the all in one diesel heaters that have the fittings coming out of the bottom and "might leak harmful gas".
It is literally the same heater, but has a solid elbow before the flexible fitting.
I don’t think you understand what I was getting across , it’s the form factor of the those all in one heaters, not the heater itself.
The “all in one” portable heaters which I show at the beginning and reference often look like and are shown as a solution for a permanent installation in a vehicle . when they’re 100% not. Their metal frame has bolt holes to be fastened down to a floor and it looks like a flexible exhaust could be added and run through the floor, and the companies often use marketing photos of showing them in vehicles. ( which I show in the video )
Someone who’s not familiar with the heaters style could think that that’s a perfectly acceptable way of mounting those type Inside a a vehicle.
Portable all on one toolbox style heaters just don’t have that sort of form factor. It wouldn’t make any sense to mount it like that in a vehicle, and very difficult to do so given the configuration of the heater.
Portable heaters like this should be mounted outside of a vehicle, tent or a space and pump hot air in.
I do actually make more of a point of this in the first video and explain how people who have done it can rectify it. I only briefly mentioned it in this intro so it wasn’t going over already talked about area.
TLDR
Normal type all in one heaters look like that could be mounted inside a vehicle, which is unsafe
All in one toolbox heater don’t look like they could be mounted inside a vehicle, because they would be a horribly awkward configuration to do so
@@MispronouncedAdventures Fair play. I've got one installed my small shop but not a vehicle, with a CO sensor. Cost me £80 and has worked a treat.
Does this heater get damaged / overheat with a loss power??
@@user-st5rc9nz4j They won't overheat or get damaged, but if switched off abruptly multiple times, it will get covered in soot and will need stripping down and cleaning.
I got the same heater. I'm surprised you didn't say anything about what a pain it is to take apart. It isn't easy to take apart the box and get the heater out. I think the design of the box is really poor. Did you notice, they leave one screw out of the rear panel because it isn't accessible with the heater in place. I found two things installed incorrectly on mine. They definitely have a quality problem. The other issue with the box is all the little plastic wells around the fuel filler. If you spill any diesel when refilling, they catch the diesel and it is hard to clean them out. heater and controller seems OK, I think the fix is to get a harbor freight pelican case copy and transfer the internals to a new box.
I wasn’t too bothered about the box itself, I thought for the price it was actually rather good. but then I’m gonna have dismantled the other ones, i found the first on difficult. But this time I knew how disassembly it. I did notice the missing screw on the heater.
@@MispronouncedAdventures I managed to replace that screw and flex the case enough to get the heater back in. when putting in the screws for the cover I found I was 1 screw short, and that's when I figured it out that that screw wasn't originally installed when they assembled the box. I found that my heater was glued shut like yours. The exhaust pipe is impressively thick and the controller is nice and bright. They are definitely improving the technology over the standard CDH .
I was genuinely expecting the Burn chamber to be longer when you showed it had a 90mm outlet, like that seen in the Hcalory 6-8.5KW, David Mcluckie did a review on them about a year ago, i was looking to buy a bare unit Hcalory one recently to go in place of the 5kw suitcase model I bought for my old mans garage last year, unfortunately they seem to be out of stock, I was hoping going the Kroak route might of been a way forward but I don’t think I’ll bother.
I was also expecting a longer burn chamber as it says there is one.
whilst It didn’t have the longer body, the other claim was 50-100C lower exhaust temperature which is did have. toolbox 2 also has a way lower max HZ than TB1 but there are a few other differences between TB1 & TB2. I did chat to David McLuckie the other week as we were both reviewing TB2.
@ I wonder how there managing the claims, I’ve just been and looked at David’s channel and found he’s reviewed also (both informative as always), I bought a Hcalory 5kw after watching his channel last year with a view to upgrading the 5kw to an 8kw for the garage unit and using the 5kw body for my van, unfortunately they seem to be out of stock everywhere
Side by side of the heater in Toolbox 1 vs Toolbox 2. The burn chamber in Toolbox 2 has a lot more fins, so a higher surface area for heat transfer. So make sense lower exhaust temperature
@ ahh yes, you mentioned fins and what have you, does make sense, I’m keeping my eyes out for further reviews 👌🏻
Can you explain the differences in thermostats available for these heaters and which ones you recommend?
When you say thermostats, do you mean the different controllers? The next video I compare it to generation 1 and talk about a few differences. Version two has different app, ventilation mode. No fuel gauge option, and quite a few other things
The major drawbacks are simply due to lack of proper mechanical and venting installations + lack of learned mechanical skill..... these things are ingenious for 150$. And are very clean burning....the controllers do have quite the learning curve.
Install and usage the main issue with the all in one types. no issues with all in one when used externally, for internal in a vehicle it’s should us a turret mount.
The amount of controllers types can definitely be learning curve
Interesting stuff, thank you. Looking forward to the testing :)
Thank you. I probably go over the top with testing we have data and graphs!
Out of curiosity are the air fitlers actually air filters or are they just a resonator? As I always thought they were just there to quiten the intake heater down
Depends on the model. I have seen some where the inside is empty or just straight tube, whilst others have been a type of sponge acting as a basic filter
@@MispronouncedAdventures I've got a HCalory and a second hand Webasto Top V on the way so I'm definitely gonna have a look at what they come with. Your videos combined with the frozen windscreen of my van has convinced me they'll make my life a lot easier on these cold British mornings 😂
I couldn't tell by the video but does the case provide enough space to change the way the exhaust exits the case? Either to one side or out the other end?
It’s going to be only one side for the exit. the air intake, fuel line and heater mount would be in the way. The case has the exhaust output at the opposite of the heating air inside so it can suck it in
I’m surprised they don’t install the muffler in the case. It looks like it would fit and remove one more external piece. Possibly a mod worth doing.
@@richardweerasinghe3296 that was also one of my thoughts as well. Plenty of space for it.
Muffler is not air tight. Sounds like a great way to kill yourself.
But the mufflers not sealed properly and has a drain hole.
@ fair point. Maybe not suitable for internal install.
You make a good point about extra risk from leaks with more connections, however the Heater like this shouldn’t be inside in the first place. so leaking from the condensation hole on a muffler isn’t to much of an issue as the heater should be outside in the first place. There is already the risk of exhaust leak leaks from the main connection to the heater. Which I guess Is one reasons the heater box is actually so well ventilated.
Great work, but less zoom-cuts please
Another useful video.
Glad you thought so!
Illegal plug? Do you not have circuit breakers or fuse boxes?
Yes we have fuses boxes” which have MCB’s and RCD’s in them, but part of regs ( BS1363 ) is all UK plugs ( individual appliances) need to be fused via the plug as well. one of the reasons being normally in homes we use Ring circuits for domestic wiring which generally carry higher loads the radical circuits use in the EU. So ours “fuse boxes” will have high rated breakers / MCB’s like 32A. those are to protect the circuit, each plug is fused to a max of 13A ( or less) because of this to protect the appliance wiring.
I wish there was a way to have this inside my van and run the exhaust out
What’s your reason for wanting to have a toolbox form factor inside your van? why not just mount the diesel heater component of it with a turret mount inside? It would be a lot smaller
Hey Alex, ive got a weird application id like to try for diesel heather, can i get a consult from you? Main concern is temperature fluctuating
Yes, no problem at all. Probably via Instagram for DM would be the best option if not, feel free to email me.
Not in the market for a diesel heater, but just wondering if you will be going to the Arctic again this winter?
I definitely will! and all being well leaving the first week of January
@@MispronouncedAdventures Awesome! Counting down the weeks!
@marcOSSNL I can’t wait
Actually did not receive the true full TB2 heater. It is actually supposed to be about an inch or so longer than standard. Notice on the marketing pics you showed mention LONGER. That is supposed to be one of the improvements. Air passes over longer exterior to absorb heat instead of exhaust. They even put a longer neck on the case. But with std length you just get empty space. I ordered several diff places and always got std version. Guessing they ran out or into problems with longer one. But there are some videos that showed it.
I did notice it wasn’t longer any longer than normal casings. But it did preform as advertised and have 50-100c lower exhaust temperatures than TB1.
The plug also must be a minimum size as well as the fuse ie the pins have a distance they need to be from the edge of the plug
I wasn’t aware of that particular part. The iron of this plug having BS1363 stamped on itself while it multiple things not to be compliant to it.
Can you use kerosene/ heating oil instead of diesel ?
Yes, many people do. Not something I’ve done myself but I know others who have, it’s meant to be cleaner. Potentially heard the only long-term issue is you can apparently damage pumps because it’s not lubricant unlike diesel although I think that is a long-term potential problem.
groovy
Thank you
Why fuse the plug if all the sockets are already fused?
Compare with Schuko sockets and plugs: There is only a fuse in the main fuse box.
So I wouldn't panic...
Panic isn’t the point, it’s not compliant in the UK law.
individual sockets are not fused in the UK, our plugs are fused for each appliance. as domestic wiring normally use a ring circuits are normally protected by a larger 32A MCB ( miniature circuit breaker, technically not a fuse ) so lower ( 3A, 5A, 13A ) fused plugs are used for each appliance
European domestic wiring normally use radial circuits more, small 16A MCB’s ( or fuses at the consumer unit / main fuse box ), less outlets and overall carry less load overall per circuit.
Is this transformer double insulated ? If it is the earth prong will only be to open the ports for the live and neutral prongs ? Interested to know?
@timstradling7764 I take it apart and show it to camera in the next video. The cable is double insulated. unless, my understanding of the double insulated is wrong. The cable has two cores, live and neutral ( brown and blue ) individually sheathed and then the black outer sheathed.
Thank you , other comments from far more knowledgeable people than me.
I don't understand why these heaters that are Bluetooth enabled just don't use the GPS on the phone to calculate the elevation/altitude. Of course, then there wouldn't be the altitude compensation if the phone was not connected but then why spend the extra money for Bluetooth compatibility.
I’d guess a Bluetooth module is more expensive than a barometric sensor for manufacturing. Additionally, that would require constant phone connection for accurate data
@@MispronouncedAdventures I just bought a heater with bluetooth. I plan on using the phone for all controls except for initial setup. As far as the heater using the phones GPS, if the software of the heater was written correctly, it could get it's altitude from the phone and remember the altitude for when the phone is not connected. If you are camping somewhere and using the heater, the heater's altitude isn't going to change once you set up camp and if you move, you would shut down the heater and start it up at the new location with your phone and it could get it's new altitude. Unfortunately, the Chinese don't write good software, they only copy things.
Are you still thinking of changing your van
Definitely. Likely be after the coming winter and build during the middle section of next year for .
Just a slow process getting hold of a new vehicle
Pull dem pins out on that door flap n can remove it
That’s a very fair point. I just went and checked. I looked for metal pins on the inside to push out and didn’t see them so I moved on and left it. I didn’t realise they were large plastic pins on the exterior until you’ve just made me re look.
@MispronouncedAdventures ya I didn't know until someone let me in on the secret as well lol
Surly you in the video discription mean " make it compliant" not "complain" 😜
It’s on brand to mispronounce and spell things wrong 😂😂
Fixed now, thank you
@MispronouncedAdventures lol, I know, I just thought it might be worth pointing it out quickly. Tbh I was torn thinking about it. I hope I didn't offend, it was not my intention.
@lincolndave1966able no problem at all. I’m happy to crowd source spelling corrections and mistake from the community! Definitely not offended!
Thank you, a very well made video, looking forward to watching part two.
Yes, you need to change the 240v plug and use a 20 amp fuse.
The sunster t10 can now support a remote carbon monoxide detector/controller which you can hang up in your vehicle.
ruclips.net/video/2BNLcSvWyGU/видео.htmlsi=uCFVLuHu9CNYJFsz
The next video I take apart the charger and replaced the plug to make it compliant, I also put a three amp fuse in the plug opposed to a 13 amp.
It’s good to seeing that some of these companies are starting to use CO detectors for an added safety feature in controllers
180 bucks at walmart. u.s. version.
@@CombatDoc54 sounds about right for US prices, as NA price is generally are a bit cheaper than UK and EU . Looking online at US prices I can see around $199
Honestly we burn gas in our homes every day for cooking. You can definitely use the diesel heaters in your house without needing to put the exhaust outside. Plus you get more heat that way
You can if you want to die with carbon monoxide poisoning!! Never use indoors without venting the exhaust outside. Crazy
You’re being sarcastic, right?
🤔
Yup - but methane only produces water & CO2, & you'd struggle to get an incomplete burn on an open gas hob, which is the only time a gas hob could create dangerous gasses (CO).
Burning diesel however - even a complete burn without CO produced - will still produce tonnes of toxic gasses & particulates!
There's no safe way to have it fully indoors - unless you're talking a warehouse with tonnes of ventilation, or open roller shutters both ends or something.
Yeah and you can run the exhaust pipe under blankets to keep you warm and cosy at night.
"Halcory?" You pronounce it "Halcory?"
Probably mispronounced it. Kind of how my dyslexic mind reads it.
It's a bit of a dumb name in my opinion. I always have it as 'h-calory' (aitch-kaloar-ree) in my mind.
Seems to follow the channel name pretty good! :)
👍🚐😎
Cheers
Always do the opposite of what the tyrants command.
Odd comment, relevance to this video?