Thanks, great video. I've started to use it too recently, and I am a convert! super critical to clean the chain very thoroughly the first time. put the chain in a small bottle with turpentine and shake it well. the turp will turn black instantly. Do it again with another pour of turp, shake, and again and agian until the liquid stays clear. then remove any solvent residue with acetone, again in a shaking bottle. Do it a few times until the acetone stays completely clear. It sounds more difficult than it is really. let the chain dry off the acetone (will be quick), then put the chain on the bike and apply Squirt. blissful riding from there on!
Tried Squirt on my single speed and beach cruiser bikes. Easy to apply, waiting that first overnight to try bikes was only hard part. Chains on both are quieter, remain cleaner and whether its in my head or not pedaling seemingly more efficient. I recommend the product.
I'm using paraffin wax in a crock pot initially after I've degreased it....then put it on my recumbent trike and go riding. I have the Squirt wax so if I'm on a multiday ride and have ridden 200-300 miles I'd then lube with squirt until I get back home to do a proper re-wax.
I’ve started using this when I replaced my chain on road bike.... never going back to normal lines again. Chain is easy to maintain and like you said no black greasy residue everywhere. I only use a rag to clean the rear cogs, no need to de grease. Big thumbs up!👍 great review by the way!
I used Finish Line Dry before I switched to hot dip waxing. As you said, it's better to start with a new chain and strip/degrease the factory grease right away.
I'm planning on using the molten speed wax on my new recumbent chain (12') then use the Squirt wax during long multiday tours. I feel doing the hot wax is better in getting the wax and Teflon into the plates, rollers and pins then solidifies when cooled down....this blocks any openings for dirt grime and water getting in to make the grinding paste which shortens the chains life. Squirt will help on those long rides where you can't do the hot wax....or just hot wax multiple chains like some pros do and swap out the chains as needed.
I do road and mtb both. Put squirt on mtb for first time. It was very smooth on the ride next day. Gotta try it on road next. I definitely felt like my peddling efficiency was better.
Soaking a rag with motor oil (any engine oil will do) and pulling the chain through it is all I do. That's it. Nothing else. Repeat every week on rainy conditions and every month on dry conditions. No special expensive chain oil, chain wax and no degreaser or anything else needed. Motor oil has everything needed, it works not only as a lubricant but also as a detergent and rust inhibitor, it has anti wear components, too. In winter it's thin enough and in summer thick enough due to its viscostiy improvers it comes with when it is a multigrade oil which every motor oil nowadays is. Like I said, everything ever needed is already in motor oil included. There is no cheaper and more effective way to take care of your bicycle chain.
Applied this to a recently cleaned drive chain and completed a 120 km ride in Tokyo, Japan last weekend. The gears and chain felt smooth and not the usual black oily marks and dirty looking chain that I normally get after a ride.
I spent the whole of the spring and summer seasons here in Scotland using the molten paraffin wax/PTFE (OzCycles) method on my Giant TCR and i loved how smooth my drivetrain felt and how spotlessly clean it stayed. The process is incredibly time consuming and messy though and the novelty began to wear off around middle of September when i decided to try Squirt. I find Squirt is very nearly as good but with none of the mess or hassle. I still have a significant amount of PTFE powder left so i'm gonna add some of that to the squirt and give it a good shake and i think that will give very very similar results to the molten wax immersion method.
If you don't mind, let me know how that works out. The OzCycles guy is the gold standard of DIY waxing, but I just never thought I would want to try it (maybe someday for RUclips just to test it). Squirt is so easy. Thanks for watching and subscribing.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia So far so good. Its freezing here in Scotland now Temperatures vary from -7°C to about +3°C most days. The roads are now wet, salty and muddy. The Squirt PTFE mixture is working a treat though, i have to say. Mostly rust free still. Chain, cassette and chainrings need a good rinse with cold water to get the salt off then rubbed dry with a cloth of rag. But all running smooth.
With your chain off the bike lay it flat after you clean it , pour Squirt onto the chain and work it in to the rollers etc. vigorously with a toothbrush. Just laying it on top of the chain will do nothing.
I was wondering. Since wax soften above 80 degrees. Seems like the wax as it is softening on the chain when outside in temps are. above 90 plus the temperature from the road. The wax would be in a liquid state and would attract dirty. When you get home the wax cool and hardens again leaving the dirt on the outside of the chain for you to wipe off. At least that's what I'm experiencing.
Your guess is as good as mine. I wipe down the chain before the ride so there's no wax on the outside of the chain, only inside the rollers. That helps.
Nice video doc I think that guy you’re talking about is from Australia is oz cycling he has a lot of good videos also and I think a good idea to keep in your bag to is surgical gloves so your hands stay clean if you have to put back on a drop chain or whatever how many bikes do you own that could be good content for a video .
If you wax your chain instead of using oil based lube, you wont need gloves. The chain stays immaculate for hundreds of miles unless you decide you ride through a muddy swamp. 😂
thanks for sharing. definitely going to switch to wax on my next chain. in the trainerRoad forums there's a ton of people who have gone the full-wax route, crock pot parafin etc. Would be interesting to hear more about how that compares to squirt wax. I agree squirt wax seems like less work, wondering if you can do the full wax route and then use squirt as a top-off every several hundred miles instead of taking the chain off and re-waxing it
The taking the chain off every 100 miles and putting it in the crock pot does not appeal to me. That would mean that some weeks, I'd be cooking it twice in one week. The Squirt wax is the next best option considering it's easier. It's probably not a big deal cooking it in the crock pot once you get used to it, I guess.
Finish line dry is NOT oil and is really good but people put too much on! Wax (Squirt if you like) or Finishline the 1st step is too entirely strip the chain and dry it entirely (NO gasoline just bio solvents) AND do the same to the cassette and chainrings And jockey wheels (relube the jockey wheels them as per manufacturer instructions). Then only put a drop on each roller and let it sit a bit so the teflon or wax deposits in each roller and the solvent evaporates, then wipe it down and start over, wait a bit and install it, wipe it down and ride.(as a preventive you can wipe down the chain + cassette rings and jockey wheels every ride it keeps things neat) Both are really clean and maintenance is the same every 150-200 miles just wipe down the drive drain components and chain as usual AND apply a drop again and wait and rewipe. Full strip and relube 2x a year. It works and I get 7000 k's out of my Campagnolo Record 11 chains (swapped on a pair to be light on the cassette and rings wear ratio) and 4000/4500 out of the KMC X11sl (at most)(MTB) (single).
I find the rollers don’t spin as easily using Squirt compared to conventional light chain oil. I must admit the whole drive train runs much cleaner with Squirt.
Dude, just think about this...do wax really go inside the chain roller, it'll make your chain clean though. Wax are only good on metal to polish, not for lube...but people are sold on this it's unbelievable.
I use squirt wax on my mtb chain.i degrease the chain after about 60km(about once in 3 times of riding) and then apply squirt wax again.is it a good choice?? Great video
I have been hearing about this product. Is it ok to use on an ebike? I have a Specialized Creo SL. I also have a Roubaix DI2 and a BMC gravel ebike. Simple green: I use alcohol and WD40 to clean my clean. Let me know what you think, if you have time.
The short answer is that you need to buy the specific Squirt wax that is for E-bikes (it's on their website) that's designed for the higher rotational forces. Here's a video on everything you'll need to know and the only difference is to get the specific Squirt lube for the ebike: ruclips.net/video/aTh6ZAPxglg/видео.html Hopefully that helps.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia I have used it for 4 months. Nasty weather in utah. Salt, snow, rain, mud. I was out on my Roubaix and I couldn’t hear the chain. I have the DI2. I don’t hear it shift. I didn’t get the chain spotless; I still get a little grease on the fag. But that being said, my ride and shifting is so much smoother. Cassette is still clean. I don’t get a tattoo. Question: do I need 2 coats or 1 when I re-apply it after 150? This is amazing stuff
I used Squirt lube on my chain and got caught in a rain storm. Do I need to clean it and re-lube? This is an amazing product. My chain runs much quieter now
Yes. However, where I live I just go out in the sun, but I do notice that the wax is thicker when it’s cold. If you live in an area where it’s really cold, heat up the bottle under hot water or use a heat gun
Hi, this is a great video I tried squirt once and don't think I cleaned my chain properly. I then took it off and cleaned it again much more thoroughly soaking it in white spirit and will test this. My only concern is when it rains. If it rains on a long ride, will the wax just wash off? Should I carry some extra with me on my ride to apply midway through a rainy ride? Thanks
I wouldn't carry it on a long ride. Think of candle wax on your chain...if it's raining, it would repel the water. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
I've been using Squirt for over 2 years now and refuse to go back to any type of oil on my chains. I usually let a new chain soak overnight in mineral spirits after I purchase it. It gets rinsed with water and then I use air from a compressor to dry out the water. It then air dries until its ready to be mounted. One thing that I have noticed is that applying Squirt after a ride rather than just before a ride will give you better results as it allows the wax to dry and settle in better.
Read Zero Friction Cycling’s in depth study of Squirt. It’s not positive at all and put me right off using it. Squirt has relatively high wear rates and the performance whilst initially good, turns out to be very poor long term.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia At the moment I’m still using wet lube. If I were to make the transition to waxed drip I’d probably use UFO or Silca Super Secret lube. I bought a bottle of Squirt three months ago with the intentions of making the transition across to waxed drip lube, but it has sat there totally unused due to the very negative review on Zero Friction Cycling. Here is a link in case you are interested: zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Squirt.pdf
Hi, I started using Squirt but I did get a black paste after a few rides. I removed the chain degreased it a few times then I used Mineral Spirit a few times then I used denatured alcohol for the final clean. Let it dry and did two applications of wax lube. I did notice a difference right away the first few rides. I reapplied near 100miles did not use a rag to clean it was not super bad. Now I see black build up around the rear jockey wheels and some on the chainrings and of course in the chain. Does that mean I apply to much? I did a few rides that had to go over puddles of water would that also cause the black paste? Or could this mean there is still some oil in the chain? 2nd part you just use a rag to wipe then add more wax? Do you wash the bike at all? What happens if I want to wash the bike? Would that remove all the wax? Thank you.
Here's how I clean my bike and chain: ruclips.net/video/VxXm59F9Aek/видео.html The black is probably just dirt/water/crap from the ground combined with the wax of the chain. That's my guess. Simple rides: I just wipe down with a rag and apply more wax every 100 or 150 miles.
Cycling in Southern California yes I think that is what is it it does stain but much less than oil used to stain if you touch it. Would you say I should do a full cleaning again and reapply Squirt? With mineral spirit then denatured alcohol or just soap and water let it dry and reapply? Thanks for your advice.
I personally wouldn't do the fully cleaning again. Sounds like you did a good job in the beginning. I'd wipe the chain down with a towel, then reapply wax and just ride the heck out of it. After 300 miles, see how you like it. Realistically, it could be just stuff you're picking up from the tarmac.
The Squirt Application Instructions are available from their website, and state the following: NOTES FOR ROAD BIKE: After applying Squirt Chain Lube wipe the outside of the chain with a rag, taking most of the remaining chain lube off. In the event of the chain on a road bike going a bit black (soft rubber residue on some tar roads), still don't degrease.
Rusting as in there's water rusting your chain? Are you riding in the rain and not wiping it down afterwards? 1. Wipe it down afterwards and 2. Apply the wax just as I did in the video the night before a ride.
I don't think it's wet weather lube your chain might clean from dust and gunk But those wax stick and stained makes it much harder to clean or degrease I much proffered wet lube finish line cross country, yes it's little dirty but I can go anywhere anytime any weather
Well I found this stuff to be useless, my drive chain ended up with more rust than the using oil!! Whether it is the shittier winter weather in UK I'm not sure. Might try parafin wax. Re "watts" I felt no difference.
If you chain has rust after applying wax to it, then there's got to be something wrong. Try boiling the chain in wax like the guy from Oz does. If that doesn't work, just go back to oil.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia Yes , thats what I was going to do, I have all the kit, but just haven't got around to it yet :) . Might be a case of Summer wax, winter oil in the UK. But I did see another You tube video, by Katie Kookaburra ,who raved about Squirt as well, maybe its my method of application. Ride safe, Its bloody cold over here at the moment!
@@ashleywebb1835 I live in UK and ride all weathers. Chain must be clear of any oil, even a small amount will prevent wax adhering. In winter I re wax every 100 to 150 miles. Chain & bike stay much cleaner and that chain ring tattoo will be a distant memory. Oil just ends up as silica paste and creates loads of wear through abrasion.
sorry, but this is a very long advertisement for that stuff. I used to use it too. So glad I moved to oil. Wax will get so sticky after 100kms, close impossible to get of the jockey wheels. Oil has less friction than wax on your chain - that has been tested and proven. I stay away from any type of wax.
Agree. Although my go-to chain lube was that same dry lube you showed in your vid, I also tried one of the White Lightening wax lubes, but it left wax build-up on the pulley wheels, just like many years ago when I used it on my mtn bikes. I saw a chain lube test on RUclips and thought I'd try out the winner which was Muc-Off Dry Lube (wax), and this has worked out beautifully. My chain remains quite clean after road rides, and I plan to try it out next on my mountain bikes. Here's that chain lube comparison --> ruclips.net/video/FbFNrnQ4QUo/видео.html
I've been using Squirt for a year and a half; since I bought a new MTB. I have maybe 1500 miles on it, and the chain wear tool is just starting to tightly drop in the .50 side. I've found that it lasts longer between reapplication if I apply it (thoroughly) immediately after washing and rinsing the chain; while the chain is still wet. It seems to carry it into the nooks and crannies better. Here in Florida the trails are sandy and dusty, and Squirt is excellent at not attracting or holding grit. I did, just this morning, watch the comparison video you (Bruin) linked, and ordered the muc-off dry to try on the chain and cassette when I swap them out. (I tend to shift under load and the cassette is showing signs of it). Squirt will build up on jockey wheels and need to be scraped off occasionally; I do it maybe twice a year. No point in being brand loyal when something else may work better.
Thanks, great video. I've started to use it too recently, and I am a convert! super critical to clean the chain very thoroughly the first time. put the chain in a small bottle with turpentine and shake it well. the turp will turn black instantly. Do it again with another pour of turp, shake, and again and agian until the liquid stays clear. then remove any solvent residue with acetone, again in a shaking bottle. Do it a few times until the acetone stays completely clear. It sounds more difficult than it is really. let the chain dry off the acetone (will be quick), then put the chain on the bike and apply Squirt. blissful riding from there on!
Thanks for watching and subscribing. Thanks for contributing!
Tried Squirt on my single speed and beach cruiser bikes. Easy to apply, waiting that first overnight to try bikes was only hard part. Chains on both are quieter, remain cleaner and whether its in my head or not pedaling seemingly more efficient. I recommend the product.
Good stuff!
I'm using paraffin wax in a crock pot initially after I've degreased it....then put it on my recumbent trike and go riding. I have the Squirt wax so if I'm on a multiday ride and have ridden 200-300 miles I'd then lube with squirt until I get back home to do a proper re-wax.
I’ve started using this when I replaced my chain on road bike.... never going back to normal lines again. Chain is easy to maintain and like you said no black greasy residue everywhere. I only use a rag to clean the rear cogs, no need to de grease. Big thumbs up!👍 great review by the way!
Thank you very much! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
I used Finish Line Dry before I switched to hot dip waxing. As you said, it's better to start with a new chain and strip/degrease the factory grease right away.
@T Free At first I tried White Oil but it leaves too much oily residue, I find that gasoline is a good and cheap solution.
I use it on mtb, and really is as you said, always a clean and smooth chain no matter if is dry or wet conditions
Yep! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
I'm planning on using the molten speed wax on my new recumbent chain (12') then use the Squirt wax during long multiday tours. I feel doing the hot wax is better in getting the wax and Teflon into the plates, rollers and pins then solidifies when cooled down....this blocks any openings for dirt grime and water getting in to make the grinding paste which shortens the chains life. Squirt will help on those long rides where you can't do the hot wax....or just hot wax multiple chains like some pros do and swap out the chains as needed.
Sounds like a good idea
I do road and mtb both. Put squirt on mtb for first time. It was very smooth on the ride next day. Gotta try it on road next. I definitely felt like my peddling efficiency was better.
Me too
Just ordered Squirt for my ebike. Was considering the paraffin wax method but it's time consuming.
Fabulous videos.
Thanks for watching
Squirt is good stuff even on gravel bikes no degreaser needed at all. Shifts super smooth too
I think so as well!
Huh. I was always wondering about that. I'll have to try your way, sounds like it's better than mine. Never thought of the wax as a sealer.
It feels much smoother. Not getting oily marks ion my kit when I hang up my bike is a big bonus too.
You are correct. Thanks for watching and subscribing
Soaking a rag with motor oil (any engine oil will do) and pulling the chain through it is all I do.
That's it.
Nothing else.
Repeat every week on rainy conditions and every month on dry conditions.
No special expensive chain oil, chain wax and no degreaser or anything else needed.
Motor oil has everything needed, it works not only as a lubricant but also as a detergent and rust inhibitor, it has anti wear components, too. In winter it's thin enough and in summer thick enough due to its viscostiy improvers it comes with when it is a multigrade oil which every motor oil nowadays is.
Like I said, everything ever needed is already in motor oil included.
There is no cheaper and more effective way to take care of your bicycle chain.
Do you use “squirt”, after you “hot melt wax” melt the chain?
Only use Squirt on my road bike, cassette and chainrings still haven’t worn out and I have covered 10,000 miles.
Nice! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Thanks, you've opened pandora's waxy box! xx
@@jugaloo5873 ha ha!!!
Applied this to a recently cleaned drive chain and completed a 120 km ride in Tokyo, Japan last weekend. The gears and chain felt smooth and not the usual black oily marks and dirty looking chain that I normally get after a ride.
Thanks for subscribing! Isn't Squirt awesome stuff?
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia Love this stuff, little bit pricey though.
You're right. It's more expensive than other products, but I've found that you get what you pay for. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia better off using ptfe and hot waxing ,
It's does the job, and rides smoothly
I spent the whole of the spring and summer seasons here in Scotland using the molten paraffin wax/PTFE (OzCycles) method on my Giant TCR and i loved how smooth my drivetrain felt and how spotlessly clean it stayed. The process is incredibly time consuming and messy though and the novelty began to wear off around middle of September when i decided to try Squirt. I find Squirt is very nearly as good but with none of the mess or hassle. I still have a significant amount of PTFE powder left so i'm gonna add some of that to the squirt and give it a good shake and i think that will give very very similar results to the molten wax immersion method.
If you don't mind, let me know how that works out. The OzCycles guy is the gold standard of DIY waxing, but I just never thought I would want to try it (maybe someday for RUclips just to test it). Squirt is so easy. Thanks for watching and subscribing.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia So far so good. Its freezing here in Scotland now Temperatures vary from -7°C to about +3°C most days. The roads are now wet, salty and muddy. The Squirt PTFE mixture is working a treat though, i have to say. Mostly rust free still. Chain, cassette and chainrings need a good rinse with cold water to get the salt off then rubbed dry with a cloth of rag. But all running smooth.
OZ cleans the chain with gas, then cleans with denatured alcohol to make it dry. Making it dry makes the parrafin and PTFE mix adhere.
Yep!
With your chain off the bike lay it flat after you clean it , pour Squirt onto the chain and work it in to the rollers etc. vigorously with a toothbrush. Just laying it on top of the chain will do nothing.
Thanks for the tip!
Independent test show squirt is snake oil, has the same wear resistance in testing as water,
It’s not snake oil. It’s wax
I was wondering. Since wax soften above 80 degrees.
Seems like the wax as it is softening on the chain when outside in temps are. above 90 plus the temperature from the road.
The wax would be in a liquid state and would attract dirty.
When you get home the wax cool and hardens again leaving the dirt on the outside of the chain for you to wipe off.
At least that's what I'm experiencing.
Your guess is as good as mine. I wipe down the chain before the ride so there's no wax on the outside of the chain, only inside the rollers. That helps.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia I do that post ride. It is helping quite a bit
how does it work for mtb’s chains?
Nice video doc I think that guy you’re talking about is from Australia is oz cycling he has a lot of good videos also and I think a good idea to keep in your bag to is surgical gloves so your hands stay clean if you have to put back on a drop chain or whatever how many bikes do you own that could be good content for a video .
Thanks. Yes...good idea of the gloves. Here's what I currently carry in my saddle bag: ruclips.net/video/dJG9BoRbWTA/видео.html
If you wax your chain instead of using oil based lube, you wont need gloves. The chain stays immaculate for hundreds of miles unless you decide you ride through a muddy swamp. 😂
Cat 5 tattoos, hahahahaha
Very useful information thanks. Going to do this too.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for subscribing! Let me know how it works out for you.
thanks for sharing. definitely going to switch to wax on my next chain. in the trainerRoad forums there's a ton of people who have gone the full-wax route, crock pot parafin etc. Would be interesting to hear more about how that compares to squirt wax. I agree squirt wax seems like less work, wondering if you can do the full wax route and then use squirt as a top-off every several hundred miles instead of taking the chain off and re-waxing it
The taking the chain off every 100 miles and putting it in the crock pot does not appeal to me. That would mean that some weeks, I'd be cooking it twice in one week. The Squirt wax is the next best option considering it's easier. It's probably not a big deal cooking it in the crock pot once you get used to it, I guess.
Very thorough... so thorough that I subscribed... 😁
Welcome aboard!
Finish line dry is NOT oil and is really good but people put too much on! Wax (Squirt if you like) or Finishline the 1st step is too entirely strip the chain and dry it entirely (NO gasoline just bio solvents) AND do the same to the cassette and chainrings And jockey wheels (relube the jockey wheels them as per manufacturer instructions). Then only put a drop on each roller and let it sit a bit so the teflon or wax deposits in each roller and the solvent evaporates, then wipe it down and start over, wait a bit and install it, wipe it down and ride.(as a preventive you can wipe down the chain + cassette rings and jockey wheels every ride it keeps things neat) Both are really clean and maintenance is the same every 150-200 miles just wipe down the drive drain components and chain as usual AND apply a drop again and wait and rewipe. Full strip and relube 2x a year. It works and I get 7000 k's out of my Campagnolo Record 11 chains (swapped on a pair to be light on the cassette and rings wear ratio) and 4000/4500 out of the KMC X11sl (at most)(MTB) (single).
Thanks for making the suggestions!
topdog is longer lasting, faster and smoother shifting.
Love squirt wax!! So much cleaner and smoother--use on both my HT and FS mountain bikes.
Cool !
Turns out finish line is pretty bad.
Check out zero friction cycling, amazing data concerning chain lubrication
Yep. Good resource
I find the rollers don’t spin as easily using Squirt compared to conventional light chain oil. I must admit the whole drive train runs much cleaner with Squirt.
You are correct.
Dude, just think about this...do wax really go inside the chain roller, it'll make your chain clean though. Wax are only good on metal to polish, not for lube...but people are sold on this it's unbelievable.
@@jauxed I’ve used Squirt and the chain rollers just didn’t spin as freely compared to Finish Line Dry Film Lubricant.
@@michaelkennedy4444 I've done both. Thanks for the imput.
I use squirt wax on my mtb chain.i degrease the chain after about 60km(about once in 3 times of riding) and then apply squirt wax again.is it a good choice??
Great video
Yes
How would this work for me in muddy Scotland doing mtb
Better than oil, but it'll still be muddy.
I have been hearing about this product. Is it ok to use on an ebike? I have a Specialized Creo SL. I also have a Roubaix DI2 and a BMC gravel ebike. Simple green: I use alcohol and WD40 to clean my clean. Let me know what you think, if you have time.
The short answer is that you need to buy the specific Squirt wax that is for E-bikes (it's on their website) that's designed for the higher rotational forces. Here's a video on everything you'll need to know and the only difference is to get the specific Squirt lube for the ebike: ruclips.net/video/aTh6ZAPxglg/видео.html
Hopefully that helps.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia
I have used it for 4 months. Nasty weather in utah. Salt, snow, rain, mud. I was out on my Roubaix and I couldn’t hear the chain. I have the DI2. I don’t hear it shift. I didn’t get the chain spotless; I still get a little grease on the fag. But that being said, my ride and shifting is so much smoother. Cassette is still clean. I don’t get a tattoo. Question: do I need 2 coats or 1 when I re-apply it after 150? This is amazing stuff
I used Squirt lube on my chain and got caught in a rain storm. Do I need to clean it and re-lube? This is an amazing product. My chain runs much quieter now
Yes. Wipe it down immediately and rewax
Would using a heat gun during application help it penetrate?
Yes. However, where I live I just go out in the sun, but I do notice that the wax is thicker when it’s cold. If you live in an area where it’s really cold, heat up the bottle under hot water or use a heat gun
Hi, this is a great video
I tried squirt once and don't think I cleaned my chain properly.
I then took it off and cleaned it again much more thoroughly soaking it in white spirit and will test this.
My only concern is when it rains. If it rains on a long ride, will the wax just wash off?
Should I carry some extra with me on my ride to apply midway through a rainy ride?
Thanks
I wouldn't carry it on a long ride. Think of candle wax on your chain...if it's raining, it would repel the water. Thanks for watching and subscribing!
I’m curious to know if you’re still using Squirt since this initial video a couple of years ago, or if you’ve moved on to another lube.
I'm still using it.
Is degreasing with simple green and a chain cleaner good enough for a clean chain before you start using the squirt?
Yes
I've applied this with a not so clean chain, can I use degreaser to clean it? Or mineral spirits would be better?
Do both. Get it really clean. Look up my video on how to clean it then the other video on how to maintain it
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia alright. Thanks!
I've been using Squirt for over 2 years now and refuse to go back to any type of oil on my chains. I usually let a new chain soak overnight in mineral spirits after I purchase it. It gets rinsed with water and then I use air from a compressor to dry out the water. It then air dries until its ready to be mounted. One thing that I have noticed is that applying Squirt after a ride rather than just before a ride will give you better results as it allows the wax to dry and settle in better.
Good point. Thanks
Once every week or every 150 miles? What do you notice if you don't change every 150 miles?
I ride about 150 per week. If I rode one mile per day, I’d apply every 150 days. If you don’t apply, the chain is not as smooth
Read Zero Friction Cycling’s in depth study of Squirt. It’s not positive at all and put me right off using it. Squirt has relatively high wear rates and the performance whilst initially good, turns out to be very poor long term.
What are you using assuming you choose to not use squirt?
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia At the moment I’m still using wet lube. If I were to make the transition to waxed drip I’d probably use UFO or Silca Super Secret lube. I bought a bottle of Squirt three months ago with the intentions of making the transition across to waxed drip lube, but it has sat there totally unused due to the very negative review on Zero Friction Cycling. Here is a link in case you are interested: zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Squirt.pdf
Hi,
I started using Squirt but I did get a black paste after a few rides.
I removed the chain degreased it a few times then I used Mineral Spirit a few times then I used denatured alcohol for the final clean. Let it dry and did two applications of wax lube. I did notice a difference right away the first few rides.
I reapplied near 100miles did not use a rag to clean it was not super bad.
Now I see black build up around the rear jockey wheels and some on the chainrings and of course in the chain.
Does that mean I apply to much?
I did a few rides that had to go over puddles of water would that also cause the black paste?
Or could this mean there is still some oil in the chain?
2nd part you just use a rag to wipe then add more wax?
Do you wash the bike at all?
What happens if I want to wash the bike? Would that remove all the wax?
Thank you.
Here's how I clean my bike and chain: ruclips.net/video/VxXm59F9Aek/видео.html
The black is probably just dirt/water/crap from the ground combined with the wax of the chain. That's my guess. Simple rides: I just wipe down with a rag and apply more wax every 100 or 150 miles.
Cycling in Southern California yes I think that is what is it it does stain but much less than oil used to stain if you touch it.
Would you say I should do a full cleaning again and reapply Squirt?
With mineral spirit then denatured alcohol or just soap and water let it dry and reapply?
Thanks for your advice.
I personally wouldn't do the fully cleaning again. Sounds like you did a good job in the beginning. I'd wipe the chain down with a towel, then reapply wax and just ride the heck out of it. After 300 miles, see how you like it. Realistically, it could be just stuff you're picking up from the tarmac.
The Squirt Application Instructions are available from their website, and state the following:
NOTES FOR ROAD BIKE:
After applying Squirt Chain Lube wipe the outside of the chain with a rag, taking most of
the remaining chain lube off. In the event of the chain on a road bike going a bit black
(soft rubber residue on some tar roads), still don't degrease.
Thanks!
Wait till you actually start removing your chain and dumping it into a pot of molten wax, squirt wax wil seem redundant after that.
Some people like MSW and some people like Squirt. Thanks for watching and subscribing
Squirt....Excellent lube for bycycle...no doubt
Im using this but my chain is rusting. Am i not applying much in my chain??
Rusting as in there's water rusting your chain? Are you riding in the rain and not wiping it down afterwards? 1. Wipe it down afterwards and 2. Apply the wax just as I did in the video the night before a ride.
I don't think it's wet weather lube your chain might clean from dust and gunk
But those wax stick and stained makes it much harder to clean or degrease
I much proffered wet lube finish line cross country, yes it's little dirty but I can go anywhere anytime any weather
Well I found this stuff to be useless, my drive chain ended up with more rust than the using oil!! Whether it is the shittier winter weather in UK I'm not sure. Might try parafin wax. Re "watts" I felt no difference.
If you chain has rust after applying wax to it, then there's got to be something wrong. Try boiling the chain in wax like the guy from Oz does. If that doesn't work, just go back to oil.
@@cyclinginsoutherncalifornia Yes , thats what I was going to do, I have all the kit, but just haven't got around to it yet :) . Might be a case of Summer wax, winter oil in the UK. But I did see another You tube video, by Katie Kookaburra ,who raved about Squirt as well, maybe its my method of application. Ride safe, Its bloody cold over here at the moment!
@@ashleywebb1835 I live in UK and ride all weathers. Chain must be clear of any oil, even a small amount will prevent wax adhering. In winter I re wax every 100 to 150 miles. Chain & bike stay much cleaner and that chain ring tattoo will be a distant memory. Oil just ends up as silica paste and creates loads of wear through abrasion.
@@8martinp1 That's what I've found. Gotta clean the chain to perfection. Here's how I do it: ruclips.net/video/7adObPQ6-xg/видео.html
sorry, but this is a very long advertisement for that stuff. I used to use it too. So glad I moved to oil. Wax will get so sticky after 100kms, close impossible to get of the jockey wheels. Oil has less friction than wax on your chain - that has been tested and proven. I stay away from any type of wax.
Use oil
Do you use soap and water when wiping the chain down? What do you do when washing the bike? Can it be degreased?
Here's how I wash the entire bike including the chain: ruclips.net/video/VxXm59F9Aek/видео.html
Agree. Although my go-to chain lube was that same dry lube you showed in your vid, I also tried one of the White Lightening wax lubes, but it left wax build-up on the pulley wheels, just like many years ago when I used it on my mtn bikes. I saw a chain lube test on RUclips and thought I'd try out the winner which was Muc-Off Dry Lube (wax), and this has worked out beautifully. My chain remains quite clean after road rides, and I plan to try it out next on my mountain bikes. Here's that chain lube comparison --> ruclips.net/video/FbFNrnQ4QUo/видео.html
I've been using Squirt for a year and a half; since I bought a new MTB. I have maybe 1500 miles on it, and the chain wear tool is just starting to tightly drop in the .50 side.
I've found that it lasts longer between reapplication if I apply it (thoroughly) immediately after washing and rinsing the chain; while the chain is still wet. It seems to carry it into the nooks and crannies better.
Here in Florida the trails are sandy and dusty, and Squirt is excellent at not attracting or holding grit.
I did, just this morning, watch the comparison video you (Bruin) linked, and ordered the muc-off dry to try on the chain and cassette when I swap them out. (I tend to shift under load and the cassette is showing signs of it).
Squirt will build up on jockey wheels and need to be scraped off occasionally; I do it maybe twice a year.
No point in being brand loyal when something else may work better.