Chamonix's Most EXTREME Via Ferrata | Climbing Daily Ep.1485
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- Опубликовано: 21 авг 2024
- Get The Camp/Cassin Kinetic Rewind Pro: bit.ly/345PRIt
On today's Gear Show we go on a Via Feratta mission. Hugo and Matt test out the Camp/Cassin Kinetic Rewind Pro on one of the hardest Via Feratta's in the area. What do you think...it's a seriously exposed route...
Chamonix's Most EXTREME Via Feratta | Climbing Daily Ep.1485
A suggestion for all the beginners out there unsure about their endurance: bring with you a lanyard (dynamic rope) and use them for (and ONLY for) resting. While the via ferrata kits will save your life (they are done to make you endure a factor 2 fall) they are not done for resting. Whenever you want/need to rest, attach the lanyard to a metal step, keep it always in tension (“these lanyards must only be used when the potential fall factor is less than 1.” - petzl 2019)… and rest happily on your harness.
You can also carry and use a quickdraw
FYI, via ferrata lanyards can take up to a factor 5 or 6 fall, not just 2, and the screamer starts to extend from 120 kgs, so take into account the weight of the whole kit, add the climbers weight, and the fact that you'll practically never be able to load the system non-dynamically, and you'll find that you can't really rest on it.
On this via ferrata, please do take a standard lanyard, at least a quickdraw, because it really is properly hard and pumpy. I usually have pretty good endurance when I climb, and I had to take at least five or six rests along the last part of the route alone. BTW, they didn't do the last part of the route, which is the hardest (rated ED, I think)
some kits have that built in. I can recommend them
Via ferrata kits are done for resting as well, you just must not fall.
instablaster.
I Always love to see Hugo climb, just makes him light up so much!
I used to live just up the road from here so did this workout many times. I once went up with my friend who, as well as a climber is a ballerina. When we reached the rope traverse she started ballet dancing on it which was pretty amazing.
Where abouts is this located looks really good
@@kierantucker5218 Its just outside Argentière la Bessée. If you google VF and this name it will take you to their website. Its actually an old Italian route from WW2 but its really well maintained. The black route is really good.
That would make a wonderful RUclips video.
You really don't want to fall on a via ferrata. Bring gloves, you will touch a lot of metal. Fingerless gloves are the best, as they allow you to do a bit of rock climbing. Not all the routes have so many metal holds. Use good boots, and trust them on the footholds. The rigid sole holds nicely. You can use the cable to climb if you feel unsure or unsafe. Grab the cable, plant the feet on the wall, stick the butt out and go up. It's pumpy, it's ignorant but it can help you in a pinch. Bring a quickdraw to rest if the route is long. You want to absolutely avoid mistakes, rest, don't get too tired. Fun fact: if you're doing via ferrata right, you'll have pumped legs before pumped arms
Ferratas are fun, but once you climb a certain grade it just comes down to exposure and endurance. A rest sling is always a good idea, especially if you run into a traffic jam it can really help you.
The one thing to note is that falling is prohibited. So if you're new best start easy, take your time and know your limits.
I believe...may be wrong...but one of the origins of these fixed climbing routes was the Great War and Italian and opposing Austrian troops using fixed ladders etc to move through the Dolomites when fighting their mountain warfare. I climbed there and there are old trenches, tunnels through mountains and sections of barbed wire etc. Post war guides used the routes to take tourists into the mountains. The new stuff often runs alongside the old wooden ladders. It was a challenging place to fight and casualties from the weather and avalanche were dreadful. The kit has moved on a bit since my climbing. Gloves help as the wires can trash your palms. Clip on facing one away and one towards. You really don't want to fall as some 'fixed points' are up to ten metres apart which if on a ladder would be a long drop. I clipped to some rungs on ladders when I was feeling very exposed to shorten the potential drop. It can be very tiring and be prepared to climb past or over other climbers who have 'frozen' and being talked to by their guide. Cicerone guides are excellent to read about the routes and take along. Some you just drive to a car park...clip on and away you go. Thanks for your enthusiasm both.
Very intersting comment, thank you for sharing your knowledge !
@@NK-bz9wb For Italy, they have amazing website via ferrate 365 it (just google it), where you can filter all of 405 Italian ferratas by distance, approach time, technical difficulties, terrain, exposure, etc, with full reviews + pictures and videos. Actually very few via ferratas have no approach - usually you have to trek for 1-3 hours to get from nearest parking spot to clip-your-carabiniers-spot.
"I don't understand metal. Why am I holding onto METAL?" Hahaha amazing. Great video guys!
Would be nice to see a controlled fall using the kit to see how it all works - Matt next time you're reviewing a gym...?
Normally you should not fall on via ferrata kit. If it works it'll be unusable afterwards.
@@esculapio69 but maybe they could visit the production and film the tests.
@@esculapio69 Yeah I get that but I want to see how it works. maybe it could be compared to a fall on a homemade sling system device to the the difference.
To be fair I never got why bother with via ferrata kit, when you can use 2 strands of dynamic rope. Cheaper, safer, and takes many falls.
@@Geomontage Sure, it's always interesting to see equipment tests. My comment was to discourage anybody from making a test on the field, which could be really dangerous, since via ferrata gear allows only one fall, unlike climbing ropes. I found this video that you might like: ruclips.net/video/me0dSWbEq8I/видео.html
How many looked up falling on via Ferrata after he said not to lol
Right after they said don't! HAHA ^^
was just looking for this comment because im about to haha
ha! of course.
Just contemplating looking it up. I fell once but luckily not far, still whacked my back on a staple and wished I hadn't.
‘I’m alive!’ - me after every dang via Ferrata.
Guys, you should try more real via ferratas in the Austrian Alps or the Italian Dolomites. This one did not look too hard since it involved a lot of using metal secured spots. Pumpy yes but not hard. Usually via ferratas involve a lot more rock climbing and using the cables only as support if you fall. One nice and long ferrata is Lipella - in the Dolomites. And use gloves, it helps a lot. Keep it going! :)
if possible, you should always grip the metal when going Via Ferratas. It's there for a reason and it always makes me kind of *facepalm when I see people (here in Austria) going them like they would be sports climbing.
@@chaosengine4597 Why? Logically, if you grip the metal rope and it fails, congratulations - you are dead. If you grip rock and it fails, you still have metal rope to save you.
@@chaosengine4597 Many of the black routes run out of metal grips and demand you use the rock to reach the next grip.
Awesome ferrata 😍
I think that it would be safer to keep a larger distance between each person when climbing straight up in order to reduce risk of one climber falling on another
Beginner's mistake
An other via ferrata beginner's mistake, at the big rope bridge traverse 10:00, don't put both vf carabiners on 1 rope, spread the risk, clip 1 on the top rope and the other on a hand rope.
Great video
I suggest a strong pair of gloves is also useful
Looks like a pretty recently bolted via ferrata! Super well protected it seems, I wonder which grade this is? Also, with so many metal holds I would use ferrata gloves :D
As an Italian, I am just loving the cockney-ish way you pronounce "Via ferra'a" 😁
Take via ferrata gloves next time - it will make quite a difference with metal and humidity... also another product for the gear show.
Reminds me of the via Ferrata in sixt fer a cheval. A great substitute for real climbing as it gets you to places impossible for the average rock climber. Highly recommended
2:30 - DON'T clip both of them the same direction! Always have one carabiner that is facing the other way then other one! What you did might be very dangerous - both of them might open if rock or metal bar (very close to them on 2:30) touch them.
I believe with some via Ferrata clips you have to squeeze a part on the back for the clip to open ( assuming that's what the black part on theirs is) hopefully preventing that. But regardless, good idea to do that also, can never be too carefull.
@@elizabethstanley6380 Yes, these are single locking snaps, but you could still open them both at once, especially if you were to grab them if you fall.
This is so important!!
First time I've been served your channel
This is epic
Having done some trail building In Ansel Adams & John Muir Wilderness areas, I would love to see how these Ferrattas are established/opened/put up. Truly some clever engineering
Hi, I live there and I've done this via ferrata, it's not in Chamonix but in Saint Gervais.
What's it's name please? I'd planned on a weeks holiday in Cham doing via ferrata. I picked up the cicerone guide for the French Alps. Wondering if it's in there, it looks fun.
@@andycowley7979 Probably this: www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettersteig/via-ferrata-du-parc-thermal-saint-gervais/
I found that bigger carabiner are always better, here in Italy sometimes you have to clip into big chains instead of the metal wire, and with the smaller one that i have, it's quite uncomfortable and potentially dangerous. Great vid BTW, that ferrata look really cool!
Anyone know the name of this via Ferrara? It looks amazing!
Via ferrata du parc thermal, that's the name
10:34 Ever heard of highlining, Matt?
I would suggest to wear a specific pair of gloves to improve confort and also some of the VF kits have an extra hook where you can put a carabiner for resting yourself (you can also add a dedicated lanyard). BTW, you should take a look at the Via Ferrata we have in Spain. Some of the seem to be made only for circus acrobats 😵
2:34 You put both gates towards the wall. Someone (salesguy who studied alpinism) told me today best would be to put one gate towards the wall and one towards yourself. Do you agree on that?
Love the variation by including via ferrata! 🤟🏻
I'm staying in Saint Gervais in September with a couple of mates. Guess what's on our TODO list now??
Nice video, but you make basic mistake. In Poland in rock low level climbing course when you use two bent-gate carabiners (express carabiner) almost always you must rmember to use "mirror lock". That mean on of bent-gate carabiner (bent gate) look to rock, and second gate of carabiner look to you. I hope you knew what I want to write. The instructors talk very ofen about this type of connetions with any asecuration points. Its much less posible to open accidentaly two "mirrored" carabiner, When you use carabiner as you have in video its very very easy. Sometimes instructors take a people (who don't make mirror connetion) to special rock way and (add)/make asecuration with a "student". In my group (10 peoples) 8 fall of the wall, beacouse rock open, and unlock their carabiner. Sorry for my english, I hope you understood what I want to write. I wish you finish lot of great and hard rotues in mountians.
This is not required anymore with the modern via ferrata sets as you need to press on two points to open them.
If you watch the video they talk about the special Via Ferrata carabiniers that they are using. These lock once they are shut, so that they cannot open accidentally from contact with the rock.
Quite an interesting engineering feat. Would be interested in the Via Ferrata Crew & how they put routes up
CAMP and Edelrid makes the best kits right now. For anyone being interested in it...
incredibly great people who have made this extreme path
Was thinking "yeah I'm up for that" until I saw the rope traverse and then it's "nope, never"
When walking across the wire, you guys had your feet perpendicular to the wire. Is there a reason for that? I know on a log, keeping your feet parallel gives you more balance, and Im wondering if that is any different. @EpicTV Climbing Daily
10:29
We did this a few months ago, as a rest day, but now I dont feel as bad for being super sweaty and super pumped ha ha, great day out
Im not the only one who read "Lockdown" instead of "look down" in the thumbnail...
10:30 You clipped both of your lines to the middle cable, your buddy previous clipped one on the left and the other to the right, basically spreading risk over 2 cables and taking less risk right..?
Am I the only one that finds Via Ferratas way more scary than climbing?
No
why is more scary?
@@soitwasme because falling during lead climbing is part of the sport.
Falling on a via ferrata is a big no-no. Just imagine what would you do if you fall on that bridge? You are still clipped. You need to know proper technique to recover from that.
At the same difficulty, absolutely. But a via ferrata at a trivial difficulty is less scary that sport climbing at the limit. The trick is to not climb via ferrata as close to your limit as close as you could on a bolted route and always stay at a comfortable difficulty.
So obviously, scariness for same difficulty is: free soloing > via ferrata > bolted climb. I have no idea how via ferrata compares to trad climbing, because that has a degree on uncertainty. You could fall on trad and be totally fine, but you could also have a big zipper fall. On via ferrata, you know that you will live, but it will suck and you will need to be rescued.
Why the UK don't have that much Via Ferrata routes available? Is there some sort of regulation restriction against it?
The attitude in the UK is that if you don't know what you're doing, you don't belong in the mountains, so it's generally less tourist friendly as opposed to the alps, for instance.
Would you not suggest to put the two caribeners in opposing locking directions?
you did not do the last section ? It's also nice and pumpy
la via ferrata n'est pas du tout à Chamonix, mas 25 km plus bas en aval au Fayet au parc thermal
How is a rope used in conjunction w/the via ferrata kit? Do you use a single rope like an 8.9 rope? And what length?
great video! one question: which shoes did you guys use?
That looks like so much fun
Seems like if you fall on the ladder, you could go a ways before the biner hits the next connection in the cable. Meanwhile, you are smashing into rebar and rock. And if you are hanging, there is no way to jumar back up? So, yeah, don't fall.
couple makers now produce dynamic slings made of essentialy 8mm dynamic rope, think these are safe? has anyone tested them? I suppose on a via ferrata, you might have max fall-factors like 3-4 which sounds pretty scary no matter what your protection looks like.
If your in this area bit want something a bit easier try the one at fort l'Ecluse it is in france though... but super close to the border
Hey! Great video! I really love watching your videos for tips, tricks and often times just relaxing!
I have a kinda weird question: I am planning on recording my via ferrata tour this year, so I bought an action cam just for this reason. I have no experience in filming anything... Is it recommended to turn the electronic image stabilization on or off for via ferrata and rock climbing videos in general?
Always on.
Never knew judge Rinder was in to climbing 🧗♀️
BigMac 3008 lol 😂 im glad im not the only one that thought that.
Via FERRRRANTIC !!
Surely on the bridge would you not clip in to the wire above bridge not the bridge it's self? if the bridge collapses you are going down with it!
Surely. They did say they had no clue what they were doing ! xD
But it is more Save to be clipped in two Independent cables, isnt it?
@@Mitzbergatc are you aware that on every single viaFerrata in that area you have graphical explanation where to clip on?
I’ll have to have a go of this, never knew it existed!
Y’all should check out high lining, it’s a great addition to climbing
If the rope is horizotal, you can use something static. You will just fall a few cm
Didn’t you do an indoor via Ferr course at a climbing gym in the UK?
Never knew there was a name for this. Now I do.
What's the name of the Via Ferrata?
Bangelijk om te ondernemen.
Hi, what is the name of this ferrata? This does not look so difficult it looks like maybe C, or D grade.
Does not look hard at all
Hey guy's ! You forgot the last part of the via 😉
I wonder if there's anything like this in the UK
If you are into via ferrata, check Florac :) - you will love it.
Looks easy. Where's the video of you doing it without clips? How come no one else is there? Is this free to do?
How good where the guys who put the steps and metalwork in the rock?
“Its all about the size” he says......Hugo’s eyebrows jump.
what's making the audio dodgy is the cliche background "music".
Maybe it is because I rock climb, but it doesn't look that extreme. Easy holds, easy feet placement. You don't even need to wear climbing shoes. Am I missing something here?
great add you guys!
This looks fun 😍
where is this!?
How were your hands after that via ferrata 😂😂😂
Doesn't "girth hitching" remove 50% of the breaking strength of the lanyard? Why not use double locking carabiners instead?
You were dead scared 😂
Guys you should actually clip one of the carabina to the steps and one to the line. First of all it will prevent a big fall in case you fail it, secondly if the main cable collapse you are dead. Also having a small carabina at the base of your equipment will provide you a nice rest on the via Ferrara , especially at the end (guys why did u give up?)
great video
2:30 you clipped in wrong. The gates on the carabiners need to be opposing.
Sorry guys, but the next time you try a Ferrata, use a guide ! Many things you have down wrong ! e.g. when you in the ferrata ALWAYS
strech your arms - your body must be away from the rock - (you ar climbers ? this is the FIRST rule) so that you have the maximum force
on the shoes !!!! Or the roped bridges - there you MUST also strech your arms, then you are fine , always use special VF gloves ....
i'm 58 and i do VF fpr about 15 years in Austria/Tyrol wbr and good luck and fun Reinhard
You sound so arrogant. They are very good rock climbers with lots of experience. Maybe they didn't do everything exactly the way you have been taught but they were careful and safe.
What a pumper!
Leather gloves guys. That metal sliver off the cables will trash your hands.
When climbing ladders you can take one carabiner off and place it on the rungs. That way if you fall you won’t slide all the way back down the ladder
You apologized for the river noise but you needed to apologize for the shit music.
C’est la via ferrata de la station thermale à Saint-gervais !! Une des plus dures de france . Je l’ai faite au complet ( les 3 parties ) en septembre 2018. Les 2 premières parties sont normales. Mais la 3eme partie est tuante !! Par contre vous n’avez pas fait la 3eme partie !!
LOL if that is Chamonix's "most extreme via ferrata" then u guys had better get off to Spain LOL
Why did i think the thumbnail said lockdown. Clearly this lockdown is getting to me.
Pretty sure you should clip the biners in opposite ways,
Doesn't matter with these ones, the opposite way thing was so you didn't get gates rubbing each other and opening
@@DanOutdoorsUK ok cheers.
via ferata "bukit kelam" in west Borneo, Indonesia 🇲🇨.
Man I bet that route took a long time to build
it seemed really really easy to me until the rope traverse
If you keep your feet in line with the wire that would have been a lot easier and you would have been more stable
I'd love to do this route. Anyone any idea where I'd start?
saint Gervais park.
isn’t better to hook 1in the bars? it’s safer if you fall maybe don’t have to fall all the way down to the next wire hook
Technically, it might be safer, but so much slower and has much more possibilities to make errors.
Ils ont pris l'echappatoire, ou bien ils ont aménagé autrement la sortie
I think saying "you shouldn't fall on a via Ferrata" isn't really good enough. Safety gear shouldn't just save your life, it should also prevent injury as best as possible. If this was how people treated climbing, no one would ever climb a hard route
It is not Chamonix but Saint Gervais mont Blanc.
What was the route called????
John Smith www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettersteig/via-ferrata-du-parc-thermal-saint-gervais/
I’d love to do this
Bro the one at the Brevent is waaaaayy scarier
Is that the three or so ladder thing almost to at the top near the cable car? I think because that is just a bit you’d do with usually a big rucksack on and if youve walked up from chamonix you’re tired with no climbing kit it’s sketchy but doable
just fyi, there is a T in via ferrata 😂
But this is not a Via Ferrata, this is an Adventure Park