Testing for No Drain error code on Washing Machine Pump Motor
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- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Here are a couple of other tests I couldn’t find on RUclips that you can use to test how well your pump motor is working before you go buy a new one. My replacement lasted one year then the new one only for a week before getting the error code ND on a Samsung washer. As you will see, the pump works fine and now I’m stuck. If anyone else has an idea post a comment so we can all learn. Thanks.
Love how you overdrive the drain pump! My pump is running but ........ No code! Machine does not spin! Bought new Hull sensor, Nope! Swap Stator/Sator was not, it drives me nut!
I had the same problem so I figured I would check why it’s not getting power and I found a broken wire. So I spliced it back together and it’s fixed.
Double thumbs up !! Test it under load!! In other words hook it up and run it.
It can test good resistance through the windings and still not run.
Great video, I am having the same problem and showing positive continuity so I figured my pump was good, but its not.
Thanks for sharing your ideas
Glad it helped. Just trying to pay it forward. All the best.
Thanks a ton. I'm looking into why mine is having the same problems. Your video was quite helpful.
Good one mate , you’re a legend
You have to go into your diagnostics mode and reset the washer to clear any codes that are stored.
JANIE, How do you do that, I.e. put it into diagnostic mode?
Thanks for the info, did you ever figure out what was wrong with it?
My Samsung is 14 years & has had a few problems over the years. I'm getting a no drain error. Cleaned out pump & all hoses, but it still won't pump a head higher than about 6" instead of 3'. I think the pump has seen better days.
Thank you for the Info, great Video!
Find any relay contacts to clean up on the control board?
I check the hole machine pump by checking solenoid and the fan, I was having the same problem, I found that it kept on blocking the system because there was a material between the barrel and the drum. That worked. hoped that helped
Very clear an helpful instructions. Thankyou
Just for those reading this who are inexperienced... unless you know well basics of electrical safety DO NOT make your own extension cord adapter with a 120VAC outlet, even with the switch you could easily injure or kill yourself or start a fire. At the very least DO NOT connect or disconnect the cord from the pump while the cord is plugged into the wall, even with the switch off.
do you know where can I get an extension cord with switch ? i need it to test a washer drain pump?
What if the pump is not receiving the 120 volts to operate from the control system?
Are there locations on the Main PCB that can be tested for this voltage?
Sound like it’s your control board. If you can find your text sheet and go to the pens on your control board, put it in drain and spin. Make sure your control board putting out 120 V but what you just did it’s kind of telling me that it’s a control board because you’re putting 120 V to the pump and it’s working. And that wire goes to your control board because you could also try to see if you have a bad wire from your control board to your pump
I wired the pump like you did and it worked fine. I have a Kenmore 110 washer. I checked the machine connection and it was 119 V on the multimeter either when the washer was manually set to pump or cancelled in standby. When ever plugged in the pump connection had power. The rigged power wire had 120V, the machine 119 all the time and pump did not go. What gives? Thanks.
So can I run a power and ground from a male extension cord end into battery inverter and touch them to drain pump terminals to power it for test? No neutral needed coming from green screw on my extension male end
great! my one i found the drain motor faulty by tak tak tak sound :-)
I just fix my washer I followed all the steps in the video and everything was good, what I find out it was a bad connection I just cut the connection and plies the wires and I put them together and fix the problem
Awesome. Glad it helped. I’m just trying to pay it forward a little. RUclips has got me out of a pinch several times. 👍
Bro thank you so much
No problem. Trying to pay it back to the community
What was the final trouble shoot. My suggestion would be to take a voltage probe reading (backprobe) on the switch plug at 2:32 start tracing back
First replace it, test it. I like it.
I’m curious what ended up being the problem. Was it a bad connection, bad board, or something else?
@@TMerica199 don’t think I ever got to the bottom of it. That was 6 years ago. It was already pretty old so we just got a new one. 🤪
@ I just got replacing my drain pump and it’s working like a charm. Only took an hour
Awesome!! Feels good when you can save serious cash doing it yourself.
Thanks for sharing that's the issue I am having right now the pump only works intermittently.
For example ND error code will pop up and when I press the start button it will erase the code and the pump will work again and that continues to be repeated over and over again with almost every load.
Did you find out the issue?
I was thinking maybe the board?
Did you figure it out, was it the control board?
I replaced my pump and I'm still having issues. It works fine for a load or two then just all of a sudden says it's not draining. I stop and try to start again but it still won't work. If I disconnect the power for a bit, try it again and it works just fine...for a bit. I'm guessing when I disconnect the power it's erasing the error memory or something and that's why it works again.
Very helpful! Thankyou!
I have the same issue with my Samsung Flex Washer Model WV60M9900AV. The tech tested the voltage of the drain pump and it was a correct voltage and said the board was not sending the correct voltage. I replace the board via ebay (since it’s no longer manufactured by Samsung) but it still not draining. When I turn on it makes a sound and there’s a delay and stays in the 11 minutes. When I run the diagnostics it stops at 7 (draining cycle) and shows the SC code. Do you think I should replace the pump and cut the connection and plies the wires together?
Is there a name for that type of external power cable you used? This is a great video. I’d like to test my pump before I spend $100 on a new one. I’d prefer the plug with the switch on it too, so that it doesn’t turn on as soon as I plug it in.
Any power cable will work. Just cut the end that doesn’t go into the wall.. strip the wires and attach the connectors
@@chrisbecker606 what type of connectors are those? What size?
@@kennyrichard1167 I think they are called spade connectors. They clamp onto what ever wire (lamp cord) that you want to use. You can get them at Home Depot, or any ace hardware. Just take the pump motor with you to get the right size. Crimp on with a pare of pliers.
@@jimlelan4906 thank you very much. Happy holidays
And that black rubber grommet gets stuck too. Make sure that is not stuck closed
Thanks
The primary or main control board is probably not sending power to the drain pump because is is faulty, or the wire harness that connects from the control board to the pump is frayed, broken or there's a loose connector from all the drum knocking and swaying that occurs from a heavy wash load. The wire harness is a pain to replace and costs less than replacing the main control board. If you can get a hold of known good parts then you can swap out to do a process of elimination. If you speak with Samsung, you can find out if there's a recall on your machine, and they may replace the control board as part of recall repairs. Also, you may get an extended warranty for 1 year from the date of the recall repairs.
Mark Youneva, thanks for the tips; very good information to have. That’s one thing I didn’t check.
be carefull sometimes under test the pump may look good ( the resistance and powering /spining it)
but the wire are weak when the pump is sucking it means under load the pump behaving differently and may fail to work so the solution is to change with new pump
Having same issue with washing machine. ( Kenmore 110.21302010 ) I pulled the pump out, did the same test. Put it back in, and it came on, then stopped. I wiggles the wires and it started working. I narrowed it down to a specific spot. Cut it, but it looked fine. Put it back together and it wont come on at all. The motor says 120V on the side. Looks like it is getting 30VAC. It's about 10 years old. Could be the relay on the control board as well. Carbon I'm sure has built up some switch 120V for 10 years. Will be cutting the relay apart to check it next.
Jumpered out the relay and the issue still present. Found another bad wire connection on bottom plug for a switch.
@@tsunami4779 Jason, my washer, Samsung model wf448aaw/xaa, is experiencing the same thing. only getting ~30VAC at the pump when it's commanded on. checked the circulation pump and it's getting the full 120VAC. Any thoughts on the voltage drop to the Drain Pump? Thank you
Do the positive or negative terminals matter when performing this test on the drain pump?
from the functional perspective the pump will most likely work, it is alternating current (AC) therefore no negative or positive, it will be live or neutral. From the safety perspective is a big YES, it does matter.
Does polarity matter? How do you know which is the hot and neutral?
If I am correct, for AC voltage it does not matter. If the pump takes 120v as the video shows, then it does not matter, but do verify with others.
The only thing polarity would do is control which way the motor spins. It's either going to spin clockwise or counterclockwise.
My meter read 11 ohms. I assume the pump is bad?
HOW/WHERE do we get a power cord to connect to the pump? It’s not like we’re all electricians and can make what you made. No appliance repair shop will help me.
What is the name of the manual switch you used? My husband would like to get one.
That was actually just one of those simple switches I took off an old lamp or something.
But something like this on Amazon for $5 would work awesome. a.co/d/9kztegw
@@purtnearperkins What model/name is the Manual Switch you used at @02:46 in the video?
How do you know which is hot wire?
It is not polarity concious as it is AC Voltage (Alternating Current)
@@willwalker2672 polarity conscious, lol. I've got to remember that one.
tnx l lot big like
On my pump, N and L are not marked. How can I tell which way to connect it?
Thank you!
Hi Mike - my pleasure. Just trying to help someone else out. RUclips has gotten me out of a few predicaments. Hope you get yours working.
@@purtnearperkins Thanks for the info! Would a reading of 11.2 ohm mean that pump has gone bad?
Christian Osborne Hello, I’m afraid that steps just outside the realm of my capability.
What was wrong with it?
If you contact Samsung- they will automatically reset the mother board in the washer thru the phone! That’s your issue!
Do you have a contact number?
Definetley the computer maybe a relay broke...
Why my Samsung washing machine has two drain pumps
When you connected the load test does pos/neg matter?
Positive/Neutral didn’t matter on the switch side.
yout water level hose might be pluged... try to blow it
how did you do the two pieces? you bought them? what are they called? haha i tried to test it but just by holding the two wires i cut...
Thanks.
Was the main circuit board the problem?
Its not giving volts to the drain pump
Main board?
Did you make or buy those wires to test the motor?
Just made them from pieces I had in the shop.
Did you ever figure out
Control panel?
run factory reset on your unit
You didnt mention whether u used that made up lead direct to mains which would bec240v or an adjustable voltage supply ? Thanks
We're 120v in the us
@@ashley-GX3 ah 0f course thanks
Your connection is bad on the cord not on the pump
The hose
Relay
Ever figure out what it was? Working on my pump now
It’s been so long I can’t recall. I should have done a follow up edit. We did get rid of them some time ago. Good luck with your diagnosis.