Washing machine pump teardown.
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Although it's rare for pumps in front loading washing machines to fail, they do occasionally clog up and then the machine may throw up an error code because it couldn't drain within a set time.
In most machines it's easy to access the sump filter from the front of the machine from behind a pop-off kick plate. Note that when the sump cover is removed all remaining water in the machine will pour out of it. Make sure that the seal is correctly seated when putting it back in.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.co...
This also keeps the channel independent of RUclips's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty.
The most important design element of this pump is that the rotor of the electric motor is on the other side of a non-magnetic barrier [the plastic cylinder around which the electromagnet poles were clamped] so that there is no need for a fancy seal on the shaft of the motor. Yes, the rotor and its bearings are immersed in the fluid being pumped - this provides cooling. This design was a top secret invention of the WW2 American Manhattan Project, the so-called 'seal-less' pump, used for circulating gaseous uranium hexafluoride without risk of the radioactive material leaking from a shaft seal. Very clever idea, and now used in many routine applications as shown here.
3:16 - "They seem to be getting popular again...strange." Not strange..I have a feeling your videos are partly behind the sudden rise in popularity.
haha how did you guess :)
"Smells like tea"... Well it IS from a washing machine that was likely operated in the UK...
Over the pond here everything taste like chicken, prolly simelar to, smelling like tea.
@@johndro3014 I o
@@johndro3014 ok i
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That “little” port is for spray function when washing clothes using another similar motor. I think it helps distribute water and detergent mix more evenly. Some Electrolux washers have this.
The smallest port is for small hose drain, channelling water to a small bucket or tray when the filter needed cleaning, so the water don’t spill on the floor when you open the filter’s door.
Thanks for posting the video anyway, very helpful!
Thank you for having a video for the obscure answers that are exactly what I needed, and not for the first time.
A pre drain hose goes on the smaller one, allows ya to drain out all water before ya unscrew the filter and the flap helps stop back syphon on drain hose
HDXFH you *hope* your machine has the pre-drain hose. Ours doesn’t. And is, interestingly, one with an integrated dryer. So that could be why, I suppose.
yes thats what i was going to say saves a lot of flooding
What he said
correct
are ya aussie? just curious
The slight resistance you get when you manually turn the impeller is the built in anti tangle feature. If the pump feels any resistance it will go into reverse to try and free itself from anything that may be obstructing the impeller. Quite a clever but simple design feature 👌 😀
Clive, you need a pair of huge slotted screwdrivers called "Brute Force" and "Ignorance"
Should rewrite this title "washing machine pump smelldown".... Tea, really? What do you normally drink Clive, Jasmine Tea? Cause undoubtedly that crust is probably hard water deposits w a smidge of scented soap thrown in. Here's hoping your next cup of tea doesn't smell like the inside of a washing machine!
Maybe fromunda tea, scented with detergent?
That gunk is a combination of residual detergent, water deposits, and filth that has been washed out of clothes.
Joe Camel: Funny icon. I've got a bunch of Camel Zippos and ashtrays still from when that was my brand.
Doesn't look very filthy and obviously that's leakage into the pump so bigger bits can't get in. I still couldn't believe how quickly Clive smelled it. Ick!
It's definitely filthy... Some of the worst smells I've ever experienced were from washing machine pumps. That said, if you don't overdo it with the detergent, the smell won't be nearly as bad.
I remember a pleasant smell I smelled as a kid when smelling the rubber seal between the drum and the door
How timely! My interest in electronics has been reignited thanks to your videos. And just last week I fixed our washing machine which uses the same pump module you’re pulling apart here.
BTW, one of the those forward outlets is for drainage. When you unscrew the big insert a bit it releases water in to the front of the housing and out through the foremost spigot. In mine it's attached to a rubber hose that is pulled out the front by the access door.
I find that you are very comical when you take things apart. I don't know why, but I chuckle. Educational and funny.
but what about your friend in America you mentioned at the start??
What happened?
I can't sleep until i know...
Ah, I got distracted as I usually do. He took most of his machine apart to try and get to the pump to clean it out.
Eeew it's wet... other peoples yuk!!
he says it's from ebay
egh crusty bits *stick finger in it* classic bigclive
*SNIFF* "Smells like tea."
Jesus clive...
I've repaired white goods for years and they're not made how they used to be! The modular parts allows the prices to be very low - £200 for a half decent new washing machine is unreal. They were once far more than that and add inflation etc..
What I will say about machine failures now is it's mostly the plastic components - your vid showed a lug failure.
I know for sure that plastic should outlive the machine itself but for some reason the plastics they use in them fails early. It's as if they've engineered in failure rates. Surely a manufacturer wouldn't stoop as low as to engineer their goods to fail when they shouldn't?
Yes the coil - can be swapped for various world voltages.
Hey, I'm a service engineer too. My experience seems weirdly different to yours. I'd say plastic failure was fairly rare. Most commonly I see bearing/spider failure (on newer machines usually), relays burning out, blockages (obviously) and electrical components failing. Plastic breaking is mostly on the buttons and door handles, I'd say I see that about once a month.
You're so clear and orderly with how you describe your process, the parts and function
I love watching BCDC's videos, because things are either "strange", "interesting", "impressive" or "not good". I've actually learnt quite a lot over the last 2 years, I enjoy how he draws electronic schematics and explains them (not in this vid obviously). I also like the vids when he's messing with high voltage......and drinking beer.
Service engineer here. That pump wasn't going to last long. Once you've got water through that seal (or smelly gunk) it's days are numbered. I usually give them a shake, if there's water sloshing around it's time for a new one
The outer section with the crud (solidified detergent) was not sealed well, but the centre motor rotor was sealed OK.
Every single one of the pumps in laundry I took care of leaked into that area and they will run for a long time actually. The failure is not because it is full of water , it is because of all the crud helps wear out the bearings . I was always surprised how long they worked considering they were always flooded and gunked up around the magnets. You would think they could design a seal that worked to keep that area dry but I never saw one that wasn't full or water around the magnets.
I changed out lots of those pumps on my job taking care of laundry at a college. That seal always leaks and the magnet is always full of disgusting stinky glop. The motor runs even with that area flooded. And the thing that fails on them is usually the shaft where the impeller is attached wears out so the impeller gets all wobbly and starts making noise. Also what happens is either coins get in and plug up the inlet , or stuff like hairpins can work their way into the impeller . Though that was the older style pump that did not have that filter on it - those are nice and catch a lot of stuff that used to get into the impeller. And yes you aways have to pry hard to get that coil off - I used to just put them in the vice and whack them with a hammer cause they were already junk anyway and I just recycled the copper and metal . As you said there is no repairing those unless it is just plugged - otherwise you replace when they get worn out . The coil never fails . I always kept those magnets - they are useful for other things. Oh and the commercial washing machines had 5 year parts warranty so for five years when ever pump fails - free to put in a new one .
Useful video Clive.
Mum's 1971 AEG washing machine is still going, has been in use since purchase. Only new part fitted was a replacement drum lower hose, this was just a few years ago. AEG still stocked them (not cheap!). The main motor in this machine is an induction motor, more reliable than the universal motors that are supplied with most machines, other than top of the range ones.
Having said how good the old AEG is, it'll probably fail now!
The video is over a year old but you've just helped me fix my washing machine! Thanks Big Clive 👍
You're welcome. Happy to help.
Funny as hell that of all the videos I have watched of yours, I came across this one today. Replaced my washing machine pump motor about 2 hours ago.
We used to have a front loader with this kind of pump in it. I had to replace it at one point because a coin got stuck in it and chewed up the impeller. The whole washer ended up only lasting about 8 years before the tub support fell apart. We now have a 30 year old top loader that was given to us. much more reliable lol
womens hairpins love getting down and getting caught up in the impeller
I liked the idea of the quick test, but when I looked it up online it was way too expensive, so I made my own out of wood. I even put the little neon indicator on it and everything. Not counting materials I already had on hand, it only cost me 50 cents.
"Everything" includes a hidden switch inside the wood. When pulled up it goes unpowered. A lot of old small fuseboxes were like this. Ave put out a vid, gotta split!
Yes, at over $50 on eBay, they are rather pricey. I'm surprised the Chinese haven't made any knock-offs - although I haven't checked in a few months. Hmm ...
I just use Wago 221 series connectors + usually end sleeves
Yes, the price is ridiculous. Its just a folding plastic lid with wire connections. It can't cost that much to manufacture. If I had a 3D printer, I'd design and make my own.
Can you upload a photo/video of your DIY one and link to it please.
£35 is the VAT inclusive (or £30 ex.VAT) price in the U.K. if bought from CPC cpc.farnell.com/cliff-electronic-components/cl1853/quicktest-block-with-1-5m-lead/dp/PL10638?st=Quicktest
It always amazes me how simple and low cost they can make things like these
Maybe you could leave a link in the description that links to the Quick Test Clive??
There's a dedicated video about it with links.
Andrew Petrie
Here’s the link to BC’s video on it...
ruclips.net/video/_DTmL73th7Y/видео.html
1:11 a useful little wrinkle, taught to me by an experienced serviceman: Tilt the machine backwards against the wall before unscrewing the filter trap. Then clear it, replace the trap, and you don't have water pouring anywhere.
I actually had a sock stuck once in the filter. And the washing machine was completely full with water when I found out what the filter is and opened it. Wish I saw your video a year ago! :D
Thought Clive was going to go into Electroboom territory for a moment there. But somehow he managed to avoid it.
This is so weird. I just got a new washing machine pump delivered for my machine today.
the blanked off spout that looked like it had 2 holes in it was used in older Indesit machine to drain the water from the door seal. it was blanked off as it used to block with the usual crap in washing machines & needed cleaning often, so it was deleted i'd say about 15years ago when Indesit used metal outer drums. the rubber bit reduces the 'chug' when the pump is empty & helps eliminate airlocks. the version you have there is a watercooled pump hence the side bits eitherside the windings & the water inside.. interestingly I've found that they go noisy more that the nonwatercooled, more room for the crud to get into the 'clutch' of the impeller/magnet maybe?
That was a super impression of a pump! Brings back memories of when I was an appliance repair bloke.
"an impression of a pump". wasn't it a real pump ;-)
2:44 That smaller hole would be connected to a small straw and it will be used to drain the water sitting in the pump, rather than it flooding out when you remove the large filter cover (usually on higher end washing machines). Also the washing machine drum exit will have a small ball in it. It will drop to let water out but if water enters the drain hose the ball will float, stopping the water from entering the drum for the drain hose.
You need a green mat for when you do your AVE'ish releasing of the schmoo ;)
The last one I took apart had a magnetically coupled impeller (i.e. the impeller on the pump side was just floating with no bearings / no direct coupling to the electrical side) It was actually a very clever idea. In my case, the impeller was completely jammed up by some string that got lodged in it, but you could heat that the motor on the rear side was still turning freely without damage, I imagine that would be a very long life pump, with no seals to go bad and no negative effects on the motor from the impeller stalling
I've worked on this stuff and that is a very common design used on almost all washers and dishwashers now at least in the US. What usually happens is the seal between the rotor and housing wears out. Water (and lovely essences) migrate back into the magnet compartment. Also the impeller breaks off form the shaft, usually from an item getting caught in it. Result it runs but doesn't pump,
Recently I replaced the very same pump on my 10-year-old washing machine. It's awesome when you can find replace parts for your machine after this long time.
'Ullo, Clive, got a new motah?
The holes in the bubber flap is to allow air out. These pumps dont work when air is inside.
Have you ever thought about putting your multimeter on the terminals ? And spin the impeller just to see how much voltage is created ? After all it's laid out like a antique telephone magneto , only in reverse. I'd be interested in seeing just how much energy that pump could produce. Thanks
Funny thing. I replaced the waste-water-pump in my washing-machine last week. It looks very similar. I got the replacement from ebay. :-)
I disassembled mine together with yours. The only significant difference is a thermo-fuse in my motor.
Also it's very interesting how the windigs are made. You can pull of the windig-pack and "flip" them together. this way a spooling-machine can simply wind up all the wire in one go. There are special tabs for the transition between both windings.
Interesting example of highly optimized production. Everything is reduced to the bare minimum. No skews and no glue. Every thing is held together with two clips.
9:50 - we passed "fixing the machine" at 5:40 we're now deep into "idle curiosity"
I enjoy your videos
Thank you so much for making this video! Our washing machine has been clogged for 2 months now, and after opening that cleaning slide there was an entire sock, along with some change and a nail file in there. No wonder it wasn't working! That fixed it right up though.
Now I know why my pump wont start up after gluing the impellor on!, Thanks Clive, great videos
As someone who scraps from the ppl who toss good stuff I understand the concept of patience when it comes to breaking parts. I feel your struggle getting that coil out.
Thanks, you saved my day! Without exaggeration, you saved my whole year!
Timely video. Our front load washer is fairly new so have not had the fun of replacing the pump. Ours has a drain hose so you can drain trapped water before removing the filter access port.
A few months ago the drain pump on our 10 year old Bosch dishwasher failed. The replacement pump was $72 US. Same type of permanent magnet motor as in your video. Water had gotten into the bearings and the thermo overload tripped. I'm surprised you did not find a thermo overload in the washing machine pump you took apart. The dishwasher was interesting as the pump mount was a simple rotate and clip, no fasteners involved.
Bearing leaks are a pretty common failure mode that is what killed the pump on our previous washing machine so I'd be leery about buying used parts.
I once repaired one of these pump motors many years ago. First time I used it, it set on fire and filled the kitchen with thick black smoke. Showing super human strength I pick the washer up and chucked the bugger still burning out the door. I have since stopped interfering with white goods.
Thanks for explaining so well why the impeller is not fixed to the rotor (at 10:59), but has some slack! That helped me realize that glueing the impeller to the rotor is not a viable fix really, as it would cause the pump to occasionally stall.
Thanks. Glad the video was useful. You should be able to buy a spare online.
Alternative title: "Man struggles with coils for 4 minutes"
One of the more useful accessories they can connect to the pump is a little rubber hose that you can pul, out the front and that allows you to drain water off gently, as opposed to “very carefully” trying to open the entire pump housing.
Yes, but is it as exciting?
bigclivedotcom I suppose you need to find excitement where you can, when you live in the Isle of Man!
(I have my washer freestanding, I usually just tilt it back in cases where I need to clear the pump. At least once I remember that’s the way to do it.)
Jasper Janssen the only excitement they get there is a bunch of 1000cc on two wheels, that are riden by the biggest balls on the planet...
but they need fresh big balls quite often if you know what I mean
I took care of a laundry and I made a pan with notch that would slide under the lip of that filter so you could unscrew and pull it so all the water and gunk ( they always stink ) would go into the pan instead of all over the floor. I had to clean those pump filters out two or three times a year .
wow, good explanation of impeller pumps, good to know that funny noise when my dishwasher starts to pump isn't a dying pump! (shouldn't be, since it's new)
Andy Plater well. Its drying the water from the drain lol
I always thought it's cool that it starts up like an engine or something.
In north america at least, some washing machines (used to?) come with a service manual in stuck inside that specifies the winding resistance. On a couple of occasions my washer has failed to drain due to a coin jamming the impeller, with no harm done to the pump. Presumably the stall current has to be at or below safe limits for the windings, or the spinning rotor contributes minimally to the effective impedance in such a synchronous motor.
Dave Myers most still do. Most appliances have a folded up booklet taped inside the housing that provides a schematic diagram, troubleshooting steps, specifications for testing parts, and a diagnostic flow chart. Hell, even $40 microwave ovens have them, even though almost nobody bothers with having those repaired. Although I did fix our microwave once with the help of the troubleshooting steps it provides. What had happened is a bowl exploded inside it- thousands of pieces. In the process, it blew the door open- and it's a positive latching door, where you have to press a latch button to open it. Anyhow, there's 3 safety switches, 2 normally open, one normally closed, and in order to prevent someone from defeating the safety interlock, they have to switch in the correct order, otherwise, it acts as a sort of crowbar circuit and short circuits the mains in wires, causing the internal fuse to blow as well as cooking the switch contacts. That repair sheet told me exactly what to do and what to replace.
Maybe the limiting factor is that you need a case big enough to shove the manual in? Forcing the fuse to fail with a dead short seems like a questionable 'safety interlock'.
ah, my washer broke and when I took it apart I noticed an empty re-sealable plastic bag stuck to the side
I was wondering why
now i'm wondering why the service manual is missing
what sucks is I cannot find it online either :(
+David Scheiber I repair them for a living. Once when I looked under a customer's machine I found the plastic bag that's used to cover a new machine, stuffed inside the workings.
I had one out of the pouch the other day, the customer took it before i was done and filed it away with her manual. Good luck to the next guy who needs to do diagnostics, if it's not me and i forget she took it.
i made a windmill from one of them, the motors are very good generators and will give a very high pulsed voltage even at low rpm
I was just thinking about making one. Do you remember how many volts and amps it made?
clive quickly stopped the video so he could get high on those aged bath salts he retrieved from the pump
I removed and rinsed my GE washer water pump few times and removed sand that blocked spining, put it back on, and is working now just fine (it was not spinning nor draining), so I saved some money.
Hi Clive, the small aux. pipe out is for a drain pipe. Used on our Samsung machine.
Fancy as hell compared to a Kenmore direct drive washer pump.
I think the flap is perhaps just to help prevent the waste water flowing back into the drum between pump-outs?
The water is allowed to flow back in more slowly, so the bulk of water in the outlet pipe doesn't just flow straight back through the pump again when the motor stops.
(since the loose end of the waste pipe is often positioned higher than the pump end, and sometimes higher than the entire drum.)
I don't think the flappy valve would help keep the pump primed, but maybe?
I imagine you could do a secondary test by spinning the rotor and inducing voltage across the coils.
Good description I am using the exact pump on my Fishtank as an emergency pump Nice one
they have refined that over the years, the wonky pump i bodged a repair on an old washer relied on seals to keep the motor dry, and did not have that starting loose spinner design or a filter at all
Oh I loved this video! I am just as curious, and just can't stop 'taking it to bits'. I think it would have worked good enough if I were to have unclogged the eaten up terry,.. but NOO I had to see everything! Thank you for sharing! I really wish I video taped my ' I can use this for something' 2-ton printer dismantle. My mother in law still hates me every time she sees the stains on her garage floor,wall and, yes ceiling! Andi Stewart
Hey Big C, interested in a Hardi 14412 fuel pump?
It has a little circuit board in it and works with up/down motion.
It doesnt work, but i think its an easy fix.
Grtz
The small rubber flap was added to quieten down / damp out the pulsing sound that all washing machine pumps used to make once the outer drum (tub) was empty. All machines from 10 years ago and prior would make this strange noise once the water had fully drained. Simple reason behind this was because there would be a small amount of water left in the drain hose. This would travel up the hose in a small 'lump', however the pump didn't generate enough pressure by means of 'air' pressure to push the last amount of water out the drain hose, thereby resulting in a lump of water that would be shot up the drain hose - not quite hard enough, then fall back down the hose and land inside the spinning impeller. This cycle would just repeat over, and over again until the pump stopped. Hence the pulsing noise. The small rubber flap with holes in was added to dampen out this noise by acting as a 'fall-back buffer' This flap in my machine broke off and ended up inside the pump. After retrieving it out of the filter, the pump works absolutely perfectly, but now has that 1980's / 1990's pulsating noise once the drum is has emptied - Nothing to worry about.. 🙂
Pond water pumps are similar interesting because that completely isolate the electrics from the water using sealed coils and an induction driven disk impeller. Such pumps are designed to handle dirty water with lots of solids in it. The pumps also deal well with a stalled impeller.
It’s hooked on by those little gray hooked post that go over the white plastic bumps on the back of the pump.
That rubber flap doesn't drained water to slush back when pump stops suddenly. So that dirty water doesn't enter the drum. But holes allow water level equalization.
Super Dooper Clive .
luv watching your destructive bear dis- Assembly routines ...
That little flap valve is known as a backflow preventer or anti-siphon valve!
It's odd that it has holes in it.
I agree usually back flow or antisiphon valves or flaps usually do not have holes in them, maybe they do that to let air get out if it gets stuck in there, the machine is churning up water mixing with air. A supply line generally do not mix the water with air.
The drain stack on the washer would be left full to the tits if it didn't have holes in it.
I would have thought it’s some anti-cavitation feature.
I had to replace one recently. I saved the old one thinking I could make use of the motor... thanks for the info.
You could do video about the defrost timer found in fridge freezers. Started to find ice in the back of the freezer and it wasn't that cold anymore (soft fish fingers). After removing all the ice twice (with the help of hair dryer) decided to Investigate. Found a wire attached to the cooling serpentine, understood it was a heating element to melt the ice, followed the cables to the back (where compressor is) and found it connected to a timer (8 hours timer). Said timer it's tiny mains motor with gears and every 8 hours or so, changes the Live from the compressor to the Heating element. Bought s generic timer from eBay for £4 and fridge freezer has been working ok for the last 4 years !
It's kind of amazing how reliable refrigerators are. Mine is almost 30 years old, and the only thing I've ever had to change was the icemaker, because the release heater failed. Oddly, the Amazon replacement was almost exactly the same design, but had a different connector. Oh well, easy enough to fix with a bit of solder and heat shrink.
I think that flapper on the flow out port might be to help the pump take initial prime. Once primed and at full efficiency the flapper is simply pushed aside. Those impellers can act funny at startup, I used to have to prime them on old turret lathes to get the coolant system flowing (yes, impeller system pumps).
My Candy washing machine pump doesn't have a plastic cover over it, just rusty laminations! 😂😂😂
"Eeew it's wet." "Eeeew, oh, ooooh." "crusty bits." Smells like tea." "That's not a good result." "Eah,oh,eeew, ew."
Can you explain more how the electro-magnetic field interacts with the permanent magnet. A drawing of the field would be appreciated.
those extra ports i would say are for water level indicator or door interlocks.
most washing machines have a vacuum operated diaphragm switch for the door locks
This was a really useful article as my washing started leaking again. Last time it was the drain pump. Sadly, this time the door seal has perished - not bad for a 19 year old machine to last this long.
The door seals are not that complex to change on some models. It might be worth looking on RUclips to see if there's a video that covers your model. It's often a single rubber sleeve retained by two spring tensioned wire loops.
Now the question is would Calgon have cleared that crap from inside!
At least I know what our washing machine pump looks like now if it ever breaks! Thanks :)
Other ports are for pumping water from the tub into the softener and bleach trays. It allows it to mix water with those products while the tub has water in it. It's either done when the water is filling the tub or when the wash cycle is running.
The UK machines use solenoid valves for that and use the main water supply to add the detergent and softener as the machine is filling.
So do washing machine pumps in the USA not have a port on the front for clearing blockages?
Some apparently don't. A friend had to disassemble his machine to clean the pump.
bigclivedotcom Unfortunately, electronics and appliances are throwaway items here. I do TV repair and they really aren't designed for servicig either.
If you build something for servicing, you can throw efficiency out the window. unless you greatly increase the price.
They use to be. My 15 year old washer and dryer can be serviced (I know I do it every time) and I just tonight replaced the ignitor in my dryer for the first time, 20 minutes R&R and $18 part.
Most do. Same crap chinese parts used worldwide. Almost all have cleanouts now.
My Miele WT945 has the pump which slots into the back of the outlet/filter housing without any hose connections to the actual pump mechanism. All the pipes are to the Filter housing making the pump just a twist and release part with the water seals being part of the electric pump mechanise.
Our new Mantra: "Take-it-to-bits" "Take-it-to-bits" "Take-it-to-bits"
Here's my thought on the rubber 'non return' flap... the flexible pipe coming out of the pump normally comes out the back of the machine at the bottom then goes up to discharge into a higher level pipe behing (or under) the sink... what you sometimes hear after the drum empties is a slug of waste water bouncing up and down in the vertical hose till the pump switches off. I guess the flap slows the backflow down enough to stop that happening - probably it prolongs the life of the impeller blades and reduces the annoying noise.
I would guess that the little flappy rubber valve in the pump is there to just provide enough resistance to back flow when it switches off to prevent any loud gurgling noises.
It would also make the speed that water drains out a bit more manageable if you need to open it up to clear a blockage.
G'day, Clive! Wow! I really enjoyed seeing your hole process of taking, this washing machine pump to bits! Thank you so much for not simply giving up, or abandoning all hope, in disassembling this pump! Nice job! By the way, haha! [thats humorous] The inside of this pump smells like tea! Lol!! Well done!
Cheers! :-)🛠😊❤️
I would suggest, that You should be explaining the inner workings on the hudraulic side, the innder workings of the pumps, also dig deeper into the purpose of that semi-chceck valve.
I am waiting for the video where he builds his own washing machine out of all the parts he has taken to bits.
IMPORTANT. You forgot the most important and wierd bit.
So these pumps almost never burn out but they have an odd desese.
The impeller falls off and i looked online no one seem to know how to re attach them.
So you forgot to take the impeller off.
As i seen all what holds it in place is some mineral oil and an O ring. (Vaccum holds it)
Once the minerql oil washes out slowly the impeller falls off and then noone understands what is missing as nothing is broken.
When i took apart aworking pump the impeller was attached with such a force that it would be unbelievebe thats its just vaccum.
Nothing seemed to break and once re applying babyoil i could re attach the impeller back (no oil impeller just falls)
I would be happy if u continue the video figuring out exactly how its made and whats the best way to repair :)
The drive pin broke in mine. Now it's $60 to replace a $0.20 pin!
And it looks like there's really no way to get the permanent magnet out once that pin is broken. It looks like it's trapped behind a nylon (Maybe? It's white and has that nylon, "look," to it.) ring that is pressed in and there is just no way to get ahold of that ring without destroying it.
I'm guessing that hair was the culprit. It's about seven years old and I imagine that seven years of resistance from hair being wrapped around the drive pin shaft every time it ran just took its toll finally. The impeller came off with part of the pin still in it and I can easily see where it's sheared off.
Damn! How annoying!
I changed a similar pump a few years ago (Hotpoint make machine), the windings had shorted causing it to overheat and melt the grey plastic housing so that it leaked water.
Ave would have told us the plastic. ;)
Also off the pump there's often a short large pipe. That acts as a sump, for heavy pump damaging objects. Such as we have in our pockets, pound coins, nuts etc.
It's the first thing anyone collecting old machines goes for.
A common problem with these type of washing machine pumps is they stop clearing water from the machine, even though the pump can be heard to run. Taking the impeller housing off the pump, look at the shaft of the impeller, there is often a thread wrapped round the impeller that stops the motor getting the impeller up to speed, the other problem is it tries to start off with the impeller turning due to a thread from fabric being wrapped around the shaft and it is not fit to turn it as the thread is jamming it. Remove the thread from the pump impeller shaft and the cost of a pump has been saved. It would surprise you just how often this happens and some repairers that are not to honest will remove the thread and charge you for a new pump. It is not hard to get the pump out to have a look, bit awkward to get the clips off, but that is the hardest bit. Remember to turn off the power, might appear obvious, but people don't always follow common sense things!
Well, I'm confused now. Several comments say that the magnetic rotor is normally immersed in water to cool and lubricate it and some say that the pump will fail if water gets into the rotor chamber. Who's telling porkies? Was there a seal between the impeller and the rotor? I don't think that a permanent magnet rotor in a synchronous motor needs to be cooled. It does need to be lubricated but water isn't a very good lubricant, so I'm told.
LG front load washer (in US) have a tube to drain the filter before opening.
It always gets me when nasty surprise stuff smells like something innocuous and random.
The inside of that pump is disgusting. You say drain pumps are quiet. The drain pump in my washing machine is very noisy. Always a loud 50hz buzzing, especially when all the water has been drained. It still works fine and isn't blocked. Any way to make it quieter?
You sure that the bulk of the sound isn't coming from the floor waste? I have a dishwasher that makes a lot of noise when it drains into the waste pipe under the sink next to it. Just putting the plug into the sink above cuts the bulk of that noise down. I've covered the floor waste in the laundry room for much the same reason, although my washing machine isn't as noisy as the dishwasher.
The pumps will get really noisy when the rod that holds on the impeller gets worn out and starts wobbling around. If you pull the hose off and stick your finger in you can wiggle it and feel the slop. When the pump gets really loud it is time to get a new pump for when the old pump fails which will happen eventually depending on use. But the noise you hear could also be a solenoid buzzing . Those make noise like you describe and is sort of normal - though a new solenoid might be quieter might not also .
The one way resrictor is there to stop you flooding the floor when the drain hose is lowered below the drum level. It drains slowly
Haha, I was beginning to wonder how the hell the black part under the impeller would seal properly and then you opened it xD
The tiny hose is the lowest point in the washer and allows you to drain every drop of water before removing the filter. The medium hose is one I've never seen.
The smaller drain port on the bottom (under the filter housing), at least on my washer (by LG), goes to a tube in the front panel, so you can drain the excess water into a tray before opening the filter.