I watched this video several months ago and commented. I received a notice today that someone liked my comment so I came back to the video to refresh my memory. In doing so I noticed something I missed previously. That being that you are using the saw left handed. That affects the "hang' of the saw. That alone could be leading to your angled cut. Left handed use is also not recommended as it puts your body in direct line with the bar in the event of a kickback. See the "Holding and Controlling the Chainsaw" section on page 10 of your manual. You will find that Stihl does not recommend left handed operation.
Like everyone has said, flip your bar when you sharpen your chain and always keep your chain sharp. Don't obsess with keeping your cutters exactly the same length like many think you have too. Just make sure you keep your raker's or depth gauges set right. I run all Sthil pro series saws and the 261 is one of my favorite go to firewood saws. I find it hard to believe you blew one up if you were using good mixed fuel, even if the chain was dull and you did very little cutting with it. The 261 is no more prone to blowing up than any other saw as I'm around my Sthil dealer on a regular basis and have never heard any complaints like that. I run the snot out of mine and it has never missed a beat. Makes me wonder if you may have just gotten a bad one. Just one more thing, not trying to tell anybody what to do but it wouldn't be a bad idea to get yourself a good set of chainsaw chaps. Especially if your not real experienced with a saw. Things happen especially when your climbing around limbing downed trees. Been running a saw for the better part of 35 years and I can tell ya chaps saved my ass once. Plus their nice in the brush and if your lucky enough to have multiflora rose vines. By the way too, I love that tractor and grapple you have. I just got one last year and don't know why I waited so long.
I can tell from what you're saying that you know a thing or two! I am going to take your advice and get those chaps. You are not the first to mention it but you have convinced me. I hope and believe that. you are right, I think I must have got a lemon. Hopefully this one will have no problems at all. I promise you, I have been very sure that I have always filled up with the correct gas/oil mixture.The thing that makes me happy is you saying that the MS 261 C is your go to. It tells me that I made a good choice, just got a bad one but I should be good to go for now. Thanks on the tractor and grapple, loving them both! Merry Christmas and thanks for hanging out with me at The Lovely Place.
@@TheLovelyPlace The 261 has good power to weight ratio and unless I'm cutting big wood I find myself picking it up over my bigger saws. Just make sure you let it warm up for a minute like any saw before you start cutting and you'll be fine. There's nothing wrong at all with the two -n- one file, I use one every now and then but usually hand file or use my chain grinder. Glad I could help out. I'm no pro, just love running a saw, kinda my hobby you could say and have cut wood since I was a kid. Good talking to you. The 261 will make you a great saw, promise.
@@TheLovelyPlace You can forego getting the saw chaps if you want and get chainsaw pants instead. The pants are wayyyyy more comfortable. But get one or the other. Just my 2 cents.
Did i mention its a very stupid design.😊 no adjustments. It does it itself. All you got to do is picl the rigjt dsy of the rigjt month, at the right month, during the correct time of day, when tĥe planets all align right. Then, if your at the elevatiom, it might start. Well, have fun
Flip your bar upside down and see if it still cuts on an angle. If it still cuts crooked then it’s your chain. As others have said, when you file by hand it’s easy to get one side sharper than the other due to hand preference.
I own Stevenson tree service run all day long with stihl MS 261C-M never had any issues after each day our saws are cleaned chains sharpened air filters cleaned never had any issues. They run 5-7 days a week sometime 12 or more hours a day. Love the 261 great saw
I see a lot of comments mentioning the chain. That's possible, but in my experience, the primary cause of cutting at an angle is related to the bar. The bar groove wears over time or can wear prematurely from an over-tightened chain or excessive heat (from insufficient oiling or cutting with a dull chain). This causes the groove to angle out like a "V" (instead of being at a 90 degree angle), which causes the chain to cut at an angle. A pinched or warped bar can have a similar effect, but I think the groove issue is more likely. You can verify all these potential causes by close inspection of the bar. You can sometimes correct groove wear with a file or grinder, and I believe there is a guide in the user's manual. Keep the bar clean, the chain sharp, and make sure you have a small bit of slack in the chain when cutting to prevent premature wear. You may also want to ensure the chain oiler on the saw is working properly.
I have an MS261with a 20" light bar running 33RS3 chain with the traditional old school carb. It's my favorite saw. My second most favorite saw is my new MS400C. I've been using chainsaws off and on for 60 years. (I'm older than dirt.). I was pruning fruit trees with one in my youth. The fifties saws weren't nearly as nice as what we have now. To see if it's your chain, take it to the dealer and have them sharpen it on their machine. If it cuts straight, the bar isn't the problem, it's a problem with sharpening. I had the same angle cut problem with my 261. It cut straight after the dealer sharpened the chain. I stopped using the 2 in one sharpener and went back to the round file with the tin guide on it - a system I've been using like forever. Problem went away. Went back to the 2 in 1, problem returned. Now I just use the file with the tin guide. Then adjust the gage teeth using the file gage and a flat file. Unless you did it off camera, it didn't look like you warmed up the saw before you started cutting with it. That's a really good way to score the piston. Warming up the saw at slightly elevated idle for thirty to 45 seconds will protect from the cold engine piston scoring phenomena and assure you start with a well oiled chain. I can't believe you didn't wear protective chaps and a hard hat. I got away without them for 5 decades but I bought the first pair of saw chaps I saw for sale at the Stihl dealer. Look up the statistics on chainsaw injuries. There are over 30,000 serious chainsaw injuries a year. The average 'survivable' cut takes over a hundred stitches. I also have a saw optimized emergency medical kit on my belt with quick clot gauze and a toruniquet. I use a BRADCO grapple on an LS160 skid-steer for handling trees and logs. I agree, the grapple is a wonderful tool.
Seasoned cutter here and i Own and run the 261c for many years now excellent saw my go to never let me down just make sure you use 50:1 ratio oil to fuel mix check ur plug every so often refer to the service manual and always clean the filter most importantly a chainsaw is only as good as its chain is that its sharp when sharpening the cutters don't have to be perfect lengths or same lengths just make sure there sharpened in the same angle and your raker depth gauges are all filed down the same depth right around and you will be good its about maintenance over and over you simply take care of something and it will do its best taking care of you.
I have a Stihl 261C which is currently at the Stihl dealer because it was bogging down under load. It is the first time I have had any issues with it after 2 1/2 years with lots of hours on it. At one point in the past, I was sawing with a dull chain and heated up the bar significantly. I was afraid the heat may have caused the cylinder wall to become scored. Since it is easy to remove the muffler and check this, I did, and all looked ok. This was a really helpful video - thanks and good luck with your new 261C.
I just saw this. You are not alone on that type of MS261 failure! It’s supposed to be a professional saw! Most people are convinced the Mtronic system is running it too lean at times. Husqvarna had that problem with Autotune and ended up redesigning the 550xp with a totally different cylinder with more cooling fins. Stihl Ultra 2 cycle oil is the last oil I would choose and I would make sure to use ethanol free gasoline with your mix @ 40:1. Mtronic will adjust itself(or should). Check the owner’s manual on occasional reset procedures. Plenty of advice on here with sharpening, etc. I would look into an aftermarket guide bar such as Sugihara or Tsumura, they’re made from tool steel. 👍
As for you blowing up the first saw, I would advise you too not use premixed fuel; if that is what you used. Mix your own fuel at 40:1. I know Stihl recommends 50:1, but that does not provide enough oil to the piston and crank case. I have several Stihl saws and I have never had a problem, and I have never used 50:1.
If the rails of your bar are worn on one side of the chain groove more than the other you will cut in an arch, you can file or grind it back square. Caused by pushing down on the center of your top bar instead of as close to directly over clutch side as possible. I’m right handed so I hold as far to the clutch side as possible and apply push force with my left thumb on the curve of the handle. For a left hander slide your hand all the way to the right and apply downward force with your palm at the base of you pinky. Any downward force from the center or left side of the top bar will a crooked cut and wear the bar and chain and cut off to the side. The heat spot in the paint on the flywheel side of you shows friction and excessive friction and wear. Good luck to you and enjoy your saw I have 2 026 stihls myself and use them more than my bigger saws
If you have overheated your bar it will sluf off the paint and have a blue heat signature marks along the edge of the rail on the section where it got hot if you have a relatively big piece of glass you can take your bar and lay it flat on that and check it for warping or stand the bar up on its rail (that's been trueed up square) put it on a flat surface and run a square up and down from one end to the other and check for twists usually the reason you get a tweak or bend in your bar is because you put too much torsional force on it try to pull it out of a pinch or a bind .. your bar rails also have to be level parallel and true you can take a small accurate square and slide it up and down your rails facing toward the sunlight just right and check for any worn spots that could cause your chain to track sideways and correct them with a flat file those bar dressing tool off of eBay for around $13 seem to work pretty good and help take some of the guesswork out ... If your chain rocks too much slop in the bar groove it'll cause it to cut off to one side if you're good with a hammer you can close your rails back up to spec there's a guy on eBay that sells really nice bar closing tools that'll have you singin' Happy trails and in a hurry 😁 they're a little expensive but they're well built and they'll last you probably a dozen lifetimes all stainless steel construction ... then of course your chain has to be symmetrical opposed on both sides same angle with same tooth length (it's not too much of a problem if you have to file just one or two shorter if you hit a nail or Rock) and your depth gauges have to be all consistently the same height as well as the RIGHT HEIGHT sometimes they need to meet up with the file straight out of the box brand new as there a bit too high of course there's some variations on that like what you're cutting and how aggressive you want it to cut if one side of your rakers are shorter than the other it will cause it to cut off to one side Or sometimes if they're just too tall they can cause it to wanna favor one side especially in conjunction with any other aspects that are out of spec ...and you have to use a really good bar oil some of them are just crap believe it or not I use Poulan Pro from Walmart I have really good luck with it heavy sticky and stays on your chain I also found out I needed to modify my oil pumps or upgrade to high output to get sufficient oil flow especially when I'm cutting that bigger stuff that's dead hard dry ... And if you get into the art of square filing I've found that not only do they cut faster and more efficient they seem to hold their edge much better the tooth cutting beak tends not to round down as much if your chain is not cutting it's making heat not only does that stretch your chain and wipe it out in a hurry it also transfers that said heat through the bar into your engine leaving it open to overheating ..on some of those bars the oil holes are a little restrictive and you can get a notable amount of exta oil flow by taking a small carbide or diamond Dremel bit and elongate the oil hole to double size .. by sloting you're hole vertical with the rail and to the back away from the nose of the bar
Mark! Dude! You just laid it all out there. Wow, thanks man. This will take me a minute to digest. Great info! Thanks a lot. I will be referring back to this.
It seems to be a trend that the fuel solenoid fails due to dirt (Stihl's fault of design). This causes a lean running condition which overheats the saws, and results in scored cylinder walls, damage to the piston, and the bearing cages will degrade if they are plastic. The plot thickens: new improved fuel solenoids don't work with the old coils (Sometimes or all the time, I don't know). I can't say that IS the problem, but that is what happened to my MS 362 CM. (Lucky us) Best of luck. thanks for the video.
I have a MS261C that I bought in 2015 and has been fantastic. I have several bigger and smaller saws but this has been my go to saw and never lets me down. One thing I did from the start was use Red Line two stroke racing oil in all my saws like I do in my snowmobiles. This is the best two stroke oil on the market in my opinion.
Dress the Bar. The bar will wear so one side is lower. You want the shoulders the chain ride on level. Also, Flip the bar every time, or every other time you sharpen the chain so the bar wears more even to help you get more life out of the Bar.
As , a few others have suggested check the condition of your bar. There should be no burrs on it at all, and the guide rails should be level to one another. Otherwise the rails will need to be dressed. The chain maybe be sharp, but your rakers may be higher on one side than the other. Use a gauge and file each raker gauge. Even if your using the 2in1 file check every tooth with a raker gauge afterwards. Also, that blue discoloration is from the factory, the guide rails are tempered to reduce wear.
It running rough means you had never let that auto tune system correctly tune therefore it was probably too lean and you burnt it down all on your own. Also for most Stihl dealers “display” just means it got unboxed that’s it
Just curious and still learning myself but is the angled cut due to operator slanting / canting the bar when using the machine?? could a different hold on the top grip rectify this? Also is this 261 the "M TRONIC" and can the shop supply a breakdown of the usage??
I’ve got got a ms290 about 15 years old now starts on the 3rd pull every time. Been through hundreds of chains and a few bars. It took a steep learning curve to know how to sharpen a chain. All things being equal tooth length and sharp on both sides of the chain will straighten your cuts. Your chain doesn’t appear equal thus the cutting curve. I’ve learned to file my chain every third tank same number of strokes per side. Tooth length should match, measure it. I’ve got a ms180 for limb work. I’d like a new saw but can’t justify it.
Im a little bit harsh. But to me the bar and chain are going to make the cut not straight. Improperly sharped chain will make it not cut straight. the bar will wonder. I have done this. What I recommend is to buy a couple of chains and if you hit a rock or dirt and the chain saw is struggling to cut STOP let it cool off and change out the chain. When your at that point the chain is going to require some good work to bring it back... A simple swipe wont work.... Some folks will bring them to a local shop and pay the 5 or 6 bucks to have them professionally sharpened. Pay the 20 25 bucks and get 3 4 chains ready for work that day when you know your cutting up a bunch of stuff. 261 is a Fantastic saw. You just need to grow with it.
Thanks for being gentle on me. I have a lot of growing to do with this thing, but as they say there are growing pains and I just experienced some. Great info!
As to the saw cutting straight when cutting up but cutting on a curve when cutting down. That suggests that the top/outer most surface of the bar rails are worn unevenly. To check - take the bar+chain off, remove the chain from the bar and clean the bar of debris. Then look along the bar’s groove at arm’s length. Do this on both edges along both grooves. If either rail/s of either side of the bar is lower in comparison to its pair. Then the bar needs to be dressed, in order to allow the chain to equally ride along the rails. If the rails on one side or both sides of a guide bar is worn more than its pair. Then the chain will flop to the lower edged rail, resulting in a curving cut and probably increased vibration. It’s a circle. A worn and sometimes blunt chain, can unevenly wear the bar. An unevenly worn bar, will unevenly wear the chain. The longer you leave the problem, the worse it gets, for both chain & bar. To dress the guide bar, requires that you know and can draw-file the bar. If you can’t draw-file, you can overcome this by using a tool made exactly for this task. I think it’s called a ‘Guide Bar Deburring Tool’ or ‘Guide Bar Dressing Tool’. Your dealer could sell you one but they’re also made by Husqvarna, Oregon, Vallorbe, Echo and are also available from Amazon for a 1/4 of the price. Basically it’s a tool that allows the user, to accurately flat file the guide bar rail or rails, at exactly 90° to the side of the guide bar, to where both rails are squared and at the same height from the base of the groove’s gullet. And or remove burrs from the edges of a worn guide bar. It’s good practice to check for even/uneven wear of the rails, each time you clean the bar and or are flipping the bar over during routine maintenance. (Just be careful of burrs along the rails while checking.) A guide bar will have a small amount of wear during normal cutting. However, a blunt chain will result in heavier guide bar wear. Mainly due to the operator leaning or pushing on the saw with a blunt chain. Invariably when pushing/leaning on the saw, the operator will be leaning one side more than the other. This in turn pushes the chain sideways off the bar and results in a yet greater degree of wear to both chain and guide bar rails. Also, a blunt chain will and can require more bar oil. If a chain remains blunt, the excess friction of chain against uneven rails, can alter the temper of both chain and rails. This in turn allows the rails to wear quicker and there’s no way back from this. Once the chain and bar rails are softened, a pattern of excessive & premature wear will exist. And the kick in the knee, is that a worn chain, will prematurely wear the drive sprocket. Better to keep the chain sharp. And as a safety note. Chainsaws are designed to be used with the left hand on the front handle and the right hand on the rear hand, controlling the power-trigger. I can see you have no concerns of possible leg injury, as you don’t wear chaps. And you have either poor hearing or want to be deaf, as you don’t wear any hearing protection. And you have no concerns of shoulder/chest/head injuries, as you’re prepared and are using a chainsaw left-handed. Please for your own good health, wear chainsaw chaps, a minimum of 23SNR ear defenders and use the saw right-handed. If the upper quadrant of the bar nose contacts an immovable object, the saw can have a kickback event. This can also happen, if the nose is pinched along its upper quadrant. A chainsaw kickback happens too quickly for you to avoid the upward motion. If you’re using the saw right-handedly and providing you’re not looking along the bar. The bar+chain will pass to right side of your body. If you’re using the saw left-handedly, the bar+chain will hit your body at chest+shoulder+head height. While chains seemingly slice neatly through wood. The same cannot be said of chains through flesh & bone. The wound/s will be jagged and severe. Even if you survive, they will be life changing injuries! Yes whichever hand is holding the front handle will probably activate the chainbrake. And yes your particular saw has a chainbrake, which can be activated through sudden inertia event. But what if on that one day, your right hand or wrist doesn’t contact the chainbrake lever and for some reason the brake isn’t activated by inertia? Then it’s back to the life changing injuries.
What a beautiful piece of property You have. Nice footage, and really nice Tractor. Gave You a ‘Thumbs up’ as you seem like a very amicable fellow, and neat Granpaw. 😃 Every Landowner needs/deserves at least one good chainsaw. Having prefaced my comment on a positive note, I must point out some concerns. You handle the tractor and grapple fairly well, chainsaw, not so much. You were overreaching at times, and looked ‘unbalanced’ at other times. One must have a plan when limbing and clearing out fallen trees and big branches. It might seem like they pose no risks, but they are there. It is so easy to lose your balance, and trip over small branches, vines, etc. There were a few times you did not have control of the saw. Please be careful, and take this as merely concern fro your welfare and safety! I’m no expert, but I have been using saws for a number of years. And yes, I’m guilty of some bone headed mistakes myself! 🙄 Nobody wants to deal with a lot of safety garb especially when it is warmer outside. Please invest in some gloves, chaps, and a forestry helmet. What is price/inconvenience when weighed against injuries to ones eyes, head, limbs, etc.or even worse, a fatal outcome? You get my point. Now if any one in here disagrees on my points, that is your prerogative, but its a foolish one. Lot of great comments in here regarding bars, chains, sharpening, etc. I would heed them. The simple act of sharpening is a whole mother big ole’ can o worms. I swear, every time I file my chains, I feel I could do better, or I learn something new. Important thing is to keep the chains SHARP! Flip your bars. Stay safe! Peace 👍✌🙏😊
You are wise and helpful! I completely agree with all you shared. As you continue watching you will find that I have now brought in some of the safety equipment that you have recommended. I need to stay aware and focused on safety. And yes, sharpening has finally been found. You don’t know what you don’t know but thanks to you and many others who have take. The time to leave comments I am moving in a better direction. Thanks for the kind words as well. Kindness is more rare these days and your words are very refreshing and encouraging. God bless!
I don't know how much training or maintenance knowledge you have in using these saws but the MS261C is a pro saw designed for all day long cutting. Now within that using a saw with a dull chain will over heat the saw because you are using it under loads that it was not designed to be used at together with excessive bar ware and chain bluing which detempers the chain that will never stay sharp again. If I where you I would get a new chain and bar plus a good chain sharpner and go from there. Don't run it with a dull chain and keep it the correct tension and you should be ok. If you have any questions please ask... good luck Owen.
Got a fairly new 271 in the shop. He was using it & it quit mid-cut. He was pissed! He bought it used & had it maybe a year. When I looked at it it was evident dirt was getting past the air filter. Air filter was clean but dirt was in the intake.
Thank You@@darrellepickering8433 for saying that. It's not that the motor gets bogged down with a dull chain, it is because the chain is riding effortlessly on the depth gauges and doing NO work at all. The motor is just screaming its guts out. I'm wondering if the M-tronic didn't just default to the high rpm mode you get in a reset?
I watched the video. I read all the comments and your replies. A new 261 CM doesn't get a scored bore and piston from too much oil in the fuel. You can scream until you're blue in the face but for some reason the fuel you put in to your saw most likely didn't have oil or enough oil.
Yes a bar can absolutely warp from excessive heat and heat will also blue the rail of the bar too, so if the edges of the bar where the chain seats is blue then you'll need to replace it because it is no longer safe.
Cylinder scored. Not enough oil in the mix. The bar probably didn't warp ,but if you got it too hot the chain rails get ruined. Judging from your lack of ppe i assume you are not too experienced. Good luck. 👍
Hello, I have had that happen before. You can fix your bar! Your bar is wearing uneven on the rails that the chain runs on. If you have lack of oil flow while cutting the bar heats up quickly and wears faster. If you take off your bar and try to stand it up on the side you have been cutting on and it wound stay up then you can even the rails. Use a bar dresser or square sander. If you flip your bar and it will stand on the other side you will see what I am talking about. Ways to prevent this? Every time you cut with your saw and finish, take off your bar, clean the rails (I use a putty knife) on both sides. Also, make sure both oil holes on the bar are cleaned out!! Blow off all dust and oil grime with a compressed air gun if you have one. Flip your bar when put it back on. Install chain with proper tension! Sharpen chain after every use. Since you bar is uneven now, I would check your chain links where they ride on the bar. The chain may have worn the same way. If you fix the bar rails, the chain may still ride off center and continue to cut crooked. I would buy a few new chains and bring them when you cut. Hitting the ground once will smoke your chain! If you have a couple sharp spares. You can quickly swap chains and keep cutting. Otherwise, time to take out the file! Hope this helps you! Learned the hard way!!
Take bar off lay it on a table. Flip bar over and see if the same. Look to see if bar rails are worn uneven .A worn or spread rail on bar will make a crooked cut . If flipping the bar fixes it or changes it then dress or replace. Make sure chain and bar are the same gauge. Also try a different chain. Are my first thoughts. A dull chain may let rpm`s go to high.
Most likely, if the chain is sharp, your bar grove is worm. The rail that the chain runs in, instead of being parallel, have worm down to a vee. This lets the chain wobble side to side, causing it to cut crooked. Clean out that groove with a putty knife, turn the bar over, to extend the life. Bars sometimes can be "dressed". It is done on a special wheel. Basically if is ground down on the rails to take the vee out. If you feel the bar and there is a little roll of metal, your bar is worn.
I have several Stihl chainsaws. Stihl homeowner chainsaw (024). Pro Stihl chainsaws (MS 261c, MS 400c, MS 462c, MS 500i) used within different applications as needed. Sometimes all are used in more of a crew environment. My experience of a saw cutting a curve is generally due to cutting teeth on one side of the chain being sharper than the other. The sharper side of the chain displaces more wood disproportionally compared to the dull side causing a curve in the wood. Similarly the rakers may also be of disproportional height having the same effect as one side being sharper than the other. Replacing chain with a brand new chain blade will make it clear. If the saw continues to cut a curve with the new blade the two guide rails on bar are most likely uneven and may be fixed with a file or tool made for that purpose. Last the bar may be the issue if it has a bow/curve in the bar. As to the issue of the guide bar becoming hot or bluing on the edge, generally this is caused by a lack of proper bar&chain oil on the bar itself. Check bar oil tank for fluid, next check that the oil feed hole on the bar is not blocked or impeded, another point of concern would be if you have properly adjusted your oil flow setting , which is on the bottom of the chainsaw with a screwdriver. There is one last possibility to consider the oil pump itself has failed and will need to be replaced. Hopefully this information is helpful. Be safe in your labors.
@@JohnWoodbury-xk2cb Thanks so much John. Very good information to keep an eye on. It’s folks like you that make all of this worth while. Stay safe and God bless.
If the groove is spread open wider than it's supposed to be it will cut like that. The chain will ride sideways in the bar. I had that issue with one of mine.
Ignore the EPA and mix the gas with oil at 40:1 or 32:1 instead of 50:1. It will increase the lifespan of the internal components and not score everything up if the saw goes a tad bit lean in gas/air mixture, or if it overheats a bit. That little extra oil makes a huge difference. Also make sure to use synthetic 2 stroke oil.
@@jeffcoulter7181 No such thing as "motorcycle oil" buddy, it's 2 stroke oil for 2 stroke engines. Motul themselves recommend that specific oil for chainsaw use because it has extra cleaning additives and it's great for air cooled 2 strokes. My 881 has ~700 gas tanks though it and the inside is looking like brand new, so are all the rubber parts, 500i even more @1600 work hours on the clock on this same oil, but I'm sure it's just about to blow up because I don't use some cheapo "chainsaw oil".
These are great saws but they have a weak spot, the factory oilers dont supply enough oil even for a 16" bar. I was pretty upset the first day with mine. The bar was smoking hot from some basic limbing. After a little research i ended up replacing the oiler adjustment screw with one out of a 460. Night and day difference now, plenty of oil and a well lubed cool bar. If not taken care of the extra heat will cook clutch and crank bearing not to mention overheating your bar causing it to cut crooked from uneven wear.
Set your rakers/depth gauges to its corresponding cutting tooth. No more crooked cutting. Your cutters can all be different lengths but as long as its corresponding raker is set to the cutter, if doesn't matter. Some people swear that different cutter lengths cause crooked cutting and they'll tell you to file them all to the same length and the crooked cutting will be corrected. That is false. Your rakers not being set to its corresponding cutter is the number 1 cause of crooked cuts. A worn out bar can also be a cause but I highly doubt your bar is worn out. Doesn't look like it has that many hours on it.
A bar can absolutely warp. I just bought a Stihl, ran it for no more than 15 minutes and the bar got hot enough to throw the chain off. Took it back to the dealership who said the bar as warped. Blamed it on user error. Had to replace the bar. Merry f in Christmas.
It is not uncommon for hand filed chains to not be equally sharp left side vs. right side. This happens as those doing the filing aren't consistent from one side to the other.... even if they count strokes. Factors like how much of the file is used, the amount of pressure applied, and the consistency of the stroke all have an impact. For example, paying attention to the sharpness of the very corner of the tip is more important than counting strokes.... For example, the corner of the pointy Stihl Rapid Super yellow box chains. The cutting edge of the green box chains needs to be consistently sharp too.... you have to look at the edge and see if it's sharp. Draw filing the bar to keep the edge square to the sides and to remove burrs should be a regular part of saw maintenance as is flipping the bar regularly. Running a dull chain itself doesn't hurt the engine but digging the bumper spikes in (dogs) and torqueing on the handle to force the saw to cut does. I don't recall you mentioning what you use for gasoline or the ratio of oil to gas... too much oil increases carbon build up and causes the saw to run leaner than it should. I recall a guy in another forum running 40:1 instead of 50:1, plus marvel mystery oil, plus some other oil thinking that more oil would decrease wear... instead it led to a heavy carbon build up and chunks of carbon would break off and score the piston and cylinder. Use the recommended ratio and non-ethanol gas of 90+ octane for best results. With proper bar and chain maintenance I've run Stihl saws until there was no paint left on the bars while the groove was still deep enough and tight enough, and the edge square enough, to keep successfully using them. The pistons and cylinders were also clean. BTW, from what I've seen, Stihl bars appear to be blued along the edges (under the paint) coming from the factory. Apparently it happens as part of the manufacturing process. As such, the discoloration by itself isn't a sure sign a bar was run too hot. Using real bar oil is important too... this as it has additives to make it sticky so it stays on the chain and lubricates all the way around. Things like used motor oil don't do that... and they contain contaminants.
"Need a sharp chain or ruin your saw" sounds like a rural legend to me. Maybe if you force the saw and put too much load on it... maybe. But all a dull chain by itself will do is fail to cut.
Let me say this, I bought a brand new Stihl 180C limber which in principle sounded great. It’s been a disaster. Chains keep flying off, and no I’m not over or under tightening them. Been buying new bars, new Stihl OEM chains, proper lube etc. my captured chain catcher on clutch cover was so badly mauled it is gone but Stihl won’t warrant the problem. That said, I’ve gone to my Husky 545 mark II and no problems
generally scored pistons are caused by running lean, whether thats not enough fuel/oil mix running through, or not enough oil in the mix. also, it is very possible to warp/bend a bar, but usually cutting at an angle is caused by one side of the chain being sharper than the other
The epa requires them to have them set as lean as they possibly can… and with the new jet limiters, even at the max open setting they can get starved of oil (since lean on a two stroke means a lot less oil)
You need to flip your bar every once in a while. I would take a guess you had an air leak in the saw or you didn’t use a good oil or the right oil gas mixture. I been using Stihl pro saws for years. Never had a problem. But I have seen air leaks in saws before and it will do your piston and cylinder in.
hi just wanted to tell you that you need to flip the bar over each time you sharpen the saw if the chain is cutting to the left sharpen the right side a lil more and vice versa for the right and check your bar and make sure it did not spread apart which will make your chain cut crooked and make sure you file the rakes every other chain sharpening just thought this might help you some
@@TheLovelyPlace thank you for your service i wanted to serve but wasn't accepted at the time merry christmas to you also tinman was one of my cb handles when i was working i'm disabled now
i bought one years ago, first time i ever got that brand and did so because everyone said how great the older ones they had were. a brand new saw would work fine the first time and after i shut i off for a break and tried to start it again it would never start the second time. i had others try it just to make sure i wasn't me but nope it only ran the first time, never on a second attempt no matter what we did. i will never use that brand again they're just not reliable, especially considering how much more they were charging versus other brands at the time..
Cause of dull chain and not having the chain oiler on max oil flow and heating up the saw so much and scoring the piston and cylinder walls will ruin any brand of chainsaw. What you need to do is take the bar off and do bar maintance. The bar rails are not parallel any more. That"s why the top side cuts straight. And after you sharpen chain flip your bar over every once in awhile. I was a logger for 10 years and learned all this stuff. Now i over haul chainsaws for hobby. Look up chainsaw bar maintaince on youtube and you'll see why it cuts crooked.
My 261 has almost never cut straight. The bar warps easily and/or wears out the groove and then it cuts crooked. I've replaced the bar twice and after a few logs, it cuts crooked again. A Stihl 261 is expensive for a saw that can't cut straight. I'm juts a homeowner not a pro and the 261 is just not a durable product for me.
HEA I know you... Your the guy at the pit when we go shooting that says My rifle isnt accurate. My pistol isnt accurate. My guns all jam and dont work... See a trend... Saying the Legndary 261 The Son of the Great 026 and the 260 is a bad product because you dont know how to operate it correctly is a bold move... That saw is FANTASTIC. Ive been around them Lots and they all preform awesome. And you see it in My videos as proof. I used it many of my videos. Chain saws are not just gas and go tools. You need to know how to run one. anyone can pull the trigger...
@@LiveFreeOrRIP WTF are you talking about? I run a business, I own about 6 saws, but the 261 is very fussy. If it's just me, why do my 024s and 026s cut straight?
Any chance you accidentally ran straight gas in the saw? If so, the piston will score after a coupIe tanks (no more residual oil). I mention this because I had a guy on the farm do this to one of my saws. He thought he had mixed the oil into the gas but he omitted it by mistake.
No chance on that for sure. I have a 1 gallon can that I use exclusively for the saw and for my leaf blower. It's always mixed correctly, Good thought though. Thanks!
@@sawmanbigtreeslayer2360 It will melt the piston rings into the piston after about 5 mins cutting, I did it on a husky and they have softer bore liner metal than a still.
When I bought my first chainsaw 2 years ago I bought a homeowner ms211c. I managed to dull the chain in the first 2 minutes of cutting. No one told me hitting the dirt was bad! Then proceeded to cut some more with it. Shortly after I mean within 20 minutes a good portion of the bar paint came off. I had had it 1 day!!! So chain on too tight and dull chain. Heats up bar. You don’t need a new bar. I have used that Ms211c bar for another 2 years now. Looks beat to hell. Talked to a buddy of my mine that schooled me on chainsawing. He’s got 4 stihls. Bought a 2in1 sharpener for that ms211c. Watched some RUclips videos. Got it screaming sharp in under 5 minutes. Had dulled the chain quite a bit. But after I learned what not to do anymore (hit dirt) and learned how to sharpen with that 2in1 I used that chain and filed it probably 100x before retiring it and had cut probably 7 cords of wood with it. Last nov 2021 I upgraded to a ms462C. After several cords of cutting and the experience of knowing when to stop and sharpen and how much to tension the chain I barely have maybe a couple of spots of missing paint on the bar (from maybe being pinched and then twisting the bar to get out). Wrong oil mixture or straight up no oil or dull chain like said scored your piston. I know a guy that that killed his ms291 as he had little experience and kept running the saw even when the chain was dull. Learn how to use the 2in1. Even super dull chains it can bring back to life. I use a 28” bar and was cutting a log once on a hill but didn’t realize the front of the bar had been contacting dirt for a good 10-15 seconds. Left side of the chain all broke! I spent some time filing them back to sharp. Left and right side were totally at different lengths. Didn’t matter. Once it was all filed to sharp again it cut straight Eventhough the left side teeth were half filed away to fix all the broke off tips.people that say the 2in1 is no good don’t have a clue what they are talking about. All I’ve used for 2+ years. No need to pay someone to sharpen a chain unless it’s real bad or you’re just too lazy 🤣 all these you need to get a new bar comments are nonsense. You’ll not likely wear that bar out other than remove the paint. Don’t tension the chain too tight and LIFT up the bar as you tension it. If you don’t the second you cut the bar will lift up and the chain will appear loose again.
Your comments are reassuring and much appreciated. I will make this my initial focus. I already own the 2 in 1 sharpener and have used it. I think the damage had already been done to the original saw by the time I realized my error of not having it sharp enough. I should have done a lot more. research before using it. I just didn't realize the extent of upkeep required until it was a little too late. Thanks!
@@TheLovelyPlace kinda trips me out the Stihl dealers don’t educate or ask questions when selling a saw. They didn’t ask me anything either when I bought my home owner saw. I think it also depends on the dealership. Some honestly aren’t very educated. The 2in1 sharpeners are the best! And the replacement round files are $2 each. The flat file is $10. But it’ll last a few years before you need new files
The chain looks sharp and as you observed, it's not cutting in a curve, so I don't see the problem? If the cut is slightly angled it may be the way you're holding the saw. That bar has got hot some time in the past, but doesn't look like it's causing a problem now.
I have a sthil ms381 pro saw 15 years old no problem but i dont know if the new saws are made differently i dont know but the build quility is good but i wonder is the new stuff badly made vs old .
If you're cutting with a chainsaw that gets damaged from a dull blade, then that chainsaw isn't worth owning. Also, if you're running a chainsaw with the blade getting hot and overheating, then there is something wrong with the automatic oiling system. These newer chainsaws are designed to be self oiling in order to keep the chain and bar cool. When you are seeing the blade getting hot to the point of scoring and blackening, then the chain bar is not getting the oil it needs. Even if it's getting oil, it's obviously not getting enough oil. So that said, either the oiling well is clogged, or the automatic oil pump is bad and must be replaced. There is absolutely no reason for a chainsaw blade to be getting hot to the point of burning. In answer to your query, yes. Yes, a chainsaw blade will warp if it gets too hot. The other issue that may be causing the chain to create heat and friction that causes it to overheat, is applying too much downward and side pressure to the tool while cutting with it. A properly sharpened chainsaw will cut the wood on its own without a need for you to apply downward pressure. Doing so will only cause friction that can overheat and ruin the chainsaw blade. Judging from the burn scoring on your blade, that blade is ruined and must be replaced. It isn't just a matter of the chainsaw blade overheating. It can cause binding, which in turn can break the chain, or worse. An overheated and warped blade can cause dangerous and deadly kickback that is too powerful to control. Kickback can happen instantly and without warning. this is why the dog teeth at the front of the motor chassis must be engaged in the wood while cutting. The dogs will minimize or prevent dangerous kickback. The action of the cutting chain is designed to draw and pull the chainsaw and blade towards and into the log being cut. This ensures proper engagement of the dog teeth to minimize or prevent kickback. Get a new blade. Learn how to use your chainsaw safely and effectively. You are contributing to the problems and the issues you're experiencing because of improper use of the saw. I grew up using chainsaws. Everything you described stems from and shows a lack of adequate and safe understanding of how to use a chainsaw effectively and safely. So, here's what you need to do. Buy a new blade and chain. Send the old blade and the chain to a metal recycle center or send it to the landfill. By using that burnt and possibly warped chainsaw blade, you are endangering yourself and others around you. And, you're wrecking your chainsaw engine by making it work too hard.
It could be incorrect depth gauge height. or the wrong gauge chain is being used (Or the groove is warn out and too wide), or one of the rails is higher than the other...
Was the scoring on the piston on the intake or exhaust side? All saws need to run with a sharp chain. Just like if you take up woodworking / joinery, you need to become a master sharpener of your tools. Cutting with a blunt chain generates a lot of heat which can lead to things like the seals failing causing an air leak, which then makes the saw run lean and causes failures. As others have mentioned, Buckin Billy Ray has a whole heap of 30+ minute videos on sharpening. If you aren't confident in your sharpening and want to work out why the saw is cutting crooked, just buy a new chain and cut with that. If it cuts straight out of the box, your sharpening on the old chain is at fault. If it cuts crooked with a new chain, your bar is at fault. It could be bent from heat or pinching, or the rails might be worn or uneven and need dressing.
Man you guys know your stuff. Comes with time and experience I am sure. I never imagined that my saw chain could have been dull enough to cause any issues, but it could have been the case. As for the piston, the service manager didn't say, he was kinda vague in his description. I question the whole service experience but now I have a different saw and I am going to follow all of this great advice. I really appreciate it all.
You’re asking for help as to why you blew up your last saw yet when you start cutting you have the music in the video cranked up so loud you can barely hear the saw. Are you left handed? Because your holding the saw wrong. The top handle is angled for your left hand not your right. It’s scary to watch you run it it looks like you’re either going to cut your leg off or get the bar and chain in the face. Buy some chaps and a helmet and shield. Not a bad idea to have steel toe boots either.
You need to find a new STIHL dealer…. If the STIHL dealer would have fallowed STIHL’S diagnostic procedures. They would have found the problem in like 3-5 minutes and a experienced technician would have found in like a min or less.
Step 1 pull the muffler. Step 2 see the piston is Toast and cooked. Step 3 your saw was over heated from 2 things. Dull chain. Or Wrong gas. Either shouldn't be covered in my opinion... If you burn up a saw from being a dumb shit then why should you get a warranty...
@@mikespain8655 A good dealer would do what ever it takes. And works the system. I know when I was at a dealer ship we had a few catastrophic failures. And just replaced them with new units. Really the dealer controls a lot.
Don’t take this comment as being a smart-ass reply but just buy a new bar and see if it makes an improvement to your cut. You can also have the service dept. dress the bar. They will plane it evenly on both sides or you can do it yourself at home if you take your time but it sounds like there is a minuscule bend in the bar. Which in that case if it was my saw I would put a new bar on it.
If your chain is so dull that you overload the engine your arms must be pretty sore pushing on the saw. If you see fine sawdust instead of large chips, the chain is dull and needs to be sharpened or replaced. Warping the bar from overheating seems unlikely to me.
Bsutton is absolutely correct!!! Either one side is sharper than the other or one sides teeth are longer than the other. Your chain may need gauging which is an adjustment on the rakers of the chain.
Or the teeth on one side are sharpened at the wrong angle compared to the other side. 35 degrees instead of 30. Use a file guide to help with that, it's easy to get them wrong after repeated sharpenings.
The “c” at the end is the reason why it broke. Commifornia “compliant” anything is junk. That cat chokes the engine out and keeps heat and exhaust in instead of out where it needs to be.
Interesting. That's what I heard from another subscriber previously. They said I must keep it extremely sharp at all times. As I mentioned in the video, could be the electronics that makes it so finicky.
The C means comfort feature. The comfort feature on this one being the M TRONIC. Self adjusting carburetor. The C has nothing to do with California. The C-M is found on the larger 362C, 462C, 661C
@@LeuCustomKnives The C (Comfort) feature has nothing to do with self adjusting carburettor. Comfort = recoil starter, no primer, side chain tensioner etc. M = Motronic which is the self adjusting carb.
@@dab. so the regular MS462 doesn’t have all those things you mentioned minus the M tronic? As I have read it the C-M or C-BE the letters after the C tell you what the comfort features are on the saws are.
@@LeuCustomKnives Not all 'Comfort' saws have the same features. The lettering means: B: Quick chain adjuster C: Comfort, for ergonomic and lightweight designs. E: ErgoStart M: M-Tronic, engine management system that adjusts to varying conditions such as temperature. You'd have to ask Stihl why the 462 isn't considered a comfort saw.
im just getting into saws myself and was having a similar issue i think its 90% technique for me im gonna put duel WCS felling dogs on mine. one of my assumptions was that when im dogging in deep because i olny have spikes on one side it kinda cockeyes the saw ever so slightly this is just a theory. im gonna try to get the ok from the missus the get the felling dogs and fingers crossed a bark box on my next payday. i was running a 460 32" bar cutting roughly 28-30" red oak. i have a 038 super that is literally old as me from 1985 its my favorite out of my collection so far. i also got a few farm boss saws i use for limbing and stuff.
may need a new bar because it may be worn out,dont burn up another engine but seems stihl would have mentioned it. I have a 271 but went to husq 460 for bigger stuff.
There is no intake valve on a carburetor. A dull chain can potentially overheat the engine (not motor) and score the piston, rings, and cylinder. You are fortunate you got a new $500 saw for free. It was most likely operator error.
The reason your saw is cutting crooked is because the chain isn't evenly sharp on either side. In other words each tooth on the right side of the chain needs to be the same length as the teeth on the other side of the chain.
Take your chain & bar off then see if the bar will sit up on a flat surface on its edge, if it doesn’t you will need to file the edge of the bar till it will sit up on edge. What it does it makes your chain ride to a slant which will make it cut crooked.
I can see the bar has clearly over heated at some point you must have run a blunt chain with very little oil. The bar needs dressing so both rails are square to the side of the guide bar Sharpen you chain and ensure all the cutters are at the same length flip the bar over so the top in now the bottom and it will cut straight. I think this will all be covered online somewhere ... Good luck
I think you never swapped your bar after filling the chain. The colour of your is gone only on one point. Check if there is a ridge on your bar, and if it is, file it with a flat file away. Sorry for the bad writing, I'm from Germany and not used to write English... Gruß, Peter!
You should only use a hand saw. You need fresh gas and proper fuel mixture. You need to fill your chain oiler every time you fill your gas. As the bar runs dry and gets hot it can water uneven. Get a new bar and chain .
If the chairs are too tight and you should routinely flip the bar and dress the bar also you should let the saws warm up before cutting into wood... if you do not let the saws warm up you will score the cylinder walls
Dull chain will overrev engine, leading to piston/cylinder failure. Same for any chainsaw. Other than straight gas or too lean carb, leading cause of failures.
The saw cutting at an angle is usually due to the chain. Why? You are better at sharpening one side of the chain's teeth than the other side, or one side is sharpened at a different angle than the other side. Even a slight difference will cause the angle cutting. Yes, flip the bar - but the chain's teeth is where the cutting happens. About the piston being scored - run better 2-stroke oil in your saw. I'm guessing you used Stihl Ultra. 2-stroke oils are graded, Ultra is class B. Most are Class D which means they are higher quality. There are better oil options (Echo Red Armor, 2-stroke dirt bike oils, Amsoil Saber, and others). And I would run a little more oil in the gas than specified - so 40:1 recommended, run 32:1.
I use my MS261 c alot - 3 hours per week it's great. If it's pulling to the left or to one side - it's the chain. try having a pro shop sharpen the chain or try a brand new chain.
you probably ran it too hot during break in. there built very tight and produces massive amounts of heat in first hour. bar curving may be one side of chain being sharper than other side.
A mufler mod would fix this in a matter of seconds along with double felling dogs that are about 4-1/2" long ,,, change the cluctch and sprocket over too an 8 pin 3/8lp skip tooth and put 29" bar on it. 💪😁
just get a new bar and chain problem solved. I have 2 stihl chainsaws and if they blow up from the chain not being super sharp then they would be junk. As long as you sharpen your chain periodically there is no reason for it to blow up. I think you just got a defective one and people don't want it to be the saw, but i work in quality control, no matter how good you produce a product sometimes you get defective ones.
to start fresh.....dump the chain and bar for new.... a warn chain could also cause the groove in the bar the be warn at an angle.....new...new ...new......start fresh....
I watched this video several months ago and commented. I received a notice today that someone liked my comment so I came back to the video to refresh my memory. In doing so I noticed something I missed previously. That being that you are using the saw left handed. That affects the "hang' of the saw. That alone could be leading to your angled cut. Left handed use is also not recommended as it puts your body in direct line with the bar in the event of a kickback. See the "Holding and Controlling the Chainsaw" section on page 10 of your manual. You will find that Stihl does not recommend left handed operation.
Like everyone has said, flip your bar when you sharpen your chain and always keep your chain sharp. Don't obsess with keeping your cutters exactly the same length like many think you have too. Just make sure you keep your raker's or depth gauges set right. I run all Sthil pro series saws and the 261 is one of my favorite go to firewood saws. I find it hard to believe you blew one up if you were using good mixed fuel, even if the chain was dull and you did very little cutting with it. The 261 is no more prone to blowing up than any other saw as I'm around my Sthil dealer on a regular basis and have never heard any complaints like that. I run the snot out of mine and it has never missed a beat. Makes me wonder if you may have just gotten a bad one. Just one more thing, not trying to tell anybody what to do but it wouldn't be a bad idea to get yourself a good set of chainsaw chaps. Especially if your not real experienced with a saw. Things happen especially when your climbing around limbing downed trees. Been running a saw for the better part of 35 years and I can tell ya chaps saved my ass once. Plus their nice in the brush and if your lucky enough to have multiflora rose vines. By the way too, I love that tractor and grapple you have. I just got one last year and don't know why I waited so long.
I can tell from what you're saying that you know a thing or two! I am going to take your advice and get those chaps. You are not the first to mention it but you have convinced me. I hope and believe that. you are right, I think I must have got a lemon. Hopefully this one will have no problems at all. I promise you, I have been very sure that I have always filled up with the correct gas/oil mixture.The thing that makes me happy is you saying that the MS 261 C is your go to. It tells me that I made a good choice, just got a bad one but I should be good to go for now. Thanks on the tractor and grapple, loving them both! Merry Christmas and thanks for hanging out with me at The Lovely Place.
@@TheLovelyPlace The 261 has good power to weight ratio and unless I'm cutting big wood I find myself picking it up over my bigger saws. Just make sure you let it warm up for a minute like any saw before you start cutting and you'll be fine. There's nothing wrong at all with the two -n- one file, I use one every now and then but usually hand file or use my chain grinder. Glad I could help out. I'm no pro, just love running a saw, kinda my hobby you could say and have cut wood since I was a kid. Good talking to you. The 261 will make you a great saw, promise.
@@TheLovelyPlace You can forego getting the saw chaps if you want and get chainsaw pants instead. The pants are wayyyyy more comfortable. But get one or the other. Just my 2 cents.
This is a pain in the ass saw. Its a good example of what not to buy. I really fucking hate thie piece of shit.
Did i mention its a very stupid design.😊 no adjustments. It does it itself. All you got to do is picl the rigjt dsy of the rigjt month, at the right month, during the correct time of day, when tĥe planets all align right. Then, if your at the elevatiom, it might start. Well, have fun
any time a new saw is ruined there is 99.99% chance that it is the operators fault!
Don't doubt that a bit. Live and learn. At least no one got hurt.
Flip your bar upside down and see if it still cuts on an angle. If it still cuts crooked then it’s your chain. As others have said, when you file by hand it’s easy to get one side sharper than the other due to hand preference.
Good thought! I am so happy I have you guys to help me as I learn.
I own Stevenson tree service run all day long with stihl MS 261C-M never had any issues after each day our saws are cleaned chains sharpened air filters cleaned never had any issues. They run 5-7 days a week sometime 12 or more hours a day. Love the 261 great saw
I could learn a lot from someone like you sir.
I see a lot of comments mentioning the chain. That's possible, but in my experience, the primary cause of cutting at an angle is related to the bar. The bar groove wears over time or can wear prematurely from an over-tightened chain or excessive heat (from insufficient oiling or cutting with a dull chain).
This causes the groove to angle out like a "V" (instead of being at a 90 degree angle), which causes the chain to cut at an angle.
A pinched or warped bar can have a similar effect, but I think the groove issue is more likely. You can verify all these potential causes by close inspection of the bar. You can sometimes correct groove wear with a file or grinder, and I believe there is a guide in the user's manual.
Keep the bar clean, the chain sharp, and make sure you have a small bit of slack in the chain when cutting to prevent premature wear. You may also want to ensure the chain oiler on the saw is working properly.
I have an MS261with a 20" light bar running 33RS3 chain with the traditional old school carb. It's my favorite saw. My second most favorite saw is my new MS400C.
I've been using chainsaws off and on for 60 years. (I'm older than dirt.). I was pruning fruit trees with one in my youth. The fifties saws weren't nearly as nice as what we have now.
To see if it's your chain, take it to the dealer and have them sharpen it on their machine. If it cuts straight, the bar isn't the problem, it's a problem with sharpening.
I had the same angle cut problem with my 261. It cut straight after the dealer sharpened the chain. I stopped using the 2 in one sharpener and went back to the round file with the tin guide on it - a system I've been using like forever. Problem went away. Went back to the 2 in 1, problem returned. Now I just use the file with the tin guide. Then adjust the gage teeth using the file gage and a flat file.
Unless you did it off camera, it didn't look like you warmed up the saw before you started cutting with it. That's a really good way to score the piston. Warming up the saw at slightly elevated idle for thirty to 45 seconds will protect from the cold engine piston scoring phenomena and assure you start with a well oiled chain.
I can't believe you didn't wear protective chaps and a hard hat. I got away without them for 5 decades but I bought the first pair of saw chaps I saw for sale at the Stihl dealer. Look up the statistics on chainsaw injuries. There are over 30,000 serious chainsaw injuries a year. The average 'survivable' cut takes over a hundred stitches. I also have a saw optimized emergency medical kit on my belt with quick clot gauze and a toruniquet.
I use a BRADCO grapple on an LS160 skid-steer for handling trees and logs. I agree, the grapple is a wonderful tool.
Seasoned cutter here and i Own and run the 261c for many years now excellent saw my go to never let me down just make sure you use 50:1 ratio oil to fuel mix check ur plug every so often refer to the service manual and always clean the filter most importantly a chainsaw is only as good as its chain is that its sharp when sharpening the cutters don't have to be perfect lengths or same lengths just make sure there sharpened in the same angle and your raker depth gauges are all filed down the same depth right around and you will be good its about maintenance over and over you simply take care of something and it will do its best taking care of you.
I have a Stihl 261C which is currently at the Stihl dealer because it was bogging down under load. It is the first time I have had any issues with it after 2 1/2 years with lots of hours on it. At one point in the past, I was sawing with a dull chain and heated up the bar significantly. I was afraid the heat may have caused the cylinder wall to become scored. Since it is easy to remove the muffler and check this, I did, and all looked ok. This was a really helpful video - thanks and good luck with your new 261C.
I’ve been running my ms260 for 20yrs with amsoil saber 50-1, still runs like new!
I just saw this. You are not alone on that type of MS261 failure! It’s supposed to be a professional saw! Most people are convinced the Mtronic system is running it too lean at times. Husqvarna had that problem with Autotune and ended up redesigning the 550xp with a totally different cylinder with more cooling fins. Stihl Ultra 2 cycle oil is the last oil I would choose and I would make sure to use ethanol free gasoline with your mix @ 40:1. Mtronic will adjust itself(or should). Check the owner’s manual on occasional reset procedures. Plenty of advice on here with sharpening, etc. I would look into an aftermarket guide bar such as Sugihara or Tsumura, they’re made from tool steel. 👍
Awesome info! Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge! What oil would you recommend?
@@TheLovelyPlace I use Echo Red Armor.
I love my manual tune Stihl 261.
As for you blowing up the first saw, I would advise you too not use premixed fuel; if that is what you used. Mix your own fuel at 40:1. I know Stihl recommends 50:1, but that does not provide enough oil to the piston and crank case. I have several Stihl saws and I have never had a problem, and I have never used 50:1.
Great advice.. Thanks!
If the rails of your bar are worn on one side of the chain groove more than the other you will cut in an arch, you can file or grind it back square.
Caused by pushing down on the center of your top bar instead of as close to directly over clutch side as possible.
I’m right handed so I hold as far to the clutch side as possible and apply push force with my left thumb on the curve of the handle.
For a left hander slide your hand all the way to the right and apply downward force with your palm at the base of you pinky.
Any downward force from the center or left side of the top bar will a crooked cut and wear the bar and chain and cut off to the side.
The heat spot in the paint on the flywheel side of you shows friction and excessive friction and wear.
Good luck to you and enjoy your saw I have 2 026 stihls myself and use them more than my bigger saws
Man that's also helpful, I am learning. Thanks for sharing this with me.
If you are a lefty, YOU ARE CANTING THE SAW TO THE RIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NEVER PUSH! LET THE SAW DO THE WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If you have overheated your bar it will sluf off the paint and have a blue heat signature marks along the edge of the rail on the section where it got hot if you have a relatively big piece of glass you can take your bar and lay it flat on that and check it for warping or stand the bar up on its rail (that's been trueed up square) put it on a flat surface and run a square up and down from one end to the other and check for twists usually the reason you get a tweak or bend in your bar is because you put too much torsional force on it try to pull it out of a pinch or a bind .. your bar rails also have to be level parallel and true you can take a small accurate square and slide it up and down your rails facing toward the sunlight just right and check for any worn spots that could cause your chain to track sideways and correct them with a flat file those bar dressing tool off of eBay for around $13 seem to work pretty good and help take some of the guesswork out ... If your chain rocks too much slop in the bar groove it'll cause it to cut off to one side if you're good with a hammer you can close your rails back up to spec there's a guy on eBay that sells really nice bar closing tools that'll have you singin' Happy trails and in a hurry 😁 they're a little expensive but they're well built and they'll last you probably a dozen lifetimes all stainless steel construction ... then of course your chain has to be symmetrical opposed on both sides same angle with same tooth length (it's not too much of a problem if you have to file just one or two shorter if you hit a nail or Rock) and your depth gauges have to be all consistently the same height as well as the RIGHT HEIGHT sometimes they need to meet up with the file straight out of the box brand new as there a bit too high of course there's some variations on that like what you're cutting and how aggressive you want it to cut if one side of your rakers are shorter than the other it will cause it to cut off to one side Or sometimes if they're just too tall they can cause it to wanna favor one side especially in conjunction with any other aspects that are out of spec ...and you have to use a really good bar oil some of them are just crap believe it or not I use Poulan Pro from Walmart I have really good luck with it heavy sticky and stays on your chain I also found out I needed to modify my oil pumps or upgrade to high output to get sufficient oil flow especially when I'm cutting that bigger stuff that's dead hard dry ... And if you get into the art of square filing I've found that not only do they cut faster and more efficient they seem to hold their edge much better the tooth cutting beak tends not to round down as much if your chain is not cutting it's making heat not only does that stretch your chain and wipe it out in a hurry it also transfers that said heat through the bar into your engine leaving it open to overheating ..on some of those bars the oil holes are a little restrictive and you can get a notable amount of exta oil flow by taking a small carbide or diamond Dremel bit and elongate the oil hole to double size .. by sloting you're hole vertical with the rail and to the back away from the nose of the bar
Mark! Dude! You just laid it all out there. Wow, thanks man. This will take me a minute to digest. Great info! Thanks a lot. I will be referring back to this.
It seems to be a trend that the fuel solenoid fails due to dirt (Stihl's fault of design). This causes a lean running condition which overheats the saws, and results in scored cylinder walls, damage to the piston, and the bearing cages will degrade if they are plastic. The plot thickens: new improved fuel solenoids don't work with the old coils (Sometimes or all the time, I don't know). I can't say that IS the problem, but that is what happened to my MS 362 CM. (Lucky us) Best of luck. thanks for the video.
I have a MS261C that I bought in 2015 and has been fantastic. I have several bigger and smaller saws but this has been my go to saw and never lets me down. One thing I did from the start was use Red Line two stroke racing oil in all my saws like I do in my snowmobiles. This is the best two stroke oil on the market in my opinion.
Great to learn about the oil brand that you use. I will look for some. Thanks!
One side of your chain is dull if it cuts on an angle. But i would get a new bar and chain, and you've got to keep it from hitting the dirt!
Dress the Bar. The bar will wear so one side is lower. You want the shoulders the chain ride on level. Also, Flip the bar every time, or every other time you sharpen the chain so the bar wears more even to help you get more life out of the Bar.
As , a few others have suggested check the condition of your bar. There should be no burrs on it at all, and the guide rails should be level to one another. Otherwise the rails will need to be dressed.
The chain maybe be sharp, but your rakers may be higher on one side than the other. Use a gauge and file each raker gauge. Even if your using the 2in1 file check every tooth with a raker gauge afterwards.
Also, that blue discoloration is from the factory, the guide rails are tempered to reduce wear.
It running rough means you had never let that auto tune system correctly tune therefore it was probably too lean and you burnt it down all on your own. Also for most Stihl dealers “display” just means it got unboxed that’s it
Just curious and still learning myself but is the angled cut due to operator slanting / canting the bar when using the machine?? could a different hold on the top grip rectify this?
Also is this 261 the "M TRONIC" and can the shop supply a breakdown of the usage??
I’ve got got a ms290 about 15 years old now starts on the 3rd pull every time. Been through hundreds of chains and a few bars. It took a steep learning curve to know how to sharpen a chain. All things being equal tooth length and sharp on both sides of the chain will straighten your cuts. Your chain doesn’t appear equal thus the cutting curve. I’ve learned to file my chain every third tank same number of strokes per side. Tooth length should match, measure it. I’ve got a ms180 for limb work. I’d like a new saw but can’t justify it.
Thanks Danny, I appreciate you giving your valuable feedback.
my friend has the ms 261c also. he had his for 3 years now and it cuts 8 cords firewood every year . it still runs strong today
Im a little bit harsh. But to me the bar and chain are going to make the cut not straight. Improperly sharped chain will make it not cut straight. the bar will wonder. I have done this. What I recommend is to buy a couple of chains and if you hit a rock or dirt and the chain saw is struggling to cut STOP let it cool off and change out the chain. When your at that point the chain is going to require some good work to bring it back... A simple swipe wont work.... Some folks will bring them to a local shop and pay the 5 or 6 bucks to have them professionally sharpened. Pay the 20 25 bucks and get 3 4 chains ready for work that day when you know your cutting up a bunch of stuff. 261 is a Fantastic saw. You just need to grow with it.
Thanks for being gentle on me. I have a lot of growing to do with this thing, but as they say there are growing pains and I just experienced some. Great info!
As to the saw cutting straight when cutting up but cutting on a curve when cutting down. That suggests that the top/outer most surface of the bar rails are worn unevenly. To check - take the bar+chain off, remove the chain from the bar and clean the bar of debris. Then look along the bar’s groove at arm’s length. Do this on both edges along both grooves.
If either rail/s of either side of the bar is lower in comparison to its pair. Then the bar needs to be dressed, in order to allow the chain to equally ride along the rails. If the rails on one side or both sides of a guide bar is worn more than its pair. Then the chain will flop to the lower edged rail, resulting in a curving cut and probably increased vibration.
It’s a circle. A worn and sometimes blunt chain, can unevenly wear the bar. An unevenly worn bar, will unevenly wear the chain. The longer you leave the problem, the worse it gets, for both chain & bar. To dress the guide bar, requires that you know and can draw-file the bar. If you can’t draw-file, you can overcome this by using a tool made exactly for this task. I think it’s called a ‘Guide Bar Deburring Tool’ or ‘Guide Bar Dressing Tool’. Your dealer could sell you one but they’re also made by Husqvarna, Oregon, Vallorbe, Echo and are also available from Amazon for a 1/4 of the price. Basically it’s a tool that allows the user, to accurately flat file the guide bar rail or rails, at exactly 90° to the side of the guide bar, to where both rails are squared and at the same height from the base of the groove’s gullet. And or remove burrs from the edges of a worn guide bar.
It’s good practice to check for even/uneven wear of the rails, each time you clean the bar and or are flipping the bar over during routine maintenance. (Just be careful of burrs along the rails while checking.)
A guide bar will have a small amount of wear during normal cutting. However, a blunt chain will result in heavier guide bar wear. Mainly due to the operator leaning or pushing on the saw with a blunt chain. Invariably when pushing/leaning on the saw, the operator will be leaning one side more than the other. This in turn pushes the chain sideways off the bar and results in a yet greater degree of wear to both chain and guide bar rails.
Also, a blunt chain will and can require more bar oil. If a chain remains blunt, the excess friction of chain against uneven rails, can alter the temper of both chain and rails. This in turn allows the rails to wear quicker and there’s no way back from this. Once the chain and bar rails are softened, a pattern of excessive & premature wear will exist. And the kick in the knee, is that a worn chain, will prematurely wear the drive sprocket. Better to keep the chain sharp.
And as a safety note. Chainsaws are designed to be used with the left hand on the front handle and the right hand on the rear hand, controlling the power-trigger. I can see you have no concerns of possible leg injury, as you don’t wear chaps. And you have either poor hearing or want to be deaf, as you don’t wear any hearing protection. And you have no concerns of shoulder/chest/head injuries, as you’re prepared and are using a chainsaw left-handed.
Please for your own good health, wear chainsaw chaps, a minimum of 23SNR ear defenders and use the saw right-handed. If the upper quadrant of the bar nose contacts an immovable object, the saw can have a kickback event. This can also happen, if the nose is pinched along its upper quadrant.
A chainsaw kickback happens too quickly for you to avoid the upward motion. If you’re using the saw right-handedly and providing you’re not looking along the bar. The bar+chain will pass to right side of your body. If you’re using the saw left-handedly, the bar+chain will hit your body at chest+shoulder+head height. While chains seemingly slice neatly through wood. The same cannot be said of chains through flesh & bone. The wound/s will be jagged and severe. Even if you survive, they will be life changing injuries!
Yes whichever hand is holding the front handle will probably activate the chainbrake. And yes your particular saw has a chainbrake, which can be activated through sudden inertia event. But what if on that one day, your right hand or wrist doesn’t contact the chainbrake lever and for some reason the brake isn’t activated by inertia? Then it’s back to the life changing injuries.
What a beautiful piece of property You have. Nice footage, and really nice Tractor. Gave You a ‘Thumbs up’ as you seem like a very amicable fellow, and neat Granpaw. 😃
Every Landowner needs/deserves at least one good chainsaw. Having prefaced my comment on a positive note, I must point out some concerns. You handle the tractor and grapple fairly well, chainsaw, not so much. You were overreaching at times, and looked ‘unbalanced’ at other times. One must have a plan when limbing and clearing out fallen trees and big branches. It might seem like they pose no risks, but they are there. It is so easy to lose your balance, and trip over small branches, vines, etc. There were a few times you did not have control of the saw. Please be careful, and take this as merely concern fro your welfare and safety! I’m no expert, but I have been using saws for a number of years. And yes, I’m guilty of some bone headed mistakes myself! 🙄
Nobody wants to deal with a lot of safety garb especially when it is warmer outside. Please invest in some gloves, chaps, and a forestry helmet. What is price/inconvenience when weighed against injuries to ones eyes, head, limbs, etc.or even worse, a fatal outcome? You get my point. Now if any one in here disagrees on my points, that is your prerogative, but its a foolish one.
Lot of great comments in here regarding bars, chains, sharpening, etc. I would heed them. The simple act of sharpening is a whole mother big ole’ can o worms. I swear, every time I file my chains, I feel I could do better, or I learn something new. Important thing is to keep the chains SHARP! Flip your bars.
Stay safe! Peace 👍✌🙏😊
You are wise and helpful! I completely agree with all you shared. As you continue watching you will find that I have now brought in some of the safety equipment that you have recommended. I need to stay aware and focused on safety. And yes, sharpening has finally been found. You don’t know what you don’t know but thanks to you and many others who have take. The time to leave comments I am moving in a better direction. Thanks for the kind words as well. Kindness is more rare these days and your words are very refreshing and encouraging. God bless!
I don't know how much training or maintenance knowledge you have in using these saws but the MS261C is a pro saw designed for all day long cutting. Now within that using a saw with a dull chain will over heat the saw because you are using it under loads that it was not designed to be used at together with excessive bar ware and chain bluing which detempers the chain that will never stay sharp again. If I where you I would get a new chain and bar plus a good chain sharpner and go from there. Don't run it with a dull chain and keep it the correct tension and you should be ok. If you have any questions please ask... good luck Owen.
Thanks Owen, great advice.
Got a fairly new 271 in the shop. He was using it & it quit mid-cut. He was pissed! He bought it used & had it maybe a year. When I looked at it it was evident dirt was getting past the air filter. Air filter was clean but dirt was in the intake.
Another thing, a dull chain will overspeed the motor.
Bar rails are worn if it's cutting uneven with a good chain. Then again it depends on how it was sharpened.
Thank You@@darrellepickering8433 for saying that. It's not that the motor gets bogged down with a dull chain, it is because the chain is riding effortlessly on the depth gauges and doing NO work at all. The motor is just screaming its guts out. I'm wondering if the M-tronic didn't just default to the high rpm mode you get in a reset?
I watched the video. I read all the comments and your replies.
A new 261 CM doesn't get a scored bore and piston from too much oil in the fuel. You can scream until you're blue in the face but for some reason the fuel you put in to your saw most likely didn't have oil or enough oil.
Yes a bar can absolutely warp from excessive heat and heat will also blue the rail of the bar too, so if the edges of the bar where the chain seats is blue then you'll need to replace it because it is no longer safe.
Thanks! I have not noticed any blue but will take a closer look.
Cylinder scored. Not enough oil in the mix. The bar probably didn't warp ,but if you got it too hot the chain rails get ruined. Judging from your lack of ppe i assume you are not too experienced. Good luck. 👍
Make sure you're at full throttle before your chainsaw chain touches the wood
Hello, I have had that happen before. You can fix your bar! Your bar is wearing uneven on the rails that the chain runs on. If you have lack of oil flow while cutting the bar heats up quickly and wears faster. If you take off your bar and try to stand it up on the side you have been cutting on and it wound stay up then you can even the rails. Use a bar dresser or square sander. If you flip your bar and it will stand on the other side you will see what I am talking about.
Ways to prevent this? Every time you cut with your saw and finish, take off your bar, clean the rails (I use a putty knife) on both sides. Also, make sure both oil holes on the bar are cleaned out!! Blow off all dust and oil grime with a compressed air gun if you have one.
Flip your bar when put it back on. Install chain with proper tension!
Sharpen chain after every use.
Since you bar is uneven now, I would check your chain links where they ride on the bar. The chain may have worn the same way. If you fix the bar rails, the chain may still ride off center and continue to cut crooked.
I would buy a few new chains and bring them when you cut. Hitting the ground once will smoke your chain! If you have a couple sharp spares. You can quickly swap chains and keep cutting. Otherwise, time to take out the file! Hope this helps you! Learned the hard way!!
I appreciate the info. I am getting great responses from so many and ya'll know your stuff.
Take bar off lay it on a table. Flip bar over and see if the same. Look to see if bar rails are worn uneven .A worn or spread rail on bar will make a crooked cut . If flipping the bar fixes it or changes it then dress or replace. Make sure chain and bar are the same gauge. Also try a different chain. Are my first thoughts. A dull chain may let rpm`s go to high.
Most likely, if the chain is sharp, your bar grove is worm. The rail that the chain runs in, instead of being parallel, have worm down to a vee. This lets the chain wobble side to side, causing it to cut crooked.
Clean out that groove with a putty knife, turn the bar over, to extend the life. Bars sometimes can be "dressed". It is done on a special wheel. Basically if is ground down on the rails to take the vee out. If you feel the bar and there is a little roll of metal, your bar is worn.
I have several Stihl chainsaws. Stihl homeowner chainsaw (024). Pro Stihl chainsaws (MS 261c, MS 400c, MS 462c, MS 500i) used within different applications as needed. Sometimes all are used in more of a crew environment. My experience of a saw cutting a curve is generally due to cutting teeth on one side of the chain being sharper than the other. The sharper side of the chain displaces more wood disproportionally compared to the dull side causing a curve in the wood. Similarly the rakers may also be of disproportional height having the same effect as one side being sharper than the other. Replacing chain with a brand new chain blade will make it clear. If the saw continues to cut a curve with the new blade the two guide rails on bar are most likely uneven and may be fixed with a file or tool made for that purpose. Last the bar may be the issue if it has a bow/curve in the bar. As to the issue of the guide bar becoming hot or bluing on the edge, generally this is caused by a lack of proper bar&chain oil on the bar itself. Check bar oil tank for fluid, next check that the oil feed hole on the bar is not blocked or impeded, another point of concern would be if you have properly adjusted your oil flow setting , which is on the bottom of the chainsaw with a screwdriver. There is one last possibility to consider the oil pump itself has failed and will need to be replaced. Hopefully this information is helpful. Be safe in your labors.
@@JohnWoodbury-xk2cb Thanks so much John. Very good information to keep an eye on. It’s folks like you that make all of this worth while. Stay safe and God bless.
If the groove is spread open wider than it's supposed to be it will cut like that. The chain will ride sideways in the bar. I had that issue with one of mine.
Almost positive u need to file ur bar..feel down ur bar and if u feel a burr file it off..its like a wing preventing ur saw from cutting
Ignore the EPA and mix the gas with oil at 40:1 or 32:1 instead of 50:1. It will increase the lifespan of the internal components and not score everything up if the saw goes a tad bit lean in gas/air mixture, or if it overheats a bit. That little extra oil makes a huge difference. Also make sure to use synthetic 2 stroke oil.
What oil you used?
@@MrBaptiste003 motul 800 offroad
@@em4703 not a great idea using motorcycle oil in a chainsaw, but I guess you’ll find out.
@@jeffcoulter7181 No such thing as "motorcycle oil" buddy, it's 2 stroke oil for 2 stroke engines. Motul themselves recommend that specific oil for chainsaw use because it has extra cleaning additives and it's great for air cooled 2 strokes.
My 881 has ~700 gas tanks though it and the inside is looking like brand new, so are all the rubber parts, 500i even more @1600 work hours on the clock on this same oil, but I'm sure it's just about to blow up because I don't use some cheapo "chainsaw oil".
The more oil in the mix, the hotter the engine runs. That's 2 stroke 101, plain and simple.
Get a Echo...No problems with them saws. Very reliable!
Better warranty too! Had a Stihl 251C and never liked it and now own two Echos .
These are great saws but they have a weak spot, the factory oilers dont supply enough oil even for a 16" bar. I was pretty upset the first day with mine. The bar was smoking hot from some basic limbing. After a little research i ended up replacing the oiler adjustment screw with one out of a 460. Night and day difference now, plenty of oil and a well lubed cool bar. If not taken care of the extra heat will cook clutch and crank bearing not to mention overheating your bar causing it to cut crooked from uneven wear.
Great info! Thank you!
Set your rakers/depth gauges to its corresponding cutting tooth. No more crooked cutting. Your cutters can all be different lengths but as long as its corresponding raker is set to the cutter, if doesn't matter. Some people swear that different cutter lengths cause crooked cutting and they'll tell you to file them all to the same length and the crooked cutting will be corrected. That is false. Your rakers not being set to its corresponding cutter is the number 1 cause of crooked cuts. A worn out bar can also be a cause but I highly doubt your bar is worn out. Doesn't look like it has that many hours on it.
Thanks a lot. I tend to agree, I have not put tons of hours on this one yet.
A bar can absolutely warp. I just bought a Stihl, ran it for no more than 15 minutes and the bar got hot enough to throw the chain off. Took it back to the dealership who said the bar as warped. Blamed it on user error. Had to replace the bar. Merry f in Christmas.
Have a safe, blessed, and happy Thanksgiving Sean!
I hope you had a great Thanksgiving as well! Always good to hear from you.
It is not uncommon for hand filed chains to not be equally sharp left side vs. right side. This happens as those doing the filing aren't consistent from one side to the other.... even if they count strokes. Factors like how much of the file is used, the amount of pressure applied, and the consistency of the stroke all have an impact. For example, paying attention to the sharpness of the very corner of the tip is more important than counting strokes.... For example, the corner of the pointy Stihl Rapid Super yellow box chains. The cutting edge of the green box chains needs to be consistently sharp too.... you have to look at the edge and see if it's sharp. Draw filing the bar to keep the edge square to the sides and to remove burrs should be a regular part of saw maintenance as is flipping the bar regularly.
Running a dull chain itself doesn't hurt the engine but digging the bumper spikes in (dogs) and torqueing on the handle to force the saw to cut does.
I don't recall you mentioning what you use for gasoline or the ratio of oil to gas... too much oil increases carbon build up and causes the saw to run leaner than it should. I recall a guy in another forum running 40:1 instead of 50:1, plus marvel mystery oil, plus some other oil thinking that more oil would decrease wear... instead it led to a heavy carbon build up and chunks of carbon would break off and score the piston and cylinder. Use the recommended ratio and non-ethanol gas of 90+ octane for best results.
With proper bar and chain maintenance I've run Stihl saws until there was no paint left on the bars while the groove was still deep enough and tight enough, and the edge square enough, to keep successfully using them. The pistons and cylinders were also clean. BTW, from what I've seen, Stihl bars appear to be blued along the edges (under the paint) coming from the factory. Apparently it happens as part of the manufacturing process. As such, the discoloration by itself isn't a sure sign a bar was run too hot. Using real bar oil is important too... this as it has additives to make it sticky so it stays on the chain and lubricates all the way around. Things like used motor oil don't do that... and they contain contaminants.
"Need a sharp chain or ruin your saw" sounds like a rural legend to me. Maybe if you force the saw and put too much load on it... maybe. But all a dull chain by itself will do is fail to cut.
Let me say this, I bought a brand new Stihl 180C limber which in principle sounded great. It’s been a disaster. Chains keep flying off, and no I’m not over or under tightening them. Been buying new bars, new Stihl OEM chains, proper lube etc. my captured chain catcher on clutch cover was so badly mauled it is gone but Stihl won’t warrant the problem. That said, I’ve gone to my Husky 545 mark II and no problems
generally scored pistons are caused by running lean, whether thats not enough fuel/oil mix running through, or not enough oil in the mix. also, it is very possible to warp/bend a bar, but usually cutting at an angle is caused by one side of the chain being sharper than the other
The epa requires them to have them set as lean as they possibly can… and with the new jet limiters, even at the max open setting they can get starved of oil (since lean on a two stroke means a lot less oil)
You need to flip your bar every once in a while. I would take a guess you had an air leak in the saw or you didn’t use a good oil or the right oil gas mixture. I been using Stihl pro saws for years. Never had a problem. But I have seen air leaks in saws before and it will do your piston and cylinder in.
hi just wanted to tell you that you need to flip the bar over each time you sharpen the saw if the chain is cutting to the left sharpen the right side a lil more and vice versa for the right and check your bar and make sure it did not spread apart which will make your chain cut crooked and make sure you file the rakes every other chain sharpening just thought this might help you some
Man thanks for that! I am learning and it's because of you and other like you, so keep it coming! Have a Merry Christmas!
By the way, I like the name tinman, it was my call sign in the military.
@@TheLovelyPlace thank you for your service i wanted to serve but wasn't accepted at the time merry christmas to you also tinman was one of my cb handles when i was working i'm disabled now
Use your right hand on the trigger and your left hand on the front handle . Nice place for sure! ✌️
i bought one years ago, first time i ever got that brand and did so because everyone said how great the older ones they had were. a brand new saw would work fine the first time and after i shut i off for a break and tried to start it again it would never start the second time. i had others try it just to make sure i wasn't me but nope it only ran the first time, never on a second attempt no matter what we did. i will never use that brand again they're just not reliable, especially considering how much more they were charging versus other brands at the time..
Cause of dull chain and not having the chain oiler on max oil flow and heating up the saw so much and scoring the piston and cylinder walls will ruin any brand of chainsaw. What you need to do is take the bar off and do bar maintance. The bar rails are not parallel any more. That"s why the top side cuts straight. And after you sharpen chain flip your bar over every once in awhile. I was a logger for 10 years and learned all this stuff. Now i over haul chainsaws for hobby. Look up chainsaw bar maintaince on youtube and you'll see why it cuts crooked.
check edges of bar it may be rolled out . If it is file the burred edges flush. This makes them hang up and cut crooked every time if excessive,
And yes flip your bar and dress your bar when needed and make sure the bar is straight and having a new round file and flat file on hand always helps
My 261 has almost never cut straight. The bar warps easily and/or wears out the groove and then it cuts crooked. I've replaced the bar twice and after a few logs, it cuts crooked again. A Stihl 261 is expensive for a saw that can't cut straight. I'm juts a homeowner not a pro and the 261 is just not a durable product for me.
Man that's too bad to hear. I am afraid you are right about that.
HEA I know you... Your the guy at the pit when we go shooting that says My rifle isnt accurate. My pistol isnt accurate. My guns all jam and dont work... See a trend... Saying the Legndary 261 The Son of the Great 026 and the 260 is a bad product because you dont know how to operate it correctly is a bold move... That saw is FANTASTIC. Ive been around them Lots and they all preform awesome. And you see it in My videos as proof. I used it many of my videos. Chain saws are not just gas and go tools. You need to know how to run one. anyone can pull the trigger...
@@LiveFreeOrRIP WTF are you talking about? I run a business, I own about 6 saws, but the 261 is very fussy. If it's just me, why do my 024s and 026s cut straight?
Any chance you accidentally ran straight gas in the saw? If so, the piston will score after a coupIe tanks (no more residual oil). I mention this because I had a guy on the farm do this to one of my saws. He thought he had mixed the oil into the gas but he omitted it by mistake.
No chance on that for sure. I have a 1 gallon can that I use exclusively for the saw and for my leaf blower. It's always mixed correctly, Good thought though. Thanks!
Take your bar off flip it up side down. and run it that way. It allows even bar wear. Also check it for any burring. Make sure the sprocket feel free.
A couple tanks? It will score in 2 minutes. Omg!!
@@sawmanbigtreeslayer2360 It will melt the piston rings into the piston after about 5 mins cutting, I did it on a husky and they have softer bore liner metal than a still.
I managed to straight ‘oil’ mine once, but woke up before I went to start it.
When I bought my first chainsaw 2 years ago I bought a homeowner ms211c. I managed to dull the chain in the first 2 minutes of cutting. No one told me hitting the dirt was bad! Then proceeded to cut some more with it. Shortly after I mean within 20 minutes a good portion of the bar paint came off. I had had it 1 day!!! So chain on too tight and dull chain. Heats up bar. You don’t need a new bar. I have used that Ms211c bar for another 2 years now. Looks beat to hell. Talked to a buddy of my mine that schooled me on chainsawing. He’s got 4 stihls. Bought a 2in1 sharpener for that ms211c. Watched some RUclips videos. Got it screaming sharp in under 5 minutes. Had dulled the chain quite a bit. But after I learned what not to do anymore (hit dirt) and learned how to sharpen with that 2in1 I used that chain and filed it probably 100x before retiring it and had cut probably 7 cords of wood with it. Last nov 2021 I upgraded to a ms462C. After several cords of cutting and the experience of knowing when to stop and sharpen and how much to tension the chain I barely have maybe a couple of spots of missing paint on the bar (from maybe being pinched and then twisting the bar to get out). Wrong oil mixture or straight up no oil or dull chain like said scored your piston. I know a guy that that killed his ms291 as he had little experience and kept running the saw even when the chain was dull. Learn how to use the 2in1. Even super dull chains it can bring back to life. I use a 28” bar and was cutting a log once on a hill but didn’t realize the front of the bar had been contacting dirt for a good 10-15 seconds. Left side of the chain all broke! I spent some time filing them back to sharp. Left and right side were totally at different lengths. Didn’t matter. Once it was all filed to sharp again it cut straight Eventhough the left side teeth were half filed away to fix all the broke off tips.people that say the 2in1 is no good don’t have a clue what they are talking about. All I’ve used for 2+ years. No need to pay someone to sharpen a chain unless it’s real bad or you’re just too lazy 🤣 all these you need to get a new bar comments are nonsense. You’ll not likely wear that bar out other than remove the paint. Don’t tension the chain too tight and LIFT up the bar as you tension it. If you don’t the second you cut the bar will lift up and the chain will appear loose again.
Your comments are reassuring and much appreciated. I will make this my initial focus. I already own the 2 in 1 sharpener and have used it. I think the damage had already been done to the original saw by the time I realized my error of not having it sharp enough. I should have done a lot more. research before using it. I just didn't realize the extent of upkeep required until it was a little too late. Thanks!
@@TheLovelyPlace kinda trips me out the Stihl dealers don’t educate or ask questions when selling a saw. They didn’t ask me anything either when I bought my home owner saw. I think it also depends on the dealership. Some honestly aren’t very educated. The 2in1 sharpeners are the best! And the replacement round files are $2 each. The flat file is $10. But it’ll last a few years before you need new files
The chain looks sharp and as you observed, it's not cutting in a curve, so I don't see the problem? If the cut is slightly angled it may be the way you're holding the saw. That bar has got hot some time in the past, but doesn't look like it's causing a problem now.
I have a sthil ms381 pro saw 15 years old no problem but i dont know if the new saws are made differently i dont know but the build quility is good but i wonder is the new stuff badly made vs old .
If you're cutting with a chainsaw that gets damaged from a dull blade, then that chainsaw isn't worth owning.
Also, if you're running a chainsaw with the blade getting hot and overheating, then there is something wrong with the automatic oiling system. These newer chainsaws are designed to be self oiling in order to keep the chain and bar cool. When you are seeing the blade getting hot to the point of scoring and blackening, then the chain bar is not getting the oil it needs. Even if it's getting oil, it's obviously not getting enough oil.
So that said, either the oiling well is clogged, or the automatic oil pump is bad and must be replaced. There is absolutely no reason for a chainsaw blade to be getting hot to the point of burning.
In answer to your query, yes. Yes, a chainsaw blade will warp if it gets too hot. The other issue that may be causing the chain to create heat and friction that causes it to overheat, is applying too much downward and side pressure to the tool while cutting with it. A properly sharpened chainsaw will cut the wood on its own without a need for you to apply downward pressure. Doing so will only cause friction that can overheat and ruin the chainsaw blade. Judging from the burn scoring on your blade, that blade is ruined and must be replaced. It isn't just a matter of the chainsaw blade overheating. It can cause binding, which in turn can break the chain, or worse. An overheated and warped blade can cause dangerous and deadly kickback that is too powerful to control. Kickback can happen instantly and without warning. this is why the dog teeth at the front of the motor chassis must be engaged in the wood while cutting. The dogs will minimize or prevent dangerous kickback.
The action of the cutting chain is designed to draw and pull the chainsaw and blade towards and into the log being cut. This ensures proper engagement of the dog teeth to minimize or prevent kickback.
Get a new blade. Learn how to use your chainsaw safely and effectively. You are contributing to the problems and the issues you're experiencing because of improper use of the saw. I grew up using chainsaws. Everything you described stems from and shows a lack of adequate and safe understanding of how to use a chainsaw effectively and safely.
So, here's what you need to do. Buy a new blade and chain. Send the old blade and the chain to a metal recycle center or send it to the landfill. By using that burnt and possibly warped chainsaw blade, you are endangering yourself and others around you. And, you're wrecking your chainsaw engine by making it work too hard.
When you cu and asking for answers turn music off . The sound provides lots of answers
It could be incorrect depth gauge height. or the wrong gauge chain is being used (Or the groove is warn out and too wide), or one of the rails is higher than the other...
thanks for the video, just subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Was the scoring on the piston on the intake or exhaust side?
All saws need to run with a sharp chain. Just like if you take up woodworking / joinery, you need to become a master sharpener of your tools. Cutting with a blunt chain generates a lot of heat which can lead to things like the seals failing causing an air leak, which then makes the saw run lean and causes failures. As others have mentioned, Buckin Billy Ray has a whole heap of 30+ minute videos on sharpening.
If you aren't confident in your sharpening and want to work out why the saw is cutting crooked, just buy a new chain and cut with that. If it cuts straight out of the box, your sharpening on the old chain is at fault. If it cuts crooked with a new chain, your bar is at fault. It could be bent from heat or pinching, or the rails might be worn or uneven and need dressing.
Man you guys know your stuff. Comes with time and experience I am sure. I never imagined that my saw chain could have been dull enough to cause any issues, but it could have been the case. As for the piston, the service manager didn't say, he was kinda vague in his description. I question the whole service experience but now I have a different saw and I am going to follow all of this great advice. I really appreciate it all.
You’re asking for help as to why you blew up your last saw yet when you start cutting you have the music in the video cranked up so loud you can barely hear the saw. Are you left handed? Because your holding the saw wrong. The top handle is angled for your left hand not your right. It’s scary to watch you run it it looks like you’re either going to cut your leg off or get the bar and chain in the face. Buy some chaps and a helmet and shield. Not a bad idea to have steel toe boots either.
You need to find a new STIHL dealer…. If the STIHL dealer would have fallowed STIHL’S diagnostic procedures. They would have found the problem in like 3-5 minutes and a experienced technician would have found in like a min or less.
I do not disagree with you on that.
Step 1 pull the muffler.
Step 2 see the piston is Toast and cooked.
Step 3 your saw was over heated from 2 things. Dull chain. Or Wrong gas. Either shouldn't be covered in my opinion... If you burn up a saw from being a dumb shit then why should you get a warranty...
@@LiveFreeOrRIPI’d say lack of knowledge. They really should educate you what to do and not even buying a chainsaw.
An air leak will also cause scored piston, rings, and cylinder. Leaning out the air/fuel mixture. Surprised he got a new saw from Stihl.
@@mikespain8655 A good dealer would do what ever it takes. And works the system. I know when I was at a dealer ship we had a few catastrophic failures. And just replaced them with new units. Really the dealer controls a lot.
Turn the bar upside down on the saw and try it see then if its opposite of what it was doing, if so then its bent if not then operator error maybe….
If the rakers are not filed properly it can cause the saw to cut funny. I'd try try touching them up.
Don’t take this comment as being a smart-ass reply but just buy a new bar and see if it makes an improvement to your cut.
You can also have the service dept. dress the bar. They will plane it evenly on both sides or you can do it yourself at home if you take your time but it sounds like there is a minuscule bend in the bar. Which in that case if it was my saw I would put a new bar on it.
Just had a ms 261 I bought in may of 2021 engine failure 7 months past warranty date as well.
Cutting on an angle is uneven sharpening of one side of chain teeth to the other side, taking more material off one side / set of chain teeth
The ms 261 is great chainsaw!Basically you need use fresh gas or motomix.
Absolutely a must!
It’s a great saw when it doesn’t have the “c” at the end of it.
If your chain is so dull that you overload the engine your arms must be pretty sore pushing on the saw. If you see fine sawdust instead of large chips, the chain is dull and needs to be sharpened or replaced. Warping the bar from overheating seems unlikely to me.
Bsutton is absolutely correct!!! Either one side is sharper than the other or one sides teeth are longer than the other. Your chain may need gauging which is an adjustment on the rakers of the chain.
Or the teeth on one side are sharpened at the wrong angle compared to the other side. 35 degrees instead of 30. Use a file guide to help with that, it's easy to get them wrong after repeated sharpenings.
The “c” at the end is the reason why it broke. Commifornia “compliant” anything is junk. That cat chokes the engine out and keeps heat and exhaust in instead of out where it needs to be.
Interesting. That's what I heard from another subscriber previously. They said I must keep it extremely sharp at all times. As I mentioned in the video, could be the electronics that makes it so finicky.
The C means comfort feature. The comfort feature on this one being the M TRONIC. Self adjusting carburetor. The C has nothing to do with California. The C-M is found on the larger 362C, 462C, 661C
@@LeuCustomKnives The C (Comfort) feature has nothing to do with self adjusting carburettor. Comfort = recoil starter, no primer, side chain tensioner etc. M = Motronic which is the self adjusting carb.
@@dab. so the regular MS462 doesn’t have all those things you mentioned minus the M tronic? As I have read it the C-M or C-BE the letters after the C tell you what the comfort features are on the saws are.
@@LeuCustomKnives Not all 'Comfort' saws have the same features. The lettering means:
B: Quick chain adjuster
C: Comfort, for ergonomic and lightweight designs.
E: ErgoStart
M: M-Tronic, engine management system that adjusts to varying conditions such as temperature.
You'd have to ask Stihl why the 462 isn't considered a comfort saw.
im just getting into saws myself and was having a similar issue i think its 90% technique for me im gonna put duel WCS felling dogs on mine. one of my assumptions was that when im dogging in deep because i olny have spikes on one side it kinda cockeyes the saw ever so slightly this is just a theory. im gonna try to get the ok from the missus the get the felling dogs and fingers crossed a bark box on my next payday. i was running a 460 32" bar cutting roughly 28-30" red oak. i have a 038 super that is literally old as me from 1985 its my favorite out of my collection so far. i also got a few farm boss saws i use for limbing and stuff.
Sounds like you have it goin on! Good luck with all that you are doing. Great comments from everyone on here. Learning lots!
may need a new bar because it may be worn out,dont burn up another engine but seems stihl would have mentioned it. I have a 271 but went to husq 460 for bigger stuff.
Thanks for the info.
There is no intake valve on a carburetor. A dull chain can potentially overheat the engine (not motor) and score the piston, rings, and cylinder. You are fortunate you got a new $500 saw for free. It was most likely operator error.
The reason your saw is cutting crooked is because the chain isn't evenly sharp on either side. In other words each tooth on the right side of the chain needs to be the same length as the teeth on the other side of the chain.
Take your chain & bar off then see if the bar will sit up on a flat surface on its edge, if it doesn’t you will need to file the edge of the bar till it will sit up on edge. What it does it makes your chain ride to a slant which will make it cut crooked.
I can see the bar has clearly over heated at some point you must have run a blunt chain with very little oil.
The bar needs dressing so both rails are square to the side of the guide bar Sharpen you chain and ensure all the cutters are at the same length flip the bar over so the top in now the bottom and it will cut straight.
I think this will all be covered online somewhere ... Good luck
Great point!
I think you never swapped your bar after filling the chain. The colour of your is gone only on one point.
Check if there is a ridge on your bar, and if it is, file it with a flat file away. Sorry for the bad writing, I'm from Germany and not used to write English...
Gruß, Peter!
You communicated perfectly! Thank you for the advice.
You should only use a hand saw. You need fresh gas and proper fuel mixture. You need to fill your chain oiler every time you fill your gas. As the bar runs dry and gets hot it can water uneven. Get a new bar and chain .
If the chairs are too tight and you should routinely flip the bar and dress the bar also you should let the saws warm up before cutting into wood... if you do not let the saws warm up you will score the cylinder walls
Got it thank you.
Dull chain will overrev engine, leading to piston/cylinder failure. Same for any chainsaw. Other than straight gas or too lean carb, leading cause of failures.
And keep chain sharp all time
Yes indeed!
The saw cutting at an angle is usually due to the chain. Why? You are better at sharpening one side of the chain's teeth than the other side, or one side is sharpened at a different angle than the other side. Even a slight difference will cause the angle cutting. Yes, flip the bar - but the chain's teeth is where the cutting happens.
About the piston being scored - run better 2-stroke oil in your saw. I'm guessing you used Stihl Ultra. 2-stroke oils are graded, Ultra is class B. Most are Class D which means they are higher quality.
There are better oil options (Echo Red Armor, 2-stroke dirt bike oils, Amsoil Saber, and others). And I would run a little more oil in the gas than specified - so 40:1 recommended, run 32:1.
The comment from bsutton is exactly right the only thing I would and is check the raker height.
Cool that will be my first go to on it.
I use my MS261 c alot - 3 hours per week it's great. If it's pulling to the left or to one side - it's the chain. try having a pro shop sharpen the chain or try a brand new chain.
Good plan, thanks!
Did you ever think to mix oil in the gas?
My 310 with a 20 started cutting at an angle. I just changed the bar out.
you probably ran it too hot during break in. there built very tight and produces massive amounts of heat in first hour. bar curving may be one side of chain being sharper than other side.
Flip the bar over the Groove in the bar has opened up
A mufler mod would fix this in a matter of seconds along with double felling dogs that are about 4-1/2" long ,,, change the cluctch and sprocket over too an 8 pin 3/8lp skip tooth and put 29" bar on it. 💪😁
I think he already has his hands full.
Check the with of the groove it maybe too wide from wear and allows the chain to tilt in the groove.
just get a new bar and chain problem solved. I have 2 stihl chainsaws and if they blow up from the chain not being super sharp then they would be junk. As long as you sharpen your chain periodically there is no reason for it to blow up. I think you just got a defective one and people don't want it to be the saw, but i work in quality control, no matter how good you produce a product sometimes you get defective ones.
to start fresh.....dump the chain and bar for new.... a warn chain could also cause the groove in the bar the be warn at an angle.....new...new ...new......start fresh....
I think you are on to something!