I have two 261 cms. One runs an 18 inch full chisel chain. The other is set up with a 24 in bar and foll chisel skip. Both saws have cut upwards of 250 face cord and are super runners. I pulled the top end on one saw and ported it and the performance was greatly improved. I'd recommend this to anyone seeking a smaller sized pro quality tool. If you have any level of experience toss that low kickback chain that stihl supplies and you will cut faster and there will be less wear on the saw.
@@saltrock9642 you can get full chisel in green and yellow. The only thing different between green and yellow is green is low kickback and yellow is not
I can not thank you enough for pointing out the ppe which most of your fellow US folks neglect ... maybe I’m a little too germanish, but this is really so important !!!! Tell your customers to always fill up oil first, and we'll be friends ... The way you do explain things would even pass the German chainsaw license over here (yes, we do have a chainsaw license over her...) Thank you ever so much !!!
Hah I just bought this saw yesterday and for a split second I considered skipping the chaps but I did get them and ear muffs. I was so glad I bought the chaps. They’re so nice to have and peace of mind is a great thing
Dude did you tried to work 8 hrs in chaps when outside is 25+*C it's more danger due to heat exhaustion than just working without them and keep thinking wtf you doo 😅
storage season for my 261 isn't an issue, I run it year round because it starts so easy in winters in Maine. the mTronic is a game changer, I don't adjust carbs my saw does. 0 or 90 degrees it runs ghe same.
I own an MS261C. Really enjoy it too. I’ve put a lot of hard hours on that thing. Clearing storm downed trees, bucking firewood for side work, slabbing logs of various hardwood species, even blocking out carvings right down to where I can take my angle grinder and go from there! Very versatile saw. I’ve never ran anything other than Motomix. I don’t run my saw for my career so the weekends and evenings throughout the week here and there are when I use it. Motomix lasts so much longer. I find a gallon of Motomix lasting me more than several months at the rate that I cut. Haven’t had a single issue with my saw, period. Not one!
@@Carlsmower The videos that you make really helped me out a lot in the decision making process. It's my first chainsaw so I had no expectation and no standards! Your videos are actually quite valuable to a potential consumer. A good voice for the industry too. You are phenomenal
@@dwainetyncompany thank you for that we are doing our best to not only give our customers the information they need but ultimately to bring value to other dealerships around the country And heck even the world
My only issue with my 261, back when I had it years ago, was that it wasn't tuned very good from the dealership. It bogged down way too easy. So I would recommend learning how to tune your saw. I was inexperienced back then and trusted that the dealer tuned it up the way it was supposed to be and just thought it was a gutless model. So I just used my 361 instead, even when the 261 should have been perfect for the wood size I was cutting. Now I realize my saws weren't tuned for optimum performance by my dealer and it caused me to work harder than I needed to if my saws were tuned right. Maybe it was just my local dealer that did this type of thing. But I would now retune it if I had a Stihl saw underperforming, because Stihl makes really great saws and these saws I bought especially shouldn't have been running the way they were because my saws were all pro saws.
The 261 has the .325 chain rather than the 3/8 plus the winter setting allows exhaust air to blow in your face and the summer setting blocks that bad air. Wear a face mask if you have it in winter mode. I believe too that if it pops in Cold Start than just leave it in Cold Start and pull again because it will help to get it to warm up since Cold is a higher idle than Ready setting. If it fails to keep running in Ready, people start to hold down the trigger and the engine will than flood. It is better to take advantage of the Cold Start. That is my experience as a newbie with this saw.
thanks for the video. Questions: The MS362, AND 261 have similar control module / fuel solenoid issues, in that, when the original black solenoid fails (It is designed to fail between 100, and 200 hours (Thanks Stihl), and only the white solenoid is available, what control module should be used? I started with a 4705 A, I was told by Stihl that a 4706 would work, and it didn't, then I used a 4705B, and a white solenoid, (And an orange filter, an important but subtle change that one is supposed to have infused knowledge about I guess). It works for now. More importantly where can we find the information about such issues, the Stihl phone customer service folks rarely know the answers to such questions, , , , and the bigger saws also have issues with change overs, so it would be a million questions for every saw, and different reset procedures with different control module / solenoid combinations So here I sit, with an $800 saw, and another 250 into the saw (It has less than 150 hours on it), which I no longer trust. Which calibration or reset procedure does one follow when these parts are changed ?
Excellent video, only complaint is the starting sequence should have started the saw. PPE is extremely important. I have seen many saws tested or listed for sale where operator doesn't wear safety glasses, has shorts on, or wears open toe shoes. This is a saw folks, and mistakes happen fast. Where your PPE. I often wear my chaps as well. Yes they are a little bulky, yes in summer they are hot, but that saw chain doesn't know difference between wood and your legs, wear at least heavy pants with the other PPE equipment. Again , excellent video, and it's obviously that the demo person isn't doing this for first time, he is knowledgeable and excellent as well
Excellent videos-- Thank you!! Shopping for our first saw, as we had our first maple fall recently... Wish y'all had a store in Olympia WA(!) We do however have a good Stihl dealer nearby. Thanks to your videos we've decided on the 261 without the digital M-tronic,-- too many digital things in our lives already... at least for this over-50-guy :D
You are supposed to hold it at full throttle until you hear it change sounds, it tells all about it in the owners manual. That’s only on the first start up
I’m looking at buying a new saw. Actually my first saw. I was looking at the 271 and the mechanic at the store was telling me that it was a decent machine for what I need. Then I watched an online review and they were talking about the 271 not being with the 261 is. I used to work for a tree company and he told me to get the 362. I’m probably only going to be using it Once in a while. I don’t have my own tree business or anything but I do plan on helping some neighbors cut down some broken branches if need be after I get the saw. I could always try to make money with it. Wondering if the 271 would even be feasible to use to do trimming and cleanups and small removals? Or do I need to go bigger? Thanks for any information you can offer.
Hi, don’t know if you got one yet, but the 271 would be enough. I was in a similar situation. I got the 261, because it’s a better made machine. Metal instead of plastic housing, lighter, more durable, easier to fix and start. If I didn’t get the 261 I’d have gone for the 250.
That was awesome, thanks! 👍🏼😎😀 I want one! What length bar is on that one? I noticed Stihl recommends a 16” bar. Do they all ship to dealers with a 16”? I want a 20” when I get one. I have a 170 -16”, 250 -18” and I’d love a 261 with a 20”. I do understand I can add one, just wondering how they arrive default from Stihl, thanks! 👍🏼😎
Which bar do you all prefer, the one in this video, or the new "Light 04" bar? The Light 04 bar looks rubbish compared to the old style, but does it cut better??
Been using HP Ultra for years. Ran a KM 131r for nearly 4 years (strimmer head, leaf-blower, hedge-cutter attachments). It did a massive amount of work, I wore the driveshaft out on it, inside those 4 years... The engine still ran fine when I sold it. I'm a gardener, so bought a new KM 131r. Don't use that cheap fuel.
Can anyone help, please? The Ms261-c ( "18 Light 04 bar) states a 4.8mm file... But, when sharpening, I'm finding that the aforementioned file barely fits in the gullet? Seems too tight and awkward to sharpen, but it states it's the correct file? Any advice, please? From "England'istan".
4.8 mm is right file for .325 chains. I think you need to use a special tool for attach your file and that tool "slide" on the flat chrome gauge when you work, it's help a lot.
@@LE_GRATINThank you. Yeah, it seemed way too tight to start with... Almost as if upon withdrawing from the sharpening stroke, it was rubbing on the tooth. After quite a few sharpenings, it seems easier now. Just thought someone might advise a smaller file, a trick/hack, or something. Might try the 2-in-1 file, but I don't like the fact with the aforementioned, that it's only one part of the file in contact... I mean you can't rotate the file, or tap/clean it without removing it. Take care out there 👍
@@ReggieChump my methode : a simple file-holder sthil ( specific to .325, be carreful to choice this one) it's cost 12€ / $ . and a small oregon tool magnetic fixing on the bar, in red plastic, with visual-lines, for maintain 30/25° angle. Simple fast, easy and very efficient for me. flat-file by hand for the racker.
@@LE_GRATINThank you so much... You're awesome! Been using the magnetic-file-plate and the saw is cutting brilliantly. That and the file in a handle is all I'm using now. THANK YOU 🙏
No flip flops?? Tell that to the crews in Indonesia...they won't listen to a word you say. I've seen them practically naked trimming and removing trees...no safety harnesses, thread for ropes, no safety gear whatsoever, free climbing; insane, however...no injuries.
Just instant death! Roll deceased to one side,dig grave, roll deceased into grave and backfill. Hey presto, job done, don’t bother with accident book lads. Nothing to see here, back to work, chop chop!
The key to easy warm starting is to allow the saw to run at idle for 5 or so seconds before you stop it so the tuning gets back to tick over, if you stop it straight off high revs it will still be on hi rev tuning when you go to re start and will be difficult to get going, hope this will help
I had an issue with a tank vent that would prevent the saw from being started easily once warm. the tank would sometimes fountain gas or spit a mist of air and gas if you popped the fuel cap open after running or sitting in the sun.
I run saws I have run them since 14 I wore chaps then while working I dropped due to heat stroke I will never wear them again. If I have to I wear arborist pants lighter comfortable and they breath a lot better they do cost half what a good pro saw cost though
I grow up around loggers my dad was even one for a few years I never seen one wear all this safety crap like chaps only good pair of pants an boots its the world we are living in
In reality accidents can happen,but learning about tension and compression in wood will greatly diminish the risk of injury. It's also good practice to offset your stance some and keep your bar and chain in excellent condition.
@@Patriot-pq1kumy dad has been a woodsman for over 40 years. He never goes without safety equipment. Its not "the world we live in" its common sense. Seen plenty of cunts who say "oh i dont need that" end up sawing straight into their leg. All of a sudden the safe guy doesnt look so stupid
@@Sgt.chickens Nah it’s common sense do not do anything stupid. You can be safe without looking ridiculous with all the “safety” stuff all over you. So aka don’t be an idiot and be aware of your surroundings and you’ll be fine. End of story.
I bought mine a week ago, $700 is the going price in Ohio with an 18” bar. Add $20 & you can get a 20” bar. With my research of reviews, the 18” seems to be the sweet spot for balance
HP ultra sucks, there are better synthetic oils out there. The carbon deposits with that oil even when running the best fuel, is crazy. Hard pass, just because its "bio degradable when spilled", that doesnt cut it when your piston gets scored to crap before 1000 hours of work instead of 3000+
Amsoil Saber also. But regardless of any oil stating that you can run 80:1 or 100:1, personally I always run a 40:1 mix. That Stihl HP Ukraine is bad. Charging what they do for an oil that still has a JASO FB rating. Come on. Super Tech from Walmart is rated FB and costs a lot less.
There is a channel redd flag works on saws and that hp ultra is jacking up exhaust port side of the piston... I have 7 saws and won't be running that caster crap anymore
All you’ve done is describe the obvious by giving a “reader’s digest” version of the saw’s manual. So stupid. You give yourself a bad name by enticing “clicks” with the video description, but then just give a bland sales pitch.
![Eminem - Fuel (feat. JID) [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t5H_CewqpKA/mqdefault.jpg)
I bought my 261 yesterday...I have put it thru its paces today and so far I love it!
I have two 261 cms.
One runs an 18 inch full chisel chain. The other is set up with a 24 in bar and foll chisel skip.
Both saws have cut upwards of 250 face cord and are super runners.
I pulled the top end on one saw and ported it and the performance was greatly improved.
I'd recommend this to anyone seeking a smaller sized pro quality tool.
If you have any level of experience toss that low kickback chain that stihl supplies and you will cut faster and there will be less wear on the saw.
My 261 went from “just a saw” to a beast with a full chisel (yellow) Stihl chain. And get a good raker gauge like the ones put out by Husqvarna.
How does it handle that 24" bar...?
What chain is the full chisel chain. My dealer keeps telling me that the blueish link chain is the only one available
@@enim83Stihl full chisel chains have a yellow mark on the box. You will notice a difference when you change over.
@@saltrock9642 you can get full chisel in green and yellow. The only thing different between green and yellow is green is low kickback and yellow is not
I can not thank you enough for pointing out the ppe which most of your fellow US folks neglect ... maybe I’m a little too germanish, but this is really so important !!!!
Tell your customers to always fill up oil first, and we'll be friends ... The way you do explain things would even pass the German chainsaw license over here (yes, we do have a chainsaw license over her...) Thank you ever so much !!!
Hah I just bought this saw yesterday and for a split second I considered skipping the chaps but I did get them and ear muffs. I was so glad I bought the chaps. They’re so nice to have and peace of mind is a great thing
@@jeffgood1580 Amen!!!
@@jeffgood1580well done, man well done: For your own safety!
Dude did you tried to work 8 hrs in chaps when outside is 25+*C it's more danger due to heat exhaustion than just working without them and keep thinking wtf you doo 😅
storage season for my 261 isn't an issue, I run it year round because it starts so easy in winters in Maine. the mTronic is a game changer, I don't adjust carbs my saw does. 0 or 90 degrees it runs ghe same.
I own an MS261C. Really enjoy it too. I’ve put a lot of hard hours on that thing. Clearing storm downed trees, bucking firewood for side work, slabbing logs of various hardwood species, even blocking out carvings right down to where I can take my angle grinder and go from there!
Very versatile saw.
I’ve never ran anything other than Motomix. I don’t run my saw for my career so the weekends and evenings throughout the week here and there are when I use it.
Motomix lasts so much longer. I find a gallon of Motomix lasting me more than several months at the rate that I cut.
Haven’t had a single issue with my saw, period. Not one!
Sounds like you are doing all the right stuff thanks for the feedback and keep enjoying the incredible chainsaw
@@Carlsmower The videos that you make really helped me out a lot in the decision making process. It's my first chainsaw so I had no expectation and no standards!
Your videos are actually quite valuable to a potential consumer. A good voice for the industry too. You are phenomenal
@@dwainetyncompany thank you for that we are doing our best to not only give our customers the information they need but ultimately to bring value to other dealerships around the country And heck even the world
I just got one is it really that great of a saw a lot of people rave about it I hope I like it as much it seems to be great 👍
@@valqueenofValhalla You definitely made a good decision in your purchase. I couldn't be happier. Honestly.
My only issue with my 261, back when I had it years ago, was that it wasn't tuned very good from the dealership. It bogged down way too easy.
So I would recommend learning how to tune your saw. I was inexperienced back then and trusted that the dealer tuned it up the way it was supposed to be and just thought it was a gutless model. So I just used my 361 instead, even when the 261 should have been perfect for the wood size I was cutting.
Now I realize my saws weren't tuned for optimum performance by my dealer and it caused me to work harder than I needed to if my saws were tuned right.
Maybe it was just my local dealer that did this type of thing. But I would now retune it if I had a Stihl saw underperforming, because Stihl makes really great saws and these saws I bought especially shouldn't have been running the way they were because my saws were all pro saws.
The 261 has the .325 chain rather than the 3/8 plus the winter setting allows exhaust air to blow in your face and the summer setting blocks that bad air. Wear a face mask if you have it in winter mode. I believe too that if it pops in Cold Start than just leave it in Cold Start and pull again because it will help to get it to warm up since Cold is a higher idle than Ready setting. If it fails to keep running in Ready, people start to hold down the trigger and the engine will than flood. It is better to take advantage of the Cold Start. That is my experience as a newbie with this saw.
thanks for the video. Questions: The MS362, AND 261 have similar control module / fuel solenoid issues, in that, when the original black solenoid fails (It is designed to fail between 100, and 200 hours (Thanks Stihl), and only the white solenoid is available, what control module should be used? I started with a 4705 A, I was told by Stihl that a 4706 would work, and it didn't, then I used a 4705B, and a white solenoid, (And an orange filter, an important but subtle change that one is supposed to have infused knowledge about I guess). It works for now. More importantly where can we find the information about such issues, the Stihl phone customer service folks rarely know the answers to such questions, , , , and the bigger saws also have issues with change overs, so it would be a million questions for every saw, and different reset procedures with different control module / solenoid combinations So here I sit, with an $800 saw, and another 250 into the saw (It has less than 150 hours on it), which I no longer trust. Which calibration or reset procedure does one follow when these parts are changed ?
Reply
Thanks for sharing .
Try an Echo ... for that perfect back up .
Thanks and I love my Stihl MS 261 CM!!!!!
Great video! All questions answered. Thank you for covering all the details of a saw I am considering purchasing.
EXCELLENT ,,,,EXCELLENT ,,,,EXCELLENT video and VERY informative. I JUST bought this saw today. And can't wait to start to use it, 'GOOD PRESENTATION"
thanks for the video! this was very helpful today. :D
Excellent video, only complaint is the starting sequence should have started the saw. PPE is extremely important. I have seen many saws tested or listed for sale where operator doesn't wear safety glasses, has shorts on, or wears open toe shoes. This is a saw folks, and mistakes happen fast. Where your PPE. I often wear my chaps as well. Yes they are a little bulky, yes in summer they are hot, but that saw chain doesn't know difference between wood and your legs, wear at least heavy pants with the other PPE equipment. Again , excellent video, and it's obviously that the demo person isn't doing this for first time, he is knowledgeable and excellent as well
Very good saw with reasonable power also. The weight is nice with very good balance. Good demo on the saw.
Thanks for the feedback
Carl l really appreciate you covering several things l need to know about my MS 261! Thank-You ..... mine is NOT
m tronic but very useful still.
Excellent presentation! Way to go! I have a MS261 CQ
Excellent videos-- Thank you!! Shopping for our first saw, as we had our first maple fall recently... Wish y'all had a store in Olympia WA(!) We do however have a good Stihl dealer nearby. Thanks to your videos we've decided on the 261 without the digital M-tronic,-- too many digital things in our lives already... at least for this over-50-guy :D
Great introduction Carl !
Thank you so much for an excellent explanation of how to use my STIHL chainsaw. Cheers from Sydney Australia
You are supposed to hold it at full throttle until you hear it change sounds, it tells all about it in the owners manual. That’s only on the first start up
When switching from winter to summer mode does a person need to do a reset of the saw or when putting on a 20” bar ?
Thank you very much for the awesome video on the ms 261
Flip Flops are great for chainsaw work!
😂
Steel toe Crocs in 4wd work well also
Never did that…😏🤥
Everyone knows wild man style barefoot is the only way to go.
I’ve had one for a couple years. Not bad for a little guy.
Great saw features demo, thanks for the info… keep up the good work.
great presentation. subbed.
Great review and fantastic safety advice.
Certainly a peppy little saw 💪💯
Yeah for it size it is pretty awesome machine
Wow, you nailed it!!
I’m looking at buying a new saw. Actually my first saw. I was looking at the 271 and the mechanic at the store was telling me that it was a decent machine for what I need. Then I watched an online review and they were talking about the 271 not being with the 261 is. I used to work for a tree company and he told me to get the 362. I’m probably only going to be using it Once in a while. I don’t have my own tree business or anything but I do plan on helping some neighbors cut down some broken branches if need be after I get the saw. I could always try to make money with it. Wondering if the 271 would even be feasible to use to do trimming and cleanups and small removals? Or do I need to go bigger? Thanks for any information you can offer.
Hi, don’t know if you got one yet, but the 271 would be enough. I was in a similar situation. I got the 261, because it’s a better made machine. Metal instead of plastic housing, lighter, more durable, easier to fix and start. If I didn’t get the 261 I’d have gone for the 250.
Do you need to clean this saw's spark arrestor?
Should be part of your regular maintenance. Only takes a minute to pop out the screen to check if it’s getting a buildup of carbon on it.
If you use leaded fuel, motomix, it has less build up.
Very good info...thanks
hi josh I hope you are well could you please do a video on the stihl ms151t, ms194t and ms201t
Great idea! We'll try to work these into the mix!
@@Carlsmower great thank you
That was awesome, thanks! 👍🏼😎😀 I want one! What length bar is on that one? I noticed Stihl recommends a 16” bar. Do they all ship to dealers with a 16”? I want a 20” when I get one. I have a 170 -16”, 250 -18” and I’d love a 261 with a 20”. I do understand I can add one, just wondering how they arrive default from Stihl, thanks! 👍🏼😎
Bought one today. Came with a 20.
@@jeffsmith1830 cool deal, I bought my MS 261 two weeks ago with a 20” bar, works great! Love that de-compression button! 👍🏼👍🏼🤓
This guy is the Gordon Ramsay of stihl world 🤣
great video, what length cutting bar is put on this saw? 50cm?
Do these have gas vent tube? And where the heck is it located?
Which bar do you all prefer, the one in this video, or the new "Light 04" bar? The Light 04 bar looks rubbish compared to the old style, but does it cut better??
Based sales rep.
thanks for showing me where the gas goes
"You Own a 261" ? I wish. If I did, I certianly wouldn't run HP Ultra in it that's for sure. Other than that, great video.
What’s the problem with Ultra? That’s what I’ve been using in my MS 170 for years, and I just bought a 261 with a standard carb.
Been using HP Ultra for years. Ran a KM 131r for nearly 4 years (strimmer head, leaf-blower, hedge-cutter attachments). It did a massive amount of work, I wore the driveshaft out on it, inside those 4 years... The engine still ran fine when I sold it. I'm a gardener, so bought a new KM 131r. Don't use that cheap fuel.
Where could I purchase the helmet you use?
I usually get 2 tanks of fuel for every tank of bar oil, in ALL of my chainsaws. Idk is that just me ??
That's pretty much what I get too. And usually sharpen the blade after two tanks of gas.
Great video, however the starting procedure is improper for a “C” series saw. It needs to be calibrated as outlined in the manual.
1st thing you need to do is put some holes in the muffler.. Awesome power afterwards
Do you need to adjust the carburetor after doing so?
Nope, the saw adopts to the modification
Here in hot azz Florida . We run Wession oil, since we also need oil to do our fries in the field.
Can anyone help, please? The Ms261-c ( "18 Light 04 bar) states a 4.8mm file... But, when sharpening, I'm finding that the aforementioned file barely fits in the gullet? Seems too tight and awkward to sharpen, but it states it's the correct file? Any advice, please? From "England'istan".
4.8 mm is right file for .325 chains. I think you need to use a special tool for attach your file and that tool "slide" on the flat chrome gauge when you work, it's help a lot.
@@LE_GRATINThank you. Yeah, it seemed way too tight to start with... Almost as if upon withdrawing from the sharpening stroke, it was rubbing on the tooth. After quite a few sharpenings, it seems easier now. Just thought someone might advise a smaller file, a trick/hack, or something. Might try the 2-in-1 file, but I don't like the fact with the aforementioned, that it's only one part of the file in contact... I mean you can't rotate the file, or tap/clean it without removing it.
Take care out there 👍
@@ReggieChump my methode : a simple file-holder sthil ( specific to .325, be carreful to choice this one) it's cost 12€ / $ . and a small oregon tool magnetic fixing on the bar, in red plastic, with visual-lines, for maintain 30/25° angle. Simple fast, easy and very efficient for me. flat-file by hand for the racker.
@@LE_GRATIN 👍
@@LE_GRATINThank you so much... You're awesome! Been using the magnetic-file-plate and the saw is cutting brilliantly. That and the file in a handle is all I'm using now.
THANK YOU 🙏
don't forget to install the air filter
If you purchase from our dealership everything comes assembled, but good call!
No flip flops?? Tell that to the crews in Indonesia...they won't listen to a word you say. I've seen them practically naked trimming and removing trees...no safety harnesses, thread for ropes, no safety gear whatsoever, free climbing; insane, however...no injuries.
No injuries untill their is. And when their is. Its not going to be a little ouchie.
Just instant death!
Roll deceased to one side,dig grave, roll deceased into grave and backfill.
Hey presto, job done, don’t bother with accident book lads. Nothing to see here, back to work, chop chop!
Please(anyone), what his the best starting procedure for a warm MS 261 saw? I usually end up flooding it. It’s a new saw.
The key to easy warm starting is to allow the saw to run at idle for 5 or so seconds before you stop it so the tuning gets back to tick over, if you stop it straight off high revs it will still be on hi rev tuning when you go to re start and will be difficult to get going, hope this will help
I had an issue with a tank vent that would prevent the saw from being started easily once warm. the tank would sometimes fountain gas or spit a mist of air and gas if you popped the fuel cap open after running or sitting in the sun.
Bagus sekali aku suka... ❤...
I run saws I have run them since 14 I wore chaps then while working I dropped due to heat stroke I will never wear them again. If I have to I wear arborist pants lighter comfortable and they breath a lot better they do cost half what a good pro saw cost though
I grow up around loggers my dad was even one for a few years I never seen one wear all this safety crap like chaps only good pair of pants an boots its the world we are living in
In reality accidents can happen,but learning about tension and compression in wood will greatly diminish the risk of injury. It's also good practice to offset your stance some and keep your bar and chain in excellent condition.
@@Patriot-pq1kumy dad has been a woodsman for over 40 years. He never goes without safety equipment.
Its not "the world we live in" its common sense. Seen plenty of cunts who say "oh i dont need that" end up sawing straight into their leg. All of a sudden the safe guy doesnt look so stupid
@@Sgt.chickens Nah it’s common sense do not do anything stupid. You can be safe without looking ridiculous with all the “safety” stuff all over you. So aka don’t be an idiot and be aware of your surroundings and you’ll be fine. End of story.
I like this saw.
What sword do You use, 40 cm / 45cm ??
I own the MS 211 / 35cm sword and the MS 251/ 40cm sword..👍👍
Greetings from Germany
Piet
I use a big Sword...it makes it more powaful.
Here in the states we usually run an 18" or 20" bar on the ms261.
What about the Stihl 044
Price please
I bought mine a week ago, $700 is the going price in Ohio with an 18” bar. Add $20 & you can get a 20” bar. With my research of reviews, the 18” seems to be the sweet spot for balance
How many cc
50.2 cc
Someone told me this saw has a metal body, is that true?
It has a Magnesium body.
No one makes a pair of chaps for big guys.
HP ultra sucks, there are better synthetic oils out there. The carbon deposits with that oil even when running the best fuel, is crazy. Hard pass, just because its "bio degradable when spilled", that doesnt cut it when your piston gets scored to crap before 1000 hours of work instead of 3000+
What oil do you recommend?
@@tonydalton8712 Motul 800 offroad, Echo Red Armor
Amsoil Saber also. But regardless of any oil stating that you can run 80:1 or 100:1, personally I always run a 40:1 mix. That Stihl HP Ukraine is bad. Charging what they do for an oil that still has a JASO FB rating. Come on. Super Tech from Walmart is rated FB and costs a lot less.
There is a channel redd flag works on saws and that hp ultra is jacking up exhaust port side of the piston... I have 7 saws and won't be running that caster crap anymore
Dirt and debri have entered your cylinder.
Yaatik essaha
Boots gloves
snoozer
All you’ve done is describe the obvious by giving a “reader’s digest” version of the saw’s manual. So stupid. You give yourself a bad name by enticing “clicks” with the video description, but then just give a bland sales pitch.
Terrible take
Great overview, thank you!
very good video, thank you