No I don't have a video with recommended settings. And believe it or not but that is mainly because I did not change much to the camera. For me it's all about capturing a certain mood or arhmosphere and all the technical stuf is not something that really interests me. I know we're to find certain functions when I need them but I didn't programm them anywhere specific. I just activate them when needed 😅 thanks for watching the video and your comment I appreciate it. Grt guido
My camera is the OM-D E-M 1 Mark iii, so some of these tips don’t apply, some do. Still, I appreciate your explanations of how to fine tune these features. It’s a good lesson to dig in and investigate the features of whichever model one owns. Well done!
Some of the features als apply to your camera indeed. I never owned the em1mkiii myself. Went from the em1 to the em1x. The em1x was quite simular to the em1mkiii so I know some of these tips are useful on your camera. Thanks for watching and sharing your comment. Grt guido
Oh the noise reduction on long exposures! I learnt to switch that off a long time ago when doing auroras it’s just so frustrating waiting for it to finish! Lightroom now does such a good job at Noise reduction I never use it. The camera bodies can do so many clever things can’t they As always useful tips to help us get the best from our cameras. I love as an ambassador you always try to help us too Thank you :)
The stupid thing is that I immediately turned it of on my om-1. Then every time I was in the field with om-1 mkii I could not find it and it frustrated me. And then all of a sudden I stumbled upon it luckely. I'm happy to see you like me sharing my knowledge. Will try to do it some more in the future! Thanks for watchibg and your support! Grt guido
Hello! You've touched on an important topic that affects many photographers. The compatibility and rendering of RAW files in different RAW converters are often discussed. You're absolutely right that it's Lightroom's issue if certain camera settings aren't correctly read. Each camera brand has its own proprietary settings and algorithms, which are often fully supported only in the manufacturer's software, such as OM-Workspace for Olympus cameras. The approach of a third-party RAW converter like Lightroom reading only the pure RAW data has its merits. This ensures that the fundamental image data remains unchanged, providing a uniform basis for editing. It allows users to perform consistent image editing, regardless of in-camera settings. However, it would also be advantageous if software like Lightroom offered an option to read and interpret more of these in-camera settings. This would provide photographers with more flexibility and convenience, especially if they want to maintain certain looks or settings they configured in the camera. In summary, both approaches have their validity. Ultimately, it depends on the individual needs and preferences of photographers which method is best suited for them.
This was actually the first time that I thought about switching to new software. I tried om workspace but it's just not my thing. Guess this is the negative of always having new gear first then you have to wait... lightroom does have a option to use camera profiles but i think it's not the same as what you mentioned. Thanks for watching and sharing you thoughts! Grt guido
For many years now (since I abandoned Adobe) I have used Workspace to discard shots (I love their comparison system). I then do all further processing in DXO Photolab, including the all important (for low light birding using the OM1ii + 150-400TC) DXO NR. Each to their own but it works for me.
@user-pw6ck7ew6w I should try that dxo. I've never used it. Been a lightroom user from the start abd never changed it. Did a trial of luminar but it's just not my thing. Like you say it is so personal. Grt guido
Hello Guido You know I am not an OM System user, but the best was to change accidently changing the autofocus with the nose :-). And now a tip for you. If you show something on the menue, change the language in to english. It would be better for the most viewers. For me as a german it is not so a big problem to see the menue in dutch, but viewers from other countries could have a problem. Have a nice time and I will see you :-). Grt Ernesto
You are deffinitly right here. I was editing the video and I thought to myself why didn't I turn this in English... but I had no time left to record a new video so had to release it. But I will try to remember this thanks for the tip! Thanks for watching grt guido
Hi Guido. Very valuable. Some things I figured out already. However the 12/14 bit a well as the highs/shadows stuff I didn't. Pls. keep going. Being more of a wildlife/macro/street guy I also love your landscape stuff as it brings me forward. And finally the OM-1 (MI+MII) ist really a great very versatile high end system with outstanding glasses. I love it.
I'm happy to see you could use the information. I will make some more of these videos from time to time. And yes the system is amazing. It deserves much more credit then it usually gets. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to share your comment I appreciate it. Grt guido
Couple of tips are applied for both the cameras. High res shutter delay for example. And the tips on touching the screen with your nose and the noise reduction with long exposures. All these settings are also applied on the om-1 original version. Thanks for watching and your comment. Grt guido
One important thing if you enable auto with manual focus e.g. SAF-MF, is that you should also be using back button focus, otherwise when you get that perfect focus with a little tweak of manual, half-pressing the shutter will auto focus and screw it up. Obvious to many, but not all.
I always push the shutter button halfway and then turn the focus wheel if I want to adjust anything. When you push the shutter further it doesn't focus again. But going for backbutton is also an option. Thanks for watching grt guido
Yes, you can load the camera profiles, but that is something that you can only apply after you import the files. Ligjtroom just doesn't import the files when you use 12-bit. Luckely, I finally figured out how to use it with the 14 bit, then everything goes well. Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts. I appreciate it! Grt guido
It's a great camera and not much has changed. If you don't need the live gnd then don't upgrade. For people with older cameras this is a huge step forward. Thanks for watching and your comment! Grt guido
Hi Guido Deze video’s zijn zéér welkom voor vele OM gebruikers. Ikzelf heb in de aanvang de files omgezet in dng files en daarna werkte ze prima in Adobe producten. Ton
Als je ze omzet werken ze inderdaad prima het is alleen weer een extra handeling en de noise reduction van lightroom werkt dus alleen met de off bestanden. Gelukkig nu een oplossing gevonden. Bedankt voor het kijken. Grt guido
Hello Guido! Thank you for another informative video. I'm using the OM-1 and found out that the 8omp RAW files shot in HiRes mode look different in OM-Workspace and LR. Workspace shows much better details!!! and a more neutral Histogram. Did you already do this comparison? I'm keen on your comparison between the different shooting modes. Regards from Germany, Michael
Interesting! I actually never look at images in om workspace. I just use it to import files from the camera and for updates. But I'm going to check this and see and if I see the same then I will make it in this video with the comparisons also. Thanks for watching and your comment. Grt guido
Goed filmpje Guido, de 14 bits had ik direct voor gebruik al ingesteld, net als de 80M, het is echt een megaverschil met 12 bits sowieso. Ik gebruik bijna altijd highres icm 4 sec delay met long exposures en landscapes (als het windstil is). Keep up the good work! 👍🏻
Ik zat teveel met de gedachte dat het veroorzaakt werd door lightroom. Komt natuurlijk voort uit dat ik een pre producatie model van de camera mocht testen. Ik had nooit bedacht dat 15 bit niet de standaard zou zijn. Afgelopen tijd een paar fotos genomen zo ben erg benieuwf naar de resultaten. Ik loop alleen altijd een week of 4 achter met wat ik maak en verwerk haha. Bedankt voor het kijken weer. Grt guido
@@GuidoVanDeWater ja jij had alles eerder, nu kun je er veel meer over lezen en zien ook. Altijd handig voor mij. Ik heb ook een goed stuk gelezen over die 14 bits. Wat ik alleen balen vind, is dat mijn foto's niet zichtbaar zijn op mijn telefoon als ik ze daar naartoe overzet... zo werk ik altijd om de 1e schifting op de bank snel te doen voor de tv als ik thuis kom 😂
@@GuidoVanDeWater yeah, haven’t had much time to spend time on vlogging outside because of work. So I may just take it slow and plan something big for the upcoming trip 😁 you know where it is 😂
I've seen more positive comments about dxo. I will try to download a demo and see what it's capable of. Thanks for watching and the tip. BTW you don't have to upscale anymore to 14 bit the camera can do it. Grt guido
Dank voor video! Ik begreep dat de camera het herkent, als je wil "pannen". Dus je hoeft het niet af te zetten. Mag wel, maar dan vergeet je het mogelijk weer aan te zetten
@@GuidoVanDeWater De image stabilisatie. Als je meebeweegt, herkent de camera dat je meebeweegt. En schakelt zelf de IS uit. Panning of pannen (Engels) is het meebewegen met het bewegende onderwerp
@@GuidoVanDeWater p203 van de handleiding Image stabilization applies to motion on all axes. If panning motion is detected, the camera will automatically suspend image stabilization on that axis.
Bijzonder dat was mij nog niet bekend. Waarom hebben ze dan die is1 en is2 opties erin gelaten die zijn dus nutteloos geworden. Bedankt voor de tip zal hem de volgende keer delen. Ga eerst een even checken of dat goed werkt 😅
Hallo Guido, dank voor je handige tips! Ik heb vandaag de OM 1 Mark II gekocht maar kan niet goed vinden hoe ik de auto ISO uitzet..? Ik dacht, wellicht kun jij mij dit vertellen?
Dat is een mooie camera! Hopelijk ga je er veel plezier van hebben. Eigenlijk is het heel simpel. Als je op de iso knop achterop de camera druk kan je hem op iets anders instellen dan de auto stand. Zet je hem op 200 dan staat hij daar vast op. Als je kijkt zie je dat er bij auto een waarde staat. Dit is de maximale waarde die de camera mag gebruiken als hij zelf de iso kiest. Die waarde kan je weer aanpassen in het 1ste menu en dan het 3de. Tabblad. Hier kan je een minimum en maximum instellen. Hopelijk gaat dit je helpen en zo niet dan hoor ik het wel. Grt guido
@@GuidoVanDeWateroh wat stom zeg😂…ik heb ‘m gevonden idd! Ik moet helemaal schakelen want ben van Nikon overgestapt dus naar OM. Alles zit op een andere plek of stel je net even anders in! Ik las dat jij ook een soort workshop (online) geeft waarin je de camera uitlegt? Klopt dit inderdaad. Lijkt me eigenlijk een hele fijne manier om de camera te leren kennen
@MargaMeijer niks om je voor te achamen hoor. Overstappen is altijd lastig en ik moet ook af en toe nog dingen zoeken waar ik niet uit kom. ik heb idd coaching sessies die daarvoor gebruikt kunnen worden. Er geen vast programma voor wat we doen opndat moment. De 1 gebruikt het voorntipsnover composities, de ander voor camera instellingen en weer een ander om zijn eigen fotos te bekijken en te zien waar ik tips en tricks heb. Op mijn site staat alle info. Als je dat silt vul dan even het formulier in met je wensen en op welke dagen van de week voornjoubhet beste uitkomen dan kijk ik even waar we overeen komen. Veel plezier met de camera in elk geval!
Hello Guido probeer eens de extensie voor het ibinnen halen in Lightroom te veranderen van Ori naar Orf, zo deed ik het altijd , kijk eens of het werkt. Mijn probleem met de OM-1.1 wat ik erg vervelend vindt is veel onscherpe foto's met bird tracking, tijd dat ze dit is gaan fixen
Da theb ik geprobeerd (eerste wat ik bedacht) maar helaas werkt dat niet haha. Het omzetten was de enige optie. Gelukkig heb ik met de 14 bit versies het probleem niet meer. Kan er weer lekker op los fotograferen 😅 bedankt voor het kijken. Grt guido
I thought the on camera exposure adjustment is applied to the RAW file to produce the JPG. If you set the camera to shoot JPG only and it still works its actually applying it to the JPG file. Something I prefer not to do.
The exposure compensation works on the raw files if you just use + or - but it younuse that diagram and adjust the highlights, shadows and mid tones separately then it's not applied to the raw file and only to the jpg file if you choose to use it. When only shooting raw, the diagram is useless. It actually creates problems because the screen shows something very different than the actual file in the end. Thanks for watching. Grt guido
Just by chance, I didn’t see the problem because I use DxO as the first step of my workflow before going to LR. DxO is, just test it, much better than Adobe handling ORF files as well as reducing noise without any loss in detail, and its combination with LR is very, very good. Just try.
I think you can actually get 14 bit images with a tripod and also in portable mode (page 577 instructions manual), the difference is the resolution of 80 MB tripod and 50 MB laptop, but both with 14 bits...🤔😅
They said at the introduction that you can only apply the 14 bit to the high res shots from a tripod. But when I was going trough the menu I could also activate it for the hand held shots. Didn't realise it at that point but it might be worth looking into. Who knows you will see it in the next videos somewhere. Thanks for watching and your tip! Grt guido
Leaving a comment that may be helpful for everyone using high res mode - and this applies to ALL Olympus/OM System cameras that support high res mode: Do you sharpening and noise reduction in OM Workspace. For noise reduction, tether the camera to the computer so OM Workspace can use the camera's image processor. OM Workspace extracts a lot more details from the high res RAW than Lightroom. Thomas Eichl has a fantastic guide for how to get the most out of high res mode on his RUclips channel. ruclips.net/video/Tx4kediHix4/видео.htmlsi=mAdhalPQzsgWA50_
That is an excellent video indeed. I do it in lightroom myself and have almost no issues with it. Especialy after the latest update it got much better. Thabks for watching and sharing your experience. Grt guido
Haha, I think this is not olympus / om system only. All brand hide stuff in their menus, haha. Sometimes, someone with a different brand asks me something at a workshop, and I'm like, uhhhhh 😅 thanks for watching grt guido
There are just many more options in Lightroom, especially in combination with Photoshop. Stacking images together works much better in these combi. If there was only one image, then I think it doesn't really matter what you use, but still, I'm used to Lightroom for all the edits, so I would probably stick to that. What's your preferred editing software? Thanks for watching Grt guido
QUESTION : What type of camera do you use?
OM-D MarkII - OM-D MarkIII - EM 1 X - OM 1 - OM1 MarkII
@patrickvanlerberghe873 great collection!
OM1 mark II
@gerryphillipson still have to respond to your mail I was quite busy this week. I will answer to it this week. Grt guido
It's ok Guido thanks. I've sorted it from your video! Keep busy and well.
All good. Thanks 🎉
👍
Many thanks, Guido, so very useful. Have you a video on recommended settings for the OM1 ii?
No I don't have a video with recommended settings. And believe it or not but that is mainly because I did not change much to the camera. For me it's all about capturing a certain mood or arhmosphere and all the technical stuf is not something that really interests me. I know we're to find certain functions when I need them but I didn't programm them anywhere specific. I just activate them when needed 😅 thanks for watching the video and your comment I appreciate it. Grt guido
Thanks understood.
Thank you Guido, I changed to auto focus + manual tweaking 🙏🏽
It's much easier the way I like to photograph! Thanks for watching grt guido
My camera is the OM-D E-M 1 Mark iii, so some of these tips don’t apply, some do. Still, I appreciate your explanations of how to fine tune these features. It’s a good lesson to dig in and investigate the features of whichever model one owns. Well done!
Some of the features als apply to your camera indeed. I never owned the em1mkiii myself. Went from the em1 to the em1x. The em1x was quite simular to the em1mkiii so I know some of these tips are useful on your camera. Thanks for watching and sharing your comment. Grt guido
Oh the noise reduction on long exposures! I learnt to switch that off a long time ago when doing auroras it’s just so frustrating waiting for it to finish! Lightroom now does such a good job at Noise reduction I never use it. The camera bodies can do so many clever things can’t they As always useful tips to help us get the best from our cameras. I love as an ambassador you always try to help us too Thank you :)
The stupid thing is that I immediately turned it of on my om-1. Then every time I was in the field with om-1 mkii I could not find it and it frustrated me. And then all of a sudden I stumbled upon it luckely. I'm happy to see you like me sharing my knowledge. Will try to do it some more in the future! Thanks for watchibg and your support! Grt guido
Great tips and very well demonstrated. Thanks 😊
Thanks for your comment. Happy to see you liked the video! Grt guido
Thank you for these tips Guido, I always get something of value from your videos. Keep up the good work 👍
happy to see you found something useful in it! Thanks for watching and the comment John I appreciate it! Grt guido
Hello! You've touched on an important topic that affects many photographers. The compatibility and rendering of RAW files in different RAW converters are often discussed. You're absolutely right that it's Lightroom's issue if certain camera settings aren't correctly read. Each camera brand has its own proprietary settings and algorithms, which are often fully supported only in the manufacturer's software, such as OM-Workspace for Olympus cameras.
The approach of a third-party RAW converter like Lightroom reading only the pure RAW data has its merits. This ensures that the fundamental image data remains unchanged, providing a uniform basis for editing. It allows users to perform consistent image editing, regardless of in-camera settings.
However, it would also be advantageous if software like Lightroom offered an option to read and interpret more of these in-camera settings. This would provide photographers with more flexibility and convenience, especially if they want to maintain certain looks or settings they configured in the camera.
In summary, both approaches have their validity. Ultimately, it depends on the individual needs and preferences of photographers which method is best suited for them.
This was actually the first time that I thought about switching to new software. I tried om workspace but it's just not my thing. Guess this is the negative of always having new gear first then you have to wait... lightroom does have a option to use camera profiles but i think it's not the same as what you mentioned. Thanks for watching and sharing you thoughts! Grt guido
For many years now (since I abandoned Adobe) I have used Workspace to discard shots (I love their comparison system). I then do all further processing in DXO Photolab, including the all important (for low light birding using the OM1ii + 150-400TC) DXO NR. Each to their own but it works for me.
@user-pw6ck7ew6w I should try that dxo. I've never used it. Been a lightroom user from the start abd never changed it. Did a trial of luminar but it's just not my thing. Like you say it is so personal. Grt guido
Hello Guido
You know I am not an OM System user, but the best was to change accidently changing the autofocus with the nose :-). And now a tip for you. If you show something on the menue, change the language in to english. It would be better for the most viewers. For me as a german it is not so a big problem to see the menue in dutch, but viewers from other countries could have a problem.
Have a nice time and I will see you :-).
Grt Ernesto
You are deffinitly right here. I was editing the video and I thought to myself why didn't I turn this in English... but I had no time left to record a new video so had to release it. But I will try to remember this thanks for the tip! Thanks for watching grt guido
Hi Guido. Very valuable. Some things I figured out already. However the 12/14 bit a well as the highs/shadows stuff I didn't. Pls. keep going. Being more of a wildlife/macro/street guy I also love your landscape stuff as it brings me forward. And finally the OM-1 (MI+MII) ist really a great very versatile high end system with outstanding glasses. I love it.
I'm happy to see you could use the information. I will make some more of these videos from time to time. And yes the system is amazing. It deserves much more credit then it usually gets. Thanks for watching and for taking the time to share your comment I appreciate it. Grt guido
I always appreciate the videos on camera settings and even though I have the first version Om-1 I thank you. See you next video
Couple of tips are applied for both the cameras. High res shutter delay for example. And the tips on touching the screen with your nose and the noise reduction with long exposures. All these settings are also applied on the om-1 original version. Thanks for watching and your comment. Grt guido
One important thing if you enable auto with manual focus e.g. SAF-MF, is that you should also be using back button focus, otherwise when you get that perfect focus with a little tweak of manual, half-pressing the shutter will auto focus and screw it up. Obvious to many, but not all.
I always push the shutter button halfway and then turn the focus wheel if I want to adjust anything. When you push the shutter further it doesn't focus again. But going for backbutton is also an option. Thanks for watching grt guido
@@GuidoVanDeWater I can't rely on my finger enough for that 🙂 BBF rules!
Haha everyone has its own preferences I guess I hate bbf 🤣
Thank you. So obvious now but I was one in the not so obvious camp😢
I think there is an option to load attached camera profile in Lightroom, to apply the curve (and other settings) to the RAW files.
Yes, you can load the camera profiles, but that is something that you can only apply after you import the files. Ligjtroom just doesn't import the files when you use 12-bit. Luckely, I finally figured out how to use it with the 14 bit, then everything goes well. Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts. I appreciate it! Grt guido
I feel that I will wait for a new camera release. I have the OM-1 basic and am fairly happy with it.
It's a great camera and not much has changed. If you don't need the live gnd then don't upgrade. For people with older cameras this is a huge step forward. Thanks for watching and your comment! Grt guido
Very useful tips, thankyou.
Happy to see you can use them! Thanks for watching and the comment! Grt guido
Hi Guido
Deze video’s zijn zéér welkom voor vele OM gebruikers.
Ikzelf heb in de aanvang de files omgezet in dng files en daarna werkte ze prima in Adobe producten.
Ton
Als je ze omzet werken ze inderdaad prima het is alleen weer een extra handeling en de noise reduction van lightroom werkt dus alleen met de off bestanden. Gelukkig nu een oplossing gevonden. Bedankt voor het kijken. Grt guido
Hello Guido! Thank you for another informative video. I'm using the OM-1 and found out that the 8omp RAW files shot in HiRes mode look different in OM-Workspace and LR.
Workspace shows much better details!!! and a more neutral Histogram. Did you already do this comparison?
I'm keen on your comparison between the different shooting modes.
Regards from Germany, Michael
Interesting! I actually never look at images in om workspace. I just use it to import files from the camera and for updates. But I'm going to check this and see and if I see the same then I will make it in this video with the comparisons also. Thanks for watching and your comment. Grt guido
Goed filmpje Guido, de 14 bits had ik direct voor gebruik al ingesteld, net als de 80M, het is echt een megaverschil met 12 bits sowieso. Ik gebruik bijna altijd highres icm 4 sec delay met long exposures en landscapes (als het windstil is). Keep up the good work! 👍🏻
Ik zat teveel met de gedachte dat het veroorzaakt werd door lightroom. Komt natuurlijk voort uit dat ik een pre producatie model van de camera mocht testen. Ik had nooit bedacht dat 15 bit niet de standaard zou zijn. Afgelopen tijd een paar fotos genomen zo ben erg benieuwf naar de resultaten. Ik loop alleen altijd een week of 4 achter met wat ik maak en verwerk haha. Bedankt voor het kijken weer. Grt guido
@@GuidoVanDeWater ja jij had alles eerder, nu kun je er veel meer over lezen en zien ook. Altijd handig voor mij. Ik heb ook een goed stuk gelezen over die 14 bits. Wat ik alleen balen vind, is dat mijn foto's niet zichtbaar zijn op mijn telefoon als ik ze daar naartoe overzet... zo werk ik altijd om de 1e schifting op de bank snel te doen voor de tv als ik thuis kom 😂
Some helpful info!
Thanks for watching. It's been still on your side for the past 2 weeks right? Grt guido
@@GuidoVanDeWater yeah, haven’t had much time to spend time on vlogging outside because of work. So I may just take it slow and plan something big for the upcoming trip 😁 you know where it is 😂
@CluelessRUclipsr hope you will have a great trip! Shame I can't come and visit you would have been great!
Thank a lot😊
My pleasure 🙏 ☺️
I'm using DXO Pure Raw to transform 12 bit in 14
I've seen more positive comments about dxo. I will try to download a demo and see what it's capable of. Thanks for watching and the tip. BTW you don't have to upscale anymore to 14 bit the camera can do it. Grt guido
Dank voor video! Ik begreep dat de camera het herkent, als je wil "pannen". Dus je hoeft het niet af te zetten. Mag wel, maar dan vergeet je het mogelijk weer aan te zetten
Bedankt voor het kijken 🙂 ik weet niet helemaal wat je bedoeld met pannen. Welke optie zou hij dan zelf aan zetten? Grt guido
@@GuidoVanDeWater De image stabilisatie. Als je meebeweegt, herkent de camera dat je meebeweegt. En schakelt zelf de IS uit. Panning of pannen (Engels) is het meebewegen met het bewegende onderwerp
@niekvalk voor zover ik weet doet hij dat biet automatisch daar zijn die is1 en is2 voor. Ik zal het eens navragen voor de zekerheid.
@@GuidoVanDeWater p203 van de handleiding Image stabilization applies to motion on all axes.
If panning motion is detected, the camera will automatically
suspend image stabilization on that axis.
Bijzonder dat was mij nog niet bekend. Waarom hebben ze dan die is1 en is2 opties erin gelaten die zijn dus nutteloos geworden. Bedankt voor de tip zal hem de volgende keer delen. Ga eerst een even checken of dat goed werkt 😅
Hallo Guido, dank voor je handige tips! Ik heb vandaag de OM 1 Mark II gekocht maar kan niet goed vinden hoe ik de auto ISO uitzet..? Ik dacht, wellicht kun jij mij dit vertellen?
Dat is een mooie camera! Hopelijk ga je er veel plezier van hebben. Eigenlijk is het heel simpel. Als je op de iso knop achterop de camera druk kan je hem op iets anders instellen dan de auto stand. Zet je hem op 200 dan staat hij daar vast op. Als je kijkt zie je dat er bij auto een waarde staat. Dit is de maximale waarde die de camera mag gebruiken als hij zelf de iso kiest. Die waarde kan je weer aanpassen in het 1ste menu en dan het 3de. Tabblad. Hier kan je een minimum en maximum instellen. Hopelijk gaat dit je helpen en zo niet dan hoor ik het wel. Grt guido
@@GuidoVanDeWateroh wat stom zeg😂…ik heb ‘m gevonden idd! Ik moet helemaal schakelen want ben van Nikon overgestapt dus naar OM. Alles zit op een andere plek of stel je net even anders in!
Ik las dat jij ook een soort workshop (online) geeft waarin je de camera uitlegt? Klopt dit inderdaad. Lijkt me eigenlijk een hele fijne manier om de camera te leren kennen
@MargaMeijer niks om je voor te achamen hoor. Overstappen is altijd lastig en ik moet ook af en toe nog dingen zoeken waar ik niet uit kom. ik heb idd coaching sessies die daarvoor gebruikt kunnen worden. Er geen vast programma voor wat we doen opndat moment. De 1 gebruikt het voorntipsnover composities, de ander voor camera instellingen en weer een ander om zijn eigen fotos te bekijken en te zien waar ik tips en tricks heb. Op mijn site staat alle info. Als je dat silt vul dan even het formulier in met je wensen en op welke dagen van de week voornjoubhet beste uitkomen dan kijk ik even waar we overeen komen. Veel plezier met de camera in elk geval!
❤ macht gut!
Danke sehr! Grt guido
Hello Guido probeer eens de extensie voor het ibinnen halen in Lightroom te veranderen van Ori naar Orf, zo deed ik het altijd , kijk eens of het werkt. Mijn probleem met de OM-1.1 wat ik erg vervelend vindt is veel onscherpe foto's met bird tracking, tijd dat ze dit is gaan fixen
Da theb ik geprobeerd (eerste wat ik bedacht) maar helaas werkt dat niet haha. Het omzetten was de enige optie. Gelukkig heb ik met de 14 bit versies het probleem niet meer. Kan er weer lekker op los fotograferen 😅 bedankt voor het kijken. Grt guido
I thought the on camera exposure adjustment is applied to the RAW file to produce the JPG. If you set the camera to shoot JPG only and it still works its actually applying it to the JPG file. Something I prefer not to do.
The exposure compensation works on the raw files if you just use + or - but it younuse that diagram and adjust the highlights, shadows and mid tones separately then it's not applied to the raw file and only to the jpg file if you choose to use it. When only shooting raw, the diagram is useless. It actually creates problems because the screen shows something very different than the actual file in the end. Thanks for watching. Grt guido
Ignore my previous question….you obviously prefer lightroom
Haha only saw this now so the answer is on the other question. Grt guido
Just by chance, I didn’t see the problem because I use DxO as the first step of my workflow before going to LR. DxO is, just test it, much better than Adobe handling ORF files as well as reducing noise without any loss in detail, and its combination with LR is very, very good. Just try.
More people mentioned this in the past so maybe I should give a try sometime. Thanks for the tip! Grt guido
I think you can actually get 14 bit images with a tripod and also in portable mode (page 577 instructions manual), the difference is the resolution of 80 MB tripod and 50 MB laptop, but both with 14 bits...🤔😅
They said at the introduction that you can only apply the 14 bit to the high res shots from a tripod. But when I was going trough the menu I could also activate it for the hand held shots. Didn't realise it at that point but it might be worth looking into. Who knows you will see it in the next videos somewhere. Thanks for watching and your tip! Grt guido
Eating from your no(i)se..😂😂😂
Hahaha i should have made that joke. Good one 😅 thanks for watching grt guido
Thank a lot for 14 bit just find it 😂
Strange that it is bot on immediately, right? Thabks for watching grt guido
@@GuidoVanDeWater yes should start with 14 choice12
@GuidoVanDeWater now I took a lotvof macro 90mm.3.5 wonderful plus mc40
Mc40?
@@GuidoVanDeWater sorry 14
Pls write om Systems
What do you want me to write them about?
@@GuidoVanDeWater all your suggestions
@stehlealexander haha I will do my best 😅
Leaving a comment that may be helpful for everyone using high res mode - and this applies to ALL Olympus/OM System cameras that support high res mode: Do you sharpening and noise reduction in OM Workspace. For noise reduction, tether the camera to the computer so OM Workspace can use the camera's image processor. OM Workspace extracts a lot more details from the high res RAW than Lightroom.
Thomas Eichl has a fantastic guide for how to get the most out of high res mode on his RUclips channel. ruclips.net/video/Tx4kediHix4/видео.htmlsi=mAdhalPQzsgWA50_
That is an excellent video indeed. I do it in lightroom myself and have almost no issues with it. Especialy after the latest update it got much better. Thabks for watching and sharing your experience. Grt guido
I am olyfan they always happy to hide some thing on there menu555normal😂
Haha, I think this is not olympus / om system only. All brand hide stuff in their menus, haha. Sometimes, someone with a different brand asks me something at a workshop, and I'm like, uhhhhh 😅 thanks for watching grt guido
Why don’t you use proprietory OM system software…it’s apparent great and best suited to Olympus?
There are just many more options in Lightroom, especially in combination with Photoshop. Stacking images together works much better in these combi. If there was only one image, then I think it doesn't really matter what you use, but still, I'm used to Lightroom for all the edits, so I would probably stick to that. What's your preferred editing software? Thanks for watching Grt guido
Not really 🤷♂️I like lumix g9ii is better 🎉
Everyone has his own taste I guess. Hope you take some great shots with yours! Thanks for watchibg anyway. Grt guido