When my fans failed, it was easier to drop front bumper, remove top crossmember, tilt the radiator/condenser assembly forward and lift the fan up like a cartridge
I posted this comment and plea for insight/advice in Part 1 video as well. Great Video, the visual procedure in conjunction w/the verbal instructions/explanations and notes are excellent. My vehicle is a 2008 SAAB 9-3 2.0T (B207 engine; Convertible). Engine and Transmission run smooth, has 202K miles. A/C issue: I turn engine on with A/C set to Full Blast (Driver & Passenger) w/cabin Circ. on, cold air begins to blow, but after 15 seconds coldness gradually declines to warm. I repeat and notice that Compressor Clutch initially engages/rotates then stops after 15 seconds. I checked A/C Compressor Relay and respective circuit slots, and all good with power. Hooked refrigerant gauge (only) to high press. line and needle went into the RED Zone (beyond the Green/Full psi zone), so had a mechanic fully evacuate High and Low Press. lines and refill-balance. No change in Red Zone reading and Compressor Clutch stop. Had A/C Diagnostic done, ...possible Cooling Fan Relay Box/Module at fault, so replaced w/new, w/no change in result. Eventually located a Certified SAAB Mechanic (many, many years), he stated that car had many P-Codes, and that my newly installed Cooling Fan Relay needed to be programmed/married to ECM/ECU (T8 Module/ Trionic Unit), would take an hour or so. "OK"...2 hours later he called and said "Bad News" ...SAAB is DEAD.... ECM Died...car will not start. Me: WHAAAAT ??!!?? So, Mr. Flying Mechanic DIY, can you please give me some insight as to how this can happen? How does an ECM "die" while programming marrying to another part ?!? I'm thinking he accidentally short circuited the ECM, but then How do I know. He wants to charge me 200USD for handing back a DEAD car that was dropped off as a perfectly smooth running.
Hi, This is an excellent video guide. I am having a same issue with, coling fan modul changed already but problem stayed. I have the same engine however there is single fan instead of double. 2 questions: can be replaced my single fan unit to double fan unit? if not could you send me part nu of single fan? Thank you
I never worked on a single fan car, but if the connector coming from the car side into the relay module is the same as in my video (2 powers, 2 grounds & 3 control wires) then u a dual fan setup should work for u . For the part number i need ur car VIN, so i can provide u with accurate info ..
hola @TheFlyingMechanicDIY tengo un 2.8 2009 9-3 y el ventilador queda encendido cuando apago el motor, entiendo puede ser un rele que no se desconecta, tambien tengo un 2.0t 2008 9-3 ¿el modulo de reles es el mismo en ambos autos? le agradezco su respuesta
Do you know if the fan works the same on the v6 models? I don’t really have a way of manually activating the fans so I don’t know if one is working or not. I know the passenger side fan comes on because it stays on after I turn the car off and I can see it spinning (also it kicks on when I have the car idle). Though I haven’t seen the driver side fan kick on yet, not sure if it only kicks on at higher coolant temps (220+F)? Or if my fan is not working. Any advice?
Both fans should work together at any speed .. at speed one, if either fans are faulty then both fans will not work, at other speeds only the faulty fan will be off. With ignition off, and coolant temp above 103c speed 2 is commended ON, that mean both fans should run, and since ur driver side does not, then it is 99% faulty
06 saab9-3 2.0t cooling fan The fan does not operate even when the right side of the cooling fan is turned on The cooling water does not work even if it boils Is it a motor problem? (left handle) Are both cooling fans the same size??
If one fan is not running it is most probably burned, fans must always run together. If a fan burns, sometimes it burns the fuse with it and even the fan control module. If one fan is burned, then after running with engine off is disabled . Bothe fans have the same dimensions, but different amp rating and different connector (the connector can be modified to fit both sides) . Last thing, if one fan burns the second fan will burn soon after, suggest replace both fans at the same time.
Hello , i have an alfa 159 1,9 jtdm it have only one big cooling fan , so my problem is when i turn on the AC the fan doesn't turn on at any speed maybe sometimes it just turn on and off , I only get cold air when i'm on highway . I tried disconnecting the water temperature sensor and the fan turned on maximum speed and so i got very cold air from the AC . my question is could it be the Fan regulator or module just like the one you changed ? by the way my thermostat is locked open so the engine is getting hard to get hot . hope you can help thanks .
I will have to look at wiring diagrams for ur car to have a better judgment of whats going on, but it looks to me like u might have an issue with ur AC pressure sensor or related signal
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY hello, I have this same problem, AC is charged, fan works for cooling system just fine, but not for ac system, compressor kicks on but not the radiator fan. Would that be a problem with the Blower motor resistor located under the glove box? Or should I go to the AC pressure sensor? Thank you
Hello, I plan to do this myself. I have the 2006 model and noticed the cross-member is different to your later facelift model. I’m assuming I have to remove even more bolts and larger cross-member?
Hi. Please help me understand this. My 2008 Saab 93 blows cool air out of the left AC vents and warm air out of the right ones. Gas is full. Someone said it could be cooling fan issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Its 100% low charge .. looking at manifold gauges is not enough to say if the gas full or not. U will need a recovery machine to pull the current gas, and re-charge with the correct amount .
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thank you for the prompt reply TFMDIY. Sorry for not including some key detail earlier. The cooling becomes okay at higher speeds. The fans are running too slow. They used to be louder. Today during rush hour slow driving the Temp gauge moved past normal. It came back after i moved. The AC was switched on all the time. Could it be the relay/module? I replaced both fans 3 years ago with Saab genuine parts. Any thoughts. TIA
If temp went higher than horizontal u need to diagnose that first, it maybe not related, but u dont want to cook ur engine, the temp gauge will indicate horizontal whenever the temp is between (80-115c) anytime it leaves horizontal it means it is getting really high. I would recommend looking at the temp with a scan tool as well. Now tell u the truth, for cooling purposes the fans should never run higher than the 1st speed which is the lowest speed , the reason u r used to hear them run high and not anymore is actually the reduced pressure in the A/C system, u will have to understand that fans are not only commanded ON to cool the coolant but as well to reduce pressure in the A/C system so if u dont hear them run high anymore it usually means low pressure in the A/C system .. if u dont want to spend the money on a shop to use a recovery machine and re-charge the proper amount to the system, buy a 1lb Refrigerant can from any parts store and add it to the system and u will find out the results quickly. Hope i explained well
Hello. I have a Tech 2 and tested all the fan speeds (1-4). I only had both low speed on stages 1 and 3, nothing on stage 2 and left full speed and no right for stage 4. I have a P0693 code : Cooling Fan 2 Control Open/Short. I replaced the relay and Fan 2, both brand new, but the problem and the code is still there. Any suggestions? I don't think it's fan 1 since I don't have a code for it and I don't think it's the ECM either.
The fans has nothing to do with this code, and the code simply means u lost control of speed 2,3 &4 .. which means u lost the ground control on pin4 on the relay module, that couldve been simply tested by a test light while running speed 2 by the scan tool attaching a test light between pin4 and battery positive, and if doesn’t light (which most probably will not as the code indicate) u r left with either a bad wiring between ECU pin A33 and Relay module Pin4 (and that can be easily tested and repaired if it is the case) and if the Wiring is good, then bad ECU. And from experience, it is a very common ECU failure to generate codes from P0691-P0696
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Ah! I actually did do that with a test light. (Your video helped, thank you.) As you said pin4 didn't register. So before I have to replace the ECU, where would the wire between the ECU and the relay module be?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thank You! Turns out there was no continuity because wire that connects pin A33 was exposed and fully corroded. So I cut the section and soldered new wire in. Now I have continuity to Pin4 of the relay and it engages the A/C. I'll be putting in a spacer for the ECU so it's off the manifold. Thanks again!
Do I follow the same steps if both my fans don't go on when I turn the a.c on? I haven't heard my fans go on after a drive to cool off the engine like it used too. Will I have to replace the fan like you did?
If the right fan fail, both fans will not run on speed 1. U can use an advanced scan tool to command all the speeds from 1-4 and monitor if any of these speeds work, and if both fans run at any speed, do u have a scan tool ?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY no sir none. Like I said I just noticed how I wouldn't hear the fans go on turing the car off after a drive and they will almost always go on for a bit then turn off. And I was told by someone if I turn the a.c on both fans should turn on but they do not
@@joshrawks21 disconnect the right fan, start the car and the A/C and leave it for at least 5 minutes (make sure the AC clutch engages) does the left fan run then ?
Hello my good man i have returned, you have officially become my source of mechanical advice relating to saab, sod google, im going straight to the source 🤣🤣🤣great video, my question however is off topic, any help is greatly appreciated. I did try Google .......... I am needing to replacing parking sensors in a aero SS, is it as simple as prying out the sensors like on a newer 95? Or do i have to remove the strip? Or do i remove the bumper? As you can tell i am not a mechanic 🤣but im going to do this and the ISM replacement myself 💪with a little help from your videos. Thanks.
saabwisonline.com/b4/9-3/2007/3-electrical-system/parking-aid-spa/adjustment-replacement-parking-aid-spa/spa-distance-sensors/to-remove-524/ Use the arrows in the left of the page for demonstrations, and press on the highlighted component name for its specific procedure to remove or install
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thankyou very much, i was going to try to do it without removing the bumper which would have ending up in me breaking something for sure. Now i know better. Thank you again.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY update, new sensors arrived x4 £25 on ebay. Whilst preparing to change the broken ones out i sprayed the existing ones with wd40 and would you believe it they all work. Fml. 🤣If you need any sensors they are free to a good home saab 93ss 2003up.
Hello sir thank you for great video as usual. I have problem with mine and i get kod P0691-00, p0693-00 and P0695-00 and i have changed fan also but these problem is there.
Hi, neither fans are running at all so the coolant is boiling over. I checked fuses, power to the relay connectors (using multi meter) , changed the relay module, changed the coolant temp sensor... none of which has worked. Any more ideas to try before I have to take it into a shop with a scanner?
Disconnect the passenger side fan (in LHD car) and run the car until the coolant start to boil, check if the other fan is running or no, if it runs before the coolant boil, replace passenger side fan. Otherwise more diagnostic needed
When my fans failed, it was easier to drop front bumper, remove top crossmember, tilt the radiator/condenser assembly forward and lift the fan up like a cartridge
I replaced carbon brushes and bearing on mine, it's now working like a champ.
I posted this comment and plea for insight/advice in Part 1 video as well. Great Video, the visual procedure in conjunction w/the verbal instructions/explanations and notes are excellent. My vehicle is a 2008 SAAB 9-3 2.0T (B207 engine; Convertible). Engine and Transmission run smooth, has 202K miles. A/C issue: I turn engine on with A/C set to Full Blast (Driver & Passenger) w/cabin Circ. on, cold air begins to blow, but after 15 seconds coldness gradually declines to warm. I repeat and notice that Compressor Clutch initially engages/rotates then stops after 15 seconds. I checked A/C Compressor Relay and respective circuit slots, and all good with power. Hooked refrigerant gauge (only) to high press. line and needle went into the RED Zone (beyond the Green/Full psi zone), so had a mechanic fully evacuate High and Low Press. lines and refill-balance. No change in Red Zone reading and Compressor Clutch stop. Had A/C Diagnostic done, ...possible Cooling Fan Relay Box/Module at fault, so replaced w/new, w/no change in result. Eventually located a Certified SAAB Mechanic (many, many years), he stated that car had many P-Codes, and that my newly installed Cooling Fan Relay needed to be programmed/married to ECM/ECU (T8 Module/ Trionic Unit), would take an hour or so. "OK"...2 hours later he called and said "Bad News" ...SAAB is DEAD.... ECM Died...car will not start. Me: WHAAAAT ??!!?? So, Mr. Flying Mechanic DIY, can you please give me some insight as to how this can happen? How does an ECM "die" while programming marrying to another part ?!? I'm thinking he accidentally short circuited the ECM, but then How do I know. He wants to charge me 200USD for handing back a DEAD car that was dropped off as a perfectly smooth running.
2006 saab9-3 2.0t cooling fan is parked after operation but the fan does not operate even if the cooling water boils
Hi,
This is an excellent video guide. I am having a same issue with, coling fan modul changed already but problem stayed.
I have the same engine however there is single fan instead of double.
2 questions: can be replaced my single fan unit to double fan unit? if not could you send me part nu of single fan?
Thank you
I never worked on a single fan car, but if the connector coming from the car side into the relay module is the same as in my video (2 powers, 2 grounds & 3 control wires) then u a dual fan setup should work for u .
For the part number i need ur car VIN, so i can provide u with accurate info ..
hola @TheFlyingMechanicDIY tengo un 2.8 2009 9-3 y el ventilador queda encendido cuando apago el motor, entiendo puede ser un rele que no se desconecta, tambien tengo un 2.0t 2008 9-3 ¿el modulo de reles es el mismo en ambos autos? le agradezco su respuesta
It is normal for the fan to stay up to 5 minutes after shutdown .
Relays are both the same
风扇碳刷磨损了，更换碳刷就可以解决问题
Could you make a video on how to do a automatic transmission fluid change/flush?
Would be really appreciated
killalpvp coming soon
Hi, I have p0691 code, what pin from ecu do I need to test in order to find bad wire ( and to see if ecu is on his way out...) ? Ty!
Do you know if the fan works the same on the v6 models?
I don’t really have a way of manually activating the fans so I don’t know if one is working or not.
I know the passenger side fan comes on because it stays on after I turn the car off and I can see it spinning (also it kicks on when I have the car idle). Though I haven’t seen the driver side fan kick on yet, not sure if it only kicks on at higher coolant temps (220+F)? Or if my fan is not working. Any advice?
Both fans should work together at any speed .. at speed one, if either fans are faulty then both fans will not work, at other speeds only the faulty fan will be off.
With ignition off, and coolant temp above 103c speed 2 is commended ON, that mean both fans should run, and since ur driver side does not, then it is 99% faulty
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY 100% correct. Swapped out fans and now they both work! Thanks!
06 saab9-3 2.0t cooling fan The fan does not operate even when the right side of the cooling fan is turned on The cooling water does not work even if it boils Is it a motor problem? (left handle)
Are both cooling fans the same size??
If one fan is not running it is most probably burned, fans must always run together. If a fan burns, sometimes it burns the fuse with it and even the fan control module. If one fan is burned, then after running with engine off is disabled .
Bothe fans have the same dimensions, but different amp rating and different connector (the connector can be modified to fit both sides) . Last thing, if one fan burns the second fan will burn soon after, suggest replace both fans at the same time.
Hello , i have an alfa 159 1,9 jtdm it have only one big cooling fan , so my problem is when i turn on the AC the fan doesn't turn on at any speed maybe sometimes it just turn on and off , I only get cold air when i'm on highway . I tried disconnecting the water temperature sensor and the fan turned on maximum speed and so i got very cold air from the AC . my question is could it be the Fan regulator or module just like the one you changed ? by the way my thermostat is locked open so the engine is getting hard to get hot . hope you can help thanks .
I will have to look at wiring diagrams for ur car to have a better judgment of whats going on, but it looks to me like u might have an issue with ur AC pressure sensor or related signal
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY hello, I have this same problem, AC is charged, fan works for cooling system just fine, but not for ac system, compressor kicks on but not the radiator fan. Would that be a problem with the Blower motor resistor located under the glove box? Or should I go to the AC pressure sensor? Thank you
Hello, I plan to do this myself. I have the 2006 model and noticed the cross-member is different to your later facelift model. I’m assuming I have to remove even more bolts and larger cross-member?
Its the same more or less
Hi. Please help me understand this. My 2008 Saab 93 blows cool air out of the left AC vents and warm air out of the right ones. Gas is full. Someone said it could be cooling fan issue? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Its 100% low charge .. looking at manifold gauges is not enough to say if the gas full or not.
U will need a recovery machine to pull the current gas, and re-charge with the correct amount .
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY thank you for the prompt reply TFMDIY. Sorry for not including some key detail earlier. The cooling becomes okay at higher speeds. The fans are running too slow. They used to be louder. Today during rush hour slow driving the Temp gauge moved past normal. It came back after i moved. The AC was switched on all the time. Could it be the relay/module? I replaced both fans 3 years ago with Saab genuine parts. Any thoughts. TIA
If temp went higher than horizontal u need to diagnose that first, it maybe not related, but u dont want to cook ur engine, the temp gauge will indicate horizontal whenever the temp is between (80-115c) anytime it leaves horizontal it means it is getting really high. I would recommend looking at the temp with a scan tool as well. Now tell u the truth, for cooling purposes the fans should never run higher than the 1st speed which is the lowest speed , the reason u r used to hear them run high and not anymore is actually the reduced pressure in the A/C system, u will have to understand that fans are not only commanded ON to cool the coolant but as well to reduce pressure in the A/C system so if u dont hear them run high anymore it usually means low pressure in the A/C system .. if u dont want to spend the money on a shop to use a recovery machine and re-charge the proper amount to the system, buy a 1lb Refrigerant can from any parts store and add it to the system and u will find out the results quickly. Hope i explained well
Hello. I have a Tech 2 and tested all the fan speeds (1-4). I only had both low speed on stages 1 and 3, nothing on stage 2 and left full speed and no right for stage 4. I have a P0693 code : Cooling Fan 2 Control Open/Short. I replaced the relay and Fan 2, both brand new, but the problem and the code is still there. Any suggestions? I don't think it's fan 1 since I don't have a code for it and I don't think it's the ECM either.
The fans has nothing to do with this code, and the code simply means u lost control of speed 2,3 &4 .. which means u lost the ground control on pin4 on the relay module, that couldve been simply tested by a test light while running speed 2 by the scan tool attaching a test light between pin4 and battery positive, and if doesn’t light (which most probably will not as the code indicate) u r left with either a bad wiring between ECU pin A33 and Relay module Pin4 (and that can be easily tested and repaired if it is the case) and if the Wiring is good, then bad ECU.
And from experience, it is a very common ECU failure to generate codes from P0691-P0696
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Ah! I actually did do that with a test light. (Your video helped, thank you.) As you said pin4 didn't register. So before I have to replace the ECU, where would the wire between the ECU and the relay module be?
@@zandmaddict2596 just test continuity between pin4 in the relay connector and Pin A33 on the ECU .. if u have continuity then replace ECU
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thank You! Turns out there was no continuity because wire that connects pin A33 was exposed and fully corroded. So I cut the section and soldered new wire in. Now I have continuity to Pin4 of the relay and it engages the A/C. I'll be putting in a spacer for the ECU so it's off the manifold. Thanks again!
Do I follow the same steps if both my fans don't go on when I turn the a.c on? I haven't heard my fans go on after a drive to cool off the engine like it used too. Will I have to replace the fan like you did?
If the right fan fail, both fans will not run on speed 1.
U can use an advanced scan tool to command all the speeds from 1-4 and monitor if any of these speeds work, and if both fans run at any speed, do u have a scan tool ?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY I only have obdwiz laptop program and obd link sx.
@@joshrawks21 any codes stored in the car ?
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY no sir none. Like I said I just noticed how I wouldn't hear the fans go on turing the car off after a drive and they will almost always go on for a bit then turn off. And I was told by someone if I turn the a.c on both fans should turn on but they do not
@@joshrawks21 disconnect the right fan, start the car and the A/C and leave it for at least 5 minutes (make sure the AC clutch engages) does the left fan run then ?
Hello my good man i have returned, you have officially become my source of mechanical advice relating to saab, sod google, im going straight to the source 🤣🤣🤣great video, my question however is off topic, any help is greatly appreciated. I did try Google .......... I am needing to replacing parking sensors in a aero SS, is it as simple as prying out the sensors like on a newer 95? Or do i have to remove the strip? Or do i remove the bumper? As you can tell i am not a mechanic 🤣but im going to do this and the ISM replacement myself 💪with a little help from your videos. Thanks.
U will have to remove the bumber ..
saabwisonline.com/b4/9-3/2007/3-electrical-system/parking-aid-spa/adjustment-replacement-parking-aid-spa/spa-distance-sensors/to-remove-524/
Use the arrows in the left of the page for demonstrations, and press on the highlighted component name for its specific procedure to remove or install
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Thankyou very much, i was going to try to do it without removing the bumper which would have ending up in me breaking something for sure. Now i know better. Thank you again.
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY update, new sensors arrived x4 £25 on ebay. Whilst preparing to change the broken ones out i sprayed the existing ones with wd40 and would you believe it they all work. Fml. 🤣If you need any sensors they are free to a good home saab 93ss 2003up.
Ue Mackay i wondered at first why u wana replace them, they rarely fail, at least not the 4 together.. thanx for the offer
Hello sir thank you for great video as usual. I have problem with mine and i get kod P0691-00, p0693-00 and P0695-00 and i have changed fan also but these problem is there.
Hi, neither fans are running at all so the coolant is boiling over. I checked fuses, power to the relay connectors (using multi meter) , changed the relay module, changed the coolant temp sensor... none of which has worked. Any more ideas to try before I have to take it into a shop with a scanner?
Disconnect the passenger side fan (in LHD car) and run the car until the coolant start to boil, check if the other fan is running or no, if it runs before the coolant boil, replace passenger side fan.
Otherwise more diagnostic needed
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY Car is RHD, so disconnect driver side fan?
@@links7348 no . The other fan
@@TheFlyingMechanicDIY tried this but the othe fan did not come on at all :(
Could it be a faulty engine cpu module?
What model dewalt do you have and what’s the power rated nut removing nm
Its a DCF880 with what i think 150ft-lb rated torque