✨⭐ *PRODUCTS FEATURED IN THIS VIDEO* ⭐✨ 🔹 Strike Plate amzn.to/3Zp2J9I 🔹 Other Strike Plates amzn.to/3rajvg6 🔹 Boeshield T9 amzn.to/48kxWio 🔹 Carmtek Keyless Door Lock (COMES WITH EXTRA PLATES) amzn.to/3sZXWzm 🔹 Hammer amzn.to/3ZmKa5V 🔹 Screwdriver Set amzn.to/3EHualp 🔹 Dewalt Drill (not used today but works great) amzn.to/3PILPQa 🎥 Carmtek 10 Digit Keyless Entry RV Door Lock Video ruclips.net/video/KcEUgsDw6kk/видео.html *How To Fix Hard Shutting RV Doors: 2 Easy Adjustments for an Effortless Open & Close* In this episode I show you a modification that makes opening and closing an RV door a much easier and enjoyable process. PLEASE click the like button, leave us a comment & subscribe so you don’t miss any of our future videos. #rvlife #rvliving #rvtips #rvtravel #rvtips #rv #rvmaintenance ✨⭐ *OUR FAVORITE RV ACCESSORIES* ⭐✨ *ESSENTIALS:* ✅ Camco Rhino Flex Sewer Hose & Elbow Kit amzn.to/3wxaiyG ✅ Camco 90 Degree Clear Sewer Elbow amzn.to/3eezBe7 ✅ Camco RV Water Filter amzn.to/3VzcMqi ✅ Rubber Wheel Chocks amzn.to/3v0lL5I ✅ Hughes Watchdog 30 Amp Surge Protector/EMS amzn.to/3hAmgCy ✅ Hughes Watchdog 50 Amp Surge Protector/EMS amzn.to/3HKrpm1 ✅ Liquified RV Tank Treatment amzn.to/3ksg1Ck ✅ Tire Minder TPMS amzn.to/3mjuBg0 ✅ Water Pressure Regulator amzn.to/3m3ZFzZ ✅ Rubber Gloves 6 Mil amzn.to/3XNo7Dc ✅ Collapsible Water Hose amzn.to/3SvNubw *MAINTENANCE:* ✅ Boeshield T-9 Rust Preventative & Lubrication amzn.to/3sjcjMx ✅ Eternabond Roof Tape amzn.to/3Ad290J ✅ Geocell Proflex Sealer amzn.to/3KGMOyb ✅ Road Tool Kit amzn.to/41NIQKj *INTERIOR:* ✅ Camco Cross Bar Door Handle amzn.to/3o8WWS5 ✅ Shower Caddy amzn.to/3bdU80W ✅ Soap Dish amzn.to/3pKheSn ✅ Oxygenics Shower Head (White) amzn.to/3nhDMYW ✅ Oxygenics Shower Head (Brushed Nickel) amzn.to/2O8YcYC ✅ Perfect RV Paper Towel Holder amzn.to/3tZxd1K ✅ Dimmer Switch amzn.to/3rQdfFD ✅ Sliding Door Latch amzn.to/3EkpTT0 ✅ Puppy Paw Hook amzn.to/2N9JaRV ✅ Foldable Storage Bins amzn.to/3tIp01f *EXTERIOR:* ✅ X Chocks amzn.to/3m3ck2i ✅ Carmtek 10 Digit Keyless Entry System amzn.to/3t4IMpB (see the video here: ruclips.net/video/KcEUgsDw6kk/видео.html) ✅ Low Point Drain Valves amzn.to/3Jd6adb *OUTDOOR GEAR:* ✅ Blackstone Griddle 22” amzn.to/3MDDiL0 ✅ Blackstone Griddle 28" amzn.to/3eBnOuD ✅ Outdoor Gravity Chairs amzn.to/3Sb1p4M ✅ Ground Mat amzn.to/41u3wXg ✅ TurboAnt Electric Scooters shrsl.com/27grx-1yiz-ub6o 💥 Sign up for our FREE Newsletter: view.flodesk.com/pages/6497c6a9d1998fa8c7623e9f ✨⭐ *MORE RV ACCESSORIES ON AMAZON* ⭐✨ www.amazon.com/shop/rvtipstravels 💥 *NEW TO OUR CHANNEL?* Check out our catalog: ruclips.net/user/RVTipsTravelsplaylists 🙏 *If you found this video helpful & want to support our channel with a small donation* click here: www.paypal.com/donate/?hosted_button_id=J2KKM9NR3BJJA ✨⭐ *DISCOUNT CODES TO SAVE MONEY* ⭐✨ 🔨 Learn how to *repair & maintain your RV* like I did w/ this COMPREHENSIVE training course: rvtechcourse.com/?ref=rvtips&travels 🚐 *10% off RV Snappads!* rvsnappad.com/discount/RVTT10 🛌 Get *25% off your RV Mattress* by Brooklyn Bedding at rvmattress.com/rvtips Use discount code: rvtips 📡 *GPS Tracking for your RV!* www.wheresafe.com/rvtipsandtravels Get 10% off by using discount code: RVTIPS10 If you find a dead link, let us know & we’ll send you an RVTT sticker! 📺 Want to see more RV videos? Please *SUBSCRIBE & CLICK THE BELL ICON* 🔔 so you're notified when we release new videos! *Follow us* on social media: 📸 Instagram instagram.com/RVTipsAndTravels 🕺 Facebook facebook.com/RVTipsAndTravels We may receive a small commission for purchases made through the affiliate links above. There is NO additional cost to you when purchasing from our links & it helps cover some of our material and equipment costs to make these videos. We also may have received products or payment in exchange for content discussed in this video, however our opinions and feedback are based only on our experiences, regardless of compensation. *We GREATLY appreciate your support!*
Literally watched this an hour ago, went out to the trailer, flattened out my plate, and what a difference!! Why to they raise these plates to begin with?
Thank you so much. My camper door was pulling open with the deadbolt engaged and miving the stricker plate was all it took. 3 sleepless nights later. God bless you!
I watched this, went to trailer, looked at my door and saw the described scratches. I flattened and adjusted the plate, and it works flawlessly. I have mentioned this when I picked up the trailer and they made no improvement! Thanks so much for this simple fix!
Its nice Paul, agree... getting a little expensive though I would love to see them bring the price down a bit. I think $15-$16 is fair considering all it does. $20+ is getting a little high, but still love it.
Lubricating the latch did it for us -- from virtually impossible to close the door from inside to fairly easy (seals still need to be compressed so a little force is required when pulling it closed). Thanks for an excellent video.
This happened to me last weekend when I was in Zion in 90 degree plus weather. I had to take the striker plate off to make it work. Someone just sent me this video. Wish I had it then. I’m going to try these techniques on my next trip. Thank you!
I went through a lot of these and what finally worked for me was disassembling my keyless RVlock, removing the spring for the latch bolt, and cutting 1/4-1/2 inch off. Then I stretched it back out to the original length. Door closure is smooth as butter now.
Great information Ross, My dad has to practically slam his door to get it to latch. Im going to pass this on to him to do,(which he'll have me do). Keep up the great content! 👍
The person we bought our trailer from has marks on the strike plate like you, now I'm betting they watched this video 😆 One thing I learned fairly quickly which could be an issues for some folks either for earlier setups or if something as settled after setup or after being set up for a long while is that the stairs might need to be adjusted, you want to make sure that they're not sitting too high which could add additional friction to the whole setup, which makes the door harder to shut.
This is a well done video! It's to the point. It's absolutely maddening watching 8 minutes of incoherent rambling on some introduction. If I'm watching a video, I already know why. 😂 Anyway, again, well done.
Hey Ross, Thank you so much for all the work you put into these extremely helpful videos. I came here because our door was quickly becoming harder and harder to shut. The faceplate and strike plate have HUGE gouges in them. After watching this video, I noticed that it's actually the dome head of the screws of the strike plate that are scraping the faceplate. I tried tightening them down to see if they had just worked themselves loose only to find the bottom screw just spins in place, so the hole in the metal frame is stripped. I watched your "stripped screws" video but not sure how to solve this with the hole being in the metal frame other than to get a larger screw. I'm also thinking about getting flat instead of pan head screws. Any advice? Thank you!
Thx for the comment the screw is scraping my door and cutting into. I was thinking of replacing the screw to a flat one. Any help works be appreciated ?
i would try a larger screw that you know will sink flush into the plate, thats the tricky part. you can also try putting in a small piece of a zip tie, it acts similar to a toothpick.
During our last camp out, one of our neighbors had a similar issue. After looking at it and thinking about it for about a half day. We realized that the neighbor has cranked the rear (door side) stabilizer so far down that it pushed the door off. We retracted the stabilizer and extended it carefully until the door closed easily.
Great info. I need to make my door easier to close. I've done what you suggested and the door closes better but just not good enough yet. From what I can see when the door is closed it seals flush at the bottom but not at the top. I may have an alignment issue as well. I was going to give it the old piece of wood trick, put a piece of wood in the bottom of the door and push the door at the top just to make things straighter.
Ok what if the whole handle moves even with the screws tight. I was trying to close my door for almost an hour before I realized the handle shifts forward. Do I just replace the whole handle ? If so what do you recommend as I don't want the same one .
Just got a 2023 24foot TT, I notice are door is hard to close, but POPs open easy, isnt flush and I got to slam it closed before I can lock it. I'm going to try checking out what was pointed out in this video. Thank you.
Mine does the same thing. had to remove the strike plate. A screw on the bottom of the door hits the jamb. It's like the door needs to move closer to the hinges.
Good video! More door closes perfectly... but the screen door on the other hand has never latched. It's like the latch is far enough towards the bore to engage.
QUESTION; I’ve built and repaired homes, etc, all my life. Is the door on an rv made differently, as in bowed a little towards the middle? I think it’s part of the design to keep pressure on the seals, thanks
On a straight frame trailer like mine I don’t think it is bowed since the walls are straight, and many doors are manufactured by a company other than the manufacturer who builds the rv. Some doors like on airstreams are bowed though because the trailer is not straight.
Great video! Would you happen to have one on bent door hinges? Our RV door was stuck and we are unable to close the door. I think it could be because of the heat. Does that make sense? Any information is greatly appreciated.
Great video but my problem with our door not shutting properly is a stripped screw on the strike plate which causes it to move what do you recommend to do for that thanks for all your great videos
along with this video Nick, ive since learned you can also use zip ties instead of toothpicks... you'll understand after watching the video, but zip ties might be a better option in areas that get wet. ruclips.net/video/MlFPex87cr4/видео.html
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS I’m not exactly sure yet but am being told the hole is cut crooked in the rv. They have put 4 different doors in with no success. It also has something to do with the stairs because they told me they needed to be replaced but they don’t make them any more. I have a 2020 Cedar Creek 33ik Silverback edition. Right now it seems the put a larger frame in and filled the door with this insulation that is coming off already. Light comes thru the door etc etc.
Nice video. My question is what is a good fix for a door latch that has been stripped out after a break in. No place for screws to go even after using max size for plate?
Quick question: You mention moving the striker plate "out" (away from the RV) if the handle is hard to open. However, on my Alliance Fifth Wheel, the striker plate is already as far "out" (or left, looking at it) as it can go. Because of that recessed part (which is pushing up against the cut out in the RV body), it can't move "out" any more. Any ideas on this? Thanks.
any tips for the stupid glass doors on the Cherokee Grey Wolf models, specifically the 26DBH. Both doors have to forcefully shoved closed in order to get them to latch. So much so, that my kids can't really close them all the way. Even worse, one door won't stay latched closed while we travel. If it wasn't for the deadbolt it would swing open every time we drive.
We’ve tried to install the RV Lock and the strike plate isn’t low enough for the deadbolt to latch completely. Should i modify the hole in the on the strike plate?
can you move the plate down? if not, youll have to modify the strike plate, but the more you remove from the plate weakens the plate, so take as little as possible. also, is this only happening with the new lock?
Great suggestions. My door closes fine when the steps are up but no matter how I angle them you always have to slam the door to get it to latch. I think my door is misaligned from the factory.
Mine will rub the steps too if they aren’t completely flat against the threshold. Nothing that can be done, can’t make the step metal thinner. You might have to modify the bottom of the door, and that would be a nightmare.
Did you happen to make another video about inspecting and adjusting the hinges? I did these steps but my door is still hitting the frame as if the frame is too small. I do construction and have installed and shimmed many home doors but this one has me stumped
Toby, unfortunately this mod wont fix the door alignment issues. My hinges are riveted too, not really much room for adjustment without an all day project on your hands. I wish these bolted in, that would allow for fairly easy adjustments.
Yes, I say that in the video. There needs to be adequate pressure to keep the elements out. Guessing you didn’t watch the whole thing but it is mentioned in the video.
Hello! What recommendation for lubricant on schwintek slides? I understand to never spray lubricant on the tracks themselves. But there are rollers and flat steel tracks under the slides that may need lubrication. Story: I had a rubbing sound coming from the DS slide, took the class-a in for service and the tech said to lubricate the rollers/steel band under the slide. After doing this, We still hear the rubbing sound. p.s. slide motors are synched and is flat to the outside of the motorhome (no gaps, the slide does tend to walk out a bit at the bottom but techs are clueless about this).
issue with ;pcked door opening while moving. thank goodness the handrail was across it and prevented it from swinning completely open. 2020 micro minnie winnie. how to trouble shoot?
sounds like your striker isnt going into the plate enough which could be an alignment issue, either that or your handle spring is shot and its opening on its own with very mininal trailer movement. would honestly have to look at it to tell.
We have a travel trailer Avenger that when the main door is shut on the top does not close tight so you can see daylight the screen door has no problem we do have stowaway steps and was told this was normal. Is this caused by the steps or is it bent hinges and how do we know?
you might be able to dremel out the strike plate where its hitting if the other adjustments havent worked, but I would have to see whats happening to better help.
What about when inside or outside i have to open the door handle and press/pull to get the door latched. I bought it new took it in for them to fix they did nothing still has issues.
Try adjusting your strike plate away from the rv. If that doesn’t fix it, you might have an alignment issue that’s not allowing the door to close within its tolerances.
I went to change the lock on our new 5th wheel and it seems the striker plate can only be installed backwards. When installed correctly as you showed it will not latch. Am i at risk by leaving it this way? Don't want to get myself locked out.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS It's the Latch it RV keypad lock. Although it will latch it will not deadbolt. I found one with a longer opening so hopefully that will work once it comes in.
It normally has to do more with how level the camper is. If the right rear of the trailer is higher the camper will flex and cause the door to not close well or other way around. If the left side of the camper is higher the door will be hard to close.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS I’m just going off my experience. If my right rear jack is jacked up a lot to get the camper level my door won’t latch it’ll come open even if the camper is level. But I haven’t tried putting blocks under the tires yet to level it that way.
It’s so frustrating when you buy a brand new camper and the latches hit the door, and my second door at the bedroom, the deadbolt doesn’t close fully. I know I can fix it, but helps to see how it has all been done successfully before. Thanks
I am having a problem with the screen door hook that catches the exterior door. I have adjusted the black catch plate on the exterior door to see if it helps but it doesn't. When I open the exterior door, you have to pull hard for it to release the the screen door. The screen door stays closed while the exterior door opens. I'm not sure I am explaining this correctly. Basically every time I open the exterior door, I feel like the plastic screen handle will eventually break.
Flattening the strike plate may make the door close easier, but we have an issue that the latch comes out of the strike plate from heat expansion and contraction and traveling down the road. Moving the strike plate further away from the door will make that problem worse rather than better. The deadbolt keeps the door closed, but the seals don't keep all water out of the door if the seal is not compressed.
If you have an issue where the latch is coming out of the bore, you have an alignment issue. The latch from the factory should penetrate more than deep enough into the strike plate and the bore that flattening out the strike plate a few millimeters should not affect it. Unfortunately you have a bigger problem where your door (and latch) is not close enough to the frame for the latch to penetrate the bore. This is not a strike plate issue. The majority of your latch should be well within the bore. If you are depending on just the strike plate to hold your door shut, you’re out of alignment. Hope that makes sense.
@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS it does make sense, but numerous techs from manufacture have looked at it and told me all was OK. When it is hot it is very hard to close door too, which says it is too close to strike plate or the door or wall is warped.
I must have an unusual case because my RV door itself seems "warped". Or the hinges are bent... or something. In order to close the door I have to insert a flathead screwdriver in the bottom of the frame and lift the door up as I'm pushing the latch closed. It's impossible to close the door from the inside and must sit ajar while sleeping. Grrrrr.
unfortunately, I think you are correct, in your case it has nothing to do with the plates. it could be the hinges, it could also be the door frame slightly out of alignment. i would start with putting a square on your door frame corners to see if that is the issue. try to find what is out of square first. hopefully its hinges, thats the cheapest route.
That’s not fixing anything. If you’re door is out of alignment you are ignoring the issue and it will probably get worse. That’s also not going to help metal on metal rubbing at the plates. What the guy in the video does is fix the problem, not cover it up.
If the door closed fine when you first purchased and after a year or two it starts to hit the strike plate, you have issues with the door hinges. Doing this only gives a quick fix because the door will continue to move. Get the door fixed properly.
Won’t disagree with you that you could have a problem at the hinges, but that’s rarely the case. This problem can exist right out of the factory. Also, the door frame can twist a bit from driving. Additionally hinges/metal components can expand and contract in different weather conditions. Hinges can also stretch a bit but that doesn’t mean they will continue to expand or stretch beyond the yield point. Theres 4 reasons you can have this issue that have nothing to do with loosening hinges. Now, if the door continues to hit the strike plate after this adjustment is done, then you might have a hinge issue, possibly a frame issue too. I feel this mod is the first step to finding out. Hinge adjustments on riveted RV doors is a much more difficult undertaking, I stand behind doing this mod first all day.
No problem Jim, and I’m not discrediting your statement, definitely could be a hinge issue, no doubt. I would try this first since it’s easy. Thank you for being a long time subscriber and viewer my friend.
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*How To Fix Hard Shutting RV Doors: 2 Easy Adjustments for an Effortless Open & Close* In this episode I show you a modification that makes opening and closing an RV door a much easier and enjoyable process. PLEASE click the like button, leave us a comment & subscribe so you don’t miss any of our future videos.
#rvlife #rvliving #rvtips #rvtravel #rvtips #rv #rvmaintenance
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My hubby thought of this last year and it really does work.
Nice!
Finally found somebody that talks about the strike plate & other issues. Installing the lock is the easy pat. Finetuning takes some kno
hope it helped
Literally watched this an hour ago, went out to the trailer, flattened out my plate, and what a difference!! Why to they raise these plates to begin with?
glad it helped!
Same!!! So great!!!
Pay attention Lippert. You need to hire this guy.
Thank you so much. My camper door was pulling open with the deadbolt engaged and miving the stricker plate was all it took. 3 sleepless nights later. God bless you!
glad it helped!
I watched this, went to trailer, looked at my door and saw the described scratches. I flattened and adjusted the plate, and it works flawlessly. I have mentioned this when I picked up the trailer and they made no improvement! Thanks so much for this simple fix!
thanks for watching and commenting!
Ross, I followed your previous suggestion regarding T9 and that product is amazing. Thanks for the great content.
Its nice Paul, agree... getting a little expensive though I would love to see them bring the price down a bit. I think $15-$16 is fair considering all it does. $20+ is getting a little high, but still love it.
Lubricating the latch did it for us -- from virtually impossible to close the door from inside to fairly easy (seals still need to be compressed so a little force is required when pulling it closed). Thanks for an excellent video.
Thanks for the info… yeah, it’s never ever going to be a smooth as a residential door, but it can be improved. Thanks my friend.
Hello, thanks for the video, I have the same problem, this simplified the fix for me.tank you again 👍👍👍👍.DG from Fort Lauderdale.Florida
Good to hear up here in PA!
This happened to me last weekend when I was in Zion in 90 degree plus weather. I had to take the striker plate off to make it work. Someone just sent me this video. Wish I had it then. I’m going to try these techniques on my next trip. Thank you!
good luck!
Just saw you hit over 100K Subs! Congratulations!
Thanks Jared, learned a lot from watching you over the years.
I went through a lot of these and what finally worked for me was disassembling my keyless RVlock, removing the spring for the latch bolt, and cutting 1/4-1/2 inch off. Then I stretched it back out to the original length. Door closure is smooth as butter now.
thats an interesting idea, thanks for sharing and glad it worked!
Great job as usual.
You are the bomb of DIY. Keeping it understandable at a 5th grade level 👌
Time to go full time 😉🤙
Thanks bud!
Great information Ross, My dad has to practically slam his door to get it to latch. Im going to pass this on to him to do,(which he'll have me do). Keep up the great content! 👍
Glad to help
Great information ross thanks👍
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thanks for your video. You save me some headaches. Just needed to readjust the strike plate.
Glad I could help
Great advice! I’ve never owned an RV that I didn’t have to make adjustments to the door. I’ve even had to use the 2x4 method to straighten a door. 😂
🤣🤣🤣
The person we bought our trailer from has marks on the strike plate like you, now I'm betting they watched this video 😆
One thing I learned fairly quickly which could be an issues for some folks either for earlier setups or if something as settled after setup or after being set up for a long while is that the stairs might need to be adjusted, you want to make sure that they're not sitting too high which could add additional friction to the whole setup, which makes the door harder to shut.
very true, thanks for sharing
Good tips. Thank you.
You bet!
Helpful and succinct. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
This is a well done video! It's to the point. It's absolutely maddening watching 8 minutes of incoherent rambling on some introduction. If I'm watching a video, I already know why. 😂 Anyway, again, well done.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey Ross, Thank you so much for all the work you put into these extremely helpful videos. I came here because our door was quickly becoming harder and harder to shut. The faceplate and strike plate have HUGE gouges in them. After watching this video, I noticed that it's actually the dome head of the screws of the strike plate that are scraping the faceplate. I tried tightening them down to see if they had just worked themselves loose only to find the bottom screw just spins in place, so the hole in the metal frame is stripped. I watched your "stripped screws" video but not sure how to solve this with the hole being in the metal frame other than to get a larger screw. I'm also thinking about getting flat instead of pan head screws. Any advice?
Thank you!
Thx for the comment the screw is scraping my door and cutting into. I was thinking of replacing the screw to a flat one. Any help works be appreciated ?
i would try a larger screw that you know will sink flush into the plate, thats the tricky part. you can also try putting in a small piece of a zip tie, it acts similar to a toothpick.
i would try a flat head screw that bevels into the hole first.
This is so great. I really appreciate how you get to it explaining the steps.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Excellent content and very well done.
Thanks for watching!
During our last camp out, one of our neighbors had a similar issue. After looking at it and thinking about it for about a half day. We realized that the neighbor has cranked the rear (door side) stabilizer so far down that it pushed the door off. We retracted the stabilizer and extended it carefully until the door closed easily.
That’s interesting! Makes sense and glad you got it figured out.
This helped my family so much omg. Thank you for saving us!!!
You're so welcome!
Thank you so much for this!!! I just fixed my door latch with your help!!!
glad it helped.
I get to break out the hammer and hit things??? YEEEESSSS!!!!
Great info. I need to make my door easier to close. I've done what you suggested and the door closes better but just not good enough yet. From what I can see when the door is closed it seals flush at the bottom but not at the top. I may have an alignment issue as well. I was going to give it the old piece of wood trick, put a piece of wood in the bottom of the door and push the door at the top just to make things straighter.
did that fix your issue?
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS It helped along with plenty of lubrication including lubing the striker plate.
good to hear you got it straight!
I’m going to check out my strike plate now, and see if that is the issue. Thanks!
Good luck!
Dude you saved me a lot of headache. Thanks!
Glad to help
Awesome video! Ours has been causing issues all summer. Will try the plate tricks and if it is the hinges I will hope you do a video in that as well!
keep me posted
Brilliant my man!
Thank you
Ok what if the whole handle moves even with the screws tight. I was trying to close my door for almost an hour before I realized the handle shifts forward. Do I just replace the whole handle ? If so what do you recommend as I don't want the same one .
it should not move with the screw tight.
Just got a 2023 24foot TT, I notice are door is hard to close, but POPs open easy, isnt flush and I got to slam it closed before I can lock it. I'm going to try checking out what was pointed out in this video. Thank you.
Mine does the same thing. had to remove the strike plate. A screw on the bottom of the door hits the jamb. It's like the door needs to move closer to the hinges.
good luck
are your screws beveled at the top (bugle style)? like this: amzn.to/3MZUKdH
Good video! More door closes perfectly... but the screen door on the other hand has never latched. It's like the latch is far enough towards the bore to engage.
RV screen door latches are cheap and pretty much garbage. They need to re-engineer, or at least use metal hardware.
I used a rivet instead of screws to secure the strike plate. That worked and lasted a lot longer.
good idea!
QUESTION; I’ve built and repaired homes, etc, all my life. Is the door on an rv made differently, as in bowed a little towards the middle? I think it’s part of the design to keep pressure on the seals, thanks
On a straight frame trailer like mine I don’t think it is bowed since the walls are straight, and many doors are manufactured by a company other than the manufacturer who builds the rv. Some doors like on airstreams are bowed though because the trailer is not straight.
Great video! Would you happen to have one on bent door hinges? Our RV door was stuck and we are unable to close the door. I think it could be because of the heat. Does that make sense? Any information is greatly appreciated.
nothing right now sorry
Great video but my problem with our door not shutting properly is a stripped screw on the strike plate which causes it to move what do you recommend to do for that thanks for all your great videos
along with this video Nick, ive since learned you can also use zip ties instead of toothpicks... you'll understand after watching the video, but zip ties might be a better option in areas that get wet. ruclips.net/video/MlFPex87cr4/видео.html
I wish your help and advice could help what Forest River did to my door. But you need a decent hole in the rv to get a working door....
what is your issue, maybe i can help
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS I’m not exactly sure yet but am being told the hole is cut crooked in the rv. They have put 4 different doors in with no success. It also has something to do with the stairs because they told me they needed to be replaced but they don’t make them any more. I have a 2020 Cedar Creek 33ik Silverback edition.
Right now it seems the put a larger frame in and filled the door with this insulation that is coming off already. Light comes thru the door etc etc.
Very sorry to hear that… you’d think a quality company like that would fix the issue correctly.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS thanks. Sadly it is quite the opposite.
Nice video. My question is what is a good fix for a door latch that has been stripped out after a break in. No place for screws to go even after using max size for plate?
That would be something I would have to see to help with, sorry.
Fixed!
Glad it helped.
Quick question: You mention moving the striker plate "out" (away from the RV) if the handle is hard to open. However, on my Alliance Fifth Wheel, the striker plate is already as far "out" (or left, looking at it) as it can go. Because of that recessed part (which is pushing up against the cut out in the RV body), it can't move "out" any more. Any ideas on this? Thanks.
hard to tell on things like this until im in front of them. send me a couple pics
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS I sent you an email
any tips for the stupid glass doors on the Cherokee Grey Wolf models, specifically the 26DBH. Both doors have to forcefully shoved closed in order to get them to latch. So much so, that my kids can't really close them all the way. Even worse, one door won't stay latched closed while we travel. If it wasn't for the deadbolt it would swing open every time we drive.
I got nothing, my glass doors in my house suck too lol.
Do you have a video on how to fix interior door that aren't aligned and squeak or hard to close?? Can't remove the pin out of the hinge. Thanks
not at this time sorry
We’ve tried to install the RV Lock and the strike plate isn’t low enough for the deadbolt to latch completely. Should i modify the hole in the on the strike plate?
can you move the plate down? if not, youll have to modify the strike plate, but the more you remove from the plate weakens the plate, so take as little as possible. also, is this only happening with the new lock?
Great suggestions. My door closes fine when the steps are up but no matter how I angle them you always have to slam the door to get it to latch. I think my door is misaligned from the factory.
Do you have morryde or Lippert steps?
Morryde steps. I've adjusted them every which way and still binds on the bottom of the door.@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS
Mine will rub the steps too if they aren’t completely flat against the threshold. Nothing that can be done, can’t make the step metal thinner. You might have to modify the bottom of the door, and that would be a nightmare.
Did you happen to make another video about inspecting and adjusting the hinges? I did these steps but my door is still hitting the frame as if the frame is too small. I do construction and have installed and shimmed many home doors but this one has me stumped
Toby, unfortunately this mod wont fix the door alignment issues. My hinges are riveted too, not really much room for adjustment without an all day project on your hands. I wish these bolted in, that would allow for fairly easy adjustments.
My entry door is hitting on the door frame at the top . Have to slam the door to close it. Any way to make adjustments to stop this?
not sure, sounds like its misaligned... i would have to see it in person to help with something like that.
Where did you get the yellow spray nozzle for the Boeshield T9? I can't find it anywhere with the yellow nozzle?
That’s a little hack… those come on PB Blaster, can be removed and used on T9. amzn.to/45dHyc0
Do you have any info on adjusting a screen door? I’ve tighten the screws, but still won’t sit right. Hits the striker plate 🥴
I have not unfortunately
Well Damn!!!!
Great video but you want some slight pressure from the seals. That keeps it draft, weather, and insect resistant.
Yes, I say that in the video. There needs to be adequate pressure to keep the elements out. Guessing you didn’t watch the whole thing but it is mentioned in the video.
Hello! What recommendation for lubricant on schwintek slides? I understand to never spray lubricant on the tracks themselves. But there are rollers and flat steel tracks under the slides that may need lubrication. Story: I had a rubbing sound coming from the DS slide, took the class-a in for service and the tech said to lubricate the rollers/steel band under the slide. After doing this, We still hear the rubbing sound. p.s. slide motors are synched and is flat to the outside of the motorhome (no gaps, the slide does tend to walk out a bit at the bottom but techs are clueless about this).
lippert says to apply no lube on any of the parts after anything manufacturered about 8-10 years ago... its something im looking into myself.
issue with ;pcked door opening while moving. thank goodness the handrail was across it and prevented it from swinning completely open. 2020 micro minnie winnie. how to trouble shoot?
sounds like your striker isnt going into the plate enough which could be an alignment issue, either that or your handle spring is shot and its opening on its own with very mininal trailer movement. would honestly have to look at it to tell.
We have a travel trailer Avenger that when the main door is shut on the top does not close tight so you can see daylight the screen door has no problem we do have stowaway steps and was told this was normal. Is this caused by the steps or is it bent hinges and how do we know?
its something i would have to see in person, but its not normal. the door should seal.
How do I fix the door deadbolt hitting below the bore and strike plate. Ive leveled and re-leveled and it won’t ever align. Also the huge gap at top.
you might be able to dremel out the strike plate where its hitting if the other adjustments havent worked, but I would have to see whats happening to better help.
What about when inside or outside i have to open the door handle and press/pull to get the door latched. I bought it new took it in for them to fix they did nothing still has issues.
Try adjusting your strike plate away from the rv. If that doesn’t fix it, you might have an alignment issue that’s not allowing the door to close within its tolerances.
I went to change the lock on our new 5th wheel and it seems the striker plate can only be installed backwards. When installed correctly as you showed it will not latch. Am i at risk by leaving it this way? Don't want to get myself locked out.
what kind of lock did you put it?
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS It's the Latch it RV keypad lock. Although it will latch it will not deadbolt. I found one with a longer opening so hopefully that will work once it comes in.
It normally has to do more with how level the camper is. If the right rear of the trailer is higher the camper will flex and cause the door to not close well or other way around. If the left side of the camper is higher the door will be hard to close.
I wont disagree there is flex, but you're leveling your camper before you're using your door, so it should always be level.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS I’m just going off my experience. If my right rear jack is jacked up a lot to get the camper level my door won’t latch it’ll come open even if the camper is level. But I haven’t tried putting blocks under the tires yet to level it that way.
Eric, try these instead of ramps... much easier: amzn.to/4gMvLbq
It’s so frustrating when you buy a brand new camper and the latches hit the door, and my second door at the bedroom, the deadbolt doesn’t close fully. I know I can fix it, but helps to see how it has all been done successfully before. Thanks
Hope it helped!
So problem I'm having is at storage the doors close easy but when I get to my location and level it the doors then get hard to close. Any suggestions?
sounds like the hinges are out of alignment but I'd have to see it to say for sure.
My door closes great hard to lock it from inside have to lift up hard on the door to lock it ?
Sounds like your deadbolt is hitting the strike plate and isn’t aligned. May need to adjust strike plate
How do you fix a stripped top screw hole?
ruclips.net/video/MlFPex87cr4/видео.html
So my door doesn't have this problem in the summer (heat) only in the winter when it gets really cold (20*f and lower) what could be the problem/fix
Interesting…. Not sure what the fix is but is the problem by the latch or somewhere else?
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS definitely in the latch
That’s odd it’s happening in the winter, but even still I would try what I did in this video and see what happens.
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS thank you I will try and update
Definitely keep me posted. Good luck my friend.
I am having a problem with the screen door hook that catches the exterior door. I have adjusted the black catch plate on the exterior door to see if it helps but it doesn't. When I open the exterior door, you have to pull hard for it to release the the screen door. The screen door stays closed while the exterior door opens. I'm not sure I am explaining this correctly. Basically every time I open the exterior door, I feel like the plastic screen handle will eventually break.
outside of adjustments, you may just have to replace the piece that holds the screen door to the main door. they are usually plastic and very cheap.
What can I do to my RV door to stop it from flapping at the top while traveling? The door opens and closes easily and with no issues.
thats odd, try moving your strike plate further into the rv
Flattening the strike plate may make the door close easier, but we have an issue that the latch comes out of the strike plate from heat expansion and contraction and traveling down the road. Moving the strike plate further away from the door will make that problem worse rather than better. The deadbolt keeps the door closed, but the seals don't keep all water out of the door if the seal is not compressed.
If you have an issue where the latch is coming out of the bore, you have an alignment issue. The latch from the factory should penetrate more than deep enough into the strike plate and the bore that flattening out the strike plate a few millimeters should not affect it. Unfortunately you have a bigger problem where your door (and latch) is not close enough to the frame for the latch to penetrate the bore. This is not a strike plate issue. The majority of your latch should be well within the bore. If you are depending on just the strike plate to hold your door shut, you’re out of alignment. Hope that makes sense.
@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS it does make sense, but numerous techs from manufacture have looked at it and told me all was OK. When it is hot it is very hard to close door too, which says it is too close to strike plate or the door or wall is warped.
But when it cools it moves away and doesn’t stay shut?
@@RVTIPSANDTRAVELS Yes., but not when we are in it. only going down the road or in storage.
My strike plate is embedded inside of the trim. How the hell do you get that out because nobody has any videos on how to do that
email me a picture: management@rvtipsandtravels.com
Thanks for the tips but can i bring up the elephant in the room ? Is that Big ben on your wrist? ⌚
Just an Apple Watch with this: amzn.to/3POyOnW
This obviously helps with the latching but the friction hinges are ridiculously tight.
They definitely are Mark. Personally I don’t like them and never got them, but a lot of people do have them.
💯👋
Thanks for watching!
Heres whats coming
?
what if my door is hella bowed in the middle now? that isn't gonna get fixed from any video I've seen
youll probably need to replace the door if it cant be straightened, unfortunately.
Mine is opposite keeps comming open in winter
thats odd...
I must have an unusual case because my RV door itself seems "warped". Or the hinges are bent... or something. In order to close the door I have to insert a flathead screwdriver in the bottom of the frame and lift the door up as I'm pushing the latch closed. It's impossible to close the door from the inside and must sit ajar while sleeping. Grrrrr.
unfortunately, I think you are correct, in your case it has nothing to do with the plates. it could be the hinges, it could also be the door frame slightly out of alignment. i would start with putting a square on your door frame corners to see if that is the issue. try to find what is out of square first. hopefully its hinges, thats the cheapest route.
The door is higher than the tv body causing me to slam the door close. Now I really have to slap to get it close. Any ideals anyone? Thank you
sounds more like a vertical alignment issue, this mod is more for the strike plate being too far out.
My issue is my door will randomly unlock. My rv is 2 years old. I live in it full-time.
hmmm not sure
Use silicone spray on complete door frame. This will fix 99 percent of the door closing problems!
That’s not fixing anything. If you’re door is out of alignment you are ignoring the issue and it will probably get worse. That’s also not going to help metal on metal rubbing at the plates. What the guy in the video does is fix the problem, not cover it up.
thanks for watching and commenting!
My father always said a Happy Medium was a drunk gypsy
🤣🤣🤣
👍🇺🇲
If the door closed fine when you first purchased and after a year or two it starts to hit the strike plate, you have issues with the door hinges. Doing this only gives a quick fix because the door will continue to move. Get the door fixed properly.
Won’t disagree with you that you could have a problem at the hinges, but that’s rarely the case. This problem can exist right out of the factory. Also, the door frame can twist a bit from driving. Additionally hinges/metal components can expand and contract in different weather conditions. Hinges can also stretch a bit but that doesn’t mean they will continue to expand or stretch beyond the yield point. Theres 4 reasons you can have this issue that have nothing to do with loosening hinges. Now, if the door continues to hit the strike plate after this adjustment is done, then you might have a hinge issue, possibly a frame issue too. I feel this mod is the first step to finding out. Hinge adjustments on riveted RV doors is a much more difficult undertaking, I stand behind doing this mod first all day.
Ok thank you very much for going into more details on what may cause the issue! I now better understand what you were conveying in the video!
No problem Jim, and I’m not discrediting your statement, definitely could be a hinge issue, no doubt. I would try this first since it’s easy. Thank you for being a long time subscriber and viewer my friend.
doors are all warped from the factory no matter what, bowed in the middle havent seen a flat one yet
my door is straight, no issues there or with the seal.
HYPE TRAIN!!!!!!!! LETS GOOOOO!!!!! 🚂🚃🚃🚃