Thanks for doing your gear mesh videos Mike. I was struggling to get my head round the whole thing, until I came across your videos. Best technique and explanation I've come across. Helped me set my diff up. Cheers
understandable readings with explaining for new people level trying to comprehend how to do it priceless.........now subscribed..........tried replacing all the bearings years ago on a used ring and pinion set and gave up.
@@TheBFHGarage well I changed nothing but replacing bearings carrier and piniion and gave up so I took it to a transmission rearend guy who also screwed it up lol.
I didn't realize you were getting into the pinion too. Theoretically it shouldn't change but the more factors (bearings) you throw in there, the better the chance for things getting out of whack.
Thanks for taking your time and resources to present a very well produced and edited video.My two cents. .. Use a pump bottle filled with mineral spirits in lieu of aerosol can 'Brake clean' to rinse off Ur parts. Wipe clean with lint free cloth. Follow with a pump bottle filled with methyl hydrate to clean off the oil residue left by the mineral spirits. Cheaper than 'Brake clean and less aerosol can trash to deal with. All the best to you and yours.
Extremely helpful!. Again... that lengthy discussion of how and why is very helpful. Too many rush through and don't explain small details that others my not realize. Good video
Great video as always, thx. Guess I shoulda got revolution gears. I set up a JK D44 with 4.88 yukons and the patterns are uneven drive to coast side. I did 6 differnt pinion depth setups all at .007-.008 backlash and I got it but not real happy with it. Ill run her, if it fails.. Ill try Revolution.
I just binge watched most of your gear install videos, they are all amazing and the best info i can find anywhere. You've got a new subscriber here! Thanks for doing them. I did have 1 question, i couldn't find a video of a high pinion dana 30 in your video's. How would patterning differ with the HPD30 compared to the LPD30? In this video you say to favor the coast side pattern, would that be the same for the HP30? So on a HPD30 would you focus on the bottom of the tooth, which would be the coast side for the HP since its reverse?
On a high pinion 30 you would favor the drive side. The only reason I tell people to favor one side versus the other is if you can't get a pattern that is good on both sides.
Thank you for this info! This is my first time and I have that same messed up pattern on my Yukon gears on my Dana 44 where the forward looks good but the reverse is in the tow bad same as your picture. How did you fix it I’ve removed a lot from my pinion depth but it’s not helped. Thank you!
Sometimes that's just where the gears settle. Nothing you can do about it. It can still be an acceptable pattern but it sure irritates the crap out of me
Ok yea its aggravating my wife tells me I try to be to much of a perfectionist. I will shim my pinion back out to where the factory pinion was at .045 and set my backlash and take another patter and see how it looks if the drive side is good I may just go with it. Thank you for all your videos they are very helpful!
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks for taking the time to respond! I wasn't sure how needing left to right adjustments would show itself in the pattern. New carrier, new gears (same ratio), new bearings, new spacers/shims (left factory spacer cracked). Does pinion depth only affect how deep (or shallow) the sunrise/sunset shape is? Does left/right only impact how developed the coast vs driven side looks? What kind of role does temperature play? I have a detached, uninsulated steel garage. It's 29 outside. If I aim for 0.005 - 0.008" of backlash when it's cold out, will I run into problems at operating temperature? (I tried to get permission from my supreme overlord to "temporarily" displace the living room furniture and decorations and such to throw down a 4x8 sheet of plywood with drop cloth and saw horses to do this inside at 72... I'm surprised I survived the look I received - at least the couch is far more comfortable than sleeping outside!) This is my first time doing gears. Bearing failed in D35 (open diff). Found bits of the bearing cage in the bottom of the diff, and the pins showed evidence of seizing, and the inner race spun on the carrier making it a "slip fit" which made the rear end unhappy.
@muddy-one you are asking far more than I can provide here. Do your research, watch the videos. I have multiple gearing videos that answer all of your questions 👍
A couple of reasons this can happen. If you reinstalled the factory slinger/shim that was behind the pinion head, it may be too thick. Secondly, make sure the race is seated all the way if you're not using a set up race. Also make sure you are using the correct bearings. Are you using thick cut gears? Do you have the correct carrier?
I've watched a few of your videos installing a differential, and I noticed you don't use a pinion depth tool. How do you get a good starting point without it? Do you use the backlash as a guidance for depth? Thinking about rebuilding my AMC 20 in my CJ7 with an Eaton differential and your videos have been helpful.
Backlash had nothing to do with pinion depth. I always start with what was in the previous setup as far as shims. It's usually pretty close. If you have nothing, then you have to guess.... Usually around 55 thou for Dana 30 and 44.
@TheBFHGarage So, a pinion depth tool is not necessary for pinion depth. Is it just used to get as close as possible to the correct depth? You use the patterns on the gear to determine if you need to add or take out shims, correct? The backlash is adjusted with shims on the side of the carrier? Thanks for the help.
@@mikejones5535 yes you are correct on all statements. No need for a pinion depth tool throw 55 thou in there (for a Dana 30 & 44) and adjust based on the pattern.
@@TheBFHGarage Have heard of people setting up used but I guess major skills involved. Anyway, would this gear marking contact pattern be or could be used to check pattern of a used rear end before installing it. Basically a use or dont use reject or ok method.
@@zundfolge1432 No. When setting up used gears, you run a pattern to use as a reference. When you set them up, you want them to mimic what they were in originally. Take a picture of the pattern and then try to match it as close as possible. The reason is that the gears get work hardened.
Two years strong on my Dana 30/35 regear thanks to Mike's teachings. Best in RUclips
I recently discovered your videos and they are very well done. The tutorials have proven valuable. 👍
Thanks for doing your gear mesh videos Mike.
I was struggling to get my head round the whole thing, until I came across your videos.
Best technique and explanation I've come across.
Helped me set my diff up. Cheers
understandable readings with explaining for new people level trying to comprehend how to do it priceless.........now subscribed..........tried replacing all the bearings years ago on a used ring and pinion set and gave up.
If just replacing bearings and not doing a great swap, then I would just replace the bearings. No need for pattern interpretation other than to see.
@@TheBFHGarage well I changed nothing but replacing bearings carrier and piniion and gave up so I took it to a transmission rearend guy who also screwed it up lol.
I didn't realize you were getting into the pinion too. Theoretically it shouldn't change but the more factors (bearings) you throw in there, the better the chance for things getting out of whack.
@@zundfolge1432 All you had to do was change the bearings and put it back together. What tripped you up?
My gears are real hard to turn and the pinion gear is not to close what's wrong with it.?
Thanks!!! My son & I just did my best gear install ever because of you. Loved your patterns @ the end & methods.
thanks for the video man, i now understand how a bevel gear should mesh properly and describe how it should and shouldn't looks like.
Thanks for taking your time and resources to present a very well produced and edited video.My two cents. ..
Use a pump bottle filled with mineral spirits in lieu of aerosol can 'Brake clean' to rinse off Ur parts. Wipe clean with lint free cloth. Follow with a pump bottle filled with methyl hydrate to clean off the oil residue left by the mineral spirits. Cheaper than 'Brake clean and less aerosol can trash to deal with. All the best to you and yours.
Thanks Mike the information you provided has been very helpful and valuable in my endeavors to complete my project jeep.
Extremely helpful!. Again... that lengthy discussion of how and why is very helpful. Too many rush through and don't explain small details that others my not realize. Good video
My email address is on my RUclips homepage under about
Great info as always. Thank you sir.
Thanks for doing this. I’ve been thinking about doing a E-locker up front.
Great video Thanks for sharing.
Great video!
yes Ive always wanted to be able to set up a rear end. I do have the inch pound torque wrench meant for this, but not the pinion depth checker tool.
You don't need a pinion depth tool. Watch one of my entire regear videos.
Great video as always, thx. Guess I shoulda got revolution gears. I set up a JK D44 with 4.88 yukons and the patterns are uneven drive to coast side. I did 6 differnt pinion depth setups all at .007-.008 backlash and I got it but not real happy with it. Ill run her, if it fails.. Ill try Revolution.
Really enjoy your detailed explanations....... I'm about to re-gear my TJ's 35 and 30. Do you have a video covering the process from start to finish?
I have a lot of regear videos. The process is virtually the same for all.
I just binge watched most of your gear install videos, they are all amazing and the best info i can find anywhere. You've got a new subscriber here! Thanks for doing them. I did have 1 question, i couldn't find a video of a high pinion dana 30 in your video's. How would patterning differ with the HPD30 compared to the LPD30? In this video you say to favor the coast side pattern, would that be the same for the HP30? So on a HPD30 would you focus on the bottom of the tooth, which would be the coast side for the HP since its reverse?
On a high pinion 30 you would favor the drive side. The only reason I tell people to favor one side versus the other is if you can't get a pattern that is good on both sides.
Thanks for the info. Keep the awesome videos coming!
Thank you for this info! This is my first time and I have that same messed up pattern on my Yukon gears on my Dana 44 where the forward looks good but the reverse is in the tow bad same as your picture. How did you fix it I’ve removed a lot from my pinion depth but it’s not helped. Thank you!
Sometimes that's just where the gears settle. Nothing you can do about it. It can still be an acceptable pattern but it sure irritates the crap out of me
Ok yea its aggravating my wife tells me I try to be to much of a perfectionist. I will shim my pinion back out to where the factory pinion was at .045 and set my backlash and take another patter and see how it looks if the drive side is good I may just go with it. Thank you for all your videos they are very helpful!
What about shimming the carrier left or right? Do you just re-use the factory shims with the new ring gear?
You can try to start and see where it's at. If you aren't changing gear ratios it will probably be close. Most likely you will have to adjust shims.
@@TheBFHGarage Thanks for taking the time to respond! I wasn't sure how needing left to right adjustments would show itself in the pattern. New carrier, new gears (same ratio), new bearings, new spacers/shims (left factory spacer cracked).
Does pinion depth only affect how deep (or shallow) the sunrise/sunset shape is?
Does left/right only impact how developed the coast vs driven side looks?
What kind of role does temperature play?
I have a detached, uninsulated steel garage. It's 29 outside. If I aim for 0.005 - 0.008" of backlash when it's cold out, will I run into problems at operating temperature? (I tried to get permission from my supreme overlord to "temporarily" displace the living room furniture and decorations and such to throw down a 4x8 sheet of plywood with drop cloth and saw horses to do this inside at 72... I'm surprised I survived the look I received - at least the couch is far more comfortable than sleeping outside!)
This is my first time doing gears. Bearing failed in D35 (open diff). Found bits of the bearing cage in the bottom of the diff, and the pins showed evidence of seizing, and the inner race spun on the carrier making it a "slip fit" which made the rear end unhappy.
@muddy-one you are asking far more than I can provide here. Do your research, watch the videos. I have multiple gearing videos that answer all of your questions 👍
Nice tutorial video....will follow this steps to rebuild 9.75 rear end.. thanks
My new gears are really hard to turn but my paint looks good on the ring gear.what needs to b done or is it ok being tight
What is the pinion pre-load? They shouldn't be "tight".... They should be "spec".
hello , i have a too deep pattern , but pinion doesnt have any shims to remove , any help would be aprecieted
A couple of reasons this can happen. If you reinstalled the factory slinger/shim that was behind the pinion head, it may be too thick. Secondly, make sure the race is seated all the way if you're not using a set up race. Also make sure you are using the correct bearings. Are you using thick cut gears? Do you have the correct carrier?
Are you adjusting the pinion shim or the carrier bearing shims?
@@pingpong9656 it will require adjusting both. Cause and effect.
Video starts at 10.00
where is the link to the patreon?
Right under the BFH Garage logo in the description!
I've watched a few of your videos installing a differential, and I noticed you don't use a pinion depth tool. How do you get a good starting point without it? Do you use the backlash as a guidance for depth? Thinking about rebuilding my AMC 20 in my CJ7 with an Eaton differential and your videos have been helpful.
Backlash had nothing to do with pinion depth. I always start with what was in the previous setup as far as shims. It's usually pretty close. If you have nothing, then you have to guess.... Usually around 55 thou for Dana 30 and 44.
@TheBFHGarage So, a pinion depth tool is not necessary for pinion depth. Is it just used to get as close as possible to the correct depth? You use the patterns on the gear to determine if you need to add or take out shims, correct? The backlash is adjusted with shims on the side of the carrier? Thanks for the help.
@@mikejones5535 yes you are correct on all statements. No need for a pinion depth tool throw 55 thou in there (for a Dana 30 & 44) and adjust based on the pattern.
Just ran into a problem with Yukon’s in a 10.5. Could not get a good coast pattern. Drive was perfect, coast was way deep. Junk
Have you done any used gear sets?
Yes. They are a pain and not worth the effort.
@@TheBFHGarage Have heard of people setting up used but I guess major skills involved. Anyway, would this gear marking contact pattern be or could be used to check pattern of a used rear end before installing it. Basically a use or dont use reject or ok method.
@@zundfolge1432 No. When setting up used gears, you run a pattern to use as a reference. When you set them up, you want them to mimic what they were in originally. Take a picture of the pattern and then try to match it as close as possible. The reason is that the gears get work hardened.
Like reading tea leaves. 😂
Unrelated to this video but I’ve seen you use 5.13’s in your HP 30, any instances in gear failure in your experience with a deep gear set like that?
None. If it was an issue, they probably wouldn't make them.
Correct
hoping you get more detailed..........!
Circle K = (South) Korea? S.Korea,Taiwan, Japan. They are about the best forges in the world.
@@bobbemoras9334 yes South Korea
Hi, I have the Eaton locker as well, how did you remove the magnet mechanism on the locker ?
There is a circle clip you need to remove.