@@MrGixxer1300r I am a fan of theirs so I really wish you were wrong but at the same time I can totally picture that happening. And I agree, they get the hookups on parts so why did they simply adjust the needle and call it good? I get that it's temporary but I totally would've opted for at least a fatter main in a heartbeat. Before riding any real distance. Wonder if they checked engine temps after assuming they were lean?
To be fair when your working on old rusty things like they do it's kinda hard not to cut corners When they don't have the correct parts on hand they make a part and make it work I don't see anything wrong with that I think that's one of the main purpose for the channel is to show how you can fix something from a little of nothing I can't speak for them I don't know them personally it's just my opinion Us North Carolinians think a lot a like lol
Yeah I'm a fan and I got a ct200u and it's a pretty good bike you should do another video on it but and make it like a drag one or something I don't know
Try these 2 things. Lower the air pressure in the front tire by ALOT. Remember the caster on this bike was designed to run with a flatter knobby tire, not a nice round slick. Also try to raise the fork up in the tree like another guy said. This will also change caster. Good looking bike guys!
@@DanITGuy you're right because you can feel the shift in stability whenever you use your front brake in corners vs the rear. The way it changes the rake makes it feel less stable
That is the best looking Trail 70 I've ever seen, and I'm old! In my aging process I have sold literally hundreds of motorcycle head bearing sets. Don't take this wrong, but at least 20% of the non-mechanic installers will put then caged bearing in the race up-side-down. Other common issues are the race not fitting in the frame correctly, (wrong parts, frame wear, washer, keyed washer, washer, spacer in the wrong order etc.) When correctly assembled with quality grease, the nut should be tightened enough to assure the races are fully seated in the frame and parallel, loosened, then tightened snug while rotating the bars. There should be NO PLAY whatsoever in the fork or bars when properly set, and there should be smooth rotation without any binding from cables etc. On a triple tree set-up like yours it is imperative to have PERFECT spacing and parallelism in the triple-tree brackets tubes and axle-nut. IF IT DOESENT FEEL 100% RIGHT DON'T RIDE IT. Take it all apart, clean and inspect everything look for unusual wear indicators and try again, and again, and again until it rides, brakes, and handles like it should. I ride everything from 1100cc sport touring bikes to 50cc four stroke scooters, and I can assure you, you can get on any one of them and dive into a corner with total confidence. Because your life depends on it, it should always be 100% correct! Note: "Captain Chaos" has good advice on fork tube parallelism methods below. All the spacers on the wheel axle, between the bearings, and outside the bearings are critical. Tightening the axle nut should not pull in or out on the forks.
Had a similar problem on my 83 virago. I realigned my front tire. Loosen bottom triple tree bolts and pinch bolt on axle and then bounce your front suspension a few times and let it settle into position.
Came here to say the same thing, might be a spacer in the bottom of the package the forks came in that would raise the bearing seat so it ain't rubbing the frame lower/cup
92mph?! Holy fuck Batman! 23hp tho I don't doubt it.. I rip my kids bone-stock 50cc honda around and I weigh 135lbs. Think bike is rated 3.1hp from factory
Some friends and I customized several Honda Chaly's in Vietnam. We put electric starts on them. We had trouble keeping the front wheels down when taking off. A lot of fun and good memories. We smoked a few tires and the Bearded Clam once in Vung Tau
It does. Depending on the carburettor the needle has slots with a retainer clip on it at the top of the needle. Move the clip to a different slot and the needle will have a different height and therefore different diameter at any given throttle position as the needle is never fully out of the jet. Move the clip down, therefore needle up, therefore slim the diameter at the jet resulting in more petrol aka a richer air fuel mixture
i agreewith 300zx as the main jet is userly alot smaller then the emulsifyer tube so at wide open throttle the needle just sat in the entrance to it wouldnt restrict flow unless you had the clip on the top notch on the needle then mabie but i see where you get the idea it would and mabie it would on some carbs
Love it my dad bought me a ct 70 at the truck stop in the 80’s and I put so many miles on it around the yard it was crazy I would not come in t rat unless I went threw 3 tanks of fuel lol which was gorever.... them 2 extra gears got To be a big help I still have mine that don’t run and a parts bike I’m hoping that I can make on out of 2 for my boy !!!!!! Both of mine nave turnsignels so must be 73-74’s idk I just know they where fun
Awesome job guys, Been a massive fan in Australia since you first started. Ive got the same passions and similar toys that you guys have... Including the nissan 300zx i see stored up high in the old garage. Im now passing the knowledge on to my twin boys that we've all learnt over the years which is pretty cool. Also ya not far off 1 Million veiws guys so ya gonna have to have a massive party with all the other chanels to celebrate your and Isaacs success. Cheers for all the memories, Stay well to you guys and all thats watching. Ad from Oz. 🥳👍
OH MAN YOU GUYS ARE BRINGING BACK MEMORIES. Twenty years ago when I lived in New Jersey, I bought a brand new 2000 Panda Commute (Honda Chaly copy), which was made by a Chinese company Jincheng and were imported by a now defunct company Panda Motorsports. It came as a MOPED on the MCO title and did have pedals incorporated with it. It had a Chinese 49cc 3 speed auto clutch underpowered Honda mini trail engine just like a monkeybike. This looked like a step through moped and not like a monkeybike. At the time, there was a company out of Winston-Salem NC that dealt with monkeybikes and they built an engine for me that was a 110cc and i installed it on the Panda. I also filed for a body change and got a motorcycle plate for it. I used to run it on the interstate and cruise at 70 mph (I did do a gearing change). I used to get pulled over ALL THE TIME because they thought it was a moped. I had an MC registration and it passed state inspection (which they had at the time) and there was nothing they could do. Every year, we would do a rally to Montreal Quebec and I rode that thing to Quebec and back. Fun bike. I truly miss it.
How is it that 46 people didn’t like this build? If anyone didn’t like this build then you should probably go find another channel to watch!! Great job bud 👏🏼👌🏽
@@patmercer8591 well jokes on you bud I have 1 kid and he get fed better than you so.... but thanks for the random comment it sure made my day 👌🏽 now go an troll someone else’s comment!
Growing up in 80's America, my brothers and I had two CT70's. We had a YZ80 as well. The Honda could climb up the steepest inclines that other dirt bikes couldn't. Folding handle bars and we could put one in trunk of car and take to lake. Easy 3 speed auto shift lever was simple too. Amazing to see the power on this bike.
Nice build! I recently upgraded my 74 Honda st90 from a YX140 to the ZS190cc 5 speed also. I'm running a Mikuni TM28mm flat slide carburetor: 220 main jet, 17.5 pilot. The needle clip I have in the center position. The bike rips! See if Vince at T-Bolt might send you the carb and also an easy start CDI box. It will make starting it, either kick or with the electric starter much easier and you won't have any starter chain problems. Can't wait till you do the West Virginia road trip!
Awesome, i build a 77 dax from the frame up with the same engine... And yeah it has a drinking problem, also have the 45mm usd kepspeed fork and also the weir wobble. I have a 17-28 gearing if im right, 12 inch wheels. But very tiny tires i can reach 130kph/80mph but it doesnt drive very smoothly. This engine really is an race engine. And will always want to pull. And does that really good it honestly flies soooo hard its scary. Love it keep. It up guys
On the carb tuning get 10 pilot and 10 main jets online in kits. Around your stock jeymt sizes. And start at the pilot and mixture screw setting. Backfire when you let go of the throttle points to a lean pilot jet . . Fuel mix screw should tune between 1and 3 turns out from lightly seated. After getting it dialed go to main jet. Go big and work down till you get nice full revs. If too big on main the motor will bog if to lean it will pop and act like a revlimiter at a lower then full rpm. When happy with the main jet. Then make needle adjustments to improve mid throttle response. And go ride. You can also do a few plug reads to be 100% sure the jetting is spot on.
Wow guys, that's a really beautiful Trail 70...I guess when you're as big into minibikes and karts as y'all are you have to have a holy grail build like those of us that build cars. Good work guys!
Nice looking bike John! Love the videos! If you've made that many changes to the bike's height and the different forks, you better check the rake and trail of the front end. Just search the internet for how to measure. It's the centerline of the steering head, not the forks, where it projects to the ground, compared to the tire touch point, should be about 3 - 4 inches.
I need to finish mine. I started with a CT70, got wrecked, and found a CL70 in a scrap yard. It's a longer frame to start and with the swing arm. Sitting on the CT70 wheels it sits super low but still leans good and should be really stable.
I totally love the budget builds 100%. But the NICE builds where you're feeling fancy and inspired are far better content. Love the trail 70 (190) Keep it under 100
I over tightened my steering once and it is a very terrible feeling trying to drive it like that I pulled off the side of the road immediately and fixed it lol Cool bike I had a 78-79 model when I was a kid wish I still had it lol ✌️
You've made some good things over the years, but this is without doubt the nicest and cooling looking thing you've done. I'm disabled and always kind of wanted a CT (or rather ST, as I'm British). If I did, this is VERY close to how I'd have it look.
So what’s actually left from the original trail 70? The stamped steel frame? Seems it would have been cheaper just to pick up a bare frame and build from there...
looking at the rear fender : think you need to add a small spacer / bolt under the front mount so the fender bends back a little and centers better over the rear tire
If the extended swing arm lowered the rear, that also changes the rake and trail of the front. Does the front sit any different hight with the new forks than it did with the old? That of course will also affect the rake angle and trail. I agree with your other fans that suggested altering the rake angle by raising the fork tubes in their clamps. Cool build. Looks like fun!
You may want to try some steering stabilizers. They really help with small wheeled bikes with more power than they were meant for. This build really made me want to go out and buy a CT70 and restomod it. Small bikes like that with some sticky tires and gobs of power are insanely fun.
Man you’re super smart and definitely super cool 😎 you’re my friend for life, keep the videos coming I’m learning how to perfect my own build 125cc on a bicycle frame (huffy) 😉
When I added fork to my st70 I had to lift the lower bering cup by putting a washer on before the cup and then putting on the bike. As the cut out for the turning stop isn't deeper enough! Meaning the string was sloppy or to tight. Worth a look!
Inspect your triple clamps (in particular the lower) to see if they're rubbing on the steering neck. I wish I was there to actually feel the steering problem, so I'm just kinda shooting from the hip. There's a few other things to check - like rake and trail. Be sure to confirm that your rear wheel is aligned and both wheels are centered. Handling issues are no good and can result in serious consequences. I know that I'm not there and haven't ridden the bike, but working on bikes is what I do. There could be other causes out there, but those are a few things to look at. Please get it worked out rather than trying to cope with it. I ride many different bikes that all handle differently, but despite their differences they should all feel stable. You riding as if drunk is not stable lol. Anywho, the bike looks awesome! Congrats! I'll have to get me something like this down the road.
Nice bike John! Johns Toy! I know Ike likes the patina on his trail but it’s time for Ike’s trail to be upgraded like Johns. It’s nice to see John and Ike having a good ride time riding around on a beautiful sunny day! Both of you get yourself a Snowcone!👍🏼👍🏼
My grandfather had a CT70 as a child, and his dad bought it brand new at the Honda dealership for $300! Every since I heard that story I’ve wanted one, but boy aren’t they expensive.
I would get another spun aluminum tank and mount it on the other side and have three tanks the stock location one then one on either side with petcocks for each that would help for lack of economy
68mph is impressive with the baffle in. Mine goes 82 with a homemade exhaust. my first ride with a baffle in the pipe i couldn't get over 30mph. The trailbuddy, drct70, daxdodo and japanwebike ainet front fork steering stem slop is somewhat normal. I'd say over half of all of the ones i've seen have that issue. A quick easy fix is to put Loctite 640 on the stem, upper tipple clamp and upper inner bearing race. Long term fix is to have a new stem made to fit tighter to the upper triple clamp and bearing race and have a machinest put a taper on the top of the inner upper race and the mating surface under the upper triple clamp.
Did you replace the steering head bearings? Looks like you have a center notch in the old original ball bearings you're fighting. ALWAYS upgrade to tapered roller bearings when possible.
I was just about to comment the same thing, because I noticed in a previous video he reused a traditional ball bearing setup. I used some tapered roller bearings from dratv when I rebuilt my CT70 K0 and I am very happy with them on the highway.
Long sorta s shaped metal coathanger witha small hook on the end hooked into wiring and pulled towards rear while pushing fuel tank downwards and forwards into white lithium greased rubber mounts makes it easy peasey... Increase main jet 2-3 sizes larger after lowering needle back down 2 notches should help your top end speed a bit... Also front end neck bearings should be packed with heavy grease prior to install taking care to fit them to cups before snugging down stem nut to just enough to have some drag on front end when off the ground before installing top plate taking care to lock it down with exact same distance on both sides between upper and lower tree... Also check tire pressures and play with them a little on those super sport tires ehich will effect handling in ruts and grooves in pavement..
Hi john, i modify and drive these kinda bike's in belgium , a few pointers for the allignement for the front wheel : you gotta have the wheel straight in the middle of the forks, gotta make costum spacers , the wheel has to be in the middle. also you got the chinese usd front fork, so each leg has to be evenly measure from the bracket's they slide into. hope this helps greets bc ps: sorry for the bad english
Hey guys just wondering where you got the loom from for johns bike as I really need one for a project I’m currently working on Thanks guys sweet bike John!
Maybe during the fork installation the axle and the triple tree aren’t parallel. Had a dirt bike once someone wrecked and it had the forks twisted in the stem clamps. Made sure axle was lose, loosened the clams then tightened the axle then re-tightened the fork clamps and trued it right up. Sweet ride! 👍
Could you check your rake and trail angles/ measurements and compare them with stock? Maybe it doesn't have enough trail or something with aftermarket fork setup. Also check rear wheel alignment compared to the front. Sucks that it doesn't track smooth.
Did you replace the cups in the head tube with the new ones? You can't re-use the existing cups with the new bearings, you need to pop out the old races or else you'll get some weird binding...
This is so rad, killer work!! I have a '93 ct 70 with severe electrical problems and i have been scouring the webs for any assistance and not been lucky at all. On top of that no shops in my town will even look at it since it is old Help?
Self etching primer is only used on aluminum not regular steel.. Epoxy primer would be what you'd want to use to start that with. And yes I actually do know, that was going to be my job until my back got in the way.. (or welding) I took autobody & paint in college. Did you remember to grease the neck bearings? Ike should be on his Triumph, it'd be about the same power to weight ratio. Intercoms aren't going to help unless you have a Sena backpack on your GoPro so it'll record the audio from your intercom.
Im super jealous of the digital display. I found it on ebay, but its for a 12v system and Im wanting to slap it on my 1968 CL90 that is running the original 6v system. Ive looked into potential conversions, but its my first project bike and parts/info on the CL90 is way more scarce than the CT70/CT90. I thought about just using a 6v to 12v converter for the display, but Im sure that would end up becoming more of a hassle than just swapping to a potential 12v system all together. Id love to get spokeless wheels like you have too. Doubt Ill do any off roading in the middle of the suburbs.
These clones are much better than earlier clones. They aren't Honda good but pretty good and tons of fun. www.icebearatv.com/product/pbz125-2 Look at Og Magi’s RUclips.
Take a clay bar to the paint and it should get rid of most of the overspray. Also the steering could be the height of the tripples on the front forks. Check to see if maybe the forks are too high.
I think this bike is the only vehicle I've ever seen on this channel where no corners have really been cut. This is a rarity. Nice build.
give them time soon the jet drills will come out and they will be drilling things they shouldn't. instead of buying some $3.00 jets to tune it right
@@MrGixxer1300r I am a fan of theirs so I really wish you were wrong but at the same time I can totally picture that happening. And I agree, they get the hookups on parts so why did they simply adjust the needle and call it good? I get that it's temporary but I totally would've opted for at least a fatter main in a heartbeat. Before riding any real distance. Wonder if they checked engine temps after assuming they were lean?
I was thinking the same 😂
Nothin wrong with jet drills.
To be fair when your working on old rusty things like they do it's kinda hard not to cut corners When they don't have the correct parts on hand they make a part and make it work I don't see anything wrong with that I think that's one of the main purpose for the channel is to show how you can fix something from a little of nothing I can't speak for them I don't know them personally it's just my opinion Us North Carolinians think a lot a like lol
Can't wait to hit the road!
run them at farmington dragway
Yeah I'm a fan and I got a ct200u and it's a pretty good bike you should do another video on it but and make it like a drag one or something I don't know
Can't wait to hit the like ;-)
challenge you do ford model T
16/32 sprockets?
Try these 2 things. Lower the air pressure in the front tire by ALOT. Remember the caster on this bike was designed to run with a flatter knobby tire, not a nice round slick. Also try to raise the fork up in the tree like another guy said. This will also change caster. Good looking bike guys!
I agree
Hey if your front end feels like it’s pushing and not turning well you need to raise your forks up in the clamps
I was thinking the rake is out of whack causing it to speed wobble.
@@DanITGuy you're right because you can feel the shift in stability whenever you use your front brake in corners vs the rear. The way it changes the rake makes it feel less stable
It could also be something not right with the rear end which most people over look
Does look like to much rake. Exaggerated by the small scale. Choppers are awfull, things to ride. The hard rider rides the front wheel..
Sounds like caster effect
That is the best looking Trail 70 I've ever seen, and I'm old! In my aging process I have sold literally hundreds of motorcycle head bearing sets. Don't take this wrong, but at least 20% of the non-mechanic installers will put then caged bearing in the race up-side-down. Other common issues are the race not fitting in the frame correctly, (wrong parts, frame wear, washer, keyed washer, washer, spacer in the wrong order etc.) When correctly assembled with quality grease, the nut should be tightened enough to assure the races are fully seated in the frame and parallel, loosened, then tightened snug while rotating the bars. There should be NO PLAY whatsoever in the fork or bars when properly set, and there should be smooth rotation without any binding from cables etc. On a triple tree set-up like yours it is imperative to have PERFECT spacing and parallelism in the triple-tree brackets tubes and axle-nut. IF IT DOESENT FEEL 100% RIGHT DON'T RIDE IT. Take it all apart, clean and inspect everything look for unusual wear indicators and try again, and again, and again until it rides, brakes, and handles like it should. I ride everything from 1100cc sport touring bikes to 50cc four stroke scooters, and I can assure you, you can get on any one of them and dive into a corner with total confidence. Because your life depends on it, it should always be 100% correct!
Note: "Captain Chaos" has good advice on fork tube parallelism methods below. All the spacers on the wheel axle, between the bearings, and outside the bearings are critical. Tightening the axle nut should not pull in or out on the forks.
Had a similar problem on my 83 virago. I realigned my front tire. Loosen bottom triple tree bolts and pinch bolt on axle and then bounce your front suspension a few times and let it settle into position.
John that build is " FREGGIN SICK " LOVE THE COLOR OF THE FRAME & THE SEAT COMBO.
Just went through the same thing with that front end. It’s binding at the lower headstock. We cut a small section off and it solved the problem.
Came here to say the same thing, might be a spacer in the bottom of the package the forks came in that would raise the bearing seat so it ain't rubbing the frame lower/cup
My mate has a 190 Honda monkey. He’s had that at 92 😂 23hp. Insane little machine. Great vid 👍🏼
92mph?! Holy fuck Batman! 23hp tho I don't doubt it.. I rip my kids bone-stock 50cc honda around and I weigh 135lbs. Think bike is rated 3.1hp from factory
Big bore kit on that 125, I think 181 is the max.
Required or not, signals and mirrors are definitely useful if you're going to ride in traffic.
Makes even more scenes if you plan to ride it oh I don't know maybe out of state!
Nah, hand signals are more visible on small bikes anyways
Thanks mom.....
My hands are my signals, have been forever and I do fine in traffic
Some friends and I customized several Honda Chaly's in Vietnam. We put electric starts on them. We had trouble keeping the front wheels down when taking off. A lot of fun and good memories. We smoked a few tires and the Bearded Clam once in Vung Tau
The jet needle doesn’t effect wide open throttle, that would be the main jet.
It does. Depending on the carburettor the needle has slots with a retainer clip on it at the top of the needle. Move the clip to a different slot and the needle will have a different height and therefore different diameter at any given throttle position as the needle is never fully out of the jet. Move the clip down, therefore needle up, therefore slim the diameter at the jet resulting in more petrol aka a richer air fuel mixture
That is incorrect. The needle isn't completely out of the main jet, the taper used can modify WOT fuel delivery.
i agreewith 300zx as the main jet is userly alot smaller then the emulsifyer tube so at wide open throttle the needle just sat in the entrance to it wouldnt restrict flow unless you had the clip on the top notch on the needle then mabie but i see where you get the idea it would and mabie it would on some carbs
Just take a nice long wide open run and then check the plug color it'll tell you if your main jet is lean or Rich
Love it my dad bought me a ct 70 at the truck stop in the 80’s and I put so many miles on it around the yard it was crazy I would not come in t rat unless I went threw 3 tanks of fuel lol which was gorever.... them 2 extra gears got
To be a big help I still have mine that don’t run and a parts bike I’m hoping that I can make on out of 2 for my boy !!!!!! Both of mine nave turnsignels so must be 73-74’s idk I just know they where fun
Awesome job guys, Been a massive fan in Australia since you first started. Ive got the same passions and similar toys that you guys have... Including the nissan 300zx i see stored up high in the old garage. Im now passing the knowledge on to my twin boys that we've all learnt over the years which is pretty cool. Also ya not far off 1 Million veiws guys so ya gonna have to have a massive party with all the other chanels to celebrate your and Isaacs success.
Cheers for all the memories, Stay well to you guys and all thats watching.
Ad from Oz. 🥳👍
OH MAN YOU GUYS ARE BRINGING BACK MEMORIES. Twenty years ago when I lived in New Jersey, I bought a brand new 2000 Panda Commute (Honda Chaly copy), which was made by a Chinese company Jincheng and were imported by a now defunct company Panda Motorsports. It came as a MOPED on the MCO title and did have pedals incorporated with it. It had a Chinese 49cc 3 speed auto clutch underpowered Honda mini trail engine just like a monkeybike. This looked like a step through moped and not like a monkeybike. At the time, there was a company out of Winston-Salem NC that dealt with monkeybikes and they built an engine for me that was a 110cc and i installed it on the Panda. I also filed for a body change and got a motorcycle plate for it. I used to run it on the interstate and cruise at 70 mph (I did do a gearing change). I used to get pulled over ALL THE TIME because they thought it was a moped. I had an MC registration and it passed state inspection (which they had at the time) and there was nothing they could do. Every year, we would do a rally to Montreal Quebec and I rode that thing to Quebec and back. Fun bike. I truly miss it.
How is it that 46 people didn’t like this build? If anyone didn’t like this build then you should probably go find another channel to watch!! Great job bud 👏🏼👌🏽
Hater gon hate that’s they’re job in life
jealous they ain't got one!!
Agree
Maybe you should find something else to worry about like how you're gonna feed your 9 kids.
@@patmercer8591 well jokes on you bud I have 1 kid and he get fed better than you so.... but thanks for the random comment it sure made my day 👌🏽 now go an troll someone else’s comment!
Never in my life have I ever seen someone do a burnout without holding the front brake 💪😂😂
I was like "Grab The Brake"
Nail biting
@@kiemelraines4300 I think everyone watching was saying it😁
Same 💪😂
I do It with my pitbike sometimes
Growing up in 80's America, my brothers and I had two CT70's. We had a YZ80 as well. The Honda could climb up the steepest inclines that other dirt bikes couldn't. Folding handle bars and we could put one in trunk of car and take to lake. Easy 3 speed auto shift lever was simple too. Amazing to see the power on this bike.
the camera game seems to be stronger in this one - love it - seems very clear, crisp
John that looks really clean,nice looking bike ,hopefully we see a road trip soon ,great episode 👍👍
Nice build! I recently upgraded my 74 Honda st90 from a YX140 to the ZS190cc 5 speed also. I'm running a Mikuni TM28mm flat slide carburetor: 220 main jet, 17.5 pilot. The needle clip I have in the center position. The bike rips! See if Vince at T-Bolt might send you the carb and also an easy start CDI box. It will make starting it, either kick or with the electric starter much easier and you won't have any starter chain problems. Can't wait till you do the West Virginia road trip!
Awesome, i build a 77 dax from the frame up with the same engine... And yeah it has a drinking problem, also have the 45mm usd kepspeed fork and also the weir wobble. I have a 17-28 gearing if im right, 12 inch wheels. But very tiny tires i can reach 130kph/80mph but it doesnt drive very smoothly. This engine really is an race engine. And will always want to pull. And does that really good it honestly flies soooo hard its scary. Love it keep. It up guys
When I first saw this series, I knew this would be my favorite of them all
On the carb tuning get 10 pilot and 10 main jets online in kits. Around your stock jeymt sizes. And start at the pilot and mixture screw setting. Backfire when you let go of the throttle points to a lean pilot jet . . Fuel mix screw should tune between 1and 3 turns out from lightly seated. After getting it dialed go to main jet. Go big and work down till you get nice full revs. If too big on main the motor will bog if to lean it will pop and act like a revlimiter at a lower then full rpm. When happy with the main jet. Then make needle adjustments to improve mid throttle response. And go ride. You can also do a few plug reads to be 100% sure the jetting is spot on.
Clean ct70 brother. My grandpa gave me a 1991 ct 70 with 102 miles on it I love the little bike. Be safe riding your 400 miles
Wow guys, that's a really beautiful Trail 70...I guess when you're as big into minibikes and karts as y'all are you have to have a holy grail build like those of us that build cars. Good work guys!
I just restored my very first bike my Honda trail 70. I love those bikes
Nice looking bike John! Love the videos! If you've made that many changes to the bike's height and the different forks, you better check the rake and trail of the front end. Just search the internet for how to measure. It's the centerline of the steering head, not the forks, where it projects to the ground, compared to the tire touch point, should be about 3 - 4 inches.
I love every thing about that bike
I need to finish mine. I started with a CT70, got wrecked, and found a CL70 in a scrap yard. It's a longer frame to start and with the swing arm. Sitting on the CT70 wheels it sits super low but still leans good and should be really stable.
I totally love the budget builds 100%. But the NICE builds where you're feeling fancy and inspired are far better content. Love the trail 70 (190) Keep it under 100
I over tightened my steering once and it is a very terrible feeling trying to drive it like that I pulled off the side of the road immediately and fixed it lol Cool bike I had a 78-79 model when I was a kid wish I still had it lol ✌️
Props to ike... and his fatherly tone towards john
Love that little bike, I'd tilt that rear fender a bit to match the tire if it was mine👌
John, I have to ask if you’re going to divulge how no expensive this build has been?
Sweet I am working on my gsxr 600 buggy at the moment
Car and and cameras this is fun to watch
You've made some good things over the years, but this is without doubt the nicest and cooling looking thing you've done. I'm disabled and always kind of wanted a CT (or rather ST, as I'm British). If I did, this is VERY close to how I'd have it look.
That turned out really nice. Better than new.
So what’s actually left from the original trail 70? The stamped steel frame? Seems it would have been cheaper just to pick up a bare frame and build from there...
That'll be badass strapped into the bed of that C10 project you've been keeping to yourself
looking at the rear fender : think you need to add a small spacer / bolt under the front mount so the fender bends back a little and centers better over the rear tire
If the extended swing arm lowered the rear, that also changes the rake and trail of the front. Does the front sit any different hight with the new forks than it did with the old? That of course will also affect the rake angle and trail. I agree with your other fans that suggested altering the rake angle by raising the fork tubes in their clamps. Cool build. Looks like fun!
I love the way that exhaust looks!
You may want to try some steering stabilizers. They really help with small wheeled bikes with more power than they were meant for. This build really made me want to go out and buy a CT70 and restomod it. Small bikes like that with some sticky tires and gobs of power are insanely fun.
This just made my day
She looks great John 👍 can't wait for the mini trophy truck
Y'all are so Awesome, Wish your show was longer..... John You And Ike are the Coolest 👋🙂Big Fan ... Love this show.
Because of this video I built my CT70 with a 212cc Hahahah by far my favorite build
Man you’re super smart and definitely super cool 😎 you’re my friend for life, keep the videos coming I’m learning how to perfect my own build 125cc on a bicycle frame (huffy) 😉
When I added fork to my st70 I had to lift the lower bering cup by putting a washer on before the cup and then putting on the bike. As the cut out for the turning stop isn't deeper enough! Meaning the string was sloppy or to tight. Worth a look!
Me and my Twin Sister watch you Both all the time sometimes on repeat 😅
Inspect your triple clamps (in particular the lower) to see if they're rubbing on the steering neck. I wish I was there to actually feel the steering problem, so I'm just kinda shooting from the hip. There's a few other things to check - like rake and trail. Be sure to confirm that your rear wheel is aligned and both wheels are centered. Handling issues are no good and can result in serious consequences. I know that I'm not there and haven't ridden the bike, but working on bikes is what I do. There could be other causes out there, but those are a few things to look at. Please get it worked out rather than trying to cope with it. I ride many different bikes that all handle differently, but despite their differences they should all feel stable. You riding as if drunk is not stable lol. Anywho, the bike looks awesome! Congrats! I'll have to get me something like this down the road.
I agree. Check center on wheels...
I love watching you all work and some of the things you come up with are cool for keep up the videos
Nice bike John! Johns Toy! I know Ike likes the patina on his trail but it’s time for Ike’s trail to be upgraded like Johns. It’s nice to see John and Ike having a good ride time riding around on a beautiful sunny day! Both of you get yourself a Snowcone!👍🏼👍🏼
Nice communication between you two
Yessss OMG Thank you this is amazing! can't wait to get mine together
Maybe tire pressure?
Love the show guys.
Waiting patiently for the trophy cart to be finished.
Hey guys, the needle clip position has no effect on full throttle air fuel ratio.
It does 1/4-3/4
Damn I see u on a few of the FB groups all th ed time lol
My grandfather had a CT70 as a child, and his dad bought it brand new at the Honda dealership for $300! Every since I heard that story I’ve wanted one, but boy aren’t they expensive.
My father bought me one in 1971 he paid $354.00.
You're supposed to hold the front brake on a motorcycle burnout.. Try that next time. A lot safer I would think!
RIGHT!!
Kind of funny how it sounds like it's even saying "vroom vroom!!" when you rev it, pretty neat... :P
I would get another spun aluminum tank and mount it on the other side and have three tanks the stock location one then one on either side with petcocks for each that would help for lack of economy
Love y'all I'm building a pitbike
68mph is impressive with the baffle in. Mine goes 82 with a homemade exhaust. my first ride with a baffle in the pipe i couldn't get over 30mph. The trailbuddy, drct70, daxdodo and japanwebike ainet front fork steering stem slop is somewhat normal. I'd say over half of all of the ones i've seen have that issue. A quick easy fix is to put Loctite 640 on the stem, upper tipple clamp and upper inner bearing race. Long term fix is to have a new stem made to fit tighter to the upper triple clamp and bearing race and have a machinest put a taper on the top of the inner upper race and the mating surface under the upper triple clamp.
Man this channel is amazing
Did you replace the steering head bearings? Looks like you have a center notch in the old original ball bearings you're fighting. ALWAYS upgrade to tapered roller bearings when possible.
I was just about to comment the same thing, because I noticed in a previous video he reused a traditional ball bearing setup. I used some tapered roller bearings from dratv when I rebuilt my CT70 K0 and I am very happy with them on the highway.
I only wished now that i would have bought my neighbor had setting on the back fence line . Love it 👍👍👍
Check the alignment of the rear wheel it can make it feel that way at higher speeds my truck had the same steering issue and feel
Long sorta s shaped metal coathanger witha small hook on the end hooked into wiring and pulled towards rear while pushing fuel tank downwards and forwards into white lithium greased rubber mounts makes it easy peasey... Increase main jet 2-3 sizes larger after lowering needle back down 2 notches should help your top end speed a bit... Also front end neck bearings should be packed with heavy grease prior to install taking care to fit them to cups before snugging down stem nut to just enough to have some drag on front end when off the ground before installing top plate taking care to lock it down with exact same distance on both sides between upper and lower tree... Also check tire pressures and play with them a little on those super sport tires ehich will effect handling in ruts and grooves in pavement..
Hi john, i modify and drive these kinda bike's in belgium ,
a few pointers for the allignement for the front wheel :
you gotta have the wheel straight in the middle of the forks, gotta make costum spacers , the wheel has to be in the middle.
also you got the chinese usd front fork, so each leg has to be evenly measure from the bracket's they slide into.
hope this helps greets bc
ps: sorry for the bad english
That bike style looks way better than the scooters everyone has
Plywood floors? Now that's awesome!!
Check the rear wheel alignment, and that the swingarm doesn't move side to side. Has a similar issue with my first bike build years ago.
I've been waiting for this video to come out ever since you started on this one
Hey guys just wondering where you got the loom from for johns bike as I really need one for a project I’m currently working on Thanks guys sweet bike John!
Cool bike I think it would look nicer with a black seat.
My girl said Ike sounds like Dr Phil sometimes and I can't unhear it.
theres been several times where theyve gotten ike to talk about propane, because he sounds like Hank Hill
Damn you for putting that in my head!! Now I hear dr Phil too
Wow that's a sweet looking bike! Sounds amazing also!
Currently rebuilding an xl70. Sick bike man
Maybe during the fork installation the axle and the triple tree aren’t parallel. Had a dirt bike once someone wrecked and it had the forks twisted in the stem clamps. Made sure axle was lose, loosened the clams then tightened the axle then re-tightened the fork clamps and trued it right up. Sweet ride! 👍
Could you check your rake and trail angles/ measurements and compare them with stock? Maybe it doesn't have enough trail or something with aftermarket fork setup. Also check rear wheel alignment compared to the front. Sucks that it doesn't track smooth.
Did you replace the cups in the head tube with the new ones? You can't re-use the existing cups with the new bearings, you need to pop out the old races or else you'll get some weird binding...
DUDE! You need to paint that thing PINK! And, ....... put some tassels on it! Aaaaaa ...... I am juz jealous!
my husband had a Honda Trail 70 back in the 70s and 80s
1 year later and it finally happened! I thought I would never see this thing again
It’s really cool.you guys should put a cheap mini bike together and build a ramp and send it off the pier.
This is so rad, killer work!! I have a '93 ct 70 with severe electrical problems and i have been scouring the webs for any assistance and not been lucky at all. On top of that no shops in my town will even look at it since it is old
Help?
Self etching primer is only used on aluminum not regular steel.. Epoxy primer would be what you'd want to use to start that with. And yes I actually do know, that was going to be my job until my back got in the way.. (or welding) I took autobody & paint in college.
Did you remember to grease the neck bearings? Ike should be on his Triumph, it'd be about the same power to weight ratio. Intercoms aren't going to help unless you have a Sena backpack on your GoPro so it'll record the audio from your intercom.
I love these kind of videos
My favorite bike you own.
Im super jealous of the digital display. I found it on ebay, but its for a 12v system and Im wanting to slap it on my 1968 CL90 that is running the original 6v system. Ive looked into potential conversions, but its my first project bike and parts/info on the CL90 is way more scarce than the CT70/CT90. I thought about just using a 6v to 12v converter for the display, but Im sure that would end up becoming more of a hassle than just swapping to a potential 12v system all together. Id love to get spokeless wheels like you have too. Doubt Ill do any off roading in the middle of the suburbs.
epic build guys i am saving up for a zs190 can't wait
I'd at least put a half a fender on the front to protect the radiator
Scott Tuttle Oil cooler.
@@300zxdriver oil cooling systems have a radiator...... that is how it cools the oil.
So next spring car and cameras bike ride coming lol would be cool af
Good ole little Washington. I grew up there, parents still live there.
Sweet machines. I'd be double checking the rear wheel alignment using the string method. Swing arm hash marks can be a bit rough.
I wish Honda would bring back the Trail 70, great little bike.
These clones are much better than earlier clones. They aren't Honda good but pretty good and tons of fun. www.icebearatv.com/product/pbz125-2 Look at Og Magi’s RUclips.
@@Chris-ck1fo Thanks!
Looking really fun, you guys Rock...
Take a clay bar to the paint and it should get rid of most of the overspray. Also the steering could be the height of the tripples on the front forks. Check to see if maybe the forks are too high.