Spoilboard and tramming on the Sainsmart Genmitsu 4040 Pro
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2024
- In this episode I show you how to make a spoilboard for the Genmitsu 4040 Pro. We will also be tramming the machine in to improve our results and engrave an alignment grid.
Spoil board files including the Carveco artwork
1drv.ms/u/s!AuoE9S3Cr4VZgqFEL...
This is a 1in version of the SpeTool bit I used and perfect for the job
amzn.to/3Kzu43p
Other surfacing bit - amzn.to/3BxDAzp
1/4 Collet insert - amzn.to/3JnEL6x
1/8th Bits for holes - amzn.to/3bjSr5Y
Tramming jig
www.thingiverse.com/thing:556...
00:00 Intro
01:26 Shopping list
03:35 Spoilboard
05:38 Making the holes
08:35 Surfacing
12:24 Tramming
16:55 Alignment grid
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Sainsmart Genmitsu 4040 Pro - shrsl.com/3x4v2
CORRECTION - I keep calling it the 60w spindle, but it is actually a 75w spindle
Thanks, this saved me a lot of time!
Once again
Thank you James
This video and the files are amazing.
Done the holes and surfaced (twice), didn't realise it was about an hour and half each run until after I had started the first one.
Will do the tramming and grid on Friday, hopefully won't have to resurface again 😀
Excellent video for all sorts of machines, I did these same steps on my extreme budget machine and it's got a nice flat surface now, thank you so much!!!
Thanks for all your beginner friendly videos.
Million THANKS JAMES !!! Just sent you a little bit of cash .YOU ARE THE BEST TRAINER FOR CNC LEARNING PERIOD.....
James, l have just received my 4040 yesterday and have it up and running. I am going to make my spoil board as soon as i can get the materal ( 1/4 mdf) and open up my journey into really doing cnc on a machine that has a larger carveing aera. Thanks again
For all you do to help us And teach us.
Nice job James, really well done.
Great information. I'll give this a shot when mine comes in this week. 🙂
Great video, this new machine is quite nice and well priced.
Thanks! I figure any time I watch a technical video, then replay at least once to transcribe the contents, I better tip the content provider. Your videos really instill confidence in a neophyte like myself. cheers!
Thank you very much. I'm glad they help 👍
Great video will be watching for all your content
Thank you 👍
Thumbs up, always great presentation. I will take my time and save up for a 6050 machine however. I'm sure this would be fine for a lite hobby machine, but, for me I will spend the money on a more robust machine and cry once ! Cheers and all the best from Utah !
I bought the 4030 and yeah I should have saved another 1k to get a good cnc. Replaced the drivers and mainboard and modded the lead screw fixtures to get less chatter.
I should have bought a Sorotec cnc 😂
You could also use a digital angle guage that has been zeroed to the bed to check the tram
Awesome video James! While following along I noticed the spoilboard width dimensions was listed incorrectly for inches. 435mm should be 17.125" (roughly). In the video it is listed as 19.7".
Super helpful video though and much appreciated!
lol after I made the 19.7 cut, I should have seen that too
Thanks for the great information as it helped me out. Do you happen to have plans on doing a video on how to add a dust collection system? I am now using my 1010 and generating a huge mess 😊
Thank you so much for your videos!! What CA glue and activator should I use?
James @8.50 you say to leave the spindle where it is. However the machine finishes the cut hole sequence on the last hole. Therefore we have to move the spindle back to x marks the spot. Luckily i had already set the command 1 setting.
Once the job finishes, it should return back to the centre. If it stops straight after finishing the hole then something will have gone wrong but at least you've sorted it 👍
Flat surface cuts to me pretty good. ))
Thanks!
Hey James!
Really awesome video, I have used this as my spoilboard for the past months, and the tramming really yielded a great result!
I just received and installed the X axis extension to get a 6040, and was wondering if you had the updated files for these new combinations (6040,4060,6060) ?
Regardless, thanks you for your videos, very instructive
Thanks James for your great videos
I'm very new to this, so your videos helped me out a great deal
I have 1 question
I have the Dewalt 611 with the 69mm adapter on my 400x400
Do i need to make an adjustment for that and move the board 2 mm forward or will running the Makita G-code?
Thanks again for your videos
Oh that's a good question and one I didn't cover. Yes in theory if you don't trip the limit switches. I generally allow a bit of play in my files so yes, hopefully 2mm should cover you
Hi James, I wondered if you have a solution to fitting a dust shoe to the 4040 when fitted with a Makita router? I tried the one meant for the 4030 but it's too big to use on the 4040.
The wood I have available is 0.218 in thick birch sanded plywood. Is this to thin to use for spoil board.
I am in US and 0.24 or 6mm is not around.
Thanks for all you great videos.
Good morning, James I have a question. I followed your tutorial for my first spoil board holding the board back to the point that you showed and used the spindle that came on 4040. I have since upgraded the spindle to the Makita router and installed the new Z-axis and want to resurface the board so how do I go about doing this with the board in the spindle location. Each phase of the procedure is shown for the spindle and the Makita but before I click on one of them just wanted to check with you first. I checked other post but didn’t see something that addressed my question. Thank you in advance and thank you for your tutorials.
Regards, Lamar
Great video James! I was wondering, could you make a video on building a metal bed for this machine to use it with coolant? I imagine something made from wide aluminum extrusions would be perfect for machining metal parts.
This machine doesn't actually require a bed as such it will be covered I my review but essentially drop a thin plate of metal on a table, bolt the machine down without the bed (perhaps a little silicone around the bolt holes) and you're good to go
Everybody likes to tram however, it is not needed on a machine that doesn’t have a high tolerance, such as a Bridgeport or Haas, CNC milling machine. What I’ve done is I would level the X and Y axis so that they are level with earth level then I would take a level and check the spindle and you can see if the spindle is 90° using the level to the waste board You can use one of those digital angle degrees as well. It works good. When you use the level or the angle measurement tool do you need to measure the front and the side of the spindle so you get both axis. I have done this and I’ve gotten it dialed in. Really good with no problems. You can use shims to adjust the corner of each side of the machine for leveling the X & Y axis.
If tramming helps the precision (which it does) then its needed. And for the short time it takes to tram it in, its well worth it. May not be your preference but its certainly improved my results on every machine I've had and I'll continue to do so
So I am using UGS and when I plugged in my 4040 and clicked home it went to the front left corner and the coordinates all say 000 on top and bottom.... I didnt see any other coordinates to write down per your tip. Did I screw something up?
Hi James I have done everything up to gluing the Spoil board on, When I try to use the link for drilling the holes and it opens up in carvco not UGS. I don't know what to do now. Just to let you know I have a Mac and I'm using Parallels. Any help would be great.
Cheers Mark
Love your videos, they are a big help in getting started with this machine. I downloaded your files for the spoilboard but keep having issues where they cause an alarm in UGS most likely running into a softstop. Not sure how to correct it, any help would be great. Thanks for all the effort making these vids.
Probably the Z. You have to lower the spindle pretty far down or else it will hit the soft limit switch and shut you down.
If I use a 3/4 in surfacing bit instead of your original larger one, do I need to change the G code at all? Thanks.
Brilliant video James. I've just ordered a router for the 4040, will you be doing a conversion video for it?
My review will be done using a router. Probably will not do a separate conversion video because it literally is just 4 bolts and then just tramming in it. I've already got a separate video out for installing an SSR which is all you really need
Hey james great video i have the makita and every time i try to surface the spoilboard it hits the right limit switch and gives alarm. I have the 1.5 in bit from Amazon how can i stop this. Thanks
i have been trying to set my grid on my spoil board and for some reason it is not letting me use what you said was available every time i try ti open the file there is nothing in it and i have destroyed 2 spoil boards trying to get it to work and it wont and so i tried to do it on my own and guess what i screwed up another board THANKS
REQUEST 😀 James - amazing content - eagerly expecting every new video from you. Now - Here is a "fix" for flimsy bed for Sainsmart 4040 - SKU: 101-63-R40P-HSP4040 . Can you review please? I just got it on my door step and will be installing tonigh, but I think with properly taken measurements we can replicate MDF pieces or even make them "taller" ? If this makes sense ? PLEEEEEEASEEEEE get them and we will expect review from you! Thanks a ton!!!
can we get a SVG file that we can upload to Easel?
Do you have to do this on the 6050 Prol?
Great video! Do you think it'll be possible to get the 4040 to run the 300w spindle left over from the 4030's?
It will run it but will need its own power supply I suspect to run it at full power
One other comment on shopping list. on the MDF you call out 435MM wide as 19.7 inches. I just want to make sure. I see the spoilboard is even with the base board and 19.7 would for sure be too big. 435MM is 17.12. Just want to make sure I am using the correct measurement. Thanks James!!
You're absolutely 💯 correct. Have no idea why I put 19.7 other than the board was originally 500mm wide. Either way 19.7in is the wrong width
@@JamesDeanDesigns Houston, we have a problem. We have NASA engineers making unit conversions again. Yes, I used the 19.7" dimensions and started cutting the holes. The metal inserts were not showing up in the holes. I would pause the program and I thought it was because I was using thinner MDF than 6 mm. Well after 4 holes I discovered my center was off because of the 19.7 in dimension. 435 mm = 17.125" or 17 1/8". Darn us Americans that still use the English system of units. It is a good thing our creations are NOT going to Mars. 😉
So if you have a Makita, you put the wasteboard all the way to the front, but still use the same file that the spindle would use for drilling the holes and flattening, correct?
There are separate files for the 60w and makita for each stage but you start both of them from the centre of the board and everything shuould line up
Given the way you secured the 6mm spoilboard to the mdf router base-board using a sandwich of 2" painter's tape and CYA glue/activator between the "slices", how do you later "remove" the spoilboard? Would you reccomend double-sided (as in carpet) tape?
the blue painters tape has 3 qualities, easy to remove, doesn't leave an adhesive residue behind, paints and adhesives don't soak into it. the CA glue gives you an instant, thin, strong bond. when you go to lift and remove the board the blue tape peals easily an comes off clean. most double sided tape is thick with very aggressive adhesive that hardens over time and will be difficult to remove the boards, may even tear chunks out of the MDF and will leave a mess on the surfaces. the blue painters tape and CA glue is a perfect idea
I have the spoil board glued down and started cutting the holes. The cut is not breaking through the bottom of the spoil board and is leaving a small plug in the center or the hole. I am using 1/4" MDF from Home Depot (US). I did move the spindle down as shown. I have not measured it (yet) but I'm thinking it's truly .25" and not .24" which is closer to the 6mm, so the cut file just isn't going deep enough.
I'm considering running the surfacing first, expecting (hoping) it will allow the bit to cut through the bottom. Anything different I could try?
Update. Yes it measures at 6.5mm. I'm sure that's why it didn't cut through.
I see James you didn't use the probe is there a reason I figured it would be easier than getting the bit to surface..like always great video
Truthfully, it was because I was being slightly lazy. It's hard to explain but because of how I was filming, it's difficult to get back and forth between the camera and PC so instead of keep going back and forth, I just lowered the Z down by hand until it touched the material. I am having a slight issue with UGS and the Z probe at the minute though which I'm trying to get to the bottom of
Thank you James, a truly interesting and instructive video, but I have to say that, after watching the video, I tried to achieve the verticality of the spindle with respect to the original aluminum plane, not the MDF spoiler, and it has been impossible for me, I give up. I have a Genmitsu 3020 Pro Max V2 machine expanded to 30x40 with the 710w Genmitsu spindle, which I have been very happy with so far, now I can't shake the thought that there is no way to correct its perpendicularity. How is it that the manufacturer has not provided an effective method to achieve this? My 3D printer does have a mechanism to level the base.
How do we compensate for the fixture flex in various tramming methods? Other videos suggest using a dial indicator on end of tramming fixture. Would that be necessary?
If I understand your question correctly, any flex should be consistent as you revolve your tramming jig so it should not really be necessary to factor that in as the tramming jig should really only just be scraping the surface
Thank you for the down load for the 4040 pro spoil board. I am using a Makita router . I homed I zeroed and my xy axis made a noise and these codes came up any help is appreciated. I used easel with no issues
Error G10 L20 P1 x0 y0 z0
I have questions about your spoil board measurements. My deck is only 17-5/16" wide so how are you getting a 19.7?
Hi James. my 60w holes endmill file stops at a particular point. first time happened and i restarted same file again but again it stopped at same exact point (on the 12th hole drilling on right bottom right corner of the board). what may be the problem?
shows ALARM HOLD SOFT RESET CYCLE START
As always, great video! Do you think this machine will be enough for milling aluminum with an upgrade router like the makita? Are the rails and motors strong enough?
Machinist here. By looking at the machine and looking up the specs, the answer is both yes and no. Would it be possible to make some chips? Yes, probably. Would you be able to make any functional parts? Not likely. The frame is not nearly rigid enough, the 10mm shafts are way to skinny and would flex and lead screws suffer from backlash.
These machines can do metal engravings and even cut pieces out but not to the precision that machinist would expect, so Snakedad is fairly accurate.
Thanks for the reply guys. I really appreciate it to help me find a decent all rounder machine without breaking the bank.
@@MasterNengLee usually machines that do metal well are often smaller work areas and are more ridged. For example this may be accurate to a few tenths of a millimeter, but a more ridged machine will work to within a few hundreds of a millimeter
Can't seem to find 1/4" MDF. Can you adjust your spoil board hole cutter to fit 1/2" MDF?
I'm just starting out so maybe you can just tell me what to change in gcode?
Thanks in advance
The correct dimensions for the Spoil Board are 15.75" (400 mm) x 17.125" (435 mm). Not the 19.7" (500 mm).
How can I change them from g sender? Thanks
Really surprised that the spindle height won't allow standard size bit to touch the spoilboard without covering the vents. Normal 3018's measure correctly! Its not one of the alternative mounting height of the spindle clamp scenarios?
Great video, I'm new to cnc and find your videos super helpful. I bought the 4040pro and used your videos and files. However I'm wondering if maybe I did something wrong in setup as I just ran my machine using your 60w holes file, it did the larger area of the hole but did not go all the way through? I made sure the bit was touching the spoilboard before running. The spoil board is 1/2" thick. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
What I mean is it didn't drill the center of the holes. Just to clarify
It is because you used 1/2 thick material. I do say in the video it needs to be 6mm (1/4in) MDF. Anything thicker and the job will not machine deep enough. I did include the original Carveco file in the download so if you use Carveco you could modify the file
@@JamesDeanDesigns AH! Thank you James, I did miss that.
Amazon shows a standard 75 watt spindle for the 4040. Is there any practical difference between 60w and 75w?
🤣 so it does and on their own site...oops! I've been calling it a 60w all the way through.
Are you going to make a spoilboard for GenMitsu 3030 Prover ? Thanks !
Hi James could you change the dimensions for the 4040 pro spoil board?
Why do you not use a larger spill board? If I wanted to make something the fullsize of the bed, I would not be able to with this one right? Are the files your provided easy to adapt to a larger peice of mdf?
If you used a piece larger than the work area, when you come to surface it you would effectively end up machining a pocket out so if ever you put a piece of material on your bad that hangs over one side or more then it would technically never sit flat. Can't remember the exact files I provided on this one but I think I started sharing the original drawings and Carveco files so you should be able to modify if required
Hi James, I had a problem with the Z axis creeping down on it's own weight and the bit would bog down into the material that I was trying to mill down. Sainsmart got back to me saying to try entering in $1=255 it seems to have worked, but I haven't really done any real work with the machine yet. Ever since the bit bogged down into the material I've been getting a lot of vibration through the machine now.
Thats one of the first settings I always change. I'm not 100% sure why they don't just set it to that as default.
Go around and check ALL the bolts on the machine. Vibration loosens bolts, which causes more vibration...which loosens the bolts even more
also check if the bit is being pulled down out of the chuck. it can happen if the chuck isn't tight enough an you are doing an aggressive cut.
Hi James
Just a query, should be getting one of these today
Have now got Carveco Maker and been playing with that a bit today
i cant see the Sainsmart 4040 Pro in Carveco Maker when saving toolpaths??
Any ideas please?
Just use GRBL (mm) or GRBL (in), they are the safest options
@@JamesDeanDesigns Thanks James
Wil have a look tomorrow
Hey James, I've tried running the Makita 65 mm holes and the machine stops with an alarm on the first hole, I'm not good at g-code so I do not know what I'm doing wrong
The file size is incorrect for the 4040 pro
In terms of rigidity, is this comparable to the masuter pro?
Yes, this is comparable to the masuter pro
suprised you haven't done a review on the extension kits for the 4040 in both directions.
May be on the cards....
Hey James I could only find 12.5mm mdf how can I use this to drill the holes when I ran it and it won't go all the way through
The only way really would be to edit my Carveco file that I included in the download. Do you have Carveco?
I used 12mm
I just ran the file and then drilled through the rest of the way with a 10mm drillbit
I have downloaded and extracted all the files. When I try to open any of the file with Vectric Cut2dpro I receive a message that reads "Can't run this file on this PC."
it seems to me a machine with a good frame, but the Z axis does not seem very robust to me, it is even more obvious with a makita router
My machine keeps stopping at the front right hole and says it has reached the machines limits?? The holes it has cut are lined up great.
Forgot to lower the spindle
Hi James, I have the same cnc but I'm at the beginning... I would like help on how to make a file to flatten my cutting board. If you want to give me a hand... Thanks and congratulations for your videos which I follow with great interest
Hi, It varies slightly between software but usually you draw a rectangle slightly larger than the material and then do it as an area clearance type pass. If using a large CNC bit, just make sure you take shallow passes to be safe
Why is there a set of holes that are offset from the others?
Just an extra set of clamping holes
jAMES I downloaded your spoiledbord file and is to big for genmitsu 4040 pro my cnc is400x400mm,Thanks I'm new with cnc I just purchased one two days ago
Let’s crack on boys and girls
It doesn't look like the files can't be used in easel unless anyone was able to import that can share how they did it. I only use Easel and don't use anything else. Thanks
The gcode files can be ran via Easel, you may just need to change the file extension on the end to what ever it is that Easel accepts, it will still work. Alternatively I think the SVG files should be in the folder as well in case you need to recreate it yourself
any idea why in easel the gcode file starts with the middle of the file in the bottom left corner? and do you know how to change that by chance?@@JamesDeanDesigns
i "wasteboarded" my time lol! the board your using is half size then what the bed is! next time point that out for dummys like me!!
17.7 inches not 19 😂😂.
I was way off. I Should’ve paid more attention in math class. Oh well my spoil board will have 3 extra holes for a while lol😂
Better to have too much than too little 😆