Katelyn you are soooo missing out with this set up IMO! The camera has much better options for quicker and more accurate AF. Hear me out, its a three button approach. First is shutter button set to spot or small area AF so you can focus and recompose in servo in the traditional way. Then your AF on button is set to eye AF which when depressed over-rides the shutter button meaning it has priority but still in servo. Then your * button is set to small spot focus in one shot. I have used this set up since I had my original R5 and R6 and now still have it of the R5II's, its amazing and never need to touch and drag and have a sore thumb or problems with your nose on the screen. It gives you every possible scenario and gives you total control over what the camera is focusing on. Use back button eye detect if you have a single person, with a couple you can choose with the front button who you want to prioritise and it sticks to them and the same with a group. If you are shooting details or trying to pick a person through a crowd then use the small point one shot to be more accurate and recompose. Have a try it's amazingly good. Also I use the depth of field button on the front of the body (instead of the small one on the back) as my review button so while I have it to my eye it zooms in to the focus point so you can check focus and click again to be full size. Half press the shutter and you are back to live view. Stops you looking like a tourist chimping the rear screen. That was a bit long...sorry😀
It's always tricky to know when a new camera will come out. Canon definitely does't have a predictable release cycle, so if you NEED an upgrade, I would just pull the trigger!
Awesome, thank you for those details! I do have to say the first thing I did when I got my R6m2 - I went over to your R6 video b/c I felt a little lost coming from the 5D3. Your settings definitely helped me get through that hump! Of course, we are always learning and changing! I have to go over my settings as I have adjusted some stuff since - and see where I have these things you mentioned. I have never used a custom button... but that is a great idea. I normally don't do multi-shot, but I did notice the last few events I have thrown it on. But I do stumble a little to get that setting. Hee hee.
Thanks a zillion KJ! Just purchased yr f/2 lens. My brand new R6 Mk2 is arriving any day now. 6 weddings on the calendar & I can’t wait to get started :-)
Great video, thanks. Have you found a way when there are, say 4 or 5 people in the EVF at one time, to 'tell' the camera which person you want eye tracked?
Honestly those are the scenarios I avoid eye tracking the most! You can use the joystick to toggle between eyes but I find myself just using regular servo in those situations!
Ahh yes that can be tricky! My only recommendation would be to play around with the little wheel next to the viewfinder. That adjusts the "focus" of the EVF. You might need to adjust that so you can see the EVF from further away so you're not so close to the screen? Good luck!
I recently was able to update from my 12 year old Canon 7D to the Canon EOS R6Mk2 . One massive leap. Yes the green and blue focusing points confused me at a recent local triathlon. I was was sure I was in servo mode until it dawned on me I had green focusing instead of blue. Hopefully lesson learned. As for whole area focusing, that will take some trials. 🐯
Question: if you have reprogrammed your button to be eye tracking, how do you adjust your aperture? Currently, I have to push the star button and then use the small wheel on top of the camera
If you have an R6 or R6II you can just rotate the thumbwheel on the back to adjust aperture. That is the factory default. If that is not how yours is set up you can change the dials settings so that it does this.
Are you shooting in Manual? I've always used the top dial for shutter speed and the big back dial for aperture. Did you switch it to SS for a specific reason?
I'll try those changes. But, being honest, I am having a hard time with my R6 MII. I had a R6 before. Sometimes, I want the camera to focus on the obvious person, and the eye track wants the person in the corner. Or there's only one person in front of me; I take several photos, and it comes out blurry. I don't understand it. I regret not exchanging it for a new one. I think something is wrong.
I would do some tests here to check that the camera is doing what it is supposed to do. I have not had these issues at all when I had my R6II. Reset the camera to the defaults and use the shutter button to spot focus and recompose the frame. If you set the AF to servo and have spot focus, then lock the focus with the shutter and recompose and see if that works ok. It's a simple thing, but have you also checked you haven't knocked the manual focus switch on the lens? Worth a look to just check.
Sorry to hear that! That's exactly why I turn it off. I prefer to be in total control so I don't have any issues with the camera selecting things I don't want. Even without the tracking features, the AF speed and accuracy on the MKII is definitely an upgrade from the MKI!
I would definitely check out some of our other R6MKII videos but basically I'd say the AF on the MKII is both faster and more accurate. The jump from the MKI to the MKII isn't nearly as drastic as the jump from the 5DMKIV to the R6 but it's definitely noticeable. I really don't use many of the "new" AF features the R6MKII offers but the speed and accuracy make it worth it for me!
@@KatelynJames Thank you so much! I will def check out the other videos about this, I have had my R6 for a couple of years and I absolutely Love it!! I too, had the mark iii before this and it was the workhorse of every session/wedding I photographed so any of the mirrorless options were a huge upgrade for sure. I use the AF features you mentioned in this video and that makes me feel better that I am not the only one that wants to be in control of my camera! Thanks for sharing ;)
Personally I just feel it's too slow and I feel less accurate using it vs my thumb on the screen. Granted, I don't use it much with the AF that first came with the R3 and spread to the R6II, R8, etc. I just leave it on single spot with subject detection and essentially "paint" the subject and let it track it while I recompose.
I just find the joystick too slow for how I like to shoot! I shoot in Servo primarily and will set my framing first then move the AF point to my client's face. So for that Touch and Drag is just much faster and more accurate!
This is me making fun of you in the comment section because this is the only question I asked you. I'm just about all your post about the camera. Hahaha soon as you brought this up I yelled "hell yeah "!!!
Thanks for explaining how you've set up your AF settings. However, not a fan of Touch and Drag (using back screen), although I'm right handed, I'm left eye dominant and this simply doesn't work as your face is in the way. :(
Sorry to hear that! My only suggestion would be to experiment with differnet quadrants of touch and drag to see if you can find one you can reach! Good luck!!
I have my R6MKII set up exactly as you do and I love the control. However, after making the switch from my R6 to the R6MKII I feel like when I'm at the reception with my flash on the focus struggles really badly. I haven't changed my flashes or other settings. Any "new" settings with MKII you have noticed or would suggest? I have tried shooting in more "One Shot" instead of "Servo" but I really don't remember that being an issue with my R6. It's become an issue during first dances even when they aren't moving quickly. :( Thanks for any ideas and of course all your education!
Lauren, I may be able to offer some help. Have you got the exposure simulation turned on for flash? If the camera is struggling to focus when it is darker it is probably not finding enough contrast to assist the focus system. With the exp comp on you will see a brighter image in the viewfinder and this will help focus. When you say reception do you mean just inside when they are having the meal and speeches or when it's on the dance floor? For dance floors mayhem, I manual focus to 1m then set the aperture to F9 and shoot on 20-24mm. You then just need to control your distance and everything will always be in focus. Hope that helps.
Whole area tracking looks like it’s similar to my Nikon’s 3D AF. I use 3D AF to track particular subjects that are coming towards me that may not work with eye AF and move very quickly.
I use the same configurations for the two buttons in the back of my original R6 and I love it. I also reprogrammed the button used for back focusing to adjust exposure compensation when I'm in Tv or Av mode. In combination with the histogram, the option to change the exposure compensation without leaving my eye from the view finder is the best use I found for that button. The only drawback is that this button becomes useless when I'm in M mode. But since Tv and Av are sometimes quite useful, I can live with that.
Turning off Whole area tracking would seem to kill one of the R6ii's greatest strengths, the ability to lock on and track a subject. If you turn it off, as soon as you recompose or your subject moves out from under your manually positioned focus point, the camera, if in servo mode, will refocus on whatever is now under the focus point. You would then have to move your focus point again (maybe that's why you like touch-and-drag so much.). If you leave this setting turned on, and shooting servo, just place you focus point on the face you want, activate focus (shutter half press or BFF if you do that), and reframe, zoom, do whatever you want. The camera will keep that subject locked on until you release and refocus on something else. It's way faster than even the joystick. OK yeah, if not a face, the R6ii won't always grab and lock on what you want it to with that blue box. That's when you switch to one-shot and fall back on traditional focus-and-reframe.
In wedding photography, the whole area tracking box is way too random with what it chooses to lock on to and jumps around. Even if you set it to the most sticky setting, you can't trust that it won't randomly grab something else in an important moment with more contrast etc. The Eye tracking is a lot more reliable and safe. I shoot Sony and Canon, and Sony's version of the Subject tracking is far more reliable, but with Canon it was more of a stress.
@@skyiswomb1 Interesting. I don't shoot weddings, but I shoot events with the R6ii in busy settings and often poor lighting. Are you using area AF or something? With spot AF, my cameras don't "randomly grab something." They grab whatever I put the spot on. If it's a face or eye, yeah, they lock on hard. If it's something else, it may skip off, but a quick reset or one-button swap to one-shot, and I'm good to go. Still faster, I believe than turning it off and having to use touch and drag or the joystick in that "important moment."
Correct! It can be a useful feature for some people but I've found it slows me down more than helps me so that's why I turn it off. But I'm sure it's great for certain shooting styles!
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Katelyn you are soooo missing out with this set up IMO! The camera has much better options for quicker and more accurate AF. Hear me out, its a three button approach. First is shutter button set to spot or small area AF so you can focus and recompose in servo in the traditional way. Then your AF on button is set to eye AF which when depressed over-rides the shutter button meaning it has priority but still in servo. Then your * button is set to small spot focus in one shot. I have used this set up since I had my original R5 and R6 and now still have it of the R5II's, its amazing and never need to touch and drag and have a sore thumb or problems with your nose on the screen. It gives you every possible scenario and gives you total control over what the camera is focusing on. Use back button eye detect if you have a single person, with a couple you can choose with the front button who you want to prioritise and it sticks to them and the same with a group. If you are shooting details or trying to pick a person through a crowd then use the small point one shot to be more accurate and recompose. Have a try it's amazingly good. Also I use the depth of field button on the front of the body (instead of the small one on the back) as my review button so while I have it to my eye it zooms in to the focus point so you can check focus and click again to be full size. Half press the shutter and you are back to live view. Stops you looking like a tourist chimping the rear screen. That was a bit long...sorry😀
This is the way
Love this insight!!!! Would you make a video on this? It is a bit hard to follow.
Super interesting, thanks for sharing!!
Your aesthetic is absolutely beautiful!
Thank you!!
Thank you so much. I learned new things like blue is servo and green is one shot 😅 Mind blown 😂❤ Love your videos. Thank you.
Haha, see I knew I wouldn't be the only one! Thanks for sharing and making me feel better!!
Thank you for this video.
It worked on Canon R8, Thank You!
Yay! So glad that worked for you!
Looking to either getting the R6 Markii or waiting on the R6 Markiii to come out. Thank you for explaining the settings! This is great!
It's always tricky to know when a new camera will come out. Canon definitely does't have a predictable release cycle, so if you NEED an upgrade, I would just pull the trigger!
Thank you, Katelyn! Straight to the point as always ❤
Awesome, thank you for those details! I do have to say the first thing I did when I got my R6m2 - I went over to your R6 video b/c I felt a little lost coming from the 5D3. Your settings definitely helped me get through that hump! Of course, we are always learning and changing! I have to go over my settings as I have adjusted some stuff since - and see where I have these things you mentioned. I have never used a custom button... but that is a great idea. I normally don't do multi-shot, but I did notice the last few events I have thrown it on. But I do stumble a little to get that setting. Hee hee.
Thanks for sharing this! Lots of good info in this!
👍👍👍Katelyn EXCELLENT. Thanks ❤❤❤
You are so welcome! Thanks for watching!
Thanks a zillion KJ! Just purchased yr f/2 lens. My brand new R6 Mk2 is arriving any day now. 6 weddings on the calendar & I can’t wait to get started :-)
That's amazing, good for you!! You're going to love that combination!!
Lots of functionalities on these cameras (computers) appreciate your very informative video think I watched and paused it 10 times.
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!!
Great video, thanks. Have you found a way when there are, say 4 or 5 people in the EVF at one time, to 'tell' the camera which person you want eye tracked?
Honestly those are the scenarios I avoid eye tracking the most! You can use the joystick to toggle between eyes but I find myself just using regular servo in those situations!
@KatelynJames OK, thanks much. Kind regards
Thank you, Katelyn. You are incredible; I'm still learning. I just can not figure out how to use with my glasses, UGH!!
Ahh yes that can be tricky! My only recommendation would be to play around with the little wheel next to the viewfinder. That adjusts the "focus" of the EVF. You might need to adjust that so you can see the EVF from further away so you're not so close to the screen? Good luck!
I recently was able to update from my 12 year old Canon 7D to the Canon EOS R6Mk2 . One massive leap. Yes the green and blue focusing points confused me at a recent local triathlon. I was was sure I was in servo mode until it dawned on me I had green focusing instead of blue. Hopefully lesson learned. As for whole area focusing, that will take some trials. 🐯
Wow, that is a massive leap! Yes, a lot of this comes down to personal preference so I definitely recommend experimenting!
Just curious have you had a chance to use the canon R1 any thoughts or just not your cup of tea lol
I have not! Definitely not my cup of tea. I might test out the R5MKII for a video in the future but even that feels like too much camera for me 😂
Question: if you have reprogrammed your button to be eye tracking, how do you adjust your aperture? Currently, I have to push the star button and then use the small wheel on top of the camera
If you have an R6 or R6II you can just rotate the thumbwheel on the back to adjust aperture. That is the factory default. If that is not how yours is set up you can change the dials settings so that it does this.
@ ah yeah, I have the big wheel set to adjust shutter speed.
Are you shooting in Manual? I've always used the top dial for shutter speed and the big back dial for aperture. Did you switch it to SS for a specific reason?
I'll try those changes. But, being honest, I am having a hard time with my R6 MII. I had a R6 before. Sometimes, I want the camera to focus on the obvious person, and the eye track wants the person in the corner. Or there's only one person in front of me; I take several photos, and it comes out blurry. I don't understand it. I regret not exchanging it for a new one. I think something is wrong.
I would do some tests here to check that the camera is doing what it is supposed to do. I have not had these issues at all when I had my R6II. Reset the camera to the defaults and use the shutter button to spot focus and recompose the frame. If you set the AF to servo and have spot focus, then lock the focus with the shutter and recompose and see if that works ok. It's a simple thing, but have you also checked you haven't knocked the manual focus switch on the lens? Worth a look to just check.
Sorry to hear that! That's exactly why I turn it off. I prefer to be in total control so I don't have any issues with the camera selecting things I don't want. Even without the tracking features, the AF speed and accuracy on the MKII is definitely an upgrade from the MKI!
I have most of these features on my R6. Is there a major difference with these features on the Mark II for me to upgrade?
I would definitely check out some of our other R6MKII videos but basically I'd say the AF on the MKII is both faster and more accurate. The jump from the MKI to the MKII isn't nearly as drastic as the jump from the 5DMKIV to the R6 but it's definitely noticeable.
I really don't use many of the "new" AF features the R6MKII offers but the speed and accuracy make it worth it for me!
@@KatelynJames Thank you so much! I will def check out the other videos about this, I have had my R6 for a couple of years and I absolutely Love it!! I too, had the mark iii before this and it was the workhorse of every session/wedding I photographed so any of the mirrorless options were a huge upgrade for sure. I use the AF features you mentioned in this video and that makes me feel better that I am not the only one that wants to be in control of my camera! Thanks for sharing ;)
Just out of curiosity, why don’t you use a joystick to move your focus point
You can over-correct with the joystick, but there's no "drift" with using a thumb on the screen.
Personally I just feel it's too slow and I feel less accurate using it vs my thumb on the screen. Granted, I don't use it much with the AF that first came with the R3 and spread to the R6II, R8, etc. I just leave it on single spot with subject detection and essentially "paint" the subject and let it track it while I recompose.
I just find the joystick too slow for how I like to shoot! I shoot in Servo primarily and will set my framing first then move the AF point to my client's face. So for that Touch and Drag is just much faster and more accurate!
This is me making fun of you in the comment section because this is the only question I asked you. I'm just about all your post about the camera. Hahaha soon as you brought this up I yelled "hell yeah "!!!
Thanks for explaining how you've set up your AF settings. However, not a fan of Touch and Drag (using back screen), although I'm right handed, I'm left eye dominant and this simply doesn't work as your face is in the way. :(
Sorry to hear that! My only suggestion would be to experiment with differnet quadrants of touch and drag to see if you can find one you can reach! Good luck!!
My option to detect 'none' in the subject to detect menu is not highlighted. Any idea how to change this?
Hmmm no idea, sorry! Wish I could help!!
I LOVE TO USE THE JOYSTICK I Have the R6 mark ii also
For some people it works great! But it's not what I prefer.
I have my R6MKII set up exactly as you do and I love the control. However, after making the switch from my R6 to the R6MKII I feel like when I'm at the reception with my flash on the focus struggles really badly. I haven't changed my flashes or other settings. Any "new" settings with MKII you have noticed or would suggest? I have tried shooting in more "One Shot" instead of "Servo" but I really don't remember that being an issue with my R6. It's become an issue during first dances even when they aren't moving quickly. :( Thanks for any ideas and of course all your education!
Lauren, I may be able to offer some help. Have you got the exposure simulation turned on for flash? If the camera is struggling to focus when it is darker it is probably not finding enough contrast to assist the focus system. With the exp comp on you will see a brighter image in the viewfinder and this will help focus. When you say reception do you mean just inside when they are having the meal and speeches or when it's on the dance floor? For dance floors mayhem, I manual focus to 1m then set the aperture to F9 and shoot on 20-24mm. You then just need to control your distance and everything will always be in focus. Hope that helps.
Hmm interesting! I haven't had any issues but I'll try to test it out next time I shoot a wedding!
Whole area tracking looks like it’s similar to my Nikon’s 3D AF. I use 3D AF to track particular subjects that are coming towards me that may not work with eye AF and move very quickly.
Sounds like it! It can definitely be helpful in specific circumstances, I just don't prefer it for my shooting style!
I use the same configurations for the two buttons in the back of my original R6 and I love it. I also reprogrammed the button used for back focusing to adjust exposure compensation when I'm in Tv or Av mode. In combination with the histogram, the option to change the exposure compensation without leaving my eye from the view finder is the best use I found for that button. The only drawback is that this button becomes useless when I'm in M mode. But since Tv and Av are sometimes quite useful, I can live with that.
That's a smart idea! I don't use exposure compensation so that isn't something I would need, but it's definitely a clever solution!!
Turning off Whole area tracking would seem to kill one of the R6ii's greatest strengths, the ability to lock on and track a subject. If you turn it off, as soon as you recompose or your subject moves out from under your manually positioned focus point, the camera, if in servo mode, will refocus on whatever is now under the focus point. You would then have to move your focus point again (maybe that's why you like touch-and-drag so much.). If you leave this setting turned on, and shooting servo, just place you focus point on the face you want, activate focus (shutter half press or BFF if you do that), and reframe, zoom, do whatever you want. The camera will keep that subject locked on until you release and refocus on something else. It's way faster than even the joystick.
OK yeah, if not a face, the R6ii won't always grab and lock on what you want it to with that blue box. That's when you switch to one-shot and fall back on traditional focus-and-reframe.
In wedding photography, the whole area tracking box is way too random with what it chooses to lock on to and jumps around. Even if you set it to the most sticky setting, you can't trust that it won't randomly grab something else in an important moment with more contrast etc. The Eye tracking is a lot more reliable and safe. I shoot Sony and Canon, and Sony's version of the Subject tracking is far more reliable, but with Canon it was more of a stress.
@@skyiswomb1 Interesting. I don't shoot weddings, but I shoot events with the R6ii in busy settings and often poor lighting. Are you using area AF or something? With spot AF, my cameras don't "randomly grab something." They grab whatever I put the spot on. If it's a face or eye, yeah, they lock on hard. If it's something else, it may skip off, but a quick reset or one-button swap to one-shot, and I'm good to go. Still faster, I believe than turning it off and having to use touch and drag or the joystick in that "important moment."
Correct! It can be a useful feature for some people but I've found it slows me down more than helps me so that's why I turn it off. But I'm sure it's great for certain shooting styles!
That is crazy to hold the camera with that 1,000 pound lens without a industrial strength camera strap.