Excellent video! So we have a 2017 Nissan Rogue and we have changed the CVT fluid on it every 25000 miles with the top of the line Amsoil CVT full synthetic fluid. It's also equally as important as to change the external transmission filter, something a lot of people overlook.
@@MattStephensRich Awesome because my research shows that the pan filter inside the transmission Pan is only up to 2016. 2017 and up there's only one external filter so I would be curious what you find on the 2019. 👍
This has definitely been one of the hardest auto videos I’ve had to research for lol just a lot of variation without a lot of documentation. I do expect two filters as this is a Jatco8; will be checking things out this weekend, and keep you posted!
@@MattStephensRich yes pan filter and exterior filter, it's behind the driver wheel. I will probably do both this spring, I changed the transmission fluid but it was so dirty I'm doing it again 3.5Q dropping the pan, will really appreciate your video if you do this👍Using Nissan NS3 , they raped me @.$27 a Quart.Will get a few more @$20 online.Next time I'm going to buy Amsoil fluid.
@@jonmo2694 Mid-shoot on the current video! Transmission pan and bottom filter are in; still needing to tackle the smaller, particulate filter. Still recovering from rolling around on the ground a bunch chasing the screws. :P
in this video when he sows the drain bolt there is another bolt just to the left and that is the over flow bolt . you start the car and put it in neutral and then remove the over flow bolt and let it drain till it is at a slow drip them instill the drain bolt and tighten . and then your good to go
When the plug is removed, the fluid overflow will have a BURP and then a steady flow untill it slows and stops. Reinstall the plug. That is the most accurate procedure.
I don't have that drain, just a dipstick. Nissan Rogue 2015 Select. I overfilled thinking i'd be able to open that and the excess fluid would drain out. Then i went to look for that bolt and it wasn't there at all. I had to get really dirty and remove the transmission bolt again and lose some fluid but i had no choice.
Shouldn’t it be don’t open bolt while running? Instead open bolt while off and oil cold in case of overfill. Then warm up oil to temp, turn off vehicle, open bolt 1 more time to ensure proper level.
Loved this video this will be my first time doing my change as a single mom I know how to do the oil change and now I know how to do the transmission thanks to you ❤
Hi Matt, I wanted to thank you again for your excellent video! Let me explain below how you helped me: -I have a 2017 Rogue Hybrid with 80K miles. A few months ago, it started jerking and shuddering, especially when moving at a slow speed while in bumper-to-bumper traffic, or accelerating after a full stop. I brought it into the Nissan dealer, who diagnosed that the CVT transmission was shot and I needed to replace the entire unit @ $11K total cost. The car is only worth $14K, so this caused serious heartburn on what to do next. 😒 -After doing further research, I found out that this is a common problem with Nissan CVT's, so much so that Nissan has extended the warranty on the CVT to 84 months/80K miles on most models (unfortunately, for some reason it did not apply to my Hybrid😒). They even have developed a term for the symptom of this problem - they call it "juddering." -During my research, I read that someone had solved this problem simply by changing the CVT fluid. -I found and watched your video, and decided to take a gamble and invest $100-$200 to see if I could avoid spending $11K. I went to the Nissan dealer and bought a supply of CVT NS-3 fluid (@$28/quart = liquid gold!). -I performed the drain procedure exactly as you outlined. I ended up draining and replacing 3.5 qts. of fluid. Great news - after the first drain procedure, the juddering problem went away! But for good measure, I performed the procedure again, consuming a total of 7 qts of new fluid @ total cost of $200. I have been driving the car around for a week now, and (knock on wood) this seems to have completely cured the problem! 👍😊 -Here are a few of my observations that I experienced that hopefully will be of help to future viewers: 1. I was able to access the drain plug without having to jack up the front of the car. In your video, I believe you mentioned you jacked up the car only to allow for a better view. 2. Getting the bottom shroud cover off proved to be very time-consuming. When I re-install it, I will cut a new hole so I can easily access the transmission oil drain plug in the future. 2. Getting that troublesome little plug off of the top of the fill tube proved to be a major pain. But your video did a great job of explaining it, and I had to go back to it several times before I got the hang of it. I was erroneously trying to put the screwdriver tip on the fill tube side of the metal tab and pushing all the way down as far as it would go before starting to pry. It took me a little while to realize that I only need to push the screwdriver tip down the metal tab until it engages the small black plastic tab on the plug, and then start prying. Once I had this epiphany, I was able to remove it easily!
The overflow bolt is easier to use than a dipstick. You take the bolt out and let the extra oil drain out. If nothing comes out, you didn't put enough in. It's very simple and means if you accidentally pour in an extra half a quart, it just comes out of the bolt hole easy peazy. If you pour too much in an old-school transmission you have to futz with sucking the extra out of the dipstick tube or wasting a drain plug gasket and likely making a mess trying to drain out of the bottom. I like the overflow bolt. 🤷 At least Nissan left the dipstick tube in place to make filling easier, unlike Hyundai/Kia and so many others which just have a tiny bolt that makes a mess or requires special tools to fill.
I started using the new Castrol TransMax for both CVT and regular transmissions. It has real high ratings and certified to replace Nissan NS2 and 3. It's also only $24 per gallon on Amazon so it lowers my maintenance costs significantly. I've learned if you change the CVT fluid every 25K that will greatly increase the life of these transmissions that have gotten a bad rap in recent years. My 2014 NV200 is out of warranty for those that will remind me it will void my warranty. Van runs great. BTW you can insert the stick backwards to measure the fluid without locking the cap when you're testing your fill levels. I bought this cargo van used as a weekend project van build. It only had 40K miles on it, so it sat in the garage a lot. I went ahead and did 3 drains as I read somewhere it takes three to get most of the old fluid out. So total cost was less than $75. Compare that to NS3 fluid or taking it to the stealership.
Part of their bad rap is from insufficient cooling. Also depending on your year you may even have a sticking valve in its oil pump. That is probably the most deadly thing to these other than an overfill or use of ATF.
The same dipstick tube fill port can be utilized to add transmission fluid in order to reach the desired maximum level. Pro tip: Use a full synthetic CVT/ATF EQUIVALENT TO THE NISSAN CONVENTIONAL TRANSMISSION FLUID FOR SUPERIOR, LONG, LASTING PROTECTION. ALSO IT IS BEST TO DRAIN AND FILL THE TRANSMISSION FLUID EVERY 20,000 MILES OR 32,000 KM IN CANADIAN MILES. These 2 recommendations will ensure a longer lasting transmission and greatly reduce the failure rate, then, if otherwise, following Nissans recommendation, which has their best interest at hand, and not yours. Always remember manufacturers sell cars and want to sell you a new one because that is their business and the entire premise of a company that manufactures vehicles. When something says lifetime fluid, it is often misinterpreted and understandably so. Lifetime fluid simply refers to what the manufacturer considers to be the lifetime of that particular component such as a transmission or cooling system or engine. so if the warranty is 60,000 miles on any given component? This is what's considered lifetime of that component and once out of the warranty period They are free and clear in hopes of you needing a major repair that could outweigh repairing it when compared to the purchase of a new vehicle. Dealerships, don't make a lot of money on the sale of a vehicle. Where the real money is made is the after purchase sales of an extended warranty, paint, protection, piece of mind protection, powertrain protection, over and above the standard manufacture warranty. These tactics are often expressed in such a manner that often instill fear of the unknown rather than a wait and see approach approach? Not to mention many of the servicing intervals have been greatly extended in order to entice customers to buy their vehicles, because you can save so much of your precious time by not servicing the vehicle as often. Unfortunately this has become common practice with all of the vehicle manufactures in order to remain at par to not lose their portion of newly purchased vehicle market share. Always remember they sell vehicles and they want you to come back as soon as possible to buy another one! if they lasted forever, there wouldn't be many car companies needed. A dealership would much rather replace your transmission simply knowing that they have put in a brand new component rather than repair a transmission and have to warranty an already failing poorly designed transmission, strut tower, control alarm, alternator or catalytic converter etc. It's always in a dealership best interest to replace a component to minimize a return repair, cutting into their bottom line.
I believe even with the CVT (vs. traditional ATs), its fluid should be checked while the engine is at idle with fluid temperature is between 170F to 180F.
On Nissan rogue your not suppose to have engine on while you stick in a dipstick to measure I think that's why this vehicle doesn't come with one it could damage internal parts.
I was drafting a comment about not driving with the dipstick when you mentioned that in the video! Thank you for all the research and runarounds this video took 😅
@@MattStephensRich I installed the dipstick right after we got our used 2015 Rogue with 30,000 miles on it. 5 years later and it now has 98,000 miles and the dipstick has caused no problems that I'm aware. I had not heard that you were not supposed to drive with it in. What problem has been reported that this can cause? Thanks!
@@carlkeefjr1303 I picked up a dipstick from ebay to use on my 2020 Rouge SV. Already knew of this from my 2017 Altima. Did a warm up after fighting and finally getting the plug out and checked with the dipstick and it was right at the top v notch of the hatch mark area, drained and poured into a clear jug to get an idea of amount needed. 3.8 qts for mine. I just hang the dipstick up on the wall till needed again and turn the plug cap lock tab section to the opposite side and slide it back on. The O-ring fits snug and it isn't gonna fall out. I see no reason why the dipstick couldn't just stay in. My Rouge only had 8069 miles on it when i bought it last Dec.2023. Has 10855 this last weekend when i did the drain and fill with TriaX CVT fluid. Will do again at 15K and 20K so i know i have new fluid. Then go to 30k mile interval.
I managed to do it myself, Rouge 2015 S. 200k km never changed before. Report for the records; - The cap for the oil reservoir is hell to take out, I cut it off with oscillating machine!!! you think it is rough start!! - I don't have the dip stick, so i used a long zip tie ~25'', and i took the mark of the original oil. I fed the zip tie too much at the beginning, it caught into something inside!! with some patience and force i released it, I panicked for 2 minutes, hopefully it didn't damaged something inside. - Removed 12 clips for the black fabric - I left the drain plug attached as i found it rusty, and i don't have crush washer. so i preferred to leave it sealed as is. - I unscrewed 19 screws. Some of them were very rusty. Took the pan down with some splashes. - Changed the screen filter. - Removed the gasket, it was very attached to the metal. it left some unremovable parts on the metal. I tried to scrap it but didn't want to create solid powder inside. - Failed to unscrew the cooling filter cover. 2 screws are very hard to reach or to access. Even i have accessories for the socket wrench. It needs very low profile 10mm socket. So i decide to skip this filter. - cleaned the pan, put new gasket. - screwed back 19 screws - Added the oil, it took 4 liters. You need a long thin funnel. - It took around 5 hours (it could take 3 without my shenanigans)
Great video - FYI on page 9-6 of the manual you shared, both of those paragraphs refer to if the vehicle is used for towing, using a camper or car top carrier, or driving on rough muddy roads. Otherwise, Nissan suggest not replacing the CVT fluid. The 60k miles you referred to is still bullet pointed under the towing section, and is referencing the the deterioration data that comes back from sending in a sample to a lab. With that said - your future self will thank you for changing the CVT fluid every 50-60 k miles regardliess.
Glad it was helpful! There is indeed an external filter that is a total pain to get to. TBH, I’d recommend focusing first on the fluid swap, and you can go after filters if you so choose.
Very important that the vehicle is level and fluid at operating temp for an accurate check of the fluid level. Fluid expands with temp. Cold will not give you an accurate level as so many are saying here.
I never knew fluid could contract at a hotter temperature.... Maybe the transmission was just overfilled, or the markings on the aftermarket dipstick were incorrect. Maybe the hashmarks showed the expanded "HOT" reading, and maybe the notches on the side were the cold reading.
I just spoke to dealership on how they “check” the CVT fluid. He said they don’t. Their process is they drain the fluid and add 7 and 3/4 quarter exactly.
@@tedpirsig154 i think its because you didnt take out the overflow plug, i'm not sure of the rogue has it, but my nissan has it. its beneath the drain plug, reach it with an allen key.
If you go look at those owners manual pages again, it's actually not contradicting. The first page you showed specifically states they're instructions for if you are towing or driving on dirty/muddy roads. The table that says inspect would be for regular driving conditions. Now obviously the manual isn't giving good information, telling the owner that they only should inspect, but it is consistent.
What I think is silly are those people who expect to get 100,000 miles out of the original fluid. they don't realize that modern transmissions need a lot of maintenance that most people neglect to have done. Then they wonder why they have so many problems. I used to own a Volkswagen and one mistake they made is telling people that it is a lifetime fluid and never needs changed. Then the gullible people who believed that wondered why it failed so soon!! VW recommends 60,000 miles now but really it should be more like 25,000 - 30,000. Look at their DSG they are at least smart enough to make it mandatory 40,000 miles between changes. It is not really mandatory but if you try to make that fluid last forever you will be sorry you didn't listen!!
Just had the ATF flushed on my 2015 at a local transmission shop. Paid over $300 but had to bite the bullet as I didn't know if the previous owner did it recently and as this video states, you can't even look at the damn fluid ! I've heard with these CVT transmissions you better flush ( not just drain and fill) every 25-30k or so
1)use metric tools on a metric car. 2) Dealership service advisor said: CVT has no filter, cannot be flushed since has valves which cannot be evacuated dry. just drain, measure, refill exact same amount every 30k. No need to repeat for 30k. Owner's manual needs clarification. If you catch every drop & measure, no dipstick needed
1. Do notice I have 19mm in the video description; you’ll also find ¾ inch socket is 19.05mm equivalence, and still makes for a great fit. 2. There’s actually two filters on this Jatco8, one strainer filter below and a finer particulate filter in the middle of the housing. Drain and replace of fluid is the biggest priority, but filters can be swapped and it is honestly advise will give him the massive class action lawsuits in recall over these CVTs having failure. (Working on a follow up video showing this) 3. Dipsticks are we still really helpful. There is a bleeder valve below you can also use for checking fluid level, but wanted to show a dipstick solution as that’s often most familiar for the masses.
You can find it in the Nissan parts catalogue, or even search "Nissan CVT filter" on RUclips for good coverage. Speedkar recently tore apart a Jatco 7 (previous gen), which shows a good sightline on both filters :) :ruclips.net/video/Rhx-Hpn1Q90/видео.html
Hi, great video! I now have the confidence to try it on my own. Quick question: At the beginning of the video, you mentioned that you have to perform this procedure more than once because you cannot drain out all of the transmission fluid. So you are basically replacing the majority of the fluid through multiple oil changes and dilution. How many times do you need to repeat this procedure to for all intents and purposes replace all of the old fluid? Thanks!
Excellent video Matt, thank you for this. I've done one CVT fluid d&f on daughter's 17 2.5L Rogue but this vid would have really helped me. I watched lots of vids on how to get cap off, still broke plastic clip. 😆 After finished held it on with a twist tie until bought new cap, worked fine. I used Valvoline Full Synthetic dedicated CVT fluid. Not newer CVT/w trans fluid, won't use that. Seems to be doing fine. I know Eneos good stuff. Didn't realize crush washer CVT drain plug same as oil drain plug. Wish I had known which dipstick was correct one, just put back amount out. Few questions for you. After putting CVT through gears, you checked the level with the engine off, correct? What was CVT level after warm up to operating temp? Within crosshatch area, or slightly above? How much fluid did you actually refill? After watching this, I will be doing another, this time w/ linked dipstick. Thanks again. I can tell you, there is a longer neck funnel that works better than the shorty you used. It's made by Hopkins/FloTool. Looks like AZ carries it.
Glad the video was helpful! For your questions: 1. Yes I was checking the fluid level. You *could* check while jacked up, just be sure to note the fluid level beforehand to be sure it’s a match. 2. It’s recommended to check the fluid level warm for transmissions. You also can check cold, just be sure (again) to note the fluid level before hand (while also cold) and compare to that. 3. Yes, we want to be within the crosshatch target level. 4. 3.75 quarts seems to be the consistent yield for draining through the bolt. I have a Follow-Up video where we are dropping the pan, which gets a bit more.
@@MattStephensRich Thanks for the reply Matt. I was able to drain the fluid on the level ground. I think I loosened the drain plug while on ramps, just enough to break free but not drip, then did a vehicle level drain. For answer 2.), did you mean to say recommended check level when "warm", (in cross hatch), because you went on to say you "can also do cold just check level prior." Because I've done it once with no dipstick, I don't really have a confident reference like you did so I'll be using your diy as guide for the next d&f. Dipstick arrived from Amazon yesterday. Hope my follow up question not too much of pain. I subscribed and will be sure to watch follow up vid. Thanks again. 👍
Dipstick will greatly help! And yes, you’re correct to be in the crosshatch while warm (and ideally, it’s always best to check while warm). You’re exactly right on what I was trying to get at for checking cold - essentially, as long as you have an initial reference line, you could check cold.
I have also seen the CVT fluid that also says it is an ATF. That scares me a little bit too really. I wonder if that stuff has been ruining CVTs considering how sensitive they are known to be. You really don't want ATF anywhere near these things because if you dump that in there you will have to get the whole thing flushed or kiss your CVT goodbye in 1,000 to 2,000 miles. That may even kill it quicker than that really.
There is some horrible information in this video although I appreciate the effort trying to help people. You should never wrench on a drain pan bolt as hard as you can that is very bad information that can easily lead to strip threads when it's removed next time or right away. And you don't need oil to make a seal on a crush washer the whole purpose, and the reason you have to use a new one every time, is that the metal crushes and forms to make the seal perfectly the same shape as the other metal it's making contact with. The oil might help you get the crush washer off next time but I've never had any trouble with them coming off either way. And don't forget that fluid expands as it is heated so the reason it is showing too full is not because the fluid is cold. After seeing that you should definitely be verifying whether the engine is supposed to be running when it's checked or not though because an engine running while it's checked will suck the fluid level down. You should also know which specific temperature of the fluid should be. With that said there is some good information like the third party dipsticks being available etcetera so it's not all bad but some of that advice could lead people to thousands of dollars worth of repair damage.
@@MattStephensRich @17:08 the video says to use motor oil or trans fluid or something to make sure the crush washer has a good seal. Crush washers don't need anything to make a good seal. Sometimes you can get by with reusing them two or three times but you're supposed to, and I would, change them every time. The way they seal is exactly how the name infers as they crush as they are torqued down and form a perfect seal in the perfect shape that is made of metal and will never leak until the bolt is loosened or removed. With a crush washer you have no rubber to rot but once it's been been crushed before it may not be able to seal perfectly again. They don't cost very much at all but the parts stores will usually try to sell you the whole bolt which is totally unnecessary and extra expense. I would guess they both they sell you is likely worse than the one that's factory but either way you can order crush washers for cents each and replace them every time and preventing even one oil leak will save you more than the washers cost for the life of the whole car.
@@MattStephensRichhowever, recommending to tighten that as hard as you can is a huge, HUGE, negative and a very expensive repair to be done later and depending on the vehicle no telling how much work is involved in replacing that whole pan if it's replaceable. I hope there's no cars evolved into non-replaceable pans but nothing hardly surprises me these days.
That 60K miles is when you drive it with much care at all times, or near perfect driving. Don't follow that when you're in a mixed driving mode. Instead, do it every 30K miles.
My 2017 is the same way, no real stick in there. Just a cap and the first time it will be difficult to get it out so make sure that when it finally comes loose your hand does not jerk across something sharp anywhere in there. Also that tab is a little bit confusing too. The real reason I am watching this is that I plan to clean the pan and filter. Do these commonly leak once the pan is off and back on? I am assuming you want am OEM gasket from the dealer and don't reuse the old one. Is this something most people can do with no trouble? my biggest fear is leaks. I know I should keep a magnetic tray handy for the bolts and make sure my gaskets holes match the number of bolts. Of course once that is finally over, clean it good so I can see any leaks and then put the fluid in and check the level using the overflow at the correct temperature. I know don't do it without 4 quarts of fluid ready to go in. I know a transmission shop where I can take the old fluid and the owner uses it in a waste oil burner.
Working on that video now actually! It’s relatively easy to do the pan drop and filter swap - there is the OEM gasket or aftermarket options you can use.
No nissan does not want us doing our own labor work when i was young i did most all my own work oil changes and tune ups spark plugs points and all my how things have changed 😮
i got a dip stick for my 2018 rouge ,,just had this done at the dealer it has 30,000 miles on it...nissan gave us a 7 year warranty ,,an if i did it,,well you know what they would say
How many miles did your rogue have on it when you did your first fluid change? I bought a 2019 rogue SL used , with 30k and found out it had been a hertz rental out of Florida and had had hail damage repair,after I had paid cash for it and saw my title 😮.just ordered my dipstick, thanks for link👍
This fluid swap wasn’t done until 70,000. 30,000 would definitely be playing it safe - I would honestly even take it to 40k or 50k confidently (recognizing many regular transmissions have 60k intervals)
I’ve 2017 with 84k miles (135k km). I’m not sure if previous owner changed it or not. Is it recommended to change at this level? I heard a lot that after certain miles if we try to change the fluid for first time, it can cause serious problems. I really appreciate your effort for this video. Thanks a lot.
you’d get much more problems letting it chill than just changing. trans is one of those things that once they break you can’t just save up and drive less it’s in ICU till you fix
Everyone thinks jatco is terrible and they aren’t the best by any means but if you don’t tell people it needs to be changed ….. they say to check yet dealership service never checks
Thank you for the vid. I had a neighborly mechanic change out my CVT NS3 Fluid 2015 Rogue. A month later my transfer case went bad. I do wonder if it had something to do with the transmission change at 89K. It was just a drain and fill performed.
I literally have been trying to get this dam thing off for an hour. Absolutely ridiculous I can see the clip moving back as I insert the screwdriver.But this dam thing will not come off.
They do that for a reason so you can't check it so you would have to go to the dealers to buy a dipstick and then they want to service it for you they preferably want you to continuously go to them or don't bother checking it and wait till it fails so they can replace it. Trust me I know the dealerships games
This was a 70,000 mile interval - TBH, fluid will darken quickly, as it's objective is to pick up and suspend debris/particulate so it doesn't grind against components. :)
This are the actual oil replaclement instructions (this are from a nissan xtrail QR25 engine shop manual): Replacement INFOID:0000000010622867 CAUTION: • Always use shop paper. Never use shop cloth. • Replace a drain plug gasket with new ones at the final stage of the operation when installing. • Use caution when looking into the drain hole as there is a risk of dripping fluid entering the eye. • After replacement, always perform CVT fluid leakage check. 1. Select “Data Monitor” in “TRANSMISSION” using CONSULT. 2. Select “FLUID TEMP” and confirm that the CVT fluid temperature is 40°C (104°F) or less. 3. Check that the selector lever is in the “P” position, then completely engage the parking brake. 4. Lift up the vehicle. 5. Remove the drain plug and drain the CVT fluid from the oil pan. Refer to TM-681, "Exploded View". 6. Install the drain plug to oil pan. CAUTION: Drain plug gasket use the old one. 7. Remove the overflow plug from converter housing. SMA146B Recommended fluid and fluid capacity : Refer to MA-23, "Fluids and Lubricants". : Vehicle front JSDIA3714ZZ TM-664 < PERIODIC MAINTENANCE > [CVT: RE0F10G] CVT FLUID 8. Install the charging pipe set (KV311039S0) (A) into the overflow plug hole. CAUTION: Tighten the charging pipe by hand. 9. Install the ATF changer hose (B) to the charging pipe. CAUTION: Press the ATF changer hose all the way onto the charging pipe until it stops. 10. Fill approximately 3 liter (2-5/8 lmp qt) of the CVT fluid. 11. Remove the ATF changer hose and charging pipe, then install the overflow plug. NOTE: Perform this work quickly because CVT fluid leaks. 12. Lift down the vehicle. 13. Start the engine. 14. While depressing the brake pedal, shift the selector lever to the entire position from “P” to “D”, and shift it to the “P” position. NOTE: Hold the lever at each position for 5 seconds. 15. Check that the CONSULT “Data Monitor” in “FLUID TEMP” is 35°C (95°F) to 45°C (113°F). 16. Stop the engine. 17. Lift up the vehicle. 18. Remove the drain plug, and then drain CVT fluid from oil pan. 19. Repeat steps 6 to 18 (one time). 20. Tighten the drain plug to the specified torque. Refer to TM-681, "Exploded View". 21. Remove the overflow plug. 22. Install the charging pipe set (KV311039S0) into the overflow plug hole. CAUTION: Tighten the charging pipe by hand. 23. Install the ATF changer hose to the charging pipe. CAUTION: Press the ATF changer hose all the way onto the charging pipe until it stops. 24. Fill approximately 3 liter (2-5/8 lmp qt) of the CVT fluid. 25. Remove the ATF changer hose and charging pipe, then install the overflow plug. NOTE: Perform this work quickly because CVT fluid leaks. 26. Lift down the vehicle. 27. Start the engine. 28. While depressing the brake pedal, shift the selector lever to the entire position from “P” to “D”, and shift it to the “P” position. NOTE: Hold the lever at each position for 5 seconds. 29. Check that the CONSULT “Data Monitor” in “FLUID TEMP” is 35°C (95°F) to 45°C (113°F). 30. Lift up the vehicle. 31. Remove the overflow plug and confirm that the CVT fluid is drained from the overflow plug hole. CAUTION: Perform this work with the vehicle idling. NOTE: If the CVT fluid is not drained, refer to “Adjustment” and refill with the CVT fluid. 32. When the flow of CVT fluid slows to a drip, tighten the overflow plug to the specified torque. Refer to TM681, "Exploded View". CAUTION: Never reuse O-ring. 33. Lift down the vehicle. JSDIA3713ZZ CVT FLUID TM-665 < PERIODIC MAINTENANCE > [CVT: RE0F10G] 34. Select “Data Monitor” in “TRANSMISSION” using CONSULT. 35. Select “CONFORM CVTF DETERIORTN”. 36. Select “Erase”. 37. Perform air bleeding of electric oil pump. Refer to TM-552, "Work Procedure". 38. Stop the engine.
Thanks for your video. Question: did your dipstick show in the HOT area after you drove the car? The video didn't show your reading clearly when it was hot. Here's the detailed background for my question. Hopefully somebody will see this and have an explanation. Thanks. I have a 2015 Rogue 2wd, purchased new, Jan 2016; has just over 80K miles. Changed CVT fluid at 60K mi as suggested in owner's manual. Received letter from Nissan re class action issue with CVT's failing. Nissan extended CVT warranty to 80K mi or 7 years. I am now just over both. My son experienced an inability to accelerate after about 90 minutes of freeway driving at around 75 mph and temp was at or above 100F (6-30-23 was 108F in Sacramento). Engine was not overheating and no check engine. Pulled off, stopped, shut off several minutes, then started; car was normal the rest of the trip. Read a nissan bulletin describing this with certain model CVT's when driving sustained at around that speed and temp above 98F. Decided to change and level fluid to hedge my bets against the CVT overheating and possible computer limiting as described in bulletin. Here's the weird thing. First, unlike your and several other Rogue CVT fluid change videos on RUclips, I got 5 qts fluid, just by removing the cvt drain plug; nothing fancy. Parked on level garage floor, no jacking. I I had briefly started the car to move into garage; maybe ran 1 minute, max. Second, my car (purchased new) came with a dipstick. I added 4 quarts new fluid and it didn't register on dipstick. Added another 1/2 or so and started to register. Ran car, shifted through gears multiple times, heated engine and still barely registered so gradually added another 1/2 qt (up to 5 at this point). Drove car 15 minutes, including high speed and shifted normally. Here's issue 3; even though the engine temp was normal (dial in the middle as usual), the dipstick just showed fluid up to near the high mark on the cold section. It didn't go up the the HOT section, not even close. I added maybe another 1/2 qt (now up to 5.5 qts added) and waited with engine running, level, at temp and still reading in the lower mark. At this point wasn't going to push and risk overfill as I was a bit over what I'd removed.
Was checking hot. If helpful, there’s a bleeder valve underneath you can also use for checking fluid level; it essentially drains off excess fluid until it is at the correct spot!
This was a 70,000 mile interval - TBH, fluid will darken quickly, as it's objective is to pick up and suspend debris/particulate so it doesn't grind against components. :)
@@MattStephensRich Well thanks for the reply - with the mileage. I guess if this was the first change, it's not too unusual for it to be that dark. I mean, it's not black or burnt....just - ready for a change. And what you said about pick up and suspend particles....never heard that before about trans fluid. Engine oil DOES do that, but this is hydraulic fluid. This stuff oxidizes and essentially burns (thus the burnt smell when real old). But not to worry....I asked a simple question and you gave me the answer - Thank you!
I mean in essence, hydraulic fluid and motor oil are more similar than not - they lubricate, provide cooling (that is, ability to move heat from specific spots and move to the cooler), hydraulic pressure (VVT in the engine, hydraulic solenoids in the transmission), and bring performance enhancers for smooth operation. Hydraulic fluid indeed also suspends particles, albeit it deals with friction grinding of transmission gears (or CVT belt in this case) that creates far more constant/predictable metal debris than combustion in the engine. This is partly why it's always best practice to clean the catch magnet when dropping the transmission oil pan, which captures those metal flakes off of the oil. :)
Operating temp for hot would be once the fans come on. Listen for the fans, then check. Do the Nissans have a over fill bolt? Aka weep bolt, fluid check bolt, etc.
Yes there is a weep bolt, *however* have found a lot of mismatched recommendation for using it. Ultimately going the simple measure-and-fill felt apt, especially for folks who aren’t able to be under the car while running.
@@thebeetalls Ultimately wanted to discuss the dipstick approach as well, as there remains a quite-large crowd out there who are more familiar with that approach. Also saw an opportunity to provide better coverage on the approach, as RUclips videos discussing dipstick were slim to none.
Great Video! Did you ever finish part 2 with changing the internal and external filters? I have a 2018 Nissan Rogue SV that I'm gonna be changing fluid soon, 85,000 miles and not sure when done last, bought used. Do I need to change both filters or maybe mine only has internal filter? Thank you!
Unfortunately still under works! It has proven a harder one to research and get clear direction on. Your CVT has two filters: a strainer filter in the pan and a particulate filter just near the mating surface with the engine. TBH, you can just swap the fluid if you need to do the work now. If you’re up for a bit more work, dropping the pan and swapping the strainer filter is relatively straight forward. The secondary filter still proves he’s to get to, and working up a good approach to recommend folks for doing so - there are a number of other videos out there though that offer some walk through!
I don't own a Nissan, but I own a 10th gen Honda. Every CVT should be drained and filled every 30k atleast. Or if you're like me I do it 3x a year. I use eneos since it's on the shelf, and it's good stuff. Amsoil is great too, but expensive and nobody in my area has it. Honda wants $86 for 4 qrts 😆 yeah um...no thanks. Eneos is perfect for most Japanese cars.
Nope not at all. On further digging, there’s also a high likelihood Eneos fulfills the Nissan fluid order. In general, all OEMs “insist” on their fluid, but I’ve never found issue with using any fluid that’s certified as in-spec.
This basic video is elementary. To do it properly, use the transmission out and in fluid cooling lines to change oil out entirely. Look at the fluid out until you see the clear new oil come out. then put it all back together and check oil level by using the oil level plug on the side of the tranny. Now, and only now, you have changed out the transmission fluid.
It seems nissan does not want people doing there own service all newer nissans to change engine oil you must remove 18 plastic clips and 2 bolts to remove splash guard to get to oil pan and filter😢
Does not changing your engine oil have anything thing to do with having problems with your transmission trying to find a answer to this question thank you
Suuuuuper hard to get to unfortunately, and have been trying to figure out a helpful, reasonable way to get to it without a genuine professional grade approach.
That is the bleed valve under the transmission, which you can also use for leveling fluid. I opted to do the dipstick route as it’s a lot more comfortable for a wider variety of people and an easier way to measure levels without needed to get under the car. 😊
I have a 2018 rogue with 130k miles on it, never changed the transmission fluid, is it too late to do so? Also how much did everything cost you in total?
15k miles may be a bit overkill and could be dialed back to 20k-30k. I have been able to find language on filter changes recommended for every 30k (working on a follow-up video with filter changes included), so fluid change could be indexed with that. But hey, these CVTs are notoriously culprit for failure, so airing on the safe side is perfectly rational as well.
I’m sorry if I missed it but how many miles were on this vehicle? I have a 2019 With 27,000 miles. I plan on getting this done at my 30,000 mile oil change. I purchased it about a year ago with 15,000 miles, I feel like there has been a whine at like 3,000 RPM since the day I bought it.
This car was at 80,000 when I did the service (bought it as a former fleet car). Likewise there was some whining, which did go away with the fluid swap.
CHANGE TRANSMISSION FILTER/FILTERS AT 60 000 MILES IS LESS THAN IDEAL BUT NOT AS CRUCIAL AS THE FLUID CHANGE EVERY 20 000 MILES WITH FULL SYNTHETIC OIL DUE TO BEARING FAILURES BEING QUITE PREVALENT AMONGST NISSANS CVT DUE TO EXCESSIVE HEAT BUILDUP COUPLED WITHA LESS THAN IDEAL FLUID CAPACITY IN ORDER TO DISSIPATE AND COOL COMPONENTS WITHIN THE MECHANICAL PORTION OF THE CVT.
@MattStephensRich most of good cvt oils are NS2 and NS3 compatible. The international standard for NS3 oil clearly say that is not compatible and contains different additives. You mentioned that is backwards compatible, which is wrong. This is what I am saying here. You cannot use NS3 oil in a NS2 cvt gearbox
That’s correct! There is a cap cover (with no dipstick) and a bleeder valve down below you can use for checking level while running. Annoying on all counts!
![Tee Grizzley - Robbery 8 [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/34_vkNV6wrU/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent video! So we have a 2017 Nissan Rogue and we have changed the CVT fluid on it every 25000 miles with the top of the line Amsoil CVT full synthetic fluid. It's also equally as important as to change the external transmission filter, something a lot of people overlook.
That is the *second* video, currently in the works. 😜 doing both the pan drop and bottom filter, and side-mount filter.
@@MattStephensRich Awesome because my research shows that the pan filter inside the transmission Pan is only up to 2016. 2017 and up there's only one external filter so I would be curious what you find on the 2019. 👍
This has definitely been one of the hardest auto videos I’ve had to research for lol just a lot of variation without a lot of documentation. I do expect two filters as this is a Jatco8; will be checking things out this weekend, and keep you posted!
@@MattStephensRich yes pan filter and exterior filter, it's behind the driver wheel. I will probably do both this spring, I changed the transmission fluid but it was so dirty I'm doing it again 3.5Q dropping the pan, will really appreciate your video if you do this👍Using Nissan NS3 , they raped me @.$27 a Quart.Will get a few more @$20 online.Next time I'm going to buy Amsoil fluid.
@@jonmo2694 Mid-shoot on the current video! Transmission pan and bottom filter are in; still needing to tackle the smaller, particulate filter. Still recovering from rolling around on the ground a bunch chasing the screws. :P
in this video when he sows the drain bolt there is another bolt just to the left and that is the over flow bolt . you start the car and put it in neutral and then remove the over flow bolt and let it drain till it is at a slow drip them instill the drain bolt and tighten . and then your good to go
I believe it's the bolt on the case that is on about a 45 degree angle.
When the plug is removed, the fluid overflow will have a BURP and then a steady flow untill it slows and stops. Reinstall the plug. That is the most accurate procedure.
I don't have that drain, just a dipstick. Nissan Rogue 2015 Select. I overfilled thinking i'd be able to open that and the excess fluid would drain out. Then i went to look for that bolt and it wasn't there at all. I had to get really dirty and remove the transmission bolt again and lose some fluid but i had no choice.
Accurate advice 👌
Shouldn’t it be don’t open bolt while running?
Instead open bolt while off and oil cold in case of overfill.
Then warm up oil to temp, turn off vehicle, open bolt 1 more time to ensure proper level.
Contrary to another commenter, I actually appreciate the talking as I’ve never changed transmission fluid on a Nissan Rogue.
Glad it helped!
Loved this video this will be my first time doing my change as a single mom I know how to do the oil change and now I know how to do the transmission thanks to you ❤
You got this!
Same! Single mom learning too lol
Thanks so much, did this for my 2015 select. You weren’t kidding, that plastic cap was impossible to take off.
Hi Matt,
I wanted to thank you again for your excellent video! Let me explain below how you helped me:
-I have a 2017 Rogue Hybrid with 80K miles. A few months ago, it started jerking and shuddering, especially when moving at a slow speed while in bumper-to-bumper traffic, or accelerating after a full stop. I brought it into the Nissan dealer, who diagnosed that the CVT transmission was shot and I needed to replace the entire unit @ $11K total cost. The car is only worth $14K, so this caused serious heartburn on what to do next. 😒
-After doing further research, I found out that this is a common problem with Nissan CVT's, so much so that Nissan has extended the warranty on the CVT to 84 months/80K miles on most models (unfortunately, for some reason it did not apply to my Hybrid😒). They even have developed a term for the symptom of this problem - they call it "juddering."
-During my research, I read that someone had solved this problem simply by changing the CVT fluid.
-I found and watched your video, and decided to take a gamble and invest $100-$200 to see if I could avoid spending $11K. I went to the Nissan dealer and bought a supply of CVT NS-3 fluid (@$28/quart = liquid gold!).
-I performed the drain procedure exactly as you outlined. I ended up draining and replacing 3.5 qts. of fluid. Great news - after the first drain procedure, the juddering problem went away! But for good measure, I performed the procedure again, consuming a total of 7 qts of new fluid @ total cost of $200. I have been driving the car around for a week now, and (knock on wood) this seems to have completely cured the problem! 👍😊
-Here are a few of my observations that I experienced that hopefully will be of help to future viewers:
1. I was able to access the drain plug without having to jack up the front of the car. In your video, I believe you mentioned you jacked up the car only to allow for a better view.
2. Getting the bottom shroud cover off proved to be very time-consuming. When I re-install it, I will cut a new hole so I can easily access the transmission oil drain plug in the future.
2. Getting that troublesome little plug off of the top of the fill tube proved to be a major pain. But your video did a great job of explaining it, and I had to go back to it several times before I got the hang of it. I was erroneously trying to put the screwdriver tip on the fill tube side of the metal tab and pushing all the way down as far as it would go before starting to pry. It took me a little while to realize that I only need to push the screwdriver tip down the metal tab until it engages the small black plastic tab on the plug, and then start prying. Once I had this epiphany, I was able to remove it easily!
Great work! Glad the video was of help.
Thanks. Probably would never have gotten that thing out without your video
Glad it was of help!
The overflow bolt is easier to use than a dipstick. You take the bolt out and let the extra oil drain out. If nothing comes out, you didn't put enough in. It's very simple and means if you accidentally pour in an extra half a quart, it just comes out of the bolt hole easy peazy. If you pour too much in an old-school transmission you have to futz with sucking the extra out of the dipstick tube or wasting a drain plug gasket and likely making a mess trying to drain out of the bottom.
I like the overflow bolt. 🤷
At least Nissan left the dipstick tube in place to make filling easier, unlike Hyundai/Kia and so many others which just have a tiny bolt that makes a mess or requires special tools to fill.
Why not have both? Dipstick still doesn’t have to jackup a car and is tool-less to use.
How do I find the overflow in Nissan rogue 2017?
@@naborhernandez4619same question. I also have a 2017. Any luck locating this illusive bolt?
I started using the new Castrol TransMax for both CVT and regular transmissions. It has real high ratings and certified to replace Nissan NS2 and 3. It's also only $24 per gallon on Amazon so it lowers my maintenance costs significantly. I've learned if you change the CVT fluid every 25K that will greatly increase the life of these transmissions that have gotten a bad rap in recent years. My 2014 NV200 is out of warranty for those that will remind me it will void my warranty. Van runs great. BTW you can insert the stick backwards to measure the fluid without locking the cap when you're testing your fill levels. I bought this cargo van used as a weekend project van build. It only had 40K miles on it, so it sat in the garage a lot. I went ahead and did 3 drains as I read somewhere it takes three to get most of the old fluid out. So total cost was less than $75. Compare that to NS3 fluid or taking it to the stealership.
Good tip!
Part of their bad rap is from insufficient cooling. Also depending on your year you may even have a sticking valve in its oil pump. That is probably the most deadly thing to these other than an overfill or use of ATF.
The same dipstick tube fill port can be utilized to add transmission fluid in order to reach the desired maximum level. Pro tip: Use a full synthetic CVT/ATF EQUIVALENT TO THE NISSAN CONVENTIONAL TRANSMISSION FLUID FOR SUPERIOR, LONG, LASTING PROTECTION. ALSO IT IS BEST TO DRAIN AND FILL THE TRANSMISSION FLUID EVERY 20,000 MILES OR 32,000 KM IN CANADIAN MILES. These 2 recommendations will ensure a longer lasting transmission and greatly reduce the failure rate, then, if otherwise, following Nissans recommendation, which has their best interest at hand, and not yours. Always remember manufacturers sell cars and want to sell you a new one because that is their business and the entire premise of a company that manufactures vehicles. When something says lifetime fluid, it is often misinterpreted and understandably so. Lifetime fluid simply refers to what the manufacturer considers to be the lifetime of that particular component such as a transmission or cooling system or engine. so if the warranty is 60,000 miles on any given component? This is what's considered lifetime of that component and once out of the warranty period They are free and clear in hopes of you needing a major repair that could outweigh repairing it when compared to the purchase of a new vehicle. Dealerships, don't make a lot of money on the sale of a vehicle. Where the real money is made is the after purchase sales of an extended warranty, paint, protection, piece of mind protection, powertrain protection, over and above the standard manufacture warranty. These tactics are often expressed in such a manner that often instill fear of the unknown rather than a wait and see approach approach? Not to mention many of the servicing intervals have been greatly extended in order to entice customers to buy their vehicles, because you can save so much of your precious time by not servicing the vehicle as often. Unfortunately this has become common practice with all of the vehicle manufactures in order to remain at par to not lose their portion of newly purchased vehicle market share. Always remember they sell vehicles and they want you to come back as soon as possible to buy another one! if they lasted forever, there wouldn't be many car companies needed. A dealership would much rather replace your transmission simply knowing that they have put in a brand new component rather than repair a transmission and have to warranty an already failing poorly designed transmission, strut tower, control alarm, alternator or catalytic converter etc. It's always in a dealership best interest to replace a component to minimize a return repair, cutting into their bottom line.
Good tip, and gratefully full synthetic is the only choice.
Video was great but the three and fourths quarter made me laugh. Three quarter inch socket. Thanks for the info ✅
Glad it was helpful!
I was waiting for the 5 and sixteens..
I believe even with the CVT (vs. traditional ATs), its fluid should be checked while the engine is at idle with fluid temperature is between 170F to 180F.
On Nissan rogue your not suppose to have engine on while you stick in a dipstick to measure I think that's why this vehicle doesn't come with one it could damage internal parts.
I was drafting a comment about not driving with the dipstick when you mentioned that in the video! Thank you for all the research and runarounds this video took 😅
FWIW, I have actually driven a bit with the dipstick in which gratefully caused no harm. Still opt to have it out though and use the stock cover 😊
@@MattStephensRich I installed the dipstick right after we got our used 2015 Rogue with 30,000 miles on it. 5 years later and it now has 98,000 miles and the dipstick has caused no problems that I'm aware. I had not heard that you were not supposed to drive with it in. What problem has been reported that this can cause? Thanks!
@@carlkeefjr1303 I picked up a dipstick from ebay to use on my 2020 Rouge SV. Already knew of this from my 2017 Altima. Did a warm up after fighting and finally getting the plug out and checked with the dipstick and it was right at the top v notch of the hatch mark area, drained and poured into a clear jug to get an idea of amount needed. 3.8 qts for mine. I just hang the dipstick up on the wall till needed again and turn the plug cap lock tab section to the opposite side and slide it back on. The O-ring fits snug and it isn't gonna fall out. I see no reason why the dipstick couldn't just stay in. My Rouge only had 8069 miles on it when i bought it last Dec.2023. Has 10855 this last weekend when i did the drain and fill with TriaX CVT fluid. Will do again at 15K and 20K so i know i have new fluid. Then go to 30k mile interval.
I managed to do it myself, Rouge 2015 S. 200k km never changed before. Report for the records;
- The cap for the oil reservoir is hell to take out, I cut it off with oscillating machine!!! you think it is rough start!!
- I don't have the dip stick, so i used a long zip tie ~25'', and i took the mark of the original oil. I fed the zip tie too much at the beginning, it caught into something inside!! with some patience and force i released it, I panicked for 2 minutes, hopefully it didn't damaged something inside.
- Removed 12 clips for the black fabric
- I left the drain plug attached as i found it rusty, and i don't have crush washer. so i preferred to leave it sealed as is.
- I unscrewed 19 screws. Some of them were very rusty. Took the pan down with some splashes.
- Changed the screen filter.
- Removed the gasket, it was very attached to the metal. it left some unremovable parts on the metal. I tried to scrap it but didn't want to create solid powder inside.
- Failed to unscrew the cooling filter cover. 2 screws are very hard to reach or to access. Even i have accessories for the socket wrench. It needs very low profile 10mm socket. So i decide to skip this filter.
- cleaned the pan, put new gasket.
- screwed back 19 screws
- Added the oil, it took 4 liters. You need a long thin funnel.
- It took around 5 hours (it could take 3 without my shenanigans)
Great work! Likewise still trying to work out helpful guidance on the secondary cooling filter - it is reallllly wedged in there.
Great video -
FYI on page 9-6 of the manual you shared, both of those paragraphs refer to if the vehicle is used for towing, using a camper or car top carrier, or driving on rough muddy roads. Otherwise, Nissan suggest not replacing the CVT fluid. The 60k miles you referred to is still bullet pointed under the towing section, and is referencing the the deterioration data that comes back from sending in a sample to a lab.
With that said - your future self will thank you for changing the CVT fluid every 50-60 k miles regardliess.
Exactly right - if anything, “just change it, sometime” would be really helpful for them to include lol
Thank you matt iam going to try this on my 2019 rogue very well explained😊
Glad it was helpful! There is indeed an external filter that is a total pain to get to. TBH, I’d recommend focusing first on the fluid swap, and you can go after filters if you so choose.
Very important that the vehicle is level and fluid at operating temp for an accurate check of the fluid level. Fluid expands with temp. Cold will not give you an accurate level as so many are saying here.
Good point!
I never knew fluid could contract at a hotter temperature.... Maybe the transmission was just overfilled, or the markings on the aftermarket dipstick were incorrect. Maybe the hashmarks showed the expanded "HOT" reading, and maybe the notches on the side were the cold reading.
Great great step by step video.
Glad it helped!
I just spoke to dealership on how they “check” the CVT fluid. He said they don’t. Their process is they drain the fluid and add 7 and 3/4 quarter exactly.
Yeah makes sense with no dipstick/overflow valve being a process
This doesn't make sense to me, if only 3.75 quarts are coming out...
Torque converter
@@tedpirsig154 i think its because you didnt take out the overflow plug, i'm not sure of the rogue has it, but my nissan has it. its beneath the drain plug, reach it with an allen key.
I learned a new word today. Persnikitty! 🤓
Persnickety*
Thank you for an amazing video and great information!!! I am also adding an external oil cooler to my 2017 rogue.
Glad to be of helped!
Quick question, how’d adding the transmission cooler go? Did you do it yourself?
OUTSTANDING !!! Thank you.
You're very welcome!
If you go look at those owners manual pages again, it's actually not contradicting. The first page you showed specifically states they're instructions for if you are towing or driving on dirty/muddy roads. The table that says inspect would be for regular driving conditions.
Now obviously the manual isn't giving good information, telling the owner that they only should inspect, but it is consistent.
Did our 2019 Rogue at 33,000 miles today. Took just a bit over 3.5 qts. Silly not to change at least every 50-60k.
hope the video helped!
What I think is silly are those people who expect to get 100,000 miles out of the original fluid. they don't realize that modern transmissions need a lot of maintenance that most people neglect to have done. Then they wonder why they have so many problems. I used to own a Volkswagen and one mistake they made is telling people that it is a lifetime fluid and never needs changed. Then the gullible people who believed that wondered why it failed so soon!! VW recommends 60,000 miles now but really it should be more like 25,000 - 30,000. Look at their DSG they are at least smart enough to make it mandatory 40,000 miles between changes. It is not really mandatory but if you try to make that fluid last forever you will be sorry you didn't listen!!
Someone said there is allso a external filter some where by the oil pan that must be changed not the one inside the pan😮
Thanks for letting me know that there is any transmission stick
No problem 👍
i saw a video where u have to change the fluid specifically at 104 degrees f.
The fluid will ultimately flow out regardless of temp!
Just had the ATF flushed on my 2015 at a local transmission shop. Paid over $300 but had to bite the bullet as I didn't know if the previous owner did it recently and as this video states, you can't even look at the damn fluid ! I've heard with these CVT transmissions you better flush ( not just drain and fill) every 25-30k or so
Better safe than sorry!
I've heard drain and fill only😂
Great video, we look forward to the next one with filter changes. In how much time. thanks a lot.
Still underway lol dropping the bottom pan for the strainer filter is straight forward, but the side filter is still proving difficult to get to
Just did mine at 65k miles and it was dark black both cooler filter and pan filters were black so it’s good to changed those
Good to hear!
Drain the fluid and see how many quarts your drain out. No dip stick need . Unless you have a leak
Ultimately wanted to show both approaches
All I had to do to get the top off (fake dipstick) was squeeze it with my hand. No tool needed!
You’re more skilled than I 😅
Thank you!
You bet!
1)use metric tools on a metric car. 2) Dealership service advisor said: CVT has no filter, cannot be flushed since has valves which cannot be evacuated dry. just drain, measure, refill exact same amount every 30k. No need to repeat for 30k. Owner's manual needs clarification. If you catch every drop & measure, no dipstick needed
1. Do notice I have 19mm in the video description; you’ll also find ¾ inch socket is 19.05mm equivalence, and still makes for a great fit.
2. There’s actually two filters on this Jatco8, one strainer filter below and a finer particulate filter in the middle of the housing. Drain and replace of fluid is the biggest priority, but filters can be swapped and it is honestly advise will give him the massive class action lawsuits in recall over these CVTs having failure. (Working on a follow up video showing this)
3. Dipsticks are we still really helpful. There is a bleeder valve below you can also use for checking fluid level, but wanted to show a dipstick solution as that’s often most familiar for the masses.
Interesting-Nissan service advisor told me that NONE of their CVTs have ever had a filter
You can find it in the Nissan parts catalogue, or even search "Nissan CVT filter" on RUclips for good coverage. Speedkar recently tore apart a Jatco 7 (previous gen), which shows a good sightline on both filters :) :ruclips.net/video/Rhx-Hpn1Q90/видео.html
I heard nothing after persnickety😂
Dude Walmart has a Red transmission fluid funnel that is taller & the spout fits into the dip stick tube , only 2 dollars
I took my Frontier in for warranty work yesterday. I was curious what the CVT service would cost Nissan told me $400 for the service.
Woof!
Hi, great video! I now have the confidence to try it on my own.
Quick question: At the beginning of the video, you mentioned that you have to perform this procedure more than once because you cannot drain out all of the transmission fluid. So you are basically replacing the majority of the fluid through multiple oil changes and dilution. How many times do you need to repeat this procedure to for all intents and purposes replace all of the old fluid? Thanks!
You’d need to do it three or four times to theoretically drain everything. TBH, you are ok to not sweat it. 😊
@@MattStephensRich Got it - thanks for your quick reply. I will try it tomorrow.
Extreme duty calls for changing fluid at 60K
you could have done the complete operation in 1 vid; including the filter swap.
Broke it into two for those looking to just do fluid change 😊
Excellent video Matt, thank you for this. I've done one CVT fluid d&f on daughter's 17 2.5L Rogue but this vid would have really helped me. I watched lots of vids on how to get cap off, still broke plastic clip. 😆 After finished held it on with a twist tie until bought new cap, worked fine. I used Valvoline Full Synthetic dedicated CVT fluid. Not newer CVT/w trans fluid, won't use that. Seems to be doing fine. I know Eneos good stuff. Didn't realize crush washer CVT drain plug same as oil drain plug. Wish I had known which dipstick was correct one, just put back amount out. Few questions for you. After putting CVT through gears, you checked the level with the engine off, correct? What was CVT level after warm up to operating temp? Within crosshatch area, or slightly above? How much fluid did you actually refill? After watching this, I will be doing another, this time w/ linked dipstick. Thanks again. I can tell you, there is a longer neck funnel that works better than the shorty you used. It's made by Hopkins/FloTool. Looks like AZ carries it.
Glad the video was helpful! For your questions:
1. Yes I was checking the fluid level. You *could* check while jacked up, just be sure to note the fluid level beforehand to be sure it’s a match.
2. It’s recommended to check the fluid level warm for transmissions. You also can check cold, just be sure (again) to note the fluid level before hand (while also cold) and compare to that.
3. Yes, we want to be within the crosshatch target level.
4. 3.75 quarts seems to be the consistent yield for draining through the bolt. I have a Follow-Up video where we are dropping the pan, which gets a bit more.
@@MattStephensRich Thanks for the reply Matt. I was able to drain the fluid on the level ground. I think I loosened the drain plug while on ramps, just enough to break free but not drip, then did a vehicle level drain.
For answer 2.), did you mean to say recommended check level when "warm", (in cross hatch), because you went on to say you "can also do cold just check level prior." Because I've done it once with no dipstick, I don't really have a confident reference like you did so I'll be using your diy as guide for the next d&f. Dipstick arrived from Amazon yesterday. Hope my follow up question not too much of pain. I subscribed and will be sure to watch follow up vid. Thanks again. 👍
Dipstick will greatly help! And yes, you’re correct to be in the crosshatch while warm (and ideally, it’s always best to check while warm). You’re exactly right on what I was trying to get at for checking cold - essentially, as long as you have an initial reference line, you could check cold.
@@MattStephensRich Got it! 👍
I have also seen the CVT fluid that also says it is an ATF. That scares me a little bit too really. I wonder if that stuff has been ruining CVTs considering how sensitive they are known to be. You really don't want ATF anywhere near these things because if you dump that in there you will have to get the whole thing flushed or kiss your CVT goodbye in 1,000 to 2,000 miles. That may even kill it quicker than that really.
There is some horrible information in this video although I appreciate the effort trying to help people. You should never wrench on a drain pan bolt as hard as you can that is very bad information that can easily lead to strip threads when it's removed next time or right away. And you don't need oil to make a seal on a crush washer the whole purpose, and the reason you have to use a new one every time, is that the metal crushes and forms to make the seal perfectly the same shape as the other metal it's making contact with. The oil might help you get the crush washer off next time but I've never had any trouble with them coming off either way. And don't forget that fluid expands as it is heated so the reason it is showing too full is not because the fluid is cold. After seeing that you should definitely be verifying whether the engine is supposed to be running when it's checked or not though because an engine running while it's checked will suck the fluid level down. You should also know which specific temperature of the fluid should be. With that said there is some good information like the third party dipsticks being available etcetera so it's not all bad but some of that advice could lead people to thousands of dollars worth of repair damage.
I don’t think I oiled the crush washer? We did oil the gasket.
@@MattStephensRich @17:08 the video says to use motor oil or trans fluid or something to make sure the crush washer has a good seal. Crush washers don't need anything to make a good seal. Sometimes you can get by with reusing them two or three times but you're supposed to, and I would, change them every time. The way they seal is exactly how the name infers as they crush as they are torqued down and form a perfect seal in the perfect shape that is made of metal and will never leak until the bolt is loosened or removed. With a crush washer you have no rubber to rot but once it's been been crushed before it may not be able to seal perfectly again. They don't cost very much at all but the parts stores will usually try to sell you the whole bolt which is totally unnecessary and extra expense. I would guess they both they sell you is likely worse than the one that's factory but either way you can order crush washers for cents each and replace them every time and preventing even one oil leak will save you more than the washers cost for the life of the whole car.
@@MattStephensRichhowever, recommending to tighten that as hard as you can is a huge, HUGE, negative and a very expensive repair to be done later and depending on the vehicle no telling how much work is involved in replacing that whole pan if it's replaceable. I hope there's no cars evolved into non-replaceable pans but nothing hardly surprises me these days.
That 60K miles is when you drive it with much care at all times, or near perfect driving. Don't follow that when you're in a mixed driving mode. Instead, do it every 30K miles.
Good point!
My 2017 is the same way, no real stick in there. Just a cap and the first time it will be difficult to get it out so make sure that when it finally comes loose your hand does not jerk across something sharp anywhere in there. Also that tab is a little bit confusing too. The real reason I am watching this is that I plan to clean the pan and filter. Do these commonly leak once the pan is off and back on? I am assuming you want am OEM gasket from the dealer and don't reuse the old one. Is this something most people can do with no trouble? my biggest fear is leaks. I know I should keep a magnetic tray handy for the bolts and make sure my gaskets holes match the number of bolts. Of course once that is finally over, clean it good so I can see any leaks and then put the fluid in and check the level using the overflow at the correct temperature. I know don't do it without 4 quarts of fluid ready to go in. I know a transmission shop where I can take the old fluid and the owner uses it in a waste oil burner.
Working on that video now actually! It’s relatively easy to do the pan drop and filter swap - there is the OEM gasket or aftermarket options you can use.
No nissan does not want us doing our own labor work when i was young i did most all my own work oil changes and tune ups spark plugs points and all my how things have changed 😮
i got a dip stick for my 2018 rouge ,,just had this done at the dealer it has 30,000 miles on it...nissan gave us a 7 year warranty ,,an if i did it,,well you know what they would say
oh an i leave my dip stick in...no problems if the oil was so bad it would up the trans,,,
Good video
Thanks!
How many miles did your rogue have on it when you did your first fluid change? I bought a 2019 rogue SL used , with 30k and found out it had been a hertz rental out of Florida and had had hail damage repair,after I had paid cash for it and saw my title 😮.just ordered my dipstick, thanks for link👍
This fluid swap wasn’t done until 70,000. 30,000 would definitely be playing it safe - I would honestly even take it to 40k or 50k confidently (recognizing many regular transmissions have 60k intervals)
@@MattStephensRich I'm seeing dealer websites saying 20,000 mile intervals, which seems excessive.
Torque spec for transmission drain bolt = 25 lb-ft
Correct!
I’ve 2017 with 84k miles (135k km). I’m not sure if previous owner changed it or not. Is it recommended to change at this level? I heard a lot that after certain miles if we try to change the fluid for first time, it can cause serious problems. I really appreciate your effort for this video. Thanks a lot.
Still worth doing the swap, as CVT ultimately has tighter tolerance than a traditional transmission!
you’d get much more problems letting it chill than just changing. trans is one of those things that once they break you can’t just save up and drive less it’s in ICU till you fix
Everyone thinks jatco is terrible and they aren’t the best by any means but if you don’t tell people it needs to be changed ….. they say to check yet dealership service never checks
Absolutely love a CVT over regular transmission, but agree on this “set it and forget it” ethos
Thank you for the vid. I had a neighborly mechanic change out my CVT NS3 Fluid 2015 Rogue. A month later my transfer case went bad. I do wonder if it had something to do with the transmission change at 89K. It was just a drain and fill performed.
Great to hear!
cvt and transfer case are completely different on this car and are using completely different fluids
@@victorradu9645 oic yep thats right. i found that out & got it fixed. thx
You used CVT NS3, but OEM is for the Nissan Rogue 2016 is it the same thing regardless?
I literally have been trying to get this dam thing off for an hour. Absolutely ridiculous I can see the clip moving back as I insert the screwdriver.But this dam thing will not come off.
Yeah it’s a frustrating process - keep at it; once you get the feel for it it comes right off!
They do that for a reason so you can't check it so you would have to go to the dealers to buy a dipstick and then they want to service it for you they preferably want you to continuously go to them or don't bother checking it and wait till it fails so they can replace it. Trust me I know the dealerships games
The worst.
Ive got a 2019 Nissan Altima, Im assuming the CVT transmissions should be the same? I ordered 5 quarts of CVT fluid so this should be enough right?
The motor should be running when you check the
Great video! May I ask? How many miles on the vehicle (to get the fluid that dark)?
This was a 70,000 mile interval - TBH, fluid will darken quickly, as it's objective is to pick up and suspend debris/particulate so it doesn't grind against components. :)
This are the actual oil replaclement instructions (this are from a nissan xtrail QR25 engine shop manual):
Replacement INFOID:0000000010622867
CAUTION:
• Always use shop paper. Never use shop cloth.
• Replace a drain plug gasket with new ones at the final stage of the operation when installing.
• Use caution when looking into the drain hole as there is a risk of dripping fluid entering the eye.
• After replacement, always perform CVT fluid leakage check.
1. Select “Data Monitor” in “TRANSMISSION” using CONSULT.
2. Select “FLUID TEMP” and confirm that the CVT fluid temperature is 40°C (104°F) or less.
3. Check that the selector lever is in the “P” position, then completely engage the parking brake.
4. Lift up the vehicle.
5. Remove the drain plug and drain the CVT fluid from the oil pan. Refer to TM-681, "Exploded View".
6. Install the drain plug to oil pan.
CAUTION:
Drain plug gasket use the old one.
7. Remove the overflow plug from converter housing.
SMA146B
Recommended fluid and fluid capacity : Refer to MA-23, "Fluids and Lubricants".
: Vehicle front
JSDIA3714ZZ
TM-664
< PERIODIC MAINTENANCE > [CVT: RE0F10G]
CVT FLUID
8. Install the charging pipe set (KV311039S0) (A) into the overflow
plug hole.
CAUTION:
Tighten the charging pipe by hand.
9. Install the ATF changer hose (B) to the charging pipe.
CAUTION:
Press the ATF changer hose all the way onto the charging
pipe until it stops.
10. Fill approximately 3 liter (2-5/8 lmp qt) of the CVT fluid.
11. Remove the ATF changer hose and charging pipe, then install
the overflow plug.
NOTE:
Perform this work quickly because CVT fluid leaks.
12. Lift down the vehicle.
13. Start the engine.
14. While depressing the brake pedal, shift the selector lever to the entire position from “P” to “D”, and shift it
to the “P” position.
NOTE:
Hold the lever at each position for 5 seconds.
15. Check that the CONSULT “Data Monitor” in “FLUID TEMP” is 35°C (95°F) to 45°C (113°F).
16. Stop the engine.
17. Lift up the vehicle.
18. Remove the drain plug, and then drain CVT fluid from oil pan.
19. Repeat steps 6 to 18 (one time).
20. Tighten the drain plug to the specified torque. Refer to TM-681, "Exploded View".
21. Remove the overflow plug.
22. Install the charging pipe set (KV311039S0) into the overflow plug hole.
CAUTION:
Tighten the charging pipe by hand.
23. Install the ATF changer hose to the charging pipe.
CAUTION:
Press the ATF changer hose all the way onto the charging pipe until it stops.
24. Fill approximately 3 liter (2-5/8 lmp qt) of the CVT fluid.
25. Remove the ATF changer hose and charging pipe, then install the overflow plug.
NOTE:
Perform this work quickly because CVT fluid leaks.
26. Lift down the vehicle.
27. Start the engine.
28. While depressing the brake pedal, shift the selector lever to the entire position from “P” to “D”, and shift it
to the “P” position.
NOTE:
Hold the lever at each position for 5 seconds.
29. Check that the CONSULT “Data Monitor” in “FLUID TEMP” is 35°C (95°F) to 45°C (113°F).
30. Lift up the vehicle.
31. Remove the overflow plug and confirm that the CVT fluid is drained from the overflow plug hole.
CAUTION:
Perform this work with the vehicle idling.
NOTE:
If the CVT fluid is not drained, refer to “Adjustment” and refill with the CVT fluid.
32. When the flow of CVT fluid slows to a drip, tighten the overflow plug to the specified torque. Refer to TM681, "Exploded View".
CAUTION:
Never reuse O-ring.
33. Lift down the vehicle.
JSDIA3713ZZ
CVT FLUID
TM-665
< PERIODIC MAINTENANCE > [CVT: RE0F10G]
34. Select “Data Monitor” in “TRANSMISSION” using CONSULT.
35. Select “CONFORM CVTF DETERIORTN”.
36. Select “Erase”.
37. Perform air bleeding of electric oil pump. Refer to TM-552, "Work Procedure".
38. Stop the engine.
Appreciate the insight!
Thanks for your video. Question: did your dipstick show in the HOT area after you drove the car? The video didn't show your reading clearly when it was hot. Here's the detailed background for my question. Hopefully somebody will see this and have an explanation. Thanks.
I have a 2015 Rogue 2wd, purchased new, Jan 2016; has just over 80K miles. Changed CVT fluid at 60K mi as suggested in owner's manual. Received letter from Nissan re class action issue with CVT's failing. Nissan extended CVT warranty to 80K mi or 7 years. I am now just over both. My son experienced an inability to accelerate after about 90 minutes of freeway driving at around 75 mph and temp was at or above 100F (6-30-23 was 108F in Sacramento). Engine was not overheating and no check engine. Pulled off, stopped, shut off several minutes, then started; car was normal the rest of the trip. Read a nissan bulletin describing this with certain model CVT's when driving sustained at around that speed and temp above 98F. Decided to change and level fluid to hedge my bets against the CVT overheating and possible computer limiting as described in bulletin. Here's the weird thing. First, unlike your and several other Rogue CVT fluid change videos on RUclips, I got 5 qts fluid, just by removing the cvt drain plug; nothing fancy. Parked on level garage floor, no jacking. I I had briefly started the car to move into garage; maybe ran 1 minute, max. Second, my car (purchased new) came with a dipstick. I added 4 quarts new fluid and it didn't register on dipstick. Added another 1/2 or so and started to register. Ran car, shifted through gears multiple times, heated engine and still barely registered so gradually added another 1/2 qt (up to 5 at this point). Drove car 15 minutes, including high speed and shifted normally. Here's issue 3; even though the engine temp was normal (dial in the middle as usual), the dipstick just showed fluid up to near the high mark on the cold section. It didn't go up the the HOT section, not even close. I added maybe another 1/2 qt (now up to 5.5 qts added) and waited with engine running, level, at temp and still reading in the lower mark. At this point wasn't going to push and risk overfill as I was a bit over what I'd removed.
Was checking hot.
If helpful, there’s a bleeder valve underneath you can also use for checking fluid level; it essentially drains off excess fluid until it is at the correct spot!
@MattStephensRich where is that over flow bleeder located?
Thanks for the video but the title should read draining the CVT... YOU NEVER SHOWED FILLING
It’s the cover photo 😅 Check out 19:57, that’s where we put fluid back in.
What is the length on the dip stick you use if I want to use a different dip stick to save money
Great video one question, do you have a Rouge sport or a Rouge? The reason I ask is it looks just like a Rouge sport
Just a regular rogue!
The dipstick is locked in and need a sloted screw driver to unlock it.
Yup we cover approach in the video!
All I had to do was squeeze it together with my hand no tool needed
Great video! May I ask...that fluid looked quite dark...how many miles were on that fluid?
This was a 70,000 mile interval - TBH, fluid will darken quickly, as it's objective is to pick up and suspend debris/particulate so it doesn't grind against components. :)
@@MattStephensRich Well thanks for the reply - with the mileage. I guess if this was the first change, it's not too unusual for it to be that dark. I mean, it's not black or burnt....just - ready for a change.
And what you said about pick up and suspend particles....never heard that before about trans fluid. Engine oil DOES do that, but this is hydraulic fluid. This stuff oxidizes and essentially burns (thus the burnt smell when real old). But not to worry....I asked a simple question and you gave me the answer - Thank you!
I mean in essence, hydraulic fluid and motor oil are more similar than not - they lubricate, provide cooling (that is, ability to move heat from specific spots and move to the cooler), hydraulic pressure (VVT in the engine, hydraulic solenoids in the transmission), and bring performance enhancers for smooth operation. Hydraulic fluid indeed also suspends particles, albeit it deals with friction grinding of transmission gears (or CVT belt in this case) that creates far more constant/predictable metal debris than combustion in the engine. This is partly why it's always best practice to clean the catch magnet when dropping the transmission oil pan, which captures those metal flakes off of the oil. :)
I thought feeling a shudder when changing gears in park is a bad sign? Just curious
Not so much a shudder, but the physical shifting of the transmission.
"3 and fourths quarter" 😂
Best measurement
Operating temp for hot would be once the fans come on. Listen for the fans, then check. Do the Nissans have a over fill bolt? Aka weep bolt, fluid check bolt, etc.
Yes there is a weep bolt, *however* have found a lot of mismatched recommendation for using it. Ultimately going the simple measure-and-fill felt apt, especially for folks who aren’t able to be under the car while running.
Yes they have one about 6 inches from the drain bolt. Very easy to find and use if you know what you're looking for.
@@thebeetalls Ultimately wanted to discuss the dipstick approach as well, as there remains a quite-large crowd out there who are more familiar with that approach. Also saw an opportunity to provide better coverage on the approach, as RUclips videos discussing dipstick were slim to none.
You forgot to change the transmission fluid filter.
Coming in a separate video!
Great Video! Did you ever finish part 2 with changing the internal and external filters? I have a 2018 Nissan Rogue SV that I'm gonna be changing fluid soon, 85,000 miles and not sure when done last, bought used. Do I need to change both filters or maybe mine only has internal filter? Thank you!
Unfortunately still under works! It has proven a harder one to research and get clear direction on. Your CVT has two filters: a strainer filter in the pan and a particulate filter just near the mating surface with the engine. TBH, you can just swap the fluid if you need to do the work now. If you’re up for a bit more work, dropping the pan and swapping the strainer filter is relatively straight forward. The secondary filter still proves he’s to get to, and working up a good approach to recommend folks for doing so - there are a number of other videos out there though that offer some walk through!
I don't own a Nissan, but I own a 10th gen Honda. Every CVT should be drained and filled every 30k atleast. Or if you're like me I do it 3x a year. I use eneos since it's on the shelf, and it's good stuff. Amsoil is great too, but expensive and nobody in my area has it. Honda wants $86 for 4 qrts 😆 yeah um...no thanks. Eneos is perfect for most Japanese cars.
Yup has been a good option!
Did Eneos give you any problem? Nissan insists their own CVT fluid or else will damage the transmission.
Nope not at all. On further digging, there’s also a high likelihood Eneos fulfills the Nissan fluid order.
In general, all OEMs “insist” on their fluid, but I’ve never found issue with using any fluid that’s certified as in-spec.
dealership is trying to charge me $325 for “cvt transmission service”.. is that this ? because i feel i can pay cheaper to get this done
I would imagine so! Definitely easy enough to do at home ☺️
This basic video is elementary. To do it properly, use the transmission out and in fluid cooling lines to change oil out entirely. Look at the fluid out until you see the clear new oil come out. then put it all back together and check oil level by using the oil level plug on the side of the tranny. Now, and only now, you have changed out the transmission fluid.
Good point!
Show video then of how and with what equipment.
It seems nissan does not want people doing there own service all newer nissans to change engine oil you must remove 18 plastic clips and 2 bolts to remove splash guard to get to oil pan and filter😢
Definitely takes time!
Can I take my 2019 Nissan Rogue to have a CVT transmission service to a mechanic shop instead of a dealership?
Yes - just want to be sure they’re using the right spec fluid (Asian CVT fluid is a little more finicky than American spec/not as mix and match)
Don't forget to unplug battery after CVT oil change for 2-4 hours.
Good thought!
@@MattStephensRich do you know what reason?
Why?
Off-brand is better as long as the specs are the same or better. Go Amsoil; your CVT will last longer.
Also, if you do not have a torque wrench, just get it nice and snug. Don't wrench on it and go super tight.
AMSoil is no better than ENEOS or Idemitsu except for its marketing.
In spec is always key 🙌🏻
Does not changing your engine oil have anything thing to do with having problems with your transmission trying to find a answer to this question thank you
no
Not correlated, and different engine/oil systems.
How about the paper filter inside the cvt oil cooler it's ofter overlooked
Suuuuuper hard to get to unfortunately, and have been trying to figure out a helpful, reasonable way to get to it without a genuine professional grade approach.
I got my transmission dip stick on Amazon for just $ 10.00 f/ my 2020 Rogue
Hi , whats that 14mm bolt on an angle on minute 14:56 (left) for ?
next to the 19mm drain plug . Great video thank you !
That is the bleed valve under the transmission, which you can also use for leveling fluid. I opted to do the dipstick route as it’s a lot more comfortable for a wider variety of people and an easier way to measure levels without needed to get under the car. 😊
Great thanks for your help !
I have a 2014 Nissan rogue sport and mine has a transmission dip stic
Count yourself blessed!
Mine 2014 Rogue doesn't have one
I have a 2018 rogue with 130k miles on it, never changed the transmission fluid, is it too late to do so? Also how much did everything cost you in total?
Never too late for a fluid swap! Quarts vary in price, around $15-$20 per quart.
Nissan is charging $450 + tx CAD for that to my parents !
Woof definitely a lot!
It's like they don't want you to work on your own vehicle.
Right!?
I can find a video on this for every year except the third gen (2022)…..can ANBODY help please! I need to change my 2022 rogue sport trans fluid
It should be a pretty comparable process, as I believe the dipstick location is in the same spot on the newer Jatco transmissions!
My 2017 Nissan rogue doesn’t hav the measuring tape , what should I check
You can buy your own dipstick should you be needing to measure!
I drain the fluid and refill every 15k miles then the next time i change cartridge filter only the 3rd time i change everything... to much?
15k miles may be a bit overkill and could be dialed back to 20k-30k. I have been able to find language on filter changes recommended for every 30k (working on a follow-up video with filter changes included), so fluid change could be indexed with that. But hey, these CVTs are notoriously culprit for failure, so airing on the safe side is perfectly rational as well.
So you just don't change the filter you just change the fluid
Correct for this vid!
Can you repost the link for the dipstick plz
It’s in the video description!
How accurate is this dipstick? Any problems with your transmission after performing this service?
Nope has been running great!
Did you or are you able to leave the aftermarket dip stick in like the oil dipstick or do you have to take it out?
Yea you can leave it in!
No don't leave the dip stick in I heard that the cvt fluid will corrod the dip stick
Shouldn’t you do a calibration as well?
Nothing to calibrate!
Hello would this be the same for 2012 nissan rogue
dont they have those overflow plugs with allen key beneath the drain plug?
Yes they do, however wanted to show a dipstick option as that’s far more familiar for the vast majority. 😊
I’m sorry if I missed it but how many miles were on this vehicle? I have a 2019 With 27,000 miles. I plan on getting this done at my 30,000 mile oil change. I purchased it about a year ago with 15,000 miles, I feel like there has been a whine at like 3,000 RPM since the day I bought it.
This car was at 80,000 when I did the service (bought it as a former fleet car). Likewise there was some whining, which did go away with the fluid swap.
CHANGE TRANSMISSION FILTER/FILTERS AT 60 000 MILES IS LESS THAN IDEAL BUT NOT AS CRUCIAL AS THE FLUID CHANGE EVERY 20 000 MILES WITH FULL SYNTHETIC OIL DUE TO BEARING FAILURES BEING QUITE PREVALENT AMONGST NISSANS CVT DUE TO EXCESSIVE HEAT BUILDUP COUPLED WITHA LESS THAN IDEAL FLUID CAPACITY IN ORDER TO DISSIPATE AND COOL COMPONENTS WITHIN THE MECHANICAL PORTION OF THE CVT.
👍🏻👍🏻
NS 3 is NOT backwards compatible!! You made a mistake in your video
The fluid I was using is compatible for both NS-2 and NS-3 😊
@MattStephensRich most of good cvt oils are NS2 and NS3 compatible. The international standard for NS3 oil clearly say that is not compatible and contains different additives. You mentioned that is backwards compatible, which is wrong. This is what I am saying here. You cannot use NS3 oil in a NS2 cvt gearbox
I do use Eneos too. Is the best oil for Japanese brands, along with Intemitsu
So the original part does not have a dipstick?
That’s correct! There is a cap cover (with no dipstick) and a bleeder valve down below you can use for checking level while running. Annoying on all counts!
@@MattStephensRich how long is the dipstick? Is it longer than the oil dipstick?