Before you even consider upgrading brakes, you've got to think about how easily you can lock up your tires, no point getting a massive brake kit if you're running economy tires that can't handle it. Better brakes will however handle brake fade a lot better, and this is actually one of the main advantages of upgrading your brakes.
spete7 Very good point! The Evo comes with very sticky tires from the factor, and is currently equipped with 200 treadwear tires, so it wasn't much of a worry in this test. But that's absolutely true, the best brakes in the world will only serve to lock up crappy tires.
Treadwear rating is not useful on its own, it can only be used to compare wear rates on tires of the same manufacturer since there is no official scale, manufactures use their own unique scales. Manufacturer A's 200 treadwear tire might not stop as good as Manufacturer B's 400 treadwear tire. "The best brakes in the world" should lock up good expensive quality sticky tires too - I mean, they'd better or you're not taking full advantage of the available friction of the tire.
People should also keep in mind that the harder you can brake without any ABS engagement the quicker you will stop. ABS is only stopping you from locking up, not slowing you down faster.
While I agree that treadwear rating aren't consistent, organizations use that rating as part of the rules for competitive competition. For example the SCCA Solo 2 Nationals use a 200 treadwear rating as the standard for many street and mod class cars. I would think they are close just not perfect. Just food for thought.
Great video as always! Some people don't realize how much of a braking performance boost you can achieve by just doing the rotors and pads. This is a perfect example.
What a high production value! Like you commented, tires do all the stopping but with this simple brake mods, it will even transform into a whole another level
Production quality of this channel is just beyond any and all expectations. You guys are making amazing videos here, I look forward to watching your channel and name grow!
I have had DBA rotors on my GTO for about two years (at least 15,000 miles) and they definitely hold up. Their omni-directional cut is pretty convenient, too.
only other thing to take in to account for better braking is tires. your test was done fine as there was no change done to this. i'm pretty sure you guys have talked about the different compound tires making a difference before as well.
The Hp+ works excellent for track days and even endurance racing, if you have a lighter car. I use them myself on track, great pad. You should also mention brake cooling/ ducting, should be the next upgrade after pads if you want to to drive on track. It's cheap and and can seriously increase pad life and fade resistance.
As my dad said when I was a kid that 1 foot can saved or end a kids life Don't cheap out on safety it's not just your life that matters ... It's every one around you !
The best remedy for that is to drive to the conditions and be attentive. In Australia we have a massive issue with young people mainly, driving whilst operating a phone. The fact that any driver thinks it is ok to take your eyes of the road for a second, let alone sending txts & whatever else bullshit that those types do. Nothing is so important that it trumps human safety, especially other peoples & public areas.
I did a similar setup when I owned a 01 Bmw 330i. I did super blue brake fluid before it was banned for being blue brembo blank rotors and hawk hp plus pads. It made a huge difference.
Hey guys, just a quick question, at 5:06, you guys parked sideways in the street, which does not look like a street in the middle of no-where, did you guys have someone at the end looking if a car was coming, or did you quickly block the street ? I am asking because I always like to know more about producing car videos and the work that goes into them. Great video as always !
I just changed my rotors and breaks on my z33, went from the stock base rotors to EBC slotted and semi drilled rotors with ceramic red low dust breaks. Honestly I love the sound of slotted breaks while breaking..😍 also changed out the stock break lines to stainless steel wildwoods. 🤙🏼
Excellent content and an entertaining, yet educational video on the gains you can get from a simple pad and rotor upgrade. When it comes time for new pads and rotors for my MKV GTI, I’ll definitely be looking into some slotted rotors and performance pads. Thanks Ben(s)! :D
Talked my dad into installing better brakes on his subaru legacy. Softer pads/ slotted and drilled rotors made a night and day difference in stopping. Even saved us from hitting a couple deer on the b roads of new Jersey. Sounds like a helicopter when you stop now too because of the slots :)
Wish you also adressed brake fluid as that is often overlooked. Flushing your brake fluid with some high performance fluid can also help with braking performance and a better pedal feel. Also curious if steel braided brake lines help only vs fade or actually give some better braking performance
Better pedal feel can help in a lot of ways. The brain remembers pressure much easier than distance so with a harder pedal you can more accurately hit your desired speed when entering a corner at an event.
When i put braided lines on my WRX there was no mush in the pedals, as soon as you put any pressure on the brake pedal it started braking, there was no little bit a give anymore. it honestly was the biggest difference i noticed. I did slotted cryo treated rotors and hawk HPS pads and the braided made a bigger difference IMO. but combined with it all it was amazing. also did higher temp fluid as well.
Ive ordered braided lines and new fluid so nice to hear that makes a bigger difference. Excited to try it out. I didnt go for pads or rotors in the start because I want to see first if just fluid and new lines would be enough.
The funny thing here is that all factory and cheap-o replacement brake lines are braided, just internally rather than externally. It is required for any hydraulic system to function properly that hoses don't swell. If there is any noticeable improvement in pedal feel from upgrading to the aftermarket braided lines, then your factory lines were damaged in some way. However, since the exterior is braided rather than (or in addition to) the interior braiding, it does serve to protect the line from physical damage from kicked up rocks or rubbing the tire. And they look fantastic. Braided lines won't do anything to help or hurt brake fade.
I'm at 600whp on my IX and still use OEM rotors and brembos. The best things I've done is hawk hps pads, ss lines, motul fluid, and RE-11 tires which are now discontinued. Honestly great tires made the best improvement.
big brake kits aren't about reducing stopping distance, its about keeping the same stopping distance on lap 17 as on lap 2. for a single run stopping distance, the only thing that matters are tires and pads (assuming you have a car building in the last 25 years or so with a properly functioning braking system). rotors make a very small impact on stopping distance, if anything at all. but good rotor design is a big part of a big brake kit as far as keeping temps in check for those repeated stops. This is usually limited in applications where you're still using the stock caliper by rotor thickness.
Yep, pads alone are huge.... well that is if you have the tires to go with them. I have Hawk's Street/Race pads and I daily them and AutoX/ light track day with them. They bite so good. I got the chance to take a stock 2012 911 out for a spirited jaunt around the block. I was surprised that my little civic with just high performance pads felt better. I know, I know anecdotal but it helps to show that you can gain really good performance out of the stock system.
Aside from dust and noise, upgraded pads can cause a lot more heat. Combined with cross drilled or slotted rotors it can become much more likely you can warp or crack a rotor, especially in cold weather where brakes will cool much more rapidly.
Distance differences can be accounted for the thickness available (worn in vs. New pads). My parent's Nissan Rogue could stop on a dime when brand new, but after wear in the braking went back to normal. Brake change, then same thing for about 100 km.
Great vid! On a related subject, rotor replacement is the single most rip-off from a repair shop, in my humble opinion. You go in for a brake pad job and they want to replace your 4 rotors. Most people fall for it.
I used Hawk HP+ on my Civic for track days, and they were great. Not so great for brake modulation, but damn they could take a beating. Going from 90 down to 30mph lap after lap on a hairpin at Buttonwillow and they NEVER faded. But holy hell, the noise and dust was a big compromise to live with.
Typically that shouldn't be the case unless we're talking about repeated stops where HP+ would maintain their friction over a wider temp range. I wonder if ABS is playing a bigger part here as well. The frequency at which it switches between grab and release might create more friction force during the grab intervals, hence stopping faster with the high friction pad. Interesting stuff.
nice editing I have a 2004 Saturn Ion sedan with front calipers and rear drums. are these rotors and pads available for my application along with drum/pad upgrades for my Ion? yes I drive like a bat out of hell. lol
I'll be swapping my stock 2013 Focus ST front brakes to 2016 Focus RS front brakes. So single piston to four piston setup. I should measure the difference. I'm planning on using the same brand and type of pads and rotors. Currently using Hawk HPS pads and Stocktech slotted rotors. Not going for the two piece rotors.
You should do a video on different set up on cars. From autocross builds to drag cars to pro street cars. Even to vip static builds. Just a well round of different builds of cars.
Love this, but after doing hawk hps pad and the stock wrx rotors, going to go 4 piston calipers as a "bbk", would love to know if you notice more nose dive in braking hard?
You can spend a little more and get ebc redstuff semi ceramic, they have about the same dust as the oem brembos. And its a lot easyer to clean. They allso handel realy nice BUT if you overheat them they die verry fast
curious how just the upgraded pads would have been with the stock rotors. I bet similar to your rotor&pad performance only it's much cheaper to buy just pads.
What’s the point of owning an Evo and then putting economy pads on it... Also, the initial brake test with the ‘eco’ parts may have cooked the fluid and influenced how well the performance rotors and pads actually perform once these were installed.
+Luka Jankovic very unlikely. The stops were only from 70, with big gaps between braking attempts. Dot4 fluid has much higher temperature threshholds than that.
Alex Tyrone it’s not about how much power you have now but how much power you will have. That’s interesting tho, what car has brembos stock with 200hp?
because you don't need a big brake kit for the street. even track driving it is not required. Tires and pads will make the biggest difference in braking distance.
Yes. While they will certainly work to stop right out of box, their performance will improve after they've been used for a bit or properly bedded right away. "Bedding" the brakes causes the rotor surface to be deburred and pits and grooves to be filled with pad material. The pad material benefits from being worn slightly, smoothing the surface. The surfaces of both have contaminants burnt off. The result is that you have a far greater surface area making contact between the rotors and the pad.
ferro carbon is a poor choice for abs equiped vehicles, its so grabby that it interferes with the abs system...a better choice would be the more "middle of the road" ceramic brake pads...the best part about the carbon pads is they are very gentle on rotors as the softer pads wear away much faster...the ceramic is nearly as gentle but much longer lasting than both the racing pads and the economy pads...the economy pads will rip apart the rotors with their high metal content so theres really no money saved...i buy ceramic, they last for years and i just swap out the pads when they are done...i learned all of this by reading about EBC brake pads
stickloaf I agree I mostly do spirited driving and got a great deal on EBC Redstuff and rotors they do squeak a little but the performance you get for the money is top notch
Noah Dropkin with brembos and a large disc and pad, 70-0 with at least a couple minutes between each stop won't cause any fade. We'd have to be doing stops with much shorter intervals between in order to see any fade.
The question is, how old were the brakes that were on the car? Don't get me wrong, I'm enjoying the video and all, but is this apple to apples? New stock rotors and pads vs new upgraded?
Edward Agora Feenman good question! The economy setup still had tons of life left and had seen very few miles and very little use before being switched out. Both the blank rotors and ceramic pads were put on the car at the same time. Also, the 156.5 foot stopping distance is almost dead-on with what the car should be doing stock, as per a test conducted by Car and Driver way back when.
You changed 2 variables at once! I'm curious to know how just the performance pads would do with the stock rotors and vice-versa (upgraded rotors with stock pads).
When you add about 50% more hp to your car, I don't think just doing upgraded pads and rotors will cut it. When you roast ceramic pads with oem brake set up on the e-way I think its time for a big brake kit. At least that with i'm going through right now.
You should have done it with pads alone and then with rotors alone. It's obvious that if you upgrade both, you'll get better braking, but which one is more responsible for the improvement? I'm disappointed
+exit07 with an anodized or painted top hat like on these DBA rotors, your top hat shouldn't rust. I'd say maybe a carbon ceramic rotor ring wouldn't rust either but I'm not sure. Any iron based rotor ring is likely to build up a little rust if not driven
Let's be Real here guys the only reason people put big brake kit on their car is because it "looks sick Bra" Half these kids don't even care about brakeing and its a shame Stance nation shit Na wat I mean
Before you even consider upgrading brakes, you've got to think about how easily you can lock up your tires, no point getting a massive brake kit if you're running economy tires that can't handle it. Better brakes will however handle brake fade a lot better, and this is actually one of the main advantages of upgrading your brakes.
spete7 Very good point! The Evo comes with very sticky tires from the factor, and is currently equipped with 200 treadwear tires, so it wasn't much of a worry in this test. But that's absolutely true, the best brakes in the world will only serve to lock up crappy tires.
Treadwear rating is not useful on its own, it can only be used to compare wear rates on tires of the same manufacturer since there is no official scale, manufactures use their own unique scales. Manufacturer A's 200 treadwear tire might not stop as good as Manufacturer B's 400 treadwear tire.
"The best brakes in the world" should lock up good expensive quality sticky tires too - I mean, they'd better or you're not taking full advantage of the available friction of the tire.
Btw, looking at the thread pattern, he seems to have hankook RS3 which is pretty good tires to use in the braking test.
People should also keep in mind that the harder you can brake without any ABS engagement the quicker you will stop. ABS is only stopping you from locking up, not slowing you down faster.
While I agree that treadwear rating aren't consistent, organizations use that rating as part of the rules for competitive competition. For example the SCCA Solo 2 Nationals use a 200 treadwear rating as the standard for many street and mod class cars. I would think they are close just not perfect. Just food for thought.
deserve alot more subs. really quality videos and editing
Massive improvement, wasn’t expecting such a big difference 👌🏻
Each camera angle is just pleasing to the eyes and to top it off informative and interesting videos. Love it as always
Seriously the production quality in ya'lls videos is unsurpassed among automotive youtubers. Seriously Fantastic work
Great video as always! Some people don't realize how much of a braking performance boost you can achieve by just doing the rotors and pads. This is a perfect example.
What a high production value!
Like you commented, tires do all the stopping but with this simple brake mods, it will even transform into a whole another level
Production quality of this channel is just beyond any and all expectations. You guys are making amazing videos here, I look forward to watching your channel and name grow!
It's interesting seeing Australian equipment being used overseas. Glad you guys like our discs!
Was thinking the same😅.
I have had DBA rotors on my GTO for about two years (at least 15,000 miles) and they definitely hold up. Their omni-directional cut is pretty convenient, too.
Chanel is just getting better and better, appreciate your work guys!
Seriously your editing and directing skills are, to me, on the same level with Top Gear. Keep up the amazing work bros!
only other thing to take in to account for better braking is tires. your test was done fine as there was no change done to this. i'm pretty sure you guys have talked about the different compound tires making a difference before as well.
The Hp+ works excellent for track days and even endurance racing, if you have a lighter car. I use them myself on track, great pad. You should also mention brake cooling/ ducting, should be the next upgrade after pads if you want to to drive on track. It's cheap and and can seriously increase pad life and fade resistance.
I was literally about to go buy some brakes for my Miata! Perfect timing guys!
As my dad said when I was a kid that 1 foot can saved or end a kids life
Don't cheap out on safety it's not just your life that matters ...
It's every one around you !
So I'm expecting all your cars have straight up Bugatti gear? Because that is the stuff that will stop quickest...
The best remedy for that is to drive to the conditions and be attentive. In Australia we have a massive issue with young people mainly, driving whilst operating a phone. The fact that any driver thinks it is ok to take your eyes of the road for a second, let alone sending txts & whatever else bullshit that those types do. Nothing is so important that it trumps human safety, especially other peoples & public areas.
at the last foot the car is almost stopped and going slowly anyway
I have literally waited all day to watch this. Had a college visit and had no Wi-Fi so i couldn't eat h this video...
geez so much time put into each video, great work
Excellent test...no fluff
Awesome video! I love how you guys can take the simplest things and turn them into something amazing to look at
I did a similar setup when I owned a 01 Bmw 330i. I did super blue brake fluid before it was banned for being blue brembo blank rotors and hawk hp plus pads. It made a huge difference.
Hey guys, just a quick question, at 5:06, you guys parked sideways in the street, which does not look like a street in the middle of no-where, did you guys have someone at the end looking if a car was coming, or did you quickly block the street ? I am asking because I always like to know more about producing car videos and the work that goes into them. Great video as always !
I just changed my rotors and breaks on my z33, went from the stock base rotors to EBC slotted and semi drilled rotors with ceramic red low dust breaks. Honestly I love the sound of slotted breaks while breaking..😍 also changed out the stock break lines to stainless steel wildwoods. 🤙🏼
*brakes
Excellent content and an entertaining, yet educational video on the gains you can get from a simple pad and rotor upgrade. When it comes time for new pads and rotors for my MKV GTI, I’ll definitely be looking into some slotted rotors and performance pads. Thanks Ben(s)! :D
Talked my dad into installing better brakes on his subaru legacy. Softer pads/ slotted and drilled rotors made a night and day difference in stopping. Even saved us from hitting a couple deer on the b roads of new Jersey. Sounds like a helicopter when you stop now too because of the slots :)
Wish you also adressed brake fluid as that is often overlooked. Flushing your brake fluid with some high performance fluid can also help with braking performance and a better pedal feel. Also curious if steel braided brake lines help only vs fade or actually give some better braking performance
KoNLaR great point, I think I'm going to have this done next
Better pedal feel can help in a lot of ways. The brain remembers pressure much easier than distance so with a harder pedal you can more accurately hit your desired speed when entering a corner at an event.
When i put braided lines on my WRX there was no mush in the pedals, as soon as you put any pressure on the brake pedal it started braking, there was no little bit a give anymore. it honestly was the biggest difference i noticed. I did slotted cryo treated rotors and hawk HPS pads and the braided made a bigger difference IMO. but combined with it all it was amazing. also did higher temp fluid as well.
Ive ordered braided lines and new fluid so nice to hear that makes a bigger difference. Excited to try it out. I didnt go for pads or rotors in the start because I want to see first if just fluid and new lines would be enough.
The funny thing here is that all factory and cheap-o replacement brake lines are braided, just internally rather than externally. It is required for any hydraulic system to function properly that hoses don't swell. If there is any noticeable improvement in pedal feel from upgrading to the aftermarket braided lines, then your factory lines were damaged in some way.
However, since the exterior is braided rather than (or in addition to) the interior braiding, it does serve to protect the line from physical damage from kicked up rocks or rubbing the tire.
And they look fantastic.
Braided lines won't do anything to help or hurt brake fade.
I'm at 600whp on my IX and still use OEM rotors and brembos. The best things I've done is hawk hps pads, ss lines, motul fluid, and RE-11 tires which are now discontinued. Honestly great tires made the best improvement.
love the vids! like i tell all my friends, "there is no point of having all that power, if you cant stop."
always killing it with the sweet vids!!! keep up the awesome content!!
Ha this is the exact same setup I have on my Mx5. DBA + Hawk HPS. Could not be happier, the HAWK HPS also have minimal dust in my experience.
Keep in mind that's 2 lb on a worn down rotor vs a brand new one.
+Bad DFW Drivers very little use on the blank rotor as well
I weighed a new drilled and grooved rotor and it was actually a tiny bit heavier than my blank one that came off. Shows how worn that old one was
YMC-DAB420 most people replace old stock with new stock... The proper comparison is new stock vs new racing brakes....
You guys do great work in your videos !
big brake kits aren't about reducing stopping distance, its about keeping the same stopping distance on lap 17 as on lap 2. for a single run stopping distance, the only thing that matters are tires and pads (assuming you have a car building in the last 25 years or so with a properly functioning braking system). rotors make a very small impact on stopping distance, if anything at all. but good rotor design is a big part of a big brake kit as far as keeping temps in check for those repeated stops. This is usually limited in applications where you're still using the stock caliper by rotor thickness.
Yep, pads alone are huge.... well that is if you have the tires to go with them. I have Hawk's Street/Race pads and I daily them and AutoX/ light track day with them. They bite so good. I got the chance to take a stock 2012 911 out for a spirited jaunt around the block. I was surprised that my little civic with just high performance pads felt better. I know, I know anecdotal but it helps to show that you can gain really good performance out of the stock system.
Awsome video as always!
Aside from dust and noise, upgraded pads can cause a lot more heat. Combined with cross drilled or slotted rotors it can become much more likely you can warp or crack a rotor, especially in cold weather where brakes will cool much more rapidly.
thx, great test, waiting for seeing one for tyres upgrade etc.
Distance differences can be accounted for the thickness available (worn in vs. New pads). My parent's Nissan Rogue could stop on a dime when brand new, but after wear in the braking went back to normal. Brake change, then same thing for about 100 km.
Awesome video. Great information. Keep it up!
His numberplate doe, love Archer
Another great video guys!
Great information. Its been difficult to find info like this. Where have you been all my life?
Great vid! On a related subject, rotor replacement is the single most rip-off from a repair shop, in my humble opinion. You go in for a brake pad job and they want to replace your 4 rotors. Most people fall for it.
tires do most of the braking, rotors, calipers, and pads are mainly for heat capacity and brake feel
ForTehNguyen, the kinda guy that's never driven a muscle car with drum brakes. Seriously, yes, the tire's important; and brakes more so.
50/50
In can put slicks under a fiat Panda and still it won't stop much faster
I used Hawk HP+ on my Civic for track days, and they were great. Not so great for brake modulation, but damn they could take a beating. Going from 90 down to 30mph lap after lap on a hairpin at Buttonwillow and they NEVER faded. But holy hell, the noise and dust was a big compromise to live with.
What are the best model-brand brake pads to brake modulation ?.
Love all the vids u guys deserve more subs
My God, I haven't seen someone driving an Evo in ages!
Great video guys!
Your original brake pads speaks volumes about your driving character and/or the car's intended use.
Typically that shouldn't be the case unless we're talking about repeated stops where HP+ would maintain their friction over a wider temp range. I wonder if ABS is playing a bigger part here as well. The frequency at which it switches between grab and release might create more friction force during the grab intervals, hence stopping faster with the high friction pad.
Interesting stuff.
PS Love the two-part rotors. All rotors should be that way
nice editing
I have a 2004 Saturn Ion sedan with front calipers and rear drums. are these rotors and pads available for my application along with drum/pad upgrades for my Ion? yes I drive like a bat out of hell. lol
I'll be swapping my stock 2013 Focus ST front brakes to 2016 Focus RS front brakes. So single piston to four piston setup. I should measure the difference. I'm planning on using the same brand and type of pads and rotors. Currently using Hawk HPS pads and Stocktech slotted rotors. Not going for the two piece rotors.
High enough air pressure and quality tires are extremely important as well.
You should do a video on different set up on cars. From autocross builds to drag cars to pro street cars. Even to vip static builds. Just a well round of different builds of cars.
Love this, but after doing hawk hps pad and the stock wrx rotors, going to go 4 piston calipers as a "bbk", would love to know if you notice more nose dive in braking hard?
I've got these same DBA rotors and Gloc GS1 pads on my 2019 STI.
Just replaced mine ... HUGE difference
Great video guys! Was there any noticeable difference in brake fade between the two set ups?
+Ryan Tyniec wasn't able to really test brake fade, but the new setup should certainly be more resistant.
Gears and Gasoline Thanks for the reply, love your videos guys!
WTF RUclips!! I didn't receive any notification of this video coming out....it's not even on my list of suggested videos.....
You can spend a little more and get ebc redstuff semi ceramic, they have about the same dust as the oem brembos. And its a lot easyer to clean. They allso handel realy nice BUT if you overheat them they die verry fast
Hey, could you do the test with brake lines? Brided versus stock.
Also, what kind of jack is that? It looks so cool.
But Brembos are sick afff loll....only issue is they're like $1k used in Canada....
+1 for DBA and Hawk Pads!!!
Very impressive
curious how just the upgraded pads would have been with the stock rotors. I bet similar to your rotor&pad performance only it's much cheaper to buy just pads.
why does everyone say tyres only matter for braking distance - does this prove that wrong?
I have drum brakes in the back
I want to install disk brakes
Help me with a video explain...
What’s the point of owning an Evo and then putting economy pads on it...
Also, the initial brake test with the ‘eco’ parts may have cooked the fluid and influenced how well the performance rotors and pads actually perform once these were installed.
+Luka Jankovic being on a budget and not intending to track it for a while. Sometimes you just need a stopgap.
Gears and Gasoline that’s fair enough.
Any feedback on the fluid? Real curious whether this may have had an influence on the result.
+Luka Jankovic very unlikely. The stops were only from 70, with big gaps between braking attempts. Dot4 fluid has much higher temperature threshholds than that.
I've heard that the HP Plus pads are very noisy. I suppose it's more of a semi-metallic pad.
I also put slotted rotors on my lawnmower ;)
There isn’t a lot of people I know that invest in braking before power mods. Most of them don’t have their cars now.
KG Egzi great point. Probably low on most people's list
KG Egzi my car is 200 hp i dont need to upgraded my stock brembos on it 😂
Alex Tyrone it’s not about how much power you have now but how much power you will have. That’s interesting tho, what car has brembos stock with 200hp?
because you don't need a big brake kit for the street. even track driving it is not required. Tires and pads will make the biggest difference in braking distance.
KG Egzi the BRZ with the Performance Package is 205 HP and comes with Brembos. Not sure if there are others, but that one comes straight to mind.
Do pads and rotors need to be broken in for optimum results?
+Man from Nantucket indeed! They should be "bedded in" per the manufacturer's instructions. We did these off-camera.
Yes.
While they will certainly work to stop right out of box, their performance will improve after they've been used for a bit or properly bedded right away.
"Bedding" the brakes causes the rotor surface to be deburred and pits and grooves to be filled with pad material. The pad material benefits from being worn slightly, smoothing the surface. The surfaces of both have contaminants burnt off. The result is that you have a far greater surface area making contact between the rotors and the pad.
1:40 you forgot to mention struts/shocks/springs and how much of a difference they can make for braking distances
Master cylinder braces are a cheap, effective and underrated mod
Quality content.
those T3 5000 rotors are $480 a pop (for an sn95 cobra, 13" rotor)... Wilwood big brake kits are cheaper than just those ROTORS for most cars.
nice job
ferro carbon is a poor choice for abs equiped vehicles, its so grabby that it interferes with the abs system...a better choice would be the more "middle of the road" ceramic brake pads...the best part about the carbon pads is they are very gentle on rotors as the softer pads wear away much faster...the ceramic is nearly as gentle but much longer lasting than both the racing pads and the economy pads...the economy pads will rip apart the rotors with their high metal content so theres really no money saved...i buy ceramic, they last for years and i just swap out the pads when they are done...i learned all of this by reading about EBC brake pads
stickloaf I agree I mostly do spirited driving and got a great deal on EBC Redstuff and rotors they do squeak a little but the performance you get for the money is top notch
stickloaf ^ this, I got cheap ceramic pads for my daily because it needed them and they are a massive improvement in the grippy-ness of the brakes.
Ceramic brakes need more heat to outperform the others methods. You need "bite" asap on daily drive
Cramic pads belongs to toyota prius and Hyundai elantra not on a performance car that gets driven hard.
Good video. Glad I sub’d
Interesting that you did 10 tests, taking the average, did you see any trends in brake fade?
Noah Dropkin with brembos and a large disc and pad, 70-0 with at least a couple minutes between each stop won't cause any fade. We'd have to be doing stops with much shorter intervals between in order to see any fade.
Hmmm, I heard that DBA rotors usually cracks.
The question is, how old were the brakes that were on the car?
Don't get me wrong, I'm enjoying the video and all, but is this apple to apples?
New stock rotors and pads vs new upgraded?
Edward Agora Feenman good question! The economy setup still had tons of life left and had seen very few miles and very little use before being switched out. Both the blank rotors and ceramic pads were put on the car at the same time. Also, the 156.5 foot stopping distance is almost dead-on with what the car should be doing stock, as per a test conducted by Car and Driver way back when.
Love your videos. Can you do one on camber and stretch tyres and test how they affect handling on track
You changed 2 variables at once! I'm curious to know how just the performance pads would do with the stock rotors and vice-versa (upgraded rotors with stock pads).
When you add about 50% more hp to your car, I don't think just doing upgraded pads and rotors will cut it. When you roast ceramic pads with oem brake set up on the e-way I think its time for a big brake kit. At least that with i'm going through right now.
Since when are brembos bare bones? I mean still good data but those aren’t just your average calipers
Sweet rear bumper :p
one beauty
pads and rotars
Where can I find some performance shoes and drums though?
Pls make more just drive
I would have liked to have seen the pads alone and then adding the rotors to see where the biggest gain was made
Dangerzone!
I can remember when hawks pads were just $ 25 -40/ set ? And retail
A lot
You should have done it with pads alone and then with rotors alone. It's obvious that if you upgrade both, you'll get better braking, but which one is more responsible for the improvement? I'm disappointed
From experience the Hawk HP+ are really hard on rotors for track use.
Then what are the best brake pads to cure for brake disc ?.
Why from 70? Usually testing braking distance you do 60-0. Still great vid
is there a rotor that prevents rust build up over time??
+exit07 with an anodized or painted top hat like on these DBA rotors, your top hat shouldn't rust. I'd say maybe a carbon ceramic rotor ring wouldn't rust either but I'm not sure. Any iron based rotor ring is likely to build up a little rust if not driven
Let's be Real here guys the only reason people put big brake kit on their car is because it "looks sick Bra"
Half these kids don't even care about brakeing and its a shame
Stance nation shit
Na wat I mean