While the dual pin deal is common and recommended by many well respected engine builders that is not the complete answer. it is absolutely critical that adequate clamping force from the bolt is achieved. i have seen where the pin has been to long, ends up sticking out the front of the cam gear and holds up the washer. I have seen soft washers flex and lose tension, i have seen bolts that bottom out in the cam before they are tight on the gear.. All possible contributors to this unfortunately common failure point on ford cams,, not just small blocks. the dual pin scenario is not a magic cure for all.
I see Kyle unthreaded the cam bolt (some non-OEM Allen head bolt) by hand. Was it tight enough on installation? Or was that bolt sufficiently strong to keep the cam gear from fretting?
@@theosmit6366 I noticed that as well and was wishing Kyle would explain if the bolt was that loose, or not. If it were loose, that dowel pin had no chance of long term survival.
For what you have in the engine, the double row timing chain is all you really need...with the exception of a 2nd dowel pin to keep that issue from happening again. What you have looks to be working well...no need to reinvent the wheel.
If you can machine a hole through the broken off dowel you can fill it with oil and use a punch that's the same size as the hole you drilled to tap it out. The punch will try to compress the oil and in turn will push the broken dowel out backwards. I've had to do this with bushings in blind holes before and it works pretty good.
It's nice seeing the 94-95 Mustangs, they are actually rare to see. There are differences in the 94-95 compared to the 96-98 and I am not just talking about the motor. I have a 94 Cobra I am building, only thing that will be 94 on it is the body and the interior.
I love how Steve always makes a silent appearance in your videos 😅 It looks like it’s time to drill the cam gear for the second dowel pin. There actually looks like there’s enough room to go one size larger in pin diameter.
Don’t worry Kyle, mustangs don’t go well on packed snow. Mine was ok with studded snows. 1996 mustang cobra with 315’s in the rear is put away till spring. 52 inches of snow has fallen in 5 days.
I’ve recently seen a supercharged 302 factory block held 1000hp, ish, maybe 750-800 torque ish, on dyno, dozens of runs, to then tear it down to see if it was hurt, it wasn’t, I believe balance and tune are requisite for it not to split down valley
@davidtappe5337 yeah I live in the snowbelt, back in the old days our HS would turn a blind eye to us drifting in the big parking lots as would the cops, they knew that learning how to deal with a slide helps your reflexes, I tried drifting on dry pavement once.... Did not end well..
Timing chains do break: In 1992 during the first start up of the 302 in my 1983 5.0L Mustang, after complete teardown/rebuild/upgrades, the timing chain snapped. 😜
Hello Kyle and Steve , Windsors ( Small Block Fords ) Dont normally break Timing Chains. Dont put a belt drive in it because they shread belts and cause severe damage ( eventually ) What ive been doing for years is DOUBLE PINNING the gear onto the camshaft. on the stock and aftermarket gears, you will notice at the root of gear / dowell there is a large difference in DIA to the dowell bore, causing a leverage against the dowell pin. That gap can be filled with a bush plus install another dowell pin at 180 deg. Machine a large stepped ( as in spigots into the the gear bore ) washer encapsulating the two dowell pins into the large washer , putting them in Double Sheer. Not hard to do, i thought Steve would have advised of this problem . can supply you photos of how to do it. Sincerely Garry Maher / Australia.
Keep on going brother! I've got a question for everyone. Why do people talk like Camshaft install or removal is like Brain surgery? I've been doing it for 40÷ years. You can't hurt the lobes or the bearings unless something is already wrong. If it falls down inside, it's laying on the camshaft core.
5 дней назад+6
Nice disassemble…. Kyle talks just like Steve.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
You guys are the best. You modify every part on the engine right down to the dowel pins,but you still run spark plugs stock,that haven't changed for a hundred years! They spark at 1500 degrees F. and only .030 inches long.A blue laser is 3000 F.and goes all the way to the piston. But someone can make millions if they
One of the great things about Australia is we don't need to salt our roads 4 months out of the year. We do still get rust though just it's different origin.
I run the trick flow .595 lift cam and I learned this the same way I cleaned up the area where the pin goes and it's been back together for years by far my favorite cam
I have fond memories of the 94/95 Mustang Gt, It still had the 5.0 right before Ford put the 4.6 in. My Girlfriend now wife had a Cherry 95 GT in 2000 and I did full bolt ons, heads cam full exhaust, Holley systemmax intake, god that thing was a turd and a half. After spending all that money on the Gt she bought a 2001 F body Z28 and never looked back. A bone stock 6 speed F body would walk a bolt on SN95.
I put the Edelbrock 7892 gear drive on my 302 Ford and have not had any issues, used it on 2 engines, 95 mustang. Just have to massage the factory timing cover for clearancing. $320 Summit.
Man that’s great. Def a best case scenario! Put a Danny b belt drive on it, it works really well and looks nice. I have a couple bump sticks laying around if you need one. Bullet, I think in the .780 range. Glad it was minimal damage, you’ll have it back going pretty quick!
I forget how many lengths of those pins there are for sbf engines. You definitely need the right length. So contact your cam company and make sure you have the right length dowel pin. It's a big deal on a sbf. Good luck!
Why was the cam bolt loose? a dowel pin does not do anything for rotational force. It only locates. A 2nd dowel pin will not stop that from happening. The cam gear stays in place by frictional surfaces. either there was a material failure within the threads or there was not enough clamp load to support the frictional grip. Generally in fords a larger harder washer is used and a larger head bolt to support the clamp loads.
Just wanted to say good on you for actually reading through your comments. Most RUclipsrs think they know more than any of their viewers so they dont bkther reading comments or if they do they dont take note if whats said. So thats good you actually read through them and actually thought about what was said, because not all of us are idiots talking like we know shit when we really dont. At least its something semi-simple and not a rebuild.
I know you and I were talking about pistons kissing the valves. Glad to see it didn't severely destroy anything. Hopefully just some valves and some upgrades. All good brother 💪💪
We broke a dowel off our 460 ford engine, we brought the cam and gear to a machine shop and had them remove it and drill the cam and gear so it had 2 dowels,, this is fords bad idea, all the valve train pressure is on that one little dowel ! Also one time it sheared the tiny pin in the distributor gear, that needs to be bigger.
Was the cam bolt loose? Looks like to me you turned the cam bolt by hand? If you have the 7/16th cam bolt just put some RED LOCTITE on the bolt and tq the bolt to 70ft lbs and you will never have a problem! I have the ARP 7/16th cam bolt. If you need the part # I can give it to you. I forgot to mention if the cam is double pinned and the cam bolt comes loose you will shear both cam pins, I have been working on small block fords for 25 years and you learn from mistakes 😊 I have the same combo as you except I have Afr 205s heads and I'm supercharged, making 1210 rwhp and running 5.00s in the 1/8 & 7.90s in the 1/4 @ 3000lbs.
The bolt got loose because the pin broke the valves hit the pistons because engine was off timing on valve timing events … it’s a common issue on sbf with some decent spring pressure …
@georges8secpony I will have to disagree with you, from my experience, the pin is there for alignment and the bolt is what keeps the tension on the timing gear and prevents the timing gear from moving. If the timing gear bolt becomes loose the slightest bit the timing gear will move back and forth and break the pin then all hell breaks loose.
@ im pretty sure he knows how to trq a cam bolt and use red loctite … I have seen this on one of my clients 347ci street engine about 15yrs ago .. same story like above … high spring pressure high rpm solid roller sbf its ideal with the dual cam pin and the bigger can bolt for sure … sometimes things just fail its not always the installers fault … btw I have been building engines for over 25yrs and I have clients running 4.20s on 275s sb cars … so its not like I have don’t have any experience on what I’m saying …
@georges8secpony Well, we can agree to disagree on this subject doesn't mean you are right, and doesn't mean I'm right. I think we both have experience and gave our opinions on what possibly happened, Maybe this can help someone out!
Kyle , Australia calling , mate stick a Ford Barra in it . We would love to see that , plus Steve is doing that Barra in the shop . 🎉❤Barra Power . Let's Go 😊
Could be a damper issue too.. or just running it up on the 2 step too much. 2 steps and hard limiters are so fucking hard on valvetrain and cam drives. Instantaneous accelerations..brutal.
Hi Kyle, a bit of parental advice here! When you tear the engine down, remove the oil-pan dip tube, or put an inverted plastic beaker over it. In years to come you will thank me for still having both eyes... 😜
Well well what had happened was it's got a Ford motor 🛵 in it if it was a Chevrolet👌you wouldn't 🚫 have to work on it all the time lol jk 🏁 great video thanks for bringing us along 💯🔥🇺🇲💨
I had that happen to a new rebuild years ago the cam bolt was also stretched and the dowel brim on start up Lucky I had no damage at all just had to replace the dowel and new bolt
Well that’s not bad it just sucks pulling it all the way and bam no testing. But money wise I’m sure you’re happy. So back to work make that money to go fast. Good luck tell dad black vette Wally says hi
I follow Neo mustangs and he just went through the dowel pin issue. Have to double pin them , at y’all’s power level. I hope I don’t have any issues. He was running his for like half a year or so chasing lower power issues before the bolt loosened up and bent valves.
probably a good idea to at least spray down the bottom with some fresh water , maibe even allready spray some of the nuts and bolts that you need to get off with a rust penetrant just to prevent most of the rust starting when the car dries up with the roadsaelt on everything sure the garagefloor will get wet but then again its going to be dry by the time youre going to work on it
I really like all your videos and seeing your progress (and upgrades once this is fixed) with this TT sbf mustang. Which valve covers are these? Motionraceworks?
Kyle, Charlie Westcott Jr. did a big block Ford with no Dowel pins if I'm correct? I would contact him on seeing what he did. Now I was to do anything more? 7.3L Godzilla with some good parts and your turbo's and go have a blast. No reason to crank that 7.3L up to run 8's. That's just a walk in the park at that level for it. Brian Wolfe is your friend on those 7.3's
i figured so . use that second dowel and run long dowels and machine them flush with gear face .. have seem the oil pump cause the pins to sheer just a heads up . the pump gears gall to the bottom plate ... yes ive broke alot of sbf engines .. usually on southfield freeway i mean Mexico 😅🤣
Guess it's time to upgrade to a 7/16 cam bolt and double pin the cam. Also need red loctite on bolt. I just had a similar failure except the woodruff key on my crank slid out.. no fun.
Was that capscrew bolt that was retaining the timing chain to the camshaft a grade 8 bolt? Doubtful that the pin sheared first. My guess is the bolt loosened and the pin shearing was secondary.
While the dual pin deal is common and recommended by many well respected engine builders that is not the complete answer. it is absolutely critical that adequate clamping force from the bolt is achieved. i have seen where the pin has been to long, ends up sticking out the front of the cam gear and holds up the washer. I have seen soft washers flex and lose tension, i have seen bolts that bottom out in the cam before they are tight on the gear.. All possible contributors to this unfortunately common failure point on ford cams,, not just small blocks. the dual pin scenario is not a magic cure for all.
I see Kyle unthreaded the cam bolt (some non-OEM Allen head bolt) by hand. Was it tight enough on installation? Or was that bolt sufficiently strong to keep the cam gear from fretting?
@@theosmit6366 I noticed that as well and was wishing Kyle would explain if the bolt was that loose, or not. If it were loose, that dowel pin had no chance of long term survival.
For what you have in the engine, the double row timing chain is all you really need...with the exception of a 2nd dowel pin to keep that issue from happening again. What you have looks to be working well...no need to reinvent the wheel.
Was going to say the same
@@Spad68
I 2nd that!
If you can machine a hole through the broken off dowel you can fill it with oil and use a punch that's the same size as the hole you drilled to tap it out. The punch will try to compress the oil and in turn will push the broken dowel out backwards. I've had to do this with bushings in blind holes before and it works pretty good.
Weld something to it
I seen guys push the pilot bushing out of the back of an engine with bread
@@waynerohde1036 I use paper towel pieces soaked in wheel bearing grease. Works great.
at least the cam is set up for 2 dowel pins! Glad it was an fairly easy fix!
You're doing some great videos Kyle, and I liked seeing "Juror #7" slither in for a shot....
Kyle you have a positive attitude on this. I'm sure you were looking forward to sick week as all of us were to see you run.
dude this was some good stuff here, love you guys on how you are so down to earth at the same time light years ahead of most , keep up the good work.
Love how dad come in and looks proud and also has the look “shoulda gone SML”
$100k engine vs a junkyard sbf. Kinda apples to pumpkins don’t you think
@@joshuaearnheart2756Yep!
Way to trigger the sbf guys!
@@joshuaearnheart2756 Yep!
@@darylmorse triggered? Hardly..
The Morris family miles of smiles continue with the Kyle !!
"Dewey" photo bomb & Steve
May FORDS can't handle Horse Power adders ??
It's nice seeing the 94-95 Mustangs, they are actually rare to see. There are differences in the 94-95 compared to the 96-98 and I am not just talking about the motor. I have a 94 Cobra I am building, only thing that will be 94 on it is the body and the interior.
@ the 13.55 min.. Steve pops in and has That Look 👀 on his face.. This Damn Ford motor!! Lmao!! 😂🤣 JK!! But damn ya’ll Crack me Up!! Never Gets Old!!
I love how Steve always makes a silent appearance in your videos 😅 It looks like it’s time to drill the cam gear for the second dowel pin. There actually looks like there’s enough room to go one size larger in pin diameter.
Don’t worry Kyle, mustangs don’t go well on packed snow. Mine was ok with studded snows.
1996 mustang cobra with 315’s in the rear is put away till spring. 52 inches of snow has fallen in 5 days.
As a 69 year old ford guy, I say stick a Cleveland in there. Thanks for the video. You guys rock.
I concur 👍🏼
Closed chambered iron heads with a cam rips. Love my Cleveland.
I’ve recently seen a supercharged 302 factory block held 1000hp, ish, maybe 750-800 torque ish, on dyno, dozens of runs, to then tear it down to see if it was hurt, it wasn’t, I believe balance and tune are requisite for it not to split down valley
Everybody is a drifter when its snowing! Makes me feel like Taylor Ray! But enough jibber jabber back to the video!
haha gotta love t ray lol
Love your comment and Taylor
@davidtappe5337 yeah I live in the snowbelt, back in the old days our HS would turn a blind eye to us drifting in the big parking lots as would the cops, they knew that learning how to deal with a slide helps your reflexes, I tried drifting on dry pavement once.... Did not end well..
The blue car looks so much better with just some new headlights. 👍
Good video well done Kyle and Nate, look forward to seeing the motor refreshed and back at the track.
Happened to NEO too. Glad not too much damage.
Timing chains do break: In 1992 during the first start up of the 302 in my 1983 5.0L Mustang, after complete teardown/rebuild/upgrades, the timing chain snapped. 😜
Hello Kyle and Steve , Windsors ( Small Block Fords ) Dont normally break Timing Chains. Dont put a belt drive in it because they shread belts and cause severe damage ( eventually ) What ive been doing for years is DOUBLE PINNING the gear onto the camshaft. on the stock and aftermarket gears, you will notice
at the root of gear / dowell there is a large difference in DIA to the dowell bore, causing a leverage against the dowell pin. That gap can be filled with a bush plus install another dowell pin at 180 deg. Machine a large stepped ( as in spigots into the the gear bore ) washer encapsulating the two dowell pins into the large washer , putting them in Double Sheer. Not hard to do, i thought Steve would have advised of this problem . can supply you photos of how to do it. Sincerely Garry Maher / Australia.
Keep on going brother! I've got a question for everyone. Why do people talk like Camshaft install or removal is like Brain surgery? I've been doing it for 40÷ years. You can't hurt the lobes or the bearings unless something is already wrong. If it falls down inside, it's laying on the camshaft core.
Nice disassemble…. Kyle talks just like Steve.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
You guys are the best. You modify every part on the engine right down to the dowel pins,but you still run spark plugs stock,that haven't changed for a hundred years! They spark at 1500 degrees F. and only .030 inches long.A blue laser is 3000 F.and goes all the way to the piston. But someone can make millions if they
One of the great things about Australia is we don't need to salt our roads 4 months out of the year. We do still get rust though just it's different origin.
Much respect for the SN95. I have a 1995 347 5 speed car. Trick Flow.
Your lucky. With even that much snow my 83 Mercury Capri 5.0 RS wouldn't have moved when it hit the snow. I'm also in Michigan.
Double pin it. Sometimes the dowel is too long and when you tighten it up everything seems tight but the cam gear is not fully seated on the cam
I run the trick flow .595 lift cam and I learned this the same way I cleaned up the area where the pin goes and it's been back together for years by far my favorite cam
I have fond memories of the 94/95 Mustang Gt, It still had the 5.0 right before Ford put the 4.6 in. My Girlfriend now wife had a Cherry 95 GT in 2000 and I did full bolt ons, heads cam full exhaust, Holley systemmax intake, god that thing was a turd and a half. After spending all that money on the Gt she bought a 2001 F body Z28 and never looked back. A bone stock 6 speed F body would walk a bolt on SN95.
Been there and done that! Make sure you use the long pin or double pin the cam.
I feel your pain we just got our first measurable snow fall up here in Connecticut and go figure I just got the tune on my truck squared away smh
I put the Edelbrock 7892 gear drive on my 302 Ford and have not had any issues, used it on 2 engines, 95 mustang. Just have to massage the factory timing cover for clearancing. $320 Summit.
That car is insanely awesome (blue Mustang)!!
Man that’s great. Def a best case scenario! Put a Danny b belt drive on it, it works really well and looks nice. I have a couple bump sticks laying around if you need one. Bullet, I think in the .780 range. Glad it was minimal damage, you’ll have it back going pretty quick!
the old mans, i told you so face was priceless
Simple fix I put dual dowel pins on ford cams never fails been doing it for thirty five years Johnny d Australia
I forget how many lengths of those pins there are for sbf engines. You definitely need the right length. So contact your cam company and make sure you have the right length dowel pin. It's a big deal on a sbf. Good luck!
Great that you have minimal damage...Time to freshen up your engine!
Maybe save some money , use the chain again ( free! ) make sure cam bolt is decent and correct tension .
Why was the cam bolt loose? a dowel pin does not do anything for rotational force. It only locates. A 2nd dowel pin will not stop that from happening. The cam gear stays in place by frictional surfaces. either there was a material failure within the threads or there was not enough clamp load to support the frictional grip. Generally in fords a larger harder washer is used and a larger head bolt to support the clamp loads.
Very Smart....Well spoken young man.
Just wanted to say good on you for actually reading through your comments. Most RUclipsrs think they know more than any of their viewers so they dont bkther reading comments or if they do they dont take note if whats said. So thats good you actually read through them and actually thought about what was said, because not all of us are idiots talking like we know shit when we really dont. At least its something semi-simple and not a rebuild.
I know you and I were talking about pistons kissing the valves. Glad to see it didn't severely destroy anything. Hopefully just some valves and some upgrades. All good brother 💪💪
We broke a dowel off our 460 ford engine, we brought the cam and gear to a machine shop and had them remove it and drill the cam and gear so it had 2 dowels,, this is fords bad idea, all the valve train pressure is on that one little dowel ! Also one time it sheared the tiny pin in the distributor gear, that needs to be bigger.
Good explanation on camshaft removal, Had me LOL.
The beat hard I was vibing to the time lapse
@@Urazz45 we always try to bring some heat with the back ground music 🙌
Good in depth review of the problem.
Had cam pin break on me while trying to crank it up! Now I have dual dial pins in the cam
OMG that was funny when dad popped in to the frame.....
Talk to Dewey, he knows a guy who can fix that. Make sure you use the right kind of "snake oil" when you reinstall the cam on that sick horse.
Was the cam bolt loose?
Looks like to me you turned the cam bolt by hand?
If you have the 7/16th cam bolt just put some RED LOCTITE on the bolt and tq the bolt to 70ft lbs and you will never have a problem! I have the ARP 7/16th cam bolt. If you need the part # I can give it to you.
I forgot to mention if the cam is double pinned and the cam bolt comes loose you will shear both cam pins, I have been working on small block fords for 25 years and you learn from mistakes 😊
I have the same combo as you except I have Afr 205s heads and I'm supercharged, making 1210 rwhp and running 5.00s in the 1/8 & 7.90s in the 1/4 @ 3000lbs.
The bolt got loose because the pin broke the valves hit the pistons because engine was off timing on valve timing events … it’s a common issue on sbf with some decent spring pressure …
@georges8secpony
I will have to disagree with you, from my experience, the pin is there for alignment and the bolt is what keeps the tension on the timing gear and prevents the timing gear from moving.
If the timing gear bolt becomes loose the slightest bit the timing gear will move back and forth and break the pin then all hell breaks loose.
@ im pretty sure he knows how to trq a cam bolt and use red loctite … I have seen this on one of my clients 347ci street engine about 15yrs ago .. same story like above … high spring pressure high rpm solid roller sbf its ideal with the dual cam pin and the bigger can bolt for sure … sometimes things just fail its not always the installers fault … btw I have been building engines for over 25yrs and I have clients running 4.20s on 275s sb cars … so its not like I have don’t have any experience on what I’m saying …
@georges8secpony
Well, we can agree to disagree on this subject doesn't mean you are right, and doesn't mean I'm right.
I think we both have experience and gave our opinions on what possibly happened, Maybe this can help someone out!
@ right on 👍
Kyle , Australia calling , mate stick a Ford Barra in it . We would love to see that , plus Steve is doing that Barra in the shop . 🎉❤Barra Power . Let's Go 😊
*Amsterdam was added to the call. Yes, Barra for the win.
Barra is missing 2 cylinders!
@@STUART5.7 but lighter and better power for Drag and Drive .
Would be pretty sweet but I don't see him doing it since SM is mainly about V8s
@@kenmackay9276 a barra is not lighter than a small block Windsor
Thanks for sharing the journey with us... That looked an awful much like Sugar Mamma in the back ground.
I would use the tig to weld on the end of the dowell to get something to grip the pin with vice grips
carbide end mill to spot a flat on the broken dowel then carbide drill or end mill to remove the rest of the dowel
Definitely my new favorite channel
Gotta have that gear drive growl!!
Tough break. Glad that's all it was. Fix that cam n go racing. It lasted how long? Lotta street miles too. Save up for the fancy stuff.
Love this Ford channel
Excellent work
john kasse puts twin dowels on his cams just because of that
Could be a damper issue too.. or just running it up on the 2 step too much. 2 steps and hard limiters are so fucking hard on valvetrain and cam drives. Instantaneous accelerations..brutal.
3 bolt cam gear setup would be much better
i hope cherry becomes a nice lil drift car
Yep I made fixture to double dowel mine, And also there are different hardness dowels.
Too hard has a tendecy to shear, softer is more bendy before complete failure..
@@LondonRednek Yep you have to balance that
Good idea to check for any rod slop, just in case.
Kyle and Steve, y'all rock! Love the channel and content. Peace 🤘
I’ve run double dowels on most of my solid roller SBFs in past depending on spring setup.
Let’s see a big block go in. I’m sure you can find one out of a box truck just needing a refresh. A cam and intake.
Glad the valves didn't snap off. Got lucky there. Can you run a bigger dowel with gear drive?
Hi Kyle, a bit of parental advice here! When you tear the engine down, remove the oil-pan dip tube, or put an inverted plastic beaker over it. In years to come you will thank me for still having both eyes... 😜
Don't feel bad about weather Kyle it's 17 degrees in Kentucky tonight .
If you can’t remove the dowel in the cam , some machine shops high amp. electrode that can shatter the pin.
Well well what had happened was it's got a Ford motor 🛵 in it if it was a Chevrolet👌you wouldn't 🚫 have to work on it all the time lol jk 🏁 great video thanks for bringing us along 💯🔥🇺🇲💨
The smart a## face of Steve, priceless! 😂😂😂
I had that happen to a new rebuild years ago the cam bolt was also stretched and the dowel brim on start up
Lucky I had no damage at all just had to replace the dowel and new bolt
Loose camshaft bolt . 🙆♂ Hope to see you up and running soon. A good tig welder can build up the dowel pin get it out.
Well that’s not bad it just sucks pulling it all the way and bam no testing. But money wise I’m sure you’re happy. So back to work make that money to go fast. Good luck tell dad black vette Wally says hi
Definitely needs 2 pins and a 7/16” fine thread bolt with hard washer👍 😁
I love the SBF content
The dreaded dowel pin on the small block ford's.. I hate it got ya man.. but don't feel alone its gotten many of us.. lol
I follow Neo mustangs and he just went through the dowel pin issue. Have to double pin them , at y’all’s power level. I hope I don’t have any issues. He was running his for like half a year or so chasing lower power issues before the bolt loosened up and bent valves.
Called it love to see it usually happen at 500 hp lol let alone 1800 usually dual pinning with some titanium dowel or tungsten same with the crank
Hello Kyle, gives you some time to consider your options!
Darn, my wife named her challenger blueberry.
probably a good idea to at least spray down the bottom with some fresh water , maibe even allready spray some of the nuts and bolts that you need to get off with a rust penetrant just to prevent most of the rust starting when the car dries up with the roadsaelt on everything
sure the garagefloor will get wet but then again its going to be dry by the time youre going to work on it
I feel your salty road pain, I'm from Canada
good video, thanks for sharing what went wrong
I really like all your videos and seeing your progress (and upgrades once this is fixed) with this TT sbf mustang. Which valve covers are these? Motionraceworks?
Nice Cameo DAD!!!!! Lol! edit. New scriber, you missed major carnage.
Kyle, Charlie Westcott Jr. did a big block Ford with no Dowel pins if I'm correct? I would contact him on seeing what he did. Now I was to do anything more? 7.3L Godzilla with some good parts and your turbo's and go have a blast. No reason to crank that 7.3L up to run 8's. That's just a walk in the park at that level for it. Brian Wolfe is your friend on those 7.3's
Lucky mate. Minimal damage equals no major spending.
Look forward to seeing it back together and will you put it back on the dyno??
@@chrisobrien9334 yes! Probably the hub dyno but im not sure. Maybe an engine dyno would be interesting
@ Just for piece of mind before you go racing. Good luck mate. Support from Victor Harbour 🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
My dad would say don't put that key onto that outlet, now that is very different from Steve sayingdont put Nos in there. Anyways dad knows best.
Ford has a counter bore on the timing chain gears dowel hole, it's a bad idea that you can fix by double pining them.
Gotta love the snow! Very minimal tire wear drifting on snow ;)
Yes you need to DOUBLE PIN IT.. I always double pin all my cams.
i figured so . use that second dowel and run long dowels and machine them flush with gear face .. have seem the oil pump cause the pins to sheer just a heads up . the pump gears gall to the bottom plate ... yes ive broke alot of sbf engines .. usually on southfield freeway i mean Mexico 😅🤣
Turbo Coyote would be amazing for the Mustang.
Guess it's time to upgrade to a 7/16 cam bolt and double pin the cam. Also need red loctite on bolt. I just had a similar failure except the woodruff key on my crank slid out.. no fun.
Was that capscrew bolt that was retaining the timing chain to the camshaft a grade 8 bolt? Doubtful that the pin sheared first. My guess is the bolt loosened and the pin shearing was secondary.
Cool 😎 video...keep living the dream ✨️