Thank you so much for this video. Not only did you save me from having to buy a new space heater (and throw out one with a simple problem), but the sense of accomplishment I feel for having fixed something with my own two hands is unreal.
Thank you so much. You were the only one I could find that explained that part thoroughly, and therefore saved me from throwing away a perfectly decent heater making it go to waste. And you saved me $20! Thank you so much again!!
This is a FANTASTIC video. Many thanks, Brian! I could get the heater working again. I could not get my switch to work; it looks like the spring was broken or I was not able to push it in the right notches. However, having understood the mechanism from this video, I padded the bottom of the pin a little with folded paper to short-circuit. I love that I do not have to throw away a fully working heater. Many thanks again!
Dude! I know this video is 3 years old, but I assume I am the reason you uploaded it! My problem was slightly different... the plastic surrounding the screw hole in the upper right of your sill image just seemed to come out of the mold a little thick... I did everything you said as if it were the bottom spring... I even bent the tabs out a smidge so they would seat well in their slot/hole. But then I shaved that plastic very slightly... like a millimeter or so... and it worked. I would not have thought to open or figure that out if not for this video.... so appreciate it!
@@BrianLeeDick Honestly, it feels best that there are genuinely helpful people out there! It was like doing surgery... my wife was super grateful... saved a few bucks... kept it out of the landfill, but I am not kidding... it was the helpful aspect that means the most. It is the way neighbors used to be.
My recent space heater wasn't turning on at all (must have gotten a lemon). I was about to toss it, but decided to search RUclips first. Well, your video gave my heater a new life and my pocket thanks you Brian!
This video is EXCEPTIONAL! Like many, I am a "hands ON" learner, but ALSO require a video, writing, picture form, braille (lol), -- the whole sha-BANG! This is a perfect instructional example including ALL OF THE ABOVE. I appreciate the pace and detail used to reassure the audience of just exactly what you're trying to accomplish; which is TO HELP US SOLVE A PROBLEM!👍🏽😇👏🏽
Thank you very much! The little copper spring had simply popped out. Popping it back in again fixed the problem! So much better than buying a new heater.
Thanks for this video, you helped me repair my heater. I swear, it couldn't find any videos or pictures about the inside of the switches, most videos are just people replacing it with a new one. THIS video is the kind of shit people need.
Sir you helped me so much ong, I have never worked with electronics and after tampering with it for 2 hours it finally started working idk how or why but thank you!!!!
That's great. Didn't it feel great to get electronics working again even without a lot of electronics background. You feel like a magician. Only caveat being if your fix also happens to be a "dangerous" fix and you didn't know it.. but these are fairly straightforward, so we long as the the knock over safety still works it should still be relatively safe.. these things are always a little inherently dangerous cause they get those heating coils so hot, you don't ever want a chance of something flammable touching them
You're the greatest! I didn't do this, but I bent off a tiny corner of copper off the tab and jammed it into the gap to complete the circuit. We will have to be careful it doesn't catch on fire by tipping over but that's ok!
Thank you !! Just fixed a new looking Kenmore heater I found in the dumpster and it was this exact problem. Those switches are fragile. Took some patience and a few tries, but I got it all back together.
Thanks Brian! I dared to open up the switch after watching your video. I thought it was all glued together and did not want to mess it up. I am glad and appreciate your effort sharing it with everyone. In my case, I had to straighten the thin copper spring as it turned into a ''C" shape facing up. Other thing I noticed inside the switch, the plastic had melted and blackened a little, although it did not affect the overall function.
I just bought a used one at a flea market. I got it dirt cheap but untested. It had the same problem with the tip-over button on the bottom. Fortunately that sensor was fine. It was just the broken actual plastic button. I just put a plastic thing in the hole and glued it with super glue. BUT now I gotta fix the rattling problem, when it's on, due to the fact that the genius who designed this heater put "leg" stands only on the front of the heater and not the back.Thankfully I'm sort of a handyman and I know I'll fix that problem too (probably by glueing some makeshift rear "leg" stands).
This helped greatly. My heater is working, thank God. It was satisfying to get this working. Thank you It stopped working again after one day, i guess its the same issue. Is there something i may be missing?
I have to say although I didn't fix it..I did get it working again..with the safety switch not working but I did make a connection in the heater. Thank you for the help.
2 screw drivers (the flat head to pop the case open), 2 q tips and a whisk broom. It was so dirty. I suspected that safety switch too. I fiddled with the assembly to get it in place and checked to see the obvious connectors were seated. 20 minutes. Thanks!
Dude, thanks for this video. Ultimately I had to buy the part in a %7 2-pak, but I learned a lot about the pressure switch I'd removed. No trigger spring, and trigger itself seemed a little warped. In any case, trigger wouldn't go out far enough to be pressed. Interesting little bit of technology, though.
Is the black plastic thing at @8:08 supposed to be its own seperate piece? On mine, its melted onto the metal piece above it. I'm guessing its not supposed to be like that? 😬
My copper piece-the final asymetrical piece is really hard to get into the slot once the other pieces are in. How do you curl it upwards so it stays in there to act as a conductor?
Wow, can’t believe there’s a video for this. I have a little “mainstays home” space heater (target brand?) it’s nothing special but it produces a surprising amount of heat for such a little guy and the tip over switch is the same way, it used to be a little loosey goosey but now it’s just rattling around. I think my issue may be in the mechanical activation of the switch and hopefully not the switch itself or switch guts but it’s nice to see how it works! Any chance of bypassing the switch by just tacking the input and output wires together?
definitely could do that, but then you lose the safety feature that if it tips over it won't shut off... not something i would ever do. not worth the risk
yikes... might be worth keeping a close eye on that... hard to tell if the component was the culprit or your getting too much current from an issue upstream and this would keep happening and be a fire hazard
there is definitely a way, I'm just not willing to do it, cause then if it falls over it's going to throw intense heat into whatever it lands on and i want nothing to do with that
Hmm... So somehow current is getting to light but not heating element.. sounds like a connector somewhere is loose and just needs to be tightened (not a switch type issue)
I'm not aware of an over heat shut off switch... just the tilt switch... over heat mechanism is probably a fuse if i had to guess.. which mine i don't think had it
For anyone who wants an even quicker fix, and how i fixed my heater in about 2.5 seconds after watching this video. The pressure switch is set horizonal inside the heater, on my heater i guess it was on the top near the knobs. I smacked it on the right side twice, and i heard a click, which im going to assume was the force/pressure from my slap pushing it back into place. I got it on the first try but ultimately their were only 3 other sides i would need to smack. So if you don't feel inclined to take it apart, smack it. It's a pressure switch and being knocked over is probably what knocked it out of place so hitting it again can knock it back into place if you hit it from the right direction.
Mine dosent have the safety switch but with mine the air keeps going hot and cold unless i keep settings on half and if it tips over and I pick it up it stays cold for a while untill I keep turning on and off and when I keep it tilted it works fine on full heat what can it be its lloytron brand
I believe I found a way to buy a pack of them for cheap when I found the part number on the piece itself... But it's been a while now so I don't remember
@@BrianLeeDick Yes, I had done so in the past, but miss placed them. The writing is too small to read on my current bad switch - even with a magnifying glass.
Dang this is cool but somehow I feel I rather spend 30 bucks then understand all this. I'm not rich but I guess we all make choices but thanks anyway for taking the time to do this for those that want to do it it will probably work I'm guessing!
hmmmm... wonder if you have a thermal circuit in it, and something is causing the wires to heat up and trip it... cause it's weird it works for a little bit before shutting off
dang... unfortunately that sounds like the heating element is crapping out.. that's not something I'd mess with personally and bite the bullet and get new one
The video is fine, I congratulate you on the topic. But! Well, it's definitely not a B+D product, it's Kanai industrial waste, it's a shame that B+D adds its name. A lot of them look like this or have variations on the design, but the inside is garbage, I've only had 5-6 different ones, but they all have the same problem. The contacts are enough, the microswitch against overturning does not work, it cannot handle the 1800-2000W level even in 10C cold, it overheats in good cooling conditions, if it is cleaned, if it is not covered, there is nothing near it, the air flows freely, the fan shaft runs well, it is oiled or siliconed. or, in the best case, it does not have plain bearings. The point is that it overheats, turns off for 5-10s, cools down, then turns on for 5-10s. Or the heat protection burns out, which cannot theoretically be replaced, so it's a waste. The fan blades quickly start rattling, their suspension is a joke. The 600W fan of the last mini version became bearingless after 4 months, so the cooling rate decreased, the 220V 10A 98 °C fuse melted. It is practically irreplaceable for the layman. The cable is short. ------------ Such a device should know +10 °C and continuous 1800-2000W performance, should be sized as such. There is a 26-year-old rack-and-pinion switch, but it has only just been used, after changing the switch, it can easily handle 1800W, where the others fall to their knees. If I replace the fan of the current mini version with a quality one, i.e. one with ball bearings, or with a magnetic one, and I change the heat protection, which burns out if it overheats, it protects itself and prevents a fire. Then I'll be there like a new price. But it doesn't destroy anything either, because it also breaks down very quickly. ------ I saw an Indian video, the electrician only repaired such things, in a terrible quantity. There was one that was the fault of the user, he got so much dust and garbage that he didn't even have a chance to cool himself. This is typical under-planning, you can change it for 6 months, max. 1 year, because it's garbage, we manufacture the garbage, or have it manufactured. I'm sad because 70% of people can't fix it, if it's a service, the repair is so expensive than a new one. More good content uploads, patience! Sorry if I was a lot!
And when you bypass the tilt switch, you go to bed, and the cat knocks the fan over, and the fan catches fire and you die, your problem is solved! Come on, people! Figure out how to fix the switch in a way that keeps these little death trap fans safe! The limiting factor is the micro switch that must be of a high amperage (about 20 amps for 120 volt AC for my fan). Maybe you could find a micro switch with a long lever that you could bend to go through the hole.
it is a little confusing for a person who never ever did something like that to understand based on a DRAWING ....i freaked out a little and bought a new one... my question is.....WHY NOT FILM THE WHOLE PROCESS???????? WHY THE DRAWING?????? congRalutations that you fixed it because YOU KNOW HOW TO.... but if it is supposed to be a helping video for those who CAN NOT with ABSOLUTE NO EXPERIENCE then WHY ONLY DRAWING??????????? Sorry i am freaking out actually...not the worst video in my life, thaks for that...
I also had no experience fixing these things. I could not film the little pieces, you wouldn't have been able to see anything with hands in the way. The picture was the closest proxy to showing you the actual thing.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you so much for this video. Not only did you save me from having to buy a new space heater (and throw out one with a simple problem), but the sense of accomplishment I feel for having fixed something with my own two hands is unreal.
I know exactly what you mean
Thank you so much. You were the only one I could find that explained that part thoroughly, and therefore saved me from throwing away a perfectly decent heater making it go to waste. And you saved me $20! Thank you so much again!!
Glad you saved it
Glad you saved it
What! I just did exactly what you told me to do and wa-la! It’s working again! That feeling that you get when you fix something yourself! Thank you.
great!!
yup..makes you feel good.
This is a FANTASTIC video. Many thanks, Brian! I could get the heater working again.
I could not get my switch to work; it looks like the spring was broken or I was not able to push it in the right notches. However, having understood the mechanism from this video, I padded the bottom of the pin a little with folded paper to short-circuit. I love that I do not have to throw away a fully working heater. Many thanks again!
Yup, feels good keeping stuff out of the dumpster
Dude! I know this video is 3 years old, but I assume I am the reason you uploaded it! My problem was slightly different... the plastic surrounding the screw hole in the upper right of your sill image just seemed to come out of the mold a little thick... I did everything you said as if it were the bottom spring... I even bent the tabs out a smidge so they would seat well in their slot/hole. But then I shaved that plastic very slightly... like a millimeter or so... and it worked. I would not have thought to open or figure that out if not for this video.... so appreciate it!
So awesome.. doesn't it feel good not having to throw it away?
@@BrianLeeDick Honestly, it feels best that there are genuinely helpful people out there! It was like doing surgery... my wife was super grateful... saved a few bucks... kept it out of the landfill, but I am not kidding... it was the helpful aspect that means the most. It is the way neighbors used to be.
My recent space heater wasn't turning on at all (must have gotten a lemon). I was about to toss it, but decided to search RUclips first. Well, your video gave my heater a new life and my pocket thanks you Brian!
You're welcome!
This video is EXCEPTIONAL! Like many, I am a "hands ON" learner, but ALSO require a video, writing, picture form, braille (lol), -- the whole sha-BANG! This is a perfect instructional example including ALL OF THE ABOVE. I appreciate the pace and detail used to reassure the audience of just exactly what you're trying to accomplish; which is TO HELP US SOLVE A PROBLEM!👍🏽😇👏🏽
oh thanks for that. glad it helped you out!
Thank you very much! The little copper spring had simply popped out. Popping it back in again fixed the problem! So much better than buying a new heater.
Yeah.. love fixing stuff than just throwing away and buying again even if they're cheap
What! I just did exactly what she told me to do and it is working now! Wala! The feeling you get when you fix something yourself! Thank you!
yeah it's pretty rewarding to get something to work again and not have to throw something away that just needed a tiny fix
Thanks for this video, you helped me repair my heater.
I swear, it couldn't find any videos or pictures about the inside of the switches, most videos are just people replacing it with a new one. THIS video is the kind of shit people need.
glad it helped ya!
Sir you helped me so much ong, I have never worked with electronics and after tampering with it for 2 hours it finally started working idk how or why but thank you!!!!
That's great. Didn't it feel great to get electronics working again even without a lot of electronics background. You feel like a magician. Only caveat being if your fix also happens to be a "dangerous" fix and you didn't know it.. but these are fairly straightforward, so we long as the the knock over safety still works it should still be relatively safe.. these things are always a little inherently dangerous cause they get those heating coils so hot, you don't ever want a chance of something flammable touching them
You're the greatest! I didn't do this, but I bent off a tiny corner of copper off the tab and jammed it into the gap to complete the circuit. We will have to be careful it doesn't catch on fire by tipping over but that's ok!
Yup.. definitely have to make sure it's on a hard surface with no chance to trip on the cord if you disabled the tip feature
Thanks for the tip. My switch had a similar spring, although the rest of it was different. This got it running again.
Thank you !! Just fixed a new looking Kenmore heater I found in the dumpster and it was this exact problem. Those switches are fragile. Took some patience and a few tries, but I got it all back together.
cool, love keeping stuff from getting thrown away
Thanks Brian! I dared to open up the switch after watching your video. I thought it was all glued together and did not want to mess it up. I am glad and appreciate your effort sharing it with everyone. In my case, I had to straighten the thin copper spring as it turned into a ''C" shape facing up. Other thing I noticed inside the switch, the plastic had melted and blackened a little, although it did not affect the overall function.
i definitely would keep an eye on it if the switch was getting hot enough to melt plastic... wouldn't leave it in a room you weren't in/awake
Warm and cosy again ;) No waste and more knowledge! Thanks Brian!
Great save!
I just bought a used one at a flea market. I got it dirt cheap but untested. It had the same problem with the tip-over button on the bottom. Fortunately that sensor was fine. It was just the broken actual plastic button. I just put a plastic thing in the hole and glued it with super glue. BUT now I gotta fix the rattling problem, when it's on, due to the fact that the genius who designed this heater put "leg" stands only on the front of the heater and not the back.Thankfully I'm sort of a handyman and I know I'll fix that problem too (probably by glueing some makeshift rear "leg" stands).
Sweet
This helped greatly. My heater is working, thank God. It was satisfying to get this working. Thank you
It stopped working again after one day, i guess its the same issue. Is there something i may be missing?
I have to say although I didn't fix it..I did get it working again..with the safety switch not working but I did make a connection in the heater. Thank you for the help.
oh cool well glad you didn't need to get a new one
Thanks mate. Your video has helped me fix my little heater.
One less heater thrown away for minor issues... Great!!
2 screw drivers (the flat head to pop the case open), 2 q tips and a whisk broom. It was so dirty. I suspected that safety switch too. I fiddled with the assembly to get it in place and checked to see the obvious connectors were seated. 20 minutes. Thanks!
Nice fix
Dude, thanks for this video. Ultimately I had to buy the part in a %7 2-pak, but I learned a lot about the pressure switch I'd removed. No trigger spring, and trigger itself seemed a little warped. In any case, trigger wouldn't go out far enough to be pressed. Interesting little bit of technology, though.
yeah it's elegantly simple. I was surprised to see that's how it worked
Yaaaay! TY so much!... I fixed it myself because of this tutorial ❤
Great!
Is the black plastic thing at @8:08 supposed to be its own seperate piece?
On mine, its melted onto the metal piece above it. I'm guessing its not supposed to be like that? 😬
Doubtful... Melting sounds dangerous
Exactly what happened to mine, he said to put the plunger back in and im realizing they are melted together and not one piece…
My copper piece-the final asymetrical piece is really hard to get into the slot once the other pieces are in. How do you curl it upwards so it stays in there to act as a conductor?
Worked fixed my problem I just accidentally messed one of my wires up and now it doesn't turn on again but what u did worked
cool... glad it worked for you.. good thing you're not messing around with any bad wires.. that could get dangerous quick
Thank you! I fixed mine 😊
Great!
Wow, can’t believe there’s a video for this. I have a little “mainstays home” space heater (target brand?) it’s nothing special but it produces a surprising amount of heat for such a little guy and the tip over switch is the same way, it used to be a little loosey goosey but now it’s just rattling around. I think my issue may be in the mechanical activation of the switch and hopefully not the switch itself or switch guts but it’s nice to see how it works! Any chance of bypassing the switch by just tacking the input and output wires together?
definitely could do that, but then you lose the safety feature that if it tips over it won't shut off... not something i would ever do. not worth the risk
Thx, that helped me a lot, except that the plunger on mine was actually melted to the "Nike" swoosh
yikes... might be worth keeping a close eye on that... hard to tell if the component was the culprit or your getting too much current from an issue upstream and this would keep happening and be a fire hazard
Can I just plug the negative and positive to the spade connector and tape together with electric trape?
if you did that it wouldn't have a safety switch to turn it off if it fell over
Is there a way if the spring does not work to put it directly so when u plug it it works without that bottom switch?
there is definitely a way, I'm just not willing to do it, cause then if it falls over it's going to throw intense heat into whatever it lands on and i want nothing to do with that
Omg THANK YOU!! This worked perfectly!
great!
I have this heater and the light turns on it just picks and chooses when to heat. Like the light will be on but it won’t be heated.
Hmm... So somehow current is getting to light but not heating element.. sounds like a connector somewhere is loose and just needs to be tightened (not a switch type issue)
Where is the exact auto settings on the heater?
Not sure I understand the question sorry
So this isn’t the overheat shut off switch then ? Where’s that located in my cheap space heater ?
I'm not aware of an over heat shut off switch... just the tilt switch... over heat mechanism is probably a fuse if i had to guess.. which mine i don't think had it
Thorough! a good job
glad it helped
For anyone who wants an even quicker fix, and how i fixed my heater in about 2.5 seconds after watching this video.
The pressure switch is set horizonal inside the heater, on my heater i guess it was on the top near the knobs. I smacked it on the right side twice, and i heard a click, which im going to assume was the force/pressure from my slap pushing it back into place. I got it on the first try but ultimately their were only 3 other sides i would need to smack.
So if you don't feel inclined to take it apart, smack it. It's a pressure switch and being knocked over is probably what knocked it out of place so hitting it again can knock it back into place if you hit it from the right direction.
This worked for me temporarily and then I got to the point where I made the video
Mine dosent have the safety switch but with mine the air keeps going hot and cold unless i keep settings on half and if it tips over and I pick it up it stays cold for a while untill I keep turning on and off and when I keep it tilted it works fine on full heat what can it be its lloytron brand
wow we way whoa ... those symptoms are odd i can't come up with an idea at all
Thank you it worked
great!
Can you just buy the switch?
I believe I found a way to buy a pack of them for cheap when I found the part number on the piece itself... But it's been a while now so I don't remember
@@BrianLeeDick Yes, I had done so in the past, but miss placed them. The writing is too small to read on my current bad switch - even with a magnifying glass.
Dang this is cool but somehow I feel I rather spend 30 bucks then understand all this. I'm not rich but I guess we all make choices but thanks anyway for taking the time to do this for those that want to do it it will probably work I'm guessing!
yup, i get it
Thinking the same, but there's some joy when you actually fix something (speaking for myself only as I have rarely fixed anything, lol).
Mines come on fine but when i use heat setting 2 after a minute it turns off
hmmmm... wonder if you have a thermal circuit in it, and something is causing the wires to heat up and trip it... cause it's weird it works for a little bit before shutting off
@Brian i got it was the bimetallic strip is was clicking of far to early a slight adjustment and it works fine and cuts out when it should now
Thnx!
np
Mine isnt heating up :(
dang... unfortunately that sounds like the heating element is crapping out.. that's not something I'd mess with personally and bite the bullet and get new one
The video is fine, I congratulate you on the topic. But! Well, it's definitely not a B+D product, it's Kanai industrial waste, it's a shame that B+D adds its name. A lot of them look like this or have variations on the design, but the inside is garbage, I've only had 5-6 different ones, but they all have the same problem. The contacts are enough, the microswitch against overturning does not work, it cannot handle the 1800-2000W level even in 10C cold,
it overheats in good cooling conditions, if it is cleaned, if it is not covered, there is nothing near it, the air flows freely, the fan shaft runs well, it is oiled or siliconed.
or, in the best case, it does not have plain bearings. The point is that it overheats, turns off for 5-10s, cools down, then turns on for 5-10s. Or the heat protection burns out, which cannot theoretically be replaced, so it's a waste. The fan blades quickly start rattling, their suspension is a joke. The 600W fan of the last mini version became bearingless after 4 months, so the cooling rate decreased, the 220V 10A 98 °C fuse melted. It is practically irreplaceable for the layman. The cable is short.
------------
Such a device should know +10 °C and continuous 1800-2000W
performance, should be sized as such. There is a 26-year-old rack-and-pinion switch, but it has only just been used, after changing the switch, it can easily handle 1800W, where the others fall to their knees.
If I replace the fan of the current mini version with a quality one, i.e. one with ball bearings, or with a magnetic one, and I change the heat protection, which burns out if it overheats, it protects itself and prevents a fire. Then I'll be there like a new price. But it doesn't destroy anything either, because it also breaks down very quickly.
------
I saw an Indian video, the electrician only repaired such things, in a terrible quantity. There was one that was the fault of the user, he got so much dust and garbage that he didn't even have a chance to cool himself.
This is typical under-planning, you can change it for 6 months, max. 1 year, because it's garbage, we manufacture the garbage, or have it manufactured.
I'm sad because 70% of people can't fix it, if it's a service, the repair is so expensive than a new one.
More good content uploads, patience! Sorry if I was a lot!
seems like a very common practice in appliances
@@BrianLeeDick Yes it is
you are a genius ahahahah
hope it helped
And when you bypass the tilt switch, you go to bed, and the cat knocks the fan over, and the fan catches fire and you die, your problem is solved! Come on, people! Figure out how to fix the switch in a way that keeps these little death trap fans safe! The limiting factor is the micro switch that must be of a high amperage (about 20 amps for 120 volt AC for my fan). Maybe you could find a micro switch with a long lever that you could bend to go through the hole.
This fix fixes the defective switch and makes it operational again. The defect is the metal contacts are all out of alignment within the switch body
Thanks on 2023
hopefully the technology hasn't evolved much in a year
... or you can go to Walmart and buy a new one for$20.
yup
it is a little confusing for a person who never ever did something like that to understand based on a DRAWING ....i freaked out a little and bought a new one... my question is.....WHY NOT FILM THE WHOLE PROCESS???????? WHY THE DRAWING?????? congRalutations that you fixed it because YOU KNOW HOW TO.... but if it is supposed to be a helping video for those who CAN NOT with ABSOLUTE NO EXPERIENCE then WHY ONLY DRAWING??????????? Sorry i am freaking out actually...not the worst video in my life, thaks for that...
I also had no experience fixing these things. I could not film the little pieces, you wouldn't have been able to see anything with hands in the way. The picture was the closest proxy to showing you the actual thing.