I quite like these oil filed space heaters, even though they are all defective by design. They are really 600 watt heaters pretending to be 1500 watt heaters.
*Install was easy **fireplace.homes** good although I personally had some difficulty with the thermostat I had. Issue was mine though, not realizing that electric heaters couldn't use oil thermostats. Tip: If you are using an external thermostat, run the power to the thermostat, not the unit. Once that was squared away it worked great.*
Doubt you'll read this, but this helped immensely. I had been using the 900 watt setting on my space heater and it seemed like my room was constantly cold. When you posted this video, and showed the thermal cutoff being on the high side, I started using the 600 watt setting. Now my room is MUCH more comfortable. Thank you!
Mine was getting power but not heating. Older than the model you have. I took it apart and checked for damaged connections. Found nothing but it was a little dirty. I cleaned out the debris off connections and wiped it out with a dry paper towel. Turned to the lowest setting and lo and behold it started working! Thanks!💕🙏💕🙏😎
Those screws are called Tri-Wing, or (camel-case) TriWing, or short TW and it was invented by *drumroll* the Phillips Screw Company, so you have been replacing Phillips screws with Phillips screws.
This is really useful content. Having to move to narrow oil filled from wide convector as landlord didn't like where I mounted it(on a door the rooms are tiny and wall space is scarse ) Looks like I'm going to have to do something with the thermostat as it practically cold before returning the power. I also happen to have an external thermostat which I could put inline with the power cord . The idea of doing a factory delete on the safety override is tempting, or at least remove a screw and bend it a bit so it's not directly touching the metal. I really do prefer convectors but I'm stuck in a corner here.
I've been using these for years. Great Video. I normally run a fan through them in very cold rooms. No issues. This year two have failed in a home that is very warm. I read the comments and tHanks to other people's experiences I plan to just use the low settings in a warm home, and switch to Turbo Nuclear in cold houses.
John who? I ask because I only want youtubers like Matthias in my subscribed list. Yet, Matthias (and I guess Big Clive+Great Scott to a small degree) is the only one.
Thanks. I have always used the low setting on mine. If I need quick heat, I place a Lifesmart Infrared Heater a meter behind it and let the fan blow through the fins.
I use one of these in our nursery. I like that the surface never gets hot enough to burn. With the cheaper wire style heaters i was always worried my kids would find a way to get a hand through the guard, or stick something flammable through.
Watching this video was helpful and showed the unit I found out for trash a year ago [resettable fuse was tripped] was wired backward. Mode I [low power] was connected in-line with the thermal cutoff while Mode II [medium power] had no temperature regulation other than the temperature setting dial. As a result, using Mode II (or both for a Mode III/high power) caused the resettable fuse to consistently trip at varying time frames depending on the temperature dial setting. Unit is a Kenmore oil heater and may be worthwhile to check if someone reading this has one with similar issues.
I just installed a hybrid water heater. These pull heat out of the air and dump it into the water at about a 3/1 energy ratio. In Georgia, we need cooling and dehumidification about 8 months out of the year, so it makes perfect sense to put one of these in the basement. But if you're more concerned about heating your home than cooling it, they don't save energy in a setup like yours since you're buying the electricity to resistively convert directly to heat.
I bought a 2500W one without being aware of this issue. I "fixed" it by buying the same kind of thermostat like you did, but mine was 110C and I bumped it up to 145C, and changed the thermal fuse from 133C to 165C. I know this is more on the dangerous side of things, but having looked at all the components inside they all seemed to be rated well above 165C, and I only use this while I'm in the same room with it, so I think it'll be fine. I'm even considering another +20C for the upcoming winter since the mineral oil they have inside can go well above 200C.
I use a small space heater like that to heat my son's room, he's a little over 18 mo now and he needs the room a lot warmer at night than my wife and I like, and since our house is zoned really poorly (in a way that wouldn't be cost effective to fix just yet), I'd have to heat practically the whole house just to heat his room. Electricity is extremely cheap where I am, so I could feasibly heat the whole house with electric heat.
I've put together a lot of Canadian shower doors, and they use mostly philips. Every once in a while you'll see square #2. But Internet folk love to pretend like in Canada everything's Square drive, and that no one else on the planet has ever heard of it before.
Those are security screws, chosen to keep homeowners out. By the way, they're call "tri-wing" - useless information if there ever was any. Manufacturers would never use any kind of normal screw for that, no matter what "normal" is where you live.
@@paulkolodner2445 Quite the contrary, knowing the name is very usefulf for finding a set of the screwdrivers to buy. Still, it's better to just buy any random set of "security" bits.
On mine (1500W), the over-heat thermostat is fine, but the high-watt switch contacts burned through. Lots of carbon bits. I removed all the wiring to the high-W element, and just use the low side. Takes longer to heat the area, but it's fine.
We do the same, just set it on the lowest setting and have it turned down so it only kicks in if its particularly cold (we have wood heating, so it usually kicks on a little before sunrise when the coals are starting to diminish.)
I have one of those 3 stage oil heaters, I keep it on the 3 setting all the time and turn the thermostat up halfway or a bit over half. Never had a problem with the overheat sensor. It is a Feature Comforts brand here in the US.
A friend of mine burned her house down with one of these. It leaked some oil and the switch shorted and ignited the oil. Her boss - who owned the local Home Hardware - chopped off the power cords on every one he had in stock and stopped carrying them.
I was smelling something strange, maybe fire smoke coming in. Woodheat is used by many here in winter. Well I was getting sick so I unplugged oil heater and started it back up at night. The smell was coming from heater, it's toast! I do not recommened repairing. It did it's job for 5 years and not worth causing a fire!
It's not a design flaw. The 2-3 settings are for heating the radiator as well as the room a little faster than the 1 setting. The 3 setting only run for an hour. 2 setting 2 hours. Once the room is warmed up go to the 1 setting and set the thermostat in the middle. A lot of people tend to leave the radiator on the 2-3 with the thermostat all the way up. The unit will overheat and the shutoff will trip and fail eventually.
Had one of these (about twice the size) when I was a kid, leaked oil a few times but don't remember seeing this problem, maybe the lawyers made them change it.
Great information. I have a delonghi with toggle switches that light up when they are on. I have noticed that the heater is no longer getting very hot, even with both switches on. Do they wear out or something that would cause them to work but stop getting quality hot?
5:49 Excellent observation, and another reason for these cheap efficient, versatile heaters is that they are CHEAP as heck to replace if need be, don't have to fool with those high $$ repair costs in equipment & labor as the complete home setups
I recently invested in the Wiha Kraftform Kompakt 62, a Screwdriver with a set of long bits that cover anything from Standard Philips Head all the way to security hex, torx and also tri and quad wing. At around 70€ quite the investment but to me its worth it. No more "oh god I hope this screwdriver will fit somehow" and much more "OMG I've never been able to tighten a PH1 screw without pressing on the back of the screwdriver before".
I just had to take my dryer apart and it had identical sensor for regulating lower heat settings. I don't think they're really "over protection" sensors. I think they're just used as a means to regulate temperature
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Relying on convection alone takes far longer to heat the space to a comfortable level. Most of that energy is going into heating the top 1/3rd of the space. By forcing the air to circulate in the room more of that energy is going into the air the occupants actually inhabit. So for the sake of efficiency that heat lose due to a more homogenous temperature would be paid back. I only have to run the heater for 10-20 minutes before using the space instead of 60-90.
I built my new house last year. When it came time to decide on a boiler to for my hydronic floor heating I settle on electric. At less than 10 cents a kWh it was the cheapest.
And here I am using my AMD FX computer as my heater. May as well get work done with the heat produced. Seriously, though, in my office I very rarely need to use the actual heater. Between the computer, stereo, and 5 monitors connected to said computer there is plenty of heat. While a bit of a problem normally due to energy consumption,crunching data is a great way to get more for your money with electric heat.
Toss in a bitcoin mining system or two and BBQ lunch and dinner and make the hot beverages of your choice, or start a sideline blacksmithing or forging (though wood based Matthias must forgo the latter pursuits).
I have now done my measurements over 36 hours and my heater does indeed appear to run on high indefinitely, a steady full-amperage draw and a steady high surface temperature--maintained the figures in my earlier comment.
You could also try swapping the overheat switch with a suitable PTC and wire that in series with the whole unit. That way the temperature will never exceed the trip-over temperature of the ptc, as the current decreases with temperature. The different power setting would then only control how fast the room heats up.
Well, you have just about discovered the perfect rat's nest of annoyances: 1. Those damn screws. I had to buy a set of tri-wing drivers to fix an iron. I still had to crack it open after the screws were removed, only to discover that the bad part was sealed up inside ultrasonically-welded joints. 2. You can't use cheaper power because it will never pay for itself. I wonder what the economics looked like when the house was first constructed. The builders probably made the wrong choice out of stupidity. 3. What idiots design a heater that trips itself off under normal use? Apparently, there were two of them, cuz you have two different units there. The useless switch probably increased the price, too.
When they built the neighbourhood, oil was probably the best choice, cause that's what they put in all the houses. I imagine electricity was relatively more expensive, and it was pre oil crisis, when they even used oil to make electricity
over in the uk we have Storage heaters, which are electric radiators that have a large battery inside them and only charge at night when their is a low rate. consider getting some of these if you have a variable cost/kwh
Do you remember the old storage heaters, still installed in many Georgian houses? They contained a brick which would heat up at night using cheaper-rate electricity and slowly release that heat during the day as the brick cooled. I wonder if they're still a thing.
I have a Holmes HOH2400 that says made in Italy. The dual rocker switch that allows you to select either or both to total 1500 watts, only works on the lower setting. The 2nd illuminated switch immediately cuts off when selected but even at half power it heats much more than electrics do. I am trying to find a source for that dual switch. I have a single 3 blade switch but they are combined. That model isn't even on Holmes website?
Thank you. Can you advise please. My friend brought a challenge radiator for repair. I replaced the open 15 amp internal fuse and switched on but with bang and tripped a cct which was easily switched on. internal fuses ok. Thermo you show reads short. Is this issue. Please advise. Thank you Lewis uk
Split system "INVERTER" air conditioners are really cheap and have ~300% efficiency while heating. In Romania they cost around 300USD/unit (12000BTU). That being said, I use a simple, cheap fan heater, when I need instant heat. It cost like 9USD and has two levels: 1000W and 2000W.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 New units have a new refrigerant mixture, so they work even at -15C ... the resisitive heating element kicks in at -20-25C 👍 More expensive air conditioners can function even around -30C ambient, without switching on resistive heating .
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 a geothermal heat pump could replace your existing furnace and deliver heating to the entire house. But it will be a big capital investment, payback time will probably be in range of 8-15 years, depending on a lot of factors.
Interesting. The DeLonghi brand one I use for boost heat at one end of the house has 2 toggle switches, basically "low" and "medium". For normal use, they say to turn on both for initial warm-up and switch off the "medium" switch and use just the low power mode for maintenance heat. We don't have to turn it up very high, though -- anything over 2 or 3 (continuously variable but with numbered marks) gets too warm. We use the ceiling fan in reverse mode to circulate the warm air.
My old (circa 2005) DeLonghi worked great. Scorched the plug, so I bought a replacement heater (and outlet). The replacement sucks. I did some tests with a thermometer, and they were inconclusive. I got a Kill-a-Watt power meter to measure the power and current. The replacement is just like in this video. It runs 1500W until it heats up. Then the thermal switch kills element number 1 and it runs at 900W the rest of the time. I repaired the DeLonghi with a new 14/3 wire and added a ground. Works great again. "Old Faithful" I call her now.
Hi, I appreciate your video. Can you explain why you think the overheat thermostats aren’t designed for frequent use? Do kettles not work in this way. Thanks
These things are crazy! Back when I did my compulsary half year of military service I was a guard. In the winter we had one of those in the little guard-house at the entrance to the caserne. When coming inside, after standing in the snow outside, I would rest my feet on one of those heaters and the snow would fall down from my boots and evaporate instantly. This thing was hot as hell! :D
The original KSD301 is 125v 16A 150, all the replacement on ebay and Amazon is 250v 10A (choice of NO or NC), what should I order? NO or NC, is that 150 Celcius? thanks.
Hi there, What a coincidence, I started fixing my little oil heater a few days ago. The thermal fuse went. I replaced it and the neon light came on briefly, then went out again. There is still continuity through the thermal fuse. I will need to investigate further as had to stop and go out on an emergency plumbing job. Any ideas?
I bought one of these "eco/600/900/1200" oil-filed heaters and it just died after two years of use. I used it on all levels previously. I just bought a new one. If I only use it on 600 (per your suggestion,), do you think it might last longer? Whatever the case, I have no reason to leave it running all the time. I normally turn it off for at least 8-10 hours (during the night). Thanks.
Hi Mathias, I am Luis Pereira from Spain, I really like your videos and that engeneering point of view of everything. I have think a lot about heating and keepeng the heat inside the house, i think isolating is the best way to warm a house. maybe you could thought a way to test how well isolated is a house. tranks in advance
I have an identical small heater and I've not noticed a problem like that. I have a similar large one as well. I suspect we both shop at Canadian Tire. The large one draws so much current that the 16 gauge power cord gets hot. I was thinking of swapping it out. I also wanted to comment on heating costs. I use wood pellets but the price has gone up such that they are at the same cost per BTU or watt. There is a factor of locality with heat. I don't need my basement as warm as my living room. So I use the more expensive natural gas for the first 17 degrees and then electric or wood pellets if I want to be warmer than that. But I too have done the math to show that electricity is the cheapest heat these days. I do find that prices vary, and it's nice to be able to choose the energy source that's least costly in a given year.
Not trying to troll you, but . . . doesn't it make sense to use the cheapest energy for the first X degrees, and then the more flexible but expensive forms to handle the peaks?
UK here, I've got a very similar heater (they're all basically the same just cosmetic differences) and I have this exact issue. I'll swap out the thermostat I reckon.
I would live to fix my MaxiHeat 1500w oil heater. I've always used it on the lowest setting but recently it still stopped working. Where can I get these parts to fix and what exactly are they called? Thank you
i think it also depends how hot the room is, as in a building which is at 10 degrees will cool the heater alot more than a building at 20 ( Celsius) i guess thats why they have a lower temperature cutoff
Yeah I was gonna say, it's probably designed to be the *only* heater in the house. If it's trying to heat up a good-sized room with no help and it's super cold out, those higher settings probably make more sense.
I replaced the thermal switch with manual reset and the oil heater works but I don’t remember the power led lighting up as soon as I plug it in. I remember lighting up when I set selector to low or other settings from off position. Is there something else that needs finding or is that normal?
What would cause a almost brand new units selector switch not to turn. The unit was purchased in November and its January 21st now so almost new. We used only the Low and Medium Setting. But yesterday it locked up on the Low Setting and will not turn. Amazon is sending a replacement but I am curious as to why??? Many Thanks
Had a few of these years ago and they worked great,dont remember the brand. they just worked so much better than the other types available. However recently ran across a few of the older very decorative water radiators for home heating an considered converting them into individual oil space heaters. but have been unable to find anything about this anywhere. I do quite a bit of repurposing of all sorts. and about the only thing i have found for these is putting a glass table top on it,in the middle of the dinning room. because that's as far as someone was able to move it. any links, thoughts or ideas would be extremely helpful. thanks
I had a relative in Iowa that heated his entire house using a hot water heater and pumping it through a radiator amd hooking it to his existing ducts. Worked great. You could do the same but pump the hot water through your newly obtained radiators.
@@engineer439 I think what Matthias is trying to say is: these heaters aren't the most efficient heaters, but he really doesn't want a fan, which is why he chose these heaters instead of ones that do have a fan.
In a way your last comments are one of the great lessons we learned as expats. Only in North America do we insist on heating the entire building envelope. In Asia we had a 1000 sq ft apartment and we had heat control in each room which was off most of the time. We only heated or cooled where were were. Our conference rooms at the office were only temperature controlled when occupied, hallways, elevators etc were not controlled (i.e. heated or cooled). Baseboard electric with some intelligence on the part of the owner or other zoned systems might actually be the most energy efficient (or lowest carbon footprint if you prefer).
There is a bit more to it than just heat and cost. If you dont heat a room and dont make it kind of air/draft tight you can get water condensation on windows, wall corners etc. This may cause mold and further problems. Im not sure what are the prices where Matthias lives but in manitoba gas is kind of cheap. usually month of heating is around 120-150CAD with -20 to -30 temperatures outside. That is not really bad.
Cool story bro. Asia is a horrible place to live with little value being place on human life. I think I’ll listen to my people first and not the people that continue to insist on killing the planet.
Perhaps you should test and try one of those brazillian element water heaters for giving you that extra oomph factor while you shower. Some call them "death showers" as they use a resistive element to heat water around them, but if you take some time and properly ground it, they represent really virtually no risk. They're branded "Lorenzetti" and mostly available online, although, I believe they are cheaper where I currently live in.
Because you need to be able to set it to "1", otherwise you end up killing the overheat protection thermostat eventually. Also, better 600 watt continuous than 1500 watt intermittent.
@@chaklee435 exactly my thoughts. Is this a compromise because the casing is some sort of plastic, and couldn't accept any higher temp? I genuinely don't see the point of anything m ore powerful than the lowest power setting. In my case, I purchased a 3kw unit (in the UK, so 240v) but it can only run at 3kw for about 5 minutes, then it's either 1kw or nothing. I don't even think it would be prudent to swap the cutout for a higher temp, as even if I doubled the cutout temp rating, right next to the element, it's bound to be tripped long before the room is up to temp.
Can the thermal fuse be changed (white casing around it)
4 года назад+3
I guess the higher settings are useful if you are trying to heat a very cold room. Or if you have a fan blowing across the heater (yeah, a cooling fan for a heater).
I don't even know if you'd need a fan blowing across the heater, but even one in front of it to pull the excess hot air away. I'm not a physics professor though, so someone smarter could probably let us know if there's even a difference.
I wonder if putting a arduino to monitor temps and to modulate the heaters intelligently would be better than a literal dead on/off switch. I see no provision for sending less volts through the heating elements... But simple "on for 1 minute off for 2 minutes" might allow the temperature to be dialed in more accurately.
I don't have any of this electrical equipment to repair my Pelonis heater. Will the company take some accountability for the heater's design flaws and provide a working model in exchange for the faulty model? I won't make it through the winter without it.
I don't think they have a lot of hydro in the maritimes though do they? Maybe 20% at best www.cer-rec.gc.ca/nrg/sttstc/lctrct/rprt/2017cndrnwblpwr/prvnc/nb-eng.html?=undefined&wbdisable=true
If you put a cardboard chimney on top, would it not draw more air though the fins via the stack effect allowing you to get more power out of the heater? You could design it so that it covers the back so it draws air transferse though the fins too
Do you think it might be worth it to have a fan blow some air over the heater? Mainly as an attempt to get the fluid temperature down a bit to keep the overheat protection from tripping on settings 2 or 3.
I have one of these to a wifi electricity switch and time precisely on and off, it has worked wonders for me, very budget-friendly option for instant heat, just plug and play.
My new Warmlite oil filled radiator keep tripping after about 10 minutes even on lowest settings and doesn't warm the room properly would changing this thermostat would solve the issue?
Хобби
*Install was easy **fireplace.homes** good although I personally had some difficulty with the thermostat I had. Issue was mine though, not realizing that electric heaters couldn't use oil thermostats. Tip: If you are using an external thermostat, run the power to the thermostat, not the unit. Once that was squared away it worked great.*
Doubt you'll read this, but this helped immensely. I had been using the 900 watt setting on my space heater and it seemed like my room was constantly cold. When you posted this video, and showed the thermal cutoff being on the high side, I started using the 600 watt setting. Now my room is MUCH more comfortable. Thank you!
I read this .....2022 Happy Valentine's Day!
Mine was getting power but not heating. Older than the model you have. I took it apart and checked for damaged connections. Found nothing but it was a little dirty. I cleaned out the debris off connections and wiped it out with a dry paper towel. Turned to the lowest setting and lo and behold it started working! Thanks!💕🙏💕🙏😎
I have found that just putting a small oscillating fan behind the heater spreads the heat out better, and keeps it from overheating.
if I was wiling to have a fan, why not use heater that already has a fan built in?
Reminds me of the old saying that goes.like this. Wood warms you again and again...., chopping, hauling, splitting, stacking and burning.
Matthias random stuff You got told, Matthias.
@Khaffit Matthias just got Matthias'd, folks.
Yonatan24 never forget this day!
My 100 year old kerosene heater & 200 year old wood stove both work great and have never failed.
How are your lungs doing?
he's dead
@@DavidTermini
Those screws are called Tri-Wing, or (camel-case) TriWing, or short TW and it was invented by *drumroll* the Phillips Screw Company, so you have been replacing Phillips screws with Phillips screws.
Not called phillips .
This is really useful content. Having to move to narrow oil filled from wide convector as landlord didn't like where I mounted it(on a door the rooms are tiny and wall space is scarse )
Looks like I'm going to have to do something with the thermostat as it practically cold before returning the power.
I also happen to have an external thermostat which I could put inline with the power cord .
The idea of doing a factory delete on the safety override is tempting, or at least remove a screw and bend it a bit so it's not directly touching the metal.
I really do prefer convectors but I'm stuck in a corner here.
I've been using these for years. Great Video. I normally run a fan through them in very cold rooms. No issues. This year two have failed in a home that is very warm. I read the comments and tHanks to other people's experiences I plan to just use the low settings in a warm home, and switch to Turbo Nuclear in cold houses.
Thanks for posting it is very supportive program.
Very appreciate your teaching!
Blessings
Don't tell John but you are my favorite youtuber. Always watch your videos even when I dont understand them. Keep 'em coming!
John who? I ask because I only want youtubers like Matthias in my subscribed list. Yet, Matthias (and I guess Big Clive+Great Scott to a small degree) is the only one.
Thanks. I have always used the low setting on mine. If I need quick heat, I place a Lifesmart Infrared Heater a meter behind it and let the fan blow through the fins.
Next video: redesign the space heater so that it follows you around and shoots buttons at you
Glad I found you and a fix for my heater. Thank you.
I use one of these in our nursery. I like that the surface never gets hot enough to burn. With the cheaper wire style heaters i was always worried my kids would find a way to get a hand through the guard, or stick something flammable through.
yes, that is another thing I like about them. Fairly safe around the kids.
Watching this video was helpful and showed the unit I found out for trash a year ago [resettable fuse was tripped] was wired backward. Mode I [low power] was connected in-line with the thermal cutoff while Mode II [medium power] had no temperature regulation other than the temperature setting dial. As a result, using Mode II (or both for a Mode III/high power) caused the resettable fuse to consistently trip at varying time frames depending on the temperature dial setting. Unit is a Kenmore oil heater and may be worthwhile to check if someone reading this has one with similar issues.
I just installed a hybrid water heater. These pull heat out of the air and dump it into the water at about a 3/1 energy ratio. In Georgia, we need cooling and dehumidification about 8 months out of the year, so it makes perfect sense to put one of these in the basement. But if you're more concerned about heating your home than cooling it, they don't save energy in a setup like yours since you're buying the electricity to resistively convert directly to heat.
Thank you very much for this very interesting and informative video presentation which is very much appreciated by the people.
I bought a 2500W one without being aware of this issue. I "fixed" it by buying the same kind of thermostat like you did, but mine was 110C and I bumped it up to 145C, and changed the thermal fuse from 133C to 165C. I know this is more on the dangerous side of things, but having looked at all the components inside they all seemed to be rated well above 165C, and I only use this while I'm in the same room with it, so I think it'll be fine. I'm even considering another +20C for the upcoming winter since the mineral oil they have inside can go well above 200C.
I love watching you analyze ordinary objects.
I use a small space heater like that to heat my son's room, he's a little over 18 mo now and he needs the room a lot warmer at night than my wife and I like, and since our house is zoned really poorly (in a way that wouldn't be cost effective to fix just yet), I'd have to heat practically the whole house just to heat his room. Electricity is extremely cheap where I am, so I could feasibly heat the whole house with electric heat.
thanks for identifying the internal parts , looking at converting one to run on 47volts DC from the solar panels
Well at least now I know what else is likely to go out on this damn thing. Great video thanks for posting!
Using Phillips screws? In canada? I didnt think that was allowed
He said more sensible, not the MOST sensible. Ha.
Meh, Robertson for bigger things for sure, but I'm happy enough with philips on this kinda thing. Hex or Torx are best
I've put together a lot of Canadian shower doors, and they use mostly philips. Every once in a while you'll see square #2. But Internet folk love to pretend like in Canada everything's Square drive, and that no one else on the planet has ever heard of it before.
Those are security screws, chosen to keep homeowners out. By the way, they're call "tri-wing" - useless information if there ever was any. Manufacturers would never use any kind of normal screw for that, no matter what "normal" is where you live.
@@paulkolodner2445 Quite the contrary, knowing the name is very usefulf for finding a set of the screwdrivers to buy. Still, it's better to just buy any random set of "security" bits.
On mine (1500W), the over-heat thermostat is fine, but the high-watt switch contacts burned through. Lots of carbon bits. I removed all the wiring to the high-W element, and just use the low side. Takes longer to heat the area, but it's fine.
We use a small one in our daughters room. They are so reliable
We do the same, just set it on the lowest setting and have it turned down so it only kicks in if its particularly cold (we have wood heating, so it usually kicks on a little before sunrise when the coals are starting to diminish.)
I have one of those 3 stage oil heaters, I keep it on the 3 setting all the time and turn the thermostat up halfway or a bit over half. Never had a problem with the overheat sensor. It is a Feature Comforts brand here in the US.
the way its designed is that you can't tell when the overheat sensor goes off. Therefore, you have "no problem".
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Nice. Thanks for the answer!
Very interesting, thanks Matthias
Thanks for the tip about using these at level 1
Brilliant thanks, couldn't figure out what was going on but this was the problem.
A friend of mine burned her house down with one of these. It leaked some oil and the switch shorted and ignited the oil. Her boss - who owned the local Home Hardware - chopped off the power cords on every one he had in stock and stopped carrying them.
I was smelling something strange, maybe fire smoke coming in. Woodheat is used by many here in winter. Well I was getting sick so I unplugged oil heater and started it back up at night. The smell was coming from heater, it's toast! I do not recommened repairing. It did it's job for 5 years and not worth causing a fire!
It's not a design flaw. The 2-3 settings are for heating the radiator as well as the room a little faster than the 1 setting. The 3 setting only run for an hour. 2 setting 2 hours. Once the room is warmed up go to the 1 setting and set the thermostat in the middle.
A lot of people tend to leave the radiator on the 2-3 with the thermostat all the way up.
The unit will overheat and the shutoff will trip and fail eventually.
Had one of these (about twice the size) when I was a kid, leaked oil a few times but don't remember seeing this problem, maybe the lawyers made them change it.
Great information. I have a delonghi with toggle switches that light up when they are on. I have noticed that the heater is no longer getting very hot, even with both switches on. Do they wear out or something that would cause them to work but stop getting quality hot?
5:49 Excellent observation, and another reason for these cheap efficient, versatile heaters is that they are CHEAP as heck to replace if need be, don't have to fool with those high $$ repair costs in equipment & labor as the complete home setups
I recently invested in the Wiha Kraftform Kompakt 62, a Screwdriver with a set of long bits that cover anything from Standard Philips Head all the way to security hex, torx and also tri and quad wing.
At around 70€ quite the investment but to me its worth it. No more "oh god I hope this screwdriver will fit somehow" and much more "OMG I've never been able to tighten a PH1 screw without pressing on the back of the screwdriver before".
if the screwdriver hadn't fit, I could have just dremeled a slot into the screw.
I just had to take my dryer apart and it had identical sensor for regulating lower heat settings. I don't think they're really "over protection" sensors. I think they're just used as a means to regulate temperature
Great video! Thanks for sharing❗❗❗ 🙂🙂🙂 👍👍👍
I love your video a lot! So informative ! Can you share the inside thermostat brand or specifications do I need? Thank you!
Using one of these in the garage in winter I've always put a box fan to pull air through. I've never had mine trip this way, even on max.
yes, but by blowing the air around like that, you end up making sure all the walls are nice and warm, so you lose a lot more heat.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Relying on convection alone takes far longer to heat the space to a comfortable level. Most of that energy is going into heating the top 1/3rd of the space. By forcing the air to circulate in the room more of that energy is going into the air the occupants actually inhabit. So for the sake of efficiency that heat lose due to a more homogenous temperature would be paid back. I only have to run the heater for 10-20 minutes before using the space instead of 60-90.
I built my new house last year. When it came time to decide on a boiler to for my hydronic floor heating I settle on electric. At less than 10 cents a kWh it was the cheapest.
And here I am using my AMD FX computer as my heater. May as well get work done with the heat produced. Seriously, though, in my office I very rarely need to use the actual heater. Between the computer, stereo, and 5 monitors connected to said computer there is plenty of heat.
While a bit of a problem normally due to energy consumption,crunching data is a great way to get more for your money with electric heat.
Toss in a bitcoin mining system or two and BBQ lunch and dinner and make the hot beverages of your choice, or start a sideline blacksmithing or forging (though wood based Matthias must forgo the latter pursuits).
my old watercool 9590 with 2 watercool 390x did a very good job has a heater and pc
I have now done my measurements over 36 hours and my heater does indeed appear to run on high indefinitely, a steady full-amperage draw and a steady high surface temperature--maintained the figures in my earlier comment.
Thanks. Where can you get limit switches?
any suggestions on what type of cord to buy to replace the old one. my cat chewed up the cord on my costway 1500w unit
You could also try swapping the overheat switch with a suitable PTC and wire that in series with the whole unit. That way the temperature will never exceed the trip-over temperature of the ptc, as the current decreases with temperature. The different power setting would then only control how fast the room heats up.
and half the power would go into the little PTC. These things are not suitable for this application.
I've never had these issues with similar types of heaters.
Well, you have just about discovered the perfect rat's nest of annoyances:
1. Those damn screws. I had to buy a set of tri-wing drivers to fix an iron. I still had to crack it open after the screws were removed, only to discover that the bad part was sealed up inside ultrasonically-welded joints.
2. You can't use cheaper power because it will never pay for itself. I wonder what the economics looked like when the house was first constructed. The builders probably made the wrong choice out of stupidity.
3. What idiots design a heater that trips itself off under normal use? Apparently, there were two of them, cuz you have two different units there. The useless switch probably increased the price, too.
When they built the neighbourhood, oil was probably the best choice, cause that's what they put in all the houses. I imagine electricity was relatively more expensive, and it was pre oil crisis, when they even used oil to make electricity
the high modes are intended for extremely cold ambient temps
This is helpful. I was wondering how you could even sell something like this but then I read your comment and was like ohhhhhhh. Duh.
over in the uk we have Storage heaters, which are electric radiators that have a large battery inside them and only charge at night when their is a low rate. consider getting some of these if you have a variable cost/kwh
That makes sense if you have variable pricing through the day. we don't have that here (yet)
Do you remember the old storage heaters, still installed in many Georgian houses? They contained a brick which would heat up at night using cheaper-rate electricity and slowly release that heat during the day as the brick cooled. I wonder if they're still a thing.
That looks exactly like mine..the first one. What was the part you replaced?
I have a Holmes HOH2400 that says made in Italy. The dual rocker switch that allows you to select either or both to total 1500 watts, only works on the lower setting. The 2nd illuminated switch immediately cuts off when selected but even at half power it heats much more than electrics do.
I am trying to find a source for that dual switch. I have a single 3 blade switch but they are combined. That model isn't even on Holmes website?
Thank you. Can you advise please. My friend brought a challenge radiator for repair. I replaced the open 15 amp internal fuse and switched on but with bang and tripped a cct which was easily switched on. internal fuses ok. Thermo you show reads short. Is this issue. Please advise. Thank you Lewis uk
Split system "INVERTER" air conditioners are really cheap and have ~300% efficiency while heating. In Romania they cost around 300USD/unit (12000BTU).
That being said, I use a simple, cheap fan heater, when I need instant heat. It cost like 9USD and has two levels: 1000W and 2000W.
Watch the video to the end. Only efficient when it's not cold outside. As in, only efficient when you don't really need it.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 New units have a new refrigerant mixture, so they work even at -15C ... the resisitive heating element kicks in at -20-25C 👍
More expensive air conditioners can function even around -30C ambient, without switching on resistive heating .
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 a geothermal heat pump could replace your existing furnace and deliver heating to the entire house. But it will be a big capital investment, payback time will probably be in range of 8-15 years, depending on a lot of factors.
Interesting. The DeLonghi brand one I use for boost heat at one end of the house has 2 toggle switches, basically "low" and "medium". For normal use, they say to turn on both for initial warm-up and switch off the "medium" switch and use just the low power mode for maintenance heat. We don't have to turn it up very high, though -- anything over 2 or 3 (continuously variable but with numbered marks) gets too warm. We use the ceiling fan in reverse mode to circulate the warm air.
I had one of them and it worked great.
My old (circa 2005) DeLonghi worked great. Scorched the plug, so I bought a replacement heater (and outlet). The replacement sucks. I did some tests with a thermometer, and they were inconclusive. I got a Kill-a-Watt power meter to measure the power and current. The replacement is just like in this video. It runs 1500W until it heats up. Then the thermal switch kills element number 1 and it runs at 900W the rest of the time.
I repaired the DeLonghi with a new 14/3 wire and added a ground. Works great again. "Old Faithful" I call her now.
What type of thermostat you used for oil heater is it normally open NO or normally closed NC
In a pinch, could i just bypass the thermal fuse and run on low?
Is the thermal switch NO or NC (normally open or normally closed)? Thanks!
what would happen if you bypassed the fuse and the overheat cutoff switch ?
Hi, I appreciate your video. Can you explain why you think the overheat thermostats aren’t designed for frequent use? Do kettles not work in this way. Thanks
These things are crazy! Back when I did my compulsary half year of military service I was a guard. In the winter we had one of those in the little guard-house at the entrance to the caserne. When coming inside, after standing in the snow outside, I would rest my feet on one of those heaters and the snow would fall down from my boots and evaporate instantly. This thing was hot as hell! :D
this one never gets too hot to touch. Which is great with kids around.
You are amazing !!
The original KSD301 is 125v 16A 150, all the replacement on ebay and Amazon is 250v 10A (choice of NO or NC), what should I order? NO or NC, is that 150 Celcius? thanks.
Hi there,
What a coincidence, I started fixing my little oil heater a few days ago. The thermal fuse went. I replaced it and the neon light came on briefly, then went out again. There is still continuity through the thermal fuse. I will need to investigate further as had to stop and go out on an emergency plumbing job.
Any ideas?
I bought one of these "eco/600/900/1200" oil-filed heaters and it just died after two years of use. I used it on all levels previously. I just bought a new one. If I only use it on 600 (per your suggestion,), do you think it might last longer? Whatever the case, I have no reason to leave it running all the time. I normally turn it off for at least 8-10 hours (during the night). Thanks.
Hi Mathias, I am Luis Pereira from Spain, I really like your videos and that engeneering point of view of everything. I have think a lot about heating and keepeng the heat inside the house, i think isolating is the best way to warm a house. maybe you could thought a way to test how well isolated is a house.
tranks in advance
Watch my video on measuring R values
What type of oil is used in the heater?
We have those same heater here in Norway
I have an identical small heater and I've not noticed a problem like that. I have a similar large one as well. I suspect we both shop at Canadian Tire. The large one draws so much current that the 16 gauge power cord gets hot. I was thinking of swapping it out. I also wanted to comment on heating costs. I use wood pellets but the price has gone up such that they are at the same cost per BTU or watt. There is a factor of locality with heat. I don't need my basement as warm as my living room. So I use the more expensive natural gas for the first 17 degrees and then electric or wood pellets if I want to be warmer than that. But I too have done the math to show that electricity is the cheapest heat these days. I do find that prices vary, and it's nice to be able to choose the energy source that's least costly in a given year.
Not trying to troll you, but . . . doesn't it make sense to use the cheapest energy for the first X degrees, and then the more flexible but expensive forms to handle the peaks?
UK here, I've got a very similar heater (they're all basically the same just cosmetic differences) and I have this exact issue. I'll swap out the thermostat I reckon.
Very helpful thank you!
Took my Cuori heater apart and found the power switch burnt on one of the connections. Where can I buy a replacement one online? Thanks.
I would live to fix my MaxiHeat 1500w oil heater. I've always used it on the lowest setting but recently it still stopped working. Where can I get these parts to fix and what exactly are they called? Thank you
i think it also depends how hot the room is, as in a building which is at 10 degrees will cool the heater alot more than a building at 20 ( Celsius) i guess thats why they have a lower temperature cutoff
Yeah I was gonna say, it's probably designed to be the *only* heater in the house. If it's trying to heat up a good-sized room with no help and it's super cold out, those higher settings probably make more sense.
I replaced the thermal switch with manual reset and the oil heater works but I don’t remember the power led lighting up as soon as I plug it in. I remember lighting up when I set selector to low or other settings from off position. Is there something else that needs finding or is that normal?
What would cause a almost brand new units selector switch not to turn. The unit was purchased in November and its January 21st now so almost new. We used only the Low and Medium Setting. But yesterday it locked up on the Low Setting and will not turn. Amazon is sending a replacement but I am curious as to why??? Many Thanks
Had a few of these years ago and they worked great,dont remember the brand. they just worked so much better than the other types available. However recently ran across a few of the older very decorative water radiators for home heating an considered converting them into individual oil space heaters. but have been unable to find anything about this anywhere. I do quite a bit of repurposing of all sorts. and about the only thing i have found for these is putting a glass table top on it,in the middle of the dinning room. because that's as far as someone was able to move it. any links, thoughts or ideas would be extremely helpful. thanks
I had a relative in Iowa that heated his entire house using a hot water heater and pumping it through a radiator amd hooking it to his existing ducts. Worked great. You could do the same but pump the hot water through your newly obtained radiators.
A slow fan really help on the high setting
If I was willing to put a fan there, why not just use a heater that has a fan built in?
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Because then you would have to buy a new heater, but you certainly already have a fan.
@@engineer439 at the same time adding a fan might not be possible depending on where this is installed.
Doesn't seem like he is on a budget either.
@@engineer439 I think what Matthias is trying to say is: these heaters aren't the most efficient heaters, but he really doesn't want a fan, which is why he chose these heaters instead of ones that do have a fan.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Soooooo many times the exact same question ...
What temperature sensor are you using? 1-Wire Digital Thermometers DS18B20 ?
In a way your last comments are one of the great lessons we learned as expats. Only in North America do we insist on heating the entire building envelope. In Asia we had a 1000 sq ft apartment and we had heat control in each room which was off most of the time. We only heated or cooled where were were. Our conference rooms at the office were only temperature controlled when occupied, hallways, elevators etc were not controlled (i.e. heated or cooled). Baseboard electric with some intelligence on the part of the owner or other zoned systems might actually be the most energy efficient (or lowest carbon footprint if you prefer).
There is a bit more to it than just heat and cost. If you dont heat a room and dont make it kind of air/draft tight you can get water condensation on windows, wall corners etc. This may cause mold and further problems.
Im not sure what are the prices where Matthias lives but in manitoba gas is kind of cheap. usually month of heating is around 120-150CAD with -20 to -30 temperatures outside.
That is not really bad.
Cool story bro. Asia is a horrible place to live with little value being place on human life. I think I’ll listen to my people first and not the people that continue to insist on killing the planet.
I heard there was a really good deal on WTI crude oil this Monday ;)
How do you fix it when they start to stink?
Perhaps you should test and try one of those brazillian element water heaters for giving you that extra oomph factor while you shower. Some call them "death showers" as they use a resistive element to heat water around them, but if you take some time and properly ground it, they represent really virtually no risk. They're branded "Lorenzetti" and mostly available online, although, I believe they are cheaper where I currently live in.
Those are used in Ireland and probably a lot of places besides Brasil.
yes, but a shiny fancy new gas heater would LOOK really COOL!
Why power control if it has a temperature setpoint control ????????
Because you need to be able to set it to "1", otherwise you end up killing the overheat protection thermostat eventually. Also, better 600 watt continuous than 1500 watt intermittent.
temperature sensor is right next to the heater anyways, so controlling that temperature doesn't really make sense.
@@chaklee435 exactly my thoughts.
Is this a compromise because the casing is some sort of plastic, and couldn't accept any higher temp?
I genuinely don't see the point of anything m ore powerful than the lowest power setting. In my case, I purchased a 3kw unit (in the UK, so 240v) but it can only run at 3kw for about 5 minutes, then it's either 1kw or nothing.
I don't even think it would be prudent to swap the cutout for a higher temp, as even if I doubled the cutout temp rating, right next to the element, it's bound to be tripped long before the room is up to temp.
Can the thermal fuse be changed (white casing around it)
I guess the higher settings are useful if you are trying to heat a very cold room. Or if you have a fan blowing across the heater (yeah, a cooling fan for a heater).
I don't even know if you'd need a fan blowing across the heater, but even one in front of it to pull the excess hot air away. I'm not a physics professor though, so someone smarter could probably let us know if there's even a difference.
@@timma_thy a small computer fan set higher and off to one side was enough to circulate the heat in a room 10 x 12
I wonder if putting a arduino to monitor temps and to modulate the heaters intelligently would be better than a literal dead on/off switch. I see no provision for sending less volts through the heating elements... But simple "on for 1 minute off for 2 minutes" might allow the temperature to be dialed in more accurately.
I don't have any of this electrical equipment to repair my Pelonis heater. Will the company take some accountability for the heater's design flaws and provide a working model in exchange for the faulty model? I won't make it through the winter without it.
Mine keeps tripping the house circuit breaker. I'm not using any more devices than I used to. What do you suppose is causing it?
How do you open. And remove front cover
Canada is mostly hydro so not an issue environmentally with electric heat. And I'm totally with you on the hatred of those stupid security screws.
I don't think they have a lot of hydro in the maritimes though do they? Maybe 20% at best www.cer-rec.gc.ca/nrg/sttstc/lctrct/rprt/2017cndrnwblpwr/prvnc/nb-eng.html?=undefined&wbdisable=true
Not all Canada, Quebec is tho :)
If you put a cardboard chimney on top, would it not draw more air though the fins via the stack effect allowing you to get more power out of the heater? You could design it so that it covers the back so it draws air transferse though the fins too
Possibly, but that would draw the heat to the ceiling, and no radiated heat, so overall, not a win.
Do you think it might be worth it to have a fan blow some air over the heater? Mainly as an attempt to get the fluid temperature down a bit to keep the overheat protection from tripping on settings 2 or 3.
That would definitely help. But if I'm going to have a fan, then I might as well get a heater that has a fan built in.
@@matthiasrandomstuff2221 Then build a low speed crossflow fan into it?
It should give low noise-level and big area of airflow.
A good used one of these are excellent in pigeon lofts.
Could i bypass any of those over protection sensors ?
Would you put the part number in for the overheat thermostat for me thanks and approximate cost.
Can you tell me the part that you ordered from Aliexpress. Was it a KSD 301 temperature sensor?
I have one of these to a wifi electricity switch and time precisely on and off, it has worked wonders for me, very budget-friendly option for instant heat, just plug and play.
Many thanks 👍
Thank You very much
My new Warmlite oil filled radiator keep tripping after about 10 minutes even on lowest settings and doesn't warm the room properly would changing this thermostat would solve the issue?
Thermostat is the most likely problem.