Well it's Jan 2024 & THANKS for producing this, I thought the were more complicated, we have had numerous of these and have been VERY WELL pleased with their performance and versatility, I've posted another comment about my dads, if I dealt with another one I'd replace the original cord with one more robust with a commercial plug on the end
Many thanks!!! I opened the heater as you instructed and everything was new inside so I just tried to tied up the connections and close it up again and WOW turn on and started to heat again!!!!! MANY THANKS may God bless you and your family!😊
That's not corrosion on those wires but high current meltdown. It's amazing how many space heaters I open up and find melted wires. I have numerous with failed 4-position rotary switches I'm replacing but prefer the dual rockers like yours has. Much better and last longer. What I like to do is actually leave the switch toggled on and control heater through the thermostat. I like that tip safety switch.
Hi Tie/Matthew, I have a heater that just died on me...not because of the heater itself, but from the wire connected to it. The model that I have is very old and I wanted to know if there was a way that I could just replace the wire itself? If so, then where would I go to get the replacement part, especially given that it's an older model and it's no longer being sold. (Model: Honeywell HZ910). Thank you for any help you can provide. Thanks.
@@toshia333 how did you make out I think I have the same model I pulled the cover off to quick now I don't know how the heating element was wired can you help send a pic or let me know if you found schematics
It would be a good idea to check the safety switch to make sure it isnt shorted. Also you should at least check the contacts on the thermo controls. Something made that wire burn and melt. While its open grab a can of contact cleaner and emery board a small soft aluminum wire brush and get after it. Use if contact grease wouldnt hurt when you go back togetger with it. It will help keep the contacts and leads from oxidizing corroding as well as all terminal ends. Also if the blade terminal ends feel loose or not evenly connected on the blade gently squeeze the female terminal end as to snug it down on its terminal.
Yep you would have to say that anything with burned wires you shouldn't repair, it's probably the thermal cut out in the radiator body gone wrong in a bad way, even if you new how it wouldn't be worth it.
@@peterbutlin6166 its not necessarily the burned wires part but determining the cause is worth putting a meter on it. If wores are burned right at a contact point of a sensor or element etc then thats a pretty good sign that whatever the wires are connected to prob failed in one way or another. If the wire is burned in the middle of a given length it could be that something caused it to get too hot in that spot or rubbed on the insulation or even internal wite failure possibly caused by the wire being mishandled onbinstallment and strands were broken causing a small short gradually causing further failure. Ive encountered all of those scenarios.
my dad in a small house used one of those small suitcase sized oil filled radiator type heaters, it was WONDERFUL for his situation, BUT, with his memory he would leave it on, one day I noticed a discoloration around the plug in the outlet, when I unplugged it the actual heater plug nearly came apart in my hand like putty, I then purchased one of those yellow heavy commercial plugs & replaced the original one with NO issues, BUT, if I had of known electrical stuff better I would of traced the cord into the heater & replaced it with one heavy duty one. WISH I had of rigged the knob or switch to where it could of NOT been turned to the max
Yeah.....good job, and especially at 2:22..... Done that myself...that special moment of realization "and why don't I unplug first and not do the 60-Hz shuffle"
That “Rheostat”, on the the inside, opposite the Temperature knob is actually a precise Thermostat. It has Contacts in it (like your oven t-stat), not a coil of resistance wire (like the stove burners). These heaters often fail because people think thermostats are like stovetop controls (or gas pedals) and will heat “faster” if you turn them up higher than the desired Set Point. [People do the same with air conditioners too; coming home in the afternoon, after “saving energy” by turning it completely off when they leave and turning it to 60 on return. Then wondering why it quits cooling after an hour. The coil didn’t get to defrost and is now a block of ice.] The wire that burned on your heater, was simply The Weakest Link; basically a fuse. Replacing the wire does not repair the Operator’s leaving it on high. There IS a limit switch (for the oil), just above the heating element. There is not a limit for the temperature inside the cover. If you really need the air circulating in the front cover, to be 90+ degrees F, expect to replace the heater. (It’s the cheapest way to get parts.) P.S. I’m installing a “stop screw” on the thermostat knob, at 74 degrees, where it will cycle off, cool to 72 (like an oven), then turn back on. P.P.S. Your electric water heater works the same way, except 240 volts doesn’t “Jolt”, it Kills.
I'm having trouble with my honeywell, it's old I separated the cover to quick and now I need to find out how it was originally connected.can you help please
The thermostat ISN'T a rheostat. It has a bimetallic strip that when heated will eventually disengage the contacts. They can weaken and not shut off. A minor rebind can fix it
Not Positive and Negative but Phase and Neutral unless you run on DC! tip over = anti tilt switch, not a rheostat switch but a bi-metal temperature regulating switch... question: where is the 150 Drg C over heat temp safety shut off button thermostat?
Mine quit heating . I found the 150C over heat switch. I made sure I got a 15 amp replacement. Mine was open and when cool had no connection between terminals.
I have two I bought last year that work great. I bought a used one and the dial is loose like it was knocked over and when I turn it all the way up, it still doesn't run long.
hi, you missed the component at 1:37. it is a contact switch. it has probably fused itself and thus the burned wires from the heater being continuously on when plugged in. i just repaired my lakewood 7000 with a similar wiring configuration. the contact switch was closed and wires burned. cleaned and adjusted the contacts. the heater now works and shuts off. best regards, m)
Hello Having trouble figuring out where my wires land on the heating element .I took the cover off and didn't see how it was connected can you help.please
Yes there is, positive is powered wave alternation, that's why it's positive, alternating between positive and negative, neutral is like the earth, it is essentially neutral, if you connect the positive to the earth you will experience an alternating current.
@@peterbutlin6166 You have a live and neutral in AC not a positive and negative, as the live alternates between positive and negative with respect to the neutral and ground. So, it's not positive and negative in AC wiring.
@@peterbutlin6166 Yes, AC it alternates between positive and negatives, therefore there is no positive and negative wire polarity, but live (hot) and neutral.
Mine powers up, but doesn't heat. I opened it and the thermostat knob doesn't click. Usually it does a clicking sound even if it's not plugged. Mine stopped doing it. I can't figure out how to fix it.
My oil heater only gets luke warm when turned up full. The bottom is hotter that the top. The power lights only stay on for a few moments at a time... What part could be faulty?
If I had to guess, it would be whatever apparatus the power goes through that is controlled by the dial or digital setting for heat level on the outside. It could also be one leg of the element, but that wouldn't make the light turn off...
Hello my friend.. I've bought an AEG RA-5589.. the only problem I have is the temperature reading of the heater is reading wrong.. Room has for example 19 C for example and to set it to maintain this temp I have to set it to 16 C. If I set it to 19 for example it seems not to autoclose its heater.. Is that normal?
Tooth Pain I think it's hard for the heater to be very accurate since the temperature probe is so close to the heat source. I would use the setting only as a relative measure as opposed to the actual temperature you were looking to achieve.
Thanks for your reply! It is just that it is a new device and I don't want to have picked a problematic.. Other then that it is working perfetc! Thanks again!
is it dangerous to remove the switch? and can you give me a tip on how to do it? mine got defected and burned, if i remove it and put the wires together, is it a bad idea?
Attila Albert you can twist the primary switch wires together IF there is an overload protector switch. If there is not then don't do it. power will continuously flow and eventually make the metal casing of your heater powered or could cause a fire
is it possible to just bypass all the safety stuff and hook the wiring up directly to the elements..exercise a little common sense and not leave it running when no one`s around ?
That sounds like a good way to burn down your house. I am pretty sure you could buy these heaters in any pawn shop for like $30. It is not worth the risk.
@@mbrenengen except i`ve been thru 5 of them in 4 winters..they always stop working at least here in the US..they used to be high quality now they never last..there has to be a way to wire them so they hold up
Yep, and the last time I looked at them new they were around $50 at the big box stores, they are so cheap and effective I'd just buy a new one@@mbrenengen
There is NO SUCH thing as positive & negative with A.C. the wires simply represent color coding for the assembler, wouldn't trust you to put batteries in a flashlight !
hi, you missed the component at 1:37. it is a contact switch. it has probably fused itself and thus the burned wires from the heater being continuously on when plugged in. i just repaired my lakewood 7000 with a similar wiring configuration. the contact switch was closed and wires burned. cleaned and adjusted the contacts. the heater now works and shuts off. best regards, m)
I thought possibly that burned wire is actually a fusible link. I figured the wire replacement maybe hazardous unless it was a equivalent part. I was curious what your thoughts are. I do have a kenwood ew7507ek that i cannot switch off and that's why i watched this video. I believe Lakewood is possibly the same manufacture. A similar video of what oil heater that I'm working on is on RUclips if you word search you'll find the video. Thank you for any help that you may have.
Well it's Jan 2024 & THANKS for producing this, I thought the were more complicated, we have had numerous of these and have been VERY WELL pleased with their performance and versatility, I've posted another comment about my dads, if I dealt with another one I'd replace the original cord with one more robust with a commercial plug on the end
Many thanks!!! I opened the heater as you instructed and everything was new inside so I just tried to tied up the connections and close it up again and WOW turn on and started to heat again!!!!! MANY THANKS may God bless you and your family!😊
"Power comes in here, positive si.. I'm gonna unplug it" lol
That's not corrosion on those wires but high current meltdown. It's amazing how many space heaters I open up and find melted wires. I have numerous with failed 4-position rotary switches I'm replacing but prefer the dual rockers like yours has. Much better and last longer. What I like to do is actually leave the switch toggled on and control heater through the thermostat. I like that tip safety switch.
Hi Tie/Matthew, I have a heater that just died on me...not because of the heater itself, but from the wire connected to it. The model that I have is very old and I wanted to know if there was a way that I could just replace the wire itself? If so, then where would I go to get the replacement part, especially given that it's an older model and it's no longer being sold. (Model: Honeywell HZ910). Thank you for any help you can provide. Thanks.
What temp is the thermo switch suppose close at
I pulled off my cover to quick now I don't know where the wires came off of the heating element can you please help
@@toshia333 how did you make out
I think I have the same model
I pulled the cover off to quick now I don't know how the heating element was wired can you help send a pic or let me know if you found schematics
It would be a good idea to check the safety switch to make sure it isnt shorted. Also you should at least check the contacts on the thermo controls. Something made that wire burn and melt. While its open grab a can of contact cleaner and emery board a small soft aluminum wire brush and get after it. Use if contact grease wouldnt hurt when you go back togetger with it. It will help keep the contacts and leads from oxidizing corroding as well as all terminal ends. Also if the blade terminal ends feel loose or not evenly connected on the blade gently squeeze the female terminal end as to snug it down on its terminal.
Yep you would have to say that anything with burned wires you shouldn't repair, it's probably the thermal cut out in the radiator body gone wrong in a bad way, even if you new how it wouldn't be worth it.
@@peterbutlin6166 its not necessarily the burned wires part but determining the cause is worth putting a meter on it. If wores are burned right at a contact point of a sensor or element etc then thats a pretty good sign that whatever the wires are connected to prob failed in one way or another. If the wire is burned in the middle of a given length it could be that something caused it to get too hot in that spot or rubbed on the insulation or even internal wite failure possibly caused by the wire being mishandled onbinstallment and strands were broken causing a small short gradually causing further failure. Ive encountered all of those scenarios.
my dad in a small house used one of those small suitcase sized oil filled radiator type heaters, it was WONDERFUL for his situation, BUT, with his memory he would leave it on, one day I noticed a discoloration around the plug in the outlet, when I unplugged it the actual heater plug nearly came apart in my hand like putty, I then purchased one of those yellow heavy commercial plugs & replaced the original one with NO issues, BUT, if I had of known electrical stuff better I would of traced the cord into the heater & replaced it with one heavy duty one. WISH I had of rigged the knob or switch to where it could of NOT been turned to the max
Yeah.....good job, and especially at 2:22.....
Done that myself...that special moment of realization "and why don't I unplug first and not do the 60-Hz shuffle"
Strong motivation to not do that more than once.
+UnderseaCaveman LOL 60-Hz shuffle
That “Rheostat”, on the the inside, opposite the Temperature knob is actually a precise Thermostat. It has Contacts in it (like your oven t-stat), not a coil of resistance wire (like the stove burners). These heaters often fail because people think thermostats are like stovetop controls (or gas pedals) and will heat “faster” if you turn them up higher than the desired Set Point. [People do the same with air conditioners too; coming home in the afternoon, after “saving energy” by turning it completely off when they leave and turning it to 60 on return. Then wondering why it quits cooling after an hour. The coil didn’t get to defrost and is now a block of ice.] The wire that burned on your heater, was simply The Weakest Link; basically a fuse. Replacing the wire does not repair the Operator’s leaving it on high. There IS a limit switch (for the oil), just above the heating element. There is not a limit for the temperature inside the cover. If you really need the air circulating in the front cover, to be 90+ degrees F, expect to replace the heater. (It’s the cheapest way to get parts.) P.S. I’m installing a “stop screw” on the thermostat knob, at 74 degrees, where it will cycle off, cool to 72 (like an oven), then turn back on. P.P.S. Your electric water heater works the same way, except 240 volts doesn’t “Jolt”, it Kills.
I'm having trouble with my honeywell, it's old I separated the cover to quick and now I need to find out how it was originally connected.can you help please
The thermostat ISN'T a rheostat. It has a bimetallic strip that when heated will eventually disengage the contacts. They can weaken and not shut off. A minor rebind can fix it
Great video! Thanks for sharing Matthew!
Not Positive and Negative but Phase and Neutral unless you run on DC! tip over = anti tilt switch, not a rheostat switch but a bi-metal temperature regulating switch...
question: where is the 150 Drg C over heat temp safety shut off button thermostat?
Mine quit heating . I found the 150C over heat switch. I made sure I got a 15 amp replacement. Mine was open and when cool had no connection between terminals.
this is how you know you are talking to a specialized person يعطيك الصحة
Thanks for sharing this!
I have two I bought last year that work great. I bought a used one and the dial is loose like it was knocked over and when I turn it all the way up, it still doesn't run long.
hi, you missed the component at 1:37. it is a contact switch. it has probably fused itself and thus the burned wires from the heater being continuously on when plugged in. i just repaired my lakewood 7000 with a similar wiring configuration. the contact switch was closed and wires burned. cleaned and adjusted the contacts. the heater now works and shuts off. best regards, m)
Hello
Having trouble figuring out where my wires land on the heating element .I took the cover off and didn't see how it was connected can you help.please
I have mark India OFR. It makes some continuous clicking sound on and off. Please tell me how to fix it
there is no Positive and Negative in Alternating Current, it's only a Hot and Neutral
Yes there is, positive is powered wave alternation, that's why it's positive, alternating between positive and negative, neutral is like the earth, it is essentially neutral, if you connect the positive to the earth you will experience an alternating current.
@@peterbutlin6166 You have a live and neutral in AC not a positive and negative, as the live alternates between positive and negative with respect to the neutral and ground. So, it's not positive and negative in AC wiring.
@@Eddiecurrent2000 no, AC, alternating current.
@@peterbutlin6166 Yes, AC it alternates between positive and negatives, therefore there is no positive and negative wire polarity, but live (hot) and neutral.
HOLA! ES POSIBLE CONSEGUIR EL QUIT DE SUS PARTES ELECTRICAS? DONDE?
Mine powers up, but doesn't heat. I opened it and the thermostat knob doesn't click. Usually it does a clicking sound even if it's not plugged. Mine stopped doing it. I can't figure out how to fix it.
Was it fixed?
@@Rishi2015 No. Had to get a new one. (Which also laster for a couple of years.) These things are probably designed to break after 1 or 2 seasons.
@@martin984 Thank you for your reply.
Do you know where I can get a replacement of the double on/off switch?
Which wire is the thermal protection for overheating?
My oil heater only gets luke warm when turned up full. The bottom is hotter that the top. The power lights only stay on for a few moments at a time...
What part could be faulty?
If I had to guess, it would be whatever apparatus the power goes through that is controlled by the dial or digital setting for heat level on the outside. It could also be one leg of the element, but that wouldn't make the light turn off...
Try flipping it for a few minutes, then flip it for a few other minutes, then test it.
I f**ked it out...
wiring diagram?
Hello my friend.. I've bought an AEG RA-5589.. the only problem I have is the temperature reading of the heater is reading wrong.. Room has for example 19 C for example and to set it to maintain this temp I have to set it to 16 C. If I set it to 19 for example it seems not to autoclose its heater.. Is that normal?
Tooth Pain I think it's hard for the heater to be very accurate since the temperature probe is so close to the heat source. I would use the setting only as a relative measure as opposed to the actual temperature you were looking to achieve.
Thanks for your reply! It is just that it is a new device and I don't want to have picked a problematic.. Other then that it is working perfetc! Thanks again!
Can you make a vid on how to wire directly to the heating element for a oil filled heater that has a two heating elements in one . Thanks
robviolin1
then when your house burns down because you bypassed the safety features you can sue his back end ???
Hi, do you have the Wiring Diagram? Couldnt find it in the video. Thank you so much
شكرا على الفيديو الرائع
عبدالسلام الانصاري You are welcome!
is it dangerous to remove the switch? and can you give me a tip on how to do it? mine got defected and burned, if i remove it and put the wires together, is it a bad idea?
Hmmm. I probably should not say. Watch the video for my take on what all the wires do and make your own decision or ask someone smarter than I.
Attila Albert you can twist the primary switch wires together IF there is an overload protector switch. If there is not then don't do it. power will continuously flow and eventually make the metal casing of your heater powered or could cause a fire
Alternating Current doesn't have Positive or Negative, just saying.
I know. You are not the first to point that out.
Nice explanation, but where's the wiring diagram?
he explained it
Hi There
How I can buy wheels
is it possible to just bypass all the safety stuff and hook the wiring up directly to the elements..exercise a little common sense and not leave it running when no one`s around ?
That sounds like a good way to burn down your house. I am pretty sure you could buy these heaters in any pawn shop for like $30. It is not worth the risk.
@@mbrenengen except i`ve been thru 5 of them in 4 winters..they always stop working at least here in the US..they used to be high quality now they never last..there has to be a way to wire them so they hold up
Yep, and the last time I looked at them new they were around $50 at the big box stores, they are so cheap and effective I'd just buy a new one@@mbrenengen
I'm gonna fix this ummm...piece of shit
There is NO SUCH thing as positive & negative with A.C. the wires simply represent color coding for the assembler, wouldn't trust you to put batteries in a flashlight !
Shows how much you know! Flashlights are DC. :)
😆😆😆😆😆😂😂😂😂😂👍👍@@mbrenengen
hi, you missed the component at 1:37. it is a contact switch. it has probably fused itself and thus the burned wires from the heater being continuously on when plugged in. i just repaired my lakewood 7000 with a similar wiring configuration. the contact switch was closed and wires burned. cleaned and adjusted the contacts. the heater now works and shuts off. best regards, m)
I thought possibly that burned wire is actually a fusible link. I figured the wire replacement maybe hazardous unless it was a equivalent part. I was curious what your thoughts are. I do have a kenwood ew7507ek that i cannot switch off and that's why i watched this video. I believe Lakewood is possibly the same manufacture. A similar video of what oil heater that I'm working on is on RUclips if you word search you'll find the video. Thank you for any help that you may have.