Great video. The reason builder's and other trades throw these away is because all equipment used on a site has to have a test label on to show its passed a safety test, unless it's brand new in a sealed box. Once it's on site and out the box it can't be taken to another site without the test so it's cheaper to buy new again. We used to do the same with kettles on our sites we went to
Where there's charred contracts is where there is higher resistance/ impedance and that's where added heat occurs. Once the process of charing occurs it just gets worse and that's when your chance of fire grows exponentially. Definately clean all charred or carbon covered contacts with a wire brush, sand paper or a file. Leave no contacts black or dull, you want nice shiny metal. Take care! As always i love watching the videos!
My absolute favorite channel to watch and no offense but they aren't the best as you say yourself. But they just get me. An average guy what likes tech and likes fixing things. Absolutely bob on to watch i love it. Keep it up bud 👍
I have a little heating fan and those things are great for a quick burst of heat in a cold bathroom or bedroom. Mine isn't that model but it's basically the same thing, a normal fan with 2 extra heat settings for a total of about $10. I enjoy it so much that I'd try to fix mine if it broke and if unable to fix it I'd buy another without thinking twice. Nice work, Vince!
Houses in the UK all had radial sub circuits, the round pin sockets, until rewiring, typically the late 1960s, where a cable went to one socket, fused at 15A. The 5A socket were usually on the lighting circuit. The advent of ring main which coincided with the demand for more sockets saw the introduction of square pin sockets but the likes of a garage or outbuilding say, will often still be a radial circuit because of the distance from the main consumer unit. Paul is right that you wouldn't know if a ring is broken. It's integrity is part of testing however.
@@roasthunter I would have thought there would be too many sockets to do that within the regs. Can I ask what breaker size you used and why you didn't fix the broken ring?
@@jns8393 I don't recall breaker sizes on each radial it was over 10 years ago. The intention was to fix the ring at some point, we worked out where it was broken but never got round to it, I think it meant cutting new channels into the walls to run the wire and then I sold the house before doing it. It is probably still broken, the new buyers never did any kind of survey before buying the house which would have picked it up and I don't think they were the type to do much maintenance.
Great job =D What might have happened - the bimetalic cut off may have got dirty and NOT stopped the heating when it got too hot, allowing to to pull too much current for longer than normal! Great job - very clever idea swapping the switch around to use the good contacts =D
@@JohnSaucier If I am not mistaken, I believe a skip is just a large waste container. You would probably recognize them as the huge metal garbage container that you would see outside someone's home if they were remodeling their kitchen or something.
I know most remodel jobs buy a brand new shop vacuum for that job, then just throw them out at the end of the job. They just figure the price in with cleanup. I have fished a few free shop vacuums out of construction dumpsters. I fixed a heater similar to that last summer. The switch had melted like that. I ordered a new switch and replaced it. The thing worked fine. It had been left on too long on high according to the owner.
In Canada and the US, we get two opposing single phase line wires and a neutral into our electrical breaker panel. Between L1 and N we get 120V, between L2 and N we get 120V, and between L1 and L2 we get 240V. Our ranges and dryers are typically the only appliances which will need both hot lines and the neutral (and ground). 15A is our standard breaker size and uses 14AWG wire, 20A is the next step and uses 12AWG. 30A uses 10AWG, 40A uses 8AWG, and that's typically all that's necessary. On our normal 15A wall outlets, the larger slot on the left is Neutral and shouldn't have any voltage, the smaller right slot is Hot(Line) and has 120V, and the bottom hole is Ground. I say the left slot "shouldn't" have voltage, because not every house is wired by a licensed electrician. ==EDIT== Some additional Canadian code rules. For each 15A breaker there can be a maximum of 14 outlets or end devices (lights). Kitchen counter outlets are either split pairs of 15A (the top and bottom of each duplex outlet are on L1 and L2 separately, with a 2-pole breaker in the panel) or on a 20A breaker with a max of two duplex outlets. The fridge and microwave will usually get their own circuits. In any given house there's anywhere between 15-45ish circuit breakers in the panel.
My Mate VINCE i have question that i can't get an answer for. Heater fan i picked it up off the floor and the bottom of the fan is hot to the touch is this normal ?
Does Paul have his own mat to work on or have you traveled with yours, mate? I have to confess, they are most excellent desktop surfaces. Even if you're not soldering. The clean well with IPA and you can lay your soldering iron directly on it.
The problem with these things is usually people leave them on the highest setting for a long amount of time, it's only meant to be used for short periods and should be used most of the time at mid setting only, i've seen cases of these things even melting down wall sockets because of the heat (and the thin chinese leads)
Happened to me a lot when I had them at highest settings for long periods, I ran one as a replacement for a gas heater for hours at a time and eventually it stopped working at high setting, another died totally.
Here in the U.S. 120v 60hz and most of the circuits in are homes are 15 amps with a circuit breakers in a electrical panel. Some circuits are 20 amps 120v and are big appliances like water heater, cook top and oven, hvac, and cloths dryer are 240v. I guess the government here expects the circuit breaker to protect us from shock or short circuit. We also do not have switches on the plug outlet either.
I don't know about the rest of the world, but here in Australia, all residential GPOs (General Purpose Outlet) are rated at 10A with some at 15A, all fuses are in the meter box (Electrical box) and generally at 16A or higher (depends on how old / new the house is), therefore, all electrical devices sold in Australia for residential use are rated at 220-240V 10A, there's no reason to have the fuse in the plug for us. Our electrical ovens can be either 10A or 15A, and clothes dryers are 10A or 15A. I've always found the UK very weird, but I guess it's so you can have a range of amperage devices and the fuse in the plug is what determines things.
Maybe it was on when it fell, or there was a lightening strike or something. Seems to be alright now. I wouldn't leave this kind of device (with a fan) on unattended even when new. It's ridiculous how many devices are just thrown in the bin because of small faults. I wish more people would repair.
We have 10A plugs in Brazil as default, and we also have 20A plugs for beefier equipments. We have 110V in some cities and 220V in others. We also have 3 phase 380V for industrial equipments.
thats today's economy for you - bloody switch of the device costs more than the device itself (possibly due to bulk purchases by manufacturer). Disposable products are so nasty
A bit of advice? Whenever working on anything electric or electronic, remove rings and jewlery so you cannot cause a short by accident. That ring of yours would make a dandy burn on your finger even if you could get it out of contact of the mains. Good day!
Interestingly, while it's commonly believed that the USA uses 120V it actually uses 240V. The confusion comes from the way the power is delivered to homes where basically 2x120V is delivered rather than 240V. Technology Connections has a good video on it if your interested.
It looks like DSE-2313 and DSE-2310 are codes for different certification or registration systems(?). The datasheet says "UL NO: DSE 2313, ENEC NO: DSE-2310". I don't know what UL means but ENECT stands for European Norms Electrical Certification and you can see ENEC logo in the bottom right corner of the switch (at 14:51).
Ni fuses in plugs in France, nor do we have switches on the wall outlets. I would always forget to switch them off after using electrical appliances, which anoyed my flatmates very much when I lived in the UK
Hi i have a easy home fan i plug it in and it makes a noise but the fan not go around, but some times then the fan goes around might not make any sense but its like its go a mind of its own lol. Please help
In most parts of mainland Europe we use three different plugs. Type C(AKA The Europlug), Type E(which is earthed) and Type F(which is also earthed). None of these plugs have fuse in them. So why your Type G plug you use have a fuse is interesting, especially when the power is the same voltage as the rest of Europe(230 volts).
the UK has a ring circuit because of copper shortage back then... and the house is fused on 40A instead of having 20A fuses for every circuit - so 2 wires going down the entire house
10amp you are allowed to use 16A but few use that because you need alote thicker cable and maximum 10 diffren 230v outputs. For 1 fuse you can maximum get 40 sockets. This is some of the laws for nordic cuntrys
The reason why it burned is most likely because the springs didn’t have enough tension from the factor so they didn’t make a good connection. I would say that it is safe now and won’t happen again.
lasko which makes fans and heaters and what not have fuses in all their plugs its a safety feature built in to stop over current here in the us if it has a blue plug good bet it has a fuse
As Paul mentioned, it's because here in the UK we use a ring main system which connects each outlet to the next and then back to the consumer unit (fuse / distribution board) creating a daisy chain effect, which requires a relatively high current fuse or breaker. This results in a higher power availability at each individual outlet which increases the risk of fire in a fault scenario, thus individual appliance plugs are fused at a suitable rating for that appliance.
I would say it should be OK if you follow the general good sense with 240v units, to make sure its properly earthed, properly fused with modern RCD boxes those trip quicker than a human blink and that is why so many countries adopted the British system. I remember round pin plugs and it was where you had heavy thick three round pins plug for cookers and fires and medium round pins for the telly and little round pins for things like lamps and lights and it did make life difficult as you needed adapter this and adapter that to just put the little glowing heater on in the front room and because the line feeding it was designed to take a lighter load, it made the whole thing dangerous. Also most houses had two thick 35A fuses one for lights and one for plugs and because you "fixed" them yourself, many bright sparks decided that blowing fuses was silly and got out the tin foil or nail and then the whole circuit is shorting and no fire alarms and the first thing you knew about it was when the fire erupted from under the floorboards or in many cases ceilings because people used to use ceiling light adapters to power heavy duty fires etc. Bedsits were a positive nightmare with maybe one or two sockets and people would have several adapters plugged in to each other and running about 7 or 8 items on one socket with the expected conflagration when you have massive amps pulling on one little plug socket. Our house in South London was such a place, its ring mains were old cotton braided stuff that had rotted off in places or eaten by rodents and I helped my father rewire from top to bottom with all new MK stuff, super thick cabling he purloined from British Rail and the precursor to the modern RCD which had a more clunkier trip and super expensive.
So the switch is 6.5A rated at 250V... These things are usually 2kW at max output, which exceeds the 1500W or so that the switch is rated for. Not great. Running that for a prolonged period will surely cause degradation?
Those cheap fan heaters often operate at a lower power than more expensive ones although the cheap components don't do anything to help with safety or longevity.
The rating is probably per contact, in which case it'd be (theoretically) sufficient as long as each individual element is below 6.5A. Not that I've seen many heaters with slider switches like this anyway; most other fan heaters I've seen use a larger rotary switch. EDIT: Now that I take note of the red/brown wires, the full current would indeed have to go through one pair of contacts (as both reds go to the second element, so one of the adjoining browns must be input and the other the first element). What a convoluted crappy circuit arrangement! So they really did go the extra mile to make this heater as unreliable as possible.
Discouleration of an outer sheath, whether on a supply or power out wire, will lhave damadged strands/or single solid. The damadged wire will cause the resistance to be higher, thus heating it up and damaging it more, or god forbid starting a fire. The switch is junk non repairable, source a replacement, and cut out and use a soldersplice to renew any discoulered cable, or renew to it,s contact point within the heater.
So can eating meat that has been cooked over an open flame. I know we should do are best to protect are self but sometimes we don't have the stuff we need to do so. Vince is not at home so may not have thought to bring any.
It's so annoying about the mark-up on switches and other components when you want to repair something. A switch like that should cost less than a pound, realistically.
You should tide the cable connectors, it burned because of weak connection on cable connector because it was sparkling. At 220V AC it CAN NOT ARK! To produce ark (create arking) at 8mm (0.3 inch) you need around 15 000 volts AC. This plastic CAN NOT sustain burning because it contains Carbon and when heated creates CO2 wich preventing normal burning and become charring.
The term is arc. I would recommend you go and study Paschen's law. Under certain conditions most voltages can create an arc and 240V (which in the UK can have a peak rating of 340V) is certainly capable of forming an arc... There is a reason why there are arc suppression devices available for 240V ...
@@Fifury161 Sorry, English is not my primary language and i make typos (My English is better than your Bulgarian!). I CHALLENGE YOU TO CREATE AN ARC WITH 220-380V AC AT HOME WHEN YOU TRYING TO TOUCH THE LIVE AND NEUTRAL WIRES IN YOUR WALL PLUG! Good luck if you do! :D Yes if you have 500+ Amps (or few KV at hand) and you touch live with neutral ... it will create near 1 meter arC - I've seen it with my own eyes 3 times for near 30 years in electronics ;) . Arc suppression devices are mostly made to protect mains powered devices in building or house when a lightning hits lightning rod and can't fully discharge to earth (due to several construction and electrical reasons) and creates arc or globe of lightning and/or jumps to mains or nearby cables and BOOM your PC is dead if you don't have arc protection but even this won't save your devices but will save you or your expensive industrial machinery!
I wouldn't trust that fan heater in the house because it doesn't have a dead man's cut out switch. If it was accidentally toppled over it wouldn't cut itself out, it would continue to run. Too dangerous for my liking.
Nice, if-n it ever gets used, then that's one less chunk of plastic Err-"Batch of Oil" to be manufactured into plastic due to current heater stocks stagnating by a unit, and the more plastic items that are restored the more oil is then made available for those who choose recklessly to pollute and destroy this planet with their gas guzzling hunks of junk.. "AU" err-"As Usual" I dropped a like..
:D if you buy 1 million of those switches you can get them for around 1 euro / each. :D and in times of Corona good connections are NOT WANTED...but most important: NEVER NEVER NEVER reuse a burnt switch. It will 100% sure fail over time and become really dangerous. In trains we often had burnt switches and some of them even spit out sparks
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Can I just say... a BIG thumbs up to paul... he's had some good stuff to repair in the past. Plus... he knows his stuff!
I have been binge watching your videos all day. The are brilliant 😂
U ok?
U ok?
Kevin!!!
Yep" The are brilliant"..
Great video. The reason builder's and other trades throw these away is because all equipment used on a site has to have a test label on to show its passed a safety test, unless it's brand new in a sealed box. Once it's on site and out the box it can't be taken to another site without the test so it's cheaper to buy new again. We used to do the same with kettles on our sites we went to
Awsome that you do stuff with Paul again! Extremely entertaining thank you!
Where there's charred contracts is where there is higher resistance/ impedance and that's where added heat occurs. Once the process of charing occurs it just gets worse and that's when your chance of fire grows exponentially. Definately clean all charred or carbon covered contacts with a wire brush, sand paper or a file. Leave no contacts black or dull, you want nice shiny metal. Take care! As always i love watching the videos!
I like it when you include your brother in your videos Vince he seems quite knowledgeable like yourself. Great vid buddie👍
If you have hair dryer fan non working they have same switch you don.t have to bye 5 pound . like your videos and nice repair.
My absolute favorite channel to watch and no offense but they aren't the best as you say yourself. But they just get me. An average guy what likes tech and likes fixing things. Absolutely bob on to watch i love it. Keep it up bud 👍
I still love the videos you do with your bro. you guys work soooooo well together.
I like it when you try to fix al day electronics :) that already saved me some money tried some at home and worked :)
Didn't know your brother was Henning Wehn from 8 out of 10 cats does countdown :) keep up the great content Vince, Your subby from Down under.
im a great fan of his channel and a FANtastic repair done .
Keep up the good work fella and stay safe in current climate
I have a little heating fan and those things are great for a quick burst of heat in a cold bathroom or bedroom.
Mine isn't that model but it's basically the same thing, a normal fan with 2 extra heat settings for a total of about $10.
I enjoy it so much that I'd try to fix mine if it broke and if unable to fix it I'd buy another without thinking twice. Nice work, Vince!
Houses in the UK all had radial sub circuits, the round pin sockets, until rewiring, typically the late 1960s, where a cable went to one socket, fused at 15A. The 5A socket were usually on the lighting circuit. The advent of ring main which coincided with the demand for more sockets saw the introduction of square pin sockets but the likes of a garage or outbuilding say, will often still be a radial circuit because of the distance from the main consumer unit. Paul is right that you wouldn't know if a ring is broken. It's integrity is part of testing however.
I had a house that had a broken ring main, we split the ring into 2 radials at the distribution box.
@@roasthunter I would have thought there would be too many sockets to do that within the regs. Can I ask what breaker size you used and why you didn't fix the broken ring?
@@jns8393 I don't recall breaker sizes on each radial it was over 10 years ago. The intention was to fix the ring at some point, we worked out where it was broken but never got round to it, I think it meant cutting new channels into the walls to run the wire and then I sold the house before doing it. It is probably still broken, the new buyers never did any kind of survey before buying the house which would have picked it up and I don't think they were the type to do much maintenance.
Great job =D What might have happened - the bimetalic cut off may have got dirty and NOT stopped the heating when it got too hot, allowing to to pull too much current for longer than normal! Great job - very clever idea swapping the switch around to use the good contacts =D
Yes Chris, that makes sense. Cheers mate :-)
"I found it in a skip!" AHA! Important bit of information! Hahahaha! Great video Vince!
What exactly is a skip? I'm from the US, so I assume it's a British thing.
@@JohnSaucier If I am not mistaken, I believe a skip is just a large waste container. You would probably recognize them as the huge metal garbage container that you would see outside someone's home if they were remodeling their kitchen or something.
@@killerrt483 Dumpster
great video
Can't thank you enough for all these videos while we are in quarantine. Absolutely love them!!
I have to say I love your great music selection :)
regarding the charcoal, look at some videos of high voltage and wood. Will give you a good visual demonstration 🙂
I know most remodel jobs buy a brand new shop vacuum for that job, then just throw them out at the end of the job. They just figure the price in with cleanup. I have fished a few free shop vacuums out of construction dumpsters. I fixed a heater similar to that last summer. The switch had melted like that. I ordered a new switch and replaced it. The thing worked fine. It had been left on too long on high according to the owner.
Great video
Save the planet -repair.Don't throw away your plastic.Good job !.
You could theoretically change that to be two standard switches, one for turning the unit on, then the other for swapping between the coil settings
In Canada and the US, we get two opposing single phase line wires and a neutral into our electrical breaker panel. Between L1 and N we get 120V, between L2 and N we get 120V, and between L1 and L2 we get 240V.
Our ranges and dryers are typically the only appliances which will need both hot lines and the neutral (and ground). 15A is our standard breaker size and uses 14AWG wire, 20A is the next step and uses 12AWG. 30A uses 10AWG, 40A uses 8AWG, and that's typically all that's necessary.
On our normal 15A wall outlets, the larger slot on the left is Neutral and shouldn't have any voltage, the smaller right slot is Hot(Line) and has 120V, and the bottom hole is Ground. I say the left slot "shouldn't" have voltage, because not every house is wired by a licensed electrician.
==EDIT== Some additional Canadian code rules. For each 15A breaker there can be a maximum of 14 outlets or end devices (lights). Kitchen counter outlets are either split pairs of 15A (the top and bottom of each duplex outlet are on L1 and L2 separately, with a 2-pole breaker in the panel) or on a 20A breaker with a max of two duplex outlets. The fridge and microwave will usually get their own circuits.
In any given house there's anywhere between 15-45ish circuit breakers in the panel.
(26:43) "... so this is the one that never dies". Great description for the heather, i love it.
My Mate VINCE i have question that i can't get an answer for. Heater fan i picked it up off the floor and the bottom of the fan is hot to the touch is this normal ?
Does Paul have his own mat to work on or have you traveled with yours, mate? I have to confess, they are most excellent desktop surfaces. Even if you're not soldering. The clean well with IPA and you can lay your soldering iron directly on it.
Your videos are amazing. Keep up the good work :)
The problem with these things is usually people leave them on the highest setting for a long amount of time, it's only meant to be used for short periods and should be used most of the time at mid setting only, i've seen cases of these things even melting down wall sockets because of the heat (and the thin chinese leads)
Happened to me a lot when I had them at highest settings for long periods, I ran one as a replacement for a gas heater for hours at a time and eventually it stopped working at high setting, another died totally.
just came to see what’s wrong with my heater…. and realized i’m the person who leaves it on high for a long time…rip little heater
but your comment rly helped me thanks !
Here in the U.S. 120v 60hz and most of the circuits in are homes are 15 amps with a circuit breakers in a electrical panel. Some circuits are 20 amps 120v and are big appliances like water heater, cook top and oven, hvac, and cloths dryer are 240v. I guess the government here expects the circuit breaker to protect us from shock or short circuit. We also do not have switches on the plug outlet either.
Good fix as always 👍🏻
In Belgium our fuse boxes usually the standard fuses do not go beyond 12amps :)
I don't know about the rest of the world, but here in Australia, all residential GPOs (General Purpose Outlet) are rated at 10A with some at 15A, all fuses are in the meter box (Electrical box) and generally at 16A or higher (depends on how old / new the house is), therefore, all electrical devices sold in Australia for residential use are rated at 220-240V 10A, there's no reason to have the fuse in the plug for us.
Our electrical ovens can be either 10A or 15A, and clothes dryers are 10A or 15A. I've always found the UK very weird, but I guess it's so you can have a range of amperage devices and the fuse in the plug is what determines things.
Maybe it was on when it fell, or there was a lightening strike or something. Seems to be alright now. I wouldn't leave this kind of device (with a fan) on unattended even when new. It's ridiculous how many devices are just thrown in the bin because of small faults. I wish more people would repair.
A lightning strike 😂
We have 10A plugs in Brazil as default, and we also have 20A plugs for beefier equipments. We have 110V in some cities and 220V in others. We also have 3 phase 380V for industrial equipments.
Typical household mains items in the UK go upto 13A 240v.
thats today's economy for you - bloody switch of the device costs more than the device itself (possibly due to bulk purchases by manufacturer).
Disposable products are so nasty
A bit of advice? Whenever working on anything electric or electronic, remove rings and jewlery so you cannot cause a short by accident. That ring of yours would make a dandy burn on your finger even if you could get it out of contact of the mains. Good day!
Interestingly, while it's commonly believed that the USA uses 120V it actually uses 240V. The confusion comes from the way the power is delivered to homes where basically 2x120V is delivered rather than 240V.
Technology Connections has a good video on it if your interested.
One of the few Switches you was able to repair :P =D
Wowww very helpful and amazing video ...keep it upp goood
It looks like DSE-2313 and DSE-2310 are codes for different certification or registration systems(?). The datasheet says "UL NO: DSE 2313, ENEC NO: DSE-2310". I don't know what UL means but ENECT stands for European Norms Electrical Certification and you can see ENEC logo in the bottom right corner of the switch (at 14:51).
UL = Underwriters laboratories
I would bin that right after you made this video should never be used. THAT IS A FIRE HAZARD!
I've got the warmlite wl44002 and it lights up but won't start or function and is doing absolutely nothing even when lit up
Ni fuses in plugs in France, nor do we have switches on the wall outlets. I would always forget to switch them off after using electrical appliances, which anoyed my flatmates very much when I lived in the UK
Hi i have a easy home fan i plug it in and it makes a noise but the fan not go around, but some times then the fan goes around might not make any sense but its like its go a mind of its own lol. Please help
In most parts of mainland Europe we use three different plugs. Type C(AKA The Europlug), Type E(which is earthed) and Type F(which is also earthed). None of these plugs have fuse in them. So why your Type G plug you use have a fuse is interesting, especially when the power is the same voltage as the rest of Europe(230 volts).
the UK has a ring circuit because of copper shortage back then... and the house is fused on 40A instead of having 20A fuses for every circuit - so 2 wires going down the entire house
cant wait for this!
Me too!
Some things we have in America we do have a fuse in the plug.
10amp you are allowed to use 16A but few use that because you need alote thicker cable and maximum 10 diffren 230v outputs. For 1 fuse you can maximum get 40 sockets. This is some of the laws for nordic cuntrys
Another thing is that we have to use twice as thick cable as you use to every socket
The reason why it burned is most likely because the springs didn’t have enough tension from the factor so they didn’t make a good connection. I would say that it is safe now and won’t happen again.
It will be as safe now as when it was bought I would say like you said not enough pressure on the contacts from the beginning.
lasko which makes fans and heaters and what not have fuses in all their plugs its a safety feature built in to stop over current here in the us if it has a blue plug good bet it has a fuse
Hi I need your help to fix my switch
We use 240V in Australia and we don't have fuses in our plugs.
I think its because in australia most places have RCD's? Im not sure I remember reading something about this a while ago
You also have way more things that are far more likely to kill you than an electrical fire. Fuses are the least of your problems. Straya.
As Paul mentioned, it's because here in the UK we use a ring main system which connects each outlet to the next and then back to the consumer unit (fuse / distribution board) creating a daisy chain effect, which requires a relatively high current fuse or breaker. This results in a higher power availability at each individual outlet which increases the risk of fire in a fault scenario, thus individual appliance plugs are fused at a suitable rating for that appliance.
I would say it should be OK if you follow the general good sense with 240v units, to make sure its properly earthed, properly fused with modern RCD boxes those trip quicker than a human blink and that is why so many countries adopted the British system. I remember round pin plugs and it was where you had heavy thick three round pins plug for cookers and fires and medium round pins for the telly and little round pins for things like lamps and lights and it did make life difficult as you needed adapter this and adapter that to just put the little glowing heater on in the front room and because the line feeding it was designed to take a lighter load, it made the whole thing dangerous. Also most houses had two thick 35A fuses one for lights and one for plugs and because you "fixed" them yourself, many bright sparks decided that blowing fuses was silly and got out the tin foil or nail and then the whole circuit is shorting and no fire alarms and the first thing you knew about it was when the fire erupted from under the floorboards or in many cases ceilings because people used to use ceiling light adapters to power heavy duty fires etc. Bedsits were a positive nightmare with maybe one or two sockets and people would have several adapters plugged in to each other and running about 7 or 8 items on one socket with the expected conflagration when you have massive amps pulling on one little plug socket. Our house in South London was such a place, its ring mains were old cotton braided stuff that had rotted off in places or eaten by rodents and I helped my father rewire from top to bottom with all new MK stuff, super thick cabling he purloined from British Rail and the precursor to the modern RCD which had a more clunkier trip and super expensive.
Is it worth fixing, yea it’s a challenge 👍
Germany doesn't use fuses in plugs aswell
Anotha one? Anotha one. No silly virus can hold My Mate Vince back,
So the switch is 6.5A rated at 250V... These things are usually 2kW at max output, which exceeds the 1500W or so that the switch is rated for. Not great. Running that for a prolonged period will surely cause degradation?
Those cheap fan heaters often operate at a lower power than more expensive ones although the cheap components don't do anything to help with safety or longevity.
@@WaltonPete I checked this model and it is indeed rated at 2kw.
@@jasejj
That's probably why the switch burned out then!
The rating is probably per contact, in which case it'd be (theoretically) sufficient as long as each individual element is below 6.5A.
Not that I've seen many heaters with slider switches like this anyway; most other fan heaters I've seen use a larger rotary switch.
EDIT: Now that I take note of the red/brown wires, the full current would indeed have to go through one pair of contacts (as both reds go to the second element, so one of the adjoining browns must be input and the other the first element). What a convoluted crappy circuit arrangement! So they really did go the extra mile to make this heater as unreliable as possible.
Discouleration of an outer sheath, whether on a supply or power out wire, will lhave damadged strands/or single solid. The damadged wire will cause the resistance to be higher, thus heating it up and damaging it more, or god forbid starting a fire. The switch is junk non repairable, source a replacement, and cut out and use a soldersplice to renew any discoulered cable, or renew to it,s contact point within the heater.
Cheers mates💓
It keeps it out of landfill :) source another switch and you are good to go
you can flip the switch around and use the contacts on the other side.
Don't throw away those cable tie tails, they can be used as plastic welding rods
What's the best way to melt them down to use them for this?
most wall take 14 gauge max 15a 120v 60 hrz single phase is what we use here in canada
Far out - just change the switch around - it works - well done
My mate vince ....the answer to self isolation boredom
A better answer is to just go outside, as long as you're not sick.
Please don’t let Paul use that heater. It’s crazy that the fuse didn’t blow b4 the short did all that damage.
The fuse in a UK plug is to protect the cable between the appliance and the plug
Build up of oxidation causes the heat to build up.. Old Atari arcade boards have that same issue.
Please use cloves when dealing with burnt plastics, they can be carcinogenic.
So can eating meat that has been cooked over an open flame. I know we should do are best to protect are self but sometimes we don't have the stuff we need to do so. Vince is not at home so may not have thought to bring any.
Spray electrical contact cleaner to remove all the crap incl. carbon. Those springs will seize up again. A lite lubricant would have been beneficial.
Vince, formerly known as The Switch Killer, currently known as The Fan Heater Necromancer.
No offence, but it sounds like your brother is clued up enough to have diagnosed the problem himself.
It's so annoying about the mark-up on switches and other components when you want to repair something. A switch like that should cost less than a pound, realistically.
2.5mm wire for plugs in South africa and no fused plugs 16A per plug
i cut a slot in a screwdriver to use on the safety screws
It's called a biomatLic strip (spelling is probably wrong)
We do have plugs with fuses in America but most don't.
Yes, christmas lights, not heaters.
@@scottfirman my tower fan has one
You should tide the cable connectors, it burned because of weak connection on cable connector because it was sparkling. At 220V AC it CAN NOT ARK! To produce ark (create arking) at 8mm (0.3 inch) you need around 15 000 volts AC. This plastic CAN NOT sustain burning because it contains Carbon and when heated creates CO2 wich preventing normal burning and become charring.
Ohhh, so 1 of the connectors was slightly loose causing sparking. I understand now. Thank you Technixbul :-)
The term is arc. I would recommend you go and study Paschen's law. Under certain conditions most voltages can create an arc and 240V (which in the UK can have a peak rating of 340V) is certainly capable of forming an arc...
There is a reason why there are arc suppression devices available for 240V ...
@@Fifury161 Sorry, English is not my primary language and i make typos (My English is better than your Bulgarian!). I CHALLENGE YOU TO CREATE AN ARC WITH 220-380V AC AT HOME WHEN YOU TRYING TO TOUCH THE LIVE AND NEUTRAL WIRES IN YOUR WALL PLUG! Good luck if you do! :D Yes if you have 500+ Amps (or few KV at hand) and you touch live with neutral ... it will create near 1 meter arC - I've seen it with my own eyes 3 times for near 30 years in electronics ;) . Arc suppression devices are mostly made to protect mains powered devices in building or house when a lightning hits lightning rod and can't fully discharge to earth (due to several construction and electrical reasons) and creates arc or globe of lightning and/or jumps to mains or nearby cables and BOOM your PC is dead if you don't have arc protection but even this won't save your devices but will save you or your expensive industrial machinery!
@@Mymatevince ;)
here is some real arcing -> ruclips.net/video/-9RB3T_kVh4/видео.html
I wouldn't trust that fan heater in the house because it doesn't have a dead man's cut out switch. If it was accidentally toppled over it wouldn't cut itself out, it would continue to run. Too dangerous for my liking.
Just hardware it to work directly by plugging to wall contact without any switches and it would last forever-ish
Metals expand when they get hot. Not shrink.
Do you can learn how to connect nintando switch to the laptop PC
ON the day you are not in my class you should just call them in and over to get it and you have a good day
Nice, if-n it ever gets used, then that's one less chunk of plastic Err-"Batch of Oil" to be manufactured into plastic due to current heater stocks stagnating by a unit, and the more plastic items that are restored the more oil is then made available for those who choose recklessly to pollute and destroy this planet with their gas guzzling hunks of junk..
"AU" err-"As Usual" I dropped a like..
Pull the burnt contacts out of the switch your not using then you don't have to worry about arching.
7:40 thermal fuse
You could just put the switch back backwards. The other pins seemed to be ok
Now I saw that you had the same idea. Nice!
The lower the voltage, the higher the current for a given load.
How can I load games for Nintendo switch normal but wut is best switch or lite?
Switch lite cant connect to a TV. That sucks.
My new fan heater has a safety switch on the bottom, I wonder why.........!
It's probably so if it falls over it breaks the connection and turns the heater off
@@Richiecandylover that's exactly what it's for
I never use the switch on my heater. i only plug and unplug it.
Until you have to replace your outlet....
VINCE!!!!
Vince video suggestions try fix ant TVs or console
Cool
The springs on one side got hot and annealed and lost their springiness
:D if you buy 1 million of those switches you can get them for around 1 euro / each. :D and in times of Corona good connections are NOT WANTED...but most important: NEVER NEVER NEVER reuse a burnt switch. It will 100% sure fail over time and become really dangerous. In trains we often had burnt switches and some of them even spit out sparks
Oh boy, trying to fix another "Switch", heh?
...heh?
.....right?
Nintendo Switch?