@3Kiwiana honestly it's just a different look. I prefer the look of a 24mm on a crop compared to a full frame bit it's all subjective. If I only have one choice it's full frame.
@@3Kiwiana Not to forget that you get insane reach for the price. The relatively cheaper and lighter 100-400 mm lens becomes a 150-640 mm on my Crop Sensor Body with 32 megapixels. I see people with 24 megapixels full frame body struggling to get that extra reach with the same lens. So, unless you want to grab that costlier and heavier 150-600 mm or equivalent lens, you are left asking for more. However, I would request Jared to compare the R7 to his R6 II for lowlight wildlife photography. Maybe we see some difference in noise.
I must say, I have an R7 and a metabones speedbooster which I tested and it was sharper than viltrox on the edge to edge. But A full frame camera like R6 Mk2 still does take better images after noise cleaning with a wide open fast lens in comparison to R7 + speed booster + the same wide open fast lens. Why? Because it can handle ISO better than 2 times. That's the unfortunate reality. And there's a physical reason for it. The pixel density of the R7 is 3.46 times higher than the R6 or R6 mk2. I've tested the mk2 vs r7 + the speed booster. You've got a 1.6 crop factor*1.6 the square of it*(32.5/24)the megapixels formula to result in better iso handling. So If you put in a .71 adapter there and the square of it, you still get 1.74 times better iso in the 24mp full frame body without the speed booster. That's a reality. Full frame is still better for low light. And yes I tested it. The speed booster with the cropped camera will have a brighter exposure however the iso handling on the full frame can not be match with this trickery. You can take much cleaner dark images by just boosting iso and the cleanup with the AI etc will still end up sharper. Do I like the speed booster + crop body combo? Yes I like it very much. I love the reach without the speed booster on daylight. However yet it's still your lens's entrance pupil diameter vs how much of the light passes thru your lens and how much of that light can your sensor's pixels capture on the same generation of bodies using the same software. That formula doesn't fail. If your pixel density is high and it's the same type of pixel sensor and the same software, the more pixel density you have, the worse light handling you'll have.
Great video! Just to note a speedbooster gives you the FF focal length and ratio whilst gaining a stop of light. E.g. on a FF 50mm f1.4, it gives you that 50mm and F1.4 length/ratio on the aps-c sensor but gives you f1.0 in terms of light gathering.
I put your video on separate tabs so that I could click back and forth to see the difference. Pretty significant with the speedbooster as far as FOV. Bokeh not as noticeable because of the wider view. It seems comparable with the same framing.
I took your advice and bought the Viltrox Speed Booster and used it on the Canon R7. I think it works great! I used it with a couple of different lenses and am very pleased with the results.
I have the video version of this adapter that I bought used; the only difference is that it mounts with a twist lock rather than a click and doesn't have a tripod foot. I'm mostly using it with my Canon EF 70-200 II for basketball. It's partly that we have a very dark gym, and partly because it represents a better focal length range. Works nicely, and doesn't seem to interfere with tracking or image quality to any meaningful degree.
regretting selling all my EF lenses in favor of RF lenses… Now I have R5 with RF lenses and R7 with RF-S lenses as my backup. Putting RF glasses on R7 will lose the wide angle. The speed booster can also be beneficial for R5. The R5 can record over sampled 4K60 from 5k video with 1.6x crop. Combined it with the speed booster it can achieve a similar angle to the full frame. Without cropping, it can only record over-sampled 4k30 from 8k
If you already have ef glass it could work well. Nothing beats the autofocus of native rf lenses though, but this will breath new breath into old lenses.
Oh, sorry, I didn’t realise before that you had links to the gear at Amazon 😮 This put things into a new perspective 👍🏽 Maybe this is the way to go? I guess there will be import tax to Sweden though?
I have this lens on my canon 70D and love it. Yes a little heavy but worth it in my opinion :) great content though Jared, have subscribed. Still undecided between R7 (and would probably invest in the speedbooster if I can find a copy in the uk) or R6ii for my upgrade
The wider field of view is sexy. The extra light is always appreciated, unless you're a pasty guy like you ;p. However you won't get extra bokeh because of speed booster. Just extra light. Which is excellent. 50 1.2 @ .95. Not a bad thing.
Have you tried stopping down? past f/4. Word on the street is there a purple circle in the frame? Affects the Canon adapter, have you seen it on the Viltrox?
I would be curious to see if you get a chance to test it. Seems to affect photos and video.I imagine its a bigger issue with photos than video. @@JaredHoyman
Does the Viltrox speedbooster work? I thought I heard there was AF issues due to Canon's IP infringement. I have the EF 70-200 v1 on my R7, and I love the pictures that come out of that lens.
I ordered an R7 and I want to know how reliable is it with heavy outdoor usage. I read that the R5 has some build issues re the shutter but its a Full frame sensor.
So your description actually has links to two versions of the Viltrox Speed Booster. One link at the top goes to the pro version with the locking ring ($338) and the other link, a bit below that, under equipment you use, goes to the pro version without the locking ring ($288). Both are pretty expensive. My question is, is there any huge advantage with the pro versions versus the standard EF-EOS R version of the Viltrox Speed Booster ($56)?
That's interesting. I have the non pro version and im happy with it. If the pro version has weather sealing it may be worth the extra money because my version doesn't. Otherwise, I'm pretty happy with my version.
The pro version is a positive locking EF, like PL mount. It's more for video when using a FIZ system that can cause the larger cine lenses to shake on an unsteady mount.
1.4 lens on crop sensor have deep of field of 2.10 by adding speedbooster you are reducing the deph of field from that f/ 2.10 not from 1.4... 1.6 crop is not only applied to the focal lenght but also to f-stop you cant produce less deph field with apsc with speedbooster then ff...
Depth of field on a crop is not applied by 1.6. A f2.8 on full frame is the same f2.8 with the exact amount of light on a crop senor. A cropped sensor is exactly what it says. It's a crop of a full frame 35mm sensor and in the case of canon it crops by 1.6. It has nothing to do with f-stop. A speedbooster is called that because it brings in more light than what the lenses base f-stop is or t-stop brings in plus it brings the back element away through reverse magnification blurring more of the back ground than the base f-stop.
1- it does not work in all lenses. Even if you are using it in L lenses. Example, it works very well in a EF70-200 F2.8L but it doesn’t in a EF100-400L. 2- it does not fit in all lenses, specially pancake lenses. Still, I consider it a must have.
Interesting video. Now i wonder what's the quality of the image in the corners. I had the experience with a speedbooster EF-EF-M on my M50 and in the center everything ok. But not so in the corners. Maybe you noticed something while testing? Kind regards and thanks for your advice! Herman(Belgium)
I must say, this is WAY COOL.. lol. I have a two part question; ok.. So looking at this from two different applications as I not only shoot sports, but I like a wide range of other foto work, lets say Hospitality (Hotel work) and Sports.. using the EF C. 70-200 L 2.8 now that I have a R7 if I understand you right, this will make it a f2.0 but maybe not so usable as for shooting in sports anymore due to focus lag. But maybe ok for birds an wildlife. What about the EOS 24mm Would is make it more useable or shooting in hotels an resorts where the need for wider viewing and more light are hyper critical? Or would it just make the EOS 24 into a better street photography lens? -- Sorry to be overly complex just trying to understand the advantage's and limitations of this speed boosting concept.. I have never used a speedbooster just double's like the 1.4 an 2.0. maybe silly but can this be placed on, then a dbl like the 2.0 and say the 70-200L without a major f stop penalty?
ps I used your link on the Mikee adpt. for the EF/EOS to RF great deal on Amz thanks.. this speed booster really seems like it would be great for challenging shots where light is limited, and one is looking to offset the crop factor eating into the view..
I'll do my best to answer what I know and I'll try to make it simple. The speedbooster produces unique looks that will make work stand out. My experience is really only with the Tamron 70-200 g2 and a couple other lenses. I don't shoot action usually so i'm not sure how it will perform. As for interior and architecture you could put the speed booster on the canon 16-35 f4 EF and it would give you an amazing focal length around 18mm and a maximum f-stop of 2.8. For architecture you want to shoot around f8 though to get everything in focus. That being said you may want to just buy the ef-s 10-18 mm which is for crop and will give you the 16mm focal length equivalent not to mention cheaper and lighter. I'm hoping Canon comes out with an RF-S version of that lens soon.
@@JaredHoyman I agree and while I am sure like other RF lens it might not be cheap ~ it would sure be a must have for the job.. And f8 is my baseline especially when dealing with venues and vistas.. That and pool areas I hate to say it but in all my years of photography; pool water is challenging..
good morning, my question is whether you first put the FR adapter on the camera, and then the speed booster? or do you just put the speed booster first on the camera? and is the speed booster also an RF adapter for the EF-S lenses? I don't quite understand this.
The speed booster is an adapter for ef glass so that’s all you need. It only works for full frame glass not ef-s because it expands the exposure to more of the back element of the glass.
Very interesting all around, including the shirt😅, j/k. That white lens showed up out of nowhere😮. I have an address for you to send that other 70-200 with speedbooster you won't be using anymore 👀. Great video as always
LOL. The shirt was my Fathers day gift from my wife. I did have it unbuttoned one down, but I might have sent the wrong message with my chest hair coming out, so I buttoned it all the way for the video. I hope to get some use out of the white lens this weekend so I can report back to you all ;). BTW...I'm keeping the Tamron still. Maybe one day if the channel grows quite a bit I'll have to have a give away on some nice glass.
I know you have R7 and R6MARKII. If you just shoot videos, the anti-shake of R7 is better than that of R6MARKII, right? still have a question. Is there a big difference between R7 and R6MARKII when shooting at night?
For the second question. R6 II is much better in low light. As for the shake and ibis….it depends on the lens. Both handle the 24-70 really well. When you go wider like the 14-35 both have wobble. The new 10-20 rf is said to decrease wobble quite a bit in ibis.
I saw that. I think it is an excellent addition for the canon r7. For me I plan on getting the 10-20 RF full frame lens which will be two fold in its purpose. Problem right now is that it is backordered, so hopefully I can get my hands on it soon.@@babymixswing2269
@@vinvanid oh....RF. I was thinking you said EF. Speedboosters only work with EF glass to RF bodies. But....it will make a good comparison video. I will tell you that the 70-200 f4 rf is the lightest zoom I have ever used on full frame. Big points just on that.
Wrong! Fullframe is much better. I have been using speedboosters for years on fullframe. Shoot in 1.6 crop mode . Or shoot in fullframe mode, deal with vignetting in post if necessary if you don't like it. Meanwhile R6, R8, R5 have much better lowlight, ISO than R7. 😂 shooting nightsky video with Speedbooster on 1.4 lens. ... 1.0 Great for realtime video of northern lights but still need ISO better than R7 does.
It's at least and introduction to the look of full frame for APS-C users who are not sure if they want to go full frame or not. I would be really tempted to do the focal reducers for Medium format lenses onto Canon Full Frame giving .7x of on a full frame. I haven't done enough research to know what speedbooster or medium format lenses to use.
You're right! I looked all over and its no longer out there. The closest thing I found was this one from Meike. Not sure if its any good or not since I have no experience with it. amzn.to/3wdIrp6
@@JaredHoyman thanks! I'm glad there's something-- I really like the price point and features of the r7.. been saving for it for months just for the speed booster to fall off!
If you want that extra stop of light and shallower depth of field with the same lens at a similar focal length of a full frame then its beneficial. There are always the issues of adapting lenses and extra glass that brings up more variable issues that could arise. The original R already has a crop in video so as someone who has owned both I would say R7 would have better image quality with this option in video.
@@JaredHoyman Ah... I don't do video, so I have no experience with that. I do wildlife and landscape photography, which a totally different thing. My kit includes: 1) Canon R 2) Tamron A041 SP 15-30mm f2.8 Di VC USD G2 3) Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2 4) Tamron SP 70-200mm f/2.8 Di USD G2 5) Sigma 60-600mm f/4.5-6.3 DG I run the Sigma on and off with a 2x and 1.4x teleconverter stacked with couple of their extension tubes and am very pleased with the sharpness and detail at extreme distances. I like to use my camera for a spotting scope when I'm out on the local rifle range shooting my rifle at the 1000 yard line. It's perfect for seeing the targets like I'm standing right in front of it, so I'm able to sight in with more confidence and accuracy. 😀
@JaredHoyman It really does. The only problem I have with sharpness is from the heat rising from the ground here in Central Florida, given it's already slightly warm... 😅
I didn’t know Vin Diesel had a brother who does photography. Anyway, good stuff and great voice
😆 maybe I should rename the channel to that.
Hahahaha
I don’t see any advantage to crop sensor, but cost. doesn’t full frame do everything but more than the crop.
@3Kiwiana honestly it's just a different look. I prefer the look of a 24mm on a crop compared to a full frame bit it's all subjective. If I only have one choice it's full frame.
@@3Kiwiana Not to forget that you get insane reach for the price. The relatively cheaper and lighter 100-400 mm lens becomes a 150-640 mm on my Crop Sensor Body with 32 megapixels. I see people with 24 megapixels full frame body struggling to get that extra reach with the same lens. So, unless you want to grab that costlier and heavier 150-600 mm or equivalent lens, you are left asking for more.
However, I would request Jared to compare the R7 to his R6 II for lowlight wildlife photography. Maybe we see some difference in noise.
I must say, I have an R7 and a metabones speedbooster which I tested and it was sharper than viltrox on the edge to edge. But A full frame camera like R6 Mk2 still does take better images after noise cleaning with a wide open fast lens in comparison to R7 + speed booster + the same wide open fast lens. Why? Because it can handle ISO better than 2 times. That's the unfortunate reality. And there's a physical reason for it. The pixel density of the R7 is 3.46 times higher than the R6 or R6 mk2. I've tested the mk2 vs r7 + the speed booster. You've got a 1.6 crop factor*1.6 the square of it*(32.5/24)the megapixels formula to result in better iso handling. So If you put in a .71 adapter there and the square of it, you still get 1.74 times better iso in the 24mp full frame body without the speed booster. That's a reality. Full frame is still better for low light. And yes I tested it. The speed booster with the cropped camera will have a brighter exposure however the iso handling on the full frame can not be match with this trickery. You can take much cleaner dark images by just boosting iso and the cleanup with the AI etc will still end up sharper. Do I like the speed booster + crop body combo? Yes I like it very much. I love the reach without the speed booster on daylight. However yet it's still your lens's entrance pupil diameter vs how much of the light passes thru your lens and how much of that light can your sensor's pixels capture on the same generation of bodies using the same software. That formula doesn't fail. If your pixel density is high and it's the same type of pixel sensor and the same software, the more pixel density you have, the worse light handling you'll have.
Great video!
Just to note a speedbooster gives you the FF focal length and ratio whilst gaining a stop of light. E.g. on a FF 50mm f1.4, it gives you that 50mm and F1.4 length/ratio on the aps-c sensor but gives you f1.0 in terms of light gathering.
You explained that way better than I did. Thank you!
I put your video on separate tabs so that I could click back and forth to see the difference. Pretty significant with the speedbooster as far as FOV. Bokeh not as noticeable because of the wider view. It seems comparable with the same framing.
I took your advice and bought the Viltrox Speed Booster and used it on the Canon R7. I think it works great! I used it with a couple of different lenses and am very pleased with the results.
Heads up Jared if you’re having issues with infinity focus while shooting photography. You can twist the glass on the speed booster to adjust.
I have the video version of this adapter that I bought used; the only difference is that it mounts with a twist lock rather than a click and doesn't have a tripod foot. I'm mostly using it with my Canon EF 70-200 II for basketball. It's partly that we have a very dark gym, and partly because it represents a better focal length range. Works nicely, and doesn't seem to interfere with tracking or image quality to any meaningful degree.
Very cool Thank you for this demo Evaulating cameras for upgrade My uses would be for indoor studio and outdoor nature landscapes
Then a speedbooster on a R7 wouldn't be a bad option to look at. I hope to be able to try it on a EF prime soon and see how it performs.
Nice one would love to see how something like a sigma 85mm 1.4 art lens looks with the speed booster on the r7
That's bot a bad idea.
It would be really cool if there was a medium format to full format speed booster!
I have thought of that and would definitely buy one.
OOooOOoo!! I do have the EF/RF adaptor for my R7 but would love to try out the speed booster on my nifty fifty!😯 Would this be worthwhile?🤔
I think it would. With amazon you do have a 30 day return policy ;)
Or keep the adaptor and you can basically get 2 lenses from the 50 mm
regretting selling all my EF lenses in favor of RF lenses… Now I have R5 with RF lenses and R7 with RF-S lenses as my backup. Putting RF glasses on R7 will lose the wide angle.
The speed booster can also be beneficial for R5. The R5 can record over sampled 4K60 from 5k video with 1.6x crop. Combined it with the speed booster it can achieve a similar angle to the full frame. Without cropping, it can only record over-sampled 4k30 from 8k
For wedding photographer, photo sessions and short clips, it is a good choice??
If you already have ef glass it could work well. Nothing beats the autofocus of native rf lenses though, but this will breath new breath into old lenses.
I have old lens for 5d iii 24 105 , and 50 lens 1.8 , it will work good yeah ?
@@Kkkk-yz7dl Yes, on the aps-c crop of the R7 they will work.
Thank you ❤❤
As someone who does all those things with the R7 I can say yes :P
Oh, sorry, I didn’t realise before that you had links to the gear at Amazon 😮
This put things into a new perspective 👍🏽 Maybe this is the way to go? I guess there will be import tax to Sweden though?
There might be, but you will probably know at checkout. I would be curious if there is.
been looking for this but currently out of stock here in Finland.
Cool! On my "to get someday" list! Thanks!
I have that list too.
I have this lens on my canon 70D and love it. Yes a little heavy but worth it in my opinion :) great content though Jared, have subscribed. Still undecided between R7 (and would probably invest in the speedbooster if I can find a copy in the uk) or R6ii for my upgrade
Thank you! Both are amazing cameras. That's why I own both 😉 one at a time.
The wider field of view is sexy. The extra light is always appreciated, unless you're a pasty guy like you ;p. However you won't get extra bokeh because of speed booster. Just extra light. Which is excellent. 50 1.2 @ .95. Not a bad thing.
Have you tried stopping down? past f/4. Word on the street is there a purple circle in the frame? Affects the Canon adapter, have you seen it on the Viltrox?
@@merlinbk I haven’t tried it yet. From my tests I haven’t experienced the purple haze with viltrox but I haven’t stopped down to f4 either.
I would be curious to see if you get a chance to test it. Seems to affect photos and video.I imagine its a bigger issue with photos than video. @@JaredHoyman
Does the Viltrox speedbooster work? I thought I heard there was AF issues due to Canon's IP infringement. I have the EF 70-200 v1 on my R7, and I love the pictures that come out of that lens.
I have not had a problem with it. It does look like its not available anymore so I don't know if that has anything to do with the infringement.
As a Londoner, I’m more amazed that your drive way is that long.
I bet! Although my house was built right at the turn of the 20th century that is relatively young compared to all your neighborhoods in London.
I ordered an R7 and I want to know how reliable is it with heavy outdoor usage. I read that the R5 has some build issues re the shutter but its a Full frame sensor.
The R7 is very reliable and weather sealed. I’m going on 2yrs this July with it and it performs amazing.
Unfortunately they stopped selling this booster, i read.
So your description actually has links to two versions of the Viltrox Speed Booster. One link at the top goes to the pro version with the locking ring ($338) and the other link, a bit below that, under equipment you use, goes to the pro version without the locking ring ($288). Both are pretty expensive. My question is, is there any huge advantage with the pro versions versus the standard EF-EOS R version of the Viltrox Speed Booster ($56)?
That's interesting. I have the non pro version and im happy with it. If the pro version has weather sealing it may be worth the extra money because my version doesn't. Otherwise, I'm pretty happy with my version.
That is not a speed booster. That is only an adapter (no glass inside, so allows you to use the EF lenses but will still crop like a normal lens)
@@ryancormack6934 Ah! Thanks for pointing that out. I missed that.
The pro version is a positive locking EF, like PL mount. It's more for video when using a FIZ system that can cause the larger cine lenses to shake on an unsteady mount.
O boy , I think I know that small white lens whith the red line.
Look forward to see how that works for you.
I do too. I'll be using it this weekend.
1.4 lens on crop sensor have deep of field of 2.10 by adding speedbooster you are reducing the deph of field from that f/ 2.10 not from 1.4... 1.6 crop is not only applied to the focal lenght but also to f-stop you cant produce less deph field with apsc with speedbooster then ff...
Depth of field on a crop is not applied by 1.6. A f2.8 on full frame is the same f2.8 with the exact amount of light on a crop senor. A cropped sensor is exactly what it says. It's a crop of a full frame 35mm sensor and in the case of canon it crops by 1.6. It has nothing to do with f-stop. A speedbooster is called that because it brings in more light than what the lenses base f-stop is or t-stop brings in plus it brings the back element away through reverse magnification blurring more of the back ground than the base f-stop.
1- it does not work in all lenses. Even if you are using it in L lenses. Example, it works very well in a EF70-200 F2.8L but it doesn’t in a EF100-400L.
2- it does not fit in all lenses, specially pancake lenses.
Still, I consider it a must have.
Why pancake doesn’t fit? I got it to use with my 40mm 2.8 😢
Speedbooster coming in the mail
I would like to test it out on my EF lenses including Primes and see how it performs.
@@JaredHoymanJared, some say that the latest R7 firmware will interfere with the function of speedbooster. How is your experience?
@@JiJa2525u I haven't updated firmware yet. Maybe I'll wait.
Interesting video. Now i wonder what's the quality of the image in the corners. I had the experience with a speedbooster EF-EF-M on my M50 and in the center everything ok. But not so in the corners. Maybe you noticed something while testing? Kind regards and thanks for your advice! Herman(Belgium)
The lenses I have used I have not noticed much vignetting in the corners.
I must say, this is WAY COOL.. lol. I have a two part question; ok.. So looking at this from two different applications as I not only shoot sports, but I like a wide range of other foto work, lets say Hospitality (Hotel work) and Sports.. using the EF C. 70-200 L 2.8 now that I have a R7 if I understand you right, this will make it a f2.0 but maybe not so usable as for shooting in sports anymore due to focus lag. But maybe ok for birds an wildlife. What about the EOS 24mm Would is make it more useable or shooting in hotels an resorts where the need for wider viewing and more light are hyper critical? Or would it just make the EOS 24 into a better street photography lens? -- Sorry to be overly complex just trying to understand the advantage's and limitations of this speed boosting concept.. I have never used a speedbooster just double's like the 1.4 an 2.0. maybe silly but can this be placed on, then a dbl like the 2.0 and say the 70-200L without a major f stop penalty?
ps I used your link on the Mikee adpt. for the EF/EOS to RF great deal on Amz thanks.. this speed booster really seems like it would be great for challenging shots where light is limited, and one is looking to offset the crop factor eating into the view..
I'll do my best to answer what I know and I'll try to make it simple. The speedbooster produces unique looks that will make work stand out. My experience is really only with the Tamron 70-200 g2 and a couple other lenses. I don't shoot action usually so i'm not sure how it will perform. As for interior and architecture you could put the speed booster on the canon 16-35 f4 EF and it would give you an amazing focal length around 18mm and a maximum f-stop of 2.8. For architecture you want to shoot around f8 though to get everything in focus. That being said you may want to just buy the ef-s 10-18 mm which is for crop and will give you the 16mm focal length equivalent not to mention cheaper and lighter. I'm hoping Canon comes out with an RF-S version of that lens soon.
@@JaredHoyman I agree and while I am sure like other RF lens it might not be cheap ~ it would sure be a must have for the job.. And f8 is my baseline especially when dealing with venues and vistas.. That and pool areas I hate to say it but in all my years of photography; pool water is challenging..
good morning, my question is whether you first put the FR adapter on the camera, and then the speed booster? or do you just put the speed booster first on the camera?
and is the speed booster also an RF adapter for the EF-S lenses?
I don't quite understand this.
The speed booster is an adapter for ef glass so that’s all you need. It only works for full frame glass not ef-s because it expands the exposure to more of the back element of the glass.
@@JaredHoyman Thank you very much for the answer. have a nice day.
Very interesting all around, including the shirt😅, j/k. That white lens showed up out of nowhere😮. I have an address for you to send that other 70-200 with speedbooster you won't be using anymore 👀. Great video as always
LOL. The shirt was my Fathers day gift from my wife. I did have it unbuttoned one down, but I might have sent the wrong message with my chest hair coming out, so I buttoned it all the way for the video. I hope to get some use out of the white lens this weekend so I can report back to you all ;). BTW...I'm keeping the Tamron still. Maybe one day if the channel grows quite a bit I'll have to have a give away on some nice glass.
I know you have R7 and R6MARKII. If you just shoot videos, the anti-shake of R7 is better than that of R6MARKII, right?
still have a question. Is there a big difference between R7 and R6MARKII when shooting at night?
For the second question. R6 II is much better in low light. As for the shake and ibis….it depends on the lens. Both handle the 24-70 really well. When you go wider like the 14-35 both have wobble. The new 10-20 rf is said to decrease wobble quite a bit in ibis.
RFS10-18 is a new lens, I don’t know if it solves the problem of image shake.@@JaredHoyman
I saw that. I think it is an excellent addition for the canon r7. For me I plan on getting the 10-20 RF full frame lens which will be two fold in its purpose. Problem right now is that it is backordered, so hopefully I can get my hands on it soon.@@babymixswing2269
ok.you will buy RF10-20. great. I found that if I just walked and talked to the camera. Pocket3 is a good choice. What do you think?@@JaredHoyman
Yeah, good luck finding this for sale anywhere.
I’m amazed by your voice!!!
Thank you!
Thank you 🍻
I hope it helped.
Does speedbooster work with RF 70-200 F4L ?
I would think it would but I don't have it to test.
@@JaredHoyman I thought you have it, you just show the lens in the end of this video 🤣
@@vinvanid oh....RF. I was thinking you said EF. Speedboosters only work with EF glass to RF bodies. But....it will make a good comparison video. I will tell you that the 70-200 f4 rf is the lightest zoom I have ever used on full frame. Big points just on that.
I WISH I COULD FIND ONE
They appear to be discontinues. Try eBay.
@@JaredHoyman I’m looking but no luck yet :)
لا تشتريه انه غير ثابت و يسبب خلل مع نظام الكامرة بشكل مزعج
Sorry, that gear isn't heavy...
Wrong! Fullframe is much better. I have been using speedboosters for years on fullframe. Shoot in 1.6 crop mode . Or shoot in fullframe mode, deal with vignetting in post if necessary if you don't like it. Meanwhile R6, R8, R5 have much better lowlight, ISO than R7. 😂 shooting nightsky video with Speedbooster on 1.4 lens. ... 1.0 Great for realtime video of northern lights but still need ISO better than R7 does.
It's at least and introduction to the look of full frame for APS-C users who are not sure if they want to go full frame or not. I would be really tempted to do the focal reducers for Medium format lenses onto Canon Full Frame giving .7x of on a full frame. I haven't done enough research to know what speedbooster or medium format lenses to use.
Aaand now it’s gone 😭
You're right! I looked all over and its no longer out there. The closest thing I found was this one from Meike. Not sure if its any good or not since I have no experience with it. amzn.to/3wdIrp6
@@JaredHoyman thanks! I'm glad there's something-- I really like the price point and features of the r7.. been saving for it for months just for the speed booster to fall off!
I'm sorry, but I have this speed booster and you know it's very good, but it doesn't make the R7 better than the R.
If you want that extra stop of light and shallower depth of field with the same lens at a similar focal length of a full frame then its beneficial. There are always the issues of adapting lenses and extra glass that brings up more variable issues that could arise. The original R already has a crop in video so as someone who has owned both I would say R7 would have better image quality with this option in video.
@@JaredHoyman Ah... I don't do video, so I have no experience with that.
I do wildlife and landscape photography, which a totally different thing.
My kit includes:
1) Canon R
2) Tamron A041 SP 15-30mm f2.8 Di VC USD G2
3) Tamron SP 24-70mm f/2.8 Di VC USD G2
4) Tamron SP 70-200mm f/2.8 Di USD G2
5) Sigma 60-600mm f/4.5-6.3 DG
I run the Sigma on and off with a 2x and 1.4x teleconverter stacked with couple of their extension tubes and am very pleased with the sharpness and detail at extreme distances.
I like to use my camera for a spotting scope when I'm out on the local rifle range shooting my rifle at the 1000 yard line.
It's perfect for seeing the targets like I'm standing right in front of it, so I'm able to sight in with more confidence and accuracy. 😀
@@RealCptHammonds that is awesome! Those converters must make a world of a difference for zooming in.
@JaredHoyman It really does. The only problem I have with sharpness is from the heat rising from the ground here in Central Florida, given it's already slightly warm... 😅
R? You kidding… the old eos R is an old discontinued dinosaur…
I have used both at the same time and the R7 beats the heck out of the eos R…