Efficient Campus Board Training | Adam Ondra's Training Series Ep.3
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- In part three of our new training series with Adam Ondra, we catch up with the man himself at his home climbing gym in Brno, Czech Republic. This time, we're looking at campus boarding, which Adam considers to be one of the most efficient training tools available to climbers. Adam urges caution, however, as improper technique is a one way ticket to finger injury.
He's completely posessed when he switches on, haha. Such a nerdy character with this psycho inner beast, a real character.
"You should be climbing AT LEAST a 7b route.. "
I don't belong here.. sayonara
😂😂 me too
I think you could also be climbing 6C+ or 7A boulders, similar finger strength required.
I’ve been climbing 6 times and asked my friend if I should by a hang board and he went “ no way” turns out it can injure u hella bad
instablaster.
It's true...
Those double dynos using two fingers blew my mind! That is power
1-5-9 is way harder. belive me. its like a muscle up on 4 fingers
BEAST
Adam is such an character, thank you, awesome video!
Coming a year later to remind you to watch the Road to Tokyo series
Very informative, love these videos! Thanks for posting and thanks for taking the time to do these training vids Adam!
Magnus midtbo just posted a video showing him ATTEMPTING 1-5-9. that just put into perspective how impossible this move actually is
Check Yves Gravelle then
@@francescosallustio8860 Sick.. I'm sure there are plenty of ultra strong climbers that can do things beyond even the 1-5-9. But most of us normal human, arguably more than 99.9% of us can't do anything that come even close was my point
1-6-10 Of Yves Gravelle, then try Yves Squeeze..
Thanks for giving it to us straight brother. Love your energy
Pause the video and just look at his forearms when he's campusing the upside down slopers
Just another level of climbing, epic video!
This guy is such an inspiration. :)
The uplifting soft rock towards the end while he is making ungodly guttural moans and groans is pretty hilarious tbh
Are the campus slopers considered less dangerous than say, the finger board or bars? Assuming they put much less strain on finger tendons, are they ok for beginners? Preferably static hanging over dynamic moves or slow controlled moves in general? Would love some input from people with more experience than me =)
sorry u never got that input bro
i dont even understand the undercling on slopers with no feet part
It's the answer to the "squeeze harder" dilema :o
I was thinking exactly the same thing.
Can't you see what needs to be done . Focus
Even tho he can't he trys his hardest every time
They are circular pinches
"Campus board training" IN REALITY: Ondra doing things we could never dream of
I feel like for 7B, finger strength is needed that can't only be coming from climbing alone. maybe hangboard instead of campus then?
Depending on how genetics, it is possible for sure. I bouldered F7b just from climbing. A lot of it is learning technique too. Climbing since I was 10 though so long time
Campus, destroyer of the show off.
amazing.
We have a campus board set up in our gym that allows you to use small footholds. I have only been bouldering for 4 months and my top grade is 7a+. I just started using the campus board and I can really feel the difference in strength even after 2 weeks. You can rarely get such pure power training on the wall. Definitely start doing campus training, if you can manage to do it safely! This way your strength improves with your technique and you won't hit a wall because you are just too weak.
If you've been climbing for only 4 months, you're not really climbing 7a...lol
@@tblends Well I am climbing 7C now so I dont know whether it was 7A+ 2 years ago but it might have been. I climbed first 7A without any climbing training. Anyway, afterall I dont find the campus board that helpfull and havent done it really at all
@@tblends I have seen it. People who start climbing when already very strong can power through a lot.
@@tblendsyou just need to get stronger bro
The booger from episode 2 returned!
American ninja warrior man
So much power, damn!!
i’m literally perfect, just hit my 2 years of climbing, just did my first 7b+, and 16 isn’t that mind blowing guys
shut up
this is fucking ridiculous. definition of beast mode.
Thanks Adam for such wise advices. Long story short: do not train on campus board if you're not climbing 7b/+. You're not going to climb 7b in your first two years anyways, you'll stay away from injuries.
Antoine Blanchet disagree. U dont have to be able to climb 7b+ to campus. Some people dont even lead. They only boulder. So campusing helps for them. Need at least 1 years of exp before can campus minimally.
I don't understand why you mention lead climbing, grades apply to bouldering too and I still think that under 7b/+ even bouldering you should not train on hanging or campus boards. It will eventually lead to injuries but also to physical first approach to climbing. In my opinion you climb best when you're "lazy" ie. try to find the easiest way to climb. If you're tough and you one arm pull up on two fingers you'll tend to power through moves and will eventually hit a maximum level when some technic will be required. Train your technic first by climbing a lot of different things (and avoiding things like "I don't like slabs" etc), and then when your technic is okay you can train your power. But it's just my opinion ;)
Well everyone have their own opinion. I have climbed for 10 years exactly hence i have my own opinion. Cheers man.
7 months of rock climbing and im onsighting 7a+ and redpointing 7b/+ routes
street orang good job! Same for me man last time cos im very light. So i get strong very fast. I dont even do campusboard/hangboard until i reach my plateau...which is after climbing for 1 year 4 months.
So much power. Beast
If you want to increase the intensity of the training you can do more reps or sets or use weights
Adam says f*** it at 4:52
The word is "fuck".
1-5-9 is just a dream to me...1-5 is doable, but the 5-9 part...is not
You need to learn 1 arm pullups
Weaker right arm ? Hmmmmmmm , something is not adding up here boiiis =D
The truth is that , i have started to wonder if we are the same species after all XD
Go Go Go Go our Majestic Jirafe ^_^
Maybe 1-5-8 and 1-5-9 decides whether you are able to climb 9b(+) or a 9c
I want to buy a campus board but I dont have the place to make it overhanging does it need to be overhanging?
Love Climbing yea otherwise your body will rub into it
You can build/buy one that sits on a door frame, this way you'll have ample space below it for your body.
5:24
2:36 starts
I feel fat.
What is a 7B in the Yosemite system? I can do 5.12-5.13 at the hardest. Been climbing for 2 years
Climbing 9c+
He has such a long neck lol
he has such a long neck :-O
whats the best way to train for me (im 11 years old)
You could practice technique and agile climbing like on boulders. Muscle coordination and a good overall sense of your body will help you in many sports and is best learned early on.
Also patience and a positive attitude is key. Most things in life are very hard the first few times, but when you are open to new approaches and willing to learn, you can achive a lot. Be nice to yourself and others. Persistence and peacefulness will pay you back a million times.
Strength and endurance is easier and safer to gain when you are adult. Don't push yourself too hard. Bones and tendons are strongest around 30. Many young adults train strength excessively and have the muscle power to do risky moves that their tendons cannot support and they thus will break. Be nice to your body and keep in mind that your muscles are the part adapting the fastest. Other parts might need some more time.
Also stretching before and after sport is important to keep agile. Doing sports without ever stretching will make you a very unagile and stiff person. I recommend you do Pilates or even meditate. Having a calm and clear mind is helpful in many ways, not only sports.
I hope some of this was helpful, even though it was most likely too much.
Best wishes
Hans Woast
excellent advice Hans, the key word in campus boarding is TENDON, the tendons take far longer to train and condition than muscles and tendon injuries take far longer to heal. Plyometric/ssc training can only be done safely a maximum of twice weekly even by highly trained, Olympic-level athletes. A very gradual approach is good, considering where one wants to be in a few years rather than a few months, there is saying- make haste slowly. Having fun is the most important aspect in my opinion, if you listen to most accomplished climbers or other athletes for that matter they seem to enjoy what they do each day even before they "became successful". Happy climbing 🙂
I know you asked 2 years ago. However I do not recommend campus boarding until at least 16 years old. I started using a campus board when I was 13. Against the advice of more experienced climbers. I am now 30 years old and my tendons and joints are fucked. Maybe it's not because I campus boarded at such a young age.
Enjoy climbing for now. Leave the campus board for a few more years.
:O
Any armwrestlers watching this?
''Campusing is very dangerous and you should be careful about it'' proceeds to do stupid hard and injury inducing moves ''dont try this a home kids''
it's a warning for people who may not be fit enough for it. not sure what your point is.
His neck is so long
U have to be climbing for two years:I’m good
U have to be able to climb at least 7b: cool I can keep going
U have to be above 15 years: shoot I gotta go.
stfu