Repairing older Briggs recoil starter that wont engage or sometimes wont engage or screams

Watch as I repair this older (1980's) recoil starter which just spins and wont turn the engine.
This repair also will fix a recoil that screams and screeched loudly while running.
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[@MrIgottap]

Thanks man! My Troy Bilt Horse’s pull start was beginning to act up but hadn’t completely failed yet. Didn’t have any screaming, grinding or other scary noises yet, it just wouldn’t grab hold and spin the motor. I was pretty sure it was just some dirt and/or rust giving me some grief and taking care of it sooner rather than later was a good idea. Watching your video was just what I needed and a nice “walk through”. Puller’s pullin’ good now! How could I not “like and subscribe”? Have a great day!

[@rastacat23]

Appreciate your thorough video, had the same problem with mine. My bearings were almost as shot as yours, so I opted to get a brand new clutch starter rather than trying to rehab something that was so shot. I was also told by my local small engine repair guy that the shaft has to be COMPLETELY free of anything that will cause friction. If you're happy with the way you cleaned your shaft, more power to you. I started with coarse emery cloth, then medium, then fine. Then I used 600, 1500, and 2500 grit until the surface of the shaft looked like a mirror. There were deep pits that I couldn't completely get rid of, but they are below the surface. The rest of the shaft is smooth as glass. I was told if you don't fully polish that shaft, you'll end up having the same problem in no time. I am putting everything back together and testing it out tomorrow. I hope your repair holds up!

[@msamour]

You Sir are a life saver! I have the exact same engine on a roto spader giving me a hard time. I will take apart the clutch and clean it. I get to use my ultrasonic parts cleaner. Thank you so much!

[@devonwright3075]

Thanx for the video, it's dark where I am right now, but I can't wait until the morning so me and my son can take our apart on our go kart! Thanx dude!

[@Kangsteri]

There is an oil hole in the end of that shaft with small peace of felt in it, that you need to lubricate. You can get new peace of felt from thick wool inlays for shoes. The bearing chamber can be lubricated with silicone spray. On newer models there is also some plastic washers inside the bearing chamber, to make it slip better. I made the washers from old plastic credit- / bonus card. You can also seal the seam from outside with some Vaseline.

[@thomas6789]

Good stuff, my go kart with the same engine would squeal like a damn pig randomly while the engine was running. Figured it was something with the recoil spring as the rope would get all wound up in a big knot, but as it turns out I’ve just got a old rusty shaft!

[@wlester66]

Thank you this was exactly what I needed my brother

[@jcwildwood]

Glad I could help

[@billvanriper8279]

Rip nice video i was always wondering what was causing that screeching sound gonna tear it down today and fix it thank you for the info have a nice day

[@daisyduke1064]

Very very good video my dad was having the same issue on a 5 horsepower engine thank you very much good job

[@markhanson8366]

Nice work! Classic field fix-well done!

[@poochie49]

I just did this to my old 8HP Briggs. The only PIA I found is trying to replace the clutch onto the shaft. In a horizontal shaft engine as you try to replace the clutch onto the shaft there is a loose washer inside the clutch assembly that keeps falling and you can't slide the clutch onto the shaft without somehow keeping the washer centered. Eventually I had to put a dab of grease inside to keep the washer centered. Just my 2 cents.

[@johnhicks735]

It was rusty due not being lubrication inside of those ball bearings and yes they actually should be oiled up about 1/4 of motor oil.,or two.,or three squirt's of 3&1 oil down inside of that wick. I usually do both for extra protection against that problem alone myself. In the worst case scenario is that the oil Will turn milky looking. Inside due to moisturize getting inside of the cap. From A leaking cap spindle seal worn out.,or torn.,or brittle.,or etc. from excessive usage through out it's life time span of being on the engine and machine itself over the years. Oil not protects against friction wear it also helps to keep those internal parts moving freely. So I'll half to disagree on the you half to oil that up part.

[@TinyDancer007]

I'm going to stop right here at the bolts and qritique your method.
You had two options; heat or wd40. If you didn't have heat to apply, wd40 spayed onto the bolt, retightened, and then left for a while will have loosened the bolt.

[@garyclifton2180]

Nice fix

[@josephburkhalter5105]

Put a little oil on the threads you can reach with the dip stick. Rub the threads you can reach with the oil wet dip stick….screw the bolt back in a ways to lube the threads. This should avoid breaking the bolt.
JoeB

[@iRepairElectronics]

I thought the devil himself was inside my engine when this thing started screaming at me. worse than the wife when i come home drunk. Thanks a bunch.

[@seanflynn6451]

Awesome. no chance of spraying wd-40 in toward it? the log splitter is not mine and i dont want to screw it up during dissasembly :)

[@immrnoidall]

RUSTY BOLT, Spay it and walk away for 10-20 minutes. If you get some threads showing, get some oil on them and go back in with a few times. those bolts snap off easy. definitely clean it up good before you put it back in.

[@sfdoc5]

Does anyone know what model number this motor is?
I have one that I need a new pull starter

[@stevesmith6058]

You really should put never Sez on them

[@lomgshorts3]

Well, to get the screw out, most real mechanics use a penetrating solvent, eh?

[@brad2548]

It's an engine not a motor. Engines are combustible. Motors are electric.