I with how you how to make copies of your work using sandcasting along with how to make new castings with the help of a 3d printer. Big thanks to Ridge for sending me this wallet and supporting the channel! Here’s the site if you want to check them out. bit.ly/RidgeWallet-GomeowCreations Use Code “GOMEOW” for 10% off your order! 😁👍 ***If you are looking to by one of the solid silver scarabs place email me, first come first served*** GomeowCrations@gmail.com ELEGOO Mars 2 Pro Mono Resin 3D Printer - amzn.to/32SnfU2 Cast Iron 2-Part Flask Mold - amzn.to/3py0ZIF Aluminum 2-Piece 100 MM Round Mold - amzn.to/38PxwnO 4.4 Lbs Delft Clay - amzn.to/3nC35pn *Cheaper but not as detailed* 5 Lb Petrobond Casting Sand - amzn.to/3nsSCfG Cast Iron 2-Part Flask Mold with Petrobond Casting Sand Kit - amzn.to/2ILJ40x Cheap Metal Melting Furnace - amzn.to/2H6IPwf Electro-Melt Melting Furnace - bit.ly/Electro-MeltMeltingFurnace Smiths little Torch - bit.ly/SmithLittleTorch5tips Smith Little Torch Rosebud Tip - amzn.to/3kDPSKs Baby Powder - amzn.to/3nwWA6Y Scraper/Chopper Stainless Steel - amzn.to/3lGX6ic Sheet Cake Pan - amzn.to/3nwF1nO Brass Hammer - amzn.to/3f684vb Ceramic Crucible - amzn.to/3pA0w8O The maker of the 3D Files that I used instagram.com/the.jewelry.fantasy/ If you are looking for more tools and materials that I use, well you're in luck! I made a page on my website just for that and I'm updating all the time so bookmark it to stay up to date: GomeowCreations.com/tools-and-materials GomeowCreations.com/partners-discount-codes *If you buy any of the tools or materials from my list I will make a small commission at no extra charge to you and it helps support the channel* ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you would like to directly support the channel you can do so in a few different ways. If you would like to directly support the channel you can do so in a few different ways. 1. Like, comment and share my videos 2. You can make a one time donation via Paypal of any amount www.paypal.me/gomeowcreations 3. You can sign up a monthly donation via my patreon for as little as $1 per month www.patreon.com/GomeowCreations 4. You can sign up a monthly donation via my Subscribestar for as little as $1 per month www.subscribestar.com/gomeowcreations 5. Just watching my videos helps out too and I'm happy to see that I have been able to help some may people get into jewelry making. #delfcasting #delfclay #sandcasting #jewellerymaking #jewelrymaking #goldmaking #silversmithing #diy #gomeowcreations
I've been a jeweler for 34 years, a nice tip for you, moisten a paper towel and run over the edges of the object in the mold before you pull it. Preserves the edges. Nice video!
Having had a job as an artisan at a bronze foundry for a few years, I think most of your defects are shrink deficits and insufficient vents. To minimize shrink deficits, you need wider gates and sprues, but mostly you need to make a pour cup large enough to keep feeding them as they cool, preventing them from separating and cutting off the flow of molten metal. My castings of everything from figurines to monuments had minimal to no shrink deficits, so I think this will at least reduce the shrink deficits.
Also, as someone who once owned a foundry, I would say that the "texture" or graininess of the casting (which can affect how clear the detail comes out) is due to either, a) Insufficient vents or vents that could have a better design (as @nunyabusiness9043NunyaBiz said), and/or b) the metal being too hot (or possibly needing to be fluxed/degassed). There are a few other things you could do in the molding process that might make it a bit easier, and possibly produce a better result, but overall a very cool video. I really enjoyed it. Nice job and I'm glad you're sharing this.
And you should put the piece face up on the table, put the cope and clay on top making a tight print coat. Flip, make a pour funnel/feeder and vents, put on drag and pack clay, separate, refine sprue and vents, remove piece, etc
Hey randy! Another way you can do things with flat backs is by putting the back on the table first. Then you sprinkle fine clay on top to get the details in, then start packing heavy sand on top of that. It captures the details best from what I've seen. Hope that helps!
Thank you and yeah this is a very simple way to do casting but like your said not perfect. Lost wax casting is the way to go if you are wanting things to be perfect 😅👍
Thank you for your fine tutorial. I was able to reproduce an antique brass drawer pull using your method. I used a different method to melt, the metal pail with lump charcoal. Your method of making the mould was my guide. I am very grateful to you. Btw, your taste in jewelry pieces is excellent.
With flat back items there is no need to do a split cast just form the drag over it, place flat cope on top this will pretty much eliminate the edge flash.
You mention having issues with getting perfect results around the 24 minute mark - have you tried olivine sand? I haven't worked with it personally, but i've seen it pop up in discussions about fine-mesh casting sands. Another thing to try would be to incorporate your vents and sprue into the 3d printed master, so you're not knocking around loose sand as you're cutting them. Also, for 2D pieces like that medallion, you can design a threaded hole into the piece and when it comes time to remove it from the mold, simply screw a screw into it and use that screw as a handle to lift the piece out.
Dude, I thank you! I have watched many videos about this and am only 6 months in on melting and now casting items, i like to find interesting things and re create them with the exact same flask and sand your using. I've had so many hiccups until today. After watching this twice i put on my big boy pants and tried for the 8th time to replicate a "punisher bottle opener/multitool" i found. It was flat on both sides but had some detail and notches and holes which i was never able to get right, until now. I did it 3 times following your method and came out great. the drill bit for a spru was a great idea! Just saying thank you and I'm off to melt and make more stuff!!
This video was really useful. I have only tried a. Small amount of wax carving and have difficulty turning the flat design into a 3 d design. Thankyou Patsy
Might I suggest old cut up tire inner-tubes to hold the flask together. Awesome! I've been pouring into graphite & wood I carve out, but I can only do so much with that, and graphite is so messy. I look like a coal miner or chimney sweep after I'm all done. Thanks for all the tips, and thank you 4 crushing 👊🏼🐻
From my experience as a defence braze and pipe fitter, I can say that pitting is usually the result of a dirty surface (not enough flux[borax]) or not having enough air outlets for air to escape. Also it looks like you have some shrink defects.
I'm concerned about how toxic 3-D Resin printing is. I was going to go with that, until I saw a video showing how the air continues to be at a maximum hazard even hours after printing. That's with people using ventilation as well..... Would it be possible to use PLA filament in an FDM 3-D printer, and still do fine in sand or clay casting? Maybe the answer should be obvious but I'm new to 3-D printing.
Nice explanation and video, what i saw in other tutorial is that they make the canal with a curve, not straight, could be that a reason that some pieces you get that irregular part?
Hello there! Nice video! What kind of torch did you use? How much time did it take you to melt silver? Can I melt a small amount of copper with this torch?
Haha , when you uncovered your piece I said " pretty cool at the same time you did lol.. yup definitely cool thanks for the info. I can't wait to get into this
Great tutorial as always...maybe you could add a little peg to the back of the printed template, in the design phase, to be able to pull it out of the sand easily.
back in HS we never tossed out the burnt oil sand. Just mixed it back in and away we go. It would last a very very long time even with burnt bits. It would over time darken the sands but the teacher would just refresh it a bit over the course of the year and we did loads of sand casting in our shop. So when you did the second side that was literally flat why on earth did you pack it on top of the other one? We used aluminum, copper and bronze. I liked the aluminum and bronze the most.
i would honestly not worry how they work out like i sed in the first one they look genuine they look good dings chips wangs make them look good aged leave well alone
I'm a fan of your page and I would just like to list a few know-how things that you may be able to do videos on that I would absolutely love to watch 1. the full process of melting, recycled tin, aluminum/aluminium, glass, clay, or plastic and, casting/ printing them for different creations. 2. A video over your creations as a artist 3. 3d prints, your printer of choice with a review and, your printing process 4. laser printed mold process if you're familiar with this and have the devices to do so / laser prints 5. axidraw stuff and the processes, if you also have experience in this kind of field. 6. your creative process 7. your choice of 3d print filaments 8. reviews reviews reviews 9. your experience marketing your art 10. videos where you experiment 11. what got you into these kinds of things and your story You and your videos are highly appreciated!
@@GomeowCreations maybe pushing the clay down more into the ingot would make a difference, but they are all one of a kind because of the slight imperfections.
Beginner's question: what is better to use this method with casting sand or use the method with plaster mold casting? the plaster casting looks like be the industry standard and I am not sure but looks like can be done in artisanal way too, I ask because the pieces from plaster cast are sharp and clean while this ones with clay arent as shrarp
Vacuum casting is going to be the way to go with castings things with details. You can do some nice castings in sand but you have to limit the details.
I saw some casters using a small air bellows to remove dust and a sitck with glue to lift the 3D Print up without damaging the impression in the clay. Could that help?
I've watched many casting videos, you're first to say carve the air escape channels on back side of sand and that MAPP gas is borderline for melting the silver. Good to know. Were you using true delft clay? It looks kinda coarse.
Thanks and yeah I found out it's not true delft clay once I got everything wrapped up on shooting the video but I have some some on order now and will be doing a comparison video between the two soon 😁👍
You could improve the quality by improving the ventilation and sprues and by adding a pour funnel that can provide molten metal as the casting cools, reducing bubbles and shrink deficits.
Graphite powder instead of baby powder on the delft clay surface that comes in contact with the hot brass, silver etc gives a nicer surface , less pitting. Other tip: make first some copies of your model in lead or pewter in your delft clay, using baby powder ( graphite does not improve the pewters surface) now you have a multiple good positives to put in the delft clay. About the scarab: I did 12 brass smileys last week, 6,5 cm diameter and 4,5 mm thick, and the first one I did flask laying flat, details down, flat side up. The pooring channel in the centre if the smiley. Result: a lot of pitting on back and even front. Next poor, I made the pooring channel 2 cm outside the smiley, cutting the entry channel from there horizontally into the smiley. Result: 100% better. Used graphite to cover the clay surface. So, just my bit here...
What is the best and most economical heat source and torch for melting the silver ? I have been using propane with a regular torch, silver will melt but won’t flow. Please help 😁
@@MrLuvbizwaryes... specially gold and silver... It would take 5 to 10 minutes to melt gold in a microwave if its 24k gold... If its an alloy mixed with another metal then it will take 10 to 15 minutes depending on the amount and stiff...so you will have to keep checking on it every 10 minutes
@@trollface391 Well I tried it. Didn't work out as expected. My dick is now stuck in the toaster. I think I might have misinterpreted the instructions. Thanks for your help anyways.
I tried for my first time to sandcast a pendant , i’m not sure if I did say over or what happened but I wish there was someway I could send you a picture of what I did, and you could tell me or give me some tips on what I did wrong or what I need to do the next time I try to cast this piece. Can you help me. Deborah
@@GomeowCreations thank you for the reply. I ordered the kit. Was just wondering if I needed to get extra sand.. I read a review stating it takes 10lbs to pack the mold so I was curious
Hey-- I dont know if you'll ever see this comment, but I'm trying to make a medallion with no experience and have a question. Why does the model have to be 3d printed in resin? Why can't it be done in regular plastic filament, and if it can what are the issues that using resin resolves? I only have access to a regular 3d printer and im wondering if it's still possible.
Idk. I have never seen a stainless steel one. I have cast iron molds and they work fine for me. Just make sure to oil them so things don't get stuck and heat them up before you pour the metal in
You can reuse the burnt sand. It’s only black because the oil has been burned off of it. Just crush and rehydrate with 40w motor oil or mineral oil. Spray lightly. You want the sand to just stick together. No moisture should be able to be squeezed out. If you can squeeze moisture out. Leave it out in the open for a day or a couple. Check on it regularly and stir it often. Always store in an airtight container. (Don’t use Tupperware, it’s not actually airtight)
I came for the 3D printing. I stayed for the Horror. Having worked in 2 foundries, I see so much done wrong. Use G clams to hold the mould together It reduces flashing. Never rubber bands. Why press the pattern into the flat surface? it creates the missing parts. Place it on top and create the second part of the mould. for more 3D patterns make half in the mould bottom and half in the top. Print the sprue with the pattern where possible. it saves time. for instance.. With the scarab I would print a sprue to the right size for the mould. Pack the sand around it and make it flat. add the the scarab face up and the second part of the mould and pack the sand on top. Then extract the patterns (use a small screw hole on the sprue.) and if you are smart a tab on the scarab when you made space for it on the sprue pattern. Create some vent holes, clamp it tightly and then pour the metal
Oh yeah I definitely did a lot wrong in this video. And have definitely learned a lot since then, here's a video I did on Lost wax casting and 3D printing along with 3D scanning ruclips.net/video/t2H_lV8IOyY/видео.html
So if you want a resin printer like the one that I used to make this one I really suggest the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. Here is a link amzn.to/3eUlAE3 It is a little bigger than the first mars and it has a monochrome screen so you can print things about 2x faster. You can also get the Anycubic Mono, it has a bigger print area and is cheaper than the Mars. It also has a monochrome screen so it is basically the same thing, here is a link to it amzn.to/3vFBkkw When it comes to the resin for them it really depends on what you are wanting to make. I used some resin from PowerResins to make this skull. Here is a link to it and and discount code bit.ly/JewelryResinsPowerResins 250g or 1kg 15% off - Code GOM15 I have also used BlueCast resins in the past and they seem to work really good as well. bit.ly/BlueCastX10LCD Use Code GOMEOW5OFF to save $5 on your order of BlueCast Products But if you want to make other things that don't need to be used in a burn out oven there is a wide variety of resins on the market for all kinds of applications. If you want a FDM printer, basically one that uses filament to print you can get a basic ender 3 to start and modify it to your liking later on if you need to. I have 6 modified ender3 printers and they do a great job but they can't do the details that a resin printer can. Here is a link to one amzn.to/3ePMbCo If you have any more questions please let me know. 😁👍
I wonder if you would mind telling me the part of the country where you grew up. You use an interesting dialectical phrase I have heard occasionally and have always wondered the region where it is used.
I prefer the UNperfect version of that ( min 1:40 ) instead of the more ''perfect one'' , i just think it LOOKS more ''old'' (as if its from ancient times) ,i personally just like old-looking things more (as a collector of a lot of small figures or jewelry from mainly asia :india/thailand & china)
The back of your item is flat. Why do you need the top layer of the flask when you can just pour your metal directly on the other half as you would an ingot? I’m confused.
The silver is too turbulent when filling your mold. That's the reason for the pitting. It's either air or sand that moved from the turbulence of the molten silver.
as a moulder 4get the lump hammer use a wooden mallet and u dont need 2 use a brush just sprinkle it over the mould and u only need the draw lines at bottom as u r puoring from the top .myself i would have gone from the side and made 2 instead of 1.u have a lot 2 learn there should have been no flashing as we called it.less grinding.sorry but next time use the drill in the begining instead of doing it later part 2 lay the flat side down 1st and get some bellows
@@GomeowCreations make space for something to go inside the band? The top layer of sand wouldn't do that for me?, what would I use to fill that space that wouldnt burn or fuse to the poured metal👀? Sorry if these are bad questions im still pretty new tryna grasp the essence of whats going on here haha . I appreciate your patience and tips!
@@GomeowCreations im trying to figure out the best way to recreate metal clay rings. Making them out of clay is pretty easy but if i could just cast several copies afterwards, that would be very valuable knowledge
I have never done this and just do rings by hand or vacuum casting but you could pack down a cylinder of sand that would fit throw the ring. It's not easy to do from what I have seen.
Oddly light silver. Those look to be about the size of 1 oz rounds, yet weigh half as much. I'm fairly certain it's the depth of the piece, but....the depth actually looks about right too, and you have the scarab section that's popping out, which should add some weight. No much, but some. Even if this was sterling silver; 7.5% copper, which weighs roughly 5.5g to silvers 6.5g for the same cubic area of material. It would at most account for about a gram of weight or so.
I with how you how to make copies of your work using sandcasting along with how to make new castings with the help of a 3d printer.
Big thanks to Ridge for sending me this wallet and supporting the channel! Here’s the site if you
want to check them out. bit.ly/RidgeWallet-GomeowCreations Use Code “GOMEOW” for 10% off your order! 😁👍
***If you are looking to by one of the solid silver scarabs place email me, first come first served***
GomeowCrations@gmail.com
ELEGOO Mars 2 Pro Mono Resin 3D Printer - amzn.to/32SnfU2
Cast Iron 2-Part Flask Mold - amzn.to/3py0ZIF
Aluminum 2-Piece 100 MM Round Mold - amzn.to/38PxwnO
4.4 Lbs Delft Clay - amzn.to/3nC35pn
*Cheaper but not as detailed* 5 Lb Petrobond Casting Sand - amzn.to/3nsSCfG
Cast Iron 2-Part Flask Mold with Petrobond Casting Sand Kit - amzn.to/2ILJ40x
Cheap Metal Melting Furnace - amzn.to/2H6IPwf
Electro-Melt Melting Furnace - bit.ly/Electro-MeltMeltingFurnace
Smiths little Torch - bit.ly/SmithLittleTorch5tips
Smith Little Torch Rosebud Tip - amzn.to/3kDPSKs
Baby Powder - amzn.to/3nwWA6Y
Scraper/Chopper Stainless Steel - amzn.to/3lGX6ic
Sheet Cake Pan - amzn.to/3nwF1nO
Brass Hammer - amzn.to/3f684vb
Ceramic Crucible - amzn.to/3pA0w8O
The maker of the 3D Files that I used instagram.com/the.jewelry.fantasy/
If you are looking for more tools and materials that I use, well you're in luck! I made a page on my website just for that and I'm updating all the time so bookmark it to stay up to date:
GomeowCreations.com/tools-and-materials
GomeowCreations.com/partners-discount-codes
*If you buy any of the tools or materials from my list I will make a small commission at no extra charge to you and it helps support the channel*
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you would like to directly support the channel you can do so in a few different ways.
If you would like to directly support the channel you can do so in a few different ways.
1. Like, comment and share my videos
2. You can make a one time donation via Paypal of any amount www.paypal.me/gomeowcreations
3. You can sign up a monthly donation via my patreon for as little as $1 per month www.patreon.com/GomeowCreations
4. You can sign up a monthly donation via my Subscribestar for as little as $1 per month www.subscribestar.com/gomeowcreations
5. Just watching my videos helps out too and I'm happy to see that I have been able to help some may people get into jewelry making.
#delfcasting #delfclay #sandcasting #jewellerymaking #jewelrymaking #goldmaking #silversmithing #diy #gomeowcreations
😁
painfully slow. unprofessional. full of wrong terms. waste of time
I've been a jeweler for 34 years, a nice tip for you, moisten a paper towel and run over the edges of the object in the mold before you pull it. Preserves the edges. Nice video!
Having had a job as an artisan at a bronze foundry for a few years, I think most of your defects are shrink deficits and insufficient vents. To minimize shrink deficits, you need wider gates and sprues, but mostly you need to make a pour cup large enough to keep feeding them as they cool, preventing them from separating and cutting off the flow of molten metal. My castings of everything from figurines to monuments had minimal to no shrink deficits, so I think this will at least reduce the shrink deficits.
Q: 3d printed lost wax with printed vents. Will the vents dissolve and work?
@@rupacustoms90 Well, yes and no. Yes, they melt and vaporize, rather than dissolve, along with the rest of the wax. As in lost wax casting, you know?
Also, as someone who once owned a foundry, I would say that the "texture" or graininess of the casting (which can affect how clear the detail comes out) is due to either, a) Insufficient vents or vents that could have a better design (as @nunyabusiness9043NunyaBiz said), and/or b) the metal being too hot (or possibly needing to be fluxed/degassed).
There are a few other things you could do in the molding process that might make it a bit easier, and possibly produce a better result, but overall a very cool video. I really enjoyed it. Nice job and I'm glad you're sharing this.
Been lost wax/pla casting for a few years now, but wanting to try my hand at sand casting like here. Thank you for sharing!
And you should put the piece face up on the table, put the cope and clay on top making a tight print coat. Flip, make a pour funnel/feeder and vents, put on drag and pack clay, separate, refine sprue and vents, remove piece, etc
Hey randy! Another way you can do things with flat backs is by putting the back on the table first. Then you sprinkle fine clay on top to get the details in, then start packing heavy sand on top of that. It captures the details best from what I've seen. Hope that helps!
😊
An interesting way when resources are limited or you need to do something semi-antique, I liked your work, keep up the good work.
Thank you and yeah this is a very simple way to do casting but like your said not perfect. Lost wax casting is the way to go if you are wanting things to be perfect 😅👍
Thank you for your fine tutorial. I was able to reproduce an antique brass drawer pull using your method. I used a different method to melt, the metal pail with lump charcoal. Your method of making the mould was my guide. I am very grateful to you. Btw, your taste in jewelry pieces is excellent.
Probably one of the best videos I've seen on casting tutorial yet, thanks for the upload
With flat back items there is no need to do a split cast just form the drag over it, place flat cope on top this will pretty much eliminate the edge flash.
You mention having issues with getting perfect results around the 24 minute mark - have you tried olivine sand? I haven't worked with it personally, but i've seen it pop up in discussions about fine-mesh casting sands. Another thing to try would be to incorporate your vents and sprue into the 3d printed master, so you're not knocking around loose sand as you're cutting them. Also, for 2D pieces like that medallion, you can design a threaded hole into the piece and when it comes time to remove it from the mold, simply screw a screw into it and use that screw as a handle to lift the piece out.
i like the rougher ones bit more to them more hand made antique kind of sorts yep good, take care keep well keep safe.
we did that sort of casting when I was in High School, in our art class. I made a silver ring that I sculpted using jeweler's wax. :)
Dude, I thank you! I have watched many videos about this and am only 6 months in on melting and now casting items, i like to find interesting things and re create them with the exact same flask and sand your using. I've had so many hiccups until today. After watching this twice i put on my big boy pants and tried for the 8th time to replicate a "punisher bottle opener/multitool" i found. It was flat on both sides but had some detail and notches and holes which i was never able to get right, until now. I did it 3 times following your method and came out great. the drill bit for a spru was a great idea! Just saying thank you and I'm off to melt and make more stuff!!
Happy to be able to help 😁👍
This is exactly what I was after. Thanks
Thank you so much for a very descriptive video, and it helps so much. These are the videos I really appreciate. Thank you
This video was really useful. I have only tried a. Small amount of wax carving and have difficulty turning the flat design into a 3 d design. Thankyou Patsy
Might I suggest old cut up tire inner-tubes to hold the flask together. Awesome! I've been pouring into graphite & wood I carve out, but I can only do so much with that, and graphite is so messy. I look like a coal miner or chimney sweep after I'm all done. Thanks for all the tips, and thank you 4 crushing 👊🏼🐻
From my experience as a defence braze and pipe fitter, I can say that pitting is usually the result of a dirty surface (not enough flux[borax]) or not having enough air outlets for air to escape. Also it looks like you have some shrink defects.
Nice. I think I would’ve used a wax impression for small work like this. It catches the details better.
Put your piece closer to the pour spout and make more air holes to get rid of the rough surface and defects.
I'm concerned about how toxic 3-D Resin printing is. I was going to go with that, until I saw a video showing how the air continues to be at a maximum hazard even hours after printing. That's with people using ventilation as well..... Would it be possible to use PLA filament in an FDM 3-D printer, and still do fine in sand or clay casting? Maybe the answer should be obvious but I'm new to 3-D printing.
Nice explanation and video, what i saw in other tutorial is that they make the canal with a curve, not straight, could be that a reason that some pieces you get that irregular part?
this was the channel i was looking for !! thank you
😁👍
Another great video... thank you. 🙏👍👍
Hello there! Nice video! What kind of torch did you use? How much time did it take you to melt silver? Can I melt a small amount of copper with this torch?
Haha , when you uncovered your piece I said " pretty cool at the same time you did lol.. yup definitely cool thanks for the info. I can't wait to get into this
😁
Great tutorial as always...maybe you could add a little peg to the back of the printed template, in the design phase, to be able to pull it out of the sand easily.
Thanks and yeah they could be done as well to make it easier 😁👍
Thank you for making your videos!! You are awesome!!! 😁😁😁😁💗💎
Thanks and you might like this new video as well ruclips.net/video/bBAkI78--cE/видео.html
Have you tried making more than one mold in the delft clay for a single pouring? It seems this one might work for that
I haven't but I have seen people do 1 or 2 items at a time
Curious what would happen if you only did one side of the mold and poured metal in that way? Also, can this be used with brass?
It would ball up and be very thick
Great vid....much thanks for the tool list as well THANK YOU!!!
Thanks and no problem 😊 let me know if I forgot anything 😅
back in HS we never tossed out the burnt oil sand. Just mixed it back in and away we go. It would last a very very long time even with burnt bits. It would over time darken the sands but the teacher would just refresh it a bit over the course of the year and we did loads of sand casting in our shop. So when you did the second side that was literally flat why on earth did you pack it on top of the other one? We used aluminum, copper and bronze. I liked the aluminum and bronze the most.
Grat video, thanks so much for sharing! So much valuable info
Hi there,
What is the dark coating on top of your bench pin?? Is it setter's cement?? Curiosity is killing me! Thanks 😸
It's just black super glue that I used to fill in all the holes that I made overtime.
Lol awesome:) Thanks so much, the not knowing was driving me crazy! 😂
i would honestly not worry how they work out like i sed in the first one they look genuine they look good dings chips wangs make them look good aged leave well alone
I'm a fan of your page and I would just like to list a few know-how things that you may be able to do videos on that I would absolutely love to watch
1. the full process of melting, recycled tin, aluminum/aluminium, glass, clay, or plastic and, casting/ printing them for different creations.
2. A video over your creations as a artist
3. 3d prints, your printer of choice with a review and, your printing process
4. laser printed mold process if you're familiar with this and have the devices to do so / laser prints
5. axidraw stuff and the processes, if you also have experience in this kind of field.
6. your creative process
7. your choice of 3d print filaments
8. reviews reviews reviews
9. your experience marketing your art
10. videos where you experiment
11. what got you into these kinds of things and your story
You and your videos are highly appreciated!
Those scarab pendant look ancient , just like they have come straight out of a pyramid, the pits etc add to the aged look.
Yeah I do like the look of it but I for wish it was cleaner. 😅
@@GomeowCreations maybe pushing the clay down more into the ingot would make a difference, but they are all one of a kind because of the slight imperfections.
thank you🙏
Another great video Randy! Thank you!
Is the scarab amulet of your making? Could you share the file? It looks amazing especially with the vintage look after casting
Thanks again for the demonstration
No problem 😊👍
Beginner's question: what is better to use this method with casting sand or use the method with plaster mold casting? the plaster casting looks like be the industry standard and I am not sure but looks like can be done in artisanal way too, I ask because the pieces from plaster cast are sharp and clean while this ones with clay arent as shrarp
Vacuum casting is going to be the way to go with castings things with details. You can do some nice castings in sand but you have to limit the details.
Excellent and well explained!!👍👍.
Nice Job! I made my own greensand before, but I want to try delft clay / petrobond next for those extra detailed pieces!
Will propane + oxygen be hot enough as I already have an oxygen concentrator for lampworking beads
It should be
do you think clay casting or wax casting faster than forging a piece or is it only convenient for mass production
Sand casting is faster to set up and lost wax is better quality.
Awesome video.. wat exact model resin printer was used to do the 3d piece thank you and much success
I saw some casters using a small air bellows to remove dust and a sitck with glue to lift the 3D Print up without damaging the impression in the clay. Could that help?
Yeah that sound like that would be helpful, thank you 😁👍
It's really good
Thanks
I've watched many casting videos, you're first to say carve the air escape channels on back side of sand and that MAPP gas is borderline for melting the silver. Good to know.
Were you using true delft clay? It looks kinda coarse.
Thanks and yeah I found out it's not true delft clay once I got everything wrapped up on shooting the video but I have some some on order now and will be doing a comparison video between the two soon 😁👍
Petrobond 👍🏾😎
You could improve the quality by improving the ventilation and sprues and by adding a pour funnel that can provide molten metal as the casting cools, reducing bubbles and shrink deficits.
Graphite powder instead of baby powder on the delft clay surface that comes in contact with the hot brass, silver etc gives a nicer surface , less pitting. Other tip: make first some copies of your model in lead or pewter in your delft clay, using baby powder ( graphite does not improve the pewters surface) now you have a multiple good positives to put in the delft clay.
About the scarab: I did 12 brass smileys last week, 6,5 cm diameter and 4,5 mm thick, and the first one I did flask laying flat, details down, flat side up. The pooring channel in the centre if the smiley. Result: a lot of pitting on back and even front.
Next poor, I made the pooring channel 2 cm outside the smiley, cutting the entry channel from there horizontally into the smiley. Result: 100% better. Used graphite to cover the clay surface.
So, just my bit here...
Thanks 😁
What is the best and most economical heat source and torch for melting the silver ? I have been using propane with a regular torch, silver will melt but won’t flow.
Please help 😁
Excellent video, keep doing these great videos
Thanks, will do!
Is there a way to cast items without them looking pitted or having a bad finish? I don’t like the grainy end result. Thanks
Bro... Old fashion....the new trend is melting solid metal in a 100$ microwave in less than 10 minutes 😁😁👌👌
Even gold?
@@MrLuvbizwaryes... specially gold and silver... It would take 5 to 10 minutes to melt gold in a microwave if its 24k gold... If its an alloy mixed with another metal then it will take 10 to 15 minutes depending on the amount and stiff...so you will have to keep checking on it every 10 minutes
@@trollface391 Well I tried it. Didn't work out as expected. My dick is now stuck in the toaster. I think I might have misinterpreted the instructions. Thanks for your help anyways.
Question, I'm dealing with Delft clay for a while, is possible to add water or oil to it after become a little too dry?
Thanks !!! Love the channel
I tried for my first time to sandcast a pendant , i’m not sure if I did say over or what happened but I wish there was someway I could send you a picture of what I did, and you could tell me or give me some tips on what I did wrong or what I need to do the next time I try to cast this piece. Can you help me. Deborah
Following your link to purchase one! This video was awesome! You said you bought the flask and sand kit? Did the kit come with enough sand?
Yeah it did, why?
@@GomeowCreations thank you for the reply. I ordered the kit. Was just wondering if I needed to get extra sand.. I read a review stating it takes 10lbs to pack the mold so I was curious
Great Video!!! Thank you for the links!!
No problem 👍
is it best to use a resin printer or can you get away with a normal pla fdm printer?
Hello. My hobby is sand casting. I can tell You how to cast this scarabs without errors.
Email me? gomeowcreations@gmail.com
Tell me everything please!!!
Do you have a RUclips video?
@sekatorCK what would you suggest different from this video to cast without errors ?
lmao
Hey-- I dont know if you'll ever see this comment, but I'm trying to make a medallion with no experience and have a question. Why does the model have to be 3d printed in resin? Why can't it be done in regular plastic filament, and if it can what are the issues that using resin resolves? I only have access to a regular 3d printer and im wondering if it's still possible.
I forgot to add! With flat-backed pieces, you have to put air vents in the back to prevent inclusions!
Is there a reason you centered it? Instead of placing it closer to the top of the funnel?
No real reason
Which is better for an ingot mold, cast iron or stainless steel?
Idk. I have never seen a stainless steel one. I have cast iron molds and they work fine for me. Just make sure to oil them so things don't get stuck and heat them up before you pour the metal in
Awesome video! Can you reuse the sand after the pouring or you have to throw it out? :) Thanks!
Yes you can reuse it 😁👍
You can reuse the burnt sand. It’s only black because the oil has been burned off of it. Just crush and rehydrate with 40w motor oil or mineral oil. Spray lightly. You want the sand to just stick together. No moisture should be able to be squeezed out. If you can squeeze moisture out. Leave it out in the open for a day or a couple. Check on it regularly and stir it often. Always store in an airtight container. (Don’t use Tupperware, it’s not actually airtight)
Thx for the video!
No problem
Umm.. I also have delft clay. How can you get the molding flask? I need so much
Thank you I’m going to try that
The baby powder adds texture you don’t need to use it before the first print, use it after that’s why your piece has that powdery texture
спасибо за отличную идею!
I came for the 3D printing. I stayed for the Horror. Having worked in 2 foundries, I see so much done wrong. Use G clams to hold the mould together It reduces flashing. Never rubber bands. Why press the pattern into the flat surface? it creates the missing parts. Place it on top and create the second part of the mould. for more 3D patterns make half in the mould bottom and half in the top. Print the sprue with the pattern where possible. it saves time. for instance.. With the scarab I would print a sprue to the right size for the mould. Pack the sand around it and make it flat. add the the scarab face up and the second part of the mould and pack the sand on top. Then extract the patterns (use a small screw hole on the sprue.) and if you are smart a tab on the scarab when you made space for it on the sprue pattern. Create some vent holes, clamp it tightly and then pour the metal
Oh yeah I definitely did a lot wrong in this video. And have definitely learned a lot since then, here's a video I did on Lost wax casting and 3D printing along with 3D scanning ruclips.net/video/t2H_lV8IOyY/видео.html
Wow Awesome 👏 👏👏
Awesome vid!
which affordable 3d printer you recommend
So if you want a resin printer like the one that I used to make this one I really suggest the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro. Here is a link amzn.to/3eUlAE3
It is a little bigger than the first mars and it has a monochrome screen so you can print things about 2x faster.
You can also get the Anycubic Mono, it has a bigger print area and is cheaper than the Mars. It also has a monochrome screen so it is basically the same thing, here is a link to it amzn.to/3vFBkkw
When it comes to the resin for them it really depends on what you are wanting to make. I used some resin from PowerResins to make this skull. Here is a link to it and and discount code bit.ly/JewelryResinsPowerResins 250g or 1kg 15% off - Code GOM15
I have also used BlueCast resins in the past and they seem to work really good as well. bit.ly/BlueCastX10LCD Use Code GOMEOW5OFF to save $5 on your order of BlueCast Products
But if you want to make other things that don't need to be used in a burn out oven there is a wide variety of resins on the market for all kinds of applications.
If you want a FDM printer, basically one that uses filament to print you can get a basic ender 3 to start and modify it to your liking later on if you need to. I have 6 modified ender3 printers and they do a great job but they can't do the details that a resin printer can. Here is a link to one amzn.to/3ePMbCo
If you have any more questions please let me know. 😁👍
Muy bien 👌👍
I wonder if you would mind telling me the part of the country where you grew up. You use an interesting dialectical phrase I have heard occasionally and have always wondered the region where it is used.
I'm from South California but now live in Washington
Good times
😊👍
Is a good work
Thanks😁👍
I prefer the UNperfect version of that ( min 1:40 ) instead of the more ''perfect one''
, i just think it LOOKS more ''old'' (as if its from ancient times) ,i personally just like old-looking things more
(as a collector of a lot of small figures or jewelry from mainly asia :india/thailand & china)
The back of your item is flat. Why do you need the top layer of the flask when you can just pour your metal directly on the other half as you would an ingot? I’m confused.
Know it’s been a year, but do you have a vid on how to get that glaze on your crucible?
I think I show how to do that in this video if I remember right. ruclips.net/video/Ol6-FfjwOIE/видео.html
No it was this one ruclips.net/video/xr6caKULdYo/видео.html
The silver is too turbulent when filling your mold. That's the reason for the pitting. It's either air or sand that moved from the turbulence of the molten silver.
Baking soda works if you don't have anything else like Telcom or baby powder.
Thanks for pointing that out, more options is always better
How to make the plastic disc please
3d design them yourself, find someone to do it for you or find the STL file online for free
How do you take a flat photo and 3D design it? @@GomeowCreations
what the sand is？
as a moulder 4get the lump hammer use a wooden mallet and u dont need 2 use a brush just sprinkle it over the mould and u only need the draw lines at bottom as u r puoring from the top .myself i would have gone from the side and made 2 instead of 1.u have a lot 2 learn there should have been no flashing as we called it.less grinding.sorry but next time use the drill in the begining instead of doing it later part 2 lay the flat side down 1st and get some bellows
Please tell me what's the components of the sand
whats the brand of this sand
amzn.to/3pPJqWF this is what I use
Что это за песок такой кирпичного цвета ,?
Casting Sand
Can you do this with aluminum
Very short answer, yes 😁👍
@@GomeowCreations thanks
Could one do rings this way?
Yeas but it's a bit harder seeing that you need to make room for something to sit inside of the band seeing that it's a hole.
@@GomeowCreations make space for something to go inside the band? The top layer of sand wouldn't do that for me?, what would I use to fill that space that wouldnt burn or fuse to the poured metal👀? Sorry if these are bad questions im still pretty new tryna grasp the essence of whats going on here haha . I appreciate your patience and tips!
@@GomeowCreations im trying to figure out the best way to recreate metal clay rings. Making them out of clay is pretty easy but if i could just cast several copies afterwards, that would be very valuable knowledge
I have never done this and just do rings by hand or vacuum casting but you could pack down a cylinder of sand that would fit throw the ring. It's not easy to do from what I have seen.
Reason why you're getting pits for, is because of gases in the metal, green clay is not fine enough or contaminants in either.
Were i can Buy a sandcasting
Do you mean the silver castings I made or the materials I used?
Dont use the baby powder on the objekt and you will get a better surface.
Why not just do half & pour directly into the impression?
I think using a heat press would work better/more evenly than hammering.
This is meant to be a cheap way to do castings and it's very normal to use a hammer or even thick pieces of wood to compact this stuff.
Oddly light silver. Those look to be about the size of 1 oz rounds, yet weigh half as much.
I'm fairly certain it's the depth of the piece, but....the depth actually looks about right too, and you have the scarab section that's popping out, which should add some weight. No much, but some.
Even if this was sterling silver; 7.5% copper, which weighs roughly 5.5g to silvers 6.5g for the same cubic area of material. It would at most account for about a gram of weight or so.