Thank you 😊 I've been trying to learn about this for my different projects and by far i really like the detail information most others leave to much information out but after watching your videos I have no more questions, Thanks Much!!! So I also left a like and I subscribed hope to see many more videos.. 😄
Hi David, thank you for the kind comments, they are very much appreciated. I try and produce my videos as if I were teaching someone who knows absolutely nothing about the subject. Hopefully then they will have the confidence to have a go. Lots more still to come, but the videos do take quite a while to make. All the best, Sera
Hi very interesting video, esy to follow and very clear. I have a bycicle brake lever that I would like to make. Problem is holes. I am not sure how to handle them. The material is aluminum
This method will not work with Aluminium. The mould will catch fire split open and you may end up in hospital. This method only works for low temperature alloys. Use sand casting for Aluminium. Make the part solid and drill out the holes afterwards. Hope this helps. 🙂
Thanks for the kind comments and feedback, much appreciated. I'm trying to make my channel a resource for model makers of all kinds. I hope you continue to enjoy my content, Sera.
Great video. Thank you! One question, cutting the 1mm vents seems tricky? what is your thoughts on making single scalpel cut then slightly bending mould to open the vent, and dust with talc to keep vent slightly open? We used to do this with vulcanised moulds in jewellery casting.
Thanks Alan, yes the simple slit and talc method works to a degree but I find the air needs wider vents to escape. I'm just reliant on gravity and temperatures which aren't powerful enough tools sometimes. Metal in the vents is easy to remove. Getting a decent casting is the hard bit. 🙂
Hi, can these be used for brass casting? I am looking for an alternative way for metal molds coz they are expensive, I am looking for 2 part mold made out of cheaper material but realiable enough for repeated casting..any one have any answers to this?
This method is not suitable for brass. The mould will catch fire straight away and you could get seriously hurt. Check out investment / lost wax casting. I recommend getting a specialist to cast brass / bronze. 🙂
I put a Ziploc bag into a 2-quart pitcher. Add my catalyst. Except the bag almost all the way squeeze as much are out of the bag as you can. Without losing material. Play smack into picture. The gas. Takes bag out of picture. Snip a corner like a pastry tube in it works good. Hardly no waste
Amazing Man! I learned how to make proper silicon molds with ur video. The advice of painting the figures first with silicon to avoid bubbles, cutting out the sprues afterwards and adding vents, helped me finally produce molds of quality. Thanks!
No, I only use Vaseline on the Plasticeine and on the silicone mould when I prepare for the second pour. The silicone easily comes off of the Lego bricks.
Hi Graham. For the smaller moulds I use about a 1.2mm drill to avoid damaging mould detail. For larger moulds I will go for about 2.5mm as I have to evacuate more air. In both cases make sure the drill is sharp and running at very high speed as the silicone will just move out of the way of the drill at low speed. Drill sizes are just approximate and not critical. Hope this helps, Sera.
@@StaplesandVine That's helpful thanks. You're right about it just moving out of the way, I attempted to hand drill it with a pin vice and you couldn't even see the hole afterwards lol.
Your video is great and very informative. I do have idea of what I could use this for but was wondering if it would work for my earrings design. Say one of the metal items I was trying to craft was a flat on the bottom petal flower with bumps. Would I do the same thing of molding and then just make the second mold a completely flat sheet?
So I do something similar without legos and I have wooden guides but I use a palm sander on my work bench right after I pour and every 5 min for the first half hour and I get 0 bubbles and super clean details
Well you could but it is going to stink! Especially when it gets hot. It'll be like a chip shop on a Saturday night. Might even catch fire so best not. Vaseleine is very cheap and safe, best stick with that.
@@StaplesandVine Okay one more question sorry, I had mixed up the rubber silicon, one2 came out perfect so I got ready to make the second, and I don’t think I got the mixture quite right, it’s still gooey 24 hours later, if I wait longer will it eventually dry?
If you got the mix ratio wrong it should just take longer to cure. How long you will just have to see. If it has partially thickened you stand a chance. If not you will have to try and remove the uncured silicone clean the mould, apply vaseline, mix up another batch and try again. This is why it is best to take care with your mixing.
@@StaplesandVine I had to clear it away, the next ratio I think I put a bit too much I was able to get the mould right but it dried in a matter of four minutes😅😂🤣🥲😀😃😄😁😆
Ive followed your video was really helpful, but forgot to add vaseline to the plastecine before i brushed on/ poured the silicone, I am still waiting for it to cure, will this affect my mold at this initial stage? I will vaseline before i make the 2nd part of the mold for the two-part mold. thank you
Hi 'Tabletop Collector', You should be ok removing the plastecine, just take it slow and steady. It shouldn't stick to the silicone but may dislodge the masters. Just make sue you use vaseline before the second pour or you will have a very bad day. Best of luck, Sera.
Hi Ayako Studio, glad you liked my video. This process is ONLY for low melt alloys. Please do not use it to try and cast Aluminium or Brass - you will end up in hospital. Try searching Aluminium casting and lost wax casting to see how to cast brass. 🙂
Hello, I love these videos. I am new to molds and have a hard time creating round molds but I don’know what to use to create the barrier for the housing of the mold. Can you tell me what you use. Thank you.
Hi Gustavo, I use Lego to build the walls around my could cure moulds. Some people make mould boxes from card held together with hot glue but Lego is was more versatile. The only problem is you need a lot of it for large moulds. I hope this helps. 🙂
@@StaplesandVine Thank you so much for your response. I don’t have a problem with square molds, my problem is when I have to create a mold for circular objects. Thank you.
Round is difficult as you need to remove it once the mould is cured. Cardboard tube may be the answer? You can get it in a range of sizes and it cat be cut/torn away afterwards. Plastic tubing would be very difficult.
Having recently purchased the Alec Tiranti starter kit this video has great advice in overcoming some of the problems that I have found in the production of my first silicon moulds. One of them being fixing small parts back into the first part of the mould before pouring the second part. I assume that superglue does not bond with silicon which enables the master to be removed after the second part of the mould has cured? Look forward to episode two and how to then cast from the moulds!
Hi Shaun, glad you like the video. I gave a tutorial to some friends the other day using the Tiranti starter kit (red rubber) and we had to use superglue. One way of checking is to turn over the mould and shake it - if the master stays put - you're good. The trick is to use it sparingly and where there is little detail. If the superglue does remove rubber when you demould, your castings should only have a small amount of metal to clean up and in an easy location.
Why are one-part molds more difficult to produce? Is it because the silicone you use has a higher shore rating? Also, what did you mean by "you aren't going to get super crisp parts" at 2:19? The examples I've seen from you all look quite nice. Maybe the camera isn't capturing all the detail.
Hi Hugh, one part moulds are easier to pour but require a lot more skill to cut. By the time you have enough access to cut and drill the air feeds you will have a mould with insufficient locators and therefore an unreliable mould. One piece moulds work best for resin casting.
Hi Choppers Ears, for small quantities of pewter /white metal best go to www.tiranti.co.uk/Products/white-metal--tin-alloys If you are buying in larger volumes try www.gwneale.co.uk/ 🙂
@@StaplesandVine which one would you consider for casting metal miniatures using silicone? No 2 low melt alloy? My only concern is lead do you have any experience using that?
Morning , thanks for your very informative video i am new to casting so need help,I got in touch with polysil to ask if rtv 101 would be ok to cast lead or tin they were not sure due to they only just taken over the company, have you any adice many thanks.
Hi Salmo Hunter, glad you like the video. On the Tiranti website they state that their RTV-101 is suitable for casting white metal. so you should be ok if this is the rubber you are referring to.
Thank you. I wished amd wamted to know hiw to make iron or aluminium molds for my house exterior decorations. Thanks to your generous and loving actions and pacience you helped me to realise how to do it. Thank you very much! Jesus Christ bless you.
Hi thank you for the lovely comment. This method will only work for small parts cast in low temperature alloys. For iron or aluminium casting search for 'sand casting metal' If you use silicone moulds to cast iron or aluminium you will get badly hurt.
@@StaplesandVine thank you for the meaningful warning. Would you be able to sacrifice a portion of your life to make a tutorial how to make that as well? It could help me even to make a business in my poor country in Europe.
Unfortunately I have no experience of this process. It is best handled by a proper casting foundry. I am sure if you made solid original parts a foundry would cast them for you.
I have tried that already. It actually folds air in as the silicone lands. The bubbles in the mould create give which cause oversize castings. This is useful on clean up as there is excess material to work with.
Just a question regarding the silicone you used, the RTV 3481 and the curing agent 81 F. I've been trying to find the temperature rating. Where can I get the spec sheet for the silicone you are using?
Here's a link to the technical data sheets www.polysil.co.uk/resources/rtv-silicone-systems/ I have been using this rubber for 20 + years for casting pewter and it has never let me down.
Hi Aliza, the black material I use is called 'Plasticine'. It is a commonly available modelling product often used in children's play. Hope this helps, Sera.
Hi Paul. Sorry, I don't take work in. This process won't work for aluminium unless you want a major fire and a trip to A&E. I suggest you hunt for a specialist caster for Aluminium.
@@StaplesandVine That's interesting. I've seen aluminium used for compression molding of things like shoe soles. I expect there are people looking for ways to make these molds out of aluminium. Is melting point the problem?
@@Veganlinecom Aluminium moulds are usually machined from a block using CNC and cost several thousand £/$ to make. This method is more for the hobbyist at home to cast low temperature alloys at about 280C.
@@KK-kk4xy I've spent all my life working with knives, files and various other tools. It's made my hands very strong, but chunky. I don't mind, I enjoy my job tremendously.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you 😊 I've been trying to learn about this for my different projects and by far i really like the detail information most others leave to much information out but after watching your videos I have no more questions, Thanks Much!!! So I also left a like and I subscribed hope to see many more videos..
😄
Hi David, thank you for the kind comments, they are very much appreciated. I try and produce my videos as if I were teaching someone who knows absolutely nothing about the subject. Hopefully then they will have the confidence to have a go. Lots more still to come, but the videos do take quite a while to make. All the best, Sera
A wonderful video series! I don't have such a great, professional workshop and want to cast different things, but this is very helpful. Thanks!
It's surprising what you can achieve in a small space. Most of my workshop is storage. Glad you find the series useful. 🙂
Excellent thank you, I want to have a go at casting some Meccano parts and this is just what I needed to get started.
This method only works for low temperature (tin / lead) alloys which aren't great for structural parts but for decorative casting - ideal. 🙂
This is the best, most informative video on the subject that I have seen so far. Thanks so much, you've really helped me
Thanks for the great comment Kim. If you have any questions just leave them in the comments. Always happy to help. 🙂
Excellent demonstration 🙏
Thank you, I'm glad you found it useful. 🙂
Hi very interesting video, esy to follow and very clear. I have a bycicle brake lever that I would like to make. Problem is holes. I am not sure how to handle them. The material is aluminum
This method will not work with Aluminium. The mould will catch fire split open and you may end up in hospital. This method only works for low temperature alloys. Use sand casting for Aluminium. Make the part solid and drill out the holes afterwards. Hope this helps. 🙂
I can tell alot of time and planning went into this viedo, very pleasant to watch and extremely informative.
Thanks for the kind comments and feedback, much appreciated. I'm trying to make my channel a resource for model makers of all kinds. I hope you continue to enjoy my content, Sera.
Great video. Thank you! One question, cutting the 1mm vents seems tricky? what is your thoughts on making single scalpel cut then slightly bending mould to open the vent, and dust with talc to keep vent slightly open? We used to do this with vulcanised moulds in jewellery casting.
Thanks Alan, yes the simple slit and talc method works to a degree but I find the air needs wider vents to escape. I'm just reliant on gravity and temperatures which aren't powerful enough tools sometimes. Metal in the vents is easy to remove. Getting a decent casting is the hard bit. 🙂
@@StaplesandVine that makes sense. Your method ensured flow and it looks easy to remove feeders once cast. Cheers 👍
Hi, can these be used for brass casting? I am looking for an alternative way for metal molds coz they are expensive, I am looking for 2 part mold made out of cheaper material but realiable enough for repeated casting..any one have any answers to this?
This method is not suitable for brass. The mould will catch fire straight away and you could get seriously hurt. Check out investment / lost wax casting. I recommend getting a specialist to cast brass / bronze. 🙂
I put a Ziploc bag into a 2-quart pitcher. Add my catalyst. Except the bag almost all the way squeeze as much are out of the bag as you can. Without losing material. Play smack into picture. The gas. Takes bag out of picture. Snip a corner like a pastry tube in it works good. Hardly no waste
That's a really good hack - love it. 😎😎😎
Amazing Man! I learned how to make proper silicon molds with ur video. The advice of painting the figures first with silicon to avoid bubbles, cutting out the sprues afterwards and adding vents, helped me finally produce molds of quality. Thanks!
That's great, glad to be of help. I hope you can get some good castings.
Do you have to spray, or brush anything on the legos to help make the mold release from them?
No, I only use Vaseline on the Plasticeine and on the silicone mould when I prepare for the second pour. The silicone easily comes off of the Lego bricks.
Thank you very much for this video, very helpful.
Kind Regards. . . Andy
You're welcome Andy, glad you found my video useful... 🙂
Is there a reason you use Vaseline instead of talk powder for the mould separation?
The Vaseline is a lot more controlable than the talc so it doesn't fill any detail. Talc goes everywhere and doesn't stay put.
What size drill bit and what speed do you drill the vent holes using please?
Hi Graham. For the smaller moulds I use about a 1.2mm drill to avoid damaging mould detail. For larger moulds I will go for about 2.5mm as I have to evacuate more air. In both cases make sure the drill is sharp and running at very high speed as the silicone will just move out of the way of the drill at low speed. Drill sizes are just approximate and not critical. Hope this helps, Sera.
@@StaplesandVine That's helpful thanks. You're right about it just moving out of the way, I attempted to hand drill it with a pin vice and you couldn't even see the hole afterwards lol.
Great informative video! Good job. Showing and explaining why. Very useful. Thank you
Thanks, I'm glad you found the video useful.🙂
Your video is great and very informative. I do have idea of what I could use this for but was wondering if it would work for my earrings design.
Say one of the metal items I was trying to craft was a flat on the bottom petal flower with bumps. Would I do the same thing of molding and then just make the second mold a completely flat sheet?
This process would work with your design but you would need to make sure your pattern is at least 2mm thick to cast successfully. Hope this helps 🙂
Dude this is great... just what I was looking for.. look forward to seeing the maus 👍🇬🇧
Glad to be of service. Episode #11 of 'Project Maus' is out now, enjoy. 🙂
So I do something similar without legos and I have wooden guides but I use a palm sander on my work bench right after I pour and every 5 min for the first half hour and I get 0 bubbles and super clean details
That's a great idea for getting the bubbles out. Thanks, I'll give it a try. 🙂
Thank you your sharing, have you try this method to cast vehicle,like sport car
Not yet. That will be one of my next projects. Subscribe to follow my progress. 🙂
Thank you your reply, Waiting your next project. I m white metal car fans.
Can I ask a question? Would cooking grease/fat also be adequate for lining each mould to protect them from sticking?
Well you could but it is going to stink! Especially when it gets hot. It'll be like a chip shop on a Saturday night. Might even catch fire so best not. Vaseleine is very cheap and safe, best stick with that.
@@StaplesandVine ok thanks👍
@@StaplesandVine Okay one more question sorry, I had mixed up the rubber silicon, one2 came out perfect so I got ready to make the second, and I don’t think I got the mixture quite right, it’s still gooey 24 hours later, if I wait longer will it eventually dry?
If you got the mix ratio wrong it should just take longer to cure. How long you will just have to see. If it has partially thickened you stand a chance. If not you will have to try and remove the uncured silicone clean the mould, apply vaseline, mix up another batch and try again. This is why it is best to take care with your mixing.
@@StaplesandVine I had to clear it away, the next ratio I think I put a bit too much I was able to get the mould right but it dried in a matter of four minutes😅😂🤣🥲😀😃😄😁😆
Ive followed your video was really helpful, but forgot to add vaseline to the plastecine before i brushed on/ poured the silicone, I am still waiting for it to cure, will this affect my mold at this initial stage? I will vaseline before i make the 2nd part of the mold for the two-part mold. thank you
Hi 'Tabletop Collector', You should be ok removing the plastecine, just take it slow and steady. It shouldn't stick to the silicone but may dislodge the masters. Just make sue you use vaseline before the second pour or you will have a very bad day. Best of luck, Sera.
@@StaplesandVine Thank you very much Sera. You're videos are awesome. :)
You're welcome@@tabletopcollector5200 . Glad you like my channel 🙂
Really nice video! Is there a way to cast aluminum or brass with the same procedure?
Hi Ayako Studio, glad you liked my video. This process is ONLY for low melt alloys. Please do not use it to try and cast Aluminium or Brass - you will end up in hospital. Try searching Aluminium casting and lost wax casting to see how to cast brass. 🙂
@@StaplesandVine Thank you for the quick response!
Great tutorial Sera ! If I ever get the guts (or need) to cast I'll be coming here first !
Thanks James, glad you like it. Episode #2 'How to cast from silicone moulds' will be live next Friday. It's a bit more dramatic than this episode.
Can you tell us about the silicone you use? Where can I buy it?
Hi Zu Mu, the grade I use is '3481' check out the links in the description or try a Google search where you are.
Hello, I love these videos. I am new to molds and have a hard time creating round molds but I don’know what to use to create the barrier for the housing of the mold. Can you tell me what you use. Thank you.
Hi Gustavo, I use Lego to build the walls around my could cure moulds. Some people make mould boxes from card held together with hot glue but Lego is was more versatile. The only problem is you need a lot of it for large moulds. I hope this helps. 🙂
@@StaplesandVine Thank you so much for your response. I don’t have a problem with square molds, my problem is when I have to create a mold for circular objects. Thank you.
Round is difficult as you need to remove it once the mould is cured. Cardboard tube may be the answer? You can get it in a range of sizes and it cat be cut/torn away afterwards. Plastic tubing would be very difficult.
Having recently purchased the Alec Tiranti starter kit this video has great advice in overcoming some of the problems that I have found in the production of my first silicon moulds. One of them being fixing small parts back into the first part of the mould before pouring the second part. I assume that superglue does not bond with silicon which enables the master to be removed after the second part of the mould has cured? Look forward to episode two and how to then cast from the moulds!
Hi Shaun, glad you like the video. I gave a tutorial to some friends the other day using the Tiranti starter kit (red rubber) and we had to use superglue. One way of checking is to turn over the mould and shake it - if the master stays put - you're good. The trick is to use it sparingly and where there is little detail. If the superglue does remove rubber when you demould, your castings should only have a small amount of metal to clean up and in an easy location.
Thank you so much I’m about to start modelmaking, it was the air vents I was mostly worried about fearing it wouldn’t flow properly.
Thanks for the kind comment Wolftal 117. I hope you enjoy your future in modelmaking and check out the rest of my channel.
@@StaplesandVine well let’s just say there’s been no explosions yet!!!😆😀
Excellent! It's always a good result when you don't need to call the emergency services.
@@StaplesandVine lol!!!😆😁😝🤣😂😅😄👍
Thank you, I've done a bit of this myself, really enjoyed watching this, thank you, have subscribed.
Glad you enjoyed the video and my channel. Thanks for subscribing.
Why are one-part molds more difficult to produce? Is it because the silicone you use has a higher shore rating? Also, what did you mean by "you aren't going to get super crisp parts" at 2:19? The examples I've seen from you all look quite nice. Maybe the camera isn't capturing all the detail.
Hi Hugh, one part moulds are easier to pour but require a lot more skill to cut. By the time you have enough access to cut and drill the air feeds you will have a mould with insufficient locators and therefore an unreliable mould. One piece moulds work best for resin casting.
@@StaplesandVine That makes sense. Thanks!
Alternatives to plastercine, would clay (raw ceramic) work or likely to get stuck too much?
Hi Emily, I don't know about using clay. Plasticeine is really cheap, readily available, and re-usable.
I realise this is old now but hope you see my comment. Where do you buy your pewter from? UK based.
Hi Choppers Ears, for small quantities of pewter /white metal best go to www.tiranti.co.uk/Products/white-metal--tin-alloys If you are buying in larger volumes try www.gwneale.co.uk/ 🙂
@@StaplesandVine which one would you consider for casting metal miniatures using silicone? No 2 low melt alloy? My only concern is lead do you have any experience using that?
@@LenzTheMenz the Tirranti number 2 looks a good general purpose alloy. A great starting point.
You should cast Lego blocks and plates for premade splitable boxes.
It's possible but I sometimes make 5-10 moulds for a project and the metal costs way more than Lego. 🙂
Morning , thanks for your very informative video i am new to casting so need help,I got in touch with polysil to ask if rtv 101 would be ok to cast lead or tin they were not sure due to they only just taken over the company, have you any adice many thanks.
Hi Salmo Hunter, glad you like the video. On the Tiranti website they state that their RTV-101 is suitable for casting white metal. so you should be ok if this is the rubber you are referring to.
Thank you.
I wished amd wamted to know hiw to make iron or aluminium molds for my house exterior decorations.
Thanks to your generous and loving actions and pacience you helped me to realise how to do it.
Thank you very much! Jesus Christ bless you.
Hi thank you for the lovely comment. This method will only work for small parts cast in low temperature alloys. For iron or aluminium casting search for 'sand casting metal' If you use silicone moulds to cast iron or aluminium you will get badly hurt.
@@StaplesandVine thank you for the meaningful warning. Would you be able to sacrifice a portion of your life to make a tutorial how to make that as well? It could help me even to make a business in my poor country in Europe.
Unfortunately I have no experience of this process. It is best handled by a proper casting foundry. I am sure if you made solid original parts a foundry would cast them for you.
Very well done.
Thank yo Marianna, glad you liked it.
Thanks buddy its so helpful
You're very welcome. 🙂
This is the perfect video! Thank you.
Glad you like it Metal Knight. I hope you enjoy the rest of my channel too. 🙂
@@StaplesandVine yes sir. I'm actually watching now. 😁
very good tips.
Thanks Chris, glad t hear you found the video useful. I hope you enjoy the rest in the series. 🙂
best to pour the silicone from a height it stretches the bubbles out
I have tried that already. It actually folds air in as the silicone lands. The bubbles in the mould create give which cause oversize castings. This is useful on clean up as there is excess material to work with.
no you pouring too fast you can see the bubbles come out@@StaplesandVine
Thanks, I'll give that a try, always willing to learn.
Do you think this would work for casting toy soldiers? I want to make sure before I try anything.
Hi Scott, yes it should work quite well. The best size for successful casting is 1-3 inches tall so you should be fine.
@@StaplesandVine Great to hear. Also, amazing video.
Just a question regarding the silicone you used, the RTV 3481 and the curing agent 81 F. I've been trying to find the temperature rating. Where can I get the spec sheet for the silicone you are using?
Here's a link to the technical data sheets www.polysil.co.uk/resources/rtv-silicone-systems/ I have been using this rubber for 20 + years for casting pewter and it has never let me down.
GOOD JOBE -CAN YOU TELL ME WATH IS THE BLACE MATIRYAL YOU ARE USING -ALIZA FROM ISRAEL
Hi Aliza, the black material I use is called 'Plasticine'. It is a commonly available modelling product often used in children's play. Hope this helps, Sera.
That was fascinating
Thanks 'Warm Valves'. I hope you enjoy the rest of my channel too.
Nice work 👌👌👌👌
Thanks Nilesh, glad you like the video. Hopefully you will enjoy the rest of my channel as well.
Very useful thanks!
You're welcome. Plenty more 'How to...' videos to come.
Hi do you take work in i need something made.in aluminium. Small item.
Hi Paul. Sorry, I don't take work in. This process won't work for aluminium unless you want a major fire and a trip to A&E. I suggest you hunt for a specialist caster for Aluminium.
@@StaplesandVine That's interesting. I've seen aluminium used for compression molding of things like shoe soles. I expect there are people looking for ways to make these molds out of aluminium. Is melting point the problem?
@@Veganlinecom Aluminium moulds are usually machined from a block using CNC and cost several thousand £/$ to make. This method is more for the hobbyist at home to cast low temperature alloys at about 280C.
great background music
Thanks K Lp 😎
Music is WAY TOO LOUD!!
It's a difficult balance but these days I do have it a lot quieter. 🙂
Well done thank you
You're welcome.
Awesome
Glad you found it useful. 🙂
Thankyou!
You're welcome! 🙂
High temp silicone is impossibly priced I doubt I'll ever be able to cast in anything more than sand
Prices and availability vary widely but the grade I use for my pewter casting is 'RTV 3481'.
Supervisor
yes
Fella, trim those finger nails 💅
done
Your fingernails are killing me.
Don't worry they are long gone...
Why is it every body plays stupid music
Because I have to pay for the good stuff.
Fingernails! OMG
It's OK, I've cut them since the video was filmed.
Dude.... gotta spend some time working on them fingernails bruh....
Being female I am trying to make them look nice but they get butchered with all the model making. I'll probably give in and cut them... 🙁
@@KK-kk4xy I've spent all my life working with knives, files and various other tools. It's made my hands very strong, but chunky. I don't mind, I enjoy my job tremendously.