Thought standard procedure is to fill it upside down, add bladder/piston air chamber, then install piston/shaft, then final bleed is through the bleed port with some pressure. Seems alot faster to do.
@@highlandcycles Thank you sir. I have the correct spring rate in a 260 mm spring like yours... should not be a performance difference between that and a 240 should it?
at 2:30 it seems the oil is still visible in the tray. Seems there was lots of foam. This is dissolved gas from reservoir. The idea no transition in Main and no preload in adjuster will result in little resistance at high speed impacts and also maybe low damping of high amplitude events like large whopps dips etc.. I cant wait to know what you experience. Thanks as always vor showing disassembly/asembly. Best regards
Yeah. More than I expected. The pressure was still good. This is the first WP bladder kit we have used and I’m wondering about the quality of the bladder. The ones that use KYB bladders don’t foam that fast. I’ve taken them apart at 60+ hrs and had them be clean. We will see. I can say that I didn’t feel anything odd.
I would say that the gas in the oil is not always a problem. It depends on many things if it will become noticeable or not. It may if the shock gets hot. Hot oil can dissolve less gas. And the problem is related to the cavitation effect which again depends strongly on shim setup main piston vs adjuster. Etc etc. Good quality of bladder (or piston type) helps, vacuumized (degassed) oil helps, frequent oil change helps, more reservoir pressure helps.
@@highlandcycles I had a bladder with a hole in it in my showa shock, found out when I went to disassemble the shock, oil was in the bladder.. but when I was riding it before that I didn't notice a difference or a problem lol, and I am very sensitive to suspension changes and do my own suspension work and valving.
When did you switch to kyb oil? Kyb oil is the only oil I've ever drained from a set of forks that was as thick as corn syrup. So I've stayed away since then.
Interested to see what you think....no ❌ cer on compression is okay...single stage stack but no spring on high speed adjuster....hmmm....makes me think back to old showa Suzuki shocks....invert stack to basically make it none operable
I have looked for a softer comp spring but never thought of removing it. I remember that was a hot fork set up years ago. I think it would work well on trail trash but you may regret it in the whoops.
Ok. Going to refresh forks doing work myself. Will do gold valves with valving 150lb guy here on a kx. I cant see the reason not to. Was eesearching to see if there were other valves on the market. Surely race tech isnt it.
@@evanmiller1642 they aren’t bad, but if you know how to valve the stacks you don’t need them. What you are really getting is a shim stack which is a good thing. The piston is nice but not necessary. But on an older bike it’s probably worth it if you don’t have the suspension background
@highlandcycles I can take things apart and put them back together. Know what im doing tuning a valve stack. No im lost there. Its a fair amount of money to invest in shops like yours doing valving. Hoping gold valves and racetech destructions will give me a starting point to learn how i can better fubar my own stuff. Theres also the snowbike delima. If i could figure out a snow stack and dirt stack that would be awesome but being lighter i do better than most the snow guys on dirt forks. Thanks for your tips. Was expecting you to love or hate them was alittle blown away by your middle ground response. You better get to work. Thanks again
Got my 2019 rear shock revalved last year, the high speed comp spring came back in the bag of parts removed. Just a thought would submerging the comp adjuster in a cup of oil for 20 mins before fitting reduce the air trapped in there ?
Thank you for the very comprehensive video🤘🏼
Cant wait to hear about the difference. Those are big changes.
Yeah. I like to make big ones but to really see a difference either good or bad
I put the xtrig adjuster on my bikes 1st service nice way to get rid of plastic ring
Yeah. I hate the plastic ring
I like thinking outside the box, either really bad or really good, but certainly should feel different.
That’s what I’m saying.
Thought standard procedure is to fill it upside down, add bladder/piston air chamber, then install piston/shaft, then final bleed is through the bleed port with some pressure. Seems alot faster to do.
I have done it that way a lot and this seems to get the air out faster.
Do you happen to know the eye to eye length? I’m wondering if my Ohlins from my 2020 TE will work?
I don’t know but I’m pretty sure it won’t. They changed everything. But there is a chance.
Zack keeps looking at with that look of "ok influencer guy, please finish and remove thy self from my bench. I have real work to do".
I know. Hahahaha
what bladder kit did you use? for the 2023 300xc?
Oem WP
Can I ask why you didn’t get the XCW ? Curious cuz I’m Picking one up soon still debating on model
I already have a W.
Hi Morgan... do you know what the numbers on your stock rear spring are? WP 42-240?
I believe that was it
@@highlandcycles Thank you sir. I have the correct spring rate in a 260 mm spring like yours... should not be a performance difference between that and a 240 should it?
@@brianmullins739 nope
at 2:30 it seems the oil is still visible in the tray. Seems there was lots of foam. This is dissolved gas from reservoir.
The idea no transition in Main and no preload in adjuster will result in little resistance at high speed impacts and also maybe low damping of high amplitude events like large whopps dips etc.. I cant wait to know what you experience. Thanks as always vor showing disassembly/asembly. Best regards
Yeah. More than I expected. The pressure was still good. This is the first WP bladder kit we have used and I’m wondering about the quality of the bladder. The ones that use KYB bladders don’t foam that fast. I’ve taken them apart at 60+ hrs and had them be clean. We will see. I can say that I didn’t feel anything odd.
I would say that the gas in the oil is not always a problem. It depends on many things if it will become noticeable or not.
It may if the shock gets hot. Hot oil can dissolve less gas. And the problem is related to the cavitation effect which again depends strongly on shim setup main piston vs adjuster. Etc etc.
Good quality of bladder (or piston type) helps, vacuumized (degassed) oil helps, frequent oil change helps, more reservoir pressure helps.
@@hachtenduro7824 yep. Heck, still lots of older shocks just gas in with oil
@@highlandcycles I had a bladder with a hole in it in my showa shock, found out when I went to disassemble the shock, oil was in the bladder.. but when I was riding it before that I didn't notice a difference or a problem lol, and I am very sensitive to suspension changes and do my own suspension work and valving.
How’d the oil look? Foamy due to the bladder?
A little
When did you switch to kyb oil? Kyb oil is the only oil I've ever drained from a set of forks that was as thick as corn syrup. So I've stayed away since then.
This is their high end stuff. Not like what you had I’m sure. The cheaper KYB is no good.
Who makes the swing arm protectors you have on your bike? Thanks
Crosslinked Components.
Interested to see what you think....no ❌ cer on compression is okay...single stage stack but no spring on high speed adjuster....hmmm....makes me think back to old showa Suzuki shocks....invert stack to basically make it none operable
Will be interesting I’m sure. Who knows. Could suck. But gotta try stuff.
I have looked for a softer comp spring but never thought of removing it. I remember that was a hot fork set up years ago. I think it would work well on trail trash but you may regret it in the whoops.
Going to find out
How about a video on the Yamaha DT!
I was looking for the video you did on gold valves . Im sure youve done one. Like em or hate em?
Neither. I don’t think you need them. Current pistons in bikes are very good.
Ok. Going to refresh forks doing work myself. Will do gold valves with valving 150lb guy here on a kx.
I cant see the reason not to. Was eesearching to see if there were other valves on the market. Surely race tech isnt it.
Need is a relative term, can swing a leg over most anything with a knobby and have fun.
@@evanmiller1642 they aren’t bad, but if you know how to valve the stacks you don’t need them. What you are really getting is a shim stack which is a good thing. The piston is nice but not necessary. But on an older bike it’s probably worth it if you don’t have the suspension background
@highlandcycles
I can take things apart and put them back together. Know what im doing tuning a valve stack. No im lost there.
Its a fair amount of money to invest in shops like yours doing valving. Hoping gold valves and racetech destructions will give me a starting point to learn how i can better fubar my own stuff.
Theres also the snowbike delima. If i could figure out a snow stack and dirt stack that would be awesome but being lighter i do better than most the snow guys on dirt forks.
Thanks for your tips. Was expecting you to love or hate them was alittle blown away by your middle ground response. You better get to work.
Thanks again
Get these settings dialed in so my next bike will get the goods!!
I will.
New setting might be nice for rocks
That’s what I’m thinking. And the linkage ratios on the new bike are more progressive so it might still be good in whoops. We will see
Are the 2023 model’s rubber bladder and not piston anymore?
They are piston stock. But WP offers a bladder kit which we installed
@@highlandcycles do you know the part #
@@mikemcgill6716 crap. I don’t. I’m at home now. Solid Performance stocks them.
Great info as usual only suggestion would be is to get a different mic or move it so we don't hear your every breath.
Yeah. I keep trying to tune the one I have. I’ll get it figured out
Oh! The oil foaming! Of course it felt terrible! Bladders are bad! Haha!
Haha it felt great.
Please tell us more about those white absorbent pads on your work surface. 👍🏻
Those are commonly referred to as Pig Mats, I buy them by the roll on Amazon
Yeah man they are awesome
they are truly amazing, the amount of oil they can absorb is pretty crazy.
Removing the spring in the compression adjuster is not going to work, so don't lose it.
Hahaha. I have it
Disassembly and assembly was simpler than I thought.
That part is easy
Why doesn't he know does he not have a shock dyno?
Of course he does. But shock dynos don't always translate into real world feel. Got to test
Got my 2019 rear shock revalved last year, the high speed comp spring came back in the bag of parts removed. Just a thought would submerging the comp adjuster in a cup of oil for 20 mins before fitting reduce the air trapped in there ?
Yeah. That is a good way to speed up the bleed.