I love this. Someone using used parts and putting together one badass motor on a budget instead of throwing the wallet at it! This is what brings me here 👍🏼
LOL, I found this block in the storm drain at the end of the street....I Welded two cranks together out of a Studebaker to make one good one, the bearings were worn so I double stacked them with some bacon, luckily my cousin had some rocker arms, so I dint have to buy a full set, but besides the exhaust leak, She's a runner!
Always have great content, really enjoy the engine share, im building a modest little twin 68 mm 383, Hope it can last on a stock, block 1000hp. Don't really have the funds for a $2800 block. Great content thanks!!
Hell everything I got in my motor is used,swap meet or friends stuff . My transmission and converter are 15 years old ,rebuilt 2 times myself motor is 6 years I do preventive maintenance.
Don't be afraid to use red loctite on the intake and exhaust bolts and would probably get new ones but I'm picky. I Sand the surfaces with a body shop long board. It makes guick work out of it and you will be surprised how flat you can get it.
why not just buy loctite blue, its the same price and made for fasteners that need to be removed occasionally, or stuff put into aluminum. honda, yamaha, and many others have used it for decades and it works fine. when using red loctite stuff going into aluminum isnt such a good idea.
The setup you have in the valley of the block would be awesome for Billy the kid's BBC great for ventilation and return for the oil!! Ps great vids John.
Probably won't find an engine shop, but you might be able to Find an engineering shop, Toolmaker and get them to turn up Sleeves to suit the aluminium block to take std chev cam bearings, or make solid cam bearings out of a suitable material,, and then you should be able to use your old cam. Another option would be modifiy the cam to take needle roller bearings. use your old cam core press on steel sleeve onto each camshaft journal, and cylindrical grind to suit 50mm bearing. And use the correct 50mm needle roller bearings.
hey John, have you tried the remflex aluminum header gaskets? i used them on my na street sbc and they have held up good for 2 years now. they can be reused too. mught be worth it for you to try a set.
Hi John, Can you PLEASE tell me what company made the old HEADERS that are in this video? I would very much appreciate it! I have a very tight engine compartment situation and I believe that the Headers that you removed from the engine would work for my situation. Thanks so much, Mike
Have you aligned honed that block ever? If you have, how many times? Im asking because I am going to run a timing belt on mine but its been aligned honed twice and I'm not sure if the timing belt needs to be shorter or not.
You tig welded it, then had it turned? Try getting it spin welded, that will last, there are some masters on YT that spin weld on a lathe cranks and other bearing surfaces. Makes it like new and bonds better all the way around, and lasts better.
Spin welding is not done with electrical voltage, but a powder sprayed on, and a high temp gas torch while spinning in a lathe, build up the steel by tiny layers where it bonds completely in a 360 degree circle to beyond the needed measurement,, then it is lathed back down and then in multi-step process, polished to a mirror finish. It is a really cool process, and there are a host of old school masters still around in your part of the country.
I can't believe more drag racers don't use short stroke engines. They worked great for many years in NASCAR engines. With about a 3.25" stroke/4"+ bore they made around 900 hp naturally aspirated at 9000rpm. They usually stayed together for 500 or more miles.
Doing no pre we normally are around 1400-1500. And on some of the back of the track stuff probably 900-1000. I’m hoping to get about 300 passes then pull them
According to the vid, you work at lightning breakneck speed (dontcha just wish we all could tear an engine down, and assemble it just that fast, and accurately), so you will back up in no time TJ, sry it had issues. Whoohoooo, Ross finally billed my Piston deposit so they are finally forging mine now, 11 weeks from end of May seems like a lifetime as I pulled the block mid January, when the lead time quote was just 3 weeks, by end of May when everything settled out at the Machine shop covid wise, and we had a clean block and parts and pcs ready to get required pre-forging measurements, and block had been line bored, race season on special and regular orders pushed out that lead time a crapload. But, the billing of the first 50 percent on July 28th was a welcome sight on the bank statement, says the CNC Machine was busy cranking em out! Once received and measured up, boring, honing, decking, balancing, and assembly should go a lot more quickly. Head and long block pcs are ready and waiting, as am I, to re-licence and get racing again. Car has been dieted and highly improved, nutted and bolted bumper to bumper inside and out.
what's the cubic inch of your motor what's the compression ratio and what's the Dome size on the piston and piston size? just curious that's all about building a motor like this
it's 364 ci, the pistons are off the shelf pistons for a 3.75 stroke crank 6" rod. I think the compression height is 1.125. Go check out cp bullet piston catalog and you can get the full specs. My compression is lower than they advertise because my stroke is 3.34 with a 6.200 rod. Think I'm at 10.5-11ish
@@TurboJohnRacing Right on man!! I haven't seen him in a while, busy lifestyle, you know how that goes I'm sure! Dude, if there's any way possible I'd like to hang with ya someday at the track. I have no car...no real friends around here...I'm going stir crazy here on the horse farm...nothing for me to do, so I live on RUclips and weed! LOL!! Used for pain in my hip....anyway, think about it, I got some money for gas and whatever else we might need. As a matter of fact, I'm wearing my favorite shirt today!!!! This shirt is really comfortable!! love the car on the back!! ✌😎
It just goes to show if you know what your doing you do not need to have a $100,000 engine to be fast and win but 20/20 on the bearings is not Ideal I stick to 10/10 most but man that is a very nice crank hate to see it get trashed they are not cheep
The oil is contaminated with methanol so it thins the oil out.. from what I understand it makes the oil not quite as effective but if the methanol and oil separates then you run the risk of the oil pickup only sucking straight methanol which is bad on bearings
Uhhh. Do you ever listen to your full breakdown video after you've commentated about taking your engine apart? "Well this is a leettttle (insert some word to describe damaged)" "Worn here in the middle but it'll be fiiiine" "A bit of scraping but (probably) from contamination" (because engines should be okay to have bits of metal in the oil), describe a thoroughly boned(used and damaged) bearing (well we use a lot of timing so maybe a detonation)...we'll take a look at that (and not change it because a set of NICE coated bearings would cost you all of $100). You can't run like that anymore and win. People aren't showing up to the tracks in shitboxes anymore. They're showing up sharp. Their engines don't have 8 leaking exhast ports. They don't have bearings they're shrugging their shoulders over. I guess it's okay if you want to reduce your car to a bracket racer, but that dog's not hunting as it should, and you know it, John. TWO HUNDRED PASSES ON ALUMINUM RODS?????????????????????????????????? Are you INSANE? Seriously. Aluminum rods...racing rods are meant for FIFTY. The serious boosted cars do 26.
OMG come on guys whats inside ? REALLY...If your building a motor and your going to use a pair of twins . Well I can tell you what isn't in that motor... That engine is NOT using cast pistons cast rods cast crankshaft .. It's not using a Hydraulic camshaft .. And if they are smart it's EFI and NOT BLO THRU why because EFI can be tuned per hole per runner . you can pull timing out as needed . So whats in it is Forged everything . a good piston like Wiseco Or Diamond .. a good crank like Molnar Or Lunati good rods strong enough to absorb the brutality of 40 LBS of boost and a valve train capable of getting it done like shaft rockers good strong push rods a good oil system if not dry sump than a wet Titan Billet pump ...a good set of head with enough CFM to get er done and valve strong enough to withstand the Tulip effect ...that seems to happen with High temps & Boost numbers especially guys who over extend the life cycle .. Boosted drag motors beat the living snot out of all engine components ..the forces being applied are just crazy even at relatively easy 1800HP regions ...That is still a hurtful amount of beat down on any small inch SBC .
Go fire up that Tig machine John, don't listen to the negative comments, a racer gotta do what a racer gotta do 💪
Damn right! If you can TIG weld you can fix anything. I love it.
Not negative here, gotta do whatever is necessary, just suggested a longer lasting solution.
I love this. Someone using used parts and putting together one badass motor on a budget instead of throwing the wallet at it! This is what brings me here 👍🏼
It's the little things... Hope she stays together for the rest of the season then you can concentrate on the aluminum block !
LOL, I found this block in the storm drain at the end of the street....I Welded two cranks together out of a Studebaker to make one good one, the bearings were worn so I double stacked them with some bacon, luckily my cousin had some rocker arms, so I dint have to buy a full set, but besides the exhaust leak, She's a runner!
Pretty much
That little motor have put out alot of people at the track
King bearings are awesome
Yep there in my motor..👍
The motor looks great for all of the passes on it! 🤩🤩
I am so impressed with TJ's race program. Talk about getting it done man. Can't wait to see you guys back at the track.
True meaning of baller on a budget 😎
Hard work and diligence will pay off and you got plenty of both good luck john
Damn that's so impressive how fast that car is. I'd love to see how fast TJ could go if he had a huge budget .
how fast was it?
I'm with ya there's not anything wrong with using second hand parts if it works use em
Absolutely, especially on a race car that you’re willing to send to the moon on any given Saturday
I bet fixing up those header leaks will be worth it in terms of dome pressure requirements and spool up time!
Cant wait to see that new block turning and burnin!!
Hurry up John 👊💪🏁
Thanks for the update 👍
Hell yea john
Always have great content, really enjoy the engine share, im building a modest little twin 68 mm 383, Hope it can last on a stock, block 1000hp. Don't really have the funds for a $2800 block. Great content thanks!!
I used top end lube in my methanol to stop the rusty exhaust valves. You can use an engine fogging spray at the end of the race day also.
We used to spray 2stroke mix down the intake
Hell everything I got in my motor is used,swap meet or friends stuff . My transmission and converter are 15 years old ,rebuilt 2 times myself motor is 6 years I do preventive maintenance.
That’s a great looking motor!! I’m building a 3” stroke 350 block and a couple of turbos.
Good luck man it's a lot of damn work
thats alot beating 💪
Good luck John. You will be back soon making passes. I hope you are able to use the aluminum block now.
Best of luck John!
Tj do the new block!!
Simple but effective
Somebody sign this guy
Don't be afraid to use red loctite on the intake and exhaust bolts and would probably get new ones but I'm picky. I Sand the surfaces with a body shop long board. It makes guick work out of it and you will be surprised how flat you can get it.
why not just buy loctite blue, its the same price and made for fasteners that need to be removed occasionally, or stuff put into aluminum. honda, yamaha, and many others have used it for decades and it works fine. when using red loctite stuff going into aluminum isnt such a good idea.
Those Bryant cranks are some serious money
4k or 5k for a billet common for that level of racing.
Come on Big John time tighten up that program, love the channel
Do you need check the rods?????
Not flip flops in the shop!!🤔 You and David Frieburger....😂
Lucky you could spool up at all with those exhaust gasket leaks.
Yeah, they were bad.
The setup you have in the valley of the block would be awesome for Billy the kid's BBC great for ventilation and return for the oil!! Ps great vids John.
Carburetor. your going to make Bills day lol
Use gray rtv on your intake gaskets, alky doesn't affect it.
You should put studs in for your header bolts the threads in aluminum heads don't like being taken in n out a lot like I'm sure you do racing
Don't need silicone on copper exhaust gaskets.
I double my gaskets up. I use 2 gaskets on each side
I hear that my Morel lifters wont work in my Iron eagle block...I sure wish you showed the lifters..
Probably won't find an engine shop, but you might be able to Find an engineering shop, Toolmaker and get them to turn up Sleeves to suit the aluminium block to take std chev cam bearings, or make solid cam bearings out of a suitable material,, and then you should be able to use your old cam. Another option would be modifiy the cam to take needle roller bearings. use your old cam core press on steel sleeve onto each camshaft journal, and cylindrical grind to suit 50mm bearing. And use the correct 50mm needle roller bearings.
😎
Why wouldn’t you use Remflex gaskets instead of silicone?
The headers don't cook the oil in the valve covers? Seems that would be a baked on mess inside.
hey John, have you tried the remflex aluminum header gaskets? i used them on my na street sbc and they have held up good for 2 years now. they can be reused too. mught be worth it for you to try a set.
I want to see it run
Damn thing looks like a diesel with that exhaust. 😆😆
This is impressive. :)
Hi John, Can you PLEASE tell me what company made the old HEADERS that are in this video? I would very much appreciate it! I have a very tight engine compartment situation and I believe that the Headers that you removed from the engine would work for my situation. Thanks so much, Mike
Search on eBay, SBC twin turbo headers
Have you aligned honed that block ever? If you have, how many times? Im asking because I am going to run a timing belt on mine but its been aligned honed twice and I'm not sure if the timing belt needs to be shorter or not.
Awesome bro 😎😎
You tig welded it, then had it turned? Try getting it spin welded, that will last, there are some masters on YT that spin weld on a lathe cranks and other bearing surfaces. Makes it like new and bonds better all the way around, and lasts better.
Spin welding is not done with electrical voltage, but a powder sprayed on, and a high temp gas torch while spinning in a lathe, build up the steel by tiny layers where it bonds completely in a 360 degree circle to beyond the needed measurement,, then it is lathed back down and then in multi-step process, polished to a mirror finish. It is a really cool process, and there are a host of old school masters still around in your part of the country.
How many passes on your rods are you comfortable making before you replace them? Or just when they decide to checkout
Yes
How cute.
Chevy powaaa!!!🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸💪💪💪💪
I can't believe more drag racers don't use short stroke engines. They worked great for many years in NASCAR engines. With about a 3.25" stroke/4"+ bore they made around 900 hp naturally aspirated at 9000rpm. They usually stayed together for 500 or more miles.
Lets go aluminum!
What block is that, fresh stock or after market 🤔
Dart block
What would a crank like that cost new? $2000-2500ish?
I don’t know, probably 3-4. It’s a nice piece. 600 bucks off eBay, lol
@@TurboJohnRacing cant beat $600 thats a steal!!!!😎😎😎
John on your aluminum rods at 200 passes at 8000+ rpm 1800hp you had to change the rods every 50-100 passes.?
Doing no pre we normally are around 1400-1500. And on some of the back of the track stuff probably 900-1000. I’m hoping to get about 300 passes then pull them
Hey tj I'm with blain5700 on this one, you need a diesel/methanol separator to get all that diesel out of your fuel tank lol 😆 😉 😄
About look at his vid on spray welding a shaft, he has a home machine shop back east, he is beyond a craftsman.
Abom79 on YT
I so hate auto correct.
Yes, I follow him. That is an awesome process
What intake manifold are you running?
RHS
That's y racing is just for fun and cause u injoy it the pay u win if u win don't cover price of parts to fix
According to the vid, you work at lightning breakneck speed (dontcha just wish we all could tear an engine down, and assemble it just that fast, and accurately), so you will back up in no time TJ, sry it had issues.
Whoohoooo, Ross finally billed my Piston deposit so they are finally forging mine now, 11 weeks from end of May seems like a lifetime as I pulled the block mid January, when the lead time quote was just 3 weeks, by end of May when everything settled out at the Machine shop covid wise, and we had a clean block and parts and pcs ready to get required pre-forging measurements, and block had been line bored, race season on special and regular orders pushed out that lead time a crapload. But, the billing of the first 50 percent on July 28th was a welcome sight on the bank statement, says the CNC Machine was busy cranking em out!
Once received and measured up, boring, honing, decking, balancing, and assembly should go a lot more quickly. Head and long block pcs are ready and waiting, as am I, to re-licence and get racing again.
Car has been dieted and highly improved, nutted and bolted bumper to bumper inside and out.
Good luck with it!
what's the cubic inch of your motor what's the compression ratio and what's the Dome size on the piston and piston size? just curious that's all about building a motor like this
It's 364 ci, not sure about the rest. The block is a 400 sbc destroked
He has videos back when he built it last year telling all this!
it's 364 ci, the pistons are off the shelf pistons for a 3.75 stroke crank 6" rod. I think the compression height is 1.125. Go check out cp bullet piston catalog and you can get the full specs. My compression is lower than they advertise because my stroke is 3.34 with a 6.200 rod. Think I'm at 10.5-11ish
Wondering what intake setup you have? Thanks man!
What is all the microphone noise
It was wind from the fan, I didn’t realize it was blowing that hard.
What cubic inch is your motor?
he said it in this video 360ci
@@jsigafoo Close 364 . Sure is durable considering.
@@jsigafoo I realized that after I watched the rest of the video.
What do you use to weld the crankshaft?
I normally tig it
Hey John, not sure if I've ask you before, but do you know a guy, Jeff Rhodes from Mayhem Motorsports? Garage in Knightdale. He's my nephew..
Yes, they are an awesome bunch of guys over there. I haven't seen him in a while, but need to swing by over there at some point to catch up.
@@TurboJohnRacing Right on man!! I haven't seen him in a while, busy lifestyle, you know how that goes I'm sure! Dude, if there's any way possible I'd like to hang with ya someday at the track. I have no car...no real friends around here...I'm going stir crazy here on the horse farm...nothing for me to do, so I live on RUclips and weed! LOL!! Used for pain in my hip....anyway, think about it, I got some money for gas and whatever else we might need. As a matter of fact, I'm wearing my favorite shirt today!!!! This shirt is really comfortable!! love the car on the back!! ✌😎
What brand sbc 400 iron block is that cheers
Dart. Iron Eagle
Always thought this was a SBF motor, not chev.
👍👍😎💪💯
Ultra copper silicone no gasket.
Ain’t no one going faster on junkier junk right John let’s be honest 😂 you’re basically a high tech low budget engineer 🤷🏻♂️
lol
Tj don’t put any Boogers on that crankshaft lol 😂
Did I understand you to say you just have outta the box profiler heads? No porting or anything.
Yes, they are the 210cc straight from profiler. Bad little head. But I also have a small motor.
WOW ..!!!! I THOUGH THAT WAS A FORD ENGINE ...!!!!!!!!!!!
That engine is being pushed far
G r fix
It just goes to show if you know what your doing you do not need to have a $100,000 engine to be fast and win but 20/20 on the bearings is not Ideal I stick to 10/10 most but man that is a very nice crank hate to see it get trashed they are not cheep
Get her fixed up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SAFE TRAVELS!!
Still don’t believe you on the stroke. I think the crank has been stroked.😁
😂
You dont have to be a good welder ,if ya got a good grinder. Hahahaha. Welder up. I didn't see porosity on that last weld. Good job
Hernandez Steven Lee Shirley Rodriguez Margaret
That oil is weird. You don't see normal motor oil just laying around in globs and slimed on the side of rods. I don't like it. It ain't natural.
Lmao
The oil is contaminated with methanol so it thins the oil out.. from what I understand it makes the oil not quite as effective but if the methanol and oil separates then you run the risk of the oil pickup only sucking straight methanol which is bad on bearings
Meth attracks moisture!!
@@jasonhastings5538 moisture and toothless strippers 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
No way you make that much with that turbo
go to wallace racing calculators. Car the engine was in last year, 4.67 158mph at 3000lbs. And the car has been faster than that year before last.
Uhhh. Do you ever listen to your full breakdown video after you've commentated about taking your engine apart? "Well this is a leettttle (insert some word to describe damaged)" "Worn here in the middle but it'll be fiiiine" "A bit of scraping but (probably) from contamination" (because engines should be okay to have bits of metal in the oil), describe a thoroughly boned(used and damaged) bearing (well we use a lot of timing so maybe a detonation)...we'll take a look at that (and not change it because a set of NICE coated bearings would cost you all of $100).
You can't run like that anymore and win. People aren't showing up to the tracks in shitboxes anymore. They're showing up sharp. Their engines don't have 8 leaking exhast ports. They don't have bearings they're shrugging their shoulders over. I guess it's okay if you want to reduce your car to a bracket racer, but that dog's not hunting as it should, and you know it, John.
TWO HUNDRED PASSES ON ALUMINUM RODS?????????????????????????????????? Are you INSANE? Seriously. Aluminum rods...racing rods are meant for FIFTY. The serious boosted cars do 26.
Who Dat ?
1800. I think not
😂 go look at older vids. 4.50’s 1/8 mile 160mph, 3100ish pounds
OMG come on guys whats inside ? REALLY...If your building a motor and your going to use a pair of twins . Well I can tell you what isn't in that motor... That engine is NOT using cast pistons cast rods cast crankshaft .. It's not using a Hydraulic camshaft .. And if they are smart it's EFI and NOT BLO THRU why because EFI can be tuned per hole per runner . you can pull timing out as needed . So whats in it is Forged everything . a good piston like Wiseco Or Diamond .. a good crank like Molnar Or Lunati good rods strong enough to absorb the brutality of 40 LBS of boost and a valve train capable of getting it done like shaft rockers good strong push rods a good oil system if not dry sump than a wet Titan Billet pump ...a good set of head with enough CFM to get er done and valve strong enough to withstand the Tulip effect ...that seems to happen with High temps & Boost numbers especially guys who over extend the life cycle .. Boosted drag motors beat the living snot out of all engine components ..the forces being applied are just crazy even at relatively easy 1800HP regions ...That is still a hurtful amount of beat down on any small inch SBC .
Aluminum rods. Shit
Badass. Sometimes less is more. You should show Billy's dad how to build a good engine. Bill whines too much. I had to unsubscribe. Lol
man the sound is horrible
Are those heads by Speier? What size are they?
These are out of the box 210’s