Renault Clio 1.2 16v D4F Throttle Body Removal
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- Опубликовано: 24 июл 2024
- The clio was running strange recently cutting out at junctions, not idling right and on the open road not driving very smoothly. Also sometimes it failed to start which was caused by oil coming out from the air filter housing and dripping onto the crankshaft position sensor.
I did this to remove the throttle body and clean it out, also the crankshaft breather pipe is located in here. In the video i didnt actually clean these parts as i did that last week but they were covered in oil and crap, the crankshaft breather had a lot of old sludge which i had to scrape out but its very clean now. The throttle body took a bit of time with some carb cleaner but as you see in the video thats how clean it needs to be.
It has made a huge difference to the car, there is no more lights on the dash, it has been running very smoothly and on the open road there is no cutting out or spluttering when planting the throttle.
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This video was easy to follow considering I know nothing about cars and now my 2001 1.2 Clio is working a treat! No more cutting out at junctions or dodgy idling. Cheers for the video man!
Great stuff, thanks for the comment.
Excellent video. Followed it through and cleaned my own throttle body (replacing a faulty air temperature sensor in the process). One small problem though, the video suggests the top bolts for the inlet manifold require an E6 socket. On my Clio, at least, they were E8 Torx bolts, rather than E6. Thankfully I'd bought both at Halfords just in case. Something to bear in mind before commencing the work!
This cured my Clio's 2002 1.2 Expression's issues. I can't thank this video enough for its assistance.
My Clio has slowly been getting worse over the past 6 months and would cut out more regularly when stopping. Every time I pulled up to lights, roundabouts or to park etc... the electrical warning light would appear, revs would drop and the only way to save this would be to rev the engine a couple of times. The issue would be fine until I slowed down again.
I took the car to 3 garages who all ran diagnostic test, changed the mapping and TDC sensors but nothing worked.
Finally I came across this video, carried out the cleaning of the throttle body put it all back together and it worked. The car runs like new and has not cut out since.
Thats fantastic news to hear, thanks for letting me know, its good to hear the car is running well now.
PIĘKNIE DZIĘKUJĘ !!! bez tego poradnika nie dałbym rady - TWINGO 02R-SELESPEED
Thanks for taking time to make this vid, you really do a good job of showing clearly where everything is! I think the best auto diy vid I've seen in that regard! I'll do this for my Clio II 1.2 16v ASAP as its showing the same symptoms!
Thanks for uploading this. I have just done this job on a mk1 Twingo 16v and it is ticking over much better. I would have struggled (even more!) to do this without your video..... many thanks.
Hi, thanks for the comment and its great to hear that this video helped on a MK1 twingo.
Thank you very much ,I just need this video at the side of the car so I can follow it .
Much appreciate you taking the time to re-do this procedure .
Congratulations my friend.
Ηelps people .
Comprehensive instructions for repair.
Thanks from GREECE
Thanks for the comment
Brilliant video, I was worried about doing it before i saw the video, so seeing it done was great. Just 1 minor point I found that unplugging a plug at the rear right hand side of the loom (green cable heading off into bulk head) helped with manipulating the throttle body around, seemed to give me more room without putting pressure on the loom. Thanks for posting.
thanks for the positive comment, its good to know its helping.
I intend to do more work on the clio, and i also hope to purchase a MOT failure clio really cheap to take apart and understand how it's built more.
Great video, thanks. My daughter has the Automatic version, cleaning the throttle body cured the following symptoms: Wouldn't change auto gears properly, Engine cut out at junctions, Stuck in second gear regardless of speed, sudden and dramatic loss of power, etc. Thank you again.
Hi ,
Great video, gave me the confidence to tackle the Renault Twingo we have just bought. A lot less room than the Clio but still possible with your help, took the Cam cover off to cure the oil leak and check the valve clearances while I was there, also done the cam belt and fitted a new clutch. I am nearly 60 but still learnt from your video, many thanks, Mark
Thanks for the comment, and its great to hear it helped. Congratulations on the clutch change, it was one of them jobs that my clio would have benefited from but i never got round to doing.
Thank you for the video, I plan to do the same to my twingo 1.2 16v.
Great video, thanks for posting. Was a big help for me when getting to the throttle position sensor on my Kangoo 1.2 16v, which has basically the same engine.
Couple of points for the Kangoo:
1. Take off the bonnet! It opens the other way and saves a heck of a time getting those inlet maniford bolts off.
2. The TPS sold by most outlets (a much smaller item) is not always the right one. My Kangoo has the same as in this video for the Clio.
Thanks again.
Hello there! I have the same kangoo from 2003 petrol engine. I have the same problem at the moment and the light won't stop coming on again. The mechanic tried with cleaning the throttle body, but after some time the light comes on again and it's the same problem over and over. I want to ask you, how can i solve this problem? Should I change the throttle body? Or maybe the sensor on the throttle body? Should i check the pedal down under? Thanks in advance!
@@VelesKitchen Hello ! Well it's been five years since I did this and I don't have the car anymore to check, but as I remember the throttle body was a pretty simple device. If a clean out hasn't worked it could be sensor failure. Have you or your mechanic fitted an OBD II sensor reader to check the fault codes? It might actually tell you if something has failed. Cleaning the throttle pedal is easy, but it's just a couple of variable resistors that signal the ECU and it is pretty robust. Worth checking but unlikely the cause. If all else fails a new throttle body might be worth a try but after that it could be the ECU itself and I am afraid that's real money. Best of luck !
Did mine today, followed your video step by step, apart from the plastic retaining clips that hold the wires, they weren't even there lol
Thanks! The problem was high revs idle. I was able to tighten up 5 of 8 bolts on intake collector and engine idling normally now.
fixed my idling problem striaght away cheers for putting this up mate!
Great to hear you got it sorted, thanks for the comment
good vid there my man simple and clear and straight to the point well done
Today i had a little free time and i clean my throttle body too !! thank you very much !! You are a big teacher for me ! Now i am waiting a video how to change the timing belt :)
What a great video. Really easy to follow. Thank you.
Thanks
I changed the starter on the clio a long time ago ill do a video though soon as its not too difficult.
But the crankshaft position sensor its just below the air filter on the bell housing, two bolts hold it in place and some wd40 or carb cleaner is all i used to clean it up.
Thanks for this, same symptoms as my clio, the little bastard. Glad to see its easy enough job, good work!
Thanks man, this has helped me a lot, gonna take them out in a little while :D Thanks
Very nice video! I have the same car and now i know have i can clean my throttle bod , before 2 days i service my clio myself because you teach me how ...thank you! keep working on it!
thank you very much for posting this video it was a big help a big problem solved for £5
I've did this a few days ago. ~20 years old. Haven't changed any gaskets, they seemed OK. I've used a paper clip to clean the hole shown at 09:00. If the paper clip has plastic, you have to remove it. The hole is really thin. Instead of carb cleaner I've used acetone. I can confirm E8 torx, for removing the inner parts I think it's a torx 30. On my car I have AC. There weren't any particular problems due to it. I've used various flexible/bendable/stiff adapters of various lengths to get to all of the screws. Prepare to be really creative. I've also had a problem with the capacitor of the ignition coils (shown here at 4:40). It was broken. I've replaced it with a normal 2.2 uF 100 V+ (I've used a 400 V one) capacitor soldered to the metal part and fixed with epoxy putty. Also the connectors of the ECU had signs of corrosion (blue-green crap). I've used KONTAKT 60 spray. Replaced also MAP filter which I've broken by trying to remove it to clean it. It was really hard to remove the wires to the spark plugs. I've used pliers under the widened part and raised the pliers on one side by pushing on the otherside down into the inlet manifold, basically using leverage to raise them. The hardest part was putting back the first fuel pipe (1:40). I've used some WD-40 to help me and a torx key to help me push on one button. I needed around 1 h to dissasemble, but I wasn't really rushing.
OK, after about two weeks it became a bit jittery ocassionaly and fuel consumption has been slowly rising. Torque on Android didn't show any errors, but CarScanner for Android (which probes extra errors) did. Also LTFT (fuel trim) has been +50% (which means, that there should be +50% more fuel, it stops at ~50% as above that the ECU doesn't allow) while idling and wasn't great while driving either. After an another 2 weeks even the error light on the dashboard lit up once. I've added first a an injector cleaner solution in the fuel, which helped a bit subjectively (and also measuring fuel trim), but not that much. I noticed that one HT lead had a detached rubber, possibly due to the previous work. I've made a special tool by buying an aluminium pipe 10x1 mm, I've cut it in 250 mm length and drilled with a 9 mm bit 25 mm deep. Then I've sanded the edges, so that they are sharp. I've attached the tool on the spark plug and gently tapped twice with the hammer and the rubber from the HT lead went from the spark plug on my tool. That way I was able to replace the HT leads (they come with a new ignition coil), that helped a bit, but still not totally. I've decided to reopen everything also because I had an oil leak (from before). I suspected the oil leak comes from the valve cover, which it did (that's under the cover of what it's shown in the video). I've changed the gaskets there too. They were really bad, hard and they even broke like glass. On some parts you have to add silicone: all 5 five screws on the back and on the side "humps". Got this from Haynes' manual. I've also noticed that the ECU has a gasket, which may be relevant to leaking air, which I didn't buy. I've applied thermal silicone instead. The gasket of the cover that it's shown in the video was quite bad. Haven't noticed before, because it seemed like solid plastic. I've changed this gasket (rectangular, with a notch, so that you don't turn it upside down, code 701 479). There's also a gasket on where the plastic tube, that was needed to be cleaned in the video. I think it's called "strainer something something gasket". In the local shop they've said that you can't buy it. That you can only get it if you buy the whole intake manifold. I've applied thermal silicone to it. I've also recheked the 4 triangular gaskets of the intake manifold and well they only seemed OK. Compared to new ones, they were quite hard. Changed those too. I've also removed the injectors and cleaned them in an ultrasonic bath of pure isopropanol for 30 min. I've ordered two types of gaskets for the injectors MCP-003 and MCP-004 because of a drawing. It should have been both MCP-003. I've also found in Haynes' manual specified torques for each tightenings and for the intake manifold there's a specific sequence and procedure, which I've followed. I've also applied Loctite on the screws as per the manual. When I've started the engine it wasn't jittery, but still I had the same LTFT, so I was disappointed and went to sleep. Next day I've tried putting all the spark plugs out. They were all white, indicating a very lean (too much air) mixture. I've changed the spark plugs, it was maybe better (at least subjectively), but not that much change on LTFT also still errors in the ECU. After that I decided to go around a bit and it seemed like it was getting progressively better. Then I stopped for an hour and went again. This time it was all fine. The fuel consumption went down by 1 L/100 km and there was no jitter also there were zero errors in the ECU.
Then I done everything you done and now runs perfect.
Great video ! So I was wondering if you need and new seals or gaskets when refitting everything thing, also what did you use so clean everything off the oil ? Thanks !!
Thats fantastic to hear glad to hear the video was helpful.
I would check the connections again, im not near my garage at the moment if i was i could look at the haynes manual to see if any of them plugs has anything to do with the fuel gague, but i remember from experience of taking out a fuel pump in the tank that the gague/pump is one unit and the connectors are under the back seat.
What you said about the steep incline could be a reason, if the car is on the level the gague might register some fuel, did it show 2 bars sitting on the incline?
Thanks for this! I got Twingo with the D4F engine in it and I keep finding oil in the air housing so I probably need to do exactly what you just had to, although mine doesn't actually seem to have any of the problems you seemed to experience with it.
Its around the bellhousing (where the engine meets the gearbox) below the air filter housing, and is held in place with 2 bolts
Excellent video! I can't thank you enough.
Thanks for the video I have 6 clios in the household 2 of them have this problem. I'll work on them one at a tym...great video son.
Class! Talk about brand loyalty. Hope this sorts the problem on them.
Grate video sorted out my problem aswell. Thanks
Just got mine thanks. You the man
hi, with carburetor cleaner you clean the inlet manifold too? or only the other parts?
car is 1.2 16v 2001 petrol-throttle body video great job as i was able to do my self but wanted top replace petrol filter as well
Thanks! It was very hard, now it's easy =)
Cant find were the speed sensor is. Does this use abs or has speed sensor in hearbox? If you know at all
no worries i see it as helpful advice, which will also help other viewers, i can understand if it is just for a job like this there would be no point purchasing a full set of inverted torx sockets.
tried to remove my map sensor by gently putting it up and out but the end bit has snapped inside the rocker cover. do you just pull these sensor up to remove ?
Very good guide there, especially as it mentions the Tamper proof box
A tricky wee box to remove if still intact, thankfully this one had been tampered with before i attempted this repair. Definitely had a few comments over the years mentioning the difficulties of removing the box.
Thank you buddy for the time it worked
I didnt get to the crankshaft position sensor in this video i had intended to do a separate video showing its removal and cleaning, sorry about that.
But the crankshaft position sensor is below the air filter housing a black box on the bellhousing (where the gearbox and engine meet) it is held in with 2 10mm bolts and one undone it can be removed and cleaned up if it is covered in oil.
What sort of trouble is the car having when trying to start?
Hi, i have issue removing loom connection cover in your video 2:59 sec. is there some clip or something? it rattles, but cant get it off.. :(
The timing belt, and auxilary belt are on the side of the headlight they could be making the noise, does it change with revs?
It could be a number of things causing the problem, the first time i attached everything together the car was a bit lumpy when first stared but after a bit of revving it picked up.
What condition is the wires around the engine is the HT leads and plug going into the coil good, sometimes problems with them can make the car run rough.
Hi, is this the sensor at 8:00 on the bottom of the throttle body?
I dont know if they can be swapped, does the sellers say anything about them needing coded etc, i would ask that. And check on renault forums just to be sure.
Ive never worked on one of these cars with A/C but is it the air conditioning pump or pipes in the way?
In either case you could remove the A/C pump from its bracket and push it aside, as long as the pipes are not opened or split then no refrigerant will escape
I have a similar car mine is a billabong I have a problem with the air bag and serv/service light they stay on... And both rear reverse light and tail for the driver side don't work only the brakes works on both sides... Any suggestions with be appreciate cheers
Excellent work mate! I have a Proton Savvy and it uses a Renault 1.2 D4F
engine. Do you have anything on fault code P0303? I know its a misfire
but not really sure what to do here? I changed the spark plug but code
is still showing?
Any suggestions friend?
Glad it helped.
I sometimes forget what size the bolts are, i write them down while i do the job but sometimes mistakes can get made when im putting the videos together. Thanks for the information however.
Help i am having same problem I have uploaded a video on my channel I have changed plugs coil pack filters sounds so much like this one
Thank you sir, you always know what is my problem.
Cheers Peugeot, will invest in one and checked to see if its worth repairing. Thanks again.
The bolts are welded onto the seat frames and go through the floor, to get to the nuts you need to get under the car and remove plastic covers, once the nuts are undone the seat will lift out make sure to disconnect any wires before fully removing it.
Its was very hulpfull i had the same problem now my engine works better👍👍
Hi! I have a question. Does this D4F engine has MAF sensor. Thx.
The fuel gague works gets the signal from the float inside the tank, this car had the analogue gague but its still controlled in the same way as the digital.
It sounds like there is still a loose wire somewhere, were any broken when removing connectors? and is the bolt shown at 4:34 back on correctly?
How much fuel is in the tank because this clio if say £10 is put in when the fuel light is on its not enough to get it off.
Great video my man cheers
the 'oil ok' message dissapear from my panel when I start my car. do you know what happened? thanks!
Thanks for the quick response, what needs to come off to get to the cylinder head? Thanks
No problem thanks for the comment
Hi there. The wires that goes with the plug you pulled out on the ignition coil.. I have one broken off, don't know where it must go..
It sounds like the car is in limp mode, its hard to say exactly what is causing it without reading the fault codes. However it could be the coil for the spark plugs,
But i would get it connected to an fault code reader to see what it says before buying new parts.
What condition is the air filter in? Is there much oil on it at the moment?
Nice video, much apreciated. thanks
Thats great to hear you got it fixed, thanks for taking the time to describe the symptoms of bad injectors and how you fixed them,
As for renualt forums, sometimes they can take a day to respond, but they normally respond with good dependable advice, whats your username and title of the thread and ill say hello over there.
There most likely will be a bit of old oil in that area but a few old rags is all it takes to dry it up, also while you have the inlet manifold off clean out the PCV valve to prevent the oil from doing that again.
Great video. Thanks a lot mate!
did much the same as I was changing top wiring loom due to the clio problems that most know about ,that is except the two garages that worked on the car ,new map sensor , lander sensor,and cat later with the same fault still there.
I would just like to add the following at the bottom of the crankcase breather is a small hole that needs to be cleaned out with a paper clip
also when replacing bottom inlet 10m bolts use a thin extension bar ,use your finger to act as a guide,
Thanks for looking , fingers crossed it solves the problem, on half a tank only did 50 miles.
The inlet manifold on top wasn't secured very well. One of the nuts in bedded in the rocker cover was slack letting air in. And on the inlet to the engine one of the bolts was snapped in the head, so had to drill it out and tapped it with a 7 mm bolt seems to have sealed.
Haven't had the engine management light on again, so will refill and see what mileage I get ....
A loose intake manifold will definatley cause the issues you are mentioning, especially if someone has broke a bolt reinstalling it some time in the past there is a chance it wasnt done right, a new intake manifold gasket might be a good thing to get if you ever go to take it off again.
can someone tell me what parts has the fuel system on D4F 740 (kangoo 1.2 16 V same engine as clio) i mean it has 2 hoses running from the tank one goes into engine (i presume for hot air going into tank) and the other goes into large-ish filter like 'thing' located beside front right wheel inside the hood, some electric wires go into that thing and the hose goes from that thing to the carburetor... i want to know what is that thing and is there any filter in it, cause that car dont have classic fuel filter
Perfect ! I am waiting for news !
It sounds like a wire somewhere has been loosened; the large plugs up near the bulhead i found quite tricky to plug in. everything needs to be plugged back tight, and a bit of wd40 or contact cleaner on the plugs keeps the connections clean.
Hello mate , you know the 10mm bolts ? Do you know the length of them by any chance ?
problem is throttle body motor is burned then we put new throttle body on it i was work good for hour then after make same problem again.
looks like over voltage goes to throttle body motor and burns it..
what course to burn this motor.
do you are think?
thanks
Just wanted to ask your advice. Im doing tappets on a 2005 1.2 16v clio tappet settings give 2 settings for inlet and 2 settings for exasust. Im not sure whitch one to do. Do i pick a feeler guage in middle of both settings for inlet ?
Are the two settings referring to hot and cold measurements, or is it a tolerance?
I never went near the tappet adjustment of my clio so cant really speak from experience.
What's the tool used to remove rocker cover ?
I have a Renault clio 1.2 16v and i had the same issues i replaced the spark plugs and coil pack and its fine.... But the hisss'ing / air leaking sound your was making when reving is still there?? Could this be due to the throttle body peugeotCitroen2CV
I dont really know, perhaps the engine torque reaction link can be removed and let the engine tilt forward a bit, or peraps the throttle body is accessed in a different way. Renault forums or a haynes manual might be the best place to find out.
Your a fkin legend pal cheers. My clio starting doing this 3-4 weeks ago changed plugs coil pack air filter. Thanks
great i really appreciate ur video .every thing is in detail ... can u plz do some more video on crank sensor cleaning ???? and startor moter plz ???
At 4.35 remove this part?
Did you find out or does anyone else know what this screwed on part is?
I have followed this step by step but I have snapped the screw on this part ,half of it is still in the hole so don't want to start the engine until I know what it is.
Thanks brilliant video.
can you buy the black sensor part separately from the throttle body. My garage want to replace the whole lot as they say it all comes together but i have found a couple sites that are selling just the sensor,
Hi.
I've got a question for you, cause in my Twingo 1.2 D4F when I push the gas pedal I hear "tsst" - sound of underpressure... this same sound is on your movie (when you push gas pedal).
I cleaned my throttle - a lot of oil, and other dirty liquid, and clean oil in air cover.. but this sound is still there...
I thought that dirty crankshaft breather pipe is source of this sound but... not.
Is the sound still occurs in your engine?
hi the black metal box which covers the block connector at the rear of the engine how is it removed
thanks leigh
at the mo, ive got the electric warning light the same one in the middle at the start, however all mine does when the light comes on has a lack of power. if i put it in neutral and full throttle it will only go up to 4000 RPM, spark plugs were changed, but any guesses what it could be?
theres no bad idling, however when starting up it does go up and down a bit
You have used the plastic bag trick to keep bolts on the socket : )
I have a co worker with the same engine/car wich cut at intersections or when the cooling fan kick in.
it has 180 000 kms.
i will tell him about that.
Thank you for video.
Vey interesting.
I guess the idle air control valve is built in the throttle body ?
Is an Eobd scan tool ok for those cars ?
I would like to buy one with this engine :
Have you got advices or warning to give to me ?
michaelovitch A piece of paper or tissue is normally what i use for holding the bolt in place, but a plastic bag does the same trick.
The cutting out at junctions issue should solve after a throttle body clean, but after the cooling fan kicks in is a bit strange i wonder if the alternator is working correctly
peugeotCitroen2CV
I think the idle air control can't correctly adjust the idle when the load caused by the cooling fan appears.
It must be all dirty i think,and it causes the engine to stall.
Why would be the alternator causing problem according to you ?
i don't get it.
The amps sucked by the fan should be just a peak load on the engine no ?
michaelovitch Ahy the PCV valve gets clogged up in there and starts coating the throttle body and the sensors in the inlet manifold with sludge causing the incorrect readings and bad running, thats why its a good idea to give it a clean aswell when the inlet manifold is off.
Im just thinking that the extra load of the cooling fan might be asking a lot from the alternator which if it isnt working too well might be labouring more than normal but then again if you turn on the cabin fan, full beam headlights wipers, rear window heater and electric windows they should draw extra current and reproduce the same problem.
Hello again. Great news. All sorted and car is running sweet as So thank you so much for this fantastic Video. AMAZING DIFFERENCE.
P.S. THERE IS A RUBBER RING WHERE THE THROTTLE BODY GOES ON THE HOUSING. I NEVER NOTICED IT AND IT DROPPED IN THE TOP OF THE ENGINE!!! I FOUND IT AFTER TAKING APART THE THROTTLE BODY THE SECOND TIME ROUND. LOL. NO HARM NO FOUL CAR IS RUNNER SUPERB NOW :)
Great to hear it sorted your car.
I must have forgot to mention the rubber ring, its fairly important that it makes a good seal was your car running rough with it out?
Lol not only was it running rough the ring had dropped into the head and the engine was making some god awful noises, I thought there was something broken but luckily once the ring was back on it is running better than ever. Ignition light flashed a few times but after stopping and starting the car a few times it went off
Graham Wakerley It didn't drop down round the valves etc did it, iirc with the inlet manifold off the space below it is just space, you then need to remove the valve cover to get at the valves.
I would expect it to sound and act very strange, sometimes the rubber ring can get old and cracked and that can also cause running issues.
wow, looks like another extensive dismantle jobs just to get to the throttle body. I have cleaned throttle bodies on other cars without having to remove the inlet manifolds. Wonder why Renault have tucked the body away like this, the same as having to take the whole top dash out just to change the bulbs in the centre clock / temp in the dash. Nothing seems a quick 5 minute dismantle job with this motor. - well done for video though very informative and clear
no problem good luck with the repair, and if you get the chance reply to say if it improves the cars running.
how do you get the seats out in these, are there bolts under the car ? cant seem to get them out from inside and havent looked underneath yet
Hi mate,
Great video! I'm planning on doing his today as I have the same idling problem.
Did you depressurise the fuel tank before hand? I read in the Haynes manual that it must be depresurised?
Many Thanks and Best Regards,
~David
I had the electrical light coming on, intermitently but it was coming on more frequently when i went to work on the car. And yes revving the car usually got rid of the light. My mum drove the car and she drives it easy thus the problem showed up, then when i went to drive it i drove it flat out and couldnt see what was wrong initially. So i think cleaning out the throttle body is worth a try on your car.
Ive never been near a 1.4 so i dont really know, although if you got the haynes manual seems to cover it.
USEFULL!!! I'm having a lack of power (not that it had much anyway) so maybe there is some slime clogging up a pipe or something.
My cars a/c is blocking the inlet manifold and I can't get to the bolts. Any tips?
Could I spray carb cleaner into the breather pipe inlet while the D4F 712 is running and flush out the crap that way? or would that ruin the motor..
even if i changed the oil straight after ?
thanks for your excellent videos
Hi
I've never run a car on carb cleaner, part of its advantage is that it does a good job of cleaning and evaporates off quickly. It could possibly dry off the film of oil along the cylinder walls while it is used. Although that is just speculative, I'm not 100% sure of what its effects would be while running, it's worth reading the instructions to see if it can be used that way. If it is an alternative to taking the manifold off and cleaning it as per this video I don't think it will give the same cleaning effect, this may take an hour to do but the car was 10 years old and it was the first time it needed to be done. If it's to remove carbon inside the engine I've seen a few videos about using a product called seafoam which may be worth looking into, they might reduce the carbon inside the engine, although I'm not sure how well they will clean the throttle body.
Hi, thanks for replying!So the problem i have is oil being drawn into the air filter housing and coating the lower section of the filter. a local mechanic who breaks renaults (and fixes them) told me it was due to the breather pipe on the inlet manifold being blocked. does that seem like a probable diagnosis to you? I see you removed the entire plastic manifold and cleaned the breather pipe, but didnt see how, i was just hoping there was a quick and easy fix, by spraying some form of solvent into the inlet at the back of the housing (would compressed air also do the trick you think?or just cause damage) - but inevitably i guess investing the time and effort into full removal will pay off. thanks again!
Hi Yes the crankcase breather pipe inside the inlet manifold clogs up on these, I haven't done a great job of showing that in this video but it worth clearing out while in there, even use a bit of compressed air to blow any gunge out of the way, then use the carb cleaner for any residue left over.
Unfortunately, you do need to take the inlet manifold off, it's not too big a job to do, get a few plastic trays laid out to hold screws in place and set an hour or two aside, it shouldn't have to be done for another few years at least.
So I guess my weekend will be filled with lots of dismantling, degreasing... and hopefully a successful reassemble :)
Its people like you who make youtube a great resource, thanks for all your help!
Jake, did you get it fixed? I'm going to do mine once the weather warms up.
hi there - is the icv valve inside with the throttle body or is it somewhere else? - great video, i really enjoyed it and it helped me
Ive got the same problem at the moment on the clio the rocker cover gasket is leaking
hello, I have a 1.2 16vand when I accelerate I feel that the power has some gaps... it is not straight. Do you think that I can solve the problem with cleaning or replacing the throttle ?
Thanks