Several tips when I did this job: 1) I used a thin spacer washer against the inner axle shoulder which is greased to prevent abrasion of the inner bearing end because my bearings failed on a side where this was lacking. 2) Once you screwdriver- hammer out either bearing of the pair against its inside edge, the other is easily tapped out using a deep socket just undersized to the wheel's housing diameter 3) During install I used a 6" 2x4 short as a driver under the hammer. This let me assure the hammer was hitting vertical, & I could finger-check underneath the wood that the bearing was not riding anywhere on the hole rim. Also the tone of the hammer strike distinctly changes once the bearing shoulder is tight against the rim. 4) If the bearing diameter is large relative to the hole (manuf. tolerances) you can file a slight bevel around the bearing's edge to assure entry 5) Before re-installing the castellated cotter pin washer I check it's profile and, if it's been bent into a warp I flatten it back against a hard surface by using the open end of a socket its diameter as a driver. That prevents play in this retainer from contributing to wobble.
My bushings are white in color from the factory and stuck on there. Looked through the hole and I don't see a break anywhere to put a screwdriver and tap them out. Looks like the front and the rear bushings are flush inside!
Several tips when I did this job: 1) I used a thin spacer washer against the inner axle shoulder which is greased to prevent abrasion of the inner bearing end because my bearings failed on a side where this was lacking. 2) Once you screwdriver- hammer out either bearing of the pair against its inside edge, the other is easily tapped out using a deep socket just undersized to the wheel's housing diameter 3) During install I used a 6" 2x4 short as a driver under the hammer. This let me assure the hammer was hitting vertical, & I could finger-check underneath the wood that the bearing was not riding anywhere on the hole rim. Also the tone of the hammer strike distinctly changes once the bearing shoulder is tight against the rim. 4) If the bearing diameter is large relative to the hole (manuf. tolerances) you can file a slight bevel around the bearing's edge to assure entry 5) Before re-installing the castellated cotter pin washer I check it's profile and, if it's been bent into a warp I flatten it back against a hard surface by using the open end of a socket its diameter as a driver. That prevents play in this retainer from contributing to wobble.
Sounds like you got it figured out!
Did you ever get roller bearings to replace those bushings?
My bushings are white in color from the factory and stuck on there. Looked through the hole and I don't see a break anywhere to put a screwdriver and tap them out. Looks like the front and the rear bushings are flush inside!
Are they plastic?
@@AccuracySpeaks Yes.
@@TechCrazy Were you able to press em out, are they worn??